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Is there a certain speed we need to go when we crimp?

There are lots of variables – maturity of the crop, roughness of the terrain, etc.  Be sure the crimper doesn’t bounce. If it’s bouncing it won’t terminate all of the crop and will be a very tough ride.
We usually crimp about 2-3 miles per hour.

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I don’t have a crimper or a no till drill. Would letting the cows into the fall food plot for a few days terminate the fall plot well enough?

Unless the cattle are fenced in the plot – like mob grazing, I doubt they will terminate all the standing crops.  You may need to spray or use another system to terminate the crops not killed by the cattle.
It is very important to terminate the standing crop before it goes to seed. Such “volunteer seeds always compete with the next crop and germinate out of season for that species.

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What happened to Chainsaw?

Question
Hi Grant! Thank you for all the amazing information about habitat mangement. I was wondering, whatever happened to Chainsaw?

Thanks,
Jordan Steele
Springfield, MO

Jordan,

We didn’t get any pictures of Chainsaw since once season started.  We haven’t found his sheds yet.  No neighbors have reported tagging or seeing Chainsaw.  I hope he shows up next season!

Thanks for watching and enjoy creation!

grant

March 2, 2016

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Does this deer have Chronic Wasting Disease?

Question


Aug 30 at 10:10 PM

Hi Grant,

Hello Grant,
I was hoping to pick you brain. The two attached pictures are the same deer approximately 1 week apart. That was a very big doe. She was even healthier looking three weeks ago. She has been absolutely huge. Now she looks like she’s dying. There is another doe that looks like a walking skeleton. Neither doe has had any fawns. The big doe has not had a fawn in three years. She normally looks like a buck with out the proper equipment. Could this be chronic wasting? Also, three of our largest bucks have disappeared after weekly pictures over the last 8 weeks. I’m getting a bit concerned. Thanks for your input.

Regards,

Pete

Pete,

Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) usually takes years before the deer show any signs.  Most of the deer that have tested positive for CWD look normal. 

The symptoms you described sound more like Hemorrhagic Disease (H.D.).  H.D. is a virus that transmitted deer to deer by very small biting flies. Deer that contact the H.D. virus go from looking healthy to dead in a matter of days.  H.D. has been studied for more than 50 years. There is currently no vaccine and epidemics of H.D. have occurred throughout the whitetail’s range.  Deer herd’s always bounce back from H.D.

CWD is 100% fatal and a very serious threat to deer.  You can learn more about CWD at http://www.CWD-info.org.

It the deer are dying from CWD – that’s a major game changer for you and all of your neighbors.  I suggest you contact you local state wildlife biologist if you find any fresh deer carcasses.

Hoping for the best,

grant

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What is the appropriate title for Grant’s profession?

Question
Hello dr. Grant
First I just wanted to say that I love your show, and it is very educational. I want to know what you would exactly call your profession besides wildlife biologist. By that I mean like helping people better their land for deer hunting. My name is Chase and hunting is my passion, I play football at MTSU and its my senior year. That being said I have some professional attention from a few teams. What I want to know is how I could start a career in the kind of things that you are doing. My degree is not in biology, quite honestly I have a useless degree of liberal arts. Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated thank you and God bless you, your family, and your business.
Chase Pennycuff

Chase,

Congratulations on almost completing your degree and having a successful football career!  That’s very exciting!

Some folks call me a consulting wildlife biologist.  It’s really no different than a wildlife biologist.  I research and share my results.  Some wildlife biologists work for government agencies. I work primarily for private landowners, but have worked for corporations and government agencies.  

Thank you for asking God to bless my family!  That’s a huge blessing to me!  

Enjoy creation and listen to where God wishes to use you!  

grant

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What college should I attend to become a wildlife biologist?

Question
Dr. Grant Woods,

I wanted to thank you for your advice on degrees in Wildlife Biology. I have contacted UGa and Mississippi State for information from Dr. Karl Miller and Dr. Steve Demaris. My dad had came across Dr. Moore at abac.edu.

I had a question because Dr. Moore let me know that a two two or two years at ABAC and two years at UGa would be a good option for me since my family is in Thomasville. The degrees are different one is BAS applied science and the other one is a BS, but only UGa has the Wildlife Biologist degree.

My dad says I can save money going to the local school first get the core classes out of the way and then go to UGa and be better prepared from the core applied classes at abac, Dr. Moore indicated it is highly competitive to get into UGa. Can you give any advice?

Second question I am still in high school but I would like to know how to go about coming to field days next year as an intern? I am prepared to work time before and after the event.

Thank you for your time.

Parker Maroney

Parker,

I’ve known several wildlife biologists that went to school for two years at ABAC and finished their wildlife degree at the University of Georgia!  I agree with your father – that’s a fine program!  

Wherever you go take each class seriously and be intentional about your career objectives.  For example, take the written and speaking communication skills classes very seriously. These skills are essential to all professions!  School choice is important, but not as important as each student’s desire to learn and participate in activities that will benefit their career.  

We rarely accept candidates for our intern program unless they are a junior or more advanced in college.  Our internship program is designed to last a college semester.  Most schools give credit for such field experience.  

I hope you will consider doing an internship with us at you progress through a wildlife degree program!

Enjoy creation,

grant

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Where can I hunt near Charleston, South Carolina?

Question
Hey Mr. Grant,
i emailed recently wanting to know if you knew any places to hunt in SC,you said you used to hunt the national forest around Clemson,since i live in Charleston that’s along way for a hunt,any other ideas.Also what kind of broad heads do you have? i’m shooting a diamond infinite edge at 45 lbs as of know i have muzzy,deer season just started here in SC can”t wait to get out!
Sincerely Clayton

Clayton,

There’s 10’s  of 1,000’s of acres of public and just outside Charleston called the Francis Marion National Forest.  Some of my friends used to hunt both deer and turkey there!  That’s one place to start while you are meeting landowners, etc., and looking for other places to hunt!  

Remember to be willing to trade some work for hunting rights!  Many landowners need help planting food plots, etc.!

Enjoy creation!

grant

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How can I get over target panic?

Question
Grant,
I’ve been shooting a bow for a couple years now, and developed what people tell me as target panic; where I can’t hold my pin on target. Do you know how I can treat this? I’m told every bow hunter deals with this at one time or another.

Thanks

Robert,

I’ve experienced a few bouts of target panic.  A good friend of mine taught me an easy (but not quick) cure for target panic.  I’m very confident his cure will work for you if the steps are followed.

1.  Stop shooting at dots, X’s, etc. Stop now!  

2.  Get a good target and backstop and shoot blind bale. Blind bale is shooting with your eyes closed – literally. You are only focused on form. You are not worried about where the arrow hits as long as it’s safe.  To learn more about the blind bale technique watch the episode of GrowingDeer at this link:  https://www.growingdeer.tv/?ep=how-to-get-ready-for-deer-hunting-now

3. Use the blind bale technique daily if you can.  You can use this technique almost anywhere if you have a quality target and use the appropriate safety precautions.

4.  ONLY shoot using the blind bale technique for a minimum of 2 weeks! Don’t shoot using normal practice techniques to see if the target panic is cured.

 5. After a very minimum of two weeks start each practice session by shooting at least 10 shots blind bale. Don’t get lazy and simply start shooting targets.  

6. When you shoot at a target, DON’T SHOOT AT A DOT, X, ETC.!!!! Shoot at a 9″ pie plate, 3D target that doesn’t have dots or circles, etc. Start at 5 yards.

Remember – being accurate at archery is all about good form. Having great from at 5 yards equates to good shots at much  longer distances!

The only tough part about curing target panic is being discipline enough to stick to the above program and don’t cheat or take shortcuts.  You must retrain your brain and muscles to a good technique.  This is used by pro athletes, law enforcement, etc.

I’ve had several bouts of target panic. I’d miss 2′ targets at 10 yards and shake like sapling in a wind storm.  I stuck with the above program and continue it today. I start almost every practice session with blind bale and I’m a very confident shooter now!

Let me know how you are progressing! Stick to this program!  

Enjoy creation,

grant 

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What time of year is most beneficial to remove coyotes?

Question
I just read an article in the July 2015 edition of Bowhunter. It was written by C.J. Winand, titled Coyote Update. I’ve watch most if not all of your videos on your site and have seen the videos about trapping predators to help limit offspring mortality. Most trapping seasons are in the fall, well at least here in Illinois. After reading this article I was curious to hear what you might have to say about their findings. The idea that hunting/trapping coyotes in the Fall don’t seem to have much affect on the heard. Should hunting of coyotes be in the late winter months?? Just found it interesting and after watching you videos you appear to take a very scientific approach to your land and wildlife management.

Thanks,
Michael

I tried to attached a copy of the article.

Michael,

I haven’t read C.J. Winand’s article titled Coyote Update.  

I suspect he’s referencing research that showed coyotes can be very mobile and tend to fill areas/territories that aren’t defended by other coyotes.  One of the grad students I helped advise published the results of removing coyotes just before and during fawning season.  There was an amazing response in fawn survival!  You can read about that work at:  https://getd.libs.uga.edu/pdfs/vangilder_cory_l_200808_ms.pdf

However, in many states, including where I live in Missouri coyote trapping season closes well before fawning season. That doesn’t mean there aren’t benefits to trapping coyotes during the winter.  I’ve trapped at my place for years.  Through the years we’ve noticed an improved fawn survival rate.  It seems trapping during the winter requires many more years to achieve the same results at trapping just prior to or during the fawning season.  

As the State Director of Wildlife in Virginia said recently “…dead coyotes don’t eat deer…”  If the predator/prey population is out of balance where you hunt, I encourage you to remove coyotes whenever you legally can.

Enjoy creation,

grant

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How old is this buck from Sedalia, Missouri?

Question
My Dad and I went out the other night to purchase a trail camera to see what new deer may be on our property. Our property is outside Sedalia, Mo and we knew that there had been big mature deer there in the past. We discovered this deer that is giving us some trouble trying to tell the age. We were wondering if you could help.

Thanks,
Will

Will,

That’s a good looking buck!  It’s tough to accurately estimate the age of deer when part of their body is blocked by plants.  From what I can see it appears his neck merges well above where his chest meets his brisket.  HIs shoulders and hams don’t appear to be fully developed and his facial features are very fine (unscarred).  

These are all indicators the buck is likely 2 or 3 years old.  If he’s a 2 year old the buck has tremendous potential!  Even if he’s 3 years old he’s a great looking buck!  

Enjoy creation,

grant

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What can I train to shoot a bow with a heavier draw weight?

Question
Hi,
I am a 13 year old beggining bow hunter, and I was wondering if you have any exercise you could give me to get stronger so that I can to pull my bow back with out as much effort, because right now I’m having trouble keeping my bow steady before I shoot.
Thanks,
Jeremy

Jeremy,

I’m glad you are a fellow bowhunter!  I’m not a fitness expert.  I’ve read and believe that the best training for shooting a bow is to shoot a bow.  Shooting exercises the exact muscles used for this activity.  I suggest you back off the weight of your bow so you can shoot it comfortably.  This will allow you to shoot more accurately than while straining.  

Shooting a bow that is set to heavy will cause you to develop an improper shooting form.  By shooting an appropriate weight bow you will be more accurate and accuracy is way more important than arrow speed.  As you practice you’ll gain strength through repetition! 

Practicing should be fun and rewarding and this will happen if you shoot with a bow that’s the right weight and draw length.

Enjoy creation,

grant

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Should I use a cover crop when planting clover?

Question
I’m getting ready to plant some very small deer food plots in the woods and open field edges. I have heard you say that low growing clovers generate faster in high traffic areas. What type of clover is low growing and would you mix other things with it or would you sow it solo?

Thanks,
Tim

 

Tim,

I strongly prefer using wheat as a cover crop when I establish clover during the fall.  The wheat will usually germinate quickly and provide forage while the clover is still very small. In addition, the wheat will protect the young clover from hard rains, harsh sun during dry conditions, etc.

The following spring the wheat will serve to outcompete most weeds. In addition, when the wheat matures deer and turkeys will benefit and be very attracted to the wheat grain!

Once the grain is consumed the wheat straw will decompose and serve as organic matter and fertilize for the clover.

I’ve had much success using the Monster wheat variety from http://www.EagleSeed.com.

I like a short growing clover.  I avoid most ladino varieties.  I’m experimenting with some newer varieties now and will keep you posted how they perform.

Enjoy creation!

grant

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How much Roundup should be used to treat food plots?

Question
I’m not a farmer and I get very confused on how to read and figure out the proper mixture of roundup to water to kill weeds and grasses before I plant. Any guidance would be appreciated.

David,

I agree!  Herbicide labels can be confusing due to all the legalize.

The active ingredient in Roundup is glyphosate and it’s one of the safest herbicides used today.  Unless there are weeds that are resistant to glyphosate most farmers use 2 quarts of Roundup per 20-25 gallons of water per acre.  

There are many variables such as the hardness of the water, the droplet size produced by the sprayer’s nozzles, etc. However, 2 quarts of Roundup mixed with 20-25 gallons of water is a very generic and successful recipe.  

Enjoy creation!

grant

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Will fawns survive if the doe is harvested?

Question
Mr. Grant,
I see does and fawns all the time while hunting, but it always seems the mature does have fawns. And I always end up talking myself out of shooting a doe with fawns. Will the fawns be able to survive without a mother? Any other tips on managing the deer herd would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Wheeler Brewster

Wheeler,

Most state agencies don’t allow doe harvest until most fawns are old enough to survive should the doe be removed.  It’s often necessary to remove does to balance the number of deer with the habitat’s potential to produce quality forage in many areas.  This has been a standard practice for decades in most states and the deer herds have thrived!  

If there are more deer than the habitat where you hunt can produce quality forage or if the adult buck:doe ratio is out of balance in favor of does I suggest you tag some does and allow you and your family to enjoy fresh venison while helping the deer herd!

Enjoy creation,

Grant

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Will you share some of recipes and cooking techniques?

Question
Dear Grant,

Have you ever thought of doing some cooking videos?

Thanks,

Derek

Derek,

Mrs. Tracy has agreed to share some of her preparation techniques and recipes!  Keep watching!   

grant

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Will prescribed fire help native grasses become re-established?

Question
We have a big field that we had in CREP, but it may come out because it is starting to be taken over by other herbaceous plants. My dad is talking about farming it when it comes out, but I think it would benefit the wildlife more if we didn’t. I am trying to talk him into a controlled burn that would help bring back the grasses. Could you give me more information about when we would have someone burn it for us and if it would help or not and why.

Logan,

Prescribed fire can be an excellent and relatively inexpensive tool to promote native warm season grasses.  The best results usually occur when prescribed fire is used before the native warm season grasses have started growing during the late spring.  Most other herbaceous and woody plants will have already greened up before the native warm season grasses.  Fire will set back these other species and stimulate the established native warm season grasses and their seeds to grow!  

In areas where ag is the predominate land use, cover can be a limiting factor for wildlife.  Native warm season grasses can provide great cover as well as build huge amounts of organic matter!

Enjoy creation,

grant

 

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What to plant in food plots that are less than an acre?

Question
Grant!

Fellow “Ozarkian” here! haha. I live just south of Branson MO, across the Border in Omaha, Arkansas. So we’re neighbors!
Let me first start off by saying thank you for all your efforts and wonderful information, great videos, and faith in our Lord Jesus Christ. As nothing is possible without him.
Now, on to my question. I’d like to spice up my small food plots, where each is less than an acre, and I’d like your personal input on what version of seed I should get from Eagle since you know our weather, terrain, and layouts down here in the Ozarks. I’d love to use a “multi” type seed where i had clover, beans, wheat, turnips, so that they come up at different times. That sort of seed that works well with other seeds. And the best time frame to seed it.

Thanks a ton Sir,
God Bless,
Allen

Allen,

I’ve been planting Eagle’s Seed’s (www.EagleSeed.com) forage soybeans in small plots and then over seeding them with Broadside during mid August (when there’s ample soil moisture available.  Eagle’s Wildlife Manager’s blend works great for smaller plots.  This rotation has both attracted deer and built soil!  Deer love the soybeans all summer and the Broadside blend includes radishes, a forage wheat, and two types of brassicas.

Deer prefer the radishes early, the wheat during the mid season, and the brassicas during the late season!

The forage soybeans are Roundup Ready so it’s easy to keep the plots weed-free all summer and the Broadside blend can be seeding into the weed-free beans during the fall. This rotation does a great job of breaking the weed cycle!

Enjoy creation,

grant

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At what age should I “cull” bucks?

Question
Dear Dr. Woods,

Me and some friends were discussing genetics or the lack there of. The questions is at what age do you harvest a genetically inferior buck or a buck that has some sort of antler “problem”? I noticed in one of your episodes that you passed on a buck with an odd rack that looked to be 3 y/o. Do you stick to your guns of only harvesting a 4 y/o and give the inferior gene another year to replicate? or do you harvest the deer at a younger age 2-3 y/o to get him out of the gene pool? Thank you for your time.

Ben

Ben,

Recently we’ve shared footage of a buck we call Chainsaw!  He has very large antlers several kickers.  I confident almost every deer hunter would gladly tag Chainsaw.  I estimate this buck to be 4 years old. We don’t recognize Chainsaw as any of the bucks from our farm last year.  Chainsaw’s range also includes a member of our local deer coop and that landowner doesn’t recognize him either.  I suspect Chainsaw’s antlers are much larger this year than during any previous year.  Had we (or our neighbor) been tagging 3 year old or younger deer Chainsaw may not have survived to express his genetic potential.

I’ve seen this same pattern many times!  Bucks often don’t show their genetic potential until they reach 4 years old or older.  Several spikes that have been tagged or fitted with a radio collar have produced Boone and Crockett level antlers when they matured to 4 years old or older.  

Based on this and several research projects I do recommend passing bucks until the age criteria used where you hunt. It’s almost impossible to determine a buck’s antler production potential at younger ages.  

Remember that does make a huge contribution to antler shape.  The bottom line is that culling bucks without a known pedigree for several generations on both the doe and buck side is useless.  

Enjoy creation,

grant

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What’s a good backstop to place behind a 3D archery target?

Question
Not s tough question. I have been looking for a solid solution to bow practice where I am able to retrieve arrows without damage or difficulty. I noticed you have a large white square backstop behind your 3d deer target. Can you provide me with a little information on the backstop to include what your thoughts are on it with broad heads or target tips? What it is made out of? Possible distributors?

I have my barn behind the 3d target at my home in the event the 3d is missed (don’t want to lose any at the cost of arrows today). You can see my 3d target in the background of the picture I have attached. (No killing at the house. These are off limits! Wife’s rules. 🙂 )

Thank you for your advice and help. Wishing you all a very successful hunting season this year! Thank you for all the videos and educational material you have provide not only me but those whom I have shared your site.

Take care and be safe!
Rich Tanner
Warrenton, Virginia

Richard,

Deer feeding behind houseThe large “white square” is a product from a company that is no longer in business.  It is only to be used with field tips.

I often use large round bales of hay as a backstop behind 3D targets. These are inexpensive work work great!  They will decompose over time and need to be replaced.

Thank you for watching http://www.GrowingDeer.tv and for sharing the link with  your friends!

Enjoy creation!

 

 

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Hatch or Predator Raid?

Question
Grant,
I found this nest site last week at my farm in Dallas County. In your opinion, does this look like a successful hatch or predator raid?

I really enjoy your Growingdeer.tv!

Mark

 

Mark,

Turkey poults usually pip or open one end of the egg shell to get out.Some of the shells appear that a chick was successfully hatched. Othershells have been crunched by a predator, etc. Most predators would destroyall eggs, not just one or two.

I suspect the chicks hatched normally and then a predator found the nextand busted a few shells by stepping on them, etc.

Hopefully the chicks are still alive and growing!!

Enjoy creation,

Grant

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Where can I hunt in South Carolina?

Question
Hey mr. Grant,
im a young hunter in SC, i was just wondering if you knew any spots to hunt here,i know you probably get asked questions like this all the time and you obviously cant give away your best spots,however if you could help that’d be great!
Sincerely Clayton Hock

Clayton,

Tracy (my wife) and I used to live near Abbeville, South Carolina! I did my Ph.D., work in Clemson!  While in school I hunted on the National Forest above Clemson and hunted around Greenwood and Abbeville when Tracy and I lived in that area. I had some great hunts on public land. Not many folks are willing to hike into the National Forest in the Mountains above Clemson. There was rarely much sign of hunters 1/2 mile or more off the road.  

I also enjoyed some good hunts near Abbeville, South Carolina. I often traded helping with some projects for permission to hunt private land.  You might attend some local Quality Deer Management Association meetings and ask landowners there if you could trade helping them for permission to hunt!  Many landowners will trade help with planting food plots, preparing stands, etc ., for access to hunt.  

You can find out where local Quality Deer Management Association branches are meeting at http://www.QDMA.com.  There are QDMA branches throughout South Carolina.

Enjoy creation!

grant

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How long will it take for deer to return to an area after it’s been disturbed?

Question
Grant,

I was receiving several day and night pictures of different deer every day on my cellular trail camera. I did some plowing and planting on the food plot, hung a 55gal free choice corn feeder, and disposed of some old feed oats in the garage around the plot. Since doing so 4 days ago I have not seen a single deer on the camera. I moved the camera only 20yds or so. My fiance and I both used bug spray generously while we were there.

What can I do to bring them back?

I know the camera is functioning properly because I’m receiving raccoon pictures.

Thanks,

Neil

Neil,

Deer don’t like change.  It can take a week or longer for deer to accept significant changes.  The feeders, smell of the oats, removal of vegetation and plowing all were major changes in the area monitored by the camera. I suggest you simply stay away from the area a few days and allow deer to accept the changes aren’t associated with danger.  Once they are comfortable they will return to the plot unless they’ve found a better food source or one they don’t associate with danger.    

Enjoy creation,

grant

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Do some areas have better genetics for producing larger antlers than other areas?

Question
Dr Woods,

Are certain areas in the MidWest more genetically gifted for growing larger racked whitetails? I know you like to discuss whitetail habitat because it can be manipulated to improve antler growth. Genetics not so much in a wild herd. But, won’t you agree that the true rate limiting step to growing MONSTER 200″+ whitetails are the genetics specific to that animal(s). Do these 200″ genetics occur at random throughout the range of the different whitetail sub-species. Or, are there areas such as Western WI, South Central Iowa, NE Missouri, etc etc that have higher genetic potential to grow 200″ whitetails.

I know after watching/managing a herd for over a decade in WI (1000+ acres on multiple properties) that certain antler characteristics are specific for certain “micro” habitats. Suggesting, genetics of the local herd of animals may be at play with ample food available and minimal stress on these larger properties. I would love to hear your thoughts…. seeing as the last growing deer tv episode focused on Mississippi study showing that the genetic potential existed, but was essentially masked by inadequate nutrition.

Joshua,

I’m not aware of any research that shows some areas have better genetics than others for producing large antlered bucks.  

You mentioned northern Missouri.  That’s a great example!  There wasn’t a deer season in any northern Missouri counties when I was a child.  Missouri has great stocking records and many of the deer used to stock the northern Missouri counties were from Taney County – where I live!  So – same genetics in northern Missouri where many BC bucks are tagged and Taney County where a BC buck has never been recorded.  

Clearly the difference in soil quality and forage (soybeans versus timber) accounts for the differences.  Within any location there will be huge genetic diversity among deer.  I don’t believe the BC distribution map reflects differences in regional genetic diversity. Rather if reflects differences in habitat quality and management (age structure due to state regulations, etc.).

Enjoy creation!

grant

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How does humidity impact your stand selection?

Question
Grant, I really enjoy growingdeertv. Just finished watching the latest vid of Chainsaw and the interns setting a stand on a glade. The discussion went to the different characteristics of the stand. I thought it very interesting that Adam was saying if the humidity was too high yall would not hunt that stand. Is that a regular practice? Thanx Calvin

Calvin,

Scent carries better during moist than dry conditions.  So we rarely hunt from stands where the wind is likely to swirl when the humidity is high.  During high humidity conditions we are more likely to select stand locations on ridgetops or areas where the wind is not blocked by vegetation or topographic features.  At such locations the wind is much less likely to swirl.

Enjoy creation!

grant 

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Should I spray before I disk?

Question
I’m wanting to put in a brassica food plot and I have got to spray the weeds to kill it out before I can plant. I have glyphosate 50% to spray with how long do I need to wait before I can disk and plant new seed? Would appreciate any insight. Thank you in advance Danny

Danny,

Glyphosate has no activity in the soil.  It’s only works by entering plants through green leaves, etc.  So there’s very limited value in spraying glyphosate before disking.  The disking should kill all the weeds.

Enjoy creation!

grant

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How old is this buck?

Question
Hi Grant,

I grabbed this picture from my trail cam Monday. Can you estimate the age of this buck by the picture? I’m thinking 4-5 yrs old. ( by the signs you say to look for on the show )

Thanks
Lee

leeimage1

Lee,

The buck in your picture appears to have a swayed back, pot-belly, and his chest sags below where his shoulders meets his legs.  In addition, his shoulders and hams are very well developed.  These are all indicators that the buck is four years old or older. He’d certainly be on my hit list!  

I hope you have a great encounter with him!  

Enjoy creation!

grant

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What are some raccoon trapping tips?

Question
Hello Grant, I really enjoy your videos and your information you guys put out. I’m new to the trapping world and I’m trying my hand at it this coming season here in Pennsylvania. I’m going to be trapping an area that is high in red fox as well as coon. This also happens to be my bow deer hunting spot which has a lot of activity. I was wondering if you could give me some tips and pointers on how to get started. Just as a side note I already have some bait for the traps which i ordered specially made for fox and coon, 2 rebar 18inch stakes for the traps, as well as 2 Victor #1 1/2 traps for the job. I’m sure you get a ton of emails and posts asking for your advice but if you happen to come upon my request it would be much appreciated if you could throw some advice my way. Hunting and fishing and just being outdoors admiring nature and what our great Creator gave us is my life and something I long to do for the rest of my life. I wish you and your family the best of luck on this upcoming deer and trapping season and as always enjoy the outdoors.

Thank You
Andrew

Andrew,

I really enjoy trapping!  I enjoy the activity and working to balance the predator/prey populations!  There are not many red fox where I live due to high numbers of coyotes.  In fact, we saw three coyotes in the yard today.

We have a lot of raccoons.  I trap raccoons to reduce the number of nest predators during the turkey nesting season.  Each fall more raccoons disperse back into my property as there is not much trapping pressure in the surrounding area.

I’ve been using Duke cage trap for years with great success!  These traps are very easy and quick to set and almost failproof!  I use sweet baits (peanut butter, marsh mellows, orange slice candies, etc., during the early fall and more meat based baits once the temperatures get colder.  This rotation of baits has proven very successful for me!

Enjoy creation!

 

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Will green vegetation burn?

Question
Good Evening Dr. Woods,

Two things: Last weekend I ran into a road block with a 2 acre plot I have. I really needed to burn the plot because there was so many leaves on it. However, I was unsure as to how to properly burn a food plot. I’ve seen your videos on how to do a prescribed burn on woodland, but not a plot. Will the green vegetation not burn? Please help!!

Next, I’ve been hearing loads of people take about the new craze of hinge cutting. I’ve read you can actually funnel the deer from the bedding are you have made, to the travel corridor you have also made, to a blind setup where you are waiting. How come you have never talked about this/added this to your arsenal?

Your friend,

Jim Marshall

Jim,

Green vegetation usually won’t carry a fire very well.  Green vegetation is usually full (literally) of water.  Some plants are composed of 70% water!  In situations where you are trying to remove such vegetation it’s often best to mow the vegetation and allow it to dry then carefully use a prescribed fire to remove the duff.  The fire can also create a clean seedbed!

I very rarely prescribe hinge cutting.  It can work well the first year or two. However the limbs will rapidly grow toward the sun and shade out any vegetation below.  Deer and most critters need cover from ground level to three feet tall.  Most hinge cutting creates cover above three feet. In a few years when the hinge cutting shades out the ground it’s an ugly mess that’s difficult to redirect to better type of cover.

Enjoy creation!

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What steps should I take to create a staging area food plot?

Question
Food plot question. I looked at the ask Grant section and got a lot of tips but none fully addressed my question. I hunted a soybean field last season with my stand on the edge of the field/woods facing the field. Not many opportunities in the field occurred but a lot of ‘just out of bow range’ activity was going on in the woods behind me. I moved my stand last week near a trail intersection with some decent rubs (last seasons) nearby. It seems like a staging area and i am positive the ‘big 9’ uses it to get in and out of the field. There is a break in the canopy where some ground cover grows, it doesn’t get browsed. I would like to replace it with some sort of staging forage. Can I use a weed whacker to cut it all down, and lime/fertilize in one day then come back and seed? Or should I “round-up” then come back and rake, fertilize seed. We are getting close to bow season and I don’t want to miss this opportunity to hold deer in this area. I am in the Upstate of SC bow season starts in about 5 weeks.

I really like your plan to move off the field edge and create a staging area hidely hole plot!!

Whether it will be best to cut the weeds or use herbicide depends on the species of weeds.  Most perennial weeds will simply sprout back after being cut.  The safest bet is to use glyphosate. You can spray on day (in good conditions) and literally add lime, fertilizer and seed the next.  

Make sure the site receives at least 50% sunshine a day.  Forage crops need sunshine to grow.  I often use a rack or other hand tools to prepare hidy hole plots!  

Let me know how this one turns out!

Enjoy creation!


 

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How can I control grass in my radish food plot?

Question
I planted a food plot (rack radish crush item #1808301 at basspro) about June 12th My friend then unwittingly planted grass over the same area. The grass is obviously higher than the radishes, which have been munched on by the deer a lot as well. The grass is actually doubling over some. My question is, should I mow the area to give the radishes a fighting chance? Will it even help?

Thanks!

Wes

It depends on what type of grass and how mature it is.  There are several grass-specific herbicides such as Poast Plus, Clethodim, etc.  None of them are very effective on grass that’s very mature.  So using a grass-specific herbicide depends on the maturity of weeds. You could try mowing but most grass species respond to being cut by growing again if it’s during the growing season.  

It may be best to terminate the weeds and crop by herbicide or tillage and plant a fall crop now.  If you take this action, make sure there is plenty of soil moisture before you plant the new crop!

Enjoy creation!

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Is the Mississippi State research that tested whether antler size is limited by genetics or environment factors available in a written publication?

Question
Any chance we can get a hard copy or emailed pdf of the MSU study?

Thanks,

Marc

The results of the recent research by scientists at Mississippi State University that we shared (https://www.growingdeer.tv/#/whitetail-antlers-and-genetics-fact-or-fiction) hasn’t been published yet.  It is to be published soon and we’ll share a link to that publication when it’s available.

Enjoy creation!

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Can deer be conditioned to accept a specific odor?

Question
Grant,

Is it possible to condition a deer to a specific smell? for example Could you apply your scent cover at your stand year round and condition a deer to that particular smell? Where I hunt the wind swirls almost always. I know that the best option would be to have a sealed blind.

Deer in research facilities do become conditioned to accept and not become alerted to certain individuals or smells that would alert wild deer.  

Deer have an incredible sense of smell.  I suspect they can be conditioned to accept any cover scent. However, when the hunter was present the deer would most likely smell the human and cover sent.  I don’t believe the cover scent will mask all odors given off by the hunter – including the hunters breath, ongoing death of bacteria, etc.  

Cover scents have been around for decades and still hunters commonly get busted by deer.

Enjoy creation!

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Can bears displace deer from an area?

Question
Hello Dr. Grant, Adam, Family, and Interns,
I live in the mountains of Western NC. I have seen (on trail camera pictures) this year and last, an increase in the number of bears and a decrease in the number of deer on one of the properties my family and I hunt. Are the deer avoiding the area because of the bears?

Background Information:
2 years ago we had pictures of approximately 8-12 different deer and maybe 1 or 2 pictures of bears all season( i think of the same bear). Last year throughout the hunting season we had regular pictures of 2 boar bears, a female with 2 cubs, and 1 adolescent bear. Last year also showed a slight decrease in the frequency of deer pictures and I don’t have an accurate count on how many different deer we had pictures of but I can estimate it to be about 8-10. This year (I know it is early but I have only seen pictures of 2 does (each with 1 fawn) and 2 bucks for a total of 6 deer. Bear numbers are exploding. Daily pictures of bears include: 1 big boar, 2 females, one with 2 cubs and one with 4 cubs, and 1 adolescent. This is a minimum of 10 bears total, maybe more.

Thanks in advance for any help or information you can give. My family and I love your videos for both their educational and entertainment value and we love that you share the Gospel through you work.

Your Fellow Hunter and Brother In Christ,
Brent in Western NC

Brent,

Thank you for watching GrowingDeer and for sharing the encouraging words!  

I believe the primary determinant of deer activity is survival.  Deer certainly co-exist with bears in many areas.  However, deer often change habits/patterns when a new or increase of predators occurs.  Given the substantial increase the number of bears where you hunt it’s certainly possible that deer in the area have switched to using a different portion of their home range.  

I suggest you don’t use any supplemental feed as bears are very attracted to easy groceries.  If you aren’t feeding then there’s probably not much you can do to discourage the bears from spending so much time where you hunt.  Hopefully some of the bears will move on soon!

Enjoy creation! 

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Is it safe for deer and other wildlife to consume plants treated with glyphosate?

Question
Dr. Woods,

I need to spray 3 small food plots in NW Wisconsin with glyphosate so I can get them planted with fall crops. The deer have browsed most of the good forage out of the plots but they along with some turkeys are still foraging in the plots on a daily basis. I don’t want to spray a chemical that will harm the critters. Do I need to worry about deer that try and browse the food plots after I have treated it with glyphosate?

Thanks for the help with this question,
Mark in Wisconsin

Mark,

There are no grazing restrictions on the glyphosate label.   In addition literally millions of deer and other critters have browsed on glyphosate treated crops throughout the U.S. for years without one reported negative response.  There have been literally 1,000’s of studies and not one scientific, peer-reviewed study has shown a negative relationship between glyphosate and humans or deer.  

Based on the research to date, and no known negative reports for more than a decade, you should feel comfortable using glyphosate per the instructions on the label.

  

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How many days should a ground blind be in place before hunting from it?

Question
Grant,

When would be a good time to place ground blinds out prior to season?

Thank you,
Jeremy Starner

Deer usually take a while to accept blinds placed in their range.  Some folks do a great job of “brushing in” blinds and deer seem to accept these new “brush piles” quicker than a typical blind.  For the last two years I’ve been using a Hay Bale blind from Redneck (www.RedneckBlinds.com).  I’ve found that deer accept these blinds the first day they are put out if there are hay bales in the area.  I’ve been shocked at how rapidly deer ignore a hay bale blind placed at the edge of a food plot versus a tent style blind!

No matter what style of blind being used, I suggest getting it out as soon a practical.  Every day that deer walk by it without associating with danger makes it a better hunting location!

Enjoy creation!


 

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When should the Broadside blend be planted in northern Mississippi?

Question
I have a question about planting fall food plots. I hunt on about 85 acres, mostly farm fields and lets say 25% woods.
The question is the farmer plants soybeans in May and cuts around Nov. could I spread eagle seed broadside over top of the soybeans and the crop come up? I’m going to plant 3 plots in this same seed mix.One field will be 1 acre and the other 2 plots are going to be long half acres. Whats your thoughts on planting like this; I will also plant in the last part of August. because I live in North MS.
Thanks for your help and keep up the great work on the videos.

Corey,

Broadside should be planted 45 to 60 days before the first expected frost.  The average first frost date in northern Mississippi is during late October (check out:  http://www.plantmaps.com/interactive-mississippi-first-frost-date-map.php).  Based on this information I’d suggest planting during the first week or two of September.  Within that range I’d try to broadcast the Broadside just before a rain.  There will normally be a higher germination rate for seed that’s broadcast if it’s planted just before or even during a rain.  

This technique usually results in rapid germination and prevents seed from being damaged by desiccation and/or being consumed by rodents and birds.  

You need to check with landowner/farmer to insure they are OK with Broadside germinating before the soybean crop is harvested.  I’ve used this technique often with great results!

Enjoy creation!

 

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How much Broadside should be broadcast over existing Eagle Seed forage soybeans?

Question
How much broadside should be broadcast in a half acre of eagle seed beans?

There’s always some seed that doesn’t germinate when using the Broadcast technique.  This can be due to where the seeds land, being consumed by rodents or birds, etc. 

I’ve had very good success broadcasting Broadside over existing beans at 25 pounds per quarter acre.

Enjoy creation! 

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Why do some deer seem to have fewer ticks?

Question
In my trail cam picks I notice that the larger bucks have fewer ticks between the shoulder blades and on the ears as many of the does and smaller bucks. Is this cause or effect? Are they healthier because they don’t have ticks – or do they keep ticks off because they are healthier? Why are some deer’s ears and shoulder blades just dripping with ticks, but not others in exact same area?

Thanks!
Rev. H. R. Curtis
Worden, IL

I’ve had the same observation here at The Proving Grounds!  For example, one of the larger antlered bucks here now is Chainsaw.  We’ve shown several video clips of him.  It appears Chainsaw has fewer ticks than other bucks and does of the same age class and using the same areas.

I assume for reason Chainsaw doesn’t attract ticks as much as the other deer in the area.  This is only a assumption and I’m not aware of any biological facts to support this assumption.

For comparison, Adam is younger and probably healthier than me.  When we work side by side we seem to get about the same number of ticks – as does the rest of our Team.  

If you learn more on this subject, please share it with me!  

Enjoy creation! 

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When should Broadside be broadcast in northern Indiana?

Question
It is time in Northern Indiana to broadcast Broadside in our eagle seed beans. I have a half acre of eagle seed beans how much Broadside do I use? Do I use a half acres worth or less? Azar (aka Big Boy) would like to know! See Pic.

Broadside does best when it’s planted 45 – 60 days before the first hard frost.  None of us can predict when the first frost will occur each fall so the best  we can do is use the average first frost date for each area.  The average first frost date for northern Indiana is around the 2nd week of October.  Based on this average I suggest broadcasting the Broadside blend during mid August or so.  I would wait until there is a good chance of rain in the forecast.  The broadcast planting technique works best if the seed are spread just before (or even during) a rain.  

We’ll be planting Broadside at The Proving Grounds about the same time as you!

 

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How is Antler Dirt made?

Question
Dr. Grant. I don’t have access to Antler Dirt here in Statesboro Georgia. Go Georgia Southern Eagles!!!! How can I create my own with dried chicken manure? Could you provide me with a step by step ingredient list and how much to add per acre? I love your show and have learned so much from you and Adam. Thanks.

Antler Dirt is composted and humified poultry litter.  You can learn more about how it’s made by watching: https://www.growingdeer.tv/#/big-antlers-start-in-the-dirt

To build Antler Dirt correctly requires turning it daily and adding beneficial living microbes, etc.  I suspect it would be much less expensive to pay the shipping than to purchase the equipment and all the ingredients.

You might reach out to the guys at http://www.AntlerDirt.com to learn more.  

Enjoy creation!

 

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How old is this buck?

Question
Im here to ask you how old these deer is in the attached pictures are, I hunt a 500 acre area my grandparents own in Morgan county Ohio, only being 17 I have harvested several 130” deer but want something more mature and bigger.

Heavy 8 (2) Heavy 8 (4) Lucky 13 (106) Lucky 13 (114)

I typically only estimate the age of one buck per question. I’ll spend some time analyzing the first buck (color pics).
This buck’s neck merges with his chest in the brisket area.  There appears to be a hump over his shoulder and his chest sags below where his legs merge with his shoulders.  These are all good indicators this buck is 4 or older.  He’d be on my wish list!  I hope you have a great encounter with him!
 
Enjoy creation!
Grant

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How fast does lime work to alter the soil’s pH?

Question
Hi, my name is Duane Spurgin. I have mainly hunted public ground my whole life but I have recently acquired permission on a 60 acre tract of land. I am located in central Missouri. (Phelps county to be exact) The landowner has given me permission to plant a couple small food plots. Both are approximately between 1/4 to 1/2 acre. I am new to planting food plots so I’m looking for any advice as to what to plant. I’ve done some research and everything strongly recommends lime but I don’t have the time to adjust the pH with bow season quickly approaching and planting season about 2 weeks away. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and god bless

Duane,

Congratulations on accurate some land the manage and hunt!!

It can take months for normal ag lime to totally react with soil. However, the finer particles will begin reacting with the soil within days if there is adequate soil moisture.  I suggest you go ahead and apply lime now. The crops will get some benefit now and more as they mature throughout the fall! 

The finer the grind of lime the faster it reacts with soil. There are some sources of very finely ground lime that has been pelletized so it’s easy to spread.  I did some research on high quality pelletized lime years ago and it substantially improved the soil’s pH in a month!  

Whether you use standard ag lime or high quality pelletized lime I suggest you spread it as soon as you can!

Enjoy creation!

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Are there ways to improve the germination rate of seed that’s to be broadcast into standing soybeans?

Question
hi mr. woods thank you for answering my question about spreading broadside in the north!! im excited for a qdma field day at my local branch this weekend, anything I should look for or important questions to ask? I sprayed my plot and I have almost a pure stand of growing beans im really happy with eagle seeds habitat seeds, hopefully broadside has same results. my question to you now is im going to broadcast my broadside and some other fall blends to give different variety, when looking at my plots we have had very hot weather and I have a “top crust” if you want to say with cracks, ridges etc, im more concerned with germination or if seeds to deep things of that nature. Is there anything I can do to help like spread top soil by hand or anything to get bit of dirt on top? does it matter?

Thanks again!!
mike

Mike,

I hope you enjoy the Field Day with your local QDMA Branch!  

I wouldn’t broadcast the seed into your standing soybean food plot until the chances of rain are very good!  There must be adequate soil moisture for seeds to germinate and survive.  Rain also serves to splash dirt and help cover the seeds!  In addition rodents and birds can consume must of the seed if it lays on top of the ground and doesn’t germinate.  

I often broadcast seed during rain with great results!

Enjoy creation,

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What percentage of land should be in food plots?

Question
How many acers do you own? And how many food plots should you have on your land per acer? Also, how many food plots should you have per however many groups of deer?

There are many variables that determine how many acres of food plot there should be on any property.  If the hunting property is an area where corn and soybean crops are commonly grown then food plots, especially during the summer, are rarely necessary.  In these areas food plots during the hunting season can be useful to attract deer after the production crops have been harvested.  

In areas where timber or pasture are the primary land uses then more acres of food plots will be necessary to provide enough quality forage for all deer to express their full genetic potential. Ideally there will be enough acres of food plots that each deer has all the quality forage they wish to consume. 

An easy and accurate indicator that can be used to evaluate the quantity of food to the number of deer in an area is to notice if quality forage such as soybeans is being over-browsed.   If it is then either more acres of food plots should be established or the deer population should be reduced – or both actions at the same time.  

Enjoy creation! 

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Should I overseed Eagle Seed forage soybeans even if they produced a good crop?

Question
Thanks Grant for taking the time to look at my question. I live and hunt in Wisconsin near Trempleau county. I have a 1 acre plot that I planted in eagle seed soybeans this spring, with the expectation that it would provide forage for deer during the summer, but it would be over browsed, probably not set pods, and come late summer, I would be able to overseed it with broadside blend. Well I may have underestimated the browse tolerance of eagle seed beans and they are about knee high (I’m 6’3″) and have totally closed off and created a canopy such that I can’t see any bare dirt when I look at them from afar and up close. Not being a farmer and never having planted soybeans before, I’m not sure how to tell if these plants are going to produce soybean pods to hunt in the winter. I don’t want to ruin perfectly good beans and at the same time waste the eagle seed putting it in the plot and not have it germinate because the seeds can’t get any sun. Similarly, i don’t want to be fooled into thinking that these plants will set bean pods, not seed it, have the forage beans die in October and nothing but bare dirt to look at come thanksgiving. Not to mention the weed problem come spring when I try to plant again. Thanks in advance if you have a chance to answer my question.

Like you, I’m amazed every year at how much forage Eagle Seed forage soybeans produce even when being heavily browsed.

Unless there’s an earlier than normal frost at your property or you planted a very late maturing variety of Eagle Seed such as Big Fellow or Large Lad it shoulds like the beans in your plot will produce pods.

I really like the many benefits of cover crops!  Some cover crops can provide excellent forage for deer and other game.  When the temperatures are warmer than normal during hunting season deer tend to prefer green forage versus grains (bean pods). By overseeding standing soybeans you can provide deer both greens and grain in the same plot and keep attracting deer during both warm and cold temperatures.  

Eagle’s Broadside blend works great to mine or recycle nutrients. That is to say this blend grows in all but the coldest conditions and actively growing plants take up nutrients that otherwise might leach below the reach of new plants next spring.  When the winter cover crop is terminated the decomposing forage and roots release great nutrients for the new warm season crop.  I could go on with benefits of cover crops.

I strongly suggest planting Broadside in your standing crop of forage soybeans.  If you use a no till drill this will create gaps where the sun will reach the soil and allow the Broadside to germinate.  If you plan to broadcast the seed you may wish to drive and ATV through the plot, etc., and disturb at least 1/3 of the forage crown.  This will allow the Broadside to germinate and the remaining beans to produce pods.

I know it sounds crazy to remove a small portion of a plot you worked hard to grow!  However the benefits of a cover crop outweigh any damage to a small percentage of the standing beans.

 

 

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What forages are extremely shade tolerant?

Question
Grant: I have a beautiful secluded area of mature trees along a creek bed whose understory is almost 100% wild oats (which the deer do not eat). What can I plant there (after mowing the oats) that will be an attractive and nutritious deer food? Obviously, this area is heavily shaded. I thought of some type of clover, but when I read about the clovers, they all seem to want quite a bit of sunshine.

Most forages do require at least 1/2 day of sunshine to be productive.  The sun is the source of all energy and with ample sunlight the photosynthesis process doesn’t work.

I agree with you that white clovers are about as tolerant as any forage I’ve tried  You will need to insure there are plenty of nutrients in the soil. All forages are simply nutrient transfer agents and if the nutrients aren’t in the soil the  plants can’t transfer them to deer.

If the site has a full canopy I wouldn’t recommend using your resources to try to establish a food plot in that location.

 

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What liquid fertilizer should I use?

Question
Hi Grant,

Keep up the great work. Love the videos and information that you provide.

I am aware that you utilize Antler Dirt for fertilizing your plots, but in my situation I don not have access to the equipment necessary to apply the Antler Dirt especially in remote areas of my property and was wondering if you could recommend an all around good fertilizer for use with various types of food plots that can be applied with an ATV sprayer? If so what is it and when is the best time apply it considering both spring and fall plantings?

Regards

Plants requires a certain amount of nutrients to grow. I’m not aware of any liquid fertilize that has enough nutrients to work without a base of some traditional or composted fertilizer.

I’m sure there are some great add-on products.

Your best bet may be to build the quality of soil using minimal tillage and good crop rotation.  I’ve been amazed at how much the soil fertility has improved at my place simply from using soybeans during the warm season and a combination of radishes, wheat, and brassicas (Eagle Seed’s Broadside blend) during the fall.

 

 

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Could I spread Eagle Seed Broadside over top of production soybeans and the crop come up?

Question
I have a question about planting fall food plots. I hunt on about 85 acres, mostly farm fields and lets say 25% woods.  The question is the farmer plants soybeans in May and cuts around Nov. could I spread eagle seed broadside over top of the soybeans and the crop come up? I’m going to plant 3 plots in this same seed mix.One field will be 1 acre and the other 2 plots are going to be long half acres. Whats your thoughts on planting like this; I will also plant in the last part of August. because I live in North MS.
Thanks for your help and keep up the great work on the videos.

Great question! Yes, you can definitely plant the Eagle Seed Broadside mix over the standing production beans. See this video for my suggestions on easy food plots over standing crops: https://www.growingdeer.tv/#/secrets-to-quick-food-plots

My only concern is that you don’t plant too early. If you plant too early the farmer may have difficulty combining his soybeans in November. You always want to stay on good terms with your local farmer!

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When should the Broadside Blend be broadcast in northern states?

Question
hi Mr. woods like to take a moment and just tell you I really enjoy watching your videos and im glad I found a person in the hunting world who is helping other hunters learn about management practices without charging for there answers. I live in Albany ny and have several acres just in outskirts of the city, high deer density but there are some nice bucks in area. I planted eagle beans for first time and im using a deer barrier system to keep them out, seems effective now and beans are about shin high. I purchased your broadside blend as cover crop and I would like to know at what point should I broadcast over beans, I know its usually 60 days before first frost but are area usually stays dry come September and into hunting season, would it be ok to spread within couple weeks while I still have rain coming or should I wait? also I sprayed glyphosate over beans for weed control would there be a lot of competition with the broadside if weeds are not completely gone?

Thank you very much and keep great videos and the info coming!!
mike

Mike,

It sounds as if you have a great food plot established!  I’m glad you are preparing to overseed the Eagle Seed forage soybeans with Broadside. That’s a great technique to keep attracting deer as the seasons change.  

The Broadside or most forage crops will do better with less competition.  If the weeds are turning yellow they will likely be gone before the Broadside germinates.  If not, it might be best to treat the weeds again before planting the Broadside.  

Can you see some of the soil while walking through the plot or have the forage soybeans made a complete canopy?  If there is a complete canopy there won’t be much sunshine reaching the soil and allowing the Broadside to germinate and grow rapidly.  If this is the case I suggest splitting the plot in 1/2 and allowing deer to browse half the beans while protecting the other 1/2. Plant the Broadside in the 1/2 where the deer browse the beans and open up the canopy so at least 50% of the soil is receiving sunshine.  

Either way, I suggest planting the Broadside while there is adequate soil moisture.  This will result in a much higher rate of germination and more tonnage produced before the first killing frost.  

Enjoy creation!

grant

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Why is ragweed growing in my food plot even though I sprayed Roundup?

Question
I have bunch of this growing in a new food lot that we planted this spring, and I cant figure out what this is. I don’t think its a weed as we sprayed round up twice and let it get nice and crispy before discing up the land. Any input would be appreciated.

The plant in your picture appears to be ragweed.

The active ingredient in Roundup is glyphosate.  Glyphosate is only active on living leaf surface area.  It won’t prevent weed seeds that are in the soil from germinating.  Disking often results in bringing weed seeds within the top inch of soil. These seeds will usually rapidly germinate.  It’s rarely necessary to spray Roundup before disking as disking will remove the weeds and Roundup won’t keep existing weed seeds from germinating!

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How do you age a doe (female white-tailed deer)?

Question
I love your videos, and can’t wait to always see the next one. I consider myself your student. You give good advice on how to discern a mature buck, but where I hunt (Michigan farmland – a veritable paradise for a deer hunter) doe control is necessary, and I also prefer doe meat. I’d prefer to shoot a mature doe to an immature one, when a doe hunt is on. How can one discern a mature doe on the fly and at a distance? I’m sure you’re too busy to reply, but I don’t doubt many of your viewers would be happy to see an episode, or part of an episode, on that topic. May God bless and keep you and your loved ones.

Thank you for watching GrowingDeer and for asking God to bless our Team!

Tracy, the kids, and I all enjoy venison! Tracy’s a great cook and we consume 10+ does each year! So you and I have the same goals.

Just like with humans, does tend to show their age by changing body shape as they mature in patterns similar to bucks. As does mature their posture goes from very straight to having a swayed back and sags in the belly region. Does don’t have plastic surgery so changes due to age are probably more pronounced and constant than female humans express. In addition most does will produce fawns each year so they show similar signs of aging compared to humans as some ladies bare a lot of children while others very few or none. In addition most does give birth as yearlings or as two year old does. The age humans produce the first child is highly variable.

I tend to age does on the hoof as immature, prime, and elderly based on the shape of their body.

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How to attract older bucks?

Question
I belong to a hunt club that has 500 acres but my family and I are the only serious hunters. There has never been a 4 year old or older buck seen on the property. The oldest we have seen is a couple of 3 year olds. How do we attract and keep the older bucks?

Based on lots of data from GPS collars placed on mature bucks researchers have learned that they are unique individuals and have different habitats and home range sizes just like humans.  These data also show that the home range size of most mature bucks decreases as they mature.  

Based on these findings it is unlikely to “attract” mature bucks outside their home range. So the secrete to seeing more mature bucks on a given property is to reduce the harvest of immature bucks on the same property.  As long as the bucks are dying in a portion of their range that’s outside the property where you hunt, it only requires passing immature bucks to produce mature bucks.  

Hopefully you are part of or can form a neighborhood deer management coop and adjoining landowners will follow the same buck harvest guidelines!  This is a great way to increase the age structure of a local deer herd!

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What fruit trees are a good deer attractant?

Question
Dr. Grant,
Really enjoy your videos, guidance and passion for developing deer management strategies. I’ve learned a lot from your web site!

This is a suggestion based on an experiance I am happy to be having as a result of a neighbor setting up bee hives on his property. My neighbor set up 4 or 5 bee hives early this spring and I’ve noticed them all over my wild apple and plum trees when they were in bloom. the droning was incredible! Now the apples and plums have started to grow and I have never seen them producing so much fruit! (I’ve had the property for 9 years). Some of the plum tree branches are actually breaking under the weight of the fruit. My apple trees, one in particular that is close to my house, seem to have 50% more apples this year. We have also had good rain in the area (South West corner of Wisconsin). So if fruit bearing trees are part of your habitat strategy, Bee hives may be a good investment to promote pollination with a pleasant side effect of being able to collect some honey!

Guess I’ll add a question: How does fruit bearing trees and brush such as black caps, rasberries etc, play into your forage habitat planning?
Thanks,
Travis

Travis,

Like you, I have a friend that keeps his bees at our place!  I enjoy the work they do and the honey they make!!

I have a tree plot (fruit and nut producing trees planting within a forage-based food plot) at my place!  Here in southern Missouri I prefer fruit trees as the landscape is primarily covered by oaks.  I usually prefer plums and pears to apple trees simply because apples trees tend to require a lot more maintenance to produce fruit.  I get my tree stock from Flatwood Natives and have experienced good success and I appreciate thier service and advice!

You can see some of the planting and maintenance advice from Flatwood Natives in episode #247 here.

There’s lots of native soft mass at my ranch as a results of the native habitat management.  These include wild strawberries, dewberries, blackberries, etc. Most of these ripen long before season opens but do provide a source of energy for deer and other wildlife species.

Thank you for watching http://www.GrowingDeer.tv!

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What herbicide is best for food plots with multiple forage species?

Question
Mr woods thank you for your dedication to deer hunting and conservation in general also sending out great messages for all viewers about time spent in the outdoors and creation. My 5 year old daughter loves to set down and watch your videos with me its also something I don’t have to worry about her watching and for that I thank you!

My management question is what can I use to spray on food plots with multiple species of forage such as one plot having chicory, clover and alfalfa in an existing plot that will not kill my plantings. I use glyphosate to kill new areas to be planted but I want something to treat my plots with in early-late spring before weeds mature and take over. I have about 100 acres of my personal land to tend to but also I tend my hunting club that’s about 4800 acres of free range land in the tip northeast corner of Alabama. I know some company’s sell small bottles of select herbicide but I need something a lot more cost effective. I already mow the plots soon as possible in spring but sometimes that doesn’t work out.
thank you Matt

Matt,

Thank you for for sharing the encouraging words and leading by example!  Your daughter is blessed to have a Dad that loves her enough to constantly protect her and spend time with her!

I’m not aware of a herbicide that’s safe to use over legumes (clover and alfalfa) and chicory.  Weed control in plots with multiple species is difficult.  You can use most of the grass- specific herbicides over legumes and broadleaf (chicory) with damaging the forage crops.  There are several grass-specific herbicides and all have advantages and disadvantages.  

Mowing rarely controls weeds (grasses or broad-leafed weeds).  This is one reason I tend to plant warm season plots with a single species like forage soybeans and use blends during the cool season.  Weeds are rarely a problem in cool season plots – especially if there has been a warm season forage crop and good weed control during the summer.

Depending on the size of the plots and the number of deer in the area the best rotation I’ve found for attracting and feeding deer is Eagle Seed forage soybeans during the summer followed by overseeding the beans with the Broadside blend about 60 days before the first expected frost of the fall.

The Roundup ready beans make it easy to keep the plot weed-free during the summer and the Broadside is a great soil builder and deer attractant!

Enjoy creation,

Grant 

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How long does it take to spread lime by hand on food plots?

Question
In the latest video, you show lime being distributed with a hand seeder. But you talk about rates of 2 tons per acre.  How long does it take to spread that much lime using a hand seeder?

Doug

Doug,

I only spread lime on small plots (1/8th of an acre or so) by hand.  This still takes some time, but my spreader holds 50 pounds so I open the flow gauge up wide and spread each load quickly.  I think the effort is worth it as mature bucks readily use high quality forage in small plots that don’t receive much hunting pressure!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best type of archery practice for deer season?

Question
Hey Grant, thanks for all the helpful advise you share in your videos. I am a new bow hunter and I was wondering how you practice to get ready for deer season?
Thanks for watching http://www.GrowingDeer.tv!  I’ve found the blind bale archery practice technique very easy, can be used almost anywhere, and to work extremely well!  Check out this episode of GrowingDeer.tv for step by step instructions!  https://www.growingdeer.tv/#/how-to-get-ready-for-deer-hunting-now

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Does work on a property disturb deer?

Question

Grant,

As a weekly watcher of your series, I can’t help but notice on your shows you and your team are always out on your property. It seems like you are consistently working, hunting or taping for the show. This is where my questions lies, how are you always doing something on your property and not pushing the deer to become nocturnal or just leave the property all together?

One of the biggest issues around my WI property is pressure in the terms of people, machinery, etc. always pushing deer out of our area. I have 160 acres which isn’t chump change in our parts, but it seems like by the end of summer they have had enough of people and vacate the area.

Do you ever worry about being in the field too much? Are there areas you never go in? Are there times of the year you back off working in the field? Need some help from the Dr. Thanks,

-Jason H.

Jason,

We are constantly working or hunting on our place.  To offset this level of disturbance we have sanctuaries or places that we never go in except to retrieve a harvested deer, look for sheds, or limited management activities such as prescribed fire.

Sanctuaries are a critical part of our habitat!  We design/designate sanctuaries on all of our clients’ properties. Is their 20+ acres on your farm that serves as a sanctuary?

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer!

Grant

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Burning and replanting

Question
How can I achieve a soil management goal with out a no-till drill or is that unachieveable? My method now is to burn old fodder and replant, thus leaving my plots bare at times with no food and no protection at times.

Michael,

Prescribed fire can be a great tool in your soil management program!  Fire was a big factor in building the great soils in the prairie states.  You can use fire to remove the duff from past crops and then broadcast seed on plot.  Remember that fire rarely destroys the roots from past crops.  There is often more roots (plant material) under the soil than what is present on top the ground.  The roots will break down creating high quality organic matter and channels for roots of new plants to seek sources of water and nutrients.

When using a fire-based system of preparing a seedbed you will need to select crops that germinate well when the seeds are broadcast on top the soil.  Common crops that work well in this system include clover, wheat (most all small grains), turnips, radishes, buckwheat, etc.

I often plant 20% more pounds per acre when broadcasting compared to using a no till drill because of the seed will be consumed by critters (birds, squirrels, etc.) or won’t germinate due to limited seed to soil contact.

This system works best if the seed is planted just before a rain.  Rain prevents the seed from desiccation and helps insure the seed have good contact with the soil.

It’s often better to terminate the mature crops with herbicide to insure there’s dry vegetation and the fire will effectively burn throughout the whole plot.

The GrowingDeer.tv episode at the following link shows an example of me using fire to remove the duff from an unmanaged pasture to create a food plot:  https://www.growingdeer.tv/#/a-new-buck-and-storm-proofed-food-plots

Be careful with fire and enjoy creation!

grant

 

 

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Where do you send your coyote hides for tanning?

Question
Great information on skinning out a coyote.  Unfortunately, you did not suggest any places that you guys send your hides for tanning.   I want to do the same thing to use as gifts and such but most of the tanneries are $80 and they have to be mount ready.  Which means I have to flesh it out really good.  Please give me some ideas of where I can send my hides to.

I use Moyle Mink & Tannery (http://www.moytown.com/). The quality of work is excellent and prices are reasonable.

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When do bucks shed their antlers in NY state or Ontario, Canada?

Question
When do bucks shed their antlers in NY state or Ontario, Canada?

Jim

It’s common for bucks that are healthy to hold their antlers until mid March or so. There’s so much ag in eastern Kansas that I suspect the bucks are very healthy in your area.

Bucks, does, and fawns will use licking branches (the branches overhanging scrapes) year round. In addition, female fawns often become receptive when they reach about 70 pounds. There are probably some receptive fawns causing bucks to display rut behavior in your area.

After the majority of rutting behavior is over and the testosterone level of bucks begins to decrease they often get together in bachelor groups and will remain in these groups till they begin shedding their velvet next fall.

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Is it normal for the bucks in eastern Kansas to still have antlers in early March?

Question
I noticed that a lot of bucks are still holding their antlers here in eastern Kansas and there are still active scrapes. Is this common to have active scrapes this time of year? The bucks are running in packs like a bachelor group, is this also common?

It’s common for bucks that are healthy to hold their antlers until mid March or so. There’s so much ag in eastern Kansas that I suspect the bucks are very healthy in your area.

Bucks, does, and fawns will use licking branches (the branches overhanging scrapes) year round. In addition, female fawns often become receptive when they reach about 70 pounds. There are probably some receptive fawns causing bucks to display rut behavior in your area.

After the majority of rutting behavior is over and the testosterone level of bucks begins to decrease they often get together in bachelor groups and will remain in these groups till they begin shedding their velvet next fall.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

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What crops are good for growing deer in southern Ontario, Canada?

Question
Hi, I hunt a property that has a farmer farming the land and he usually plants either corn, millet bird seed and the odd time he’ll plant soybeans. I was just wondering, are these good crops for growing deer? I live and hunt in southern Ontario,Canada, if that would have anything to do with it?

Sounds like you have permission to hunt a good farm! Corn and millet are both great sources of energy for deer (and other species of wildlife)! However, they don’t provide much protein for deer. A combination of soybeans and corn (on different parts of the farm) would be great – with the soybeans providing protein during the growing season and corn providing energy (carbohydrates) during the winter. If some of these crops (odd corners, etc.) were left standing during the winter, they would be a great feeding and hunting area! You might consider trading the farmer work days during the off season for him leaving a bit of grain standing for hunting during the winter. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

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Wondering what herbicide do you use in your hack and spray tree elimination?

Question

What herbicide do you use in your hack and spray tree elimination?

Easton

The herbicide used depends on the species of trees to be treated. Glyphosate will work on several species and Tordon RTU works well on locust. Glyphosate doesn’t work well on maples. I suggest you Google “hack and squirt” and the type tree to be treated – like “hack and squirt maple” and find information from your area. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

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How can I increase the population of deer on the property and get them to come out in daylight hours?

Question
Hi, my name is Tanner and I am 13 years old. I hunt on a 26 acre property in New Jersey and we have a big problem. We have been trying to get a deer for two years now. We go hunting every weekend ever since we started two years ago. But we see nothing weekend after weekend — no deer. We know they are on the property because trail cameras pick up to 36 deer in one night and some decent bucks too, like 10 and 12 pointers. But they never ever come out in daylight hours. How can I increase the population of deer on the property and get them to come out in daylight hours? It is so bad that I can have over 300 pictures and not one of them are in daylight hours. I love hunting but it is starting to get old going out and sitting through freezing temperatures and seeing nothing day after day. Thank you!

Tanner, it can get tough when hunting a lot and not seeing deer! When I help folks improve hunting on properties that are similar in size to the one you hunt I always try to determine where the best food, cover, and water sources are in the neighborhood. Deer will certainly use neighboring properties so understanding where they are using food, cover, and water during different times of year and weather conditions is very important. Once I get a better handle on where deer are using food, cover, and water I see if I can create the preferred location for one of those resources on the property where my clients hunt. Second – I always have at least 4 stand/blind sites – one for a north, south, west, and east wind. Just as importantly I plan an entrance and exit route for each of those wind directions. It’s easy to alert every deer on 26 acres by simply walking to the stand with the wind at my back and letting every deer know to avoid the area while I’m there. Sometimes this means walking around the outside edge of the property or entering from the opposite side to ensure I don’t alert deer to my presence. By determining where deer are using food, cover, and water, and approaching, hunting and exiting stands/blinds without alerting deer should allow hunters to punch their tag no matter where they hunt! Finally – I often share with folks to not do the same thing and expect different results. Too often deer pattern hunters more than hunters pattern deer. Remember there are several factors that may impact deer besides the hunter – such as coyotes, bears, or hunters on neighboring properties that alert deer. I look forward to hearing about your results after you try some new strategies!

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What do deer eat when there’s snow on the ground?

Question

I love watching your weekly shows. I have a rather odd question. Where snow accumulation gets real high, 15″ or better, do you suppose turkeys will ingest deer droppings? I told you it was odd! I know there is odd forage above the deep snow that turkeys may resort to. I have a debate with a friend, he thinks they do. I know where deer have dug deep to find corn, can the turkeys still manage to find something left behind? I also know turkeys have fat stored, I believe it is 2 weeks they can go without food and 5 days max without water. If the trap line is slow and the deer hunting has ended, do a segment on turkeys in deep snow!

Nathan

I’ve never seen or read about turkeys consuming deer pellets. Deer are efficient at removing food value through their digestive track and there wouldn’t be much nutrient value in their droppings. However, if a turkey was starving they’d probably try anything! Turkeys certainly consume a very wide variety of foods – from small snakes to lots of types of vegetation! Wicked cold weather and frozen deep snow that they can’t scratch through has certainly been reported to cause turkeys to die. Let’s hope the brutal conditions change soon!

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Do you field dress the deer or do you make it a practice not to do it in the field for a reason?

Question
 I noticed when loading the deer your father killed it was not field dressed (gutted). By the way, God bless the times you have with your father. My father has passed and I miss the times we had together. Congratulations to him on his hunt! So I was wondering, do you field dress the deer or do you make it a practice not to do it in the field for a reason? I always field dress not far from the location of the kill. Thanks for your advice on this subject. Take care and have a wonderful new year! Be safe! Rich 

I truly enjoy such spending time with my dad! We really enjoyed that hunt!!! My house is just up the hill from where we were hunting – so I took the buck to the house to weigh, etc., and have a clean source of water to dress and remove the meat. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv and stay warm!

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What can I do to either bring the bucks closer to my stand(s) or bring in more bucks to the property?

Question
I just love watching your shows. I pretty much learn new techniques from every show that I do watch. I am 17 and an avid bow hunter. I only took the rifle three times this season. I hunt on private land that my family does not own, but I am allowed to put out feeders, attractants, food plots, etc. I am a deer manager myself, I pass up small bucks and small does all of the time. We only have about 350 acres of land, so there are not many big bucks (maybe 3 or 4). With other guys hunting with rifles (making it easier for them) what can I do to either bring the bucks closer to my stand(s) or bring in more bucks to the property? I’ve never shot a buck before and I have only killed one doe before and I would really love some advice and tips on bringing them in.

Thanks for reading and paying attention, Nathan

It sounds like you have a good property to hunt. However, it’s tough to pattern mature bucks anywhere! I always study the preferred sources of food, cover, and water throughout the seasons/varying conditions and use that information to pattern bucks. Just as importantly, I study where I can place and how I can approach stands without deer patterning me! I consider being able to enter, hunt, and exit the stand without alerting deer just as important as the stand location itself. I enjoy hunting does and providing that natural meat to my family. Don’t hesitate to take a few does if there are plenty of deer in your area and enjoy hunting while patterning the local deer herd! Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv and may God bless you with great 2014!

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What greens would you recommend planting in our food plot?

Question

Hi Dr. Woods, I emailed you in early October about why we were not seeing mature bucks. Our luck changed as the season went on and we had multiple encounters with some very good bucks. I alone have spent over 100 hours in the tree stand this year trying to put some antlers on the ground. As hunting goes, some things happened and we just couldn’t close the deal. This year we intend on planting about 3 acres of forage soybeans, but we want some short greens next to the beans closer to our stand set ups. This way we have an area for shots. We are avid bow hunters. What greens would you recommend?

Curtis

Check out the current episode at http://www.GrowingDeer.tv (Watch GDTV 215 here) – you’ll see several bucks gorging on Eagle Seed’s Broadside blend and my dad tagging a buck! I tagged several deer this year by placing stands so I could hunt food plots planted with Broadside. The blend of forage varieties in that blend has worked VERY well for me! May you be blessed with some great hunts during 2014!

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Can you plant soybeans without a drill?

Question
Dr. Woods, I am an admiring fan of you and your family shows. My question is, can you plant soybeans any other way than with a drill and still be successful? I only have a 60 acre lease with an acre plot, which is all I’m allowed to plant under my lease. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

James

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Soybeans can be planted successfully by preparing the soil (working it with a disk, tiller, etc.) and then broadcasting the seed (I often use a hand spreader) and then covering the seed by using some fencing, logs, etc., to drag the soil. I usually plant about 20% more seed than normal when using this method as some seed won’t be covered and birds, squirrels, etc., will consume a portion. Planting just before a rain usually produces the best results. I wish you well with this project!

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What causes a buck’s antlers to shed?

Question

First off I would like to tell you how much I like what your are doing on your website and videos. Also, I have caught some interviews with Christian Berg from Petersen’s Bowhunting. Most recently with Korby Taylor, truly great stuff, I really enjoy listening to you. I have an interesting question about antler drop. I live in a unique state for whitetail (Florida). We have the most diverse rut in the US. In fact in Polk County (where I lease) we have yet to have breeding take place (based on the fawn births), while other areas have long since completed. My question is antler drop. My deer rub off the velvet in the 1st week of October. Breeding takes place in……mid/late February. There are already areas in the state (south and north of me 60 miles) that already bred, and have just dropped. I have pics from bucks (most recent was 2 weeks ago) with their antlers. The loooong winded question……what determines the drop in a “normal” non-stressed environment? End of breeding? A set time (i.e. 90 days)? I never thought much about it until now. I am also wondering, can and will they breed (primary phase) well after they drop? Thanks for any time and answers you may provide.

Sincerely, Bo

I agree – Florida is unique! Antler drop is a function of increasing day length and decreasing testosterone. The increasing day length is like a starter cue. This sets the process in action. However, bucks will hold antlers as long as their testosterone is above a threshold. Bucks that get injured, etc., often drop much earlier than healthy bucks. The rate of day length increase is close to the same throughout Florida – but the testosterone levels very significantly as does are mostly bred in some areas and haven’t started becoming receptive in other areas. No one (that I’m aware) fully understands why deer follow the breeding patterns they do in Florida.

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What happened to this buck?

Question
I shot an 8 point buck on day 2 of Missouri’s deer season. He was a 3 year old, I think. The buck’s testes were the size of a peanut shell. Past deer, and even smaller deer, had much bigger testes. I’m wondering if this deer could even breed. What could have happened? He also had a swollen lower left leg but his rack was normal. Thanks for any feedback.  Jeff 

Congrats on harvesting a mature buck! It sounds as if the buck has been injured. Bucks with messed up testes almost always have a deformed/non-typical rack. I suspect he was injured after he shed his velvet and before you harvested him.

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What should we do to improve the hunting and food plots on our small farm in Wisconsin?

Question
I have a few questions. I manage a small parcel of land, 24 acres to be exact, but hunting in our area was tough due to a few factors this year. Now that the season here in Wisconsin is all but over with the bitter cold setting in, I am evaluating my season and all my camera photos to set a new plan for next year and would like your advice or input. My first question is: We have a smaller ag field on the property that a farmer plants in corn for us and I plant the outer edges in food plots. This year I got some more equipment and am looking to plant the whole 4 acres of food plots myself. Would it be best to plant half in an annual like brassicas and half in a mix of clovers and wheat or would it be best to plant one species in the whole field? The land is surrounded by production agriculture with over 100 acres of corn and alfalfa each within a quarter mile. Our land has a hilltop hardwood ridge between two large cedar swamps. The next question is: One of the farms that borders our land is a factory type farm and employs crop damage tags to harvest a ton of deer. I like the fact of the intense doe harvest before and during hunting season but it made it tough from early October to mid December as the deer went total nocturnal and seemed to vanish. I thought it was over hunting of our small parcel but it was a regional problem as we ended up the season with two deer, a nice 9 point and a yearling buck (my wife’s first deer). During the firearms season out of a total of 25 people and around 3000 acres of land we did the best. No one saw much of anything buck wise and very few does were sighted, it was not just eyes – all game cameras went dead too like the deer just vanished. Any advice on how to deal with this problem or hurdle? We only access two stand sites to hunt the property and unless working on timber management or food plots we never walk in swamp land or any areas that are known bedding areas. Thanks for your time. Have a blessed new year and I look forward to 52 new episodes of the show, I can’t wait every week to see what is next.

Kyle, congrats on your previous successes and thanks for your support! As a fellow Wisconsinite I understand the frustrations that go along with tremendous fluctuations in local deer herd numbers across the state. Not sure where you are at exactly, but I see a lot more deer in SE WI than in N WI, and for some obvious reasons…food, predators, and hunter numbers. We could talk all day about WI deer management, but I’ll choose to save that for another day. Your first question was how you should go about planting the large (4 acre) ag field. My answer would be to experiment. Since the property is surrounded by ag, I would expect little over browsing during the early fall. Thus, I love the thought of providing a smorgasbord of quality forage types in your food plots. The majority should still be planted with grains because my guess is the surrounding farmers till the fields after harvest. Try out a pattern like this: 2 acres of corn, 1 acre of soybeans, ½ acre Broadside (great mixture of brassicas, winter wheat and soybeans made by Eagle Seed), and ½ acre of clover. This will be a great way to view what the deer are preferring to eat during different times of the year. Monitor from an observation stand or time lapse mode on trail cams and hunt based upon what you are seeing. Your second question may be a tough hurdle. From your description it sounds as though the deer numbers are low in your area and the factory farm shoots every doe they can. Tough scenario to deal with because you can’t really blame the farmers for using their ag tags because the crop is their moneymaker. Also, shooting at them with rifles will turn them nocturnal. Maybe you could ask if you would be able to fill their ag tags with the use of a bow before season? Could be a win win. You get to hunt and the deer get shot at less, and eventually learn it is safe to feed during the day again. I hope these suggestions help. Hunt safe!

— Andrew Gall, GrowingDeer.tv

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How should I plant this food plot?

Question
Hello, I planted Eagle Seed beans on a 3 acre food plot this season and had great success. However, my dad and brother have been complaining that the beans are too tall. The major difference between them and I though is my first love is archery and they primarily gun hunt. The beans are perfect in my eyes by adding a huge food source and adding amazing cover but that also means that they are not able to shoot as far as they want into the beans. Would you suggest any pattern or plant changes within the plot to add windows of opportunity? I planted about an acre of Broadside on the other side of the creek with great success. Would it be beneficial to save a lane through the heart of the plot to plant Broadside when it gets closer to fall and lose that extra bean production? The average numbers of deer hitting the plots with this cold front is 25-30 on an evening sit. This is up from previous years due to the amount of groceries I’ve added.

Thanks for your help,

Brett

Would you rotate and plant beans to the food plot on the “other side of the creek”? I would consider planting all beans to provide the summer forage and then mow a strip in the center of the larger field about August and plant Broadside. This seems the best way to have your cake and eat it also. Or consider an elevated blind like I use to hunt the Eagle Seed beans and allow your Dad and brother an advantage!

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Have you ever tried Milorganite to protect your food plots?

Question

Have you ever tried Milorganite to protect your soybeans or other plants from deer, when they are first sprouting up?

John

I remember years ago when the University of Georgia tried Milorganite in some experiments. It did seem to keep deer from browsing for a few days. I use an all natural fertilizer called Antler Dirt. It seems to do the same, but has a very high organic matter content. You can learn more about Antler Dirt at http://www.AntlerDirt.com. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

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How much of your land have you turned into food plots?

Question

Hey, I was wondering how many acres of land you own? How much of it have you turned into food plots?

Thanks,

John

Tracy and I have about 1,500 acres. We have about 60 acres of food plots. We’d like more but the land is so rough that there’s not many more acres that are flat enough so the tractor won’t turn over – literally!  You can read more about Our Place by clicking here.

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What food plot crop can I plant to attract deer during bow season?

Question

For the past several years I have been planting Eagle Seed Beans.  It is a great crop and brings in plenty of deer in the late season, after our deer season. What can I plant to get them in the food plot during bow season, October and November?

Thank you,

Frank

Deer are picky eaters! Their preferred foods are based on what else is available at that location and time. What are the deer eating at your place between when they are focused on the soybean forage during the summer/early fall and the pods during the late winter? Do you hunt/plant in an area where there are lots of acorns? I live and hunt where there are lots of acorns. I plant Eagle Seed Broadside blend during August and deer are readily attracted to it until the acorns are present everywhere. Deer tend to abandon all my food plot crops while there are plenty of acorns and then return to the plots when the acorns become less abundant.

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Will setting and checking traps scare deer away?

Question
I was wondering about trapping around the area where I deer hunt. My worry is that I will run the deer out by driving to check traps daily. Will that happen?

Kasey

I set traps very close to the private roads inside my property. Deer are conditioned and accept me driving these roads. I believe the benefits for trapping far outweigh any negative impacts. Unless vehicles are rare on the property where you hunt I doubt it will have a negative impact or alert the herd if you locate the traps close to the roads and obviously avoid food plots, etc. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

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How to conduct a trail camera deer survey in Illinois without attractants?

Question

I was wandering how you would conduct a trail camera deer survey without using any attractants? Here in Illinois we are not allowed to use any attractants so I was wandering what tool you would use on a survey.

Thanks,

Austin

It’s tough to get an accurate survey in Illinois due to the no attractants regulations. I put cameras on trails and scrapes (licking branches before season) and know the survey won’t be as accurate as if I was using an attractant. I simply look for areas where deer will frequent and do the best I can. I hope you have a great hunting season!

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Is there an alternative to no-till drilling food plots?

Question

Is there any method to mimic no-till drilling? We are thinking of spreading Antler Dirt, then broadcast our seed and then cover it with hay. Would this work?. We don’t yet have the funds for a no-till drill or for a tractor at this time. Like you, our land is rugged and rocky. Thanks for your input.

Matthew

One problem with spreading hay is you will likely spread weed and/or grass seed that you don’t want in your plot. I think in your case it will be less expensive and produce better results to simply spread more seed (to compensate for a lower germination rate) and hopefully spread the seed just before or during a rain. This works great for small seeds like clover, turnips, etc. It works good with wheat. It doesn’t work as well with soybeans and other larger sized seeds. This may mean focusing on planting forage that has smaller sized seed – not a bad program! Rain helps cover the seed by splashing dirt on the seed and burying the seed. It also allows the seed to germinate quickly so rodents and birds don’t consume the seed.

Best,

Grant

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Clover food plot maintenance: mow or don’t mow?

Question

I was watching your video on clover plots (GDTV #187). What is your recommendation on mowing? There are some that say mow and some that say don’t mow. If the plot is clean and growing good should you mow it especially if the clover is well over knee high? Is there a nutritional difference in the new young clover verses the mature clover?

Thanks,

Rob

Rob,

Yes, new growth is almost always more nutritious. That’s one advantage to mowing. However, mowing causes the crop much stress – so don’t mow if it’s dry and the crop is already showing signs of stress, etc. I also don’t mow if I wish to increase the number of plants in the stand and need the existing clover to produce seeds.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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When is the best time to plant winter wheat in a food plot?

Question
I live in southern Indiana.Is it better to plant winter wheat early in September or toward the end of September into October? Also, can you do a burndown with glyphosate and then broadcast the wheat two weeks later right before some rain? Or do you have to work the ground up?

Wheat can be planted during a wide range of dates. The best time to plant depends on the mission. If there are lots of early season food sources in the area, then it may be better to plant wheat later (mid to late September) so it doesn’t mature past being palatable before deer start using it as a food source. I usually begin planting wheat during early to mid August depending on when soil moisture is available so the forage will be available and attracting deer by the opening of bow season – September 15th – as there isn’t any competing food sources in my neighborhood. Wheat seed, like all crops, needs good seed to soil contact. The existing vegetation can be burned down with glyphosate, but the seed needs to be placed in the soil with a no-till drill or the weed duff removed so the seeds will reach the soil.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What do I do now for my clover food plot?

Question

Thanks for the Monday morning videos. I have loved these for quite some time. Also, thank you for taking a positive stand on the Creator. I HAD a picture perfect crimson clover food plot 6 weeks ago. It fed the deer through the winter and was beautiful this spring. I went back this past week and the native grasses were 18 inches tall and completely blocking out the clover. The grasses are deep green in this area which tells me the clover is still there adding nitrogen to the soil. I think the grass is fescue. What do I do now?

Thanks,

Bob

Bob,

Thanks for the encouraging words! Crimson clover is a winter annual where you and I live – and has about finished its productive season by this time of year in the Ozarks (depending on precipitation amounts). I agree with your observations that the fescue is using the nitrogen provided by the crimson clover and doing well. If the crimson clover is all brown and made a hard seed already, then I would spray the fescue with glyphosate (generic Roundup) to control the fescue before it gets too tall. Once fescue is more than one foot tall it’s tough to control. You could use a grass specific herbicide like Clethodim, Select, Poast, etc., but those herbicides cost more and are not as effect as glyphosate at controlling fescue. If you do control/kill the fescue I’d plant a mixture of brassica, wheat, and radishes in the plot this fall about 60 days before the first expected frost. If the crimson clover has already made a hard seed, those seeds will germinate this fall/next spring and result in another great crop of clover for the early growing season!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What products do you use to spray grass in clover food plots?

Question

I watched the latest video on clover food plots (GDTV #187) and I am wanting to know what products you use to spray grass in clover. I am having trouble understanding how to mix the herbicide. I usually spray our field with a 3 gallon backpack sprayer. I try to spray them around the end of May to the first of June (our farm is in southern Tennessee). I usually spray post but I don’t quite remember how I mixed it last year. Any help would be much appreciated!

Drew

Drew,

I use Clethodim to control grass in clover. I follow all instructions on the label, including using a non-ionic surfactant. Clethodim – like most grass-specific herbicides work best when applied when the grass is 4-8″ tall. For the best results, following the instructions on the label! Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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What is the best food plot mix to plant in a shady location?

Question

I really like your site and the information your team provides. I have read your food plot information but have a question for you. My hunt club is 400 acres. We have about 16 small food plots. A few food plots are around 7,500 square feet and the majority are around 1,200 square feet. Most are clover mixes and some brassica. I have a private area that has a good bit of pines around it. It is somewhat shady. It is about 1,200 square feet for a possible food plot. With the shade/filtered light what do you recommend as the best type of food source to plant here? I want it to be very active during hunting season. It is located in north Georgia.

Thanks for the help,

Peter

I find hidey holes (small plots off the beaten trail) great locations to kill mature bucks! 1,200 square feet is about 3/100 of an acre. Hence, it needs to be a browse tolerant forage, or time the planting/hunting closely so deer don’t consume all the forage before there are good conditions to hunt! White clover is fairly shade and browse tolerant. I suggest making sure all weed competition is removed (using herbicide or tillage) and heavily fertilize the area. Fertilizer will accomplish two goals including making the forage more palatable than other food sources and allowing the forage to continue growing even if there are lots of deer eating at the plot. Another great tool is a Hot Zone electric fence (you may have seen them used on GrowingDeer.tv). These solar powered fences keep deer out until you wish to hunt, then you can create a gap in the fence that funnels deer into a good shooting position.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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Is prescribed fire good for hardwoods?

Question
I really enjoy your weekly show. I spend all of my free time doing the same things on our family property along the Red River near Shreveport,Louisiana. We have some mature/thin/no cover bottomland hardwoods that I would like to improve. I see that you burn your hardwoods a lot but all of the forestry guys around here say that burning hardwoods is bad practice because it makes trees susceptible to disease. I would also like to burn/improve cover in the cottonwood/willow dominant woods along the river bank. It seems like cottonwood leaves suppress understory terribly. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Clay

Thank you for the kind words and for watching GrowingDeer.tv! I’m a huge fan of using prescribed fire. However, prescribed fire under a closed canopy – where limited sun is reaching the forest floor – won’t result in much growth of forbs or grasses. Oaks and some other hardwoods are fire adapted and low intensity fire rarely results in much damage to the trees. However, fire can damage cottonwoods and willows.  It’s best to define the mission and then learn what tools/techniques are appropriate for that mission.

Thanks again!

Grant

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What software do you use to manage your deer observations and camera images?

Question

What software do you use to manage your deer observations and camera images? Reconyx has some great software to manage deer camera images but I’d like something that also integrates all my deer hunt observation data. Also, I’m trying to purchase another 150 acres adjacent to my current 600 acres up in central Wisconsin. If successful, I’d be interested in discussing having you conduct a property evaluation analysis.

Best,

Jim

I do use the Reconyx software to manage all our trail camera data. I use ScoutLook to manage my hunting observation data – it’s by far the best system/program I or my clients have used to manage hunting observation and harvest data.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How will the recent cold weather impact the spring turkey hatch?

Question

First EHD, now the cold spring weather……I wish we could get back to normal on the weather front!! Anyway, based on the late spring and the cold weather and snow this past week, do you think that will impact the turkey hatch this spring? Thanks!

Dean

I doubt many eggs have hatched yet – so the weather that determines that success is yet to come. Turkeys smell a lot when wet and predators can easily follow hens to the nest – called the wet hen theory by Mississippi State – but it’s not a theory any more. I am sure many hens were killed on the nest last week.

Growing Deer (and turkeys) together,

Grant

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How do you prepare the Duke traps for trapping?

Question

I am very much interested in trapping raccoons. I have purchased a half dozen Duke dog proof coon traps to start, as per your videos. I have been to several web sites looking for trapping information on how to prep the traps and have come away confused. The last video with the pro trapper on trapping coyotes and bobcats was great and gave me more info on the sets but not on prepping the trap and tie-down cables, etc. This is where I lack the most knowledge. Any recommended reading? I’ve searched your FAQ, etc. but have not found what I’m looking for. Thank you for your help and I continue to enjoy all your video postings.

Thanks again,

Charles

I either use rebar to stake down my Duke DP traps or use a D loop (buy at Lowes, etc.) and some 1/8″ cable with fastened loops at both ends. I place the cable around a tree and through one loop and then fasten the loop to the chain on the DP trap with the D Loop. This is quicker and easier than driving stakes. The D Loop is a quick link that screws closed. The snap closed links will open if a critter or the cable hits them right. How the cables are made isn’t as important as insuring they will hold the critter when they tug. You may wish to view past episodes about trapping by looking in our archives.  Go to this link and page down and on the left you will see a Trapping section. In those episodes I think you’ll find all the info you are seeking.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

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What food plot seed would you recommend for around Ontario, Canada?

Question

I have been a long time follower of your site. If you had only a small amount of area to prepare for a winter feed plot, say 1/2 to 1 acre, would you plant it in soybeans or would a turnip brassica blend be more beneficial? I live in Ontario, Canada. We can have winter from mid November to early March. Soil conditions are ok for either forage – just wondering on your advice.

Thanks,

Darren

If your primary concern is to attract deer during the fall and provide quality forage during that season, I’d probably go with a turnip/brassica blend. This is especially true if there are a lot of deer in the area. A few deer can limit the pod production potential of soybeans in a 1/2 acre plot. Therefore, planting soybeans in that plot is a bit of a gamble. However the risk is limited as it’s easy to broadcast brassicas into heavily browsed beans about 45 days before the first frost – so a combo may be best! Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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How much protein does a deer need and use?

Question

I have a question that I need your advice concerning maximum protein utilization requirements for whitetails. Does a deer have a % limit that can be metabolized and any amount over that provides no benefit? In other words if a deer has access to nutrients of 30 % + protein can it all be beneficial/utilized for physical development regardless of sex or age? Please share your thoughts with me on this topic if my question makes sense. Where do you get these answers to learn more about this topic? I sure enjoy your info on GrowingDeer.tv!!

Harrison

Harrison,

To my knowledge, Cargill (huge feed company that researches and sells to the whitetail market under the brand Sportsmen Choice) has the largest whitetail nutrition research program. There is lots of good information on their website.

Grant

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Do you have a month to month list of things I can do to help the wildlife?

Question

I have 40 acres in Rosebud, MO where nothing has been touched. It has just all grown up right now. Is there anything I can do in January and February to help the wildlife? Do you have a month to month list of things I can do to help the wildlife? I am wanting to start doing some food plots and some timber management in 2013 and any help would be deeply appreciated; this is my first time.

Thanks,

Ed

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! I would make sure I have plenty of Trophy Rock (60+ trace minerals) out during January. I want it out year round. I tend to create new hidey hole food plots and stand sites at this time also. There are no ticks and the woods are open so visibility is better! We produce a new show each week and all the past shows (160+) are available online. So can easily see what we are doing each week. Thanks again and best of luck with your habitat work!

Grant

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What food plot seed would you recommend for hunting over in October to November?

Question

I would like to put together some food plots in the area I hunt. This area has some pretty harsh winters and the deer migrate out of the area to large cedar swamps for the winter. Is there a seed conglomerate that you would suggest to plant for hunting purposes (Oct/Nov) that matures best before the deer exit the area (Dec)?

Thanks,

Gary

I like a blend of radishes, turnips, and forage brassicas. I like to plant them at least 45 days (preferably more) before the first expected frost.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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What is the best food plot plants that are at a decent price?

Question

My parents and I would like to find some property this summer that we can have our ranch on and use for hunting. My question to you is, what is the best food plot plants that are at a decent price that you would recommend for the Caulfield area of Missouri?

Thank you for your time,

Edward

Edward,

The Eagle Seed soybeans give the most tonnage of high quality forage per dollar and effort. Several university studies have evaluated the forage quality and quantity of Eagle Seed forage soybeans. Remember to have a soil test and lime and fertilize appropriatly as all forages need good growing conditions to express their potential.

Grant

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Could I use a raccoon carcass to attract other predators to my trap line?

Question

I am a believer in recycling and using every part possible in the game I harvest. I recently trapped a big male raccoon and was wondering if I could use the carcass to attract other predators and if so what kind of set would be best? I know that coyotes will eat muskrats and groundhogs but those aren’t vegetarians.

Thank you,

Ryan

Ryan,

Yes, other predators are certainly attracted to the carcasses from your trap line! It seems most prefer bobcat – but will come to raccoon carcasses, etc.

Good trapping!

Grant

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What should I plant in the small, shady food plot at my hunt club?

Question

I really like your site and the information your team provides. I have read your food plot information but have a question for you. My hunt club is 400 acres. We have about 16 small food plots. A few that are around 7,500 square feet and the majority are around 1,200 square feet. Most are clover mixes and some brassica. I have a private area that has a good bit of pines around it. It is  somewhat shady. It is about 1,200 square feet of possible food plot. With the shade/filtered light what do you recommend as the best type of food source to plant here? I want it to be very active during hunting season. It is located in north Georgia.

Thanks for the help,

Peter

Peter,

I find hidey holes (small plots off the beaten trail) great locations to kill mature bucks! 1,200 sq feet is about 3/100 of an acre. Hence, it needs to be a browse tolerant forage, or you must time the planting/hunting closely so deer don’t consume all the forage before there are good conditions to hunt! White clover is fairly shade and browse tolerant. I suggest making sure all weed competition is removed (using herbicide or tillage) and heavily fertilize the area. Fertilizer will accomplish two goals including making the forage more palatable than other food sources and allowing the forage to continue growing even if there is a lot of deer eating at the plot. Another great tool is a Hot Zone electric fence (you may have seen them used on GrowingDeer.tv). These solar powered fences keep deer out until you wish to hunt, then you can create a gap in the fence that funnels deer into a good shooting position.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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Why do southern Missouri oaks bear more frequently?

Question

Why do southern Missouri oaks bear more frequently and heavier crops than oaks in northern Missouri? It obviously isn’t soil quality. Do you think it might be minerals that are more readily available in the Ozark rock? The white oaks and swamp white oaks bear very infrequently in spite of releasing them with chain saws and even fertilizing. These oaks range from 20 to 100 years old. The only oaks to bear a decent crop are pin oaks.

Thanks in advance,

Ron

Ron,

I suspect it’s due to later frost dates in the north. Oaks produce flowers and the flowers make acorns. If the flowers are damaged by frost, they won’t mature into acorns.

Grant

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Which food plot variety is the best for hunting purposes?

Question

I would like to put together some food plots in the area I hunt. This area has some pretty harsh winters and the deer migrate out of the area to large cedar swamps for the winter. Is there a seed conglomerate that you would suggest to plant for hunting purposes (Oct./Nov.) that matures best before the deer exit the area (Dec.)?

Gary

Gary,

I like a blend of radishes, turnips, and forage brassicas. I like to plant them at least 45 days (preferably more) before the first expected frost.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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What Are The Signs Of Chronic Wasting Disease?

Question

Tomorrow is the opening day for section 4E tomorrow in PA for the firearm season. I read that the disease is starting to spread into PA. What signs can I look for in deer when they are on the hoof and after I shoot one? If I see one that shows symptoms of it should I shoot it? What should I do with it if I do get one that has it, worst case scenario?

Thank You,

Logan

Logan,

The incidence rate of CWD will be very low in your area. The odds of you seeing or harvesting a deer with CWD are extremely low. I compliment you for desiring to be prepared! The best information about CWD can be found at the link here.

Deer in the early stages of CWD show no overt signs. They appear normal. Deer often incubate CWD for years. Deer that are closer to dying with CWD appear droopy, weak, not alert, etc. They will appear sick. Such deer (whether harvested or not) should be immediately reported to the local game and fish department. If you harvest such a deer, submit it to the local game and fish for testing.

CWD has never been shown to be transmitted to humans – NEVER. However, it’s always smart to wear gloves with dressing deer and not cut through the spinal column or other areas of the primary nervous system. I usually simply debone deer.

Don’t let the news scare you about CWD – check the link I shared and enjoy hunting!

Grant

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Do You Have Any Tips For Hunting After The Rut?

Question

Awesome videos! Do you have any tips for hunting after the rut?

Benjamin

I prefer to hunt food sources after the rut. It is best to hunt food sources where mature bucks haven’t been recently alerted. Bucks have been hunted for months now in most areas and are extremely cautious. If such food sources are available in your area, my next preferred location is on the edge of bedding areas.

Good hunting!

Grant

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Jumping Deer?

Question

The property I hunt on is not easy to get into areas where deer are without jumping some. It is a small track of 100 acres. I am not allowed to cut anything on the property like another road or paths. I was wondering by jumping the deer going in does it make then less likely to come back? I usually see deer but it is more midday after jumping some in the early light or dark. Do you have suggestions for getting in and out of places like this as well? Thanks for your help and enjoy the show.

David

David,

Most likely the deer you are jumping (alerting) during entry are at minimum going to be tougher to hunt – if they return by your stand. I’d probably try walking the very edge of the property and then cutting into your stand. This will likely be a longer walk – but will result in more deer encounters. I’d walk the edge that is most favorable from a wind direction. If you jump deer in the same location – I’d find a path that goes around (down wind) that area.

I hope this helps!

Grant

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Barbed Wire Fencing For Food Plots?

Question

I enjoy all the great information you provide on managing your deer herd and managing the land in general. I do have a specific question regarding barbed wire fences: is there a specific height the lowest strand should be to allow fawns to enter my food plots? I manage about 500 acres and the perimeter is not fenced. Therefore, I must fence off my plots from the surrounding landowners occasional free range cattle.

Thanks again for all the useful information.

Denton

Denton,

Folks in Texas commonly use solar powered electric fences to exclude cattle and allow deer access to plots. They typically use one strand about 20″ above the ground. However, if calves are present, two strands at 12″ and 24″ may be necessary. The best value in solar powered fences I’ve found is the Non-Typical Electric Fence. I use this to keep deer from over browsing small plots until I have time to hunt. Simply don’t use the outside strand and deer will readily use the plot while keeping cattle out.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Grant

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Local Information and Help With Prescribed Fire?

Question

I hunt in western Illinois in a small town called Amboy. The 25 acre woods that I hunt is VERY thick and I was thinking about the prescribed fire that you always talk about. I’m not sure where to start with it or who I would contact about helping with it. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

Dan,

You are wise to seek counsel about burning before using that tool! I’ve never burned in Illinois – and am not sure what resources are available for private land there. Most states have a Forestry Commission (name varies a little state to state). They usually offer prescribed burn classes, workshops, and some states offer assistance.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Should I Plant in My Food Plot?

Question
What Should I Plant in My Food Plot?

This is the most frequently asked question I receive. However, it’s like asking what aircraft I use. I use a helicopter to count deer in the brush country of South Texas. However, a jet works much better to get me to clients’ properties in distant portions of the whitetails’ range. Both aircraft work, but are much better suited for different missions. Similarly many varieties of food plot crops will grow in different areas. However, specific crops should be selected based on a site-specific basis depending on the mission of plot, the soil type of the plot, budget, etc.  Throughout the year, the Growing Deer Team will frequently show and discuss what crops they use to establish specific food plots for specific missions (warm season, cool season, attractant, nutrition). As an example, I use forage soybeans from Eagle Seed for the last few years in plots where the mission is maximum warm season forage with great success. I use a different crop for small, attractant or cool season plots. My best advice to you in this limited space is to research several options and continue to watch here for more shows and tips on this exact subject!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Skin Growth Identification

 

Question
Grant,

I checked my trail camera this morning and found a video of a buck with a black ball hanging from its jaw area. Do you have any idea what it might be?

On another note, I really enjoy GrowingDeer.tv!

Thanks!

Jared

 

 

Jared,

Thanks for the kind words and for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

I suspect the “ball” on the buck is a fibroma that has become detached from the skin.  You may wish to check out the information online at The Mississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries and Parks website.

If the deer is harvested and you find out something different, please let me know.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cover Crop near Public Road

Question
I watched one of your videos about the soybeans that get very tall (4′ to 6′).  What type of beans are these and where can they be purchased?  My property isn’t very big and is almost all open next to a town road.  Currently I plant normal beans surrounded by corn.  I would like to get my hands on these beans so I don’t have to plant corn around the edges all the time.

Thanks,

Michael

Michael,

The forage soybeans I referenced are produced by Eagle Seed.  It is a family owned business, and that family has been selecting soybean traits for literally 40+ years.

However, I’m not sure you should plant the Eagle forage soybeans within sight of a public road.  Deer find the Eagle Seed soybean forage and pods very attractive.  I suspect that may make the deer more visible — at least the corn provides some cover.  This is especially true during the early growth stages when the soybeans are 4’+ tall.

A cover crop that I frequently recommend for similar situations is Switchgrass.  Switchgrass provides great bedding/escape cover and typically stands all winter (even through snow and ice).  I plant it next to public roads so poachers can’t see and don’t wish to walk through it.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What data should be collected while deer hunting?

Question
I just purchased your book, “Deer Management 101: Manage Your Way to Better Hunting”, and I’m reading it at this time.  You mention keeping a log or journal.  I have been keeping a hunting/work journal for years.  I never seem to have all the information I need on my journal pages.  When you are gathering information on your property what are the main things you record?  Thanks for all the great information you provide.

Ron

Ron,

I record the date, start and stop time of each hunt (morning and afternoon).  I record the time in military style so morning and afternoon are never confused.  I also record where I hunt based on a grid system, I don’t use stand names as stand names change from time to time.  I also record the number of bucks, does, fawns, and unidentified deer observed.  I differentiate between antlered bucks and male fawns.  I also am very careful to never assume!  If I can’t positively identify the deer, I list it as an unidentified.  Typically about 30% of the deer I observe are listed as unidentified.

I don’t record moon phase, temperature, etc,. as all of those data are available from the Nation Weather Service.  I find the basic information, such as I described above, is more useful than detailed information that doesn’t allow me to see the big picture.  On some of my research projects where I’m attempting to address specific questions, my staff and I collect additional data.

In addition to observation data, I collect harvest data (age, body weights, etc.).  I’m a huge fan of using trail camera surveys to monitor a herd’s population demographics.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Can corn be planted in the same food plot over multiple years?

Question
Grant,

I know from watching your video that you don’t recommend it…but is it possible to grow corn on corn each year?  Based on my property layout corn is the only crop that I can grow other than sorghum or Egyptian wheat that will provide food and screening from neighbors.  The area I’m thinking of is also a powerline easement that lies in a valley.  I was talking to local farmers and my local co-op and was told the only effect was a decreased yield.

Thanks.

Garry

Garry,

Food plot crop rotation is an excellent practice.  However, it is possible to plant corn in the same location multiple years in a row.  However, there is a much better chance of allowing the population of pests specific to that crop to increase significantly as their cycle is never broken by rotation crops.  In addition, different crops usually remove different micronutrients from the soil.  By growing the same crop at the same site year after year this will usually result in depletion of that micro nutrient.

Another consideration is if there is more corn being produced than the critters eat?  If so, it’s likely that deer in the local herd are not expressing their full antler or fawn production potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best way to kill weeds and grass in food plots?

Question
I have a field that has not been planted in 8+ years.  It is now overgrown with weeds and grass as it is only cut once each summer.  What is a good weed and grass killer that is available to the general public that would still allow me to plant something this spring?

Larry

Larry,

Depending on the species of weeds, Glyphosate (the chemical name of Roundup) is probably the best option.  It usually works best if you use fire first to remove the duff (dead plant material) from the field (check out GDTV 20 for an overview of prescribed fire).  This allows the herbicide to make better contact with the fresh vegetation that will grow after the burn.  If a burn is not an option, mowing or even disking is the next best option.  No matter what option you select for preparation, it’s important to remember that Glyphosate is most effective when the new growth is relatively young and there is enough leaf surface area for the herbicide to make good contact with the plant.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What type of soybean and clover are best for whitetail food plots?

Question
Hi Grant,

I love the show and everything you do to help hunters and wildlife managers with our way of life.  What is your favorite type of Eagle Seed bean? I used Eagle Seed Wildlife Managers Mix last year and it work great.  I was wondering which type has the best browsing tolerance and which type produces the most pods?

What is your favorite clover type?  I am trying to figure out what would work best in my area, after a proper soil test and working the ground as needed.

What do you think would be the best fruit trees to plant for the deer?  I started about ten trees (mostly apple with a few pear trees) a couple years ago.

Thank you for your time and help in getting me and others on the right track.

God Bless,

Chad (central Pennsylvania)

Chad,

Thank you for your kind words!  There is a very detailed explanation of each variety of Eagle Seed beans on their website.  I use both Large Lad and Big Fellow per the recommendations on their site.  There are several good varieties of both white and red clovers.  I like clover varieties that put more energy into producing forage than stems.

Deer usually readily use the fruit from both apple and pear trees.  In fact, they readily consume most fruit that they have had experience consuming in the past.  Deer often take some time to learn to eat cultivars of fruit that they haven’t been exposed to previously.  However, by using different varieties of fruit, the tree plot may remain productive and attractive longer than when limiting the cultivars to apples and pears.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broadhead Selection

 

Question
I’m a new bow hunter from Kentucky.  I just started bow hunting this year, I’m only 11 years old.  I don’t know too much about it.  What would be the best broadhead to deer hunt with?  I just bought some Rage SlipCam Rear Deploying Broadheads and I don’t know if they are very good or not. This year I used Muzzy Broadheads and I liked them.

Colton

 

 

Colton,

There are many great broadheads on the market!  I prefer a fixed-blade design so the chance of failure is minimal.  More importantly, I insist that the broadheads I use are literally shaving sharp.  Broadheads kill deer by causing rapid blood loss.  Dull broadheads cause more trauma to deer and therefore deer instantly secrete a hormone that causes blood to clot.  Deer are much less likely to secrete this hormone when hit by a razor sharp broadhead.  To illustrate, think about how much you bleed when you hit your finger with a hammer (not much) versus how much you bleed from a simple paper cut.  Paper cuts don’t cause trauma — so our bodies don’t release the clotting hormone.

I shoot a Blackout Fixed-Blade Broadhead from Bass Pro.  I had great results on multiple mature bucks using that head last year (GDTV 45).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Crop Selection for Sandy Soil

Question
Hi Grant,

I recently purchased 40 acres in western Michigan and want to plant crops that will attract deer and enhance antler growth.  The land is sandy and mostly covered by pines and oaks.  However 3 to 4 acres are tree free. Would you recommend any particular nutrients and crops that I could plant in the tree free area that would help me accomplish my goals?  Thank you for your help, and keep those great videos coming!

Pete

Pete,

Congratulations on owning your own Proving Grounds.  Crops are simply nutrient transfer agents that serve to transfer nutrients from the ground to the deer.  So the first step is to ensure there are ample nutrients in the soil by collecting a soil sample and having it analyzed at a good soil lab like Waters Ag.  Check out GDTV 71 for a refresher on how to properly collect and label a soil sample.

I prefer forage soybeans over other types of forage because they are relatively drought resistant, easy to establish and manage, and very nutritious to deer.  Few other crops produce quality forage throughout the entire growing season.  If you are far enough North, white clover works fairly well, but doesn’t usually do well in sandy soils and won’t produce nearly as much tonnage as Eagle Seed forage soybeans.

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv and the kind words!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best spring food plot mix for small plots that will attract deer and turkey?

Question
I want to plant some food plots in northern Arkansas in an area with very sandy soil.  What is the best spring food plot mix for small plots that are 1/4 to 1/2 acre in size?  I’m trying to attract deer and turkey.

Thank you,

Justin

Justin,

I would try Eagle Seed forage soybeans.  They handle droughty conditions as well as any forage crop I’ve tried.  However, if there are a lot of deer in the area, the forage soybeans might be severely browsed in the smaller sized plots.  I use a food plot fence to protect the soybeans until they mature a bit and can handle browse a bit better.

Remember that all forage plants are simply nutrient transfer agents.  That is to say if the nutrients aren’t in the soil, the plants can’t transfer them to the deer.  That’s why one of the most important steps in establishing a food plot is to collect a soil sample and have it analyzed at a reputable lab like Waters Ag.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in Food Plots

 

Question
In the recent frost seeding episode (GDTV 68) it was mentioned that only 5% of your food plots are planted in clover.  What is the breakdown of percentages for different plants in your food plots and what is the reasoning behind it?

Thanks

Dan

Dan,

I use prescribed fire, etc., to promote very good native vegetation at The Proving Grounds.  Most native vegetation is at peak production and palatability the same time clover is productive – during the spring green up period.  However, as the spring progresses and the temperatures warm and the amount of soil moisture decreases clover decreases in productivity and quality.  This time of year, soybeans usually provide much more tonnage and quality than clover.  So, I plant about 5% of my food plot acreage in clover and the remainder in soybeans and corn.  I usually plant 2/3rds of this acreage in soybeans and 1/3rd in corn as corn typically produces twice as much grain as soybeans.  This grain is critical to provide quality food during the winter or non-growing season months (again, when clover is unproductive).  Soybeans provide forage during the growing season and grain (their pods) during the non growing season, so they play a larger role in my deer food management program than corn.

Each property will have a different composition of native vegetation, neighboring ag fields, ratio of food plot acreage, etc.  However, the ratio of crops I described above is a good starting point that can be customized on a site-specific basis.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Critter was Trailing Deer

 

Question
While walking through the woods the other day I noticed “paw” prints inside the deer tracks.  They were inside the deer tracks and every so many feet they took a rest and then proceeded.  What type of animal would track this way?

Thanks,

Greg

 

 

Greg,

That’s an interesting observation!  There is no way to positively identify what species made the tracks without seeing an image or very good description of the tracks.  However, based on the limited information, I would guess a bobcat.  Bobcats tend to walk in a very narrow path with each step placed almost exactly in front of the other.  In addition, they often stop frequently.  There are several good web sites that help identify tracks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Where to Find Sheds

Question
Hey Grant,

In March there is still quite a bit of snow on the ground where I live.  I’ve looked for sheds my whole life but I have never found one.  Do the mice eat them as they fall or am I not looking in the right areas?  We have 250 acres and I look by our creek, under pines, up on ridges, near fence crossings, corn fields, even by rubs.  Do you have any tips to find a big shed?

Joe (Wisconsin)

Joe,

My wife, daughters, and I really enjoy shed hunting!  Through the years, we’ve learned to spend most of our time looking in areas where deer feed and bed during January through March.  We also search the travel zones between the feeding and bedding areas.  Rodents (squirrels and mice), coyotes and other critters will consume sheds.  However, they usually don’t consume the entire shed, especially the larger ones.  These critters tend to chew on the points and less on the main beams.  The biggest factor to finding sheds is the number of sheds in the area.  Therefore, in areas where a higher percentage of bucks from the herd are harvested each year, there will obviously be fewer sheds to find.  If you and your family are actively passing bucks on your land to allow them to mature, you should have a good opportunity to find some sheds!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Learning Curve for Deer

 

Question
Grant,

Last year we planted Eagle Seed soybeans with corn.  The deer browsed heavily on the bean leaves but they are not eating the beans.  The corn has disappeared but we are not sure which animals ate it.  It was probably birds.  Why didn’t the deer eat the soybeans?

Thanks,

Martin

 

 

 

Martin,

There are no agricultural row crops (soybeans or corn) in the county where The Proving Grounds (where I live) is located.  The first year I planted soybeans, deer didn’t consume the bean forage or pods.  However, some brave deer apparently took a bite the next year and it was obvious when the local herd learned to consume the forage and pods.  I don’t know if this is the situation in your area.  I would be surprised if the local herd has been exposed to soybeans and didn’t consume them on your property unless they had a strong association with danger and the food plot location.  I would recommend you plant Eagle Seed soybeans again and use a Reconyx trail camera to monitor usage.  Another great tool is a utilization cage.  The cage won’t provide data of which deer are using the plot, but will confirm if the soybeans that are growing outside the cage are being consumed versus the beans that are protected from consumption inside the cage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What food plot varieties work best in Louisiana?

Question
What would be a good seed to plant in the summer that would carry through deer season?  I live in Washington Parish, Louisiana and we have dry and wet summers.  I have found that clay peas work pretty well before the season.

Robbie

Robbie,

Eagle Seed forage soybeans have been shown by several universities to produce more tons of digestible, high quality forage than almost any other crop that deer prefer!  Deer consume the foliage during the summer and the bean pods during the winter.  It can truly be a 10 month per year crop!  However, deer find these soybeans so attractive, that small-sized plots can be over-browsed when the seedlings are young unless protected by an electric food plot fence.

The size of the plot that won’t need any protection depends on the number of deer in the area and the availability of other high quality foods.  If your food plot is large enough, I doubt you will find a better crop!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Encouraging Deer to Change Patterns

 

Question
I hunt a powerline out of a box ground blind.  The powerline runs downhill about 150 yards and uphill 450+ yards.  I have two feeders set up 150 and 200 yards from my box stand.  I keep seeing deer at the top of the hill 400+ yards away.  What can I do to get the deer to cross closer to my stand?  Should I put up a metal stand further up the hill?

I took three paper bags and a cup of washing powder and put it around at the top of the hill. The deer still came out at the same place.  The smell of washing powder had no effect.

Rob

 

 

 

Rob,

If you have permission to hunt the hilltop where the deer prefer to travel, I would place a stand within range of that location.  Remember that being able to approach and leave the stand without alerting deer is just as important as the stand’s location.

If you don’t have permission to hunt the hilltop where the deer prefer to travel, can you determine why deer frequent that hill?  Is there a preferred food source there or nearby?  Is it close to a bedding area?  If so, can you create a better source of food or cover closer to your existing stand?  Deer usually seek out the best habitat features within their home range.  It seems there is something on the hill they frequent that is the most preferred source in their neighborhood.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best hunting strategy for older, wiser, noctornal bucks?

Question
I have an awesome, huge, old, 10 point buck on our property (which has apple groves, a corn field, and food plots).  From the camera pictures he looks to be a 220 class.  His G2 is about 19″ long.  I have several trail cameras pictures where he appears between 11:00 PM and 5:40 AM.  I have strategically placed tree blinds but I don’t see him during shooting hours.  I know this is how he got so old and big but I’d really like to take him this year.  What should I do?

Michelle

Michelle,

That’s a huge buck and no doubt very mature.  There is lots of research that has shown some mature bucks rarely move during daylight hours.  This may be the behavior of the giant buck you are hunting.  I would attempt to limit human disturbance as much as possible to the area where you believe he is bedding and feeding.  I would only hunt this buck when conditions are favorable to the hunter (constant wind that favors the hunter, etc.).

Chances are you won’t see this buck much, so it’s critical that you are well practiced with your weapon of choice and all of your equipment is in perfect working order.  The personality of some bucks make them almost impossible to harvest as they are almost totally nocturnal, etc.  That’s okay, as the legendary bucks keep most of us inspired to keep hunting!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Spreading Lime by Hand

 

Question
In your video on frost seeding clover (GDTV 68), you show lime being distributed with a hand seeder.  Brad talks about a generic rate of 2 tons per acre.  How long does it take to spread that much lime using a hand seeder?

Doug

 

Doug,

I only spread lime on small plots (1/8th of an acre or so) by hand.  This still takes some time, but my spreader holds 50 pounds so I open the flow gauge up wide and spread each load quickly.  I think the effort is worth it as mature bucks readily use high quality forage in small plots that don’t receive much hunting pressure!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How do you attract deer to a trail camera site?

Question
Dear Grant,

What food should I put out for the deer?  I have a big trophy buck but I can’t get him to the camera.

Thanks,

Shelby

Shelby,

Deer seem to be attracted to whole shelled corn almost everywhere I work.  In fact, corn combined with a Trophy Rock is what I use to attract deer to camera sites when I do a camera survey for deer.  Even in areas where baiting is legal and mature bucks tend to avoid corn during the daytime because of hunting pressure, they visit the bait piles at night (a very good reason not to bait — as most deer rapidly learn to avoid bait during daytime).  If shelled corn doesn’t work, I suspect the buck you’re attempting to pattern has been conditioned to avoid bait.

I suggest you try a Trophy Rock, if legal in your area, or simply put the camera over scrapes.  During the few days just before the peak of breeding, bucks visit scrapes frequently.  Hence, scrapes can be a great location to capture images of a mature buck!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Maintain Apple Trees

 

Question
Hey Grant,

Our hunting property contains an abundance of apple and crabapple trees.  Over the past few years they have been growing larger and larger and producing fewer apples.  We have also seen a dramatic increase in the growth of pricker bushes and briars.  What is the best thing to do to allow the apples to grow?  Do deer like the prickers?  If not, is there a way to control them?

Dean

 

 

Dean,

Almost all apple trees should be pruned annually (during the dormant season).  They should be pruned significantly – enough that most folks squirm!  The specifics of how and how much to prune is very detailed.  The QDMA web site has some great articles about maintaining fruit trees.

Fruit trees are a crop, and benefit from being fertilized.  The blend and amount of fertilizer depends on the local soils and types of trees.

As I work throughout the whitetails’ range, I realize that different species of plants are often referred to by the same name.  So “prickers” could mean blackberries, hawthorns, multi-flora roses, hedge trees, etc.  However, in general deer may consume “prickers” during some portion of the year.  This is usually when the plants are young or have fresh growth during the early spring. The species you are referring to may be consumed by deer, but will not be enough to provide a high quality diet by itself.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How many trail cameras are needed to pattern whitetails?

Question
After watching your video about using cameras to pattern deer (GDTV 66), I am interested in how many acres your facility is and how many cameras you use to track the deer.  I really liked your example of deer movement patterns.  Can I, with a limited budget for cameras, produce the same results with one or two cameras?  Or did you have cameras at all the locations at the same time?

Keep up the good work!

Jeff

Jeff,

I like to use as many Reconyx trail cameras as practical given time and budget constraints.  The Proving Grounds (my place) is 1,500 acres and I try to use one camera per 100 acres when doing an official camera survey and I continue using them to scout with throughout the season.  Using rechargeable batteries has greatly reduced my operating costs!  I have other projects where we “leap frog” cameras as we don’t have a camera per 100 acres.  We get usable data, but not as good as using a camera per 100 acres simultaneously.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the size of the home range for white-tailed deer?

Question
Do deer stay within a 2 mile radius from where they are born?

I love your show!

Zack

Zack,

Some deer do stay within a few miles of where they were born and others move many miles.  There are several factors that determine if and how far a deer disperses from its place of birth.  Male fawns are usually forced to disperse from their mother’s home range.  If the doe dies before it is time for the male fawn to disperse, he tends to remain in the same area where he was born.  This is one advantage of harvesting does!

If the doe is alive and she forces the young male to disperse, the distance he will travel is influenced by the quality of the habitat, the local deer herd density, predator population, and several other factors.  As biologists learn more about deer by using GPS collars and other neat tools, we are discovering that deer are like humans in that each one is a unique individual.  The averages often quoted for home range size, distance of dispersal, etc., rarely closely represent a large percentage of the population due to the individual nature of deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What tips do you have on how to pattern mature bucks?

Question
I’ve been hunting this giant 10 point for a few years now on my parent’s property.  Just when I think I know his pattern, he changes things up on me.  Do you have any tips on how to pattern this buck?

David

David,

Mature bucks can be difficult to pattern.  I use Reconyx trail cameras to determine where deer are moving at night, then I use my knowledge of the area to predict where the mature buck will bed during the day.  I call this connecting the dots.  Based on this information, I locate stands in between the dots (travel zones).  Once a pattern is suspected, I limit my disturbance to the area and wait until the wind and other factors are to my advantage before hunting that buck.  I think that successfully patterning a mature buck is as much fun as harvesting one.

Growing (and patterning) Bucks together,

Grant

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Why Turkeys Ingest Grit

 

Question
I harvested a turkey that had iron in the bladder.  What could cause this?

Thank you,

TJ

 

TJ,

Are you referring to the crop – the white sack above the breast?  If so, what shape was the iron?  If small, they were probably picking it up as grit.  Turkeys ingest grit daily and the grit passes to the gizzard and is used to grind up food.  The grit basically serves as their teeth.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Help with Prescribed Fire

 

Question
I want to do a prescribed fire after I spray the weeds/grass. I intend to plant soybeans, clover, etc. for deer and turkey on approximately 30 acres of pasture. Who can I contact to assist me (I have no experience with prescribed fire)?

Thanks,

David (Arkansas)

David,

Prescribed fire is a great tool, but it can also be dangerous and even deadly. I helped combat a wildfire recently that was started by folks attempting to do a prescribed fire that didn’t have sufficient training, knowledge, or equipment. You are wise to seek assistance!

Many state and federal agencies provide workshops for prescribed fire planning and implementation. Some states require participants to be certified before they can help with prescribed fire. I’m not sure what the policy is in Arkansas, but a call to your local county or forestry extension office should provide you with the correct information and hopefully an opportunity for training! Don’t dare drop a match without help or adequate training!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How do you pattern bucks on public hunting land?

Question
I would like to try to pattern and hunt trophy bucks on federal land in the north Georgia mountains.  How should I go about this?

Owen

Owen,

I lived in north Georgia and South Carolina for several years and hunted the national forest lands in the mountains. It was great turkey hunting but a very difficult place to pattern deer.  The same is true in the Ozark Mountains where I grew up (and currently live).  Without habitat improvement, deer rarely have distinct patterns and certainly rarely use trails in such areas.  This is because food sources and bedding areas are not defined in contrast to the ag production areas of the Midwest.  However, I would spend the bulk of my time scouting, looking for fresh sign and general travel routes.  Within these travel routes I would concentrate on bottlenecks such as steep saddles in the mountains or bluffs that force deer to travel within a specific area.  Once these areas are located, they will provide quality hunting unless the deer sense the danger and change their patterns.

If you can successfully harvest deer regularly in the mountains of Georgia on public land, you can be a successful deer hunter anywhere!

Growing (and hunting) Deer together,

Grant

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Where is the best place to locate hunting stands?

Question
Is it better to set up stands on the edge of a food source or back inside off the plot?  My morning stand is back inside 150 yards but I’m not sure about where to set my evening stand.

Thank you, you are a great help to guys like me,

Kermit

Kermit,

I select stand locations based on how much hunting pressure occurs in the area.  If there are food sources that aren’t frequently hunted, then deer may come to them well before dark!  If that’s the case, then placing stands overlooking or near the food source is a good option for afternoon hunts.  If the food sources tend to get pressured, deer likely won’t approach the field until after dark.  In this situation, it’s best to place the stands between the food and the likely bedding areas.

I almost always opt for stands closer to bedding areas in the morning as the deer will likely be close to the food sources just before daylight and if I attempt to approach that area I will spook the deer.

The bottom line is that I prefer to place stands where I can access them without spooking the deer.  This means I’m approaching and leaving the stand at time when the deer are not close to that location.

Growing (and hunting) Deer together,

Grant

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Improving Bedding Areas

Question
Grant,

Is there anything you can do, planting or building up, to make deer bedding habitats better?

Keep up the fantastic work!

Brett

Brett,

Quality bedding cover for deer is cover that is thick from 0-3′ high and open above 3′.  It needs to be on south facing slopes if it is to be used during the winter.  If it is to be used during the summer it needs to have a partial canopy for shade and be on a north facing slope.  The size of the bedding area is also important.  Deer will use small areas (an acre or two in size) if that’s the largest block around, but prefer larger blocks so predators have difficulty isolating them.  I usually create bedding areas that are at least 10 acres or larger.

In addition to creating bedding areas, I make them sanctuaries.  That is I stay out of them except during the spring to shed hunt or to recover a shot deer during season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Sources of Deer for Restocking

 

Question
What sub species of white-tailed deer is in Reynolds County, Missouri?  When my dad was young he said he talked to a man that was restocking deer out of Wisconsin for the Conservation Department.  What do you know about this?

Matt

 

 

Matt,

There is a good book available through the Quality Deer Management Association about the restocking of white-tailed deer throughout their range.  The authors collected records from most states, including Missouri, to document the sources of deer used to restock and how many were released.  It seems there are gads and gads of stories about the fabulous restocking effort, but the book by the Quality Deer Management Association is the best collection of accurate information on the subject that I’m aware of.  Most of the deer restocked in Missouri were from remnant populations in Missouri.  In fact, they restocked 2,292 deer trapped from within Missouri and 356 from Michigan and Minnesota.  There were most likely some unrecorded events of citizens moving deer as well.

It is interesting that deer in northern Missouri were mainly stocked from existing populations in southern Missouri.  The large difference observed now between body and antler development in northern Missouri compared to southern Missouri is simply the vast difference in land use practices (ag crops in the central and northern counties compared to predominate timber and fescue pasture in the southern counties).  Deer in most counties south of I-44 simply can’t express their potential because of the low quality food available in this area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Often to Check Trail Cameras

 

Question
Hey Grant,

I just set up a trail camera on a big deer run.  How often should I check it?  I don’t want to spook the deer that bed there.

Jonathan

 

Jonathan,

The frequency at which to check a trail camera without spooking the local deer depends on where the trail camera is located.  If it’s in a bedding area one trip is too much!  That’s why I never locate trail cameras in areas where I want to hunt or bedding areas.  Doing so would simply condition deer to avoid the area during daylight.  I prefer to set trail cameras in areas that are relatively open and easy to access (a few steps from a road, trail, etc.).  I get the images/data and then figure out where to hunt.  I rarely place a stand close to a trail camera location as deer are conditioned to avoid that area during daylight hours.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How big of a food plot is needed for soybeans?

Question
Grant,

What size field do you recommend if you don’t wish to have a fence around your soybeans?  I have been watching your videos and saw that some of your fields you listed at .9 or right above an acre did not have a fence around them.  Thanks for the help and I love the videos.

James

James,

The size of the plot necessary to produce soybeans is dependent on the number of deer locally, the productivity of the plot, and alternate food sources such as the quality of native browse in the area.  I do a lot of prescribed fire and have fairly high quality native browse.  The quality of the native browse at The Proving Grounds peaks about the time when the forage soybeans at my place are germinating, there is plenty of food and deer don’t decimate the beans during the critical stage of their development.  I have 53 acres of appropriately fertilized food plots and about 500 acres of productive native browse/cover areas in the 1,500 acres of The Proving Grounds. However, the neighboring properties are mainly unmanaged hardwoods and fescue pasture.  There is no row crop ag within counties of me.  So I provide the quality forage for all the deer in the neighborhood.  The ratio of plots to total acreage to produce quality deer will be more or less at different areas depending on the production of each plot and land use practices on the neighboring properties.  If the deer density is high and there are many other quality food sources when the soybeans are germinating, then plots even an acre or more in size would need to be protected with an electric fence to allow them to mature enough to not be damaged by browse pressure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What effects the timing of buck scrapes and rubs?

Question
Dr. Grant,

While turkey hunting south/central Georgia this weekend I found plenty of fresh scrapes.  Why is that? Also, during the pre-rut we have bucks leaving plenty of scrapes, but just a few rubs.  Then in January after all the breeding is done our bucks go crazy rubbing trees.  Do you find that odd?

Keep up the good work!!

Kevin

Kevin,

Fawns in deer herds with access to good nutrition will reach puberty (approximately 70 pounds) in Georgia before and during the opening of the spring turkey season.  The female fawns that reach their first estrous cycle during that time of year cause the bucks to express rutting behavior.  Rutting behavior rarely occurs this time of year in areas without ag crops or good food plots.

I’m not sure about the timing of rubs on your property.  It could be that bucks are shifting their range a bit and more bucks are present on your property during January.  This could be caused by local farmers harvesting their crops and your food plots are providing the best food in the neighborhood during that time of year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the correct time to plant spring soybeans?

Question
When do you typically plant your beans?

Weston

Weston,

I plant when the soil temperature at two inches deep is 60 degrees at 9:00 AM.  9:00 AM is usually when the soil temperature is the coldest throughout the day.  Soybeans germinate and grow rapidly at this temperature.  They will germinate when it is warmer, however, warmer temperatures result in more soil moisture evaporation and lack of moisture rapidly stresses seedlings.

I plan to plant my Eagle Seed forage soybeans during the next 10 days or so, depending on weather.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What food plot crops do you recommend for Nebraska?

Question
Dr. Grant,

I would like to commend you on the videos you are producing for the web site.  I have watched most of them since the NWTF Convention.  There is a lot of useful information in them for anyone wanting to get started in deer management.

I live in southwestern Nebraska and I have mule deer, white-tailed deer, merriam’s turkeys, rio grand turkeys, and a hybrid of the two turkeys.  I am running my operation on 7,000 acres of private ground.  Other than ag crops, what would you recommend planting for this area?  On the acreage I operate I grow corn and wheat in a rotation crop.  In the winter I plant a winter food plot mix consisting of turnips, winter forage peas and brassicas.  In the spring I plant several plots consisting of spring forage peas, red clover, yellow sweet clover, sudan grass (headless), oats (reeves), cereals, rye, turnips (purple top), and a hybrid brassica mix (grazing).

I am trying to hold deer year around.  It is not working very well as I have only a few resident deer that I see often.  In hunting season I see deer that I don’t see the rest of the year.  My mule deer herd which should be migratory is not and they stay pretty much year around.  I just don’t see them much in the summer months due to heat.  I know I have a coyote problem and I shoot them on site whenever possible.  I have shot about 40 in two years.

I am just starting out on the deer management and have a lot to learn.  I am reading and watching everything I can get my hands on for this topic (any recommendations here would be helpful also).  I do soil samples on every plot, usually from several areas through the plot then blending them together as recommended by our co-op. Our co-op then sends them to an Iowa university to have them tested.  I receive a printout of fertilizer recommendations along with lime and ph numbers.  Any advice you can send my way would be greatly appreciated.  I don’t have a lot of help and I pretty much do everything myself.  The rancher I work for allows me use of his equipment.  I am a whitetail freak, I love growing them, watching them and harvesting them with my bow and rifle.
Thanks for your time and consideration!

Bryan

Bryan,

Thank you for the kind words!  It sounds as if you have a good deer management program started!  You are correct that providing quality food is a good tool for minimizing the home range size of deer.  The biggest change I would suggest to your program would be to plant forage soybeans rather than the warm season blend you described.  Deer may consume some of the varieties you described, but none of them produce as much tonnage of quality forage as forage soybeans.  In addition, soybeans are relatively easy to establish and maintain.

I’m not sure I understood correctly, but it sounds as if you are mixing soil samples from all your plots and then submitting one sample to the lab.  If that’s the case, I strongly suggest you watch GDTV #71 about how to collect and label soil samples.  I think it will clearly explain a better system to help you produce better crops and better deer!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What should I do to create the best habitat for deer and turkey hunting?

Question
Hi,

I recently acquired 80 acres from my wife’s family.  We have a very high deer population and at least three packs of coyotes that are on or around our little piece of land.  The land was clear-cut about 5 years ago leaving some good hardwoods and some pines.  There are limited access routes at present but I will be changing that soon.  The property joins over 800 acres of land owned by family and it is only hunted by one family member.  Some of the 800 acres is also clear-cut.  I have 3 creeks that come together on my property then one creek runs into a big government lake situated on family land.  I need to try to groom my 80 acres to make it great deer and turkey hunting ground.  Where can I get the information I need to get started?  I grew up on a farm but I don’t have any equipment yet and I don’t know where to begin.  Please help.

Thanks!!!
David

David,

Congratulations on owning land!  I would start by analyzing what critical elements of deer habitat (food, cover, and water) are the most limited in availability on the surrounding properties.  From your note, it sounds like there is plenty of cover (clear cuts) and water (creeks and lakes) in the surrounding area.  However, you didn’t mention any cultivated food?  If there is no food except native browse in the area, then I would start by establishing food plots with high quality forage.  Deer are very selective foragers and will readily use the best forage within their home range.  From what I know about your neighborhood, adding high quality forage may be the best way to make sure the local deer spend a disproportionate amount of time on your property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Hinge Cutting to Create Bedding Areas

Question
Grant,

I hunt a small 40 acre piece of land on the eastern shore of Maryland. The deer bed mainly in the phragmites marsh and travel through the woods (15-17 acres of mature pines and oak/sweet-gums) to the corn and bean fields to feed.  If I were to hinge cut specific identified trees to provide cover would this likely draw them out of bedding in the marsh and transition them to bed closer to the fields?  When hinge cutting and thinking about a prescribed burn, should I burn and then cut or cut and then burn?  Thank you for your time.

Wil

Wil,

Although phragmites is a very invasive weed, it does provide great bedding cover.  Deer prefer to bed in habitat similar to phragmites.  I doubt by hinge cutting some trees, you will change where deer bed in your area.  If the phragmites are controlled (by using specific herbicides), the deer might rapidly adapt to the next most suitable bedding cover.  On the other hand, if closed-canopy forest was the only cover type within the home range of those deer, they would readily adapt to using the hinged cut trees for cover.

If you do opt to hinge cut for the purpose of developing ground-level cover, you should burn first, then hinge cut.  The timing of fire is more important than the timing of hinge-cutting most trees.  Please always use caution when using prescribed fire!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mineral in Illinois

Question
I really enjoyed your seminar at the NWTF Convention.  My question is about CWD in Illinois.  The DNR is shooting all the deer in areas where CWD has been detected.  There have been a couple of cases in JoDavies County where my farm is.  Should I put out Trophy Rocks?  Would that be dangerous for the herd?

Pat

Pat,

Thank you for the kind words!  I believe it is illegal to place any mineral supplement or bait for deer in Illinois (always check the local regulations).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Controlling Bamboo

Question
Grant,

We have 230 acres of land with 50 acres in prime hardwood bottom land.  Wild bamboo has started growing in this bottom land and is about 4 feet high.  We want to control about half of this bamboo.  What chemical would you recommend to spray the bamboo to kill it and prevent it from spreading so fast?

Regards,

Tom (west central Georgia)

Tom,

I’m not aware of an effective herbicide for controlling bamboo.  This is especially true for the varieties that spread by runners.  The American Bamboo Society has more detailed information on their web site.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do Deer Have a Learning Curve

Question
What do you know of the relationship between deer utilization of a food plot planted in a common local ag crop vs. a crop not grown in the area.  Are there observed delays in deer utilizing the foreign crop?  For example, I planted Iron Clay Cowpeas in a three acre plot and got zero utilization. With the exception of winter wheat there are no ag crops anywhere close to me.  I assume that the food source was foreign to the deer and that contributed to the lack of deer browsing.  Have you ever seen a delay in deer utilizing a crop that is not a common food source?  Will deer eventually figure it out after multiple seasons of planting?  Although I plan to plant Eagle Seed beans this year, local seed stores are baffled when I tell them that the deer did not eat the Iron Clay Cowpeas.  Thanks for any insight!

Jamie

Jamie,

I had the same experience when I first planted soybeans at The Proving Grounds!  There are no soybeans within a couple of counties in any direction of me, and during the first two years I planted soybeans I couldn’t tell that a single leaf had been removed by deer.  Now they readily consume them.  Deer certainly can and will learn to consume new forage types.  It’s up to the landowner to decide if the variety of forage he is planting has enough benefit to weather the duration of the learning process.  I felt (and still do) that Eagle Seed Forage Soybeans were so productive and high in nutritive value that weathering the learning process was well worth the wait!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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The deer are destroying my landscape. What should I do?

Question
My neighborhood is overpopulated with deer.  We live in Cape Girardeau, Missouri.  On some afternoons there are 25 deer in my front yard.  Are there any special interest groups that might come and capture the deer to relocate them?  They can be very destructive.  They eat all our plants and flowers, tear up the yard while jumping around and have worn trails in our yard.  Shooting the deer is not well received in our community.  What would you advise?

Viney

Viney,

Unfortunately there are gads of neighborhoods throughout the whitetails’ range that are overpopulated.  Residents go from liking to see an occasional deer to some of the residents hating deer.  It is sad when deer are left unmanaged and then become hated.  They are beautiful creatures and deserve respect and to be appropriately managed.  I’m not aware of any group that will move deer.  Deer are owned by the state (unless part of a captive herd) and can only be moved, harvested, etc., by special permit issued by the governing state agency.  Problems similar to yours have been faced for years and the only solution to date is to harvest the excess deer.  There are several major metropolitan areas that accomplish this by hosting archery only hunts.  These hunts are strongly regulated, and often the hunters must qualify by taking a safety and proficiency test.  If you and your neighbors wish to address the problem I’m very confident this is the only route.  You may wish to contact the regional Missouri Department of Conservation office and seek addition counsel since this would be a state/local jurisdiction sanctioned event.

Whatever you do, don’t allow the neighborhood to lose respect for a beautiful part of God’s creation.  The deer are not at fault.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How do I manage my small property for the best deer hunting?

Question
Hi Dr. Grant,

If you have really small tracts of land, 80 acres to 1 acre, how would you go about managing it?

Shane (central Minnesota)

Shane,

I usually start by identifying if food, water, or cover is the most limiting factor in the neighborhood.  I do this by combining information gathered from using Google Earth and driving around the neighborhood.  If one of these critical habitat elements is limited in availability, I begin by establishing that resource on the property I’m managing.  I also attempt to determine the amount of hunting pressure locally, and how that might impact deer activity in the neighborhood.  I also insure when I hunt the property, my approach to the stand doesn’t alert deer to my presence.  That often means approaching using a non-direct route such as walking the border 1/2 way around the property so I can approach with the wind in my face.  Don’t forget that the smaller the property, the more critical sanctuaries may be.  Deer need an area where they always feel secure.  By providing this on your land, deer are more likely to spend the days on your property.  Having deer present on your property during daylight hours is a huge advantage!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What are your preferred herbicides for food plots and wildlife?

Question
I have been growing food plots for 28 years the old fashion way, till and broadcast.  I used very little herbicides until generic Roundup became available.  I have just purchased a no-till drill, GPS guidance system and tractor pulled sprayer.  I am leaping into the 21st century of wildlife management.  The vast array of herbicides gets confusing.  Could you break down the products that you prefer, how you use them, and possible alternatives?  Maybe a web tv segment would be the best format.  I look forward to your response and really like your website, it is very informative.

Jim

Jim,

Thank you for the kind words!  It seems there are new herbicides and new combinations of herbicides annually!  A great resource is “A Guide to Successful Wildlife Food Plots” by Dr. Craig Harper that is available at QDMA’s online store.  I primarily use glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup) as I plant mainly Roundup Ready soybeans and corn.  If you plant a wider variety of crops, I think Craig’s book will be a great resource.

Growing Deer (and learning) together,

Grant

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Mule Deer Hunting Opportunities

Question
I want to take my daughter mule deer hunting.  Do you know of any good walk-in mule deer hunting?

Colin

Colin,

Several states have some great mule deer hunting opportunities, but generally there is a draw process to receive a tag.  Nevada has some exceptional opportunities, but the chance of drawing for a non-resident is very slim.  There are some great mulies in western Kansas, but tags are mainly limited to residents.  Kansas has a great walk-in program on private lands.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Percent of Habitat to Burn Annually

Question
Approximately what percentage of The Proving Grounds do you prescribe burn each year?  Would that number vary in a pine plantation?

Stan

Stan,

I burn approximately a third of The Proving Grounds annually.  The percentage varies based on weather and other factors.  The correct prescribed fire program for a pine plantation would depend on the type of pines, the age of the stands, other management activities such as herbicide and fertilizer, and the management objective.  I would mislead you by offering a simple answer.  Prescribed fire is a great tool when used appropriately, but can be extremely damaging and/or dangerous if misapplied.  If you work with a consulting forester, they may be able to offer you site-specific advice.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Where do Deer Drink during Freezing Conditions

Question
I was watching the most recent episode (GDTV 65) and you were mentioning the use of minerals at The Proving Grounds, even though the pond was frozen and forage was dry with little moisture.  Being from the Southeast, we don’t have to worry about long periods of sub-freezing weather and key water sources being frozen.  The view of the frozen pond and dried forage got me wondering.  Where do deer get their water requirements from in the winter months in areas where the water sources may freeze over for longer periods and all the forage is dried out?

Curious, but not envious,

Phil

Phil,

In the areas where I work, there always seems to be a spring, or some source of water that is not frozen.  I’m not sure if all the water sources at a specific location freeze if deer will consume snow, but I suspect they would.  Deer, and other critters, also will break through ice with their paws to get to water.  Once the water source is opened, it would be easier to reopen daily.  With deer surviving in areas of Canada where winter conditions are severe and prolonged, deer obviously can survive in much harsher conditions than what I experience at The Proving Grounds!  At least we have several months where mosquitoes are not a factor!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Separate Buck, Doe, and Fawn Bedding Areas

Question
Hello Grant,

I look forward to watching GrowingDeer.tv every week.  I’m sure it’s not easy, you and your team do a great job.

I’ve heard of people making separate buck bedding areas, doe bedding areas, and fawning areas.  What are they?  How would you make them?  I can’t imagine getting a wild deer to bed exactly where you want them to.

Thank you for your time.

Kasey

Kasey,

I’ve also heard of buck, doe, and fawn bedding areas.  However, I have no idea how to create gender-specific bedding area.  In areas where bucks receive more hunting pressure than does, they tend to bed in areas with thicker cover.  However, in areas where the harvest pressure is even, I’ve never noticed a difference between the characteristics of a buck or doe bedding area.  Bucks will typically be more solitary than doe/fawn groups.  I’ve certainly never noticed fawns bedding in different areas than does once the fawn is mobile and able to follow the doe.  I’m skeptical of these claims, but am willing to learn if anyone wishes to share!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What tips do you have for successfully deer hunting on public land?

Question
Grant,

I’m not as fortunate as most hunters on having my own land to hunt.  So I must resort to hunting local game lands.  The local game lands do have some corn food plots on them.  What should I look for so that my 10 year old son and I can be more successful hunters?

Thanks and keep your videos coming,

Tracy

Tracy,

Hunting pressure can be a deterrent to daytime deer activity.  It’s a given that many hunters will hunt very near the food plots.  However, it’s often worth walking the extra distance to get away from where most hunter activity is located.  In addition, consider when and where the bulk of the hunters will be moving and consider using that disturbance to predict where and when deer will be moving.  There are many great hunting opportunities on public land.  With a little scouting of both deer and fellow hunters, you and your son should be enjoying some successful hunts!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Hunt Deer in South Carolina

Question
I am from the Northeast and am going to hunt in South Carolina.  Do you think the third week of October would be a good time for deer hunting?

Bob

Bob,

Daytime deer activity is strongly influenced by daytime temperatures everywhere, but especially in the South.  I’ve had some great hunts, and some total bust hunting during mid to late October in South Carolina (I lived there for many years).  I realize this doesn’t help you plan vacation days.  However, weather is a huge factor that influences daytime deer activity.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best food plot seed for wet, clay soils?

Question
Hi Grant,

I live in New Jersey and want to start a food plot.  I have clay soil and it’s very wet.  What would be some good things to grow in this soil to attract whitetail deer?

Thanks,

Nolan 

Nolan,

Most forage crops don’t do well when their feet are wet.  White or ladino clover is about as tolerant of moist soils as any food plot crop that I’m aware of.  Food plots that are oriented east and west will receive more sun and evaporation than those oriented north and south.  By ensuring the plot receives as much sun as practical each day will help remove some of the excess moisture.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which Side Sheds First

Question
I have noticed antler sheds earlier than normal on our property.  Most of them are young bucks but what is really strange is the 7 I found were right sides only.  I asked my friend about this and he wasn’t sure what it meant but told me to ask you!! Is this something we should be concerned about as we move forward?

Dave

Dave,

I’m not aware of any research that reports which side deer shed first.

From bucks I’ve watched in captivity, I’ve never noticed a bias for shedding the left or right antler first.  I strongly suspect your observations are coincidental.  Keep looking and you will probably find the other sheds from those bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attracting Bucks to Small Acreage Tracts

Question
I have about 10 acres of land and all I see are does.  How do I get the bucks to come out?

Logan

Logan,

Bucks need food, cover, and water.  A great technique is to use one of the free mapping services like Google Earth on the internet and study where sources of food, cover, and water are located in your neighborhood.  If any of these critical habitat components are missing, such as high quality food, then attempt to establish that where you hunt.  Remember that deer would rather survive than eat, sleep, or drink, so be very careful how you approach your hunting location.  Always try to have the wind in your face, even if you have to walk around the border of the property and then enter to your stand from the backside.  Being able to approach a stand without spooking deer is as important as the stand’s location.

Growing (and hunting) Deer together,

Grant

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Feeding Corn to Deer During the Late Season

Question
Hi Grant,

I love your show and the way you are not just killing deer, but managing them.

I’ve been hearing a lot about not putting out corn and corn piles for the deer later in the year.  People are saying the deer can’t break it down and they burn more energy then they get.  Is this true?

Thanks for the shows,

Joe

Joe,

Deer don’t really digest any foods.  They ingest the food, and then bacteria in their rumen (gut) digest the foods.  These populations of bacteria are somewhat specific to the type of food they breakdown.  For example, if deer haven’t had access to corn, the bacteria that digest starching foods will significantly decrease in population.  If a deer ingests a lot of corn while the appropriate bacteria populations are low, the corn can’t be digested and the deer will die with a tummy full of corn.

If the deer haven’t been consuming corn, then either don’t start or start feeding only very small amounts.  The deer will literally have to grow the appropriate bacteria before gaining any benefit from the corn.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Establishing Chicory

 

Question
Dear Grant,

I planted a one acre food plot with BioLogic Maximum last August.  It was the best food plot I have ever planted as far as growing a full lush field that really attracted deer.  My 15 year old son and I both killed very nice 2 1/2 year old bucks off this field with compound bows, one 9 pt. 176 lb. and one 8 pt. 165 lb. buck.  A friend also scored on a 2 1/2 year old 8 pt. in archery season, as well as two relatives killing nice 2 1/2 year old 8 pt. bucks in rifle season.  All of these on just 80 acres in southeast Pennsylvania, 3 of them off this food plot.

It worked so well I was tempted to replant the field again this fall, but decided instead to take advantage of the present conditions of the ground to do a frost seeding, saving time and money on tilling.  I will plow and plant my other food plot with BioLogic Maximum this fall.  I am planning to frost seed a mix of white ladino clover and red clover, a mix that has worked for me in the past.  However, I would love to also establish chicory or alfalfa in addition to the clover mix.  In the past, I had once tried frost seeding both chicory and alfalfa with poor results.  Is it worth trying again, or is there something else you recommend frost seeding?  Based on my results with conventional planting, I would like to establish chicory in with the clovers.  I do not have a no-till planter and must till before spring or fall plantings, which is a lot of work.

I appreciate any advice or recommendations you can give.

Thanks,

Dan

Dan,

Wow – sounds like some great hunting on your farm last season!!  Congratulations!

Clover is easily established using the frost seeding method (GDTV 68).  However, alfalfa rarely can be established as well using that technique.  Alfalfa germinates best when there is a firm seedbed and very good seed to soil contact.  This is rarely the case when frost seeding.

Chicory is a softer seed and often will crack or rot before germinating when planted when frosts are still occurring.  To establish a good stand of either alfalfa or chicory, you will need to either till or use a no-till drill once the soil temperatures warm up a bit.  Many counties rent no-till drills so be sure and check with the local county extension or NRCS office.

As I write this, there is snow covering portions of Pennsylvania.  I’ve established great stands of clover by spreading it directly into late season snows and letting the seed be placed by the melting snow.

Growing Deer (and crops) together,

Grant

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Eagle Seed Soybeans in Virginia

Question
I want to plant some Eagle Seed Roundup Ready soybeans.  I live in central Virginia.  I understand that Eagle Seed has a number of Roundup Ready varieties including Habitat Haven, Big Fellow, Wildlife Managers Mix, and others.  Which would you recommend for my location?  Do all the mixes have blends for different growing regions (i.e. South, Midwest, etc.)?

Tom

Tom,

I’ve planted all of those varieties of Eagle Seed forage soybeans at that latitude with great success!!  There is a great description of each variety/blend on their website.  I think you will be amazed at the production of Eagle Seed’s forage soybeans.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Establishing Native Warm Season Grasses

Question
Hello Grant,

I purchased a small farm in southern Iowa last spring.  I had a small field planted in corn but I would like to plant this same field in switchgrass.  It’s a low lying field with a 58 CSR.  What would be the best procedure in accomplishing this?

I enjoy your website.  It is very interesting and educational.

Ty

Ty,

I’ve had my best results establishing switchgrass following a crop of Roundup Ready soybeans.  The Roundup Ready soybeans add nitrogen to the soil and allow weeds to be controlled.  The following spring, I simply use Roundup to remove any weeds and no-till the switchgrass seed into the weedless field.  Corn uses most of the available nitrogen, and therefore the switchgrass will be slow to become established and allow more weeds to develop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How should we manage our hunt club food plots in an area that is heavy timber?

Question
Grant,

I’m a member of a hunting club that owns 700 acres of strictly timber ground in northern Pennsylvania.  We have the necessary sanctuaries and we are adding 12 acres of food plots in the center of the property.  What is the most profitable food that will hold deer and increase harvest opportunities?

Also, have you ever tried to no till brassicas in late summer into clover plots?

Keep up the great work!!

John

John,

The 12 acres is only 1.7% of the property in food plots.  If the remainder of the property is closed canopy forest, then clover might be the best option.  Do the existing plots receive a lot of browse pressure?  If so, more palatable crops such as forage soybeans would most likely be over browsed unless they were protected by a food plot fence.

I have used a no-till drill to seed brassicas into an existing clover stand.  This technique works well if the clover is dormant from drought conditions.  The brassicas will struggle if the clover is lush and blocking the sun from reaching the soil.

No matter what you plant, it’s critical the crops are as productive as possible given the food plot to timber ratio.  I recommend you do a soil test annually and request the lab base their recommendations on a maximum yield.

Finally, I also recommend using a utilization cage in each plot so production versus utilization can be compared.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What can I plant in a food plot that is pretty to neighbors and attractive to deer?

Question
Grant,

I own 14 acres in central Missouri.  My land is surrounded by a mixture of mature woods and pastures.  There are no ag crops in the vicinity.  I do have a couple of small food plots on my land, but I’m really trying to figure out the best thing to plant in the 2 or 3 acres of fields I have that are currently fescue.  These fields are really an extension of our yard, so how they look is important (at least to my neighbors!).  Ideally, I’d like it to be something perennial.  I mow these patches two or three times per year.  Would rye grass be a better option than fescue?  What could I plant that would benefit the deer in this situation?  Thanks for your help and the incredible wisdom that you share with deer nuts like me!

Todd

Todd,

I’m not a rye grass fan.  However, heavily fertilized rye grass is more attractive and will provide more nutrition to deer than fescue.  Given that you want something that looks like turf that deer will consume, rye grass is a viable option.  If it was my yard, I’d plant soybeans, make the deer happy and let the neighbors worry about their own yard.  Obviously, I’m more of food plot guy than a yard guy — just ask my wife.

Growing Deer (and relationships) together,

Grant

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Roundup Ready Alfalfa

Question
What are your thoughts on planting Roundup Ready alfalfa for deer?

Brady

Brady,

Roundup Ready alfalfa is not labeled (not legal) to plant for wildlife consumption.  This has nothing to do with Roundup being toxic to wildlife, but rather Monsanto did not pay for research to get the government to label the product for wildlife consumption.

I don’t like alfalfa as a food plot crop.  All varieties of alfalfa require intensive management to be productive.  I like hunting near alfalfa that farmers establish and maintain.  However, it requires more equipment and work than I and most food plot farmers can expend.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Slay on Clover

Question
Dr. Woods,

I so enjoy all of your programs and appreciate you publishing them!  I have enjoyed your book as well!  If you have time to respond to one quick question, I thank you.  Can we use Slay on Durana and Ladino clovers?

Hope you’re doing well and I send my best to you.

John

John,

You can use Slay on those varieties of clover.  However, you may find very similar chemistry in ag stores that are priced much more reasonably, depending on local supplies.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Average Amount of Antler Growth Expressed by Age Class

Question
Grant,

On average how much does a buck usually gain in antler growth each year?

Greg

Greg,

I’m glad you phrased your question by starting with “on average…”  Each buck is an individual just like humans.  For example, I was the tallest kid in my first grade class.  However, I didn’t even make the freshman basketball team.  Different individuals (human or deer) will express their growth potential at different ages.  However, Mississippi State published the following data years ago that represents the average amount of antler growth potential expressed by several bucks in their research program.

I suspect the trends would apply to free-ranging, wild herds as well.  There is no doubt about it, allowing bucks to mature to at least four years of age will allow most bucks to express more of their antler growth potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Row Spacing for Soybeans

Question
Dr. Grant,

First off I want to tell you how much I enjoy the GrowingDeer.tv series.  The series has really been educational for me, not to mention entertaining.  I look forward to your email every Monday, keep up the great work.

My question, what do you use as your row spacing for Eagle Seed beans?  I have heard 30-36″ but I was hoping to use a 7.5″ drill.  The drill on your show looks to be narrower than the 30-36″.  The field I am planning on planting is in north-central Wisconsin.  The field is going to be 3 acres of alfalfa, as it has been for the last 5-6 years.  I have not taken a soil test yet so I don’t know the specifics, but I think it should be pretty good.

Any ideas or helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Ryan

Ryan,

Thank you for the kind words!  I also plant soybeans with a no-till drill and use a 7.5″ spacing.  This actually gives each bean more room around the plant and allows for better utilization of sun, fertilizer, and soil moisture.  This spacing is not good for a typical combine, but is great for four-legged combines (deer) that I want to harvest the crop!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Type of Forage Soybean

Question
In GDTV 64, Winter Storm Forage, you show and discuss soybeans.  What specific brand and type of beans are those?

I really enjoy your videos!

Thanks,

Danny

Danny,

Thank you for your kind words!  The soybeans in that episode were Eagle Seed forage soybeans — the Large Lad variety.  Eagle Seed is the only soybean breeder that I’m aware of that sells group 7 (live until it frosts) forage soybeans that produce as much tonnage of forage and tremendous pod production as well.  They’ve literally won forage production tests at several universities.  Simply stated, they are a private company that has been family owned for 40+ years and no other soybean breeder has created such great quality forage soybeans.  Eagle Seed is literally decades ahead in selecting traits that make them the ultimate forage crop!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Aging Deer by the Lower Jaw

 

Question
I have a deer jawbone I saved from my son’s buck a few years ago.  Can I send it to you and have you age it?

Kable

Kable,

Unfortunately, I don’t accept jaws to age.  If I did, I would receive literally 1,000’s through the mail.  I hope there is a good biologist close to you that can provide an accurate estimate.  There are gads of good illustrations and descriptions about how to age deer using their lower jaw online.  One such source is the University of Missouri Extension.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Identify the tracks

Question
While walking through the woods the other day, I noticed paw prints inside the deer tracks.  They were inside the deer tracks and every so many feet they took a rest and then proceeded.  What type of animal would track this way?

Thanks,

Greg

Greg,

Without clear pictures, I can only assume based on the description provided.  Bobcats typically place their paws very close together and their hunting style often includes stopping frequently.  My best guess would be the critter was a bobcat.  Were the tracks more circular?  If so, that also indicates the critter was a bobcat.  Most other predator tracks are more oblong or even rectangular.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Crabgrass as Deer Forage

Question
Will deer eat red river crabgrass?  I plan to plant a food plot in cowpeas but was thinking about adding the crabgrass also.  Our ranch is about an hour and a half north of Abilene, Texas.

Brad

Brad,

Deer will eat almost anything if they are hungry enough and nothing else is available.  However, there are much better forage options in most areas than any variety of grass.  Deer simply don’t have the correct bacteria in their gut to digest grass as efficiently as cattle.  The grass would simply act as a competitor to the cowpeas — competing for water and nutrients that the much more preferred forage could use.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How does Lablab rate as a food plot crop for whitetails?

Question
Hey Grant,

I’m starting to plan spring planting and I was trying to decide if lablab would be an asset.  I live in mid-Georgia and I have never used lablab or know anyone in the immediate area who has.  I already use beans, chicory, peas, wheat, oats, grain, and sorghum in different combos (usually on a base of clover).  Would lablab benefit overall?

Thanks,

Floyd

Floyd,

Lablab is an annual legume somewhat similar to soybeans.  It usually doesn’t produce as much tonnage as Eagle Seed forage soybeans (selected specifically for high quality forage production).  It is also more fickle to establish (soil temperature, etc.) and weed control is tougher because lablab is not Roundup Ready.  For these reasons and more, I prefer forage soybeans as an annual legume for food plots.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Genetics to Match Sheds

Question
Hi Grant,

I was just wondering how one would go about having samples taken from sheds to see if a deer is a match from one year to the next.  Also, is this process costly or time consuming?

Thank you and keep up the great work!

Bobby

Bobby,

Most folks that attempt to use genetic testing to match sheds (bones, etc.) remove a small amount (the dust from a drilling a small hole) from the bases.  The most recent cost I was quoted for such research was about $65.00 per sample.  The samples must be collected, labeled, and shipped appropriately so the lab can process them efficiently.

Growing (and researching) Deer together,

Grant

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What advice do you have for students considering a career as a Wildlife Biologist?

Question
I have grown up reading articles of yours in magazines.  I am now a sophomore in college and I want to be a wildlife biologist that focuses on deer management.  You’re an expert in this field so I was wondering if you could give me some advice on pursuing this career.

Colin

Colin,

Thank you for the kind words!  I think the key to being successful in any field is to have a passion for the line of work and seek the best information and training to prepare.  To be a wildlife biologist that focuses on deer management, I strongly suggest you find ways through internships, volunteering, etc., to gain experience and make relationships with practicing deer managers.  I consider gaining experience just as important as the coursework associated with obtaining a degree.  One without the other will leave some gaps in your preparation.  I’ve addressed different aspects of this before and those comments can be found by searching the Ask Grant and blog entries on this site.

I look forward to working with you someday soon!

Grant

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Normal Date for Bucks to Shed

Question
I was out coyote hunting in northern Indiana on March 5th and I saw a nice 12 point buck that had not lost any of his rack yet.  Is this normal?

Thomas

Thomas,

In general the healthier bucks are the longer they will carry their antlers through winter.  I’ve seen bucks that haven’t shed during mid-April.  It sounds like you were blessed to observe a very healthy buck!  Bucks that don’t have enough quality food or that have been injured will typically shed much earlier during the winter.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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College Class Work

Question
I am currently going to college to obtain a degree in wildlife biology and conservation.  I am interested in knowing what classes you took and any recommendations or suggestions you’d have for me as I pursue this major.

Thanks,

Ryan

Ryan,

A heavy load of the sciences (biology, botany, forestry and wildlife) are a given.  However, it seems many students that desire to enter the wildlife field don’t realize the amount of writing and oral communication necessary to be effective.  I strongly suggest you, through course work or practice, attempt to become a very effective written and oral communicator.  I am very confident communication skills will improve your life no matter the profession you choose.

Growing Deer together

Grant

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Why Bucks Shed

Question
A week ago one of my buddies found a dead buck in his woods that had already lost his antlers. He found one of his sheds a few feet away and another in a brush pile 50 feet away.  The buck was either a two or a three year old.  Is there any reason to why this would be?

Evan

Evan,

Wow, that’s a neat observation!  I doubt anyone can explain exactly what happened to that buck. However, in general, bucks shed when their body conditions drops below a certain threshold (release of antlers is caused by a change in hormone levels).  The buck was obviously not in prime condition during late winter.  As to exactly what happened, I doubt we will ever know.  Some theories would include he shed and was coincidentally killed by a predator or was injured which caused him to shed and was trying to find cover in a brush pile and died from his injuries.  Again, these are simply theories!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cover Crop for Plots in Canada

Question
Hi Grant,

I live Nova Scotia Canada and I’m replanting a 5 year old 1/2 acre clover plot this year.  I’m preparing it for an early August brassica planting for the fall.  I was thinking on planting it in something this spring rather than tilling it in and then replanting with brassica.  What would you recommend to plant right now that would give the deer some feed over the summer but act as a manure for my late season planting?  I was thinking on some fall rye and annual clover.

Thanks,

Bob

Bob,

Cover crops are extremely valuable tools.  In fact, there is a new field of study of cover crops.  Different crops provide different values such as extracting more nutrients from deep in the soil to fracturing hard pans.

Unfortunately, some of the cover crops are not palatable to deer, especially during the summer months.  One that I like to use up north is buckwheat.  Buckwheat is an annual flower forage crop that deer readily consume.  Any portions that are not consumed can be tilled back into the soil as a source of organic matter.  Soybean forage also makes great organic matter.  For this purpose, it is not necessary that the plants produce pods.  This is a great application for rapid growing Eagle Seed forage soybeans.  Their aggressive growth will provide lots of quality organic matter during a short timeframe.  However, they may need to be protected with an electric fence in a plot that is 1/2 acre in size.

Remember that even cover crops need fertilizer to express their growth potential.  This is especially true if the cover crop is to double as a source of forage for deer.  Make sure to have the soil tested at a reputable lab, I use Waters Ag, and apply lime and fertilizer as recommended for the crop.  You can inform the lab that you will be planting buckwheat followed by brassicas for a custom recommendation.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Designing an Experiment

Question
I’m going to college to become a wildlife biologist, do you have any advice? I am also going to run a study on how barometric pressure affects deer, any thoughts?

Neil

Neil,

I’ve addressed several questions about becoming a wildlife biologist.  You might check out my answer to Getting Involved and use the search feature to find more answers.  I strongly believe that most folks can be successful at any occupation that they are passionate about.  That doesn’t mean entering or advancing in that occupation will be easy or profitable.  You should know that passion about hunting is not the same as passion about being a wildlife biologist.  The two certainly complement each other.  However, many wildlife biologists (including myself) spend more time helping other hunters and landowners than we do hunting.  My strongest suggestion for you would be to spend a summer as an intern with a wildlife biologist that works in a specific area of your choosing.  Spending a summer, even on a volunteer basis, is much less expensive in terms of dollars and time, then finding out that being a wildlife biologist was a bad choice.  I believe that internships or similar programs are extremely beneficial to folks deciding which career path to take.  I volunteered a summer through the Student Conservation Organization when I was a junior in college.  I worked for the Bureau of Land Management at the Elko, Nevada District.  I was only paid $25 per week and provided a small trailer for living quarters.  It was a fabulous experience.  My best counsel for you is to do an internship and see what being a wildlife biologist is really like before making a decision for your degree program.

Designing studies that provide meaningful results takes a bit of time.  Please take time to consider the question (hypothesis) you wish to address and be honest about all the variables that may impact the results.  Probably the biggest flaw in most studies is not accounting for all the sources of variability.  Results without understanding the variables often lead to erroneous conclusions.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Past Episodes of GrowingDeer.tv

Question
Hi Grant,

Great job on GrowingDeer.tv, I can’t wait until Monday when I get the new video to watch.  I’m wondering if you have the trapping video available from 2010 (GDTV 10)?  I’ve started trapping raccoons and I remember that you had some great information.

Thanks,

Dan

Dan,

Thank you for the kind words!  All of the past episodes of GrowingDeer.tv are available on the website.  Simply click on the word “videos” on the top navigation bar.  You can find past episodes by topic, or review all the past episodes on this page.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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What food plot variety would you suggest for a small plot designed for hunting turkey and deer?

Question
Grant,

I have a 1 acre ridge top area inside the woods that I want to put a hunting plot in for next hunting season.  I am in northwestern Missouri and am surrounded by corn and beans. Should I plant the 1 acre opening with Eagle Seed soybeans or should I plant half turnips and half wheat?  I’m concerned about 1 acre soybeans making it through without too much deer damage, but I am surrounded by commercial beans.  Just curious what crop you would suggest.  Thought a wheat plot would also double for turkey hunting, but deer would be my main target.

Blessings,

Brandon

Brandon,

Eagle Seed soybeans will remain green and growing much later in the fall than most production beans.  That’s positive for most hunters in most situations because once the local production beans turn brown the deer tend to find the Eagle Seed soybeans very attractive.  However, if the local deer population is high, then the beans could be damaged by excessive browsing in a small plot.  The ultimate design in the situation you described is to use a food plot protection fence and protect the Eagle Seed forage soybeans until you wish to hunt.  Then open the gate and allow deer access to the beans.  If there are any pods left, the plot would be very attractive to turkeys the following spring.

I have the same concern about turnips if the local deer population is high.  Once deer decide turnips are palatable, they can remove the forage and bulbs in just a few days in the situation you described.  The forage varieties of Eagle Seed soybeans have been consistently shown to produce five tons or more of forage per acre in university trials.  That’s not counting the pod production.  So, if a food plot protection fence is used it’s tough to find another forage that will provide that much green forage during the early bow season plus 2,600 pounds (at a production of 40 bushels per acre) of high quality grain during the winter.  For comparison, wheat produces 1,200 to 1,600 pounds of digestible forage per acre.  Given this, it’s easy to see why deer populations are higher and in better health in ag production areas versus non-ag areas.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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The Need to Soil Test

Question
Grant,

While I was watching your March 14th episode (GDTV 68) I saw what I think is a common mistake.  Correct me if I’m wrong, but….

Brad seeded an area and then applied lime in order to neutralize acidity.  He said he was going to wait a week before applying fertilizer.  My understanding is that fertilizer tends to raise acidity.  As a result, applying lime and fertilizer cancels the affects of the two out.  Yes?

Matt

Matt,

Yes, some forms of commercial fertilizer are acidic.  However, nutrients must be in the soil for plants to transfer them to deer.  So fertilizer and enough lime are added to insure nutrients are available in the soil and the soil’s pH is balanced at about 6.5.  By adding enough lime, the acidic qualities of the fertilizer are more than neutralized.

This is a perfect example of why soil tests are so important — the results of a soil test provides accurate information of how much fertilizer and lime is necessary to create a healthy environment for the specific crop to be planted.

Adding lime and fertilizer is always a balancing act!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Fuel Mixture for Drip Torch

Question
What mixture of fuel do you use in your drip torch?

I love the show, and have shared it with lots of buddies.  Keep up the great work.

Josh

Josh,

I use 1/3 gas (at max!!) and 2/3 diesel.  Make sure you don’t use more than 1/3 gas as it can be extremely explosive!  Also, make sure the drip torch has a backflow control (usually a 360 in the spout).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Where is the best place to hunt to find a buck’s shed antlers?

Question
Grant,

I don’t know if you remember but I contacted you earlier in bow season about a buck that disappeared on me.  Well, he is smart.  I didn’t get any pictures of him from September until the end of muzzle loader season.  I had a few encounters with him and my bow but no luck.  Any tips for finding his sheds?

Paul

Paul,

The trick in finding shed antlers is knowing where he is spending most of his time during antler casting season.  After the breeding season this is in two primary locations – bedding and feeding areas.  Find these locations by looking for fresh scat and tracks, which is easier than ever since nothing is growing.  I also keep my trail cameras out over heavily used food plots so I can see when individual bucks are shedding their antlers, narrowing down when/where I should be searching.  Once these areas are located it’s just a matter of searching and sometimes researching likely areas.

My wife, Tracy, has been training a lab puppy to search for antlers.  The mineral content in antlers is unique among bones.  A dog’s nose is much better than human eyes, so if you get serious about finding sheds, consider training a dog as they will cover much more ground and most folks really enjoy watching a trained dog work.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Protecting Deer Forage from Cattle

Question
Grant,

I have a hunting lease in Oklahoma.  The land has cattle on it, the landowners don’t care what food plots I plant as long as I don’t put up a fence.  What would you plant in that field that the cattle won’t eat first?

Rodney

Rodney,

The quickest and most cost effective method to protect quality forage from being browsed by cattle is to use a Gallagher Electric Fence.  Usually a single or double strand of electric wire or tape powered by a solar charger will easily exclude cattle but allow adult deer to simply jump the fence.  This is different from a food plot protection fence where a single strand is placed three feet in front of a second row of fence with two stands.  Using Gallagher fencing, food plots can be established anywhere within the cattle pasture that provides an advantage to the crop and/or hunter.

This technique has been used and refined in Texas and other states where cattle have access to most of the properties.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Chufa

Question
What about Chufa?  I’ve searched the web and wanted to get your advice on using Chufa as a food plot.  What are the pros, cons and your personal experience?  Do you use it on The Proving Grounds?

Andrew

Andrew,

The Proving Grounds is simply too rocky for chufa, which does best in loose soil conditions.  Some of my clients that are die-hard turkey managers do use chufa as part of their program.  The National Wild Turkey Federation has some good information about establishing and maintaining chufa.  Check out their website or contact one of their regional biologists.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Can the antler potential of a mature buck be estimated?

Question
Grant,

We found a matched set of sheds from a main frame 6 x 6 (12 pt) with a gross score of 151.5 without a spread measurement.  You can see them on the Missouri blog at Midwest Whitetail.  We know the buck was a 6 year old this year.  He was coming off a hard winter with no acorns, food plots were eaten off by the first of December, and drought conditions last summer yet he was still able to grow that much horn.  This year we had a bumper crop of acorns, food plots were not hit hard until mid January and in our area we haven’t had as hard of a winter as last year.  If the worst of winter is behind us and we have average or better rainfall this spring and summer, how many inches could this buck add to his rack?  We are located about 150 miles northeast of The Proving Grounds.  Our farm is about 600 acres, with 100 acres of mixed clover hayfields and 20 acres of food plots (wheat, brassicas, clover, and chicory).  Thanks for your help, hope I didn’t kill you with the details!

Ben

Ben,

Deer, like humans, can mature at different rates.  For example, I was the tallest kid in my fifth grade class.  By my freshman year in high school, I wasn’t close to being the tallest in my class.  The same trend is true with deer.  Most follow an average growth and maturation rate.  However, some will express more of their antler growth potential early and some will blossom late in life.  On average, wild, free-ranging deer have expressed most of their antler growth potential by the time they reach six years of age.  However, there are many factors such as weather conditions, wounds, etc., that can cause an individual buck to express more or less of his antler growth potential during any given year.  I hope in 2011 this buck will express more of his antler growth potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Does Roundup Harm Turkeys?

Question
Grant,

I plan on spraying glyphosate on a pasture to kill fescue and plant NWSG.  A friend of mine is telling me that the glyphosate could poison or have a negative affect on the turkey population. What do you think?

Chris

Chris,

To my knowledge glyphosate hasn’t been a problem with turkeys.  Glyphosate is the active ingredient in Roundup, which is used to kill weeds in Roundup Ready crops, like corn and soybeans.  Roundup Ready crops have dominated the agricultural market for the past couple of decades yet turkeys are still thriving.  From personal experience on The Proving Grounds my turkey population has grown tremendously since I began incorporating glyphosate and Roundup Ready crops into my food plot program.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Hunting at The Proving Grounds

Question
Grant,

Are visitors allowed to hunt?

Brooke

Brooke,

Great question!  As a matter of fact, yes.  At least if you call the upcoming shed hunt “hunting.” You are welcome to join us on March 18-20th for the 2nd Annual Shed Hunt to roam The Proving Grounds in search of antlers.

All other “hunting” on The Proving Grounds is reserved for my family and close friends.  Almost everyone in my family enjoys hunting which is a huge blessing but keeps me busy!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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What can I do to rid my property of wild hogs?

Question
I have enjoyed your recent trapping series.  We have our fair share of raccoons and coyotes, however, the bigger problem we have on our property in Mississippi is hogs.  We have heard for years that land south of us had witnessed pigs on their properties and they were expanding north.  Last year was our first time to see them and a year later they are really beginning to hurt our acorn crop and are rooting-up our fields.  We are scared that if the growth continues at this rate our property and the available nutrition for the deer and turkeys could be greatly impacted.

Do you have any wisdom that could help us control these aggressive pests?

Barry

Barry,

I am sorry to hear that hogs have reached your property.  They can wreak havoc.  The most effective method of reducing hog numbers is trapping.  I strongly recommend you attempt to limit the hogs with a very aggressive plan.  This will be much less expensive than the damage they will cause.  This requires setting up a large trap (fenced in area with a gate) that allows a group to fit within.  There are gads of setups out there.  The second recommendation is to never let any leave alive.  Hogs are highly intelligent animals and quick to learn.

In addition to trapping always take the opportunity to remove any you see while hunting or working on the property.  I’ve worked on properties in that part of the world that removed over 180+ hogs per year and they kept on coming.  So buckle down and be prepared for a long road ahead.  I consider wild hogs extremely damaging to native habitat and critters.  I dispatch each one I can.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Planting Corn and Soybeans Together

Question
Grant,

I am a consulting Forester in Pennsylvania and I work mostly on wildlife habitat projects.  I have a client convinced to plant NWSG as well as Eagle Seed soybeans.  I saw in one of your videos that you recommended against planting corn and beans together, but you have photos of a very good stand of corn and beans.  What has been your experience planting them in the same food plot?

Stephen

Stephen,

Good observation, I have planted corn mixed with soybeans in the past.  However, after digging deep in the available research I have found that rotating corn and soybeans instead of mixing them provides better results.  Two of the primary reasons are parasites and disease.  In particular, whenever a crop, say corn, is planted in a food plot year after year the parasites and disease that accompany corn start to build up to a point that they begin to negatively affect yield.  By doing a rotation and planting soybeans instead of corn on some years the corn specific parasites and disease levels quickly fall off.  After a year or two the corn can then be replanted in the food plot with little loss in yield due to these factors.

At minimum, it’s best to split the field and plant half in corn and the other half in soybeans, then rotate the location of each crop the following year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Ponds for deer hunting

Question
Grant,

Most of my hunting is done on a relatively small property.  I’m working on a plan to put in some quality food plots to hold more deer in the area.  The habitat seems to be pretty good but one thing I don’t have is a water source on the property.  I don’t think water is lacking in availability because of two ponds about a quarter of a mile away.  That’s not a long walk for a deer.  Do you think that supplying water on my property would be of significant benefit in holding deer closer to my hunting spot?  If so, do you recommend larger earthen ponds or are trough type watering holes okay too?

Jay

Jay,

It sounds like there is currently no water on your property.  I would recommend providing water on your property to lower the need for deer to be traveling across other properties to get a drink, especially if the urge to drink is during the hunting season.  Water sources don’t have to be large.  The goal is to provide water throughout the year.  In most situations, a few thousand gallons is all that is needed.  I typically establish ponds that are three feet deep at the deepest and about 30’ or less in circumference.  These small ponds, when located in areas with good cover, can be fabulous hunting locations!  I use liners to get the ponds to hold water if the soil at the desired site doesn’t have enough clay content.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Best Switchgrass for a Buffer

Question
Grant,

You were most informative recently at the National Wild Turkey Federation convention.

Which switchgrass do you recommend for a buffer?

Thanks,

Wesley

Wesley,

Thank you for the kind words!  I typically plant Cave-in-Rock switchgrass as a buffer around properties because it grows tall and stands up well to winter wind/snow/sleet.  In addition to screening a property from poachers it also serves well as bedding and fawning cover.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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What food plot variety has the highest protein in the summer? Should I put a trail camera by my food plot?

Question
Grant,

What kind of protein should I be giving the deer?  And should I put a trail camera by my food plot?  I live in Louisiana and our food plots are great but the deer use them as a bedding area.

Shelby

Shelby,

One of the best kinds of protein is that produced by forage soybeans.  Forage soybeans produce highly digestible and high protein leafy forage in the summer and grain in the winter.  I can’t think of a better method of providing high quality protein forage for an extending time of the year.

Food plots are great places for trail cameras.  Deer live and die by their gut so putting a camera over a food source is one of the quickest ways of taking their picture.  I leave my cameras out year-round and the vast majority of them are usually overlooking a food source.  The more pictures you can get of a particular deer, the more you can learn about his particular movement patterns around the property.  While you are running those cameras keep in mind to minimize disturbance so as to not unintentionally condition the deer you wish to hunt to avoid the area during daylight hours.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Average Home Range Size

Question
Grant,

What is the normal range, in square miles, of deer?  How often will they traverse most of that area?

Thanks,

Bob

Bob,

My answer is “that depends.”  As in people, deer appear to all have different personalities.  Does typically have a smaller home range than bucks.  Doe home ranges average around 100-600 acres while buck home ranges are 500-1,500 acres (1 square mile = 640 acres).  Even within each sex there can be a lot of variability.  Just like people, some deer are roamers while others are homebodies.  Yearling bucks often disperse from their mother’s home range and often travel quite far to set up a separate home range from where they were birthed.  Recent research also suggests that as a buck matures his home range decreases in size.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Predators as Table Fare

Question
Grant,

Do you eat the animals you trap such as the raccoons, opossum, and foxes?

Alex

Alex,

No, I do not eat most of the predators I trap.  These animals are generally not considered to be table fare.  However, I do tan their hides and use them to educate school children and others interested in wildlife.  They are also used as decorative pieces in my home and as gifts to friends.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Can Salt Harm Deer?

Question
Many people are putting out salt blocks, or in some cases water softener salt, for deer.  I’ve always been taught that too much sodium can actually harm the digestive process of deer or cause them to drink so much water that it can replace nutrients. Is this true?

Thanks,

Dean

Dean,

I never worry about deer consuming too much salt.  Most critters, including deer, need a lot of salt for their bodies to function properly.  I’m not aware of any cases of free-ranging deer consuming too much salt.  That would be hard to monitor, but with all the salt available from cattle licks, gas and oil drilling, etc., there is a lot of salt available in many areas yet no reports of deer suffering from ingesting too much salt.

I am concerned about some sources of salt that folks make available to deer.  Salt marketed for different purposes often has different additives to make it flow better, bleached to make it a different color, etc.  It is certainly possible that these additives could be detrimental to deer and other wildlife.  Therefore, I only use feed grade salt for wildlife.  I personally use Trophy Rock as it has 60+ trace minerals.  Although deer only need very small quantities of trace minerals to express their full fawn and antler growth potential, without them included in their diet, they simply can’t express their full genetic potential.  Therefore, when supplying salt to deer, attempt to use a product that is food grade quality and has as many different trace minerals as practical.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Soft Mass

Question
Grant,

Are you planting any soft mast, like apples and crabapples, for your wildlife/deer?  Is there a nutritional role for soft mast in your wildlife management plan at The Proving Grounds?

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

That’s a good question.  Soft mast is an important part of wildlife’s diet during several times of the year.  However I typically don’t go out of my way to plant them because they are very labor intensive for the return on my property.  I do actively promote the growth of soft mast species with periodic burning and timber thinning.  Both of these techniques open up the forest canopy and reduce competition from invasive or exotic plants.  Ripe soft mast during the hunting season can be a dynamite hunting location.  In my neck of the woods persimmon groves are great places to be hunting during early bow season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Do You Use Bait?

Question
Do you use any bait like apples, corn, beets or carrots?  Do you use minerals?

TJ

TJ,

I have Trophy Rock out year around.  I place corn out during August for three weeks so I can attract deer to a location to do a camera survey.  Other than that, I don’t use any attractants or baits.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Pasture Grass for Deer?

Question
If a fellow wants to create a horse pasture that is deer friendly what is the best seed mixture to use?

Blessings in abundance,

Wilson

Wilson,

Deer don’t eat orchard grass – or any pasture grass.  They will eat the clover, but the grass will outcompete the clover for nutrients.  Seeing clover grow and deer getting good nutrients from clover are different.  Certainly deer will benefit from the clover more than solid grass.  However, it is like fishing from ski boat versus a bass boat.  It can be done, but not as well.

I would use a Gallagher fence in a portion of the horse pasture.  This will simply (and relatively inexpensively) exclude the horses and quality deer forage can be established and maintained.  Another huge advantage of this is that the owner will know exactly where the deer will feed – not just simply watching an entire horse pasture.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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The Best Food Plot Crop

Question
What is the best food source for a food plot in the St. Louis, Missouri region?

Brehdin

Brehdin,

The best crop to plant for deer depends on several factors including, but not limited to:

  1. The time of year to be planted.
  2. The time of year it’s desired to feed deer.
  3. Whether the mission for the plot is primarily to attract or provide nutritious forage or grain for deer.
  4. The size of the food plot, etc.

You might look through Grant’s Answer’s in the food plots category on GrowingDeer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Keeping Cattle out of Food Plots

Question
Last fall I planted a small plot of white clover (1/4 to 1/2 acre).  It did not germinate as we did not receive any rain before the frost.  Will it come up this spring?

Also, I hunt a 180 acre cattle farm in northwest Tennessee.  I have two small areas that I can keep the cows out of that I plant.  Any advice on managing for deer while working around cattle would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the helpful videos!

Nate

Nate,

If weeds didn’t grow in the plot, then the clover seeds may germinate.  However, I’d suggest you deal with any weeds that have germinated and then reseed the plot.

It’s relatively easy to keep cows out of a food plot and allow deer to enter by using a Gallagher electric fence designed for such purpose.  Electric fences are commonly used for such purposes and keep cows away from feeders while allowing deer access to them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Effectiveness of Trapping

Question
With your predator trapping program, do you do any kind of survey to measure its effectiveness?  I remember an episode where you stated most of the animals you trapped were yearling males who were probably recolonizing the area.  Do you do anything to document that your trapping efforts in January are still noticeable in the spring during nesting and fawning season?  Has your catch per unit effort or anything changed since you first started trapping?

Ryan

Ryan,

I do record the species, gender, and weight of each critter trapped at The Proving Grounds.  I haven’t analyzed the data, but is certainly appears that there are fewer raccoons and opossums at The Proving Grounds for awhile after trapping season.  However, by August there are several raccoons visiting our camera survey bait sites again.  Another measure is that I’ve caught 45 to 55 raccoons and opossums each year for the past four years at The Proving Grounds.  The critters I catch are now almost all male and yearlings.  It appears I’m removing a high percentage of the predators, but yearling males disperse and fill the open habitat by the next year.  However, effectiveness should be measured by the number of predators that are still reduced during the fawning and nesting season.  I haven’t addressed when the predators are recolonizing after trapping with a research project.  The turkey population has increased substantially at The Proving Grounds during the past few years, but I can’t state with certainty the relationship between this increase and removing predators.

Trapping is a viable wildlife management tool.  With fur prices being significantly reduced for years, it seems the predator/prey populations are out of balance in many areas.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Modern Ag practices

Question
Hello Dr. Woods,

I own some property in Mississippi and I was wondering how today’s agriculture practices affect deer herds using them.  The farmers who have been farming our place have been planting corn year after year.  They begin in March which means the corn is out by the end of August.  They don’t rotate corn and soybeans anymore because the deer ate the farmers’ soybeans.

Geoghegan

Geoghegan,

A corn/soybean rotation, especially if corn and soybeans are both available within close proximity, provides great deer forage and grain.  Corn has the added benefit of providing great cover from when it is two feet tall until it is harvested and soybeans have the added benefit of providing high quality forage throughout much of the growing season.  Advances in combine efficiency results in less spilled grain now than during previous years.

No doubt areas of intensive corn and soybean production can produce great whitetails!  However, the productivity of such areas is determined by the local farming practices.  For example, if the fields are tilled shortly after being harvested there won’t be much grain available.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Where is the best place to create cover for whitetails?

Question
I am planning to create some thickets by hinge cutting some 8 year old trees.  How big of an area would I need to hinge cut to have a impact on providing bedding or creating browse?  Would it be better to do edges 10 yards deep around food plots or a much larger 1 acre area not associated with a food plot?

Thank you, I look forward each week to the topic or your next video.

Gary 

Gary,

Where you create cover depends on your mission.  If you are trying to encourage deer to enter a food source earlier, creating cover along the edge may be a good plan.  However, if your mission is to create cover for deer to use for bedding or escaping predators, then a larger area would be much better than a thin strip along a food plot.  I like cover areas that are at least 10 acres or large in size.  Predators such as coyotes can probably smell deer in smaller cover blocks.  In addition, human scent can easily carry through a one acre cover block.  For the cover block to serve as a sanctuary, consider making the cover block larger in size.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Thick or Thin for Deer Cover?

Question
Can the woods on a property be too thick or too open for good deer cover?  I am 56 and recently bought land (98 acres) to fulfill a lifelong dream.  It was cut over 8 years ago and is extremely thick in some places.  I try to observe this characteristic on your videos and it looks fairly open around the food plots/woods to me.

James

James,

The “woods” on a property can certainly be too open for good deer cover.

It would be very difficult for woods to be too thick.  Good escape cover for deer is usually so thick that humans don’t like to walk (or crawl) through the area.  Prescribed fire or other tools can be used to thin a portion of your woods if they are too thick and are lowering the recreational quality of your property.

The timber on my property had been mismanaged, at least from a wildlife habitat point of view, for decades.  There was no cover on The Proving Grounds when I purchased the property.  However, I’ve cut trees, used prescribed fire, etc., to open the canopy and allow ground level vegetation to grow.  You can see some of the cover I’ve established by watching GDTV #15.  Better yet, come and tour The Proving Grounds during the 2nd Annual Shed Hunt as we will be discussing habitat improvements during that weekend!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hidey Hole Plots near Bedding Areas

Question
Grant,

We have 160 acres, most of which contain native prairie grass.  The native prairie grasses are full of cedar trees (some are 50+ years old) in most areas from neglect.  We also have large oak stands.  We have ponds and the property has 100′ of elevation change from one end to the other.  Our neighbors have 400+ acres; together we have a nice remote location for the deer. The deer travel to the lower bean fields to graze and return.  I want to clear places for deer and create some low maintenance food plots (e.g. buckwheat).  I can make the opening small (1/2 acre) or large (up to several acres).  What options for size and shape are optimal for deer in making openings?  I can either create the food plots or let the native grass return.

Thank you!

Jay

Jay,

It sounds as if you have a neat property!  If the soybeans and other local production ag fields are providing year round food for the deer herd, then water and cover could be limited resources in your area.  The hunting on your property might be improved by establishing some small attraction plots for deer so they would have a place to feed while returning to cover.  If this is the case, crops that are prime during the fall, such as winter wheat, would function well and are easy establish.  I call such spots “hidey holes” and they can be fabulous hunting locations!  Remember to locate the plots so that you can approach and remain undetected by the deer you wish to hunt.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Selecting Locations for New Food Plots

Question
Grant,

My hunting lease has diverse terrain.  One part is on a hill covered in post oak and cedar but drops off approximately 40′ into a creek bottom covered in water oak, yaupon and briars.  In past years we have not utilized food plots or feeders, so patterning deer movement and concentration has been difficult.  In the absence of a food plot, can you shed some light on which terrain the deer would prefer?  We plan on establishing two soybean plots and one clover plot this year, with the clover just off the creek in the bottom and the soybeans in a terrain transition area.  Is this a good idea or bad?  Any suggestions will be most welcomed.

Thanks,

Chance

Chance,

The more similar the habitat, the more difficult it is to pattern deer.  This is because there are no limited resources that are more valuable than others to attract deer.  For example, if the entire property has oaks, then hunting acorns is probably not a good strategy.  It sounds as if high quality forage would be a limited resource and therefore very attractive to deer on your property!  Remember that deer are usually more concerned about surviving than eating.  So even if the food plots are the only quality forage in the neighborhood, deer, especially mature bucks, will avoid the plots during daylight hours if they associate them with danger.

I would be careful about establishing the clover plot by the creek if flooding is probable.  Another consideration is that if hunting is a primary mission for these plots, locate them where it’s to the hunter’s advantage to approach and hunt without alerting deer.  Usually the wind swirls less on ridge tops compared to bottomland locations.  Unless the soil is extremely low quality, I tend to establish hunting food plots on ridge tops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

 

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Why am I getting trail camera photos of spotted fawns in November and December?

Question
Hello,

We hunt in north central Mississippi.  For several years now I have caught pictures of fawns born really late on my trail cameras.  I have pictures of some (but not all) fawns still with spots and/or suckling milk from their mother in November and December.   What biologically can be going on with these late fawns?  It seems to me that it can’t be a good thing.  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much!!

Denton

Denton,

Fawns are typically born late in portions of Mississippi and Alabama.  As a manager, I worry more about the duration than the timing of fawning season.  If you are seeing small, spotted fawns for more than three consecutive months it may be an indicator that the adult sex ratio is skewed toward does.  This would result from an extended rut and therefore fawns being born over an extended period of time.  This has several negative ramifications for the herd including allowing predators to key in on fawns and abnormally high stress on bucks.  You, and all deer managers, need to collect simple harvest data to monitor the herd’s health and be able to make sound, site-specific management decisions.  Herds with characteristics as described above usually have lower body weights than normal for the local habitat.  Collect some simple, but accurate data and you can make some good assessments of the herd’s health and appropriate changes to the deer and habitat program.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Processing Pelts

Question

Grant,

As a novice hunter I spend a lot of time trying to separate fact from fiction and folklore. I’ve been told that you can process a pelt using the organs of the animal i.e. brains, liver, etc.  Is this fact, fiction, or folklore?

Thanks for GrowingDeer.tv.  I’m learning a lot from your site.

RJ

RJ,

I’ve read about using brains from some critters to tan pelts.  However, I don’t have any experience with that technique.  Let me know if you give it a try.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Dispatching Trapped Predators

Question

Hi Dr. Grant,

I just watched your latest video on trapping (GDTV #63).  What method do you use to dispatch the animals you trap?  I have really learned a lot from your videos.  Thanks for all the good information.

Tom

Tom,

I use a .22 caliber rifle or pistol and administer a single shot to the head.  This provides a quick and humane result.

I always consider what’s behind the target, and unload the .22 before continuing with my activities.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Dogless Traps

Question

What brand of dogless traps do you use?  Where can I find them?

Thanks,

Howard

Howard,

I have been using the Lil Griz brand of dogless traps.  However, there are some new models coming out for 2011.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Beans for Clay Soil?

Question

Good morning,

I live in the Piedmont area of Georgia in Augusta.  I have a small tract of land with good surrounding tracts around me.  What type of beans can I grow in a soil that is mostly clay?  What can I plant in the same soil in the fall that will help grow healthier deer?  I have children that are starting to hunt with me now and my biggest goal this year is to help them take their first deer.

Thank you,

Eric

Eric,

Eagle Seed’s forage beans will grow in the Georgia clay soils.  I have several friends that grow them throughout the Piedmont of Georgia and South Carolina.  Make sure to collect a soil sample and have it tested at a soil lab so you will know how much lime and fertilizer to add to ensure the crop will grow and express its full potential!  Healthy soybeans certainly help deer express their full potential and are a forage that deer find very palatable.

My girls have both harvested deer that were in plots planted with Eagle Seed beans.  Deer consume the forage during the growing season and the grain the beans produce during the fall/winter.  Good quality forage soybeans are truly a two season crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Producing Mature Bucks

Question

I have 1,100 acres near Ava with about 250 acres in pasture and the rest are typical Ozarks hills.  I have about 15 acres in food plots, with the main food sources being clovers with turnips and some winter wheat.  I can’t seem to keep bucks to the older ages.  What should I do to draw and hold older class bucks?  Since you have been here awhile you know what we have to deal with as to neighbors, etc.

Kirk (Missouri)

Kirk,

That sounds like a nice property with lots of potential to produce mature bucks.  Producing mature bucks requires protecting them from being harvested or killed by predators until they reach the age class that you wish to harvest.  The habitat in “typical Ozark hills” doesn’t provide much cover.  Therefore hunters and predators can have a huge impact on deer, especially bucks after the rut.  In addition, without adequate cover, hunters must willfully withhold from harvesting bucks until the bucks reach the level of maturity that hunters wish to harvest.  Mature bucks can be produced on almost any 1,100 acre property if that’s the hunter’s objective.  Trigger finger control is the primary tool for producing mature bucks.

However, there is a big difference between producing mature bucks and producing mature bucks that have expressed their full antler growth potential.  To produce mature bucks that express their full antler development potential requires improving the habitat unless the property has quality forage and grain production.  It’s helpful to remember that the majority of deer in northern Missouri where world class bucks are produced were stocked from the Ozarks.  Hence, deer with the same genetics that have access to quality forage and grain clearly express much more of their antler growth, fawn production, and body size potential.  To allow deer in the Ozarks (or any area that doesn’t produce quality forage and grain) to express their potential requires lots of habitat work.

My property, The Proving Grounds, is extremely steep and rocky.  There is no quality forage or grain produced within miles (counties).  In addition, there are 34 neighboring properties, none of which share my deer management objectives that I’m aware.  However, by providing quality food, cover, and water, bucks at my place are producing antlers similar to deer in northern Missouri of the same age class.  Given you are only an hour from me, I’m very confident you can achieve the same results.  I encourage you to attend one of our field days and see in person the techniques I’ve used to provide quality food, cover, and water.  There are simply too many details to provide in this format.  The next event is our 2nd Annual Shed Hunt where we will collect sheds and tour much of my property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Coyote Hunting

Question

Grant,

I would like to try coyote hunting but I don’t know how to start.  Will you have a episode about coyote hunting?

Edward

Edward,

I enjoy coyote hunting and consider it a part of my deer management work.

Coyotes currently have a large negative impact on deer herds throughout much of the whitetails’ range.  I do plan to film a coyote hunt or two in the next few weeks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Ideal Food Plot Crops & Acreage

Question

Grant,

I have 220 acres of hunting ground in Northeast Arkansas.  I only have about 3-4 acres of food plot areas.  What should I plant to take full advantage of my small planting sites?  Should I clear more ground for more food plots?  What is a good ratio of food plot acreage to total acreage?

Thanks and have a great day.

Luke

Luke,

What crops to plant and how many acres to plant are both somewhat dependent on the local deer density.  For example, if the deer density is low and very palatable crops can grow without being over-browsed in the existing plots, then forage soybeans and corn are a great choice to provide the protein and carbohydrates necessary for deer to express their full potential.  If the local deer population is relatively high, then consider either adding more acres of food plots or protecting the crops in the existing plots until they can withstand the browse pressure with a Gallagher Food Plot Protection Fence.

The number of deer per square mile can vary significantly from property to property.  Therefore there is no standard ratio of the amount of food plots to total acres.  If the deer management mission is for deer to express their full potential of antler and fawn development, then there should be adequate quality forage and grain so that deer have all they want to consume during the late summer and late winter stress periods.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Changing Patterns

Question

I hunt on a small 40 acre property with very little hunting pressure.  Recently a new neighbor moved in and their dogs have been chasing the deer.  Because of this the deer have changed their patterns and it has made hunting very hard.  Luckily the dogs have finally been penned up, but the deer patterns are still messed up. What are some tips to make it a better season next year?

Stephen

Stephen,

Dogs and other predators can easily cause deer, especially mature bucks, to change their pattern.  Be thankful your neighbor began keeping his dogs on his property!  It’s likely that the deer will return to using their traditional patterns by next hunting season.

Deer need food, cover, and water.  I suggest you determine which of these habitat features are limited in the neighborhood and supply them on the property you hunt.  A good strategy is always to identify a limiting factor and supply it in an area that allows you to approach a stand or blind without alerting deer to your presence.  Identifying limiting factors is always a good strategy on any property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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High Desert Food Plots

Question

Grant,

Is it possible to utilize food plots in the west?  I live just west of Denver in an area that is very populated with elk and mule deer.  The area that I hunt/live in is considered high mountain desert at around 7500 feet of elevation and receives 18-20 inches of rainfall a year.  I have full access to about 100 acres of private property that is surrounded by private property on all sides for miles.  The terrain is rugged with a mix of open/park-like ponderosa pine stands on the south facing slopes and dense Douglas Fir/Spruce stands on the north.  The only water is found in the drainages and it is seasonal.  Is it possible to grow or propagate anything useful to elk or deer in an area like this?

Thanks in advance,

Josh

Josh,

I’ve had food plots in a very similar elevation and climate in New Mexico.  We planted brassicas and the elk loved them!  Concentrated food is rare in such environments and is very attractive to elk.  I recommend collecting soil samples and fertilizing according to recommendations from a soil lab.  Then plant a mix of winter wheat and forage brassicas.  I think you will be pleased with the results.  I’m willing to bring my bow and do some research during September!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plots Must Be Fed

Question

Grant,

I have 120 acres in northern Missouri.  I planted my first food plot last year with decent results but I had issues with my corn and other plants not reaching full size.  I am planting Eagle Seed beans this season with some type of annual.  Do you have any suggestions for which annual and what type of fertilizer to use?

Thank you,

Dustin

 

Dustin,

Last year most of northern Missouri received feet (literally) of rain more than average.  In places, many of the soil nutrients were likely leached below reach of the plants.  This resulted in small, hungry plants.

Remember plants consume food just like deer, and when they consume the available nutrients in the soil, fertilizer must be added for the next crop to grow well.  Therefore it is very important to sample the soil in food plots each year and add lime and fertilizer according to the recommendation from the soil lab.

Make sure and tell the soil lab what crops you plan to grow so they can recommend the correct type and amount of fertilizer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Inoculate Eagle Seed beans?

Question

Do you inoculate your Eagle Seed beans?

Taylor

Taylor,

Recent research shows that soybeans often yield more if they are inoculated.  I inoculate the Eagle Seed beans I plant based on that research and because that practice is relatively inexpensive compared to the other food plot establishment costs.  Inoculation is very important if soybeans haven’t been grown in the plot to be planted during the past year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Can Deer Digest Hay in the Winter?

Question

We just received 2 feet of snow.  Would it be a good idea to put out a few bales of hay for the deer?  Or would it actually harm the deer because their digestive systems can’t handle the hay this time of the year?

Thanks,

Don

Don,

Great question that currently applies to much of the whitetails’ range!

Providing feed that deer are not used to digesting, especially when they are stressed, can cause them great harm or result in death.  This is because deer only ingest the food (which they will gladly do during periods of stress), bacteria populations that live in their gut perform most of the digestion.  There are many species of bacteria in a deer’s gut and each species is somewhat specific to digesting different types of food.  Food sources in nature tend to become available and unavailable slowly over time.  For example, a few acorns will fall early and then more and more will fall until the supply will taper off.  The species of bacteria that helps digest acorns increases and decreases in population density in accordance with the quantity of acorns ingested.  However, when food resources are very limited, the population of bacteria decreases significantly.

If a deer herd that is stressed by a significant amount of snow suddenly finds a rich food source such as grain or high quality hay, they will consume large quantities.  However, they won’t have an adequate amount of bacteria in their digestive tract to digest the ingested food.  This is why deer given emergency supplemental food during periods of winter stress often die with a stomach full of the food provided by folks with great intentions.  All supplemental feeding programs should start slowly and be very closely monitored (if started at all).  This is especially true during periods of stress such as during winter storms.

You were wise to ask first!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What does the “G” in G1 stand for?

Question

When measuring deer antlers, does the “G” (as in G1) have a direct connection to a word?  So far, nobody can tell me what word the G stands for.

Thanks,

Clark

Clark,

That’s a good question.  I called a friend at Boone and Crockett and he stated that it is simply a use of alphabetical order on the score sheet.  On the whitetail score sheet, A is for the greatest spread, B is for the number of points, etc.  G simply was in order for the data of tine length.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which Eagle Seed Variety Should I Use?

Question

Dr. Grant,

I have been talking to the good folks at Eagle Seed about their bean species and have placed my order for this year’s seed.  Have you had experiences with Large Lad, Big Fellow, or Managers Mix?  If so, what were the results as far as production and deer preference?  I will be planting the Eagle Seed beans this spring in the southeast region of Kansas and would like your opinion on what bean seed to try.  I am planting three plots totaling 12 to 14 acres.

Also, I already have a 17 acre field of clover on this farm and would like to plant two or three small 1/4 to 1/2 acre plots.  What would you recommend for variety in these areas?

Thank you,

Lee

Lee,

I have planted the Eagle Seed Large Lad and Big Fellow varieties and the Game Keeper blend at The Proving Grounds and at client properties literally throughout most of the whitetails’ range.  Both Large Lad and Big Fellow are excellent forage producers!  From my experience, Large Lad seems to produce a bit more grain (pods).  This is a plus when the plots are managed (as several of mine are) as 10 month + plots.  Deer consume the forage and then consume the pods.  The only time Large Lad is not attracting and feeding deer is when I prepare the plot for replanting and the time necessary for germination.

Big Fellow seems to be a bit more drought resistant.  I use this variety where the conditions are a bit more droughty (sandy soils, west facing slopes, etc.).  The Game Keeper blend has Large Lad and Big Fellow plus a climbing/viney variety that will produce forage extremely late into the growing season.  It a good option if you are unsure of the conditions where the plots will be planted.  Eagle Seed’s web site has a detailed description of each variety/blend.

There are gads and gads of clover varieties.  I doubt any of them will provide forage throughout the entire growing season in southeastern Kansas unless it is an abnormally wet year.  Clover is a great crop to use to cover the gap in time between early spring and when the temperatures become warm enough for more productive forage crops (like forage soybeans) to produce.

Given this, I usually plant about 10% or less of my food plots in clover and the remainder in a more productive forage crop.  When clover is growing actively it produces gads of forage during a short timeframe.  Therefore, not much acreage is needed.  The exact percentage of the plots that should be planted in clover will vary from property to property depending on growing conditions and the number of deer using the plots.  However, I would suspect that a 17 acre field of clover produces more forage than the local herd consumes during early spring and provides almost no quality forage during the late summer or late winter (the two critical stress periods).  Late winter is a good time to review the productivity of food plots so the plan can be tweaked for the next planting season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Fertilizer Spikes

Question

Have you ever used fertilizer spikes to “sweeten” acorns and would this even work?  Would lime or some other fertilizer around oak trees be effective?  The theory is that it will make one specific band of oaks more desirable than others.

Jack

Jack,

I’m not aware of any research that proves acorns from fertilized oaks are more palatable to deer than from non fertilized oaks.  Certainly fertilizing oaks won’t result in the same increase in food yield as fertilizing a forage crop like soybeans.  This is because a much greater percentage of a soybean plant is palatable to deer than an oak tree.  However, fertilizing pecan trees has proven to increase pecan production.  I think it’s a safe assumption that adding enough fertilizer to oaks would also yield an increase in nut production, and possibly a nut that tastes better to deer.  I doubt that a few fertilizer spikes will add enough nutrients to impact the quantity or quality of nuts produced by a mature oak tree.  Remember that the entire tree is using the fertilizer, not just the acorns.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Events at The Proving Grounds

Question

Grant,

My name is Jacob and I am turning 17 this February.  I think I’ve seen every one of your videos, I love what you do!  When is your next Shed Hunt or Field Day and is it open to the public for people like me?  I know from the videos you charge a small fee.  I would love to be a part of an event at The Proving Grounds.

Jake (New York)

Jake,

Thank you for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  Our 2nd Annual Shed Hunt is scheduled for March 18th-20th.  You are correct in that we charge just enough to cover expenses (hotel room, meals, hat, great prizes, etc.).  I really enjoy sharing what we’ve learned at The Proving Grounds (and other places we work) with fellow hunters and deer managers and learning from them during these events.  There will be several guests from the hunting industry attending also and they love to talk deer with our guests.

I hope to meet you during March!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Start Habitat Projects

Question

I need to clear an elongated “S” shaped swath down in my timber bottom to create a killing plot for bowhunting.  I have already determined the size and location.  However, I have found little information on what time of year will impact the deer the least.  Having a bulldozer and chainsaws running will cause a considerable amount of noise.  There are bedding areas less than 100 yards from where this plot will be located.  Your insight would be greatly appreciated.

Ron

Ron,

Most habitat improvement projects cause a temporary disturbance to deer, especially during the daylight hours.  However, as long as the project is finished and the improvement (food, cover, or water) in place at least a few weeks before deer season, deer usually readily adapt to the new habitat feature.  This is proven over and over again during pond construction, planting of ag or CRP fields, etc.  Usually there will be deer tracks on top of the dozer tracks every morning during the construction phase.  Deer, especially mature deer, rarely leave their home range because of construction disturbance of that scale.  They will certainly adapt their behavior to avoid disturbed areas while the disturbance is occurring, but usually check it out at night and readily use the habitat feature during daylight hours soon after they sense no danger is present.  I believe my hunting activities at these habitat improvement areas likely alert deer more than the activities associated with creating them.  So, start the project anytime you want and try to finish it at least a month before deer season.  Then slip in with much caution and enjoy the fruits of your labor during deer season!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Birdsfoot Trefoil

Question

Hey Grant,

I work for a conservation organization in northern Arkansas.  I’ve had numerous landowners ask about establishing birdsfoot trefoil as a longer lived perennial legume in food plots on sandy well-drained soils.  Is it too hot and dry to establish and maintain birdsfoot trefoil here?  I haven’t run across anyone that has any experience with its use in food plots or forages for cattle.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Bob

 

 

Bob,

I haven’t planted birdsfoot trefoil in the Ozarks.  Where I have tried it, I wasn’t overly impressed.  This crop requires more management than the return in forage it yielded for my preference.  Rarely do the long-lived legumes (alfalfa, trefoil, etc.) do well in an uncontrolled browsing environment like a food plot.  If you or your contacts give it a try, I’d like to hear about the results!

Growing Deer (and crops) together,

Grant

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Shooting Off a Hard Surface

Question

Grant,

Great job on the info on your shows!  I look forward to it every week!

What would your recommendation be for after the gun is sighted in off a bench and someone would be shooting on a hard surface (like an enclosed blind)?  A sand bag?

Thanks a lot!

Cory

Cory,

Thank you for the kind words!  I would recommend a sand bag or a piece of foam pipe insulation, etc.  I’ve noticed that rifles with a truly free-floating barrel rarely have the “hard surface bounce factor.”  However, if you have any doubt, consider firing some test shots during the off season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Outer Armour Blinds

Question

In your last episode (GDTV 52) I noticed what appears to be a very nice ground blind that you all were using.  Do you like the blind?  If so, where could a person get information on it?  I really appreciate what you are doing for all of us with your show.

Thank you,

Jim

Jim,

Thank you for the kind words!  My daughters and I were hunting out of an Outer Armour blind.  It is a well constructed blind.  The windows are a bit high for most hunters.  I’m 6′ tall and I have to stretch a bit to shoot out of the blind.  I use pads in the chair to elevate my daughters.  The blind is very warm and quiet, but extremely heavy to move.

Grant

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Changing the Pattern on a Shotgun

Question

Grant,

How do you change the pattern on a shotgun?

If I don’t have access to another shotgun would a .22 be legal to use for turkey?

Edward

Edward,

The easiest way, if the gun has a removable choke, is to change the choke.   If the barrel is solid, then changing the choke is a very technical chore that I’ve never attempted.  I’d recommend leaving that task to a skilled gunsmith or simply using another gun.

Each state has different regulations.  Most states don’t allow the use of .22’s for turkey hunting, but you will have to check the regulations for the state where you plan to hunt.  You should spend some time testing the pattern of your shotgun at different distances and you will learn at what distances the pattern is appropriate for turkey hunting.  My daughters use a youth model 20 gauge and it holds a good pattern to approximately 25 yards.  That’s far enough that my oldest daughter, Raleigh, harvested a mature tom last year!

Growing Deer together!

Grant

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Dogless Traps

Question

Grant,

I am 16 years old and love to hunt and fish.  I spend more time in the field than at home.  I noticed you used dogless traps in your video and I am very interested in them.  Will you let me know who they are made by and how to find them?

Thanks,

Bobby

Bobby,

I was using Lil Griz traps.  They are for sale at several websites.  I shared some additional tips that I’ve learned about using Lil Griz traps on GDTV 63.  They are a great style of dogless trap for raccoons, opossums, and even a few gray foxes.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Becoming a Wildlife Biologist

Question

Dr. Woods,

My name is Matt and I am a third year college student (working toward a degree in Urban Forestry and Arboriculture).  I have been watching all of your videos.  The projects you do and the things you are able to study are incredible.  After watching your show and seeing your title of wildlife biologist I started looking into careers in wildlife biology.  I am seriously considering changing my plans and staying in school for a bit longer and getting a degree in Wildlife Management/Biology with a minor in Conservation Biology.  I was hoping that you could give me some pointers and tips about this field of study and the career opportunities (possibly even a job outlook).  I am passionate about white-tailed deer as I am a bow hunter through and through and everything else is merely done to pass the time until bow season.  I have taken a great interest in altering the habitat on our family owned land and my next project is to ease into trapping with the help of one of my knowledgeable friends.

Any knowledge and information you can share with me to guide me would be greatly appreciated.  It really means a lot to me to get some insight and guidance from someone so successful in this field.  Thank you very much for your time in reading this.

Sincerely,

Matt (Wisconsin)

Matt,

I’ve addressed several questions about becoming a wildlife biologist.  You might check out my answer to Getting Involved and use the search feature to find more answers.  I strongly believe that most folks can be successful at any occupation that they are passionate about.  That doesn’t mean entering or advancing in that occupation will be easy or profitable.  You should know that passion about hunting is not the same as passion about being a wildlife biologist.  The two certainly complement each other.  However, many wildlife biologists (including myself) spend more time helping other hunters and landowners than we do hunting.  My strongest suggestion for you would be to spend a summer as an intern with a wildlife biologist that works in a specific area of your choosing.  Spending a summer, even on a volunteer basis, is much less expensive in terms of dollars and time, then changing your degree and finding out that it was a bad choice.  I believe that internships or similar programs are extremely beneficial to folks deciding which career path to take.  I volunteered a summer through the Student Conservation Organization when I was a junior in college.  I worked for the Bureau of Land Management at the Elko, Nevada District.  I was only paid $25 per week and provided a small trailer for living quarters.  It was a fabulous experience.  My best counsel for you is to do an internship and see what being a wildlife biologist is really like before making a huge change in your degree program.

Experience is the best teacher!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Supplying Nutritional Needs

Question

Grant,

I hunt a small 50 acre woods containing hardwoods and thick cover.  I hunted last year for the first time.  Although I do not own the land I am the only one who hunts it.  I have permission from the owner to do what I need as long as it doesn’t pertain to the fields.  It has a lot of acorns and this year it had corn on three sides (the front side is a county road).  I saw several large rubs and a few decent sized scrapes.  I harvested a few does but was unable to harvest a mature buck.  What can I do to help buck growth?  Mineral licks?  What are your suggestions for my little piece of heaven?

Thank you for your time,

David

David,

Sounds as if you have a nice place to hunt!  Having commercial agriculture on three sides should supply most of a deer’s nutritional needs.  This is especially true if there is both corn and soybeans available within the deer’s range.  Corn is very high in energy, but not protein.  This is why deer having access to both corn and soybeans provides a much better diet.  The toughest part of hunting 50 acres is making sure you don’t repeatedly spook deer from the area.  I strongly suggest you always approach the area with the wind in your favor and avoid over hunting the area.

Trophy Rock provides 60+ trace minerals.  Deer need a very small quantity of each of the minerals to express their full potential.  By placing a couple of Trophy Rocks in the area you hunt would insure that each of these trace minerals are available to the deer that use that area!  Take care of the landowner as it sounds as if you have permission to hunt a great location!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shed Antlers

Question

Hi Grant,

Do you think this shed is from this season or last season?

Thanks,

Walter

Walter,

The shed looks very clean to me.  Rodent populations vary in density throughout the whitetails range, but it’s rare that rodents, coyotes, etc., don’t leave some teeth marks during 12 months.  Given that, I think it’s a good assumption that the shed was dropped recently.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Clover for Food Plots?

Question

I have only had my property for about 1 1/2 years.  I am new to all this and have lots of questions.  I have 80 acres with a small stream going all the way through it and a 6 acre pond. No food plots yet.  I have some clover but it’s too close to the hunting cabin.  I have about 1 to 3 acres of open ground that I want to put in a food plot.  I am thinking more clover but would like to  hear your thoughts. I have a tractor but not a plow. I know a cattle farmer who might be able to till up the land for me.

Thanks,

Pat (Ohio)

Pat,

It sounds as if you’ve been blessed with a wonderful piece of creation!  All food plot crops have strong and weak points, so it’s best to pick the crop that fits your mission.  If year round nutrition is the goal, then it’s tough to beat a corn/soybean combination.  However, if the local deer density is too high, they will consume all of your crops before deer season.

Clover is very good during the early spring and fall.  However, it usually goes dormant during the warmer summer months, especially if it is dry.  Clover is always dormant during the winter — providing no food for nutrition or attraction.

Enjoy your property!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broad-based Dips

Question

I am a hunter and landowner interested in the techniques that you have for stopping road erosion.

Pat

Pat,

Road systems are one of the most important aspects of any property.  In many cases they also require the most attention of all management activities.  By installing a few structures these maintenance costs can be significantly reduced.

The main cause of road degradation is water movement.  When water accumulates on a road surface and has no way of getting off it builds up momentum.  This accumulation and momentum lifts gravel and other sediments and carries it down the hill.  With this known the main goal of any road project is to get the water off the road surface as quickly as possible.

A system that works well is the creation of broad-based dips (BBD).  A BBD forces water to run off and across a roadway while allowing smooth travel by vehicles.  When determining placement of a BBD look for natural dips in the road that may need only minimal modifications to remove water from the road surface.  Also, try to preplan where BBDs will be positioned before beginning.  Generally, BBDs should be every 20 or 30 yards depending on slope.  A BBD should be positioned at a 30-45 degree angle to the roadway.  Start by removing soil from the uphill portion of the road and dumping on the lower portion until the dip is of sufficient depth to cause water to run off the road during all rainfall events.  When creating the dip, slope the entire dip and 20 feet of the road above the dip, toward the edge of the road.  The entire BBD will require a minimum of 30 feet to allow smooth travel of vehicles and equipment over the BBD surface.  Rock may be placed on the outflow portion of the BBD to slow water and reduce erosion.  Rock is not necessary if adequate vegetation is present after BBD completion.  Once a BBD is completed use the entire surface of the road when traveling over it.  By spreading the vehicle compaction and wear across the surface of the BBD, little maintenance will be required in the future.

BBDs are a great tool to stop erosion of roads.  I use them extensively at The Proving Grounds.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mineral Rocks

Question

What is a mineral rock?

Ken

Ken,

A “mineral rock,” at least as I use the term, is a Trophy Rock.  Trophy Rock is simply a “rock” mined from a deposit of sea minerals in Utah.  There are only three such veins of salt sea minerals known in the world.  In other salt deposits, the minerals settled out and left just salt.  Each of the known salt sea mineral deposits have a slightly different composition.  I like the mineral composition in the vein that Trophy Rock mines in Utah.  It is 100% natural and a great blend of 60+ minerals that benefits deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Best Cover Crop

Question

I have a property in Kansas that also has cattle on it.  What tall cover is available to plant when trying to hold more deer?

Thanks,

Darren

Darren,

It is tough to develop cover when cattle have access to the area.  Most new crops that would be used for cover, such as native warm season grasses (switchgrass, big bluestem, etc.,) are all very palatable to cattle, especially when they are just established.  My favorite cover is a blend of switchgrass, big bluestem, and little bluestem.  The ratio of each species I recommend in the blend somewhat depends on the geographic area and long term management goals.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Eagle Seed Pod Production

Question

Grant,

I have been planning for the next season already and I was wondering if you could give me some more insight on Eagle Seed beans.  I have seen your comments but some people are really going after them as not producing good pods.  Are they a good late season food plot?  I am trying to make sure I have a good December/January food plot standing for my herd next year.

Thanks for your time,

Nic (Illinois)

Nic,

I think you can simply watch the recent episodes or those from this time last year on GrowingDeer.tv and see a two year history of great pod production on the marginal soils at The Proving Grounds.  The family that owns Eagle Seed has literally been selecting and cross breeding soybean varieties for 40 years to maximize forage quality, quantity, and pod production.  The pod production of Eagle Seed’s forage soybeans carried the herd (and turkey flock) at The Proving Grounds last winter and are currently doing the same this year.  You are welcome to check out the pod production during our annual shed hunt this March!  I’ll post more information about that event soon.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Marking System for Hack & Squirt

Question

Grant,

We have some multi-age timber to thin (hack/squirt) and in some areas there will be a lot of stems to treat.  How do you keep track of what you’ve treated and where to treat next?  I plan to mark the trees which are treated and work within long narrow sections delineated by a string line.  Is that the way to do it?  How do you do this?

Doug (Arkansas)

Doug,

You are more systematic than me!  I let the scar from the hatchet serve as marking the treated tree. These scars will remain visible until the tree falls.  I do try to make all my cuts (or at least one on the larger diameter trees where multiple cuts are needed) in the same cardinal direction.  For example, if I begin working the timber stand from north to south, I make all of my cuts on the north so when I reenter the stand I can easily determine which stems have been treated without walking circles around the trees.  I tend to simply move through the woods and consider each tree in relation to the surrounding trees and other habitat features, especially if they are the same species.  I typically treat all sassafras, unless they are abnormally large.  If there are five oaks in a group, I favor the stem with the best form, etc., and treat the others.

There is one exception.  I’m always on the lookout for good treestand locations.  I don’t treat trees that may be positioned perfectly in relation to the surrounding habitat for stand location.  Shaping the future of a timber stand is as much art as it is science.  Don’t let the systematic approach get in the way of creating a productive, aesthetically pleasing and huntable forest.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Forage Beans for Northern Latitudes

Question

Mr. Woods,

I noticed Eagle Seed beans listed on your web site.  Do you know of anyone who has planted them in southern Iowa?  If so, how did they perform?  Do you recommend different seeds if planting in Iowa vs. Georgia?

Thanks for your time,

David

David,

I have clients that plant Eagle Seed beans literally throughout the whitetail’s range – as far north as northern Minnesota.  All the varieties of forage beans are late maturing varieties.  Some of my clients with land in the northern latitudes plant the Wildlife Manager’s Mix as it has some faster maturing varieties included (they are not forage varieties).  Don’t be confused by the term “forage varieties.”  Eagle Seeds’ forage varieties of soybeans have been selected during the past 40 years (literally) for their volume and quality of forage produced while maintaining the seed pod production characteristics.  No other company that I’m aware of has such a long history of selecting desirable qualities in forage soybeans.  In fact, Eagle Seed makes 3 blends specifically for northern latitudes.   These blends have a bit more of the earlier maturing beans for maximum pod production with the later maturing forage varieties.  This allows hunters to produce quality green forage until very late in the growing season (or the first hard frost) while gaining a bit more pod production.

It’s important to plant the longer growing forage beans early.  I plant them when the soil temperature at 2” deep at 9 am (soil is as cold as it gets at 9 am +/-) is 60/62 degrees and rising. Iowa State has a web site that monitors and reports soil temperatures throughout the state.  If you are planting production size fields (30+ acres each), then the value of forage beans is that they will remain green and palatable until very late in the growing season or until the first killing frost.  Such large fields will usually provide enough forage to not be totally over browsed by deer.  However, if you are planting smaller fields in areas with a high deer density, the browse tolerance of Eagle Seed forage beans will often be the difference between a productive plot and a total failure.  Varieties of production soybeans simply can’t withstand as much browse pressure and will often die as the results of excessive browsing.

I’ll be working tomorrow in Fulton County, IL.  I manage multiple properties in Fulton and Adams counties where the owner has successfully planted, produced, and hunted over the standard Eagle Seed forage soybeans.  I usually don’t use the northern mixes south of Wisconsin, etc.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will ATV’s Scare Deer Away?

Question

Next year when I go deer hunting, if I ride an ATV slowly will it scare the deer away?

Jon

Jon,

Deer are very alert to smells and noises they associate with danger.  If they associate the noise of an ATV with danger, they will certainly avoid the area or at least be alerted by the presence of an ATV.  On the other hand, they may simply ignore the ATV if they don’t associate it with danger.  For example, deer at most golf courses don’t associate golf carts with danger.  They see them every day and are not harmed or threatened by them.  However, a pickup driving down a golf trail would probably cause the local deer herd to be on alert and limit their movement until they sensed the threat passed.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Advice for the Beginning Hunter

Question

Dr. Grant,

I am 12 years old and I love to hunt!  I have been hunting since I was six.  I started deer hunting 3 years ago and I just started bow hunting this year.  I have never shot a deer, gun or bow.  Could you give me a few pointers on food plots and bow hunting?

Nick

Nick,

I’m glad you enjoy hunting!  It’s a fabulous way to learn about the environment, and other lessons that will help you in all aspects of life!!  Rather than give you the short answer here, why don’t you check out the 500+ responses I’ve written to specific questions about hunting and food plots here, in the Grant’s Answers section.  Use the search feature to find information about specific topics.  I also share a lot of information in my blog, Thoughts from the Field.  Finally, I hope you will consider joining us at our annual events.  These are great events to learn more about deer and deer hunting from myself and other folks that attend.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Dispatch Trapped Raccoons

Question

How do you shoot a raccoon in a box trap with a .22 and not have the bullet bounce off the wire and hit your body?  Do you open the trap and shoot them when they come out?

David

David,

I simply apply the same gun safety rules that apply to every shot.  These include never pointing the muzzle at anything you don’t wish to shoot.

I always consider the bullet path and background.  I shoot through the trap at very close range (no chance of hitting the wire) and make sure the area behind the target is safe.  I always wear hearing protection, and unload the weapon as soon as the raccoon is dispatched.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Best Bait for Trapping Raccoons

Question

Grant,

I enjoyed your GrowingDeer.tv segment on raccoon trapping (GDTV 58).  We have a real problem on our farm.  Do you have a preferred bait for raccoons that the squirrels don’t prefer?  We seem to have more squirrels springing our traps than coons!  We currently use Havahart traps.  Do you have a recommended size for coons, and do you prefer a 1-door or a 2-door model?  Thanks so much for your advice!

John

John,

I use inexpensive dog food with small kibble size.  Raccoons, opossums, and even foxes are attracted to dog food.  Yes, squirrels will sometimes consume the bait, but crows seem worse!  I like to toss some bait across the road/trail where the trap is set to increase the attractiveness of the set.  However, crows are bad to consume that bait before dark.

I like the single door traps and typically use live traps with a 8” x 8” or 9’ x 9” opening.  I like the smaller traps as then I can haul more in a truck.

Growing Deer (and trapping) together,

Grant

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Keeping Deer out of a Food Plot

Question

How do I go about keeping deer out of a garden (food plot)?  I put up an electric fence with three strands, but the deer tore it down.  How can I keep them out?

Thank you,

Carroll

Carroll,

I’m sorry to hear about deer invading your garden.  Did you use a Gallagher electric fence system with a single wire on the outside and 2 wires placed 3′ back (toward the garden)?  Was power kept to the fence 24/7?  These are common reasons why electric fences don’t keep deer out of a food source.

Another reason is that deer learn there is food in a specific location and become conditioned to eating there.  Once deer get conditioned to feeding at a specific location, they will sometimes continue to cross the fence even if they get shocked.

I hope these questions help you resolve the problem.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Field Days

Question

Grant,

I stumbled onto your website through Facebook.  I’m a youth pastor in Salina, Kansas.  I watched the video that you did before Christmas and really appreciated your testimony at the beginning. I love to hunt as do several guys in our church.  I wish I could spend as much time as you do in the field.  God’s creation is so awesome.  I have six teen boys in my youth ministry that love to hunt. Do you ever do anything with young guys?  If we could connect it would be a great experience for them.  I don’t mean to hunt, just spend a couple of hours with you showing the guys what you do and why you do it.  We are affiliated with Baptist Bible College in Springfield (don’t hold that against us) so making a trip to Springfield isn’t that unusual.  Pray about it and let me know.

God Bless,

Matt

Matt,

Thanks for the kind words!  I host several annual events (field days, shed hunts, etc.) your group would enjoy!!  You are welcome to join us.  There is a fee for events that covers hotel room nights, meals, etc.  It is not a fee based on me making a profit.  I simply don’t wish to lose money on such events.  The registration information will be posted on GrowingDeer.tv.

I always invite all attendees to join me at First Baptist Church Branson for Bible Study and Worship.

Thanks again and may God bless your ministry!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Nasal Bots

Question

Dear Grant,

When I shot my first doe I noticed it had worms at the starting of the eating pipes.  Is this some type of disease?

Robert

Robert,

I suspect the worms you saw are nasal bots.  They are commonly found in deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Antlers as an Indicator of Age

Question

Dr. Woods,

What are the biological reasons that a mature buck with large, developed, symmetrical antlers and 22 inches of main beam length barely has one legal brow tine and nothing on the other side?  All other characteristics point to a mature deer (size, brisket, etc.).  It just makes judging a mature buck that much harder!

Buzz

Buzz,

The length of a buck’s brow tines seems to be more of an individual characteristic than an indicator of age.  Body configuration is usually a better indicator of a buck’s age than any characteristic of his antlers.  That’s why I use the shape of a buck’s body much more than the configuration of antlers to estimate age.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Nocturnal Deer after the Rut

Question

I’m an active bow hunter and I can’t understand why there are no more deer around after the rut. I see tons of tracks.  I figure they are moving at night.  It is -3 to 20 degrees.  They should be moving around and then bedding down in this weather.  Any ideas?

Ken (Chicago)

Ken,

Deer, especially mature deer, are extremely good at avoiding danger.  If the hunting pressure has been heavy where you hunt, then the deer may be conditioned to moving at night to avoid danger.  However, deer do tend to move more during the daytime in periods of extreme cold to take advantage of the warmer temperatures during the day, if there is ample food available such as ag fields, etc.  In areas where quality food is not available, deer will sometimes conserve energy by limiting their movement.

Most hunters tend to stay home when the temperatures are near zero.  You should be able to pattern some deer by locating an area that has feed available and that has received less hunting pressure relative to your area.

Stay warm!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating Cover in Shade

Question

Grant,

What is the best thing I can do to thicken up my property?  It has a lot of mature trees but still tends to be on the thin side in a lot of areas.  It just seems that thorns and other underbrush do not grow naturally.  I want to try to create that bedroom that I don’t currently have.  I have the food and the water but I know I lose a lot of deer off my property due to insufficient bedding and cover!  I have been doing some looking at millet but I’m not sure this is the answer.  Basically I want to broadcast whatever you suggest and let it go to town.  My main concern is that it will be heavily shaded and needs to be established before the leaves fall or else it will be smothered by the multiple oak and sycamore leaves!

Thanks,

Chris

Chris,

All plants need sunlight to grow.  I’m not aware of any crop (be it for food or cover) that will be very productive if it is heavily shaded.  I suspect the best prescription to create cover on your property is to open the forest’s canopy.  Then you can choose a type of cover that’s best for your area.

Without creating areas where the sun reaches the soil, no crop is going to grow well.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Wildlife Management Degree

Question

Dr. Woods,

I am seeking advice in regards to what avenues are available to pursue a wildlife sciences or management degree.  I graduated from Auburn several years ago with a history degree.  I know Mississippi State and Auburn are well respected in the field but neither offer any online degrees.  I live in Mobile, Alabama and was wondering if you knew of anyway to further my education in this field within driving distance or online.  If not a traditional university then please recommend any other outlets that might help my resume in working in the wildlife management field (i.e. QDMA courses, etc.).

Thanks,

Gaines

Gaines,

I’d start by defining your objective.  If it is to gain employment in the wildlife field, then your objective needs to be further defined.  Do you wish to work specifically with deer or in the wildlife field in general?  If you wish to work with deer, then what type of habitat do you wish to work in?  A degree from south Texas may prepare you very well for working in that habitat type, but some of what you studied may not apply to work in Alabama.  The deer management principles will be the same, but the plants, soils, etc., will be substantially different.  The wildlife field is very competitive, so you need to refine your objectives and take a targeted approach.  I schooled in Missouri, Georgia, and Clemson and worked for the Bureau of Land Management in Nevada.  The diversity of my education was as much of a benefit as any course.

If you wish to learn more about white-tailed deer and habitat management, but are not seeking employment, then the QDMA courses are outstanding!  However, I doubt they are enough to qualify you for a job with most state agencies.  They are perfect for property managers in the private industry.

I’m not familiar with any online programs that truly prepare you to be wildlife biologist.  I believe the field portion of education is just as important as the bookwork.

Finally, the major professor/advisor you pick is just as important as the school.  Drs. Lynn Robins, David Guynn, and Larry Marchinton were very influential on my career.  All of them gave me a lot of room to grow and they strongly encouraged field experience.  I’m indebted to all of them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When Do Deer Stop Eating Acorns?

Question

Dr. Grant Woods,

When do deer stop eating acorns?  Do they rot or go bad?  Or do deer eat them until they are gone?  Also what is your opinion of milo for food plots?

Brian

Brian,

Deer will consume acorns as long as they are good.  White oak acorns tend to rot to germinate by mid winter.  Acorns from red oaks have a higher acid content which allows them to remain eatable longer.  Some red oaks may remain eatable until early spring.

Milo is a very drought resistant crop that deer like once it makes a seed head.  Deer don’t consume the vegetation produced by milo.  Hence, if food plot acreage is limited, I don’t recommend milo as it will take up valuable food plot real estate for months before producing anything deer wish to eat.  Once the seed heads are developed, they are favored by birds and are unprotected.  That’s a huge advantage of corn, the ear is protected by a sheath that keeps most birds from consuming the grain and most ears will point down after they ripen and the sheath protects the grain from moisture.

For most food plot situations, corn offers more advantages than milo.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating a Silent Approach to Stands

Question

First and foremost, I love the show.  I wish more hunting shows were as informational as yours. Watching someone squeeze a trigger on a monster buck in a food plot does nothing to improve my hunting, so thank you for everything you have taught me.

I hunt in Central Texas.  The area is covered with multiple types of oak, cedar, yaupon and briars. With the forest floor covered in dry leaves and acorns, how can one access a stand with the least amount of noise and detection from whitetails?

Chance

 

 

Chance,

Thank you for the kind words!  I face the same problem at The Proving Grounds, especially after leaf fall.  I wait until most of the leaves have fallen, then use a backpack blower during midday to create a trail by blowing the leaves from a path to my stand.  This creates several advantages for the hunter.

It allows the hunter to walk on bare ground and move without making hardly a sound!  Bare ground doesn’t hold scent as much as vegetation.  Deer rarely detect where I’ve walked when I approach a stand using a path prepared as described above.  The leaf free path makes finding my stand before daylight very simple and I only have to use a very small light.  The minimal disturbance entry (M.D.E.) possible by using this technique is well worth the effort to create the path!!

A potential negative of using the tactic is that deer will often walk the leaf free path.  That’s not a problem as long as they are not walking the same time as the hunter.  Another potential problem is that a stand pirate may follow the path to your stand!  If you’re worried about stand pirates (friends that aren’t really friends), then don’t blow a path all the way to the road.  Begin blowing the path when it is not visible from the road.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What genetic factors contribute to bigger antlers on whitetail bucks?

Question

I’ve read that when it comes to producing “big” bucks, the mother (doe) is responsible for most of the good genetics.  Is there any truth to this?  If so, should we allow some does that we know may have produced a big buck to walk? Also, I find it hard to kill a doe that produced twins or triplets.  Do all does have the ability to birth twins and/or triplets or is that based on the animal’s environment and food?

Thank you,

Justin

Justin,

Researchers believe that does contribute more to the genetic potential of a buck’s antlers than the sire.  However, no matter how good the genetic potential is, the age structure and quality of the habitat determine how much of a buck’s antler potential can be expressed.  That’s why I never worry about a buck’s genetic potential unless the habitat is fabulous.  I don’t believe it’s practical to select which doe produces better bucks in a wild, free-ranging situation.  A buck’s potential is usually not known until he is 4.5 years old or older.  It’s very tough to know which doe produced a buck 4.5 years later.

It is very common for does in good habitat to have twins or triplets.  If the adult sex ratio is not managed to be balanced, then it is unlikely that a buck will express his full antler development potential.  Likewise, it is very important to ensure there is plenty of quality food for each deer in the population by harvesting enough does to balance the habitat’s capacity to produce quality food with the number of deer in the area.

Given the above, I suggest harvesting enough does to meet the management objectives for that property.  I harvest the first doe I can legally and don’t stop until the prescribed doe harvest quota is met – independent of the doe’s age, number of fawns, etc.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Gallagher Food Plot Protection Fence

Question

Why didn’t those deer just jump that fence you had up?  That fence didn’t look too high, was it electric?  The fence can be 4′ tall and they still jump them in North Dakota so why didn’t they jump yours?

Tyrel

Tyrel,

Yes, the Gallagher Food Plot Protection Fence is electric.  It is powered by a nifty solar charger.  The combination of the electric fence and the two-tier approach (the first tier is one wire 18” high and the second are two wires 8” and 24” high – the two tiers are separated by 3’) does an outstanding job of keeping deer out.  Yes, they could jump both tiers, but simply don’t.  Folks use this Gallagher system to protect orchards, vegetables, and other very expensive crops.

The fence has worked excellent at my place.  In areas with cattle or feral hogs, a single tier of two strands can be used to exclude cattle and hogs while allowing deer to access food plots.  The Gallagher Food Plot Protection System is an excellent tool!!!

Growing Deer (and crops) together,

Grant

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Turkey Hunting in the Ozarks

Question

Grant,

I want to know what advice you have for turkey hunting in southern Missouri.  I have hunted them before but it was in a different state.  Do you have any advice for a first time turkey hunter in this part of the country?

Edward

Edward,

I really enjoy turkey hunting!  I usually hunt turkeys in several states each spring and basically use the same techniques everywhere.  I try to get a feel for the stage of the turkey breeding cycle so I can adjust my calling and strategies accordingly.

One thing I try to do when hunting in hilly topography like the Ozarks is always to set up where the gobbler can’t see me until he is in shooting range!  This is easier to do in the Ozarks than in areas with flat terrain.  Mature toms rarely come to a call if they can see the area and hear a call but not see a hen.  I really enjoy hunting the Ozarks, except for toting a large tom up these hills.

Growing Deer (and chasing turkeys) together,

Grant

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Supplemental Feed for Deer

Question

Thanks for answering my last question!!  Here’s another one:  our club leases 7,000+/- acres of topographically similar, but managed pine timberlands (85%+ pinelands).  This past year hardwoods have been in demand and the harvest of those premium hardwood bottoms has been intense with re-plantings by the landowners only in pine.  Although the natural shrub browse is good throughout the lease most of the year (middle Alabama), our club has established a supplemental feeder program with grain (corn) feeders throughout the post-hunting spring and summer season based on a belief that there is not enough good natural food in these timberlands.  We also plant winter food plots with a multi-seed mix.  What’s your opinion on establishing spring/summer food plots versus grain feeders?  Would that provide for an overall better long-term herd food program?  (i.e. if we feed cattle from the corn hopper, why not deer?)

Thanks!!

Dan

Dan,

There are some clubs that have a great supplemental feeding program.  However it’s a lot of work to do correctly.  Feeders should be cleaned frequently (every week), moved every other week (so deer aren’t picking up the spilled grain from areas covered with feces, urine, etc.) and enough feeders should be maintained so that deer are not constantly fighting (being stressed) at feeders.  In addition, predators learn to key in on deer at feeders rapidly.  This plus the huge monetary cost of buying feed, feeders, and maintaining the feeders makes a good supplemental feeding program prohibitive for most folks.

It’s almost always much less expensive to grow high quality feed on site compared to someone else growing, harvesting, packaging, shipping, going through brokers, retailers, etc.

Cattle are vaccinated so they are not as likely to get sick when using feeders that are not cleaned.  In addition, predators don’t pattern cattle as readily as they do deer using a feeder.  Finally, cattle rarely fight as much as deer at feeders.  Cattle are herd animals by nature; white-tailed deer are not comfortable in large herds of non-family members.

A final consideration is that it is common for birds, squirrels, raccoons, etc., to consume a significant portion of the supplemental feed.  You can literally have squirrels and raccoons consume thousands of dollars of feed.  Unless it’s prohibited by your lease agreement, I suggest you strongly consider growing the food on site.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Conditioning Deer

Question

Most of our main food plots have large tower blinds overlooking or directly in the plots. Needless to say, these stands are the main stands for the majority of the hunters.  With that being said, they generally do not get hunted outside of the weekends.  When exiting the stands, someone either drives through the field to pick up the hunter or the hunter gets out of the stand and deer scatter.  If this only takes place on the weekends, does this still dramatically affect how the deer use these fields?  Our fields are on strip pits and our main road system runs through every field.  Based on the terrain, we don’t have any other choice. What are some suggestions when faced with this dilemma?

Mark

Mark,

Deer, especially mature bucks, readily adapt to avoiding threats such as the presence of hunters.  I suspect the mature bucks in your area will simply adapt to using the plots at night.  Some bucks may adapt to using the plots during daylight on weekdays.  If that’s the case, such a pattern would be easy to detect by using a trail camera with a time lapse feature.

I would strongly suggest hunters are dropped off and picked up at the blinds by a vehicle.  I would also suggest that fields are not hunted if the wind direction is not favorable for hunting that location.  Once deer pattern hunters, the odds of harvesting a mature buck in that area are substantially decreased.

Some hunters at your property can capitalize on mature bucks patterning the tower stand hunters.  I would look for staging areas or other features where the majority of hunters don’t travel on the property.  In other words, use the knowledge that mature bucks are patterning the majority of hunters on your property to pattern the mature bucks.  It’s the old surprise attack strategy.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plots and Other Habitat Features

Question

My property sounds very similar to The Proving Grounds in that I have very hilly terrain with marginal soil.  Can you discuss what type of terrain you look for when adding hunting plots?  I know the obvious answer is flat ground, but outside of that, what are you looking for in terms of terrain surrounding the hunting plot?  Also, once this plot is established, what manipulations/improvements do you make to the surrounding terrain to encourage deer to come into the area and feel safe?

Mark

Mark,

Deer need food, cover, and water.  I try to ensure each of these habitat features are available in areas that I can approach and hunt without alerting deer.  I evaluate the terrain, predominate wind direction, roads, and other features that impact how deer use the area and then attempt to supply all the needs of a deer herd in a fashion that allows me to pattern and hunt mature bucks without alerting them to my presence.  I’m a huge fan of food plots, but they are only part of developing quality habitat for deer and deer hunters.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Rattling During the Late Season

Question

Will mild rattling in late December attract or scare off deer movement?  This season in south Georgia has been slow with all rut activity being nocturnal and very little movement in the daylight.  I’m just trying to make something happen before the season ends.

Thanks, keep up the great information.

Paul

Paul,

I typically don’t rattle much during the late season.  It can be effective, but I like using a grunt call more during this time of year.  Mature bucks will be seeking the fawns that become receptive this time of year.  Patterning fawns and remaining totally undetected is a good late season strategy for hunting mature bucks.  It may take a few days in the stand before a female fawn that is receptive happens to walk by.  If the mature does/fawns detect you, your chances of seeing a mature buck are decreased, so hunt these fawns like you are approaching a world class buck.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Deer Lures

Question

I’m a beginner at hunting deer.  I’m hunting with a crossbow on public hunting grounds in the mornings and evenings.  I’ve seen three does so far, they almost ran me over.  I haven’t seen a lot of tracks or rubs.  I realize the rut is over.  I’m just getting frustrated with not seeing anything.

What is your opinion on lures?  Do they work and if so, which ones should I buy?  Do you have any other hints or tips?

Thank you and God bless,

Keith (Ohio)

Keith,

I don’t use lures much when I hunt.  I typically try to slip into an area totally undetected by deer.  However, I use lures extensively when I trap coyotes and they can be used effectively for attracting deer.  Stay warm during the late season hunting in Ohio!

Growing Deer together

Grant

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Which Ground Blind?

Question

Hi Grant,

My friends and I bow hunt in Illinois.  We are starting to use ground blinds more often in the late season because there is no squeaking, less wind, and overall it is just more comfortable.  Do you have a particular blind you would recommend for archery?

Thanks,

Don

 

Don,

There are several good ground blinds on the market.  I have four RedHead Enigma blinds I’ve been using this fall and have been very pleased with them.  In fact, I was in an Enigma blind during the second portion of The Z7 Bites Back (GDTV 55).  The blind worked perfectly!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Low or No Glow for Trail Cameras

Question

Dr. Grant,

Which specific model of Reconyx camera do you use?  I notice the Reconyx HyperFire Semi-Covert camera has a low-glow feature when working in IR mode, vs. no glow at all on the Reconyx HyperFire Output Covert model.  Obviously, no glow is best so you do not run the risk of spooking game, but that camera costs $100 more.  Do you think it’s worth it?  I’d just as well go with the semi-covert model and save some money unless you feel differently based on experience.  Thanks for your advice!

Corey

Corey,

I currently use both the Reconyx HyperFire Semi-Convert and HyperFire Output Convert units.  I haven’t had any known problems with deer being spooked by the low glow units.  In fact, I have gads of images of deer bedded for hours at a time with the low glow units.  One deer will get up and browse while the others remain bedded.

If I was using them on public land, I might go for the no glow units.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Raccoons and Turkeys

Question

Dear Grant,

My property consists of about 400 acres of hardwood swamp bottom in southeast Virginia.  In 15 years of hunting this property I have killed two gobblers during spring.  Each fall our food plots are covered with large flocks of hens and a few gobblers here and there.  When spring arrives they are nowhere to be found.  No sign in the woods and definitely no vocalizations.  I watched your segment last year on trapping raccoons and the potential effects they can have on turkey populations (GDTV 10).  After seeing this I took it upon myself to do a raccoon trapping survey which I started this winter.  During bow season it was not uncommon to see 5 to 9 raccoons on their feet at dusk from the stand.  This leads me to believe our property has a serious raccoon population which may have altered the nesting habits of hens in the spring.  Do you feel that this could be possible or is my theory going out on a bit of a limb?  Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and take care!

Carter

Carter,

Raccoons and other predators can certainly reduce the number of eggs and poults that survive significantly!  For that reason alone I trap raccoons at The Proving Grounds.  However, I’m not sure a high raccoon population explains why all turkeys would leave your property during the spring.  I suspect there may be other factors.  For example, is there better nesting and brooding habitat on the neighboring properties?  If that’s the case, especially if it’s been that way for years, then I suspect the hens have developed a pattern of leaving your property during the spring and the gobblers simply follow them.  I suggest you aggressively trap raccoons and other predators and inventory the nesting and brooding habitat on your and the neighboring properties.  By addressing both of these, I strongly suspect the quality of the turkey hunting at your place will improve.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Testing a Trail Camera

Question

I saw deer tracks behind my house.  I put a trail camera there with some corn and I don’t have any pictures yet.  Do you think I have my camera set-up correctly?

Clifton

Clifton,

Sounds like you need to test your camera.  Simply walk through the area where the camera should detect a deer and determine if your presence triggered an event.  If the camera didn’t trigger when you walked through, I’d start by checking the batteries, camera settings, etc.

I hope this helps!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attracting Deer to a Small Property

Question

My father and I hunt west of Lufkin, Texas on a 277 acre lease.  Although it’s not a big property we still manage it as much as we can by passing young bucks and harvesting does.  We have killed 7 bucks in 6 years.  Three of which are in the high 140’s, so I know the potential of the area.  I just got permission to hunt a small 17 acre piece of property a few miles away.  The good thing is that it’s surrounded on three sides by a 2000 acre property with mostly pine trees. The 17 acre property is mostly mature oak trees.  What can I do to improve this place?  Should I plant a food plot in the center of it and hunt the perimeter?  Or wait until the acorns start to drop before hunting it?  What would you do?

Andrew

Andrew,

It sounds as if you and your father are doing a great job managing the deer on your lease!  You may have another great opportunity on the 17 acre tract!  If you have access to hunt the only stand of oaks around, then when they produce it should be a hot spot!  Remember that deer want to survive even more than they like acorns.  So, be cautious when approaching the area.  Try not to alert deer to your presence.  I suggest you have stands hung for multiple wind directions well before season begins.  I would also develop a food plot in an area where you can access it or a travel corridor to the plot without alarming deer.  There will be some years when acorn production is minimal, so having a good source of food will pay huge dividends during those years.  If the conditions aren’t in your favor, I suggest not hunting the 17 acre tract.  If you alert deer to your presence there many times, mature deer will likely only visit that area after dark.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Can Injuries Influence Antler Development?

Question

I watched the video of the hunt in eastern Kansas and you talked about how injuries affect antler growth (GDTV 48).  I live where an 18 point buck was taken just a week or so ago.  Both brow tines are forked and at the base of the right antler he had a single horn growing along with the main beam.  Could you explain how the injuries affect the antlers?

David (Mississippi)

David,

Injuries that occur behind a deer’s shoulders commonly cause the opposite side of a deer’s antlers to develop in a non-typical configuration.  Injuries that occur from the front shoulders forward will often cause the antlers on the same side as the injury to develop in a non-typical configuration.  Not all injuries result in a buck producing a non-typical set of antlers.

Some non-typical antlers are simply a function of that buck’s genetic make-up.  Bucks tend to develop non-typical racks as they mature.  So there can be several reasons for a buck to have a non-typical antler configuration.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Magic Bean?

Question

What is the best food to put out that the deer will eat all year around?

Brehdin

Brehdin,

I wish there was a magic bean or one singular crop that grew year round for deer.  However, I’ve never found such a crop.  Forage soybeans are about as close as I’ve found.  I use Eagle Seed beans and if managed correctly, they produce tons of forage during the growing season and then deer consume the pods during the cool season.  If the crop yields 30 bushels per acre (60 pounds per bushel), then they would produce 1,800 pounds of feed during the cool season after feeding deer through the summer.  That’s about as close to a year round crop for deer as I’m aware.  Soybeans are one of the main reasons deer grow such large antlers on average in agricultural areas.

Growing Deer (and deer food) together,

Grant

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Hunting after Gun Season

Question

Dear Mr. Grant,

I enjoy your web tv very much.  I have found your information has been very helpful in all my hunts.  I hunt every season and use all the helpful hints that you share.  Thank you very much for not being one of those greedy hunters that horde their tricks of the trade.

I am fairly new to the trade and have only been hunting for the last 3 years.  I have dropped one 4 point buck and two does in my short time hunting.  I hunt bow, firearms, and muzzleloader.  I live in western Indiana and it is in the middle of muzzleloader season and the start of late archery.  You say that this is the time to hunt the food sources and I have been, but with no luck. Should I go deeper into the woods or should I just stick it out and hope they will come back in?  I have seen them in my fields, but since firearms season came in the deer have vanished, especially the mature bucks.  Am I doing something wrong?

Thank you for your time,

Jason

Jason,

Thanks for the kind words and congratulations on your success!!  Deer, especially mature bucks, are very good at avoiding danger.  Deer tend to avoid open fields during daylight for several weeks after firearms season (lots of hunting activity) in most states.  During December, I try to hunt travel corridors rather than directly over food sources unless I have access to food plots that haven’t been hunted much previously that year.  The chances of observing mature bucks during daylight hours are much greater if you hunt areas that mature deer don’t associate with danger.

Such locations are rare, but well worth the effort to find during the late season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting with Deer Decoys

Question

Do you recommend hunting with decoys?  If so, when is the best time to use them (rut, prerut, postrut, etc.)?  What brand do you recommend?  I hunt on a lot of steep mountainous terrain and was looking at some of the models that are photographic images of deer (Montana Whitetail Dream Team Decoy) due to their compact size and not the bulky 3-D plastic ones (Flambeau Masters Series).  Do you think that these are as good?

Thanks!

Sam

Sam,

I haven’t used deer decoys in a few years.  Decoys can be very effective, but I’ve simply been using other techniques.  I have a close friend in Kansas that has had repeated success harvesting whitetails, mulies, and antelope using the photographic image decoys.  I hope to try some this coming turkey season.  They’d be much easier to pack around The Proving Grounds than the traditional decoys.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Pines for Cover in the South

Question

Dr. Woods,

You say you like as large of areas of bedding as possible, such as NWSGs.  I have a 10 acre part of my property that I want to turn into cover that has a 1 acre food plot in the middle of it.  Is there any benefit to increasing edge by putting half that acreage surrounding the plot in SG/NWSGs and the remainder in loblolly pines?  Or would it be better to plant just one type of cover in this situation (all loblolly or all SG)?

Also, being in the South where pines grow well and are a good form of income, do you recommend planting pines or still prefer SG in terms of cover?  Longleaf (which I understand might be a better choice) won’t grow where I am as well as loblolly, so I’m stuck with loblolly although I plan on increasing spacing to 15 x 15 feet.

Eric

Eric,

I’ve used pines many times as cover for wildlife.  This strategy works fine!  In fact, excellent cover can be created by using a 15’ x 15’ spacing, suppressing unwanted hardwoods such as sweetgum with the appropriate herbicide, and thinning the stand as soon as economically practical.  The key to creating cover in pine plantations is to ensure sunlight reaches the soil.  Not only can cover be created, but if managed correctly, a good forage base that is drought resistant can be maintained by using the correct combinations of herbicides and prescribed fire.

I often create food plots in the thinned rows of pines.  This creates fabulous wildlife cover that is relatively easy to hunt.  You might watch GDTV 19, Food Plots in Thinned Pine Stands, where I visit with Bobby Watkins and show a mature pine stand managed as I’ve described above.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Slow Rut for 2010

Question

It seems like the rut was kind of slow this year, almost non-existent.  It’s back to bowhunting, but I’m still only seeing immature bucks.  Where do I locate those four to five year old trophy bucks?

Rolane

Rolane,

Many, many hunters report not observing as many deer during the 2010 rut.  That means there should be several mature bucks that survived until this portion of the season!  Post rut hunting can be great if the bucks haven’t switched to moving almost exclusively at night due to hunting pressure.  I usually concentrate on hunting travel routes to and from food sources.  I do this because deer have been hunted for several months now and tend to be very alert.  Mature deer often avoid open fields during daylight this time of year.

If you are hunting in an area with quality forage, some female fawns should be reaching about 70 pounds.  They tend to become receptive when they weigh approximately 70 pounds.  If that’s the case where you hunt, then hunting travel routes used by does/fawn groups may also provide some rut action as the bucks compete for the few remaining dates!  I harvested a mature buck last Saturday by selecting a stand where I expected several does and fawns to travel.  A mature buck was chasing a fawn – just as I had hoped.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attracting Deer During the Lull

Question

During December I don’t have many deer sightings on my 1,500 acre property.  The rut starts after January 1st and just after Christmas we start seeing and harvesting some small bucks. Where have the deer gone and why?  My property has pine plantations with cutover and some hardwoods.  I have stands in all locations.  What do you advise?  We take a good many bucks from after Christmas until January 15th but until that time we don’t see any bucks.  I harvest 140 to 160 class bucks on this property during the 1st week of January on a regular basis.  What can be done to see deer during the lull?

Buddy (Alabama)

Buddy,

It sounds as if you have been very successful.  It may be good to consider that whitetails need food, cover, and water on a daily basis.  If they don’t associate certain areas with fear, they will use the best source of food, cover, and water in their range.  Is better forage available on the neighboring properties?  Is there less hunting pressure on the neighboring properties?  I often use maps to compare my property with surrounding properties to determine where the best resources (food, cover, and water) are available within the likely range of the deer using my property.

Another good tool that might help you determine the cause for the lack of deer observations during the pre-rut is trail cameras!  I often use Reconyx trail cameras to determine the number of deer using a property at different times of the year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Does Corn Help Grow Antlers?

Question

During a show you mentioned that corn does not facilitate growth of large antlers in states like Iowa.  Rather, the other plants that those rich soils produce aid in that growth.  To what other plants were you referring?

Dennis

Dennis,

I think we miscommunicated.  Food high in protein like soybeans is critical for antler growth.  However, so is food that is high in energy.  Corn is a great source of energy for deer!!  The combination of corn and soybeans grown in the same area creates a much better diet than simply a diet of only corn or only soybeans.  Deer will consume primarily the soybean foliage during the growing season, and then consume the carbohydrate rich corn grain during the winter.  These carbohydrates help deer maintain body heat, weight, etc, through the winter stress period!  In fact, most of the record book bucks come from agricultural areas that produce both corn and soybeans annually.  I commonly prescribe corn and forage soybeans for food plots even in non-agricultural areas.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Clover vs. Soybeans in South Carolina

Question

Grant,

Great video as always!  I hope you get that buck you’re looking for.  I live and hunt in South Carolina on 125 acres.  I planted 10 acres of soybeans this year along with clover.  The clover won’t really come into its own until the spring and the next few years.  Do you think I could bypass planting soybeans and just plant white clover for the deer (say a 5 acre plot)?  I saw deer this year, but I don’t feel like the soybeans were any more of a draw than the clover and I need to devote more of my acreage to bedding areas and cover.  Would a single large plot be better on my property than several smaller plots?

Garry

Garry,

I select food plot crops based on my mission for the plot (feeding vs. attraction, etc.) and what crops perform best in the soils where they are to be planted.  I lived in South Carolina for a decade and still work on projects there.  Except in the mountains, the summers tend to be a bit hot and dry for most varieties of clover.  Clover rarely remains green and succulent during these periods of stress.  If your mission for the plot is attraction and it rains during the time of year you plan to hunt, clover may be a good selection.  It’s tougher to control weeds in clover than soybeans.  If nutrition is your goal, then soybeans will usually remain green and succulent in drier conditions than clover.  If the beans are allowed to mature, the pods are an excellent source of nutrition and attraction for both deer and turkey.  Soybeans are usually more palatable to deer than clover. However, soybeans can be over-browsed when they are young.  If this occurs it’s best to protect them with a Gallagher Food Plot Protection Fence or plant a more browse resistant crop such as clover.

If providing quality nutrition is the goal, I’d plant one large plot near the center of your property.  If creating locations for frequent hunts is the primary mission, than multiple, smaller plots may be a better strategy.  Combining both would be ideal!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Patterning a Mature Buck

Question

I’m seventeen and I have only killed one good buck on my family’s 150 acre property.  It was a 120 inch 8 point.  Right now I’m after a ten point on a friend’s property that will score about 150.  I can’t figure out when he comes through the bean field I hunt over.  I’ve seen his tracks but can’t catch sight of him when I hunt.  Is there a way I can call him to me or find out when to get him?  It’s early December and I don’t know if the rut is over here.  What should I do?  I need the meat for my family and he would help us for awhile considering his tracks are over two inches deep.

Clayton

Clayton,

Congratulations on harvesting a good buck!  Patterning mature bucks is very difficult when on the ground, let alone from a distance.  I’m afraid I’m not going to be much help!  I prefer hunting between the feeding and bedding area.  Can you determine where he is bedding?  Where is the closest thick cover to the field?

If providing meat for your family is the goal, then I would attempt to harvest does if that is legal where you hunt.  This will provide more meat than a single mature buck and allow you to learn more about the local deer herd.  My family eats primarily meat from does every year.  Not only do we value the meat, but the lessons I learn from harvesting does has made me a much better hunter!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Score Antlers

Question

Hello Grant,

My 11 year old son and I really enjoy your website and videos.

How do I score a rack?  My son, on his first ever muzzleloader hunt, harvested an 8 point buck that was huge for this part of Maryland.  It weighed in at 255 lbs. field dressed.

Thanks for any help.

Guy

Guy,

Wow – congrats to your son and you!!!!  That’s a huge body weight for a deer harvested anywhere.  A guide to the most common scoring system can be found on The Boone and Crocket website.

Growing (and scoring) Deer together,

Grant

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Timing of the Rut in Duval County, Texas

Question

I hunt in Duvall county, south Texas.  When would you say that the rut will begin and end?

Johnny

Johnny,

Generally speaking, the rut in south Texas is during late December – give or take.  There are many ranches that intensively manage whitetails in Duval County, so the herd densities, nutrition levels, etc., can be significantly different from ranch to ranch.  All these factors can impact the timing of the rut on a site-specific basis.

Talk to the folks that manage the property where you hunt for a more specific answer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Recommended Literature

Question

Hi,

My name is Seth and I am the private lands conservationist technician for Fremont and Mills counties in Iowa.  What information or literature would you recommend to look at from a management standpoint regarding white-tailed deer?  I wish to educate myself so I can help landowners with questions they have regarding this matter.  I would really appreciate it.

 

Seth

Seth,

There are many sources of information that may be of value.  Some of the sources may not be directly related to white-tailed deer.  For example, there are several sources of information about prescribed fire, soil fertility, etc., that are not considered specific to deer management.  The Quality Deer Management Association produces a great magazine titled Quality Whitetails that includes lots of deer and habitat information.  You might check out my book, “Deer Management 101,” as a source of deer population management information.  We also host multiple field days annually at The Proving Grounds for hands on deer and habitat information.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Latest Strategies

Question

Dear Grant,

I really enjoy your show and appreciate what you do for all of us greenhorns. What do you think of all the individuals out there who are claiming that they have the latest secret or strategy (for a consultation fee) that can manipulate your habitat or teach you how to hold deer (beds etc.) and cause them to predictably funnel past your stand for an easy kill?  I am not trying to get you to talk negatively about anyone.  I just want to know if it is truly possible to do what they are claiming or if I would be better off spending my money elsewhere?  Thank you and may the good Lord bless you and your family this Christmas.

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for the kind words!  Certainly habitat can usually be improved and even designed to improve a hunter’s chances of seeing a mature buck.  However, it’s still up to the hunter to approach the stand stealthily, only hunt when the wind is favorable for that location, etc.

The old adage “if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is” seems to be very accurate.  I would suggest researching any product or consultant that claims to consistently produce “easy kills” of mature bucks before purchasing or hiring.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cows, Deer & Electric Fences

Question

We lease some Midwest farms to hunt and there are cows in some areas for part of the warm months.  One owner fears us having multi-row electric fences because he thinks some of the cows might get caught between the wires and have problems getting out.  Do you have any experience with this type of situation?

Cows are gone by hunting season and we can open the electric fences.  After letting deer in for a few weeks to graze forage bean green leaves, can we close them out again until late season when we want them to enjoy the bean pods or will habit lead them to force their way back into the groceries?

Are you seeing or hearing reports of fewer deer in your parts of the Midwest?  In our areas of southeast Nebraska and northern Kansas we have experienced a drastic decline in deer numbers in the past 2 years.  We see fewer deer and we see the same deer multiple days so there seems to be fewer total deer.  More tags are being issued.  Late antlerless seasons are allowed after bucks have shed antlers.  There is a new 10-day Nebraska antlerless gun season that was added in the midst of bow season.  We have not seen evidence of big EHD problems.  Lots of hunters are practicing QDM in our areas so why the big drop in buck numbers?  Fewer does produce fewer buck fawns but why does it seem like such a sudden event?  We have gotten similar reports from several counties in southern Iowa and west central Illinois this year.  Do you think it is the result of official actions, over-harvests, weather cycles, voodoo, or just a really unlucky season?  Surely, it is not a matter of ALL of the bucks being in lockdown arrangements for the whole season, right?

Thanks, again, you are a GREAT resource and we appreciate your guidance.

Lennie

Lennie,

Great to hear from you!  I hope we get to visit again this February at the Deer Study Group.

I would have no fear of cows or calves becoming entangled and/or hurt in the 2-tier Gallagher electric fence I use to protect food plot crops.  I’ve grabbed the fence (on purpose and by accident) and besides wishing I hadn’t, I was not injured.  I think the fear of a cow or calf being injured is totally unwarranted.  I think there is a much greater chance of a cow being injured by being chased into a barbed wire fence by dogs, coyotes, etc.

I’ve been very pleased with the results of the Gallagher fences at mine and several clients’ properties from New York to Alabama.  However, I haven’t tried opening the gates, then closing them again.  I believe this will work as long as the remainder of the fence is maintained with a charge.  If you give this a try, please keep me posted about the results!

I’ve heard a mix of reports from friends having their worst to best hunting season in the Midwest.  I do feel strongly that as more bucks are allowed to mature, the herd’s behaviors change.  I think herds with several bucks 4+ years old show much more of a lockdown style rut than herds with the biggest majority of bucks being 3 years old.  Three year old bucks tend to be more active and aggressive.  Once a herd has several big, mature bucks, the younger deer don’t tend to be as rowdy.  That’s not to say that hunting 4 year old bucks is boring, but that it requires a different strategy to be successful on a sustained basis.

I suspect the post rut hunts may be some of the best hunting during the 2010-11 season.  Let’s visit during February and see if this prediction is accurate.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Warts on Deer

Question

Dr. Woods,

I have noticed that several of the doe’s that we have seen on our farm have some type of large reddish looking warts on their bodies. Without seeing a picture is it possible for you to explain what this wart could be?  Is it safe to eat the meat if we harvest a deer that has one of these warts?

Thanks,

Brandon

Brandon,

I can’t positively identify what the lesions are without an image or personally examining the deer. However, I suspect they are fibromas. If so, they are not harmful to humans and only impact the quality of the meat if a secondary infection is present. Check out these images and description and see if you think they are fibromas.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Gun Preference

Question

Which is a better gun, a Savage .308 or a Savage 30-06? I’ve got the .308 and I’ve shot one deer with it. My brother has the 30-06, but he has missed three deer with a 30-30.

Which is better to plant for a food plot, clover or something else?

Good hunting,

Grant

Grant,

I’ve never shot either model of gun. However, I own both calibers in other models and they are both excellent for whitetails. I prefer the .308 as it has plenty of power to kill a whitetail and, depending on the model, usually has less recoil than a 30-06.

There are many good food plot crops. Clover works well in areas where it remains cool and moist most of the year (in northern states). It tends to go dormant during the frequent hot, dry summers that occur in southern states. Deer readily consume soybeans during the summer and corn during the winter. Winter wheat is an easy crop to grow during the fall and deer readily consume it if it has been well fertilized. Different crops produce better in different areas and different soils. Your local seed dealer or hunters experienced with food plots should be able to help you pick a food plot crop that grows well in your neighborhood.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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One Acre Cover Plots

Question

Grant,

I have 128 acres that my dad and I hunt, and one day my son will hunt with us. There are already three 1 acre plots on it. We are always improving our woods with browse and cover. However, I’m having a hard time determining a pattern for the deer, although I do see deer in each plot. Would it be better to create one larger plot in the middle of my property (about 5 acres) and convert the other plots to cover? I don’t want to because they are already there and I maintain them, but it has been hard to predict the deer movement. We usually kill one or two 3.5 year old deer per year, typically over the plots during the rut. We try hunting between cover and food but the best cover is on a neighboring property.  This makes it hard to get close to the edge without spooking deer, so we’ve found the best hunting near or on the plots.

Thanks,

Garry

Garry,

I think you’ve been very successful by harvesting one or two 3.5 year old bucks annually on 128 acres! Certainly harvesting one 3.5 year buck per 100 acres annually is above the national average!! However, properties can almost always be improved. Deer require food, cover, and water. Mature bucks usually use the best source of each of these in their range. Best may not be the best source based solely on quality, but their usage also depends on the amount of danger they associate with each resource. For example, you could have the best food source for deer in the neighborhood but if deer associate it with danger they won’t use it much during daylight hours.

If your neighbor has “the best” cover it’s doubtful one acre cover blocks will be better. I’d evaluate what’s the limiting factor in your neighborhood and make sure you have the best of that resource available on your property. By providing a resource that deer need and is most limited in your neighborhood, and working to insure deer don’t associate that resource with danger, you should have great hunting!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Thick Pines

Question

My dad and I are managing a 100 acre plot of land that is bordered by a creek on two sides and a small river at one end.  The area is heavily pressured by dogs, as all the hunters in the area are running them.  My dad and I restrict hunting to only stand and still hunting on our property, but the occasional group of dogs runs across our property from time to time.  I am getting into bowhunting heavily as well.

The land consists of 20 acres of cleared land and a mix of thick pines, underbrush and hardwoods in distinct separations.  We have not seen anything from our stands, which are all located in the hardwoods, but we find tracks on a regular basis all throughout the pines.  They are too thick to hunt from the ground.  There are minimal distances you can see if we set up a stand there.  Do you have any suggestions for hunting the deer in the pines or pulling them out of their cover?

Robbie

Robbie,

Hunting thick pines can be tough!  However there are some techniques that can help.  Deer will seek the easiest path of travel if they feel secure.  I’ve cut paths through thick cover with some openings or shooting lanes, especially for bowhunting.  I’m not describing cutting down large trees, but clearing the brush and vines between and below some of the trees.  Then, hang or place a ground blind with the predominant wind in your favor and create a path for you to approach/leave the stand.  Don’t hunt this stand if the wind is not in your favor.  Deer usually don’t tolerate much disturbance in their sanctuary.  Also, always stalk your stand as deer will also adapt to using the lane created to approach your stand.  If possible, I’d establish this setup on several sides of the pine thicket so you and your father can hunt with any wind direction.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Rifle Do You Use?

Question

Hi Grant,

I just had a quick question about your rifle.  I noticed it is very compact. Would you mind sharing what brand or is it a custom built rifle?

Mike

Mike,

I was using a Steyr SSG4 rifle.  I use it as it came from the factory – there have been no modifications.  I have a Nikon Monarch 3-12×42 scope with a BDC reticle.  It is a short, but very accurate rifle.  It’s a .308 and I use Barnes VOR-TX ammo.  The gun, scope, and ammo are a fabulous combination!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Winter Food Plot Crops in Michigan

Question

Grant,

Thank you for the great information that you provide every week on your show, it is great to finally have a show that that puts the creator first.

I live in Michigan where baiting is no longer allowed, which means no mineral licks.  All of the crops around me are corn, which is harvested then disked under every year.  I lease 250 acres with about 2 acres available to plant in food plots (4 different locations).  What would be the best seeds to plant in those areas?  Two of the food plot locations are shady with only about 4 to 5 hours of sunlight during the summer months.  Thank you again for the awesome show.

Trevor

Trevor,

Thank you for the kind words!  It sounds as if you could have a fabulous situation!  The local commercial agricultural fields provide quality food during the warm season.  This is especially true if some of the neighboring acreage is planted in soybeans as corn forage is rarely consumed by deer during the growing season.  If that’s the case, I recommend concentrating on providing quality forage during the hunting season.  Heavily fertilized rye grain (not rye grass) and brassicas provide great cold season forage!!  If the deer density is relatively high in your neighborhood, a Gallagher Food Plot Protection fence may be necessary to protect the crops from over browsing until you are ready to hunt.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Patterning Deer

Question

I know where the deer bed and their routes.  Could you give me tips on how to hunt the deer down?  Hopefully I’ll have a steak on my plate at the end of gun season.

Jonathan (Massachusetts)

Jonathan,

Sounds like you almost have the deer in your area patterned!  Once you know where they go for food, cover, and water the challenge is how you can position a stand between those habitat features without disturbing the deer.  You have an excellent start to having venison soon!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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2011 Field Day Dates

Question

In your answer to a previous question you stated there will be two field days in 2011.  When will those dates and associated costs be available?

Andrew

Andrew,

I haven’t set dates for the shed hunt or field days yet.  The date for our 2011 Shed Hunt will be posted on our web site during early January.  The hunt will most likely be during late March – just before spring green up in the Ozarks and youth turkey season!

I hope you will join us!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shoot or Don’t Shoot Spikes

Question

Years ago, a biologist in Texas wrote a book, “The King Of Deer”, and in it he wrote that his studies show that spikes are simply yearlings that did not get the right diet.  Now a number of Texas authorities say that is bunk and they tell everyone to shoot them.  I imagine that some of the spikes will never develop to be a 20″ 10 point, but they may grow to be good legal bucks. Have you done any studies on this?  Where does your research take place?

Chick

Chick,

Several researchers including Drs. Harry Jacobson, Mickey Hellickson, myself, etc., have researched both captive and free-ranging yearly bucks and without question spike bucks can and most often do produce average or better antlers as they mature!  In fact, some of Dr. Hellickson’s research in Texas shows that the difference in antler size, once allowed to mature, between bucks whose first set of antlers were spikes and those with 10 points is not substantially different when they are 4.5 years old.  The conclusion to his research was that shooting spikes only resulted in fewer bucks for hunters to harvest three years later.  Based on that and several other research projects I never recommend hunters harvest yearling bucks with spike antlers as a means to improve the herd’s average antler size.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Drawing Deer out of a Swamp

Question

Hi Grant,

The property I hunt has a large (30-40 acres) swampy area that is so thick around the edges that we can’t even see into it, much less gain access.  Food plots have not been successful in drawing the deer out of the swamp.  Do you have any advice for drawing deer out of a habitat that is large, incredibly thick, and provides everything the deer need?

Greg

Greg,

It sounds like you’re hunting next to a great sanctuary.  If there’s many deer using the swamp as cover, they are coming out to forage at sometime.  However, it may be only at night if the hunting pressure is heavy in the area.  Food is certainly a good attractant.  I’d study the swamp and surrounding area on an aerial image and determine all the probable food sources within practical range of the swamp and then investigate the likely travel routes to those food sources.  Remember that deer rarely travel in straight paths.  Consider the best travel routes based on cover and focus on those that allow you to approach without being detected.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trailing Bucks

Question

Have you ever been to Maine?  I got a yearling buck last year that weighed 145 lbs.  This year we were walking to our spot when we saw an 8 point buck that was about to mount a doe.  A partridge then flew out in front of the buck and he went running like crazy.  We followed him for quite awhile.  In this situation would it be better to let him go or to chase him?

Elijah

Elijah,

Congratulations on harvesting a buck!  I have been to Maine.  Many hunters there are successful at trailing deer in the snow.  It’s a hunting technique that requires lots of patience and skill.  Usually if a deer is observed while following their track, it is only for a few seconds so there is very little time to prepare for the shot.  It’s even tougher to trail a deer with two folks as there is twice the noise, movement, etc.  However, it is an exciting hunting technique.  Every situation is different and good hunters simply learn which technique works best for them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mature bucks on 131 acres

Question

I just recently checked out your website and was impressed.  I live in Florida but I own 131 acres in the Ozarks (Douglas County) for 3 years now.  I put a lot of hard work on my land and see no improvement (lime, fertilize, mow, disk and plant all types of seed).  I get lots of pictures of young bucks and does but no big bucks.  I have 3 ponds, mature pines, and hardwoods with good bedding.  I think the neighbors shoot anything brown.  What am I doing wrong?

Tim

Tim,

Sounds like you have created good habitat.  Mature bucks will typically use the best habitat within their range disproportionately more than areas with lower quality food, cover, and water.  You may have the best habitat in the neighborhood, but the mature bucks are still probably spending some time on the neighboring properties.  If that’s the case and your neighbors aren’t of the mindset to pass immature bucks, then few bucks are probably reaching maturity at your farm.

You didn’t mention the creation of sanctuaries on your property.  Sanctuaries are critical for producing mature bucks on relatively small acreages.  I’d also visit with the neighbors about the benefits of allowing bucks to mature.  They may or may not be receptive at first.  However, it’s certainly worth a shot and I’d continue with the educational efforts.  Each buck that is passed will make the hunting in the neighborhood that much better!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Continue GrowingDeer.tv

Question

Just wanted to drop you a short note to say that I thoroughly enjoy your weekly videos.  I own a farm in northern Missouri, so big bucks are common in that part of the state.  I’m very impressed with the quality of the bucks that you have on your property, in one of the toughest parts of the state to grow big deer.  I hope you continue your videos into next year.  Keep up the good work and thanks for the helpful information.

Keith

Keith,

Thank you for the kind words!!  I enjoy sharing information with deer hunters and managers and GrowingDeer.tv is a great tool to share timely information!  Lord willing, I plan to continue with the show, our annual shed hunt, and food plot and habitat field trips.

Thanks for watching and please join us for a field trip!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating Bedding Areas

Question

I am having a lot of the old pine trees cut off my property and plan on putting a larger food plot in the center of the property.  How do I build bedding areas with hinge cutting (height and direction of cut)?  Is there a difference between buck and doe bedding areas?  Thanks, I’m looking forward to your answer.

Craig

Craig,

Deer like to bed and/or rest in areas where the cover at 0-3’ above ground level is very thick.  Anything above 3’ only serves to provide shade when it’s hot.  Such cover can be created by hinge cutting.  However, trees, even when they are hinged-cut, grow up rapidly.  Without additional cuts every few years, the cover will rapidly grow taller and shade out the critical 0-3’ zone that’s important to deer.  That’s why deer prefer to bed in thick grasses or other types of cover that doesn’t grow up as fast as trees.

With that said, deer will readily use the best cover within their range.  If the area where you planned the hinge cutting is primarily forest or open pasture land, then deer will most likely use any cover created!  Deer tend to select the best food and cover in their range.  By creating the best food and cover available in the neighborhood on your property, deer will use it disproportionately more than the surrounding areas.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Plant Identification

Question

Dr. Grant,

I had this plant come up in my turnip plot.  I have never seen it before.  There is only one of them in the whole plot.  It has a stalk like broccoli and a seed head similar to broccoli.  The leaves are about eight inches across.  Do you know what it is?  Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Looks like you have grown some beautiful deer on The Proving Grounds!

Thank you,

Andrew (Michigan)

Andrew,

I don’t know for sure what the plant is.  However, given that there is only one, that it looks like a brassica, and is among turnips in a food plot, I strongly suspect it is a forage brassica and the seed happened to be mixed with the seed you purchased.  If you are concerned, simply pull it before it can go to seed.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunt Invitation

Question

Are you interested in hunting in Dekalb County, Alabama?  In south Alabama the rut is in January.

Van

Van,

I’m very appreciative of the invitation to join you to hunt in Alabama!  Unfortunately, my schedule is jammed for this January.  Keep me in the loop about how you’re hunting progresses!

Growing Deer (and hunting) together,

Grant

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Best Food Plot Crop

Question

I have a dream spot in my backyard.  We have a 42 acre pasture with a pound and plenty of hardwoods.  I want a mature buck and I know they are around as I’ve seen them.  What would be a good food plot to help get one in?

Jordan (eastern North Carolina)

Jordan,

It sounds as if you’ve been blessed with a good hunting location!  Different crops mature at different times during the season.  Soybeans are extremely attractive to deer during the early season.  If they are managed to allow them to produce bean pods, deer readily consume the pods during the late season.  I’ve used Eagle Seed soybeans for years and they have proven their worth time and again.

Deer will readily consume heavily fertilized winter wheat and it is relatively easy to grow.  There are many more options.  I always consider what’s available on the surrounding properties and make sure the food on my place is more attractive than what deer might find across the fence.  For example, if your property is surrounded by timber and/or pasture grass, then almost any common food plot that is heavily fertilized would be the most attractive food source in the neighborhood. If the neighbors have production soybeans and corn, then you may plan on planting crops that mature late and are available after the commercial crops have been harvested.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Minimum Size for Deer Hunting Property

Question

I am looking at available land in Maine to purchase and build a house.  I am an avid hunter, and specifically am looking at lots with acreage, with the hope of successfully hunting on my own property for years to come.  What do you feel would be the minimum amount of land (acres) that would be needed to be able to positively affect the deer population?

Thanks,

Brock

P.S. I just found your website for the first time today.  It is awesome to see you taking the time to take your kids hunting and teaching them the wonders of God’s creation.  My wife and I are expecting our first daughter in February, and I look forward to the opportunity to do the same!  God Bless!

Brock,

Congratulations on expecting your first child!  If I would have realized how great kids were earlier in my life, I would have probably had a quiver full!!

The “minimum amount of land needed” to be able to manage deer is extremely variable based on the quality of each property and the quality and activities on the neighboring properties.  For example, my place (which is called The Proving Grounds) is 1,500+ acres.  However, there are 34 neighboring properties and they don’t have the same deer management objectives as I do.

On the other hand, a friend of mine owns 136 acres in Missouri that borders a 2,000 acre state park.  Some of the largest bucks in Missouri harvested during the past three consecutive years have been taken on those 136 acres.

I suggest you carefully consider your long-term deer management objectives.  Then consider if the property you are considering is large enough to support those objectives and/or if the neighbors will cooperate to help you achieve your deer management objectives.  The size of deer home ranges is extremely variable throughout the whitetail’s range.  However, a constant is that the better the habitat, the smaller the average deer home range size in that area tends to be.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Internship at The Proving Grounds

Question

Hello,

I am a student at the University of Michigan with a strong passion for habitat management and preserving hunting traditions.  As a sophomore, I am currently in the process of choosing a career path and I am looking for opportunities to observe professionals in their respective careers.  I stumbled upon your website today.  After watching all of your videos and reading about The Proving Grounds, I am confident that an opportunity to observe and learn from you would be beneficial to my future.  I understand that you are very busy.  Any help and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Hunter

Hunter,

You are on the right track!  I took a volunteer position with the Bureau of Land Management while in undergrad school and it was a great step in my career path!!  I have several habitat improvement projects planned for this summer.  However, I don’t have any funds designated to pay an intern to assist with this work.  If there are intern or project scholarships available at your school, I’ll be happy to review the program.  I can promise you that you would gain a huge amount of experience in wildlife and habitat management working with my team.  I enjoy working with graduate students and interns.  I’m very thankful for the opportunity my first volunteer position provided.  It was through the Student Conservation Association which is still a good organization.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Barometric Pressure

Question

Dear Grant,

Could you please explain how and why barometric pressure affects deer?  Is it biological, social, or instinct?  I have been trying to watch the barometer and time my hunting according to when the pressure is moving up or down in the range of 30 plus or minus .1 (my job always seem to get in the way).  I understand why we feel the way we do when it is a cold, rainy day and the pressure is low.  I do not understand why deer do not move all that much when the pressure is high.

Thank you for everything you are doing.  You are living my dream.

Jesse

Jesse,

Several research biologists, including myself, have attempted to find a pattern of deer activity related to changes in barometric pressure.  I’m not aware of anyone that has found any meaningful results.  I think this is because of the huge number of additional influences such as wind speed, wind direction temperature, humidity, etc.  In fact, I’ve tried very large, complicated statistical models that included these and more factors and still haven’t found a trend that predicts deer activity accurately.

Generically, I’m confident that deer move before and after significant changes in weather.  However, since such changes can’t be predicted more than a few days in advance, there’s no way to plan hunting dates weeks ahead of time.  After years of trying to find a pattern, the best I can offer is hunt when you can!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broadhead Selection

Question

What kind of broadheads do you like to use?  I shoot Muzzy MX-4’s but I have been thinking about buying some Rage broadheads, but for twice the price I am not sure if they are worth it. What do you think?

Thanks,

Peter

 

 

Peter,

I’ve been using the RedHead BlackOut Broadheads this year and am extremely pleased with the results.  I’ve shot two mature bucks, one doe, a coyote, and some small game.  The bucks had short, paintbrush blood trails.  I was a tad high on the doe (GDTV 45) and actually shot completely through her spine!!  I’ve never had a broadhead perform like that.  Usually, broadheads deflect above or below the spine, but the RedHead BlackOut broadhead is extremely sharp and tough.

I also like that that broadhead flies exactly like my field points at 50 yards.  I’m a huge believer in practicing with Broadheads, but I’ve found that is not necessary with the Blackouts with my setup.  Finally, they are a great value – they are less expensive than comparable quality heads.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crop for Iowa

Question

I live in Iowa and I need a plant that will attract a lot of deer and will give them enough protein for them to grow big racks, preferably something that will sprout quickly.

Mason

Mason,

We all want that magic bean that will sprout quickly, be extremely attractive to deer, yet deer won’t over browse the crop.  Unfortunately, I’ve yet to find that crop.  Crop selection for food plots is not only based on these criteria but also what other food sources are available in the area.  For example, deer will readily consume lower quality food in heavily wooded areas, but won’t touch them when they are planted next to a soybean field.

Antlers are a by-product of an overall healthy diet that includes plenty of digestible protein, calcium, phosphorous, and several trace minerals.  No single plant provides everything that is needed to produce healthy deer.  Soybeans probably come as close as any crop.  That’s why most of the large-antlered bucks harvested are found close to an area that produces soybeans.  I plant soybeans at The Proving Grounds and there are no production soybeans for several counties around.  However, Eagle Seed forage soybeans are easy to grow and very drought resistant.  They are very palatable to deer and shouldn’t be planted in small food plots unless they are protected by a Gallagher Food Plot Protection Fence.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Dove Field by Deer Food Plot

Question

If one plants food plots for deer near fields where dove hunting is to take place, will the dove hunting in September negatively affect the deer hunting in October, November and December?  Or is it better to have dove plots in one area and have deer/turkey plots in another with some distance between them?

Tom

Tom,

I like to limit disturbance near food plots that I plan to hunt as much as practical.  However, deer readily become conditioned to accept activities they don’t association with danger.  I’ve watched deer feeding 200 yards from a very active sporting clay range.  The range was used frequently and the deer became conditioned to the presence of the shooters and the noise.

However, if the range was only used infrequently, I doubt the deer would have been as tolerant of the activity.  Another factor is if there are alternate food sources available in the area of equal or better quality.  If there are, the deer may simply use the alternate food sources.  The availability and distribution of food has a lot to do with where deer forage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What’s in the book “Deer Management 101”?

Question

Could you please describe what type of information is covered in your book, Deer Management 101: Manage Your Way to Better Hunting?

Thank you,

Craig

Craig,

The subject of Deer Management 101 is about the principles of deer herd management.  I explain in simple terms the advantages and disadvantages of managing for different adult sex ratios, age structures, differing numbers of deer per the amount of food available, etc.  It has gads of pictures, graphs and tables that are easy to understand and the information is easy to apply to specific hunting properties.  It’s about deer management and the implications of differing quality habitats, but does not address specific habitat management techniques such as food plots, prescribed fire, etc.

I hope you enjoy and benefit from Deer Management 101!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which Trail Camera to Buy

Question

I am interested in getting a game camera but I am a little confused on what to buy.  Do you have any recommendations or what to look for when buying one?

Bofiss

Bofiss,

I evaluate trail cameras based on:

  1. Whether they spook deer with noise or flash
  2. Quality of images
  3. Battery life
  4. Value of product (price versus length of service)

I’ve had two Reconyx cameras for more than six years!  Those two older models are still working and in the woods today.  I’ve never had another brand work that long!  In fact, I was using Reconyx cameras years before they became a sponsor.  Many times I’ve been filming a buck while his picture was being taken by a Reconyx camera and I’ve never seen a buck react or act like he knew his picture was being taken.  For me, Reconyx is the best value when considering the criteria listed above.  I suggest you use the criteria I’ve listed above and check out several reviews online before making a selection.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Minimum Size of Cover Areas

Question

Grant,

Is there a minimum acreage that’s necessary for switchgrass or other NWSGs to be effective as bedding?  I read where you recommend as big of blocks of cover as possible, such as 10 acres.  I have some areas that are only 2 to 5 acres and am wondering if it’s worth planting switchgrass for cover?  If there’s no use should I plant food plots there instead (although I don’t really need more food)?

Thanks,

Garry

Garry,

Native warm season grasses and other types of cover in any size acreages will be used by deer and other game species.  However, the smaller the area of cover the easier it is for predators to detect the game within the cover.  In addition, deer are not herd animals like elk.  They, especially mature bucks, like their space.

So, if your property has a limited supply of cover, I’d convert the larger plots into cover if you have more than enough quality forage available during both the late summer and late winter stress periods.  I wouldn’t convert food plot acreage to cover if there is not enough food during those stress periods as you would simply be spending resources to solve one problem and create another.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Call

Question

Grant,

When is it time to stop grunting or rattling when trying to attract mature bucks?  When should I stop using attractants, such as estrous?  Basically I am asking the best methods to attract deer during a time when you are unsure if the rut is over or not.

Dave

Dave,

A grunt call and rattling antlers/bag are always in my possession no matter when I hunt.  I have found that grunt calling and to an extent rattling are both neutrals-to-positives in the deer woods.  I rarely see a deer act negatively to the grunt call.  Deer are curious critters and respond well to calling in the right situation.  One situation where I don’t use either a grunt or rattle call is if a buck is close enough to see the source of the call.  Bucks that hear a call but don’t see a deer where they think one should be often leave the area.

I have gads of Reconyx images of mature bucks actively fighting a month after the peak of the rut.  This late activity is often due to fawns reaching sexual maturity (at approximately 70 lbs).  One estrous doe in the middle of several bucks without a date can create some tremendous activity.  As you can imagine, this kind of ruckus can keep bringing in bucks just like you can by rattling and grunting.

After the peak of the rut is over I tend to change my hunting strategy to focus on food sources.  The temperatures are dropping and deer are in need of energy.  Anywhere I can find food and a good number of does there is a greater chance a mature buck is going to be traveling through the area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Stand vs. Still Hunting

Question

Grant,

When it comes time to go hunting is it better to sit in a tree stand or is it better to walk around and try to harvest one?  What is the best thing to do when you know that there are deer in the area?

Jon

Jon,

Deciding whether to still hunt (stealthily move through deer habitat) or stand hunt is largely dependent on what a hunter enjoys more.  I personally like to still hunt when I’m using a firearm more than stand hunting for two reasons.  The first is that I can keep the wind in my favor by simply changing directions.  The second is that I can time when I’m at what type of habitat.  For example, I ease by a cover area earlier in the afternoon and end up at a food source just before dark.  When I still hunt, I move very, very slowly – almost to the point that my body physically hurts due to holding positions to avoid movement or making noise when I sense a deer is near.  It’s difficult to pick my way around crunchy branches, leaves, etc. while trying to see deer before they see me.

With a bow I prefer to stand hunt, although I’ve had great success with my bow still hunting.  In general, getting deer close enough for a bow shot while still hunting is quite a challenge to perform on a consistent basis.  This is especially true with a cameraman and equipment in tow.

Both are fun and rewarding techniques!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Holding Bucks on a Property During the Summer

Question

Mr. Woods,

I have 145 acres that I have managed for 10 years.  I have a 1/4 acre turnip, wheat, clover field, and ½ acre clover field, and the Fisher River runs through the property.  The timber was cut 15 years ago and is still fairly dense.  The bucks don’t stay on my property in the summer.  I’ve got Trophy Rocks and two feeders out.  There are two doe groups that call my place home.  How can I get the bucks to call my place home all year?

Brandon (North Carolina)

Brandon,

In order to hold bucks throughout the year a property must contain good quality food, cover, and water.  It appears that your property has plenty of water.  Next, let’s consider food.  Turnips, wheat, and clover are good food sources during certain times of the year.  Deer readily consume turnips and wheat during the fall and early spring but once they “bolt,” or make a stem during the spring, their attractiveness and forage value quickly drops.  Clover is a great protein source during cool, moist seasons but tends to not provide much forage during the dry portions of summer and during the late winter.  I would try to increase my summer food sources by increasing acreage and planting Eagle Seed forage soybeans or even chicory depending on the plot size and number of deer.  The quality and quantity of crops produced are dependent on the soil’s fertility so it is critical to do an annual soil test and lime and fertilize as needed.

I also suggest you view the cover from a deer’s point of view.  Is there a significant amount of sunlight reaching the forest floor?  Is it difficult to see more than a few feet?  Sunlight means there should be ample growth that can provide both food and cover.  If the forest’s canopy has closed and limited sunlight is reaching the soil, it may be time to consider thinning a portion of the timber.

I’m glad to hear you are using Trophy Rocks.  I get gads of buck pictures throughout the summer at my mineral stations.  Remember, if you provide quality food, cover, and water throughout the year, it is likely bucks will remain on your property!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Number of Points Related to a Buck’s Age?

Question

Grant,

I have heard that once a buck is 3.5 years old that how many points they have is usually the most they will ever have.  Is this true?  We have some video of a buck last year that had a bad front left leg and he was a 120” 8 point.  This year my cousin shot that deer and he was a 155” 10 point at 4.5 years old.  We know it is the same deer because his left front leg is bad.  We had a bad drought here as well, without any rain for 3 ½ months.

Jarvis

Jarvis,

Wow – that’s a neat observation.  Typically by the time a buck reaches 3.5 years old he is only expressing up to 75% of his growth antler potential.  Because bucks have the potential to add a substantial amount of antler growth between 3.5 and 4.5, I prefer to allow them the extra year to mature.  In many cases, as a buck matures he begins throwing more non-typical points.  So, the number of points can certainly change.  I wouldn’t put much stock in the statement “the number a buck will produce is maxed out by the time he is 3.5 years old.”

Given the drought conditions you mentioned, the buck you speak of is probably more of a unique scenario because he was potentially battling a wound last year and was able to put more resources toward growing bone this year.  Severe droughts can limit antler growth.  Finally, it’s important to remember that bucks are unique individuals and the best we can do is discuss averages as any individual can show a totally different antler growth pattern.  Thanks for sharing that unique observation!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Managing 4,000 Acres

Question

Dear Grant,

Our hunting club has been following a management program for many years.  On a 4,000 acre farm we plant around 80 acres in a mixture of clover, Eagle Seed forage soybeans and a wheat/oat combination in the fall.  We maintain about 40 mineral licks on this property and we feel we are at a point where we may have reached our potential.  We only harvest about 8 to 12 mature 4 year old bucks a year.  We feel that on some parts of the property we can carry more deer while others parts may need additional harvest of does.  Our pre-season camera survey shows our fawn recruitment may be low as we have also seen a significant increase in predators on the farm.  Should we hammer the predators, slack off on the doe harvest and continue to provide quality year round forage?  If we can’t grow deer over 140” can we can grow more of them?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Lance (northwest Alabama)

Lance,

It sounds like you have a good deer management program.  I’m glad to hear that you are collecting data before making management decisions.  Camera surveys are a great method of learning deer herd dynamics, however caution must be given to actual fawn recruitment totals from a pre-season survey.  During this time of year some fawns are not old enough to be at the doe’s side.  It is best to look at these numbers as trends from year-to-year.  Collecting hunter observation data is another way of collecting fawn recruitment data and if implemented correctly can provide more accurate results.

Determining how many does to harvest should be based on both a camera survey and the foraging pressure on food resources, with more emphasis on the available food during the two stress periods – late summer and late winter.  To easily and accurately monitor this I place at least one utilization cage (4X10 ft piece of woven wire with the ends tied together) in each food plot to see how much deer are eating compared to growth inside the cage.  If the forage in food plots in some areas of the property is heavily eaten it may be time to harvest more does or increase food plot acreage in that area.

In either case I highly recommend implementing a sustained predator control program.  Coyotes, in particular, can cause a huge amount of stress on adult deer and mortality on fawns.  A recent study in Alabama suggested that fawn recruitment rose 150+% after a heavy predator reduction program.  There is no doubt that coyotes can have a huge impact on deer population quality and quantity!

By maintaining ample high quality food on a year round basis, practicing quality deer management, and reducing predators, the herd’s health will most like improve substantially.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Identifying Habitat Needs in the Mountains

Question

Dr. Woods,

Great website!  I appreciate your dedication to this great sport.

I have 1,500 mountainous acres that have been stripped for mining and logged.  The strip pits have been planted in food plots and adequately support our deer herd.  The loggers left several logging roads cutting around these mountains that have since become overgrown.  With the steep terrain, the deer use these logging roads as much as possible.  My question involves how to manipulate this terrain to allow a more huntable setup while providing natural food and cover.  I am fortunate to have a very skilled dozer operator to help with this.  Should I “touch up” these logging roads and create bottlenecks with the dozer?  Should I clear off ridge tops and wide benches and allow undergrowth to grow back?  I’m looking to manipulate these hard-to-hunt areas with a dozer and a chainsaw.  Any suggestions?

Mark

Mark,

As you have noticed deer readily adapt to man-made roads, especially after they grow up providing concealment for both bedding and movements.  This short, brushy habit is very important for cover but can quickly grow too tall to continue providing cover and is also very difficult to hunt.  If the brush on the roadways is wrist thick or smaller in diameter at the base, a prescribed fire may help to set it back.

You mentioned you have plenty of food plots.  Does this mean there is ample quality forage left over during the two stress periods of late summer and late winter?  If so, you have the ability to produce bucks that are expressing their full antler growth and body weight potential!  Also, if food is over abundant, then creating large clearcuts on ridge tops may be a good plan.  I like food on the ridge tops as the wind is usually more predictable on the ridge tops and therefore easier to hunt.  Deer will bed anywhere there is cover, so you can create bedding areas on the side slopes, etc., and leave the prime hunting areas for food.

With that said, gads of deer are harvested from clearcuts every year if a few suitable trees are left along the edges for stand placement.  Large cover areas can be great all day hunting locations.  Just remember to approach such areas from downwind to minimize disturbance during entry.  Here again, prescribed fire and herbicide application of unwanted cut stumps will keep the cut in an early successional stage.

The problem with using hardwood regeneration for cover (or food) is that they rapidly mature past the cover stage into a closed canopy that goes from quality cover to a desert for whitetails.  To maintain hardwoods as a source of cover, be prepared to do frequent thinning or aggressive prescribed fire to continue reducing the growth to a non-closed canopy stand.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attracting Bucks in North Carolina

Question

Grant,

I have two stands I hunt the most.  I live in North Carolina and in one of the spots we have a climbing stand and know there were three or more mature bucks around before gun season started.  My stand is right on a trail that has 3+ rubs but every time I hunt there I never see anything.  I also have another stand that has been set up for 13 years.  It is right on the edge of a thicket that is too high to see in but I know there are deer there.  This stand is also on a creek. All I have seen hunting in this stand is does. Here in North Carolina the rut is still on and I was wondering if you have any tips on how to draw any size buck out to either location.

Thanks,

Luke

Luke,

That is a good question.  I have been in this same situation and have found that occasionally trying a brand new location now and again can really pay off.  Sometimes hunters (me included) get in a pattern of hunting one or two great locations.  It’s a tough decision to attempt to find a new stand location once the season gets rolling.  In the last several years I have really pushed myself to try new stand locations every year.  I find the most recent sign, throw up a stand, and come back to hunt it when the wind is right.  Remember that deer pattern hunters probably better than hunters pattern deer.  Changing stand locations and never hunting a stand when the wind is wrong are very important steps to harvesting bucks on a consistent basis!

No matter what stand I’m in I always have a grunt tube handy.  Deer are extremely social animals and given the right circumstances can respond very well to a call, especially during the rut.  I’m lightly blowing on the grunt call every 20 minutes or so during the rut.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Learning the Movement Patterns of Deer

Question

Grant,

Hello!  This past winter I started leasing 1,000 acres near Gainesville, Missouri.  We are trying to learn the patterns/movements of the deer on our property.  What are some efficient ways to go about this?

Wyatt

Wyatt,

At The Proving Grounds we have Reconyx trail cameras out year round.  We have cameras placed on food plots, mineral licks, saddles, pinch points, etc.  From these cameras we archive all mature buck pictures in Reconyx image software.  Their software is phenomenal at allowing me to literally see every picture of each buck on an aerial photo of the property and each successive movement from camera-to-camera site.

When placing cameras I like to keep them as close to vehicle access as possible to limit disturbance as I check them.  Several of my cameras are checked right out my truck window.  Since truck traffic is a normal part of daytime activities on The Proving Grounds I can practice minimal disturbance entry (M.D.E.).  Once I determine the general movements of the herd I then start scouting until I find high quality sign.  After the hunting season closes is a great time to find hot trails, rubs, scrape lines, and even shed antlers that further help me to formulate a plan for the next season.  Trail cameras allow me to scout without disturbing the entire property – a key to patterning and harvesting mature bucks!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Where Have the Mature Bucks Gone?

Question

Hi Grant,

I have taken several big bucks over the past ten years.  I have six stands on 2,000 acres.  I have hunted and scouted hard during bow and gun season.  I only saw one shooter buck and he was busted up so I let him walk.  I saw a bunch of spikes and forked bucks.  Any ideas what has happened?  I had several pictures of 135” to 160” deer last year on five cameras and now I don’t have any buck pictures this year.

Marlon

Marlon,

The presence and observability of bucks on any property is largely affected by variables such as the size and duration of the acorn crop, crop rotation by farmers, age structure of bucks, actions of neighbors, etc.  This year I had a bumper crop of red oak acorns and the deer herd responded to them in a big way.  My food plots look better than ever with the primary reason being the deer weren’t using them until last week.  I had to adjust by placing more stands in acorn areas and travel corridors between acorns and bedding areas.  Many hunters throughout the Midwest report the same observations.  However, now that the temperatures are dropping, many of the acorns have been consumed, and the food plots/crop fields are sure to be hot spots soon.

All across America more and more people are allowing young bucks to walk in the hope of seeing/harvesting mature bucks.  Older bucks by default are more wary and more difficult to see/hunt.  Everyone, including myself, has to think about our hunting strategies and develop new tactics to successfully pursue mature bucks year after year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Keeping Cows Out of Food Plots

Question

Hey Grant,

Just want to say that I stumbled upon your show and I have watched about 20 episodes and I really like what you are doing, keep it up!!

How would you go about planting or hunting ground with cows?  Both of my properties are half timber and half cattle pastures.  I get a lot of deer pictures in the summer but no luck in the winter.  What location is best for a mineral lick?  This is primarily how I get my summer pictures, but I do not think it is 90% of the herd.

Sincerely,

Kalvin (northwest Missouri)

Kalvin,

Cows can make it difficult to plant a high quality food source.  I have had the greatest success by excluding cows from a portion of the property.  An easy way to exclude them would be with a single stranded Gallagher fence.  With only one strand the deer will adapt to jumping over it while the cows will remain outside it.  This will allow you to properly plant, fertilize, and grow a high quality food source.  With one or more good food sources deer become much more patternable, especially in an area dominated by pasture land.  I like to hunt the travel corridors between bedding areas and food sources so the deer continue to utilize the food during daylight hours.

I place Trophy Rock mineral licks wherever I think deer are already traveling, below a pond, food plot, etc.  Although I’ve tested the herd’s ability to find mineral by throwing Trophy Rocks into extremely brushy areas and the deer still readily found them.  I like Trophy Rocks because of their sheer number of trace minerals – over 60!  I usually place one about every 160 acres.

Lastly, if you want to increase your camera success and get a better idea of your herd composition I suggest doing a camera survey.  With the help of corn in early August you shouldn’t have too much problem getting a large portion of the herd to stand in front of the camera.  A camera station/s can be set up inside the electric fence/s to exclude cows.   Just be sure to have the corn cleaned up at least two weeks before the start of the first hunting season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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State Regulations

Question

Grant,

For the past couple of years I’ve been under the understanding that with my Missouri archery tags I can shoot a buck before gun season and after gun season but if I don’t shoot one before gun season I can only shoot one after.  Recently I’ve been told I can shoot two bucks after gun season if I didn’t get one before gun season.  I checked the MDC website but that wasn’t very clear either.  Can you clear this up for me?

Jordan

Jordan,

Sometimes I don’t understand hunting regulations either.  This is really a problem when hunting multiple states during the same year.  I reread Missouri’s archery regulations and interpret them to say that you can shoot two bucks with your bow after the rifle season if you did not harvest one before the rifle season in Missouri and still have two “any deer” bow tags left.  However, I’m not an employee of the Missouri Department of Conservation and you certainly need to check with one of their employees to confirm I’ve interpreted the regulations correctly.  Most conservation agents know the regulations well and enjoy speaking with hunters.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shape of Food Plots

Question

Grant,

I’m looking to enclose a part of my property with a few shrub or tree lines.  This chunk of the property is roughly three acres.  After I enclose the field, I would like to plant a food plot.  I am trying to persuade the deer to stay on my property instead of using it for a quick passageway.  I have also noticed that the bucks don’t roam on my property either.  I’m hoping to attract them.  What should I plant and what pattern should I plant the tree lines and food plot to make it a deer haven?

Sincerely,

Lee (Michigan)

Lee,

If I were to plant shrubs or trees I would plant them along the border of the property to obscure the vision of neighboring hunters.  However, I am a much bigger fan of planting stands of native warm season grass.  Tall warm season grasses such as switchgrass and big bluestem provide tremendous thermal cover to limit cold stress and are great for fawning cover during the spring.  In addition, unlike a tree or shrub that may take a decade to become established, native grass is often thick and vibrantly growing within a couple of years.

At the latitude where your property is located a cool season food plot mix of winter wheat and brassicas will capture the herd’s attention.  Winter wheat is generally available at a local ag store while a brassica mix can be purchased from any reputable wildlife seed dealer.  With a soil test and appropriate lime/fertilization, the deer’s table will be set.

Deer seek quality food, cover, and water.  The best way to encourage deer to use your property more than the neighbors’ is to determine if food, cover, or water is scarce in your area and then provide it on your property.  For example, if food is widely available, adding more food won’t necessarily encourage deer to increase the time they spend on your property.  Provide the limiting habitat type in an environment that allows deer to feel secure and deer will readily adapt to using that resource.

A final thought.  The shape of a food plot is not nearly as important as the quality of the food produced or the timing it is available (great food during June won’t attract deer to your property during the fall).  In addition, it is critical to insure deer don’t associate your property with fear.  Don’t overhunt the food plots, etc. on your property!   Make sure you can approach and leave stands without alerting deer or they will become conditioned to using your property only during the dark.  This is critical to managing small acreages which tend to get hunted so frequently that deer simply avoid them during daylight hours.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When do I open my food plot fence?

Question

Dear Grant,

My question is in regards to the Eagle Seed forage soybeans.  I am considering planting some forage soybeans next season.  I have two destination food plots that are approximately ¾ to 1 acre in size.  However, in my past experience with either corn or soybeans, there has been immense browsing pressure from deer and turkeys during the early development stage of my plantings.  This has ultimately disrupted the growth of the plots and my ability to establish a good stand.  This coming year I plan to employ the two-stage fencing system that you discuss, in order to increase my ability to establish those plots.

After employing the fence, how long would you leave the fence in operation before allowing the deer to enter the plot?  I know that the forage soybeans are designed to provide forage through the summer months via their leaves, and then of course the added late season forage.  However, when should you start to allow that browsing pressure to happen, in order to not stunt the growth significantly?  Also, do you completely remove the fencing at The Proving Grounds, or just allow one area of entrance, leaving the remaining fence in operation?

What are your thoughts on the size of my food plots for growing forage soybeans?  I know you discuss planting soybeans and corn in large plots.  Unfortunately, my property is mostly hardwoods.  Without incurring significant clearing costs, I may be able to expand some of my plots to 1 1/2 acres.  Do you think with the implementation of the food plot protection my plots would be large enough?

Thanks for your thoughts!

Rob (Michigan)

Rob,

I think a fencing system is a tremendous tool that allows deer managers to provide quality nutritional forage such as Eagle Seeds forage soybeans.  If providing forage throughout the summer and fall is the goal I would open the fence about four to six weeks (depending on growing conditions) after they germinate.  This will give the soybeans time to completely shade the ground after your second glyphosate application (when using Roundup Ready soybeans).  At this point their roots will be well developed and if the crop was planted fairly early in the planting season over 5 months of leaf foraging time.  If your desire is to provide maximum grain production for fall forage I would leave the fence shut all summer.  Factors affecting these decisions are the number of deer in the local herd and the amount of food resources available in the area.

I would just open a gate in the fence and leave the rest of the fence hot.  This way come hunting season you know where the herd is entering and leaving the plot.  The important aspect is to never leave the fence in place without electricity running to it or the deer will learn they can safely jump over it.

To allow deer to express their full potential I like to provide more forage than the herd can eat, so if a couple more acres are available I recommend adding them to your food plot program.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Time of Day to Hunt?

Question

Grant,

I have a very important question.  This is my first year hunting white-tailed deer.  I have never killed a deer before in my life but I want to harvest one this season for sure.  I live in southwest Tennessee around Nashville.  What time do the mature bucks usually come out from bedding to feeding or vice versa?  I have found the most used path the deer take and I will be setting my climbing stand about 15 feet off the path.  The path has got walls of saplings and hardwood trees surrounding it.  I feel this is where the buck makes his morning, midday or afternoon route, but I’m not sure when.  The reason of the question is because I need to know the best time to go in and hunt that very hot spot.

Chris

Chris,

I’m glad you’re excited about hunting!  If you plan to hunt at or near feeding areas, I would go during the afternoon.  There is a high probability of spooking deer when approaching feeding areas during the morning as deer are probably close by.  If you are hunting travel corridors or near bedding areas, try hunting during the mornings.  This should allow you to approach the stand and not alert deer as they will most likely be near feeding areas.

However, during the peak of the rut I try to hunt as many hours as practical.  Based on my hunting experiences and from viewing thousands of trail camera pictures the bucks often remain active throughout the day during the rut.  My good friend Jessica Brooks from Barnes Bullets experienced this while hunting The Proving Grounds this season.  Jessica and I got to the stand about 9:00 AM on the first day she was here and decided to hunt until 2:00 PM or so.  As soon as we got in our stands a buck was moving across the powerline we were watching.  We remained in our stands through lunch and at 1:30 PM a hit list buck came cruising across the right of way.  Jessica’s VOR-TX bullet worked perfectly and it was all smiles and a downhill drag during the early afternoon!

Basically, if it’s the rut hunt, hunt, hunt.  Any other time of the year consider why deer would be moving in the area of your stand and if you can approach the stand without alerting deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Holding Mature Bucks on Small Properties

Question

Grant,

I own 30 acres and I’m wanting to know the best way to try and pull deer off surrounding land.  I put in about 2 acres of corn and beans while trying to let the back 5 acres grow up.  As expected, I just get bucks on my land during the rut.  How do I keep the bucks around?

Thanks,

Dane

Dane,

I think you are already on the right track.  Two things I would focus on are maximizing the productivity of the food plots to make sure you have enough food to last through the hunting season and minimizing disturbance.  I am a big fan of Roundup Ready crops because I have the ability to nearly eliminate weed competition both before planting and well after the crop has come up.  This helps to ensure that my lime/fertilizer is being utilized by the crops, eaten by deer, and transferred to the bodies and antlers of my deer herd.  Healthy plants are also more palatable to deer and thus hold their attention better.

Disturbance can be difficult to manage on small properties because they are often multiuse areas.  To maximize deer use I always try to limit my presence as much as possible.  Obviously planting/spraying, etc. is required but other than that I try to stay out of the areas designated as cover or sanctuaries.

Remember that deer require food, cover, and water daily.  If you have the best sources of food, cover, and water in your neighborhood and deer don’t associate these resources with danger, mature bucks will spend a majority of their time on your property versus the neighbors.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Tours of The Proving Grounds

Question

I hunt about 1,000 acres on Bear Creek just off of Highway 65.  I have put in a few food plots this year but have had very little success hunting them.  The acorn crop this year is what I suspect is to blame.  Have you had any similar experiences?

Also, I was wondering if you ever give educational tours at The Proving Grounds? I am trying to decide what type of changes I should make to create a more desirable food source.

Thanks for your help.

Jake

Jake,

I agree with you that deer are not using food plots in our neighborhood because they are still feeding on the huge crop of acorns.  My wife recently went to western Kansas on a pheasant hunt and she reports seeing gads of deer in ag fields.  There are very, very few acorns in western Kansas so deer are much easier to pattern there because the food sources are much more constant and predictable!  However, I think the acorn crop is mostly consumed and deer should begin using our food plots soon.

I’ve had outstanding crops (even in the drought we experienced in our neighborhood this year) with the recipe we show on GrowingDeer.tv.  We use Antler Dirt, a composted and humified poultry litter.  The primary warm and cool season crop I grow for deer is Eagle Seed forage soybeans.  This combination works wonderfully on our poor, rocky Ozark soils.

We will be hosting one shed hunt this spring and two field days during the late summer.  There will be details posted about each of these events as they approach.  We’ve started a waiting list for these events as they were very popular last year and folks want to pre-register for the 2011 events.  We limit attendance to 100 folks at each event for logistical reasons.  You can be placed on the pre-registration list by emailing your name and contact information to us.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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NWSG Mix for Bedding Cover

Question

Grant,

I have 2 acres of food plot ground that I need to turn into a bedding area.  Do you recommend the normal little/big bluestem/indian grass, monoculture of switchgrass, or something new that I can experiment with?  I don’t mind being a guinea pig with something you might want tried.  I’ve always worked with the philosophy nothing ventured, nothing gained.  I have over 400 acres (200 woods, 15 water, 100 normal prairie mix, 30 food plots, and 55 farmed) in west central Indiana with lots of ground around me being farmed.  I’ve been working with this land about 10 years. Any ideas are much appreciated.  All I want is for the bucks to reach their full potential.

A Brother in Christ,

Percy

Percy,

It’s sounds as if you have a wonderful habitat management program in place!  I also like to experiment, but I think we’d both be better served experimenting with something that isn’t as proven as the native warm season grass mix that you discussed.  That mix, or maybe that mix plus 20% switchgrass is a great recipe for creating bedding/escape cover.  The only suggestion I would add is that I like bedding areas a bit larger.  Coyotes can probably smell every deer in a 2 acre area when they are downwind.  The other experiment might be different varieties of the same species you mentioned.  For example, I’ve had great success with Cave In Rock switchgrass.  However there are gads of other varieties.  With the habitat you described and allowing bucks to reach maturity, they should be able to express their full potential!  Let me know what you try and learn!

Growing Deer (and learning) together,

Grant

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How to Collect Harvest Data

Question

Grant,

I love your GrowingDeer.tv shows, excellent topics and video.  Could you do a video on collecting harvest data?  What to collect and why?  Most importantly, how to remove the jawbone?

Thanks and happy hunting!

Britt

Britt,

Thanks for the kind words!!  We film what we are doing each week and have time to film.  When we are collecting data on a project, we tend to be very busy weighing, measuring, recording, etc.  Our data collection sessions are usually not a pretty sight, and we don’t seem to slow down to mess with the camera while on those projects.  However, data collection is a very important topic, so we’ll try to remember to record that information when appropriate.  Until then, remember that estimating the age based on the lower jaw, an accurate body weight (be consistent and collect either all whole or gutted weights), gender, and antler size or lactation are the basics that everyone should collect to help manage their deer herd!  Trends in the average weight per age/gender class is an excellent indicator of the herd’s health and response to current habitat conditions.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How do you decide how many white-tailed does to harvest off a hunting property?

Question

Hello Grant,

What do you think about shooting does?  And when ?

One of my leases is about 205 acres in Chappells, South Carolina.  I have had this lease for 2 years and have just renewed for two more.  We have only killed 3 bucks on this land, all 15” to 18.5” and 155 – 185 lbs.  I try not to over hunt this lease and have talked to other hunters to see if they would let small basket rack deer go.  Some will and some won’t.  I think they shoot a fair amount of does, so my thinking was if I am seeing a good number of does then the bucks will show up soon.  Also Josh is my wife’s cousin!!  God bless you and thank you for helping me understand deer and making the outdoors better than we found it!!  Lots of luck hunting!!

Jeff

Jeff,

I still have some friends that hunt in that area of South Carolina!  I used to live in Abbeville.  I use doe harvest to accomplish two deer management objectives.  These are to balance the adult sex ratio and to ensure each deer has ample quality forage to meet my deer management objectives.

Observation data and/or a camera survey can be used to accurately estimate the adult sex ratio.  I like an adult sex ratio of 1:1 for my management objectives.  I also like deer to express their full potential of producing antlers and fawns for each age class.  Therefore, I want more quality forage than then herd will consume.  This means quality forage left during the two typical stress periods of late summer and late winter.

If deer are consuming all of the quality forage, then a doe harvest is in order.  Once that is determined, I harvest enough does to either balance the adult sex ratio and/or allow enough food to be available to ensure each deer has all they wish to consume during the stress periods.  To meet that goal, I start harvesting does when the season opens.  I harvest the first doe that presents a safe shot.  I don’t select young or mature does for harvest because both have advantages to the herd.  Hence a harvest of what’s available will usually result in a mix of all age classes.

I hope this information helps and that you enjoy a safe and enjoyable deer management program!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Holding Bucks on a Property

Question

Every year I have some great bucks show up on my trail cameras in September and October. Unfortunately, my neighbor’s (a local farmer) property is overcrowded with hunters.  Because my property primarily holds food (agricultural fields and small food plots) and his property contains most of the bedding areas (large wooded areas) what do you think is the best way to hold bucks on my property and keep them away from the neighbor?

Ryan

Ryan,

As bucks mature, many of them will use a smaller home range to avoid danger.  The smaller the area that contains quality food, cover, and water, the smaller their home range size can be.  A great plan to maintain mature bucks on your property a larger percentage of the legal hunting time is to insure that everything they need is available on your property.

Within that large goal, my priority is cover (as you’ve discovered).  Deer will spend the majority of the legal hunting hours in cover.  Hence, by providing the best cover in a deer’s home range, you’ve substantially increased the odds they will be on your property from dawn until dusk.

It sounds like you’ve identified what you need to work on when you stated “…his property contains most of the bedding areas…”  The bucks in your neighborhood are likely on the neighboring property during most of the legal hunting hours.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Spacing of Feeders

Question

Hi Grant,

I hunt on 300 acres in north central Texas.  How many free-choice protein feeders should I be deploying during the year?  Do you recommend a certain feeder/acre ratio?

Thanks!

Phil

Phil,

Reducing competition at feeders benefits the herd.  So, it’s always a tradeoff of the amount of work and resources required to maintain additional feeders versus the benefits of reducing stress.  A good rule of thumb is one feeder per 100 acres, depending on the local deer density and habitat quality.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Old 6 Point

Question

Dr. Woods,

Every Monday morning when I get to my computer I check to see what new information you have on your website.  I learn a lot from you and your website.

I have emailed you before about managing my 800 acre farm.  Now my question is about trying to get rid of bad genetics.  We harvested a couple of 6 points this year during gun season that are for sure 3 year olds, if not older.  These deer both had lots of mass and had bigger bodies compared to other deer in the area.  We have also had a history of some huge 6 points on the farm.  In all the reading I’ve done harvesting and getting rid of these genetics is a good thing, but I would like to get your input on the topic.  How old should a person let a deer get when they have only 4 or 6 points?  When this is all the points they have, is this because of bad genetics or lack of food sources?  On The Proving Grounds would you harvest a 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 year old 4 or 6 point?

Thank you, I learn something new from you every week.

Brett

Brett,

The “old 6 point” is a deer that nearly every property has had sometime in the past or will in the future.  They are the deer that are always joked about sitting around the campfire during hunting season.  On my property I have set my harvest standards to focus on bucks that are 4.5 years old or older.  At 4.5 years old bucks are exhibiting at least 75% of their antler potential.  At that point, no matter their antler score, I consider them a trophy if I can get a harvest opportunity.  Mature bucks, regardless of antler score, are a tremendous challenge.

I do not try to remove genetic traits from a free ranging herd because study after study has proven its ineffectiveness.  Deer herds have such diverse genetics that removing a handful of deer from a herd does little to change their genetic makeup.

In some situations a buck (whether it was 1 or 7 points) is very important to the herd.  This is the case with herds that are heavily weighted toward does.  In this situation every buck is needed to breed does during their first or second estrus cycle and not unduly prolong the rut.  With every estrus cycle that a doe does not get breed, the later her potential buck fawn is birthed and behind the rest of his age class, resulting in delayed development and possibly death during his first winter.

With that said, my personal harvest goals are different than my young children’s and my 80 year old father’s.  They have the green light to harvest whatever they desire.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Harvest Goals of Neighbors

Question

Grant,

How many acres is The Proving Grounds?

I lease 1,000 acres.  We try to manage our deer by selecting which deer we harvest.  We only shoot 8 points or better.   We have tried food plots but we never have a lot of success.  We kill one or two good bucks each year (125” to 140”).  I’m just not sure what our surrounding clubs are doing.  Do you have surrounding properties that also shoot only mature deer?

Jared

Jared,

The Proving Grounds is roughly 1,500 acres.  I am surrounded by many, many (34 to be exact) small properties, nearly all of which do not follow our management principles.  This can make it very difficult to grow mature deer.  However, I’m able to produce mature deer every year by striving to provide everything a mature buck requires throughout the year – ample food, cover, and water.  This, in addition to large sanctuaries and limited disturbance allows bucks to spend most of their time on The Proving Grounds and less time on neighboring land.  One way to monitor the success of this strategy is that I’ve identified 20 bucks to put on our hit list this year!  Providing ample quality food, cover, and water can make a huge difference in the size of a mature buck’s home range.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Processing Deer Meat

Question

When I started hunting 8 or 9 years ago I didn’t have a lot of guidance on field dressing or final processing of deer.  I began the search for videos and written materials to assist.  The best, in my opinion, is put out by our own KY Afield program.  I have such a great respect for your material, have you ever done anything like this or considered producing something?  I ask as I embark on the processing of this year’s first harvest.

Bruce

 

Bruce,

Congratulations on the harvest!  My family and I consume about 10 deer annually.  We process our own meat (on our kitchen table).  However, we’ve never recorded or described the process.  I debone the meat and then filet out any connective tissue, etc.  We use a vacuum sealer to wrap the meat as the final step in our process.  Tracy, my wife, just prepared a loin from at 4.5 year old buck I recently harvested and it was fabulous!

Unfortunately, I think creating a processing video would require more of a studio setup (lighting, etc.) than we normally use.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Native Warm Season Grasses as Forage?

Question

Hello Grant,

Are there any native grasses that deer forage upon?  I have been planting eastern gamma grass from remnant stands in northern Missouri and noticed some light browsing on them.  Is this possibly deer or do they not really browse any of the native grasses?  If they do browse some of them I would like to know so I can add that particular species to my prairie restoration project.

Phil

Phil,

If I wanted to provide forage for my deer herd I would concentrate my resources on well fertilized forage crops.  Although a few warm season grasses can provide some forage value, forage crops will do it in a much more efficient way.  Deer simply don’t consume much grass.  Certainly legumes can be incorporated into the warm season grass mix.  Legumes, with the help of rhizobium, fix nitrogen and are great sources of protein.  Plants like partridge pea or Illinois bundle flower are examples of native legumes.  However, this technique will not provide near the tonnage per acre as a crop managed for forage, and it will cost much more per pound produced.

I’m a huge native forage fan, but managed forage crops will certainly produce more tonnage of higher quality food per acre.  I tend to manage cover for cover and food for food to maximize the quality of both.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Crops Matched To Equipment

Question

Dr. Grant,

I stated in a previous question that we are very new to food-plotting.  We planted 2 acres this fall and growth inside the cage is pretty good but outside the cage deer are consuming the forage before any of it can mature.

The equipment we have to work with includes an excellent tractor, a disk, harrow drag, and a broadcast spreader that mounts on a 4-wheeler.

Are there certain types of crops you recommended we stick to based on the equipment we have to work with?  I ask this because one issue we struggle with is planting depth.

Thanks!

JP

JP,

I would concentrate on planting high quality winter wheat food plots.  This requires planting the seed a minimum of 45-60 days before the first average frost.  A soil test would also be beneficial in determining exactly what the lime/fertilizer requirements are.  When submitting a soil test ask the testing agency for maximum yield results.  Because most agencies are geared toward agricultural production soil test results are often geared toward economic return instead of maximum yield.

Winter wheat grows well when broadcasted and can be a covered from 0-1 inches deep with soil and germinate.  Planting just before or during a rain ensures the best germination rates.  Winter wheat can jump during warm spells and is quick to come out of the gate in the spring.

Your equipment can also plant almost any other small seeded crop that doesn’t need to be buried to a specific depth like clover, brassicas, etc.  By adding clover to the wheat, the time the plot will be productive for deer and turkey can be extended well into the spring or summer depending on the amount of soil moisture available.  If you use this mix, make sure you mow or spray the wheat once it begins to make a stem versus a blade.  Once wheat forms a stem, it is not palatable to deer and will create enough shade to substantially reduce the clover’s production.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crops for Kentucky

Question

Dr. Grant,

Thank you for GrowingDeer.tv.  I have enjoyed it all year.  Between the 2010 QDMA Convention, Quality Whitetails and GrowingDeer.tv, I was able to turn my 57 acre farm in western Kentucky into a deer paradise!  Last Sunday I shot the best deer of my life going to a TSI bedding area I cut this spring.

I have less than 3 acres to plant for food plots.  I want to plant crops for fall thru early spring without clearing the table.  What type of blend would you recommend?  Also, I don’t mind planting every year so annuals would be fine.  Thank you for inspiring me and may God bless you!

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for the kind words!  As you have seen on my property I am a heavy believer in Eagle Seed forage soybeans.  They provide tremendous protein forage throughout the summer and have the ability to produce more pounds of cool season forage in the form of grain than many cool season forages.  They also act as a fail safe for fall food plots.  If it doesn’t look like the plot will produce enough grain (25+ bushels/acre) the plot can be easily broadcasted/drilled into with a green forage, like winter wheat and/or brassicas.

The Eagle Seed forage soybeans are among the most drought resistant crop I’ve tried.  They are a huge part of my deer management program.  I have them planted at several projects in Kentucky and have been very pleased with the results and the deer observed/harvested at those plots.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Establishing Food, Cover & Water

Question

Dear Dr. Woods,

My folks have a 30 acre farm which is roughly 75% pasture and 25% woods.  I’ve convinced my dad of the need to plant food plots, add more springs for water sources, possibly add some fruit and nut trees, and add some pines for shelter.

I realize that without seeing the property and the topography it is hard to make suggestions and recommendations, but could you tell me what types of plots and seed mixtures to start with in the spring and carry on through winter with?  I want to establish perennial plots for antler growth and the overall health of the deer.

Is there a need for transition zones for cover for the deer to feel safe if the plots are planted along the edges of the fields where they meet the woods?  What is the best way to establish shelter for the deer?  Also, is it better to have a larger pond or more small to medium size springs as far as water sources?

I would greatly appreciate any advice you can give me.

Amen to spending time with our Creator.

Dexter

Dexter,

Most pasture areas, just as you mentioned, are lacking food and cover in a big way.  Cover can be created in several ways.  The easiest method is to simply allow an area of a property to grow up and periodically be set back with fire, mowing, or some other disturbance.  However this method only creates quality cover if good cover species are already present, such as native warm season grasses.  If the pasture is primarily cool season grass species, like fescue or smooth brome, it will probably be necessary to kill those species and plant grasses like switchgrass and big bluestem.

For food plots to attract deer well fertilized/limed winter wheat is hard to beat.  Clover mixes are good during most times of the year but can leave you hanging when you want to hunt.  If a few acres are available I suggest you try Eagle Seed’s forage soybeans.  Even if it is heavily browsed, as long as a few leaves are present, it is providing nutrients and would be very easy to transition into a cool season green plot if needed during late summer.

One or two perennial water sources should be efficient for the property.  Enjoy improving the habitat!  I find that as much fun as hunting!!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Hunt a Stand

Question

Hey Grant,

I’ve talked with you a few different times about different subjects, but I have a new question.  I was just watching a show and they say to stay out of your “best spots” until the seeking or the rut phases.  In Northeast Louisiana we hunt off the Mississippi River.  Our rut in this area is anywhere from Christmas through February.  If I stayed out of my spot until then, I wouldn’t get to hunt it until the last month of hunting season, 3 months after the season opens.  I’ve been very selective with my hunting of these locations.  What do you recommend?  I’ve hunted some spots once since bow season opened back on October 1 and the deer are still nocturnal on my camera with zero pressure.  I only go in to check my camera every two weeks or so.  What do you recommend?

Lee

Lee,

I was just in your neck of the woods a few weeks ago.  The Mississippi River corridor can provide some tremendous hunting!  I think every stand has a different time of the season when it is “hot.”  Stands over food plots are great when the deer prefer that food source; stands by oaks are great when the acorns are falling, etc.  This is the same for stand locations that are not productive unless the rut is in full swing.  I have a couple of these on my property where a downed fence or saddle bottlenecks bucks as they troll between doe bedding areas.  Anytime but during the peak of the rut and these stands are nearly worthless, but sit in one during the rut and bucks are likely to pass by all day long.  If I were to sit in these stands before the rut I would only be burning them up with my scent and disturbance.

I try to have as many potential stand sites as possible and be flexible to finding new locations.  Disturbance is detrimental to any stand because deer certainly associate hunting pressure with danger.  I try to limit disturbance and conditioning them to my presence as much as possible.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Rutting Young Bucks

Question

Dr. Grant,

This rut was a very good one for me in Ohio!  I have been bowhunting deer for 26 years and have never seen a doe being breed by a buck.  Last week on November 10th while on a stand a little 5 point buck came in chasing a doe.  They stopped at 35 yards in front of me and the buck breed her.  I was amazed!  They just stood there for 15 minutes without moving, and then I see another doe walking up.  She walked up to the little buck, and he breed her too…WOW!!  I was blown away by all this!  My thoughts were that I have way too many does in my area, because there were no other bucks, and that the other bucks were locked-down with does.  What are your thoughts?  Thanks for your help!

Brent

Brent,

That is a neat observation.  It was once common in the deer world to think that only the oldest bucks in the herd did all the breeding, but after years of research this is changing rapidly.  Bucks of all age classes can get in on the action even when herds are well managed and contain balanced sex ratios and age structures.  This is because a mature buck can only tend to one doe at a time, very different from a bull elk that tends a whole harem.  With large numbers of does coming into estrus during the peak of the rut subordinate bucks can also find a date or two.  Remember that genetics are set at conception so there is no disadvantage to a deer herd genetically speaking if a young buck breeds a doe.  However, if the buck age structure is such that young bucks must do all the breeding, then they may not express their full antler development potential as they will spend huge amounts of energy during the rut.

If you are unsure about your herd’s adult sex ratio or age structure it would be beneficial to start collecting observation data and to perform a camera survey.  These are great tools to ensure the herd’s sex ratio and age structure are doing well.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Too Much Food?

Question

Sorry for all the questions!  Every time I watch one of your videos I think of more.

I know last year you planted corn.  If you have planted corn this year, why haven’t you hunted over it?

Could you make a video telling us more about why you hunt a particular area?  Oftentimes you mention where you hunt regarding to food plots, but I’m referring to why you choose particular trees in the woods.  It’s something I struggle with and often see people on television and wonder how a particular buck can walk within 15 yards of that ONE tree the hunter chose.

I have a lot of food this year (too much I think) and I already had a lot of thick bedding cover (20 acres of food and 25 acres of thick cover).  I’m seeing tons of deer but can only do so by hunting over the big plots.  I want to try to create some sort of transitional cover where deer can stage so I can hunt there and not spook deer over plots.  I have 30 acres to play with.  Any recommendations?  Pines would grow well here, in the South, but would take some time to grow.  NWSGs would grow pretty quick but might act more as a sanctuary/bedding area.  I haven’t seen you hunt over NWSGs, do you use them only as cover?

Eric

Eric,

Most of the corn I planted this year was consumed by wireworm before it germinated.  I wish I had some corn to help feed the deer and as a hunting location!

I do try to discuss why I select where I’m hunting.  However, I’ll try to focus on that a bit more.  Picking the correct tree is about as much art as it is science.  For me, how the wind behaves (swirls, eddies, etc.,) at that tree and my ability to approach that tree without disturbing deer are key factors in my selection process.

The only problem with too much food is the volunteer crops the next year (they are never as good as planted crops at the appropriate spacing, etc.).  Not every property has existing bottlenecks. However, they can be fairly easily created by placing multiple bales of hay, using a Gallagher fence, cutting a few trees, or other features that deer don’t wish to cross.

I like hunting NWSG stands!  If I know where the deer are bedding and the preferred food source, I can find the travel corridor.  I can use the tools listed above to narrow that travel corridor to create some great stand locations that are approachable without disturbing the deer.

I agree with you, I’d much rather hunt the transition zones rather than the food sources, especially in the mornings.  Remember that spooking a deer doesn’t just impact that hunt, but hunts for the next several weeks in that area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mature Buck Sightings

Question

Hi Grant,

First of all I’d like to say thanks because I’ve learned a lot from you and you have made me a much better outdoorsman!  I’ve been fortunate enough to harvest some pretty impressive whitetails over the years.  I’ve been bowhunting for about 12 years now and I’m obsessed with the sport.  I love watching and studying their behaviors and quirks!  I recently got permission to hunt some land that hasn’t been hunted in about 5 years.  I’ve seen plenty of deer (early October thru the present) but no shooter bucks yet….  I’m looking for 150+ mature bucks.  I’m huge in scent elimination and never wear my hunting clothes in vehicles or anywhere but the woods!  I always play the wind and will get down if the wind changes for the bad.  There is plenty of water and food for them, the rut is starting to heat up, and all I’m seeing are little bucks chasing and cruising for does.  Should I scratch this spot for the rest of this season?

Thanks,

Jeremy

Jeremy,

It sounds like you use great hunting techniques and have a good hunting location!  Many folks are discussing the lack of mature bucks observed cruising this year.  I wouldn’t give up on your spot!!  If there’s good habitat, limited hunting pressure, and an area large enough for mature bucks to survive neighbors that might not practice passing yearling bucks, there will be mature bucks.  Consider using some Reconyx trail cameras to capture images of mature bucks without spooking them.  Then you will have the confidence to hunt the area and know which areas the bucks are using.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Changing Patterns

Question

I’ve noticed strange changes in deer movement during the last couple of years which has me concerned.  I hunt a parcel of private land, 180 acres that runs along the Black River in central Wisconsin.  I’ve hunted this property since 1995 when I met my wife.  I have been very successful hunting the property and have had many mature buck sightings.  But it seems that in the last couple of years the deer have removed themselves from our property and crossed the river to move north.  This change is taking place about the same time every year, right around the last week in October and the first part of November.  I’m not sure what the cause of this is.  There is not a lot of hunting pressure on our property as I am the only one bowhunting the 180 acre parcel 99% of the time.  We have agricultural land that is planted with corn, oats, and clover on a yearly basis. The woods are a mix of hardwoods and other timber with many white and red oaks throughout the property along with wild plum and apple trees.  There is no food shortage on the property.

Other than the rut, what may cause the deer to leave the property during daylight hours and come back through only after dark?  I have not seen any sign or indication of bear or wolves on the property this year as I have in the past. Something has changed and I am looking for some suggestion on what direction I should take on hunting the property now.  Thanks for your time. Great show, I love all the information you provide!!

Tony

Tony,

Your hunting property sounds wonderful!  Deer typically only change movement patterns due to a changed location of a food source or fear of predation.  If the location of preferred food sources on your property and the neighbors’ hasn’t changed, then fear of predation is most likely causing the deer to change their travel pattern.

The source of fear could be from either two or four-legged predators.  However, it sounds more like avoidance of two-legged predators.  If you using the same techniques and spending the same amount of time hunting, I’d make sure trespassing is not an issue.  It sounds as if someone else is most likely alerting the deer and causing them to avoid your property during daylight hours.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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First Deer

Question

Grant,

My brother wants to get a BIG buck for his first deer.  Do you have any tips to give me to help him get the kind of buck that he really wants?

Edward

Edward,

I would encourage your brother to set his goals on something a bit more obtainable.  Hunting, like any skill, takes time to develop.  New athletes shouldn’t be disappointed if they don’t win a championship during their first season.  Likewise, new hunters shouldn’t be discouraged if they don’t bring home a trophy (by mature hunter standards).  I encourage my daughters to enjoy the hunt and the process of learning about deer behavior and hunting skills.  I’m thrilled when they harvest any deer and so are they.  I would encourage safety, learning about deer, and harvesting a legal deer as a starting point.  That’s a strategy that has worked for years with new hunters, regardless of their age.

Growing Deer (and deer hunters) together,

Grant

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Harvest Goals for a New Hunter

Question

Dr. Grant,

I’ve been hunting for a couple of years now and I’ve shot two deer including a button and an 8 pointer.  I want to know if I should kill more does or bucks?

Thomas

Thomas,

What you harvest depends on your personal goals as a hunter and the deer management goals of the property where you hunt.  With that said, make sure your goals are realistic.  For example don’t hold out for buck that scores 150” if very few bucks with antlers that large have ever been harvested on the property you’re hunting.  Having realistic objectives will allow for more satisfaction from your hunting efforts.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Corn as Cover

Question

Dr. Woods,

Thanks for all the help this year, my property is improving because of it!  I planted 20 acres of corn on my 100 acre parcel with 5 acres of green fields, mostly surrounded by cover.  Corn has been a huge attractant, with 30 deer per site, but that number is tapering off.  95% of the deer are does, but I did have a shot at a mature, 3.5 year old deer last week which made me excited (I missed).  Tonight I saw 8 does and my dad saw 2.  We are not seeing a lot of bucks which could be due to lack of cover.  We had a lot of bucks in the summer, but they’re not showing up on trail cameras now.

All that sounds great, so maybe I shouldn’t change much but since deer sightings (especially bucks) are dropping I’m thinking it is best.  Most of my hunting has to be over the corn/food plots because of limited cover (I have a centralized 20 acre bedding area, but hunting it would ruin my “sanctuary”).  I’ve basically been gun hunting the edges of the food source outside of the bedding area.

I want to add more cover for next year, as I believe I actually have too much food.  If I plant new cover with SG will corn make all that much difference in what I see next year?  That is, if I had all the food a deer could eat in the form of clover (which stays green here throughout hunting season) would it act as good of an attractant as corn, or can corn REALLY attract deer?

As you know, corn is a land consuming crop and I was hoping it would act as good bedding cover, but it really hasn’t.  It is good for cover as a transitional area, but I don’t find deer bedding in it, they prefer the thicker forests next door or in my central sanctuary.

If I turned the rest of my property that’s not part of a sanctuary now (40 acres) to SG and put in several small clover attraction plots, would it give me a better chance of seeing the same number of deer throughout the season while providing more cover?

I also know that hunting does usually leads to bucks.  I’m just not seeing them.  Any thoughts?  Should I plant more cover or not try to fix it if it isn’t broken?

Eric

Eric,

I’m a big fan of the “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it” strategy.  With that said, I’ve experienced deer adapting to the use of standing corn as cover in areas where corn is not traditionally planted many times.  I think corn can be a great source of cover eight or more months out of the year.  Any cover or food source can be easily over hunted to the point that mature bucks will only use that area at night or will stop using that area totally.

I’m curious, did acorns become available about the same time deer reduced the usage of the corn plot (even acorns not on your property)?

Corn needs to be rotated with another crop.  So preparing enough food plot area to allow corn and soybeans to be planted in rotation is a great technique.  In addition, it’s always a good plan to have smaller hunting plots scattered throughout the property so they can be approached and hunted in any wind direction.  In addition, these plots will reduce the hunting pressure on the feeding plots (corn and soybeans).

By providing multiple food plots, feeding plots in a sanctuary, and ample cover, you should have some great opportunities to hunt throughout the season while producing quality bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Doe Tarsal Glands

Question

Is the degree of tarsal staining in does related to the onset of estrus?  Do does lick tarsals clean after ovulation or breeding?

Doug

Doug,

That’s a great question!  I am not aware of any research related to tarsal glands on does.  That would be a great research project!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which Crops Do Deer Prefer More Than Acorns?

Question

I have a friend here in Missouri that is a conservation agent.  He is also in charge of Peck Ranch Wildlife Refuge.  He had the opportunity to visit one of your farms and took notes on how to get the most out of food plots.  I posed this question to him and he said that I needed to ask a real professional, you.

I have always been told that the outcome of your acorn production depends on the weather and rain from the previous year.  Is there any truth to that?  I know that deer prefer acorns over any other food source here in southeast Missouri.  Is there another food source that deer will frequent even if you have a bumper crop of acorns?

I have about 300 acres that I manage very strictly with 105 in pasture and the rest in thick cover, but I don’t have an abundance of mature oak trees.  I have very little pressure during the hunting seasons and I would love to utilize my farm to its fullest extent.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

There is some truth to the statement that acorn production depends on the weather during the previous year.   Acorns on red oaks develop from flowers from the previous year.  A late frost can damage or kill those flowers and when that occurs there won’t be many acorns the following year.  The flowers on a white oak tree develop into acorns the same year.  Therefore a late frost, drought, etc., can reduce white oak acorn production the same year it occurs.

There are gads of factors that influence acorn production such as insects.  This year Jumping Oak Gall caused most of the white oaks on my property to lose 90% of their leaves during the summer and all emerging acorns.  Given all the uncontrollable factors that can impact acorn production, I never count on them as a food source or hunting location.  I view them as strictly opportunistic – that is I select stand sites near acorns when deer are feeding on them.

When acorns are available, deer do prefer them over most food sources.  Even in ag production areas, deer will leave corn and beans to feed on acorns.  They do the same thing at The Proving Grounds.  However, as soon as the acorn crop is gone, deer will readily use the corn and forage soybeans grown here.  Therefore, I always want great crops.  I’ve seen significant increases in antler development, deer herd density, and body weights at The Proving Grounds as a result of our habitat management program which includes growing an Eagle Seed forage soybean and corn rotation.  If practical, I encourage you to consider converting all or a portion of the pasture area at your farm to crop production.  Such a program could have a huge impact on the quality of the deer at your farm!  We’ll be hosting two field days during 2011.  I hope you will consider joining us and seeing the habitat management techniques we use to improve our herd quality and hunting opportunities!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will Deer Avoid a Dead Deer?

Question

Dr. Grant,

Will the presence of a dead deer in a hunting area – specifically one used for bow hunting – have an impact on other deer using that area for travel or feeding?  A deer that was shot and not recovered during the rifle season was discovered within 100 yards of my stand and I am concerned that it may deter other deer from entering the area.  What do you think?

Sincerely,

Bryan

Bryan,

I had a research project for 11 years in South Carolina.  Briefly, we shot as many does as we could and only mature bucks from October 15th through January 1st (legal in South Carolina).  We kept detailed records of what was seen, harvested, stand location, etc.  About 25% of the mature bucks that were harvested were shot out of the same stand and during the same hunt as when a doe had already been shot and left laying where she died (until the end of that hunt).

Deer die from natural causes all the time.  I doubt deer view death as humans do.  I doubt deer will avoid another deer’s carcass.  In fact, I’ve harvested many deer within close range of a gut pit (where the remains of deer were placed after all meat and samples were removed) at the same project described above.  After placing the remains of literally 100’s of deer in that area for scavengers to consume (it was a scary place at night), it remained a good stand to observe and harvest deer for more than a decade.

I’m much more concerned about human scent and disturbance than I am about the disturbance of a deer carcass in a hunting area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Grunt Calls

Question

I haven’t found any good videos or tips on grunting or rattling a deer.  Can you go over what to do in different situations?  I have no clue how to do it well.  I try but I don’t know if I’m annoying the deer or if it is actually working.

It would mean a lot to a new bow hunter.  I got my first 8 pointer with my bow this year.  I’ve been gun hunting for 7 years now, but when you bow hunt you need the deer in so much closer.

Thanks,

Tyrel

Tyrel,

Congratulations on harvesting an 8 pointer with your bow!  Both immature and mature bucks (and does) will frequently respond to grunt calls.  However, they can also shy away from them if they associate the call with danger.  In areas where hunters are calling frequently, I use my grunt call sparingly.  I like to grunt if I see a mature buck that’s out of range and moving away.  I will also call when I don’t observe deer.  In this situation, I begin with a very low volume.  I increase the volume if I don’t believe deer are responding.  I believe, if used appropriately, that deer usually respond positively or ignore grunt calls.  However, deer can certainly be conditioned to avoid grunt calls if they associate them with danger.  Therefore, I think timing and volume are more important than tone of grunt calls.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Can Deer Scent Spook Whitetails?

Question

When using deer scent, can you use the wrong scent at the wrong time and spook whitetails?

Ryan

Ryan,

Like humans, deer are individuals.  Some deer may react positively to a specific scent, while others ignore or avoid the scent.  Another factor is the amount of hunting pressure the local herd receives.  If they’ve had a negative experience with a specific scent and encounter it again, they will most likely avoid the scent.  Young deer often are very curious and will check out scents that are new to them.  They simply haven’t had as much time to have a negative association with a scent.  However, mature deer are often more cautious.

It’s fun to try new scents and watch how deer respond to them.  However, there’s always a chance mature deer will respond negatively and avoid the area that day.  This is true with any technique such as calls, decoys, etc.  When deer avoid an attractant, it usually occurs without the hunter ever knowing the deer was in the area.  Using scents to attract deer is certainly not a one size fits all approach!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Getting Involved

Question

Hello Grant,

I am an avid hunter.  I live in West Virginia.  There are not too many places here that try to grow big bucks.  I hunt almost every day on a small piece of land.   How would I go about getting involved with GrowingDeer.tv (or a similar group) as a guide?

Eli

Eli,

Wow, I wish I could hunt almost every day!  I think I want your job!!  My first job as a wildlife biologist was as a volunteer.  I applied through the Student Conservation Association and received a volunteer position with the Bureau of Land Management in Elko, Nevada as a wildlife technician.  I spent my summer identifying plants in areas where mule deer wintered and fighting fire.  It was a fabulous start to my career (30 years ago).

The same is true today.  For example I met Brad Mormann, one of my employees for the past five years, while giving a guest lecture at a local college.  I offered the students in that mammalogy class the opportunity to help in a prescribed fire the following Saturday.  Three students out of 30 showed up to volunteer.  Two worked very hard and both of them are gainfully employed in the wildlife field today (Brad currently works for me and Josh is employed by Bass Pro Shops).

There are usually opportunities to get where you want to go, but the route may not be direct.  Brad volunteered simply to gain some experience.  He’s now a published deer biologist that works on projects in several states assisting land owners and hunters with their deer and habitat management programs.  Find an opportunity to start in the wildlife field, even if it’s a volunteer position, and work hard.  I’m always amazed at what can be accomplished with hard work and determination!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Where Did the Big Bucks Go?

Question

Hi Dr. Grant,

Where did the big bucks go?  On our farm, we’re seeing plenty of does and bucks that are 1.5 to 2.5, but the 3 older bucks that we’ve been watching have fallen into a hole.  No pictures or actual sightings the very time I think we should be seeing them.  I know they are alive, but where in the world are they?  I can’t even get a picture of them at night.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

That’s a great question!  We have bucks that do that also.  One buck in particular at The Proving Grounds hits the road just after velvet shedding each fall.  Again this fall, for the 3rd year in a row, one of our oldest bucks disappeared after feeding on my soybeans all summer long.  As in past years, he will probably become a resident again in the spring and summer.  This can be a challenging situation.

GPS collared bucks tell us that bucks often have a slight shift or even an entire shift between their summer and winter ranges.  We’re not sure why it happens but every buck has its own personality and movement patterns.

Another thing to consider is that this time of year bucks can get tied up with estrus does for a day or two cutting down on their movements.  This is especially true when a deer herd is largely skewed toward does.  With few bucks and many does to breed, a buck doesn’t have to move far to find another hot doe.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Should I Establish Food or Cover?

Question

Grant,

I have a 120 acre property with a bedding area in the middle and food sources on the southern end of the bedding area.  I have a 15 acre ag field that is located on the NW end of my land that I’m trying to figure out what to do with.  It is currently open land and abuts my neighbor’s property.  He is a hunter and his property has mature oaks.  I can’t decide if I should plant a small perimeter of screen like pines on the boundary and then plant the rest in corn, hunting the interior corner of my property with mowed strips, or if I should convert the entire part into bedding with a small clover or wheat plot on the interior corner?  The interior corners would allow me access without spooking any deer.

I feel like if I make it bedding then the deer will go to the neighbors property, especially during good acorn years.  If I plant corn will deer transition through his woods giving him first crack before they enter the corn?

Will the deer bed in the corn if I leave the outside 10 acres of it standing and then mow the interior 5 acres to hunt (or even plant a couple small 1 acre green plots within the corn)?

I’m treading cautiously since ag land is hard to remake (clear) and I don’t want to convert it to timber until I know for sure what I should do.

Most of the properties around me are all cover with not many crops being planted.

Thanks for your time,

Garry

Garry,

It sounds like you have been working hard to develop a solid plan.  As you’ve said it’s far easier to make the correct management decisions the first time than to have to redo them.

From what I know, I recommend planting the outer seven or eight acres in a mix of tall warm season grasses like switchgrass and big bluestem.  This will provide deer cover plus allow them to bed near the edge of the property and come toward its interior to forage.  The interior acreage can then be planted in corn/soybean rotation.  Again, leave the forage standing if possible.  I frequently create habitat plans for clients that include establishing cover near their property boundaries and food on the interior.  When quality food, cover, and water are close in proximity deer tend to remain in the area.

When creating these habitat features, remember to design stand locations and an approach or two for each stand that allows the hunter to enter the stand without being detected by deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cool Season Food Plots

Question

Grant,

My family owns 110 acres in east central IL, Iroquois county.  We are totally surrounded by agricultural fields and CRP that is owned by a neighbor.  We would like to plant a couple of small food plots on our land but have limited area to do so.  I would say 95% of our land is what we would call bottom ground.  The remaining five percent has some small oaks growing on it.  Is there something that can be planted late season in the bottom ground to help hold deer on our property?  We have seen a few turkeys on our property too, but this is the first season in 16 years that we have.

Thank you for any information you may have.

Matt

Matt,

For small, cool season forage crops I rely heavily on winter wheat and brassicas.  Winter wheat is a hardy cool season small grain that performs well if fertilized/limed properly.  Brassicas are good as they typically are not foraged upon until after a hard frost allowing them to grow a bunch of tonnage before the deer herd starts to eat them.  Both require being planted at least 45-50 days before the first average frost date.  Rye grain (absolutely not rye grass) is also an option as it can be planted slightly later because it is an excellent nitrogen scavenger and can grow during temperatures 12 degrees cooler than winter wheat.

Lastly, depending on the actual food plot size Eagle Seed’s forage soybeans are my first bet. I like them because they produce forage all summer while producing tons of grain forage (often tons more than typical cool season forage crops). However, their grain production depends largely on how heavily they are hit by the deer throughout the summer. If there are gads of deer in the area, a small plot of soybeans might get over browsed unless protected by a fence (I use the Hot Zone Deer Exclosure System). I’d plant Eagle Seed forage soybeans the first year and see what happens. The worst case scenario is that the beans will be totally consumed, but the plot will be prepared for the cool season planting!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Determining the Size of a Food Plot

Question

Grant,

Hello, my friend has land here in Maine in the mid-coast area.  We have been talking about putting in a food plot.  Can we do a productive plot on five or ten acres or should we go bigger?

Thanks for the time.

Brent

Brent,

The size of a food plot largely depends on your goals.  Do you want just an attraction food plot or a feeding plot?  Attraction food plots are meant only to attract deer during the hunting season.  They require limited acreage because the forage only needs to be available for a short time.

Feeding food plots usually are larger because deer are eating on them all year round.  With a single deer eating over 2,000 lbs of dry forage a year, several acres are required to keep the table set for the herd.

In areas where cover is prevalent and high quality forage is in short supply more acres will be required.  Another huge factor is the number of deer whose home range overlaps the food plot location.  Remember that deer usually don’t leave their home range to find food.  In fact, they are very fearful of leaving their home range as they don’t know the thermals, wind currents, etc.  A very general rule of thumb is to prepare an acre of food plot for every five to seven deer that will be feeding in that area.  If you wish the herd to express its full potential then err on the side of providing more forage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Controlling Ragweed in a Food Plot

Question

Dear Dr. Grant Woods,

I have planted a half acre of clover and chicory for an inside corner food plot.  You said that ragweed can be nutritious but it has taken over the food plot.  Is it worth trying to get rid of the ragweed or should I just let it grow?  Is there anything that will kill the ragweed and not the clover and chicory?  I am afraid the ragweed will compete against the clover and chicory and not let it grow like it should.  I know in one of your episodes you talked about Arrow herbicides and I didn’t know if something like that would work.

I love the videos and the information on GrowingDeer.tv.  I am going into my second year of college and majoring in wildlife biology.  I love the outdoors and learning about plants and animal behaviors.  I hope one day to become a wildlife biologist and help manage the quality of our wildlife.

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for the positive comments!  Ragweed can be a major competitor in any food plot if is not removed early.  In clover and chicory plots ragweed is maintained best by periodically mowing it and other broadleaf plants growing in the plot.  In most situations, simply keeping broadleaf plants from going to seed and/or shading out the clover and chicory helps to keep their presence at bay.

Once ragweed is well established it can be a major problem.  I am unaware of an herbicide that controls it without harming clover and chicory.  Herbicides like Arrow control grasses and Pursuit controls non-legumes.  If ragweed has taken the plot over it is probably most cost effective to start the plot over.  Start by killing the plot in the spring with a broad spectrum herbicide (glyphosate) and periodically apply again throughout the summer.  Then broadcast seed throughout the plot just before/during a heavy rain in late summer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Deer Use the Wind

Question

Dr. Woods,

I’m curious about wind direction and how deer use it.  Bucks prefer to quarter the wind, right?  Do does prefer the same setup?  Do deer deviate much from this (walking into or quartering the primary wind direction)?

If you were hunting a transitional zone between a feeding area and bedding area with a primary wind direction coming out of the north (blowing south), with the feeding area north of the transition area and the bedding area south of it, deer would probably be likely to move from the bedding area through the transition area (and hopefully present a shot) to the feeding area in the afternoon.

What about in the morning?  I know deer move back to bedding areas in the morning.  If the wind is still coming from the north and blowing south, the wind won’t alert deer since you’d be downwind of them.  However, the deer won’t have the wind in their nose or quartering to them (unless they were moving backwards).  So, would this transitional area still be a good place to see a deer, or would the deer simply move to a bedding area that is further north of the feeding area so that they can utilize the wind to their advantage?

I’m sure I’m over complicating this, but I’m just trying to learn how deer really use the wind.  Even in my area the wind changes daily, but sometimes I notice the same deer move from the same bedding area to the same feeding area so I know they are not always using the wind to their advantage.  However, this is mostly does and not bucks.

Thanks!

Eric

Eric,

I have and still do spend hours pondering how deer use the wind!  I make no claims that I’ve figured that out yet.  In general, deer like to move with the wind in their advantage.  However, what is “in their advantage?”  Is it in front of them so they can detect threats before they approach an area or is it when the wind is behind them and they can detect threats that might approach from the rear?

Deer obviously move in all directions in relation to the wind.  If the wind remains out of the north for a week, they don’t end up traveling miles and miles north simply because they wanted to keep the wind in their face.  I think deer are much more sensitive to thermals and minor wind currents than most hunters realize.  Hunters, me included, seem to get hung up on the general wind direction.  I believe deer avoid two and four legged predators by paying attention to thermals (air moving up or down in elevation because of temperature gradients).  These thermals can occur due to slope, shade/sunlight patterns, etc.

I use several tools including unscented talcum powder, bubbles, etc., to detect thermal patterns when selecting stand sites.  To complicate this process more, thermal patterns often change throughout the day as the temperature changes.

Working to reduce your scent by clothing, equipment, good hygiene and understanding localized thermals are key factors in observing and harvesting mature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Piebald Deer

Question

I have a couple questions that I want to ask.

I have a Pinto/Piebald buck on our farm.  He’s a 7 point and looks to be 2 1/2 or maybe just 1 1/2.  Do they have bad genetics and need to be taken out of the herd?

Is it possible that mature does seek out the dominant bucks instead of the bucks seeking them out?  I had a hunt and saw this type of behavior.  Does were going to where he was.  Also, it seemed like they were trying to protect him.  I have also shot big bucks and had does standing around where a buck fell, even after running them off they would come back later.

Thanks,

Chad

Chad,

Piebald deer are not usually as fit as other deer, genetically speaking.  However, because it is a recessive trait it will not dominate a herd.  I think they are fun to observe and opt not to harvest them unless they are mature.  That’s just a personal choice.

A research project with a very large sample size conducted on a herd with plenty of mature bucks clearly showed that no buck bred significantly more does that any other buck of breeding age.  This research is supported by the knowledge that in herds with fairly balanced adult sex ratios, most does become receptive to breeding about the same time and only remain receptive for 1-2 days.  Therefore, it would be very unlikely for one buck to do most of the breeding.  Wild, free-ranging populations of whitetails have an extremely diverse genetic make-up.  This is because most adults, both male and female, participate in the breeding.  The fact that most deer participate in the reproductive cycle of a deer herd ensures the genetic makeup is extremely diverse and healthy!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Scent Control

Question

Thanks for providing this question opportunity.  Here in Alabama, the rut doesn’t kick in until January.  That means (for us) our bow season is spent not just “pre-rut”, but basically in the deer’s summer behavior mode.  In your videos it doesn’t look like your group pays any special attention to individual scent control beyond a very healthy respect for wind and stand elevation.  I haven’t seen any special scent control clothing, canceling or masking sprays, and I’m not seeing any attractants either.  Other than the possible lack of a sponsor for these items, what is your expert opinion on the issue of scent management?

Again many thanks, great site, excellent science based information!!

Dan

Dan,

Thanks for the kind words!!  I believe one of the most important tactics a hunter can adopt for harvesting mature bucks on a consistent basis is to eliminate as much of their scent while approaching and in the stand.

I’m a kidney transplant patient so I take several steroids daily to remain healthy.  Because of this, my body emits more odor than “healthy” hunters.  In addition, I’m usually hunting with a cameraman and gads of camera equipment.  Therefore, I take scent control very seriously!  My regime is simple.  I wash my clothes in an inexpensive washing machine that I keep in my garage.  I only wash hunting clothes in that machine – period!  I use a detergent made for hunters.  I then hang my clothes outside in the sun because sunshine is a great disinfectant.  When they are dry, I treat them with a scent elimination product and hang them in an abandoned barn that has both ends open so there is usually a breeze passing through.  One of our camera guys doesn’t have access to an abandoned barn, so he hangs his clothes out to dry and then stores them in sterilized containers.

Our entire team takes their clothes to the field and we change outside the truck, before we approach our stand.  Yes, it’s cold and miserable at times.  We always wear rubber boots and treat them with a scent elimination spray before and after each hunt.  These boots are never used except for hunting.

Yet we still get busted sometimes if the deer is dead downwind.  However, we also film and harvest deer that are dead downwind and have crossed our trail multiple times while approaching the stand.  In fact, two mature bucks I harvested recently (GDTV 48 & GDTV 50) were either dead downwind or crossed where I approached my stand numerous times.

I believe our efforts certainly have reduced the number of mature bucks that are alerted by our presence.  I believe always hunting with the wind in your favor and eliminating as much scent as possible are two of the most important activities that can be done to harvest mature bucks on a consistent basis.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Developing Mineral Stations

Question

Grant,

I’m interested in starting a “mineral station.”  How, when, where, and with what do you recommend going about this?

Thank you,

Kasey

Kasey,

Providing mineral is a great way of ensuring the deer herd is acquiring all of the trace minerals required in body growth and antler development.  Mineral stations are also good for attracting deer.  Whenever possible I try to place them near another attraction such as a pond, food plot, etc.  This way I can maximize the number of deer utilizing them and capture some great images of each deer on my trail cameras.  Just remember that if you are placing them by a pond to place them below the pond so the high salt content doesn’t pollute the water.

Create the mineral stations as soon as possible so that deer can begin utilizing them.  Although they use them most during high moisture times of the year like spring, our trail camera images indicate deer are physically licking mineral throughout the year, even in the snow.

The mineral I use is Trophy Rock.  Trophy Rock is different from the average trace mineral block because it is a true rock mined from the earth out west.  With over 60 minerals present in each rock I am providing many of the minerals required in the herd’s daily growth.  I like to have at least one Trophy Rock per 160 acres.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Are Spikes a Good Thing?

Question

Grant,

I thoroughly enjoy your website.  The information that you provide has been very useful for our property.

I was bowhunting with my son (11) and daughter (17) in a ground blind overlooking a 40 acre food plot.  While we were hunting we had 15 young spikes come out on the food plot and feed close by us.  Is this a good thing?  I kept telling my son that in 3-4 years that we would have a lot of shooter bucks and that we need to be patient and enjoy watching the deer.

Thanks for all of your help.

Lawrence

Lawrence,

Thanks for the kind words!  You are correct!  Young bucks, if allowed to mature, turn into big bucks!  The old adage “once a spike, always a spike” is absolutely not true.  If those yearling bucks are allowed to mature and have access to good quality forage, they will produce much larger antlers as they mature.  Some of them will have larger antlers than others, just like some humans are taller than others.  All critters have slightly different genetic potential.  However, environmental factors impact how much of that potential can be expressed.  If a buck is harvested as a yearling, it certainly will not express much of its antler growth potential.

Growing (and passing) Deer together,

Grant

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Trail Camera Images and Maps

Question

This is actually a request in the form of a question.  Can you please continue in the future to show “What We Know” with trail camera images and trails layered over topo maps?  That was extremely insightful information and really helped me as a viewer to understand how and why you set up on this buck where you did.  Excellent stuff, I wish everyone did this!

Thank you and God bless.

Bobby

Bobby,

Thanks for the kind words!  Yes, we plan to continue using trail camera images, maps, and other tools to aid in our goal of sharing useful information.  In fact, I just harvested one of the hit list bucks from The Proving Grounds and that episode (GDTV 50) used maps and trail camera images to illustrate my strategy.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Viral Wart?

Question

I just took a 4 point by bow that had a growth hanging under his chin.  I could see the growth swinging under his chin like a ball on a string as he made his way to my stand.  The growth is about twice the size of a golf ball and hard.  It is hanging from a small section of stretched skin.  He was definitely too young to be taken, but due to the deformity I took the shot.  I was concerned with it being infectious to our other deer.  After researching this I believe it is a viral wart and is infectious to other deer but not humans.  The meat is reportedly still okay unless infection has set in.  Should these deer be harvested to protect the herd, is the meat safe and is there any worry of human infection?

Bill

 

Bill,

That is an odd growth shown in the picture!  I can’t positively determine what the cause of the growth was.  However, such oddities do occur in deer (and other species of wildlife).  Usually, unless there is a secondary infection such growths do not contaminant the meat that would normally be consumed by humans.  If you have any doubts, most states allow their game wardens to issue a replacement tag if requested by the hunter.  I wouldn’t worry about the growth causing damage to other deer, unless the deer was in captivity and in constant contact with other deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How big is a buck’s home range?

Question

Dr. Woods,

Recently I saw your interview with Midwest Whitetail about a buck’s home range.  You commented that deer are just like people and have different personalities and some will move farther than others.  I’m curious about the studies that back this up, did they take place on locations where food plots, feeders and manmade water sources were present?  Were any of these studies done on areas such as Mark Twain National Forest or were they on private land without land assistance?

I hunt on 340 acres in the southern portion of Christian County, Missouri on land that is 80% timber.  The other 20% of the land is used for cattle and horses so food plots are not an option at this time.  The neighbors do not have food plots either.  We do have several White Oaks, Red Oaks, Black Oaks and other acorn producing trees that typically yield a good crop (however, the White Oaks did not produce a crop this year).  Our water sources are good as well, even in the driest times some sort of water supply is available (ponds and small creeks).

How do you think this situation affects a buck’s home range?

I really do enjoy your personality and realism.  I enjoy the information you share in your web tv shows, podcasts, interviews in Wild Idea Archery, and seminars.  I wish I knew 1% of what you know about whitetails, predators and deer management.  I think The Proving Grounds is an absolute dream.  Is that really obtainable for the average Joe like myself?  There is no way I could ever replicate what you have been able to accomplish.  There is a heavy need out there to have a show that represents the majority of hunters and the situations they face.  So many of us get a few weekends off a year and hunt non-managed private land or heavily timbered public land.  Yet the only shows out there show well managed properties with $15k Bad Boy Buggies, multiple treestands to choose from and big buck after big buck.

Dr. Woods, I appreciate your time and any advice you can give.

Chris

Chris,

Thanks for the kind words!

Studies I quote are from many, many locations.  Predation and behavior studies will apply to a much broader portion of the whitetail’s range.  Even in Christian County, the habitat changes from typical Ozark forest to areas with some ag or lush landscape plants (urban areas).  However, deer tend to behave the same throughout the county.  Average antler size, body weight, or fawn production for each age class can vary significantly by habitat type.

I grew up hunting Mark Twain National Forest in Barry and Taney County, Missouri (we may have hunted some of the same areas).  Studies throughout the whitetails’ range consistently show that the closer quality food, cover, and shelter are located, the smaller the average size of a deer’s home range will be.  So, even if there’s plenty of water, if quality food and/or cover are limited the average home range size of deer in that area will be larger compared to areas where these necessary habitat components are plentiful in close proximity.  Remember that the average deer range may not apply to any individual deer, just like the average height of a human may not apply to many actual humans.

Deer herds that live in areas where acorns are the primary food source during the winter often present tough hunting challenges.  When there are lots of acorns, deer don’t need to move far so it’s tough for hunters to approach the feeding/bedding area without alerting deer.  When the acorns are scarce, it’s tough to pattern deer as they cover large areas searching for food.

Hunters that harvest mature bucks consistently from acorn driven herds are some of the best hunters I know.  They absolutely shine when they hunt in areas with fragmented habitat and easily identifiable feeding and bedding areas.

One last thought…  It’s relatively easy to use a fence to exclude livestock but allow deer to forage.  This is a great tool for establishing food plots in areas where livestock are grazing.  If there is limited quality food in an area, it’s very easy to pattern deer unless they are alerted to the presence of hunters.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Triggers the Rut?

Question

Grant,

During the 80s and 90s, the accepted fact was that the “hunter’s moon” (perhaps 7 days after the 2nd full moon after the autumnal equinox) triggered the rut.  Most studies in the past decade, based on radio-collared deer, have stated that this is just myth and is absolutely not supported by true science-based studies.

That said, some renowned deer experts — Charles Alsheimer in particular — (see the last edition of Deer & Deer Hunting) are adamant that moon phase has a significant impact on the timing of the rut.  Are you willing to weigh in on this with a strong opinion?

Barry

Barry,

My data (gads and gads of deer fetuses backdated to the date of conception during the past 20 years) match the observations of many other scientists.  The timing of deer conception dates are not triggered by any phase of the moon.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Targeting the Biggest Buck

Question

Hey Grant,

I live in Ozark County, Missouri.  I was wondering if you had any tips to get the biggest deer out of my area.

Edward

Edward,

Targeting the largest buck in any area is a very difficult task.  However, the Ozarks tend to be a bit tougher to hunt than areas that have less cover, more crops, and flatter topography.

With that said, bucks must be allowed to mature and have ample good quality food to express their antler growth potential.  These two factors eliminate much of Ozark County.  There will be some farms with limited hunting pressure, so bucks can reach maturity, that have some alfalfa or possibly some row crops.  If you can locate that combination in Ozark County, there’s a good chance you’ve located where the largest bucks in Ozark County live!

Growing (and hunting) deer together,

Grant

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Using a Climbing Tree Stand in Hardwoods

Question

Grant,

I was just wondering, what would be the best height and location for hunting hardwoods with a climber?  I have been hunting this certain area for a couple weeks now with no luck, any suggestions?

Kevin

Kevin,

I like to be up at least 18 feet because climbers require the cover present below the stand level be clipped and removed.  I use climbers at times when scouting/hunting new areas and I wish to be able to climb a stand quickly.  To limit disturbance, I usually climb at the first spot I find high quality sign and a tree is present and is located with the wind in my favor.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using a No-Till Drill in Good Soil

Question

Dr. Woods,

Through watching your videos and reading your blogs it is obvious that you encourage using a no-till drill.  I live in central Illinois where the soil is much better than at The Proving Grounds and this practice is not as widely used here. Do you still recommend the no-till planter when planting beans in a plot that was corn the previous year?

Andrew

Andrew,

No-till drills are a great tool for planting soybeans.  They minimize soil compaction and the associated costs of several trips across the plot with tillage implements.  They are really good at maximizing soil moisture retention as disking causes the evaporation of soil moisture.  I have clients in west-central Illinois and other production ag areas that use a no-till drill to plant soybeans and they have great results.

A corn/soybean rotation is a great food plot program and a no-till drill can be used to plant both.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Minimizing Disturbance

Question

Hello Grant,

My name is Boyd and I am hunting in Caton, New York.  I hunt on a 16 acre lot that is just loaded with white oaks.  I have two treestands located on the property; one at the bottom of the hill in what I think is a funnel to a bedding area and the other at the top of the hill in an open wooded area.  Both areas where the stands are located are a mess with rubs and scrapes with 30 of each at both locations.  I have got cameras at both locations and they both have great pictures.  I have gotten over 4,000 pictures in two months, some really nice bucks but just the little ones are frequent.  Opening day I took a mature doe for the freezer because my 6 year old son was with me.  Well, at the beginning of the season I was seeing an average of 20 to 30 deer in a day.  Now we are into week 3 and I see 1 to 3 at most.  I know that we are getting closer to the rut and I was wondering if this would affect what I was seeing.  I know the deer are in there.  I hunt on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and  Sundays because I work and am in school full-time.  I just don’t understand with the amount of rubs and scrapes why I am not seeing many deer.  It also seems like the does have stopped frequenting as much.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Boyd

Boyd,

I’ve worked a lot in upstate New York.  I have several friends in the Potsdam area!! Congratulations on harvesting a doe!!  It is important to remember that deer are a prey species and they generally consider humans predators.  The more a deer herd is alerted to a major predator (like us) in their home range, the less likely they are to continue using that portion of their home range, at least during daylight hours.

I try to limit my disturbance, especially when hunting mature bucks.  For this reason I practice intense scent control.  For example, I frequently wash my hunting clothes in a washer that has never had normal family laundry detergent used in it.  You can also only use scent free soap for a few loads in the family washing machine if that is more convenient.  I hang my hunting clothes outside to dry.  Sunshine and fresh air are great deodorizers.  I keep a pair of rubber boots for hunting and only put them on (and my hunting clothes) once I’m at my hunting site, ready to walk to my stand.  Even with these efforts, I try to never hunt a location when the wind is not in my favor for approaching and hunting the stand.

Mature bucks are rarely tolerant of a major predator intruding in their core area.  If your intent is to harvest a mature buck, then you can increase the odds substantially by limiting the chances of being detected by their nose.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Aging on the Hoof

Question

Grant,

Congrats on your Kansas buck!  What did you age him at by tooth wear?

The last 5 bucks I have harvested in eastern Kansas looked by typical body aging characteristics that I see in QDMA manuals to be 3.5 to 4.5 years old.  The cementum annuli analysis that I had done has come back as 5.5 and 6.5.  Is this something that is normal to my particular area?  These bucks were shot from late September to early December and weighed between 150 and 180 lbs. dressed out.

Thanks and keep up the good work.

Nick

Nick,

Thanks for the positive comments.  I really had a great time on the Kansas hunt (GDTV 48).  I estimated the age of the buck that I harvested to be 4.5 years old.  I didn’t have a cementum annuli analysis performed.

Aging on the hoof is a tremendous management tool for selecting bucks for harvest.  Body characteristics can fluctuate based on location and the time of the year a buck is being aged.  The rut can take a heavy toll on a buck’s mass and overall physical appearance with some bucks losing over 20% of their pre-rut body mass.  Aging can also be slightly different when looking at a buck from the ground or from a treestand.  Depending on how steep the angle is from a treestand it is often times hard to see how long a buck’s legs are compared to the rest of his body, if the neck is fully developed, and if there is any loose skin under the jaw, etc.

One of the best methods to hone your skills is to continually take notes on a harvested buck’s physical characteristics on the hoof and compare them to that of cementum annuli age results.  From this information you can learn your site-specific buck age characteristics.  With that said, it is usually always more rewarding to low ball a buck’s age than to over age it.  Like a harvested buck’s antlers that grow as you approach them, finding out later that you harvested an older buck just adds icing to the cake.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Destination vs. Hunting Food Plots

Question

Dr. Woods,

I hunted over my food plots for the first time yesterday on my 100 acres and definitely reaped the rewards.  I ended up planting 25 acres in plots (20 acres of corn and 5 acres of green fields) and am slowly transitioning my open land to more cover.  I didn’t do so all at once in case my deer needed more food than cover, especially since I’m surrounded by cover and no food.

Between my dad and I we saw 30 deer!  Only two were bucks, so we definitely have some doe management to take care of.  When hunting over food plots in the afternoon I spooked the deer when getting out of the stand — which I knew I would.  My dad didn’t.  I was located more on our destination (3 acre) food plot and he was hunting over a smaller 1/4 acre food plot where the deer seemed to move through more quickly.  Do you use destination plots on your farm to encourage deer movement to bigger fields and do you feel deer target these fields in the evening (I have read deer feel safer in these larger fields as opposed to smaller ones)?

Since I started with a lot of open land and I’m transitioning my food plots to more cover, namely transition areas where I can hunt and not get busted, what do you recommend planting? I’ve considered NWSGs but wasn’t sure if that would allow me to shoot through it to harvest deer.  The other thoughts I had were thick NWSG or early successional cover and putting shooting lanes through it.

Do you ever hunt over these larger plots?  They’re hard not to hunt over as I saw about 20 deer yesterday, including a couple decent bucks. I guess the unknown is if they would be there later this week after I spooked them getting out of the stand.

Thanks!

Eric

Eric,

I do plant larger destination food plots on my property.  My goal for these food plots is to provide undisturbed foraging opportunities for the deer herd throughout the year.  I rarely, if ever, hunt them because I always want the herd moving toward them and consuming their nutrients.  As you witnessed during your first hunt on the destination food plot it is difficult to enter/leave the stand without disturbing deer.  The more times a deer is disturbed the less likely it is to move in daylight hours in that location.

I like to spend the majority of my hunting time in transition zones between bedding and feeding areas and over small attractant food plots, like the one your father was hunting.  This way if I happen to disturb a deer it can take a different path to get to the destination food plot during daylight hours.  I then just have to study the most recent information (M.R.I.) to determine its new path.

Native warm season grass provides great cover.  If a variety of native grasses are included in the planting and switchgrass makes up 20% or less of the seed, shooting into it from an elevated stand should not be difficult.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Optimum Treestand Height

Question

Dear Grant,

How do you determine the height at which you place your treestands?  Is it determined by the tree, topography or tradition?  If it is a regular height, what height might that be?

I have been a hunter for 25 years but I only recently took up bow hunting and find that I am now using treestands all the time.  Determining the optimum height is a question that is always in the back of my mind.

Bryan (Ontario)

Bryan,

I have no set treestand height.  I have three primary goals when hanging a tree stand: safety, adequate cover, and scent minimization.  Factors that impact all three characteristics vary at each location.  At The Proving Grounds topography can definitely affect stand placement.  Depending on whether I’m shooting up or down a slope affects my stand height.  In some cases I’ve hung stands 30+ feet high to get myself sufficiently high to be above deer walking nearby on a ridge top or food plot.

I like to plan for a high probability that my shot placement will allow double lung penetration.  If the stand is too high in relationship to the location of the deer at the time of the shot, only one lung will most likely be hit.  Otherwise, in general I like to be as high as practical to reduce the chances of a deer detecting my scent or movement.  Remember, safety should always be the first consideration!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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RedHead Blackout Broadhead

Question

Grant,

What type of broadhead do you use?  I noticed it made a large entry hole.

Thanks,

Johnny

Johnny,

I’ve shot two mature bucks with a RedHead Blackout broadhead this year and had total penetration and an easy blood trail to follow!  This head groups exactly with my field points.  I’ve been totally pleased with this broadhead.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Lactation Data

Question

Grant,

Earlier you answered my question on collecting harvest data for our co-op, thank you.  I find it interesting that the professional biologist that we work with pushes quite heavily for a sample of fetuses for data.  You only require your hunters to give a yes or no on whether or not the doe is lactating until mid December.  Could lactation data be used as a substitute for collecting fetuses? The main reason we are collecting fetuses is to determine when the doe was bred.  Am I missing something on what can be learned by recording the lactating data?

Curt

Curt,

The biologist you work with may need conception date data based on fetuses for a specific reason.  I certainly believe that the more data collected the better!  However, I’ve found that many clubs don’t do a stellar job of collecting harvest data.  Not measuring a fetus correctly may cause a significant difference in estimating the conception date.  Such errors are common when multiple club members collect data.  If your club is collecting the data, it would be appropriate to ask the biologist how the data is being used.

Lactation data is not a substitute for fetal data.  Lactation data simply indicates that a doe has at least one nursing fawn.  It doesn’t give any indication how many fawns were nursing.  It doesn’t indicate if the fawn (or fawns) is still alive.  The percentage of yearling does that are lactating during the appropriate time of year is a good measure of the herd’s health.  If a significant number of yearling does produced fawns, the herd is not experiencing nutritional stress.  I’ve worked with herds in northern New York that were very unhealthy.  They still produced gads of twin fetuses, but usually produced less than 25 fawns per 100 adult does.  Fetal data from that herd would have been very misleading.  Lactation data and observation data matched closely and indicated that the does simply were under too much nutritional stress to carry fawns to full term or keep them alive until fall.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Can Deer See?

Question

Hi Grant,

I recently found your site and I’m really enjoying it.

Is there any way to know what a deer sees?  I hear a lot of opinions, but who’s right?  Is it true that they see the same thing a trail camera with an IR flash does?  I caught a shot of myself walking by one at night and my camo lights up like a big white snowman.  If that’s what they see, I wasted my money.

Thanks,

Mike

 

 

Mike,

Rather than risk losing something in translations, I’ll direct you to a post on the QDMA website “Can Deer See Blaze Orange?which summarizes the most up to date research.

Deer do see differently than the lens of an infra-red camera.  A camera could be programmed to see the same color spectrum as my fellow researchers believe a deer sees, but that’s not the case with the normal trail camera.  I’ve noticed the same “big white snowman” images before.  They are caused by some of the new camouflage being printed on material that is very reflective under those light conditions.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Tanning Deer Hides

Question

I just managed to harvest my first deer with a bow and as a momento I am going to try and tan the hide myself.  Do you have any tips or advice?

Thank you,

Peter

Peter,

Congratulations!  I love tanned deer hides.  In fact, I have every hide from deer my children kill tanned for them.  They use them as extra blankets, take them to school, etc.  However, I send mine to Moyle Mink & Tannery in Idaho.  I’ve never tanned a hide.  Sorry I can’t provide more information on this subject.

Growing (and enjoying) Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Struggles

Question

Dr. Woods,

 

I hunt an area very similar to The Proving Grounds.  It’s located between Saddlebrook and Branson.  I have tried several different food plots over the past couple of years and have really struggled getting them to grow.  I would appreciate any help you could offer.

Derek

 

Derek,

There are gads of reasons that food plots fail.  The best I can do with the information you provided is ask you some questions that might help you diagnose the problem.

  1. Have you been submitting a soil test and adding the appropriate amounts of lime and fertilizer?
  2. Are you using a utilization cage to monitor the amount of crop production versus crop consumption?
  3. Do you have a good weed control program?
  4. Are you planting at the appropriate conditions (soil temperature, moisture, etc,) for the specific crop you desire to grow?
  5. Are you planting enough acreage so deer don’t over browse the crop or are you protecting the crop with a Gallagher electric fence until it matures?

We’ve had great success with the combination of Antler Dirt and Eagle Seed beans.  Since we live so close, that combination should work very well at your place also.  You may wish to attend one of our Field Days and see firsthand the techniques, crops, fertilizer, etc., we use.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mature Bucks on Bait

Question

What if you have a lot of land and you don’t want to put out food plots?  I like to hunt in the thickest areas I can but when I bait it’s gone right away.  I only have about 1 to 2 deer in there and never any nice bucks.  I only like to take 3 to 3 1/2 year old deer and this is just not working.  What is your advice?

Brendon

Brendon,

You’re on the right track hunting in thick areas.  Mature bucks like to avoid areas where they feel threatened.  Usually there is less hunting pressure in thick areas than areas where hunters can gain access easily.  Often mature deer learn to avoid bait sites as they associate them with hunters.  You might try hunting some natural food sources or other areas of your property where the deer haven’t been pressured as much as around the bait sites.

Hunting mature bucks is always tough and you are wise to try different techniques.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Managing Food Plots

Question

Dr. Grant,

First, I will say we are relatively new to food-plotting.  This fall we planted roughly two acres in a fall mix that we purchased from a local seed company.  We put utilization cages in the plots and the results are as follows:

  • Outside the cage the forage is being grazed down to the ground.
  • Inside the cage growth is 4”-6” tall.

What are some good and affordable options to keep deer out of the plot so it has time to mature?

Thanks,

JP

JP,

I’ve been using Gallagher’s Food Plot Protector Fence to allow food plot crops to produce more forage and have been thrilled with the results.  Not only is this a great forage management tool, the fence is a great hunting tool!  Youth season opens soon at The Proving Grounds.  I just removed about 40’ of fence from two food plots that were protected by a Gallagher Fence at my place.  I’m very confident the deer will quickly learn to use these gaps and provide some great observation and hunting opportunities for my children.  In fact, I’ve already placed ground blinds so the hunters can see the gaps.

I will be reusing the fences next year to allow the forage to mature in some of my food plots and to create great hunting for my family.  I haven’t found a better or more cost effective solution to protecting young forage crops from being over-browsed or to create bottle necks for hunting than the Gallagher electric food plot fence system.

Growing Deer (and food plots) together,

Grant

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Food Plot Equipment

Question

Hello Dr. Woods,

I’m a total fan of your website and as a marketing professional I know you have it very well done.

My project consists of buying a piece of land in Quebec, Canada.  It is about 200 acres, to do my own Proving Grounds.

Because you and I are performance and quality oriented, what type of equipment are you using to work your food plot?  Mine will probably be much smaller then yours, but that will give me something to start with.

Thank you for your time!  And keep up the good work!

Jean-Philippe

Jean-Philippe,

Thanks for your kind words!  In most situations, I prefer tractors and tractor-sized implements over ATV and ATV-sized implements.  There are several good brands of tractors.  My primary requirement is that good service and parts are available locally for the tractor.  All tractors need periodic maintenance and local service is a huge asset.

Where practical, I prefer planting with a no-till drill.  This saves time and resources (both financial and environmental).  I use a no-till drill to plant small seeded crops like clover to large seeded crops like corn.  I’ve used gads of brands of no-till drills and the Great Plains is as good as or better than any I’ve used.

Another tool I frequently use is a boom sprayer.  I like a model with a tank that holds as much capacity as the tractor can safely handle.  Most herbicides require from 10 to 25 gallons of water per acre.  Sprayers with small tanks require the operator to spend more time filling the tank and transporting to and from the fields as they do actually spraying.

I’ll share one more tool I use frequently, a soil temperature thermometer.  This allows me to monitor the soil’s temperature at planting depth so I can plant each specific crop when conditions are best for rapid germination and growth.  This is critical to maximize crop production, especially during the spring.

Ok, one more.  It seems I always need a chainsaw.  I don’t think anyone realizes how many trees and large branches fall until they are responsible for keeping the roads open.  My local saw dealer sells and services Stilh and I’ve been very pleased with their saws, blowers, etc.

Growing Deer (and buying tools) together

Grant

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Eagle Seed Beans in the North States

Question

Grant,

As I walked out my front door this morning with calm winds and frost on the ground I wished that I was heading to the woods this morning rather than to school to teach, but I will do that tonight.  A cold front pushed through last night with 30-35 mile per hour winds which lead to a calm and clear morning, I am sure deer were/are on the move this morning.

What I am writing you about is that our property will be getting logged here over the next 8 months and my dad and I are thinking of changing our clover plot over to Eagle Seed beans.  The plot is going to be utilized as a landing zone for timber, which will mean the plot will have to be reworked when completed.  This particular plot rests between two ridges and is completely surrounded by timber; it is 175 yards long by 35 yards wide. After seeing how long the Eagle Seed beans stay green, we felt that we could get the best of both worlds if we switched from clover to beans, with green forage for an extended period of time and then a great late season food source.  What are your thoughts on this?

Also, we currently have four brassica/turnip plots, and I have read that it is not good to keep planting brassica plots year after year as a rotation is needed.  Is this true?  We apply fertilizer year after year, and a couple of our plots are better than they ever have been, but I am attributing a lot of that to the sufficient amount of moisture that we had in August and September.

Hitting the woods tonight to try and score on one of our hit list bucks.  The time is getting close, I feel like a 1.5 year old buck right now biting at the bit!

Have a great day and thanks for all the information on GrowingDeer.tv.  I have even used a couple of episodes in my classroom.  What a great resource!

Ryan

Ryan,

Thanks for the kind words!  Eagle Seed forage soybeans are a great food plot crop.  When managed correctly, such as planting enough acreage or using a Gallagher Food Plot Protector Fence, Eagle Seed forage beans certainly provide high quality food during both the warm and cool seasons.  Managing these beans as a two season crop is about as inexpensive as possible for high quality food production.  The fact that they remain green so late during the year means they provide an outstanding attraction during the early deer seasons in most states.  Deer are still browsing the forage of the Eagle Seed beans at my place this fall!

The Eagle Seed Northern Blend of Wildlife Managers Mix is perfect for hunters at your latitude (Wisconsin, Minnesota, etc.).  Be sure to adequately address the soil compaction that always occurs on active logging decks.  Compacted soil will greatly reduce the crop’s production potential.

Crop rotation is a great tool to avoid the reduction of specific trace minerals and the buildup of crop specific pests.  The number of years the same crop can be grown at the same site without detrimental affects is dependent on several variables such as weather, soil type, crop, etc.

Growing Deer (and crops) together,

Grant

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Failed Food Plots

Question

Grant,

We have been enjoying your GrowingDeer.tv productions, keep up the great work.  We have an area on our property (same farm you were on with my Dad and me years ago) that we have not been successful in growing food plots on the last couple of years.  We did soil samples (and they were good), used the best food plot practices that we know (round up, fertilizer, seed bed prep, etc.) and we still cannot get the food plot to grow anything other than weeds.  Can you help us in any way?

Conway

Conway,

Good to hear from you!  Hmmm.  If weeds are growing and the soil test results are normal, there’s probably nothing wrong with the soil.  I can’t diagnose the problem with certainty based on the information provided.  I can ask some questions that might help you diagnose the problem.  Are you using utilization cages to monitor the crop’s growth where deer aren’t allowed to browse?  Is it possible the crops are being consumed by deer and being killed by over browsing?  Are the same crops being planted in other plots nearby and if so, are they growing?  Have you experienced the same response from both warm and cool season crops?

Growing Deer (and hopefully crops) together,

Grant

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Home Range Size

Question

Hey Dr. Woods,

I have read that a buck’s home range is about 1 mile and a doe’s is about a quarter mile.  I have also read that bucks will travel up to 5 miles in search of hot does during the rut.  How much of this is true?  Do bucks travel that far out of their known area?

Thanks again!

Brent

Brent,

Like humans, deer exhibit much individuality, especially in their home range size.  In general the home range size of both bucks and does are smaller in areas of better habitat.  Good quality habitat is composed of quality food, cover, and water in close proximity.  The closer the proximity of these three habitat components, the less deer are required to move to meet their daily requirements.

Some, but not all bucks and does take sojourns from their home range, especially  during the rut.  Researchers can track the movements of individual deer using GPS collars.  However, we usually don’t have all the deer in the herd collared, so we don’t know if the buck or doe is traveling with another deer during these sojourns.

There are lots of “average home range sizes” published for deer.  However, that’s like saying the average adult male is 5’8” tall.  That’s the average but the vast majority of adult males are either taller or shorter than 5’8”.  The same is true for the average deer home range size.  The “average” is a nice number, but probably is applicable to only a small percentage of deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Corn: Cut or Leave Standing?

Question

Dr. Woods,

I planted 20 acres of corn this year on my 100 acre farm.  I have always read about people not having great success when hunting adjacent to farms that did not have corn cut yet, so I figured that it must be good to have a lot of corn on one’s property.

My assumption was right.  So far I’ve gotten more bucks on camera than I’ve ever seen.  These pictures are mostly near green plots (I have 5 acres of clover, WW, WR, AWPs, and brassicas planted in different plots) since they are the only place I can get photos of deer in the open.  I’m not sure if the corn contributed to the amount of photos, but I suspect the corn is a good thing.

I’ve walked around my farm on three occasions and have jumped three different deer bedded in the corn after getting 5 feet from them.  It is legal here to bait deer and cut corn down for deer (mow it).  How do you recommend I hunt the corn?  Muzzleloader season starts soon, when the rut is beginning to kick in, and I’m wondering how to use the corn to my advantage.  I presume if I cut all the corn down they would use it at night since they wouldn’t have any cover.  Alternatively, I could leave it standing and hope deer use the green fields or that bucks are chasing through the corn and green fields.  Or should I cut strips from my stands as the season progresses?

I remember watching a video where you said you tend to leave yours standing.  I’ve noticed that the deer haven’t really “learned” how to eat the corn off the stalk, but can consume ears of knocked down stalks over night.

Eric

Eric,

I agree with your observations that deer readily use corn.  They do tend to prefer it shelled or at least mowed versus standing.  However, so do turkeys, crows, mice, squirrels, etc.  If you believe you don’t have enough corn to feed all of the critters until spring green-up, it might fit your objective to leave all or most of it standing.  I think mowing corn to create feeding and/or shooting lanes is a great tool.  I enjoy using narrow stalking lanes in corn (about ATV wide).  I simply sneak through the field with the wind in my face.  This technique requires much patience and skill as the hunter must spot the deer before the deer detects the hunter.  This usually means moving extremely slow.

If you prefer to hunt with a gun and believe you have plenty of corn to last until spring green-up, then mowing the entire field may be a good option.

Deer will certainly learn to consume ears on standing corn.  Deer tend to make a bunch of noise while feeding on standing corn, which can be a huge benefit to the hunter.  It allows the hunter to locate deer and limits the ability of deer to hear the hunter approaching.  My most common mistake when hunting deer in standing corn is that I get tunnel vision.  I locate a deer I wish to harvest and begin stalking toward it.  I sometimes forget to constantly monitor other deer and subsequently get busted by them while approaching the deer I’m wishing to harvest.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mineral Sources

Question

I would like to know a mineral block or mineral that I could use year after year. I have bought several different ones and some the deer won’t even touch.

Keith

Keith,

I use Trophy Rock and am very pleased with the amount of use it receives year round.  It has 60+ trace minerals!  In fact, it’s the first source of mineral I’ve tried that deer used constantly throughout the winter.  I have a Trophy Rock out about every 100 acres at The Proving Grounds and last winter it was easy to monitor the use as deer keep the snow tramped near around them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shoot or Don’t Shoot

Question

Hi Dr. Grant,

First off, I hope you are doing well and having a good hunting season.

My question is relevant to most hunting places.  I have about 3 bucks on my 250 acre farm that are 3.5 to 4.5 years old.  All of these deer would be shot on neighboring properties without the hunter blinking an eye. Should I let them go or shoot them if I get the chance?  I’ve passed up a couple of bucks that were actually bigger than anything I’ve ever killed, so it wouldn’t be the first time. What would you do?  Where is the point between when you let him go no matter what and when you’re going to let him have it?  I’ve tried the 4.5 year old point the last couple of years, but this is the first year they are really starting to grow.  I hate to shoot them, because you know he could be something really special over the next couple years.  I’m in between a rock and a hard spot.

Thanks always and God bless,

Kevin

Kevin,

I don’t believe there is a definitive or singular answer to your question.  It really depends on your deer management and harvest goals and your patience level.  The better the habitat on your property compared to the neighboring properties, the more time the deer in your neighborhood will spend on your property.  It’s critical that you have better quality cover than what’s available on the neighboring properties.  Deer will spend most of the daylight hours, when they are the most vulnerable to being harvested by hunters, in cover.  It would be best to make this source of cover a sanctuary so mature bucks are very conditioned to using that area as their bedding/escape area.  Hunting the edges of the sanctuary is okay as long as the sanctuary is large enough that your scent doesn’t alarm deer throughout the sanctuary.  Remember that your scent is probably almost as disturbing as your physical presence to deer.

It would also be best if you had as good (and hopefully better) quality food for deer during the hunting season on your property than the neighboring properties.  I’m always amazed at how small the range of mature bucks can be in areas with high quality habitat.

It never hurts to work with your neighbors.  Take time to learn their deer harvest objectives.  If they are drastically different than yours, gently work to educate them by sharing sources of good information.  They may or may not change, but there is a good chance you will develop a better relationship that over time will benefit both parties.

Finally, my first rule of deer management is that dead deer don’t grow.  There’s always a chance (sometimes it’s slim) that bucks you pass will survive and grow a year older.  If your deer harvest objective is to harvest bucks at least 4 years old or older, then be prepared to pass lots of three year olds.  I’m okay with hunters harvesting any age class of bucks.  However, if hunters want to harvest mature bucks, they must pass younger bucks.  I think it helps if those of us that wish to harvest mature bucks encourage each other.  I hope you’ll take my advice and be patient.  Harvesting a mature buck is a great accomplishment that’s worth the effort!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Fawn with visible antlers??

Question

Have you ever seen a spotted fawn with visible horns broken through the hairline before?  Do you see this often?  I have two pictures of a fawn that is a triplet the mother had.  I have never seen one this young with the horns broken through the hairline already.

Jay

Jay,

I’ve never seen a fawn that young with visible antlers in captivity or in the wild.  That’s certainly an oddity.  I’d be interested if you get images of that fawn as he matures this fall.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cafeteria Test for Deer

Question

I’m in Indiana with corn and soybeans everywhere.  I also put out about 30 acres of clover, milo, Eagle Seed beans and winter wheat.  I’ve planted brassicas before so deer could have winter food but they have never eaten it.  Does this mean my other foods have been preferred?

I was at your field day, I know that took a lot of time to put together, thanks and well done!!!  I’ll send you all some photos of my deer herd (a work in progress).  One photo has 4 bucks and a doe in it.  There is a big 8 pointer that has moved on down the trail and you can see his head behind a small bush.  Sometimes I think I would rather pull cards and look at photos than hunt.

Thanks again and God Bless,

Percy

Percy,

Wow – you have established a smorgasbord for deer!  In effect, you’ve also created a cafeteria test.  That is, you’ve offered the deer at your property a variety of crops and they have shown you what crops they preferred by consuming some more than others.  Unlike a cafeteria test for humans, deer typically change their preferences as time progresses because plants change in taste and quality as they mature.  In addition, the results can be different in other areas as plants can taste different based on the nutrients available in the soil.  Thanks for sharing your results!

I also enjoy placing trail cameras and viewing the images almost as much as hunting!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Timber Stand Improvement

Question

Dr. Woods,

I too have a farm in southwest Missouri that is used only for raising wild critters and a little bit of cultivated crops.  It used to be a 325 acre beef farm, but we decided to jettison the herd a few years back and have slowly been converting it to a more biologically friendly environment for turkey, deer, and quail.  We have already seen tangible improvements in our deer herd and a population increase in turkeys.  We know the best is yet to come, however, we still have a lot of room left for learning and improving, which you continue to have a hand in.  I really enjoyed your theory on cedar thickets being a “biological desert” (GDTV 15).  I had always looked at cedar thickets as great cover for deer, but now realize they serve little purpose.  We have several acres of cedar thickets that I now plan to either thin out or completely eradicate.  I plan to establish mixed stands of WSGs and switchgrass in their place.  As good bedding cover is certainly the limiting factor on our farm, the conversion of the cedar glens to bedding cover will be a huge boost in the biodiversity of our little corner of “deer heaven.”

Just wanted to drop you a line and say thanks for your efforts, the information you dole out is always interesting and helpful.  If I may be so bold to suggest future topics, I think people might like to hear your theories on timber stand management; specifically, choosing cull trees/species and understanding forest biology in general.  I know some of our woodlots are way too thick, but I just don’t know where to start.  I’m apprehensive because I never want to cut down any tree.  Heck, my Dad had to twist my arm to agree to have one of our many cedar thickets bulldozed and planted into a 3 acre clover, chicory, and lespedeza field!  Any help would be appreciated and thanks again Dr. Grant.

Todd

Todd,

Thanks for the kind words.  It sounds as if you have a great project!  If the topography is steep where some of the cedar glades are, there may be a good native grass seed base present.  There was a great native seed source at my place.  I simply cut and felled the cedars, allowed them to dry for two to three years, then burned them where they fell.  A fabulous composition of native warm season grasses and forbs recolonized the area.  The state botanist and I have identified 176 species of native warm season grasses and forbs.  The only maintenance I’ve done on those sites since the original fire has been additional prescribed fires on a three to five year rotation.

Cedar glades that became established on tillable land usually don’t have a good native plant seed base as it was disturbed during the previous tillage.

TSI is very site and mission specific.  It’s a great tool, but be prepared for the response time to be much slower than most other types of habitat improvement.  The most important tip I would offer concerning implementing a TSI project is to make sure the stumps of the cut trees are treated with the appropriate herbicides.  Stump sprouts rarely develop into good quality timber and rapidly grow out of being a beneficial habitat component.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Poke Berries

Question

Last week I caught something I’ve never seen before on film.  There was a 75 acre bean field that was ready to be picked any day.  I saw deer cross the field to eat poke berries. Is this unusual?

Woody

Woody,

Deer do prefer the forage of polk when the plants are young, then the fruit when they mature.  When conventional soybeans begin to fill the pods, they extract nutrients from the forage and the palatability is reduced.  This tends to occur (depending on planting date, weather, etc.) the same time that poke berries ripen.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Eagle Seed Bean Varieties

Question

This spring I planted forage beans for the first time.  I used Eagle Seed Large Lad and had great luck.  What specific variety of Eagle Seeds do you use?  Do you have any recommendations for growing them?

David

David,

I also have had great success with the Large Lad forage soybeans from Eagle Seed.  I primarily plant them and the Wildlife Manager’s mix, depending on my mission for the plot.  The Large Lad variety produces more bean pods than the Wildlife Manger blend.  However, the Wildlife Manger blend will produce green forage a bit later during the fall.

Eagle Seed forage beans are very easy to grow and manage.  I simply ensure the plots are adequately fertilized and keep the weeds controlled.  They are a great tool for deer managers!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crop Rotation

Question

Dr. Woods,

Thank you for answering my previous questions.  You did such a good job I have another question.  I was recently told that I should not plant a brassica in the same field for more than two consecutive years because the field will get a fungus and will not produce.  Is that true?  We have enjoyed much success with brassicas (especially turnips).  There are a couple areas right in front of stand sites that we have planted in brassica the last two years and would like to do so again next year.  I understand crop rotation is best, but since it is a fall annual and we fertilize do I need to be concerned with the fungus?

Once again, I really enjoy your site and the knowledge you share.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

Jeff,

Yes, crop rotation is an excellent practice for several reasons!  Different crops pull different micronutrients from the soil.  An intensive regime of soil analysis and adding trace minerals in the fertilizer is necessary to partially compensate for a less than desirable crop rotation program.

Another reason to rotate crops is to reduce the buildup of crop-specific pests.  Rotating crops breaks the life cycle of many pests (but not all).  Planting the same crop repetitively allows crop-specific pests to multiply rapidly.  I’ve never noticed any more of a problem with brassicas than any other common food plot crop.  You should consider planting clover or a small grain crop (wheat, rye grain, or oats) for a year to benefit from the practice of crop rotation!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Digesting Corn

Question

Grant,

Last year we killed two deer that had corn in their stomachs.  They were shot over a mile from the closest corn field.  How long does it take for a deer to digest corn?

Adam

Adam,

There are several factors that impact how fast food passes through the digestive system of deer.  Other food items will determine the acidity, etc, in the rumen.  A better indicator may be checking up the esophagus as food items move down the esophagus rapidly.  If there is whole corn that doesn’t appear partially digested (regurgitated) in the esophagus, I might suspect a bait pile somewhere closer than the corn field a mile away.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Unidentified Weed

Question

I have planted Eagle Seed Large Lad beans the last three years.  This year a weed came up in my beans that I have never seen.  It is 8-10 feet tall with a very large leaf (pie plate) on a cane like stalk.  Any idea what this massive weed might be?

I really enjoy your videos.  They parallel everything on my plots in Cumberland County, Tennessee.

Mike

Mike,

Did the weed survive spraying the Eagle Seed Beans with glyphosate?  If so, it may be pigweed.  If you didn’t spray the crop, it might be giant ragweed, which has a large leaf.  You might search online for an image of these weeds or ask a local extension agent.

Both of these weeds exist in your area (and mine).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trophy Rock

Question

Grant,

Hello from north Georgia.  I have had a trail camera out since June watching a Trophy Rock.  Deer have been using it but in the last two weeks none of my good bucks have showed up.  I’m guessing they quit needing the mineral and moved to the acorns.  There is no other food source, other than small gardens, as most have been harvested now.

Thanks,

Dewayne

Dewayne,

Deer at The Proving Grounds are still using Trophy Rocks.  They are also consuming acorns.  So, I wonder if the deer at your place simply shifted their range in search of food.  Are you seeing deer sign in the area?  You might place your trail camera on another resource, such as water that is near the Trophy Rock, just to get an indicator for deer activity in the area.  Deer tend to back off the salt products during the cool season, but continue using Trophy Rock because of the many trace minerals it includes.

Patterning deer in areas where acorns are the primary food source is difficult.  Food plots are tremendous tools in these areas!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Harvest Does

Question

I just watched your video (GDTV 45) and it caused me to think about the advantages and disadvantages of early-season doe harvest.

In spite of a greater doe than buck harvest on my property for the last 4 years, I still have too many does.  I haven’t done a formal survey, but I think I should take out 8-10 does on my 910 acres.  I’m split over harvesting the does right now or waiting until after the rut.  I’m sure I can find help harvesting does near the end of the season.

I would think thinning out some does now would result in stronger rutting activity which might increase my odds of harvesting a mature buck, but I’m worried about the pressure it puts on the area.  The peak rutting activity is probably only weeks away.  What do you think?

Last year we harvested three 3.5 year old or better bucks, 8 does and 1 button buck (that hunter is not invited back this year).

Congrats on your successful website and video series.  I watch it every week!

Jim

Jim,

It’s better for the herd to remove the does early.  This strategy leaves more food for the remainder of the herd to consume during the winter months.  If the does are removed before the rut, the bucks won’t expend resources chasing and breeding does that will be removed from the herd.  However, it may cause some disturbance to harvest does before the rut.

The biggest problem with waiting late in the season to harvest does is that managers that use this strategy often don’t meet their harvest objective.  If you use the “after the rut” strategy for doe management, make sure you reach your doe harvest objective.  I prefer to begin harvesting does as soon as legal and continue until the objective is met.  Harvested does are usually a great attractant to bucks.  I’ve harvested many mature bucks that were sniffing a doe I’d shot previously from that stand during the same hunt.  I consider having a doe laying in front of me a good attraction for mature bucks.  I certainly don’t attempt to move the doe until that hunt is over.  By moving the doe it causes much more disturbance than simply allowing the doe to lay there.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Unfertile Food Plots

Question

Dr. Woods,

I have been managing an 853 acre farm for five years in Caulfield, Missouri.  I have dozed six 2-3 acre food plots but I don’t get as much production out of them as I would like.  I have taken soil samples and added the correct fertilizers and lime.  I read an article you wrote that talked about the farm you own and how you put humified compost down because of how unfertile it is.  What exactly is humified compost, where can I find it, and how expensive is it?

I love to hunt, if I could I would spend every day in the woods, but I have to work.  I enjoy growing big bucks but I just don’t see the results that I would like.

Thanks,

Brett

Brett,

I’ve been very pleased with the crops produced on my rocky, very low fertility sites after I applied humified compost.  I get mine from Antler Dirt.  I’ve been pleased with their product and service.  If it will produce 6’ tall forage beans at my place, it would probably turn a desert green!  Humified compost addresses many more characteristics of the soil than just the ph and N, P, and K levels.  It usually cost about the same as adding lime and the appropriate amount of commercial fertilizer, depending on shipping costs.

I encourage you to have patience with the progress of your deer management program.  There are multiple research projects that show bucks produced by malnourished does never express their full potential, ever after five years of growth.  This same trend is true with humans that are malnourished as infants.  So, if you had supper quality food plots the first year of your project, the fawns born that year probably wouldn’t express their potential even as five year old bucks (the mature bucks you may currently be hunting).

For deer to express their full antler growth and body size potential, their parent’s parents would need to have been consuming all the quality forage they desired.  So, if a short deer generation is three years, then two generations are six years.  Then the offspring of that second generation is allowed to mature to five years of age (actually 6 years – 0.5, 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 4.5, and 5.5 years old). It would require 12 years for a property with low quality habitat to produce deer that express their maximum potential.  This is a long-term project!  I’ve spent eight years working on The Proving Grounds.  Each year I have been able to monitor progress in both habitat and deer herd quality.  I’ve enjoyed the process and am really looking forward to seeing what quality of deer will be produced in a few more years!

By the way, the total time to show improvement of deer herd quality when beginning in better quality habitat is much less.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Velvet on Late in Florida

Question

I live in north Florida and just got a picture of one of the largest rack bucks on our property ever.  Why would he still be in velvet?  I have never seen a buck still in velvet this time of the year.  I have heard that he may have injured his testes and if so would he still rut?  The picture we got of him was at an active scrape.  Thanks for any info you might have on this!

James

James,

There are multiple reasons why bucks hold their velvet late.  Having an image of the buck in a scrape is encouraging!  However, I doubt an accurate diagnosis can be made without handling the buck.

Let me know if you harvest this buck or get any more clues!

Grant

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Haybale Blind

Question

I enjoyed GDTV 45.  How do you make the haybale blind and is it portable?

Tom

Tom,

I was a guest of Heartland Bowhunter.  They introduced me to the Midwest Haybale Blind.  It worked great!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Hungry Deer

Question

Grant,

Hello and greetings from your neighboring state, Illinois!  I have noticed with the early cut corn fields and the wet weather/nice days, the kernels of corn that were left on the dinner table have now sprouted into new young corn stalks.  Since most corn is planted around here during green up, I never paid much attention if deer eat those new plants or not.  This year is much different!  I see LOTS of deer in the cut corn right now.  Are they eating the new growth?  What affect might the “lack of kernels” have on late winter food sources for the properties without food plots?  Knowing when our first frost comes, those new corn plants will die off in a hurry.  Only thing left is whole or partial ears with corn still attached.  That won’t last long!!!

Derrick

Derrick,

That’s a very good observation!  I suspect that the deer will concentrate on the few corn fields that were harvested later and have a bit more corn available.  When the limited supply of corn is consumed, the deer will probably move to the bean fields.  This may make locating the preferred food sources a bit easier this year as the food sources are more limited.  However, the trade-off for having limited food and better hunting this winter is that deer will not be in as good of physical condition next spring during antler growth and fawning season.

Hungry deer are much easier to hunt, but they express less of their potential than deer with ample food resources.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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October Lull

Question

Grant,

What is your theory/opinion on the October lull?  It feels like I experience this every year.  I get thousands of trail cam pictures from the time bucks start growing their antlers to around mid-September.  Then they seem to disappear until mid-October.  After that they show back up just as before.  The only possible explanation that I can come up with is acorns.  One of the major limiting resources on our farm is oak trees.  We probably only have 3 or 4 that produce acorns (but no acorns this year).  What is your take on this?

Bret

Bret,

Many folks talk about the “October lull.”  I suspect it is a function of the deer changing both behavior and food sources between velvet shed and pre-rut.  The bucks are very visible during the pre-velvet shed period and usually are easily found near forage crops.  However, the bucks shift to desiring carbohydrates (grains and acorns) more than protein (forage) during late September and early October.  Hunters that capitalize on this trend don’t seem to experience the October lull as much.

I’d much rather manage and hunt a herd in an area that didn’t have many oaks.  Acorns are relatively low quality and an unreliable food source from year to year.  If acorn producing trees are rare, patterning deer may be easy.  But when acorns are present throughout the area, it makes patterning deer very difficult.  That is one reason I really enjoy hunting prairie areas.  The few oak trees present in this habitat type are easy to find both by deer and hunters.

Another consideration is that deer digest acorns much slower than soybean leaves, soybeans, corn, etc.  Acorns are very fibrous.  Deer with a diet of highly digestible forage tend to feed more often.  This results in greater levels of deer activity and active deer are easier to pattern and hunt than bedded deer. Deer that consume many acorns probably don’t have as many feeding bouts compared to deer consuming less fibrous foods.  Also, deer that eat more high quality food grow larger antlers and produce more fawns.  There are very few Boone and Crocket deer registered from areas that are predominately oaks.  However, hunters that harvest mature bucks regularly in areas where the habitat is primarily predominately oaks are very skilled hunters!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting on Small Farms

Question

Dr. Grant,

I live in Ohio and I own 33 acres of woods that are surrounded by hundreds of acres.  I have had a camera over a corn pile for about 2 months now.  I keep getting the same three 3-year old bucks every day (as well as a lot of yearling bucks).  Do you believe that these are the only 3-year old bucks living within my 33 acres?  The biggest buck is 130” which is not a shooter for me.  Would I have the best chance to get a mature buck by waiting for the rut?  How many acres on average do bucks travel during the rut?  My hope is to catch a mature buck looking for does on my land.  Also, I am afraid of shooting does on such a small property until I get a buck first.  What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

Brent

Brent,

Certainly the deer using your land are also using the neighboring properties.  So the odds of you harvesting a mature buck are somewhat impacted by the harvest guidelines your neighbors use.  For example, if they never pass a three year old buck, then your chance of harvesting a four year old or older buck is slim.  Some bucks do travel further during the rut, but those trips are usually only for a day or two.  That means it’s a matter of you being hunting at the right time.

I think it’s important to enjoy the hunt.  If you enjoy waiting on a four year old or older buck, great!  However, there’s nothing wrong with legally harvesting a three year old buck, especially from a smaller sized farm!  So, make sure you are enjoying the hunt no matter where you decide to set your personal harvest goals!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Feeding Cycle

Question

Thanks so much for the great information that you provide.  It may not be said often enough, but it is greatly appreciated and thanks to both you and Brad.

The past week we have had a bright full moon and the past thoughts have been that with a full moon deer bed up during the day and move mostly at night.  I was wondering that with deer being a ruminant and having to chew its cud for digestion, is it possible for a deer to graze/forage all night?  Can the rumen of a whitetail hold that much food to allow them to feed all night, assuming adequate amounts of forage?  Also, would this make the deer more likely to bed up a little earlier in the morning then normal and then move again late morning/early afternoon?

Jim

Jim,

There’s been an ongoing debate for years about deer movement related to the phase of the moon.  However, fairly extensive research by multiple scientists hasn’t found any correlation to daytime activity of deer and any moon phase.

The number of feeding bouts per day depends more on the quality of forage than the size of the rumen.  For example, deer can digest soybean forage much more rapidly than acorns.  Hence deer consuming soybean forage will likely have more feeding bouts per day than deer consuming acorns.  Because the deer consume more pounds of quality forage when eating soybeans versus acorns, they will usually have larger antlers, bodies, and more fawns per doe.  They are also easier to hunt because they have more feeding bouts per day and move to a specific location versus rambling through the woods searching for acorns.  Soybeans are literally the cause of making the Midwest deer herd so desirable to hunt for many hunters!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Source in Non-Ag Areas

Question

I live in NW Arkansas, and we have little to no agricultural crops for wildlife (deer) to eat.  Other than acorns in the fall, what do deer mostly consume in areas like this, from fall to winter?

Thanks,

Justin

Justin,

Deer in non-agricultural areas are forced to be browsers.  That is to say they consume the tips of woody twigs and dead leaves during the winter.  During the growing season they seek herbaceous plants, berries, fruit, etc.  This relatively low quality diet is why deer in non-agricultural areas are usually much smaller in size than deer living in areas with commercial agricultural such as corn and soybeans.

Deer living in areas where there is not specific food sources, such as an ag field, tend to be difficult to hunt as they don’t travel to a specific place to eat on a regular basis.  Some of the best hunters I know learned to hunt in such areas.  They rely on great woodsmanship and scouting skills to locate and harvest deer.  The skills you learn hunting near your home will serve you well wherever you travel in the future!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Thermals near a Lake

Question

I know most of us try to do everything we can to control scent.  I hunt in an area very similar to yours with mostly rock/hills and those air currents.  Have you tried the new Ozonics or have any information or opinion on this product?  I can see that if this product does what it says it could help a lot.  Can you also refresh my memory on what you said about air currents with lakes nearby?

Ron

Ron,

I’m still attempting to learn about ozone as a hunting tool.  Those of us that hunt in hilly or mountainous topography certainly need help in controlling our scent dispersal in swirling winds!

Typically large bodies of water remain warmer than the surrounding land when the air temperatures begin to cool.  Therefore the air over the water rises.  This creates a vacuum and air from the surrounding hills rushes in to fill that vacuum.  This air movement pattern is predictable and can be used to predict wind direction and stand placement.  Understanding air movement is critical to stand entry and placement!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Habitat Improvement

Question

Dr. Woods,

I live in northeast Missouri and have access to 3 farms around 200 acres a piece.  We have planted food plots and now we are interested in improving our native browse and cover.  We have many oak, hickory, and other native Missouri trees.  There are many places that you can see 100+ yards without difficulty.  The forest floor is pretty open, covered in oak leaves and little vegetation less than 5 feet tall.  The majority of the bigger trees are 15-18″ diameter.  We have a mix of younger trees that include a lot of hickory which are 5-10″ diameter.  There are younger oaks, elm, ash, and other species.  We are interested in improving our timber stand with cutting.  Would you recommend cutting ourselves or talking to a logger?  We do not want to get rid of too many acorn producing trees.  Would loggers be willing to take the less desirable trees, especially the medium sized trees (8-15″ diameter)?

I would appreciate any recommendations on improving our current habitat.  Thank you for such an informative website.

Jeff

Jeff,

The ability to sell timber is always dependent on the current market in each region.  Generally, the current timber market is slow.  To improve the quality and quantity of native vegetation, the forest canopy will need to be opened at least 30% to allow sunlight to reach the soil throughout the day.  This can only be accomplished by removing lots of trees.  I suggest you work with a local forester (state employee or private consultant) to evaluate the timber stand and learn accurate information about the local timber market.  The forester can also mark the trees to harvest based on your objectives.  They should also be able to help you time the harvest to maximize income produced.  Timber prices can move slowly, so you may have to wait months or longer if maximizing the income is a priority.

If the existing timber stands are thinned without any additional follow-up treatment, the residual stumps will produce multiple sprouts each.  The forage produced by these sprouts is relatively low quality food.  In addition, within 2-5 years the sprouts will grow to a point that they fail to provide quality cover or food within the reach of a deer.

Timber harvest can be a good wildlife habitat management tool, but usually requires follow-up treatment (prescribed fire, herbicide, etc.) to maintain the stand’s ability to produce quality food and cover.  If the treatment isn’t appropriately applied and/or maintained, the habitat quality is rarely improved.  The timber harvest should be designed specifically for wildlife habitat improvement on a site-specific basis to ensure the habitat is improved.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Armyworms

Question

Dr. Woods,

We recently planted 6 (2-3 acre) winter wheat and winter oats plots on our farms in west central Missouri.  Two weeks ago I went and checked all of the plots.  They were doing excellent, growing great and looking to produce a high yield.  I went in to hunt this last weekend and checked several of the plots.  Most of the wheat/oat plots are doing great, but 1 of them appears to have been over-browsed or somehow died off.  Taking a closer look, I noticed a lot of wheat/oat stubble that appeared to be bit off nearly at the base.  I was a little confused, some of our plots are untouched and this plot had been hammered already.  My understanding is whitetails primarily won’t hit these types of plots until first frost.  We purchased this piece of property last December, and I know there is an excess of does.  Do you think it could be an over-browsing problem, plant disease, or something along those lines?  Do you think there is any chance of this plot making a comeback?

Thanks for your time.  I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

Steve

Steve,

I strongly suspect your plot was consumed by Armyworms!!  They are currently consuming my plots.  The insecticide Baythroid or Mustang can be used to kill the Armyworms.  However, it may require multiple applications.

If the plots are severely damaged, they may not regrow.  Dang, it’s always something and this year seems to have had more troubles than most with droughts, floods, and now Armyworms!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broadcast Soybeans

Question

I’m interested in planting soybeans next spring.  I have some equipment, but I don’t have any planting equipment.  Can you broadcast beans or do you need to use a planter?

James

James,

Soybeans can be broadcast as long as there is a good seedbed that allows seed to soil contact.  The successful germination rate will be higher if the seed is covered.  Covering the seed can be accomplished with a drag, cultipacker, etc.  Even after covering the seed, the germination rate will probably not be as high as if planted with a drill or planter.  So plan to plant at least twice as much seed as you would if using a drill.

It’s best to plant just before a rain, if possible, when using the broadcast method.  The raindrops will serve to splash some dirt on top of the seed and provide adequate moisture so the seed germinates quickly rather than die from desiccation.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Harvest Data Collection

Question

Grant,

I help run a QDM co-op in east central Ohio which consists of 3000 acres in a checkerboard fashion over 16 square miles.  Some of the properties not in the co-op also practice QDM at some level.  When collecting jawbones and fetuses for harvest data, what percentage of each of these should be collected in order to get a good overall picture of our harvest data?  The obvious answer is all of them, but in a voluntary community co-op it’s impossible to expect to get all of them collected.  The QDMA forums sent me to you to ask this question.

Curt

Curt,

Harvest data is like providing symptoms to a medical doctor.  The more ACCURATE data available to interpret, the more accurate the treatment that can be prescribed.  This is certainly true with deer harvest data.  If no data from the mature bucks are collected, or fetal data is not collected throughout the entire harvest season, it’s easy to develop an inaccurate image of the deer herd and make erroneous management prescriptions.

I realize the more data that is required to be collected, the less compliance will occur.  Therefore, I’ve changed over the years to requesting only the most basic information from each deer including, gender, lower jaw, whole or gutted body weight (either will work, but it needs to be consistent), lactation (yes or no until mid December), and BC gross score.

Data from fetuses are very interesting, but not necessary for managing a herd.  These data may well be necessary for addressing specific research questions.

Other data that is easy to collect is just as important.  For example, the ratio of food availability to the number of deer is easily monitored using utilization cages.  Deer herd demographics can be monitored by a trail camera survey and this only requires access and a few workers rather than every member contributing effort.

Data is critical to a good deer management program, but there is a fine line between requesting too much data and encouraging complete cooperation.  Each deer manager/co-op must decide how much data (how precise the management prescription) they feel is necessary to meet their objectives.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Rye Grain

Question

What are your thoughts on planting Rye Grain in your plots?

Derek

Derek,

Rye Grain is a good cool season crop for white-tailed deer.  It has about the same nutritional value as winter wheat, but continues growing during colder temperatures.  In fact, it will continue growing in temperatures that are about 12 degrees colder than wheat will grow.  One down side to Rye Grain is that the seed readily germinates.  Therefore, if Rye Grain is allowed to mature through the seed production stage, there will be another crop of Rye Grain the following year.  Although this sounds good, deer stop consuming Rye Grain (and other cereal grain crops) once the crop matures from the leaf or vegetative stage and enters the stem stage (from a flat leaf to a round stem).

Therefore, Rye Grain can take up valuable food plot real estate for months and not provide any food value to deer.  This year I mixed Rye Grain and Winter Wheat 50:50 in my cool season plots.  I’ll spray it with glyphosate during early spring so I can plant a warm season crop in that real estate as soon as the temperature permits.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Developing Cover in Ag Fields

Question

I recently purchased a piece of property which adjoins my existing property to the North.  The new property is almost devoid of cover and consists of agricultural fields.  What is the best way to establish cover quickly in an area that was previously managed for agriculture?

Your latest video (GDTV 45) was great!  I was especially excited to see the hay bale blind.  Any idea what they made that out of?  Great Idea!

Ryan

Ryan,

Thanks for the kind words and congratulations on purchasing additional property!  Standing corn works well as cover, especially if it is not next to a public road.  Switchgrass is my favorite type of cover.  However, it requires time (at least two years) and substantial financial resources to establish.  It is perfect to block the view from public roads and serve as cover simultaneously!  I like to make cover areas at least 10 acres so predators can’t easily cruise along the downwind side and smell every prey species within the cover area.

The hay bale blind was a great tool in that setting!  It was constructed with a wire panel or heavy webbed wire forming the round portion of the ball with straw held together between a plastic weave to give the “hay bale” appearance.  The flat ends of the bale were constructed from plywood and covered with the same plastic weave that held the straw in place.  I liked that blind!

GrowingDeer together,

Grant

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Covert vs. Semi-covert Trail Cameras

Question

Dr. Woods,

You talk quite a bit about using trail cameras for successful scouting and for setting up camera stations to better manage your deer herd.  I was curious if you opt to use no-glow or true IR cameras vs. low-glow or near IR cameras at The Proving Grounds?  Do you see an advantage or disadvantage of one over the other?

Great site by the way!  I’m learning a lot of new information!

Christopher

Christopher,

Thanks for the kind words!  I desire to cover the maximum distance at nighttime in each image without spooking deer.  The Reconyx semi-covert units seem to offer the best solution to my objective.  I’ve used both Reconyx covert (no glow) and semi-covert (low glow) units.  I prefer the low glow as I don’t notice any deer spooking from the “flash” of the semi-covert units and they allow nighttime images to be taken at a greater distance.  This may or may not be true with other brands of trail cameras.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Scrapes

Question

I’ve heard a lot of stuff about scrapes but I would like to know the truth from a real biologist. How do you classify scrapes?  Are there such things as primary and secondary scrapes, community scrapes, and territorial scrapes?  Or are scrapes just to see if the doe is hot and ready to breed?  What are the different types of scrapes and when do they happen?

Tom

Tom,

Scrape behavior was the subject of the research project for my Master’s thesis.  I’ve always been fascinated by deer use of scrapes.  I filmed a mature buck marking an existing scrape while hunting in Kansas recently.  I share this to let you know I have studied and hunted near scrapes for decades.  With that said, I and other scientists still have many unanswered questions about scrapes.  I will summarize my research on scrapes by saying…

  1. Each scrape is a unique signpost.
    1. I’m not aware of any location (field edge, etc.) that predicts the demographics or frequency of deer visits to that scrape.
  2. Does and fawns frequently visit scrapes.
  3. Some scrapes, especially the licking branch portion of the scrape, are used year round.
    1. These are typically located in areas that deer travel frequently.
  4. Peak use of scrapes occurs about two weeks before peak conception in that location.
    1. Selecting a stand simply because it overlooks a scrape during the rut is probably not the best tactic.
  5. I do not believe in primary, secondary, or territorial scrapes.
    1. Deer don’t defend their home range by scent marking like many predators do.  Deer probably use scent marking to communicate specific messages, such as breeding status, etc.  However, even that is a theory.
      1. Certainly some scrapes are used by deer more frequently than others. This is especially true in areas with an adult sex ratio that is balanced or favors bucks.
  6. At minimum, scrapes mark areas that deer have traveled.  Fresh scrapes indicate deer are currently using that area.  I use scrapes more to learn about deer travel routes than I do exact stand locations.

I hope my observations provide you a foundation to form your opinions.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Seed Germination Rates

Question

I want to say thank you for sharing your success with us every week.  I also want to thank you for sharing your failures as well.  I loved the segment when you showed that your food plots were less than optimal and shared with us the reason why (GDTV 43).  It is easy to brag when things go great but not so easy to admit fault.  I have had several experiences where my food plot was a miserable failure and I often wondered why.  Your segment made me realize what I did wrong and how to correct it in the future.

In doing a germination test what should be an acceptable germination rate and when is it unacceptable?  If I get an unacceptable rate then what should I do with the seed that I purchased?  Can I return it to the vendor?

Don

Don,

Thank you for your kind words!  I expect the germination rate to be very close to what is published on the bag.  Most seed companies must follow some government regulated guidelines to test and publish the germination rates.  The published rates expire and must be retested after a specified period of time.  If you purchase seed that is labeled with a germination rate and the rate is less than labeled, I would certainly take it back for an exchange or refund.  In general, I like the seed I’m planting to have a 90+% germination rate.  However, there are exceptions.  Hard-seeded crops like clover will maintain a higher germination rate than soft-seeded crops like wheat.  I’ve purchased excess clover (probably because I received a discounted price) and maintained it for more than a year or two in a cool, dry, dark storage area before.  As long as the germination rate is 75% or better, I plant it and smile!  In this situation, a reduced germination rate should be considered as a trade-off for the reduced price.  Caution should be used with determining the value of such trade-offs as more seed must be planted per acre to compensate for the reduced germination.  Ideally we all want to plant fresh seed with a very high germination rate.  However, in reality we will likely have some seed left over or are given some that might have a reduced germination rate.  In this case, it’s always wise to do a germination test before planting so the seeding rate to achieve the appropriate stand density can be accurately calculated.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mixing Seed and Fertilizer

Question

You’ve been a big help.

What is your opinion on broadcasting the seed and fertilizer together?

Thanks,

Mac

Mac,

I commonly mix seed and fertilizer and broadcast them.  To be successful, make sure the seed will make good contact with the soil by having a good seedbed prepared, cultipacking the seed/fertilizer after it is spread, or spreading the mixture just before a rain event.

Another consideration is that commercial fertilizer is very toxic to seed if it is in direct contact.  Don’t allow the seed and fertilizer to be mixed together for an extended period of time.  I like to spread the mixture within four hours of blending to insure the seed is not harmed by the fertilizer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Controlling Sicklepod in Soybeans

Question

I really enjoy your program and website.  Thanks so much for what you do.

I have a 2 acre site in a bottom next to a creek that I have grown a variety of things in over the years.  I had round-up ready corn there two years ago and it did very well until the wild hogs found it!  I planted round-up ready corn again this year, hoping that the continued spraying of round-up would eliminate the weeds in the field.  I probably did not have my two row corn planter adjusted correctly and that combined with low rainfall resulted in a 25% stand.  So, I left it alone this summer which was a BIG MISTAKE.  I bush hogged it this week and about 75-80% of the field was Sicklepod!  I want to plant clover and/or soybeans in that field in the future.  How can I control Sicklepod in clover or beans?

Tim

Tim,

Sicklepod is a controllable weed, especially in soybeans.  However, it usually requires a mixture of herbicides.  For example, glyphosate alone will not control Sicklepod.  Which combination of herbicides should be used depends on the crops to be grown and the timing of the herbicide applications.

Usually total control requires a pre- and post- emergent application of herbicides.  These recipes are a bit more technical than most weed control applications, I suggest you visit with a local crop specialist or search the web.

It usually requires a multiyear program to remove Sicklepod from the seed bank, but is well worth the effort!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trapping Coyotes

Question

Dr. Woods,

I seem to have a coyote problem; I am getting a coyote or two each day on each of my cameras (6 cameras on 100 acres).  They could be the same coyotes, but either way I want to start removing them from the property.  I just wanted to mention my interest in trapping them in the hopes that you might demonstrate trapping techniques on the show this winter.  I recall you stating how difficult they were to trap in your winter trapping video (GDTV 10) last season.  Deer are overpopulated here so maybe a natural predator is a good thing.  When I do get a photo of a coyote I sometimes get a picture of a deer within 15 minutes.  So I’m not sure whether or not they have a big impact on my hunting.

Thanks!

Eric

Eric,

Coyotes consume deer (fawns and adults).  Coyotes also keep deer very alert.  This is probably just as important to hunters as the number of deer coyotes kill.  If deer can avoid four-legged predators, they are probably going to be very successful at avoiding two-legged predators – especially at close range.  If you enjoy bow hunting, I strongly encourage you to attempt to reduce the local coyote population.

I will be trapping coyotes and other predators this fall.  I’ll be working with a professional trapper, Will Roberts, and sharing some of his techniques.  Stay tuned!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Are food plots better for whitetails than supplemental feed?

Question

Dear Doc,

I hunt 550 acres under high fence near Selma, Alabama.  We have approximately 50 acres of fields and a good mixture of CRP, select cut, clear cut, and creek bottoms.  This year we planted 20 acres of Eagle Beans and corn and have had great success.  We still have tons and tons of forage, corn, and pods.  We also supplemental feed in feeders and troughs in the off-season (Feb – Sept).  My concern is whether or not I am wasting my time and money putting out protein.  The deer do eat it but not nearly as much now with the beans/corn.  We are planting 10 acres in chicory/clover, 18 acres in triticale, oats, radishes, and leaving two big fields (10 acres each) in standing corn and beans (fields are well-spaced throughout the property).  The deer have not even come close to eating all of the corn/beans and I expect lots of food all the way through January.  Is the protein beneficial or a waste of time?

Next spring, we will be adding two additional Eagle Bean fields (one 5 acres and one 3 acres).  The main reason for doing this is to have them strategically located so the deer don’t have to travel too far in the summer heat to access the big fields.  The buck:doe ratio is about 2.5:1 and we are not close to the carrying capacity of the property.  Thanks for the help and I look forward to your response.

Chris

Chris,

It sounds as if you have a very intensive deer management program!  Most supplemental feeds are based on corn and soybeans with some molasses, etc., added to attract deer.  It’s usually much less expensive to grow corn and soybeans compared to paying for someone else to grow, harvest, process, bag, ship, and retail the grains.  In addition, it’s healthier for the deer to feed throughout a field versus several deer feeding out of the same feeder.  Encouraging deer to feed in close proximity day after day results in social stress among the herd in addition to increasing the odds of one sick deer passing an illness to other deer.

Supplemental feeding can be performed with minimal risk to a deer herd.  However, it requires the feeders being moved frequently and disinfected.  I’d much rather grow the feed on site and allow the deer to consume it in the field than pour it out of a bag.

Another consideration is that non-target critters like raccoons can consume huge amounts of supplemental feed.  This is an added expense in multiple ways.  Not only does this increase the amount of feed that is purchased it also allows predators to easily pattern both deer and turkey.

I don’t supplemental feed at The Proving Grounds for the above reasons and am well satisfied with the results.  I’d much rather create a few more acres of feeding plots than pay for a supplemental feeding program.  A final consideration is that most folks would rather observe deer in a feeding plot than at a feeder.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Patterning Deer That Live in Ag Fields

Question

Here in Nebraska I have a hard time patterning bucks in the early season (September/early October).  With an abundance of agricultural fields it is hard to tune in on what crop/field deer are feeding in.  Due to a lack of cover/bedding areas I believe deer are bedding in the fields.  Is this common?  If so, how should I go about patterning bucks that sleep, eat, and drink within a 100 yard range?  Also, do deer prefer to bed in corn or soybeans?  Thanks for all the great info!

Ryan

Ryan,

Deer in such areas are very difficult to pattern and even more difficult to hunt.  I agree with you that at times mature bucks seem to remain within a few hundred yards all day.  Even if a hunter figures out this pattern, these bucks are still difficult to hunt.  The hunter can either opt to attempt stalking the deer with the wind in his favor, wait until the crops are harvested, or find another hunting location.

Although I’ve seen deer bedded in both, I believe mature bucks prefer bedding in corn rather than soybeans.  That’s good news as it’s much easier to stalk in corn versus soybeans.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Antler Dirt in Virginia

Question

I see that you use Antler Dirt to sweeten up your soil.  My soil is like yours, ROCKY!  Is there an Antler Dirt or similar product in Virginia (Danville area) that you know of?  Should I get topsoil put over the rocks for the time being?  I’m just getting started with food plots and am quite a novice.  Soil tests show that I need A LOT of help to get it “workable.”  I’ve been working on thinning and planting trees as well as fixing the pond.  Can’t wait to get your emails every week and hear your comments.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe,

I don’t think there is an Antler Dirt distributor in Virginia.  However, you should contact them to confirm the current options.  I suspect that hauling in topsoil would be cost prohibitive for most food plot farmers!  I’ve heard very good reports from folks using Antler Dirt TEA (a concentrated liquid form that includes the same beneficial microbes found in the Antler Dirt humified compost).  25 gallons of TEA won’t add the same amount of organic matter as applying a ton or two of Antler Dirt per acre, but the beneficial microbes will provide much benefit to the crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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No-till Drill

Question

I am interested in your recommendation for a seed drill.  I look forward to your answer.  By the way, I met you at QDMA in Louisville.  You recommended the Eagle Seed soybeans to plant.  I am going to give them a chance in 2011.  In advance, thanks.

Tom

Tom,

I have a Sukup brand no-till drill that has served me well.  If a piece of equipment can perform well at The Proving Grounds, it’s very well built as the soil is extremely rocky.  However, Sukup no longer makes no-till drills.  I have used several models of Great Plains drills throughout the whitetails’ range and have been very satisfied with each one.  Great Plains no-till drills are well built and do an excellent job of metering and placing the seed.  Many government agencies and agricultural stores rent no-till drills.  No matter the source, I really like the advantages of using a no-till drill.

I’ve been extremely pleased with the Eagle Seed brand of forage beans.  I’m not aware of another forage crop that produces as many tons of quality forage and is as easy to establish and maintain.  They are a key component of my habitat management plans!  I usually get two seasons of food production from Eagle Seed beans as the deer browse the forage during the summer and then consume the bean pods during the winter!  This system allows me to produce extremely high quality forage/feed on a year round basis.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Fertilize Clover

Question

I have a one acre food plot consisting of BioLogic Clover Plus with 5 lbs. of alfalfa mixed in.  The plot did very well, but of course the weeds started to grow also.  This is the second growing season for it.  I sent a soil sample this spring to BioLogic and they recommended that I fertilize the plot again.  I didn’t fertilize in June as I didn’t want to fertilize the weeds as well.  I mowed the plot in late August.  Would you recommend fertilizing now or waiting until spring?  The recommendation is for 155 lbs. of 0-20-20.  Also, in my area I am having difficulty finding fertilizer without nitrogen content, so I may have to use 5-20-20.

Thanks for the site.  It is a pleasure and blessing to be able to ask questions of such a knowledgeable individual.  I look forward to all the updates.

Thanks again,

Paul

Paul,

Thanks for the kind words!  I suggest you add fertilizer this fall.  Both clover and alfalfa store nutrients in their root systems through the winter.  This allows the plants to survive the winter and begin growing rapidly during the spring.  In addition, plants are simply nutrient transfer agents.  If the nutrients aren’t in the plant, they can’t be transferred to the deer.  Healthier plants are a key to healthier deer.  And healthier deer have bigger antlers and more fawns.  The 5-20-20 blend will work great!  Although legumes like clover and alfalfa can produce nitrogen, they will readily use an existing source.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Harvesting Food Plot Crops

Question

Grant,

Do you harvest any of what you plant at The Proving Grounds or is all of it dedicated to food plots?

Ronald

Ronald,

About three percent of The Proving Grounds is level enough to establish food plots.  Hence, all the crops planted at The Proving Grounds are dedicated to feeding wildlife.  Even if I wanted to, it would be very difficult to harvest the crops, because of the topography, except by hand.  Besides, it’s more fun, and probably more practical to allow the deer to consume the crops, and then let my family consume the deer!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Acorns when they are Plentiful

Question

Dr. Woods,

Here in Ohio this year there is a massive crop of acorns.  What are your suggestions on how to hunt?  It seems a deer could lay in its bed all day and eat acorns.

Thanks for any help!

Brent

Brent,

Trying to pattern deer when using a resource when that resource is plentiful is very difficult!  When acorns seem plentiful, I do look for trees that seem to have more sign near them or hunt a different resource.  For example when acorns are plentiful, I try to determine if water or cover is limited in that area.

Different species of oaks produce acorns with varying quantities of tannic acid.  The acid content determines the palatability of acorns, with white oak acorns generally having less acid content than acorns from red oak species.  Hence deer tend to prefer acorns from white oak trees during the early portion of the fall.  I tend to concentrate on white oak species during the early season.  It is possible to hunt a limited resource of the best tasting acorns even among an abundant supply of acorns.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Speaking Engagements

Question

Grant,

Do you have any firm or tentative plans to speak at Cabela’s, Bass Pro, or anywhere in Missouri in the next few weeks/months?

We meet you at Cabela’s last year.

Thanks,

Gil

Gil,

I will probably be speaking at multiple events for Bass Pro during 2011.  I don’t know the exact locations yet.  In addition, I’m already scheduled to speak at several locations during 2011 including near Cape Girardeau, MO on March 5th at a QDMA event.  I will be hosting a shed hunt at The Proving Grounds during March as well.  We’ll spend the day in the field looking for sheds and discussing deer and habitat management plans.  I’ll present a seminar that night most likely at the Bass Pro headquarters in Springfield, MO.  More information about this and other events will be posted soon on our web sites.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cover Scents

Question

Hey Grant,

It’s Chris again from northern Pennsylvania!  I have a bunch of questions for you…

First off, I think you said something at the QDMA convention in Kentucky about using deer scent such as regular doe pee in the woods and having it contaminate the whole area.  I use Tinks regular doe pee all year as a cover scent.  I spray it on my boots when I check my cameras and while I’m observing deer in a tower I hang a scent wick.  By using so much urine does it have a bad effect on the deer herd?  I also spray down with earth scent, so if they smell anything it should be doe pee.

My next question is about shot placement.  I’ve heard all about deer living on one lung, especially rutted up bucks.  My concern is if I should take a straight down shot or not?  My dad always taught me to shoot down through the lungs on this shot and aim a couple inches from the spine.  Is this a clean shot?  It seems at that angle it would just go down and destroy one lung.  What is your take on this shot?

Chris

Chris,

I think it is difficult for humans to understand how good a deer’s sense of smell is.  Most researchers believe deer can easily smell the cover scent, the human the cover scent is on, and probably what he had for breakfast several days ago.  I try to avoid anything, including scents that will attract a deer’s attention.

I will share that I know two hunters that have constantly smoked cigarettes for years – even while hunting.  They harvest mature bucks on a regular basis in areas were mature bucks are rare and receive a lot of hunting pressure.  I’m convinced that after years of chain smoking, these hunters’ bodies don’t smell like a normal human.  I don’t believe the risk of cancer is worth being a successful hunter, but it does make me think about cover scents.  I think for cover scents to be effective, they must mask all human odors, including exhaled breath, etc.  That’s difficult to do.

As to your second question, I do not knowingly take shots that will only penetrate one lung.  Such shots typically result in an extended recovery trail, or even worse a non-recovered or wounded animal.  Shot placement opportunities are an important consideration in stand placement and even more important when a shot possibility occurs.  Wait for the opportunity to penetrate both lungs and the outcome will be much better!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Bucks Changing Patterns before Season Opens

Question

I have been getting pictures of a nice mature main frame ten point starting in early August and going into early September.  Now that season is about to open here in southern Missouri I have not seen him in almost two weeks.  Would you stay in the same spot or try moving before next week?

Paul

Paul,

Mature bucks often change their patterns during early September or when they shed their velvet. This is because of the massive hormone changes that occur this time of year.  Bucks no longer are as tolerant of the presence of other bucks.  In addition, the first few acorns typically begin to drop during this time.  He’s still most likely in the neighborhood, but probably did change is pattern.  I hope you encounter him again soon!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Land for Sale

Question

Grant,

I’m looking to buy some land to hunt and manage in the near future.  In your opinion, what area of Missouri do you think would be best to buy land in to consistently grow trophy deer (140 plus inches in my opinion) and what’s the smallest amount of land I should look at to be able to implement a good QDMA program?  I know through sound management this can be accomplished most anywhere. I’ve grown up in the Ozarks hills of Taney County and love to see what you’ve accomplished in my back yard.  Keep up the good work and good luck this fall!

Thanks,

Lance

Lance,

I think great bucks can be produced in any part of Missouri!  The deer throughout Missouri were primarily restocked from remnant populations in the Ozarks.  Hence, the genetic potential is about the same throughout the state.  The soils are typically better in the northern portions of the state, excluding major river drainages.  Likewise, the ratio of production ag crops like corn and soybeans to cover is much more favorable to deer in the northern sections of Missouri.

However, folks tend to hunt less the further they live from their hunting property.  Another MAJOR consideration for any hunting property is the neighbors!  If they harvest immature bucks, then they are directly impacting your ability to produce mature bucks.  I actually rate neighbors more important than soils.  Fertilizer can compensate for bad soils.  However, it’s tough to compensate for neighbors that don’t share your deer management objectives.

Speaking of neighbors, there is some land that adjoins me for a mile that I hope either a non-hunter or hunter with the same deer management objectives as me purchases.  Are you interested in hunting big mature bucks in Taney County?

Growing Deer together (maybe really close together),

Grant

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Calendar of Deer Management Activities

Question

I would love to see an annual working calendar for The Proving Grounds.  I have enjoyed your website.

Lawrence

Lawrence,

That’s a good idea!  However, I’m hesitant to publish such a calendar as each year seems significantly different due to changing weather conditions.

For example, I like to plant the fall food plots during mid to late August or a minimum of 45 days before the average first frost date of October 14th.  However, it was so dry this year that we are still planting plots today!  The same is true for the timing of planting our spring plots, etc.

There are some constants such as the start of hunting and trapping season. However, most management activities are based on current conditions and not calendar dates.  That’s one reason why we publish a new episode of GrowingDeer.tv each week.  Our mission is to provide deer hunting and management information in a real time format.  I realize this doesn’t provide advanced notice for planning, but it is real world, real time information.  Thanks for watching!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Spreading Fertilizer and Seed

Question

In the Field Day 2010 episode at The Proving Grounds you mentioned that if the seed and fertilizer came in contact there is a reduced germination rate of the seed.  If I am limited to broadcasting the seed and fertilizer, what is your recommendation to get the seed into the ground and apply the fertilizer without the risk of the reduced germination rate?

Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

Seed and fertilizer can be mixed and spread successfully!  The key to success in this process is limiting the amount of time the fertilizer is in direct contact with the seed.  I’m comfortable with them being mixed for four hours or less.  I wouldn’t want the seed to be mixed with fertilizer for 24 hours.

I don’t think there are any problems with broadcasting the seed and fertilizer separately on the field.  There may be a few seeds that are in direct contact with the fertilizer as result of this method, but not enough to cause concern.  However, I usually mix fertilizer and seed if they are to be spread soon.  I prefer this over making two trips across the field to limit the amount of compaction, etc., that result from each trip across the plot with heavy equipment.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Dogs Disturbing Deer

Question

Dear Dr. Woods,

In my camera survey my shooter bucks on our lease have disappeared.  Several that were showing up 6 weeks ago have suddenly vanished.  I have kept my intrusion to a minimum but have noticed several dogs showing up on trail camera pictures.   I don’t know if the dogs have pressured them to another area or if the bucks have moved to other food.  I don’t have a clue where these dogs came from.  The lease is in soybeans, so I can’t imagine them moving for food.  Water can’t be the issue either.  Do you think it could be the dogs or is it likely something else?

Ronald

Ronald,

If your soybeans were still green (not starting to mature and turn yellow), then I doubt the bucks left in search of better/different food.  The date should be too early for acorns to be available.  From what you’ve shared, it sounds like the dogs (predators) could be the cause.  Mature bucks don’t like be harassed.  Dogs can certainly harass or even kill mature bucks.  I can’t tell you for certain that the bucks moved because of the dogs, but that’s certainly a possibility!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trail Cameras Use during the Season

Question

Dr. Woods,

I know from watching your videos you put out corn in front of your cameras for forming your “hit-list” and to see what you have on your property.  I’ve done that too.

As we transition into hunting season, can you review how you use your trail cameras differently than during the off season?

Thanks,

Eric

Eric,

I do change my trail camera use strategies significantly during the season.  I only us bait during the pre and post season camera surveys.  Out of these few weeks, I place my Reconyx units primarily on feeding food plots (larger food plots) where I can check/maintain the cameras with minimal disturbance.  I really like the time lapse option!  This allows me to monitor 200+ yards without spooking deer.  I simply program the unit to take an image every 15 minutes during the first three hours of daylight and the last three hours before dark.  This strategy may miss a deer running through the field.  However, that is not a patternable event.  I’m looking for deer that are repeat visitors to the same areas.  Images of deer at 100+ yards will be blurry.  However, the images taken by Reconyx units are so good that I can zoom in and tell if shooter bucks are using the field.  With this information, I can plan where to hunt.  I rarely hunt the fields, except during the rut when bucks are prowling looking for does.  However, by knowing when and where a mature buck is entering a field, I can predict where he is coming from and set up a stand/blind at a point favorable for me to approach.

Time lapse is one of my favorite features of a Reconyx trail camera!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Herbicide for Sunflowers, Milo, Millet, and Soybeans

Question

For the past couple of years I have drilled sunflowers and, in separate plots, a “wildlife mix” comprised of milo, millet and soybeans.  The area appeared to be weed-free at the time of planting (and was fertilized).  In each plot, both years, the weed infestation greatly limited the success of these plots.  Is there a post-emergent herbicide I can use in these plots?  How about using pendimethalin (Prowl) after the food plot species emerge in order to limit the germination of unwanted weeds?

Barry

Barry,

There are some newer varieties of sunflowers that are resistant to specific herbicides such as the Clearfield variety.  However, these varieties and the required herbicides are relatively expensive.  The University of Arkansas has a good publication about sunflower production including weed control.

Milo and Millet are both in the grass family.  Soybeans are in the legume family.  Mixing these crops really limits the herbicide choices.  For this reason, I’ve stopped mixing such crops and now only plant them separately so I can manage them for the maximum yield.  This includes being able to plant at the best time for each crop, using the appropriate fertilizer rates, and using the best herbicide option for the specific crop.

Usually the acreage dedicated to food plots is limited.  Therefore I need maximum yield from each crop, which requires crop-specific management.

Growing Deer (and crops) together,

Grant

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Deer Seasonal Home Range Selection

Question

Hello Grant,

My question is concerning how some bucks move their home ranges based on the season.  I have always wondered, do they have a set “migration route” every year, like caribou, or do they just kind of wander around until they get to someplace that’s familiar?

Tracy

Tracy,

In most areas, white-tailed deer don’t migrate.  They spend all year in the same general area.  The size of their home range decreases as the quality of the habitat increases.  Hence, the closer good sources of food, cover, and water occur, the smaller the home range of deer in that area.  I do work in areas where the accumulated snow levels exceed a deer’s ability to move and forage every year.  One example is in northern New York where deer have distinct summer and winter ranges.  These ranges can be 10+ miles apart!  Based on research using radio telemetry and other tools, it seems the same deer return to the same summer and winter ranges year after year.  The does apparently teach their fawns these migration patterns so it is a learned behavior.  This same behavior occurs across the northern portion of the whitetails’ range.  However, it is very rare to find deer that truly migrate south of the Snow Belt area.

Deer in the agricultural belt often have large annual home ranges and in some cases even shift their home ranges similar to deer in the Snow Belt.  This is caused by the shift in availability of food and cover related to the harvest of corn and soybean crops.  These areas are usually farmed year after year and once the crops are harvested, the deer move to areas of cover.  Like deer in the Snow Belt, the mini migrations in the agricultural areas tend to be passed on from mothers to their offspring.

Deer rarely “wander around” as they are very uncomfortable in areas where they don’t know the normal wind currents, and other factors that make them vulnerable to predation.  There are always a few exceptions, but in general mature deer are homebodies!  That’s one reason it’s tough to harvest mature deer as they know every object and scent within their home range.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Best Method to Approach Stand

Question

Hi Dr. Grant,

First off, you are a wonderful person.  I consider you a friend I’ve never meet.  You are so helpful.

My question is about getting to your tree stand.  Some people say riding a four wheeler near a stand doesn’t bother the deer.  My thoughts and previous actions were to always walk as much as possible.  Both actions have had their good luck and bad luck.  We got a “hunting” golf cart this year and are considering using it to get a little closer to some of our far stands.  What are your thoughts and what approach do you use?

Thanks always,

Kevin

Kevin,

I consider the ability to approach a stand as important as the location of a stand.  How I approach each stand totally depends on the lay of the land.  My objective is to approach the stand without alerting any deer.  I always attempt to approach with the wind in my favor.  This often means not taking the most direct route to the stand.  I sometimes have someone drop me off near a stand if this helps me avoid spooking deer.  I’m more worried about my scent alerting deer than the noise of an approaching vehicle.

I suspect your statement of “good luck and bad luck” is related to the unique conditions of each setup.  If the wind is in the favor of the hunter, it’s amazing how much activity (both scent and sound) can occur without spooking deer.  If the wind is not in the hunter’s favor, it’s very difficult to harvest a mature deer.

I realize I didn’t provide any specific answers.  Each setup tends to be so unique that specific rules fail.  However, the principle of limiting disturbance and minimizing the opportunity for deer to detect your scent (both while approaching the stand and while at the stand) works everywhere!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Population Estimates from Camera Survey

Question

I have done a deer survey with 3 cameras on my 320 acre farm.  I have 570 pictures of does, 43 fawns, and 102 bucks.  This was over the first 3 weeks of August.  How do I go about projecting the actual number of deer based on my camera survey?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

I have posted step-by-step instructions for conducting a herd survey.

The steps K through M provide detailed instructions of how to estimate the number of deer, the adult sex ratio, etc., based on the data you’ve collected.

Camera surveys are great tools!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Timing of Scrape Behavior

Question

Grant,

For the first time since I have been in management of land and hunting I had two scrapes appear from September 1st  to September 4th.  Then a third scrape appeared on September 5th.  They are all in the same general area of my land.  Do you have any thoughts on scrapes appearing this early in the season?

Allen

Allen,

Most bucks shed their velvet during early September.  An increase in testosterone hormone is related to the velvet shedding process.  The making and revisiting of scrapes also increases with the increase in testosterone.  So, bucks making scrapes during early September is probably a great reflection of an increasing buck population due to your management activities!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Stained Tarsal Glands

Question

This year while spring gobbler hunting (late April) in Ohio I noticed a few large deer together and I was able to see the start of antler growth.  I noticed that they all still had dark large tarsal staining.  I also saw some other large deer with no antler growth started but by their size they appeared to be bucks and they also exhibited large tarsal staining.  I also saw some does with last year’s young that had no tarsal staining.  Can you tell if a deer is a buck or a doe prior to antler growth by looking at last year’s tarsal staining?  Thank you in advance…

Richard

Richard,

Both bucks and does urinate on their tarsal glands (a behavior called rub urination).  Does and subordinate bucks tend to lick the urine from the tarsal glands and thus their tarsal glands don’t remain stained as long compared to a mature buck.  However, the presence of stained tarsal glands shouldn’t be used to determine gender.

Because does and subordinate bucks usually remove the stain from their tarsal glands, I usually associate deer with tarsal stains that continue all the way down to their toes to be mature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Raccoon Traps

Question

I’ve decided it is time to help out my turkeys!  Based on your predator control work of the last five years, what is the most effective trap for raccoons, box or foot-hold?  I saw both on your video (GDTV 10) with dog food as the bait.  Any other tips that you can share that were not on your video?  I am disadvantaged by being 1.75 hours from my land and thus I can only trap when I will be there the next day to check them.

Thanks!

Matt

Matt,

I’ve been very pleased with Lil Griz raccoon traps.  They are simple, safe, and effective.  I also use cage or box traps.  They work well also, but take much more space to haul around.  I’ve tried using sardines, fresh caught rough fish (suckers, etc.), marshmallows, etc., for bait.  I’ve had just as much success with inexpensive dry dog food as with any of the other baits I’ve tried.  The more odor the dog food has the better!  I also like dog food that is in very small-sized pieces.  This makes the raccoon work the trap more to remove all the bait, which increase the odds of the trigger being pulled.

Lil Griz traps are very quick to set.  For practical purposes, at least 20 Lil Griz traps can be stored in a five gallon bucket, which makes running a trap line easy if an ATV is used.

There are some new models out this year that look interesting, but I haven’t tried any of them yet.  I’ll probably try them this fall.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Same Buck Year to Year?

Question
Dear Dr. Grant,

As always, I appreciate your advice and help on questions. How old do you think this deer is? To me some parts of him say one thing and other parts another. Both pictures are the same deer with different views. This deer has been on our property for 3 years now and each year he has been the same size at 7 points. This year’s rack is still the same size but a touch different (still 7 points). He does look close enough that it has me wondering if it’s him or another deer younger.

Thanks,

Kevin

P.S. – This is an example on how good the camera is, thanks for the camera advice.


Kevin,

I zoomed in on both images and believe both pictures are of the same deer.  It is interesting how the early morning image makes the buck look older.  This is just one of those examples where factors such as day vs. night, buck’s orientation, etc., can make two images of the same buck look slightly different.  I always try to have at least two high quality images of a buck to identify it as a unique individual, especially during my annual camera surveys.

A great feature of the Reconyx units is that the image quality holds up very well even when the image is expanded several times.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crop Varieties for Pennsylvania

Question

Grant,

I love the show and all you do to help us be better managers of our land.  I want to start by letting you know I have 1 acre of clover and chicory and 1 1/2 acres of Eagle Seed beans already growing on my 17 acre property.  I have a 1 acre open grassy area waiting to be planted and a friend of mine is willing to give me some leftover seed.  I have a choice of brassicas, turnips from the Whitetail Institute or Pure Attraction from Whitetail Institute.  I like the variety of Pure Attraction (oats, winter peas, brassicas) but I do not hear you say much about using oats.  What do you think about planting oats and which one you would prefer to plant in central Pennsylvania?  My soil is ready to drop the seed in at the next chance of rain.  I already planted some Tall Tine Tubers a couple weeks back and they are looking good.  Also I would like to let you know the Eagle Seed Wildlife Managers Mix I planted is doing great even though I did not kill off all the weeds.  Next year I am going to plant a good bit more of them now that I know how wonderful they work (and hopefully I will kill off all the weeds).  That is why next year I think I am just planting beans, corn, wheat, and clover.

Thank you for all your hard work and sharing it with us.  I am going to try my best next year to make it out to The Proving Grounds for Field Day, everyone on the video looks like they had a great time (GDTV 40). Thank you and I hope you have an even more successful season.

Chad

Chad,

Thank you for the kind words and I look forward to meeting you at our next Field Day!  Both of the blends you described sound fine but I’d probably go with the blend that includes the oats, winter peas, and brassicas.  That blend should provide forage that is attractive to deer during the early, mid, and late season.  The different varieties of crops in that blend will mature at different times.  The varieties in the first blend may mature at the same time, which would limit the number of weeks deer are attracted to that plot.  I tend to like wheat a bit better than oats as wheat is more cold hardy and usually less expensive.  Both wheat and oats do a good job of transferring nutrients from the soil to a crop that is palatable and nutritious to deer.

I like your plan for next year!  It sounds like you have a great management program!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Keeping Mature Bucks on 210 Acres

Question

Hi Dr. Grant,

A tough, maybe simple question.  On our farm (210 acres) we’ve been managing for 15 years and things have really improved over the years.  I never thought I would be passing up 15″ to 17″ spread deer.  The problem is every year we’ll see a couple of nice deer during the summer but nothing to really get your blood boiling.  During the rut in the fall bucks will start showing up on our farm that we hadn’t seen during the summer, but some we saw from the previous fall. They’ll stay until January and then disappear, no sheds or anything.  It’s like they left.  I’ve joked that our farm was a doe farm.  They last few years things have gotten slightly better.  A good number of 1.5, 2.5, and a few 3.5 year old deer.  The doe numbers have gone down, the problem being we can’t seem to get “Mature/Monster” bucks to call our farm home.  They visit during the rut period, but never call it home.  We manage our woods with food plots and water holes while trying not to pressure them.  The one thing we are trying this year is pushing the sanctuaries on the farm.  Is there anything that you would recommend to help mature bucks call our farm home and not just to find girlfriends?

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

Deer require food, cover, and water.  If you provide those habitat elements and limit disturbance, mature bucks should use your property year round.  So, ask yourself what habitat element might be better on the neighboring properties.  Consider any habitat features or actions that might discourage mature bucks from spending more time on your property.  As bucks mature their home range tends to become smaller.  By providing the better food, cover, and water sources on your property than what’s available on the neighboring properties, some of the mature bucks you are observing should be using your place year round.

One last thought…finding sheds and observing mature bucks is very difficult.  Are you using trail cameras to study the deer using your property year round?  If not, give that a try and see what you learn.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Scarred this Fawn?

Question

Hey Grant,

I love the site and all you do to pass valuable information to us.


I have three pictures of a fawn that has some skin removed.  My buddy said the fawn got hit by a car.  I think it is some kind of disorder or maybe a predator got after it.  Can you look at the pictures and give us your opinion?  From the photos, the fawn looks like he/she is getting around with little problem.

Thanks for your help,

Toxie

Toxie,

I agree with your buddy, the hair loss pattern appears to be caused by the deer sliding on an abrasive surface, etc.  There are several possibilities that could have caused this including, but not limited to glancing a tree while moving fast or sliding on pavement while dodging a car.  No one will probably ever know what caused those scars.  The fawn appears healthy in the images and I suspect will regrow hair in those areas.  The hair may be a slightly different color and provide you with a way to identify that deer as it ages.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Too Late to Add Lime?

Question

Grant,

Your website has been very useful.  My property is in central Alabama and we have cleared a couple of new plots.  Our soil analysis shows we need to add lime.  Is it too late (early September) for this season?  Can you suggest a forage that will do well in this situation?

Thanks,

Mac

Mac,

Lime can be added anytime throughout the year.  However, most agricultural lime is ground to a size that requires several months for it all to react with the soil.  The smaller sized particles will react soon after it comes in contact with the soil.  Given that, I suggest spreading now and letting the crop receive some benefit of an improved pH this fall.  In addition the soil next spring should have the appropriate pH for excellent forage production.

Wheat is a relatively inexpensive forage that grows well in central Alabama and is very palatable to deer as long as it is appropriately fertilized.  If you enjoy turkey hunting, add some white clover that will come on strong next spring and attract turkeys as well as provide forage for deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Average First Frost in Northern Missouri

Question

When is the latest day to plant a fall food plot in north Missouri?

Mitchell

Mitchell,

The average first frost date in northern Missouri is October 10th.  I like to plant most food plot crops 45-60 days before the first frost.  The only negative to planting later is that the crops will produce less tonnage before the first frost.  Remember, October 10th is the average date of the first frost.  It could be weeks earlier or later.  I’ve planted during very late September in your area and produced enough forage to serve as an attractant for hunting season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Clover, Chicory, and Alfalfa

Question

Hey Grant,

I was just wondering if you can mix clover with alfalfa and chicory?  I have a plot with just chicory and clover but up here in northern Pennsylvania there is a lot of alfalfa planted.  I know alfalfa can help bucks put on the inches if managed properly.  Would this be a good blend and if so, what would the broadcast rates be?

Chris

Chris,

Alfalfa can be mixed with clover and chicory.  However, I’m not aware of an herbicide that won’t harm the either the clover or the chicory.  So keeping the plot weed free may require using an herbicide wiper, etc.

Alfalfa does require a bit more maintenance that both clover and chicory.  Most varieties of alfalfa need to be cut when they exceed 30% bloom to maintain them in a state of producing high quality forage.  In addition, most varieties of alfalfa don’t tolerate being shaded out by mowed forage as well as clover or chicory.  It might be best to plant alfalfa by itself so it can be managed to provide maximum yield and plant the clover and chicory in the other half of the plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cyst or Something Else?

Question

I live within smelling distance of Lamberts on 65 and J/CC in Ozark, Missouri.  I have two big bucks using my woodlot behind my house and have had a tube feeder and a camera out for about two months.  I have also had a doe with two fawns and a forked horn.  The forked horn has a very distinctive growth on his back.  It looks like someone put a big bottle cap on him because it is perfectly round and raised.  It is reddish in color.  Is this a cyst of some sort?

Tom

Tom,

Deer are usually extremely healthy.  However a small percentage of them do have illness or injuries.  The growth you described could be the result of an illness or an injury.  It’s tough to say without close inspection.  If you are blessed enough to continue watching that deer, it will be interesting to see if the growth goes away, enlarges, or remains the same size.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Early Season Scrapes

Question

Grant,

Yesterday I was working on my property and came across six fresh scrapes.  The moon phase is just leaving full and I know the hormones of the deer are beginning to change.  Is this the reason for the increased August scraping activity?

Also, are there are tricks to have a deer show their face during light other than the smell of estrus?  I have pictures of many shooter bucks coming past a stand.  However many of them are either right after shooting light or right before.

Thanks for your thoughts, and good hunting!

Ryan

Ryan,

Deer exhibit scrape behavior, especially marking the overhanging branch, throughout the year.  I suspect you were blessed enough to happen on scrapes that were more active than most this time of year.

I’m not aware of any “tricks” to encourage deer to be more active during the day.  I don’t think anyone fully understands why deer select when to be active.  There are gads of theories.  However, when these theories are tested by rigorous scientific study, all of them that I’m aware of, they are disproved.  I guess that’s what keeps the fun in hunting!

One thought to consider is that I rarely place trail cameras near my stand locations.  The process of checking the cameras seems to condition mature deer to avoid that area during daylight hours.  I tend to place my cameras in open areas where I expect mature deer to be at night.  I then learn when and where they are entering the field and attempt to think through where I should place my stand.  I wish to limit the disturbance in areas where I plan to hunt mature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using Pesticides on Food Plot Crops

Question

I’d really like your thoughts on the use of pesticides.  In north central Texas we have had a few significant years of grasshopper infestations.  This is my first year with plots and they consist simply of Iron Clay Cowpeas.  The peas have taken quite a hit from both grasshoppers and Armyworms.  I have sprayed pesticide both within and on the outside of the plot and it has made a significant difference to the point I truly believe it has saved the plants. However, I have concern about using poisons with a residual affect for fear of harming the deer or, maybe more importantly, turning the deer off to my foodplot because of the taste.  I’d love to get your thoughts on the use of pesticides or strategies for its use (i.e. spraying the outlying areas of the plot only) in situations where pests are so dense not doing something will mean your crops will not be successful.  My primary crops will be (spring) peas, some wild game sorghum, and (fall) winter wheat/oats.

Jamie

Jamie,

Your questions are very valid.  A portion of the answer would depend on what pesticide you are using.  However, most of the pesticides used today are very safe for critters except the targeted species.  Almost all commercial crops (except the limited organic farmers) are treated with herbicides and to a lesser extent pesticides.  Without these tools, the yield would be much, much less.  I’m not familiar with any reports of the current herbicides and pesticides products limiting damage to crops by deer (to many farmers dismay).

I always read the label on herbicides and pesticides I may need to use.  If you are following the instructions, you and the local deer herd will be fine.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Weed Wiper

Question

Have you used a weed wiper to treat weeds and grass in your clover plots?  Were you pleased with the results?

Ronald

Ronald,

I have not personally used a weed wiper.  I try to plant crops or blends of crops that allow weed control using a post-emergent herbicide.  A common blend that limits herbicide options is clover and chicory.  I really like chicory as a food plot crop.  However, it limits the choices of herbicides especially when blended with clover as is the normal practice.  Therefore, timely control of weeds in such a blend is very difficult.

Usually by the time weeds are significantly taller than the forage crop and a weed wiper can be used, the weeds have limited the yield of the desired crop by competing for moisture and nutrients.  Therefore it’s not a question of whether a weed wiper will work, but was the forage or blend planted the best option for maximum forage quality and production.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Optimum Time to Plant in Middle Georgia

Question

Grant,

I hunt in middle Georgia where I’m planting a fall blend (wheat, oats, winter, peas, rape & clover). When is the optimum time to drill?

Floyd

Floyd,

I like to plant at least 45 days before the first frost is expected and when there is ample soil moisture.  The first frost of the fall in middle Georgia is usually during the first or second week of November.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crops that Mature before Cold Weather

Question

Grant,

Is there anything I can plant right now that will mature enough to be worthy of a late season food plot?  I appreciate any information you may have for me.  Thanks in advance and God Bless!

Brian

Brian,

Most cool season crops should be planted at least 45 days before the first expected frost.  If the growing conditions are good, some crops will produce substantial amounts of forage in 30 days, and some crops will continue growing after the first frost if conditions remain favorable for forage production.

Wheat is a relatively inexpensive forage crop that usually continues producing forage until the temperatures remain too cold for forage production.  Deer readily consume wheat if it is fertilized appropriately.

I sometimes mix brassicas with wheat, especially in areas north of the Mason Dixon line.  Brassicas tend to grow fast and are extremely cold hardy.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Wildlife Degree at the University of Georgia

Question

Hey Dr. Grant,

I am attending school at Troy University in Troy, Alabama.  I am a freshman majoring in biology.  I am interested in the Wildlife Biology program at UGA.  Are you still involved in that program and if so are you teaching undergrads or only the masters program?

Thank You!

Dustin

Dustin,

If you plan to work as a wildlife biologist, especially if you wish to work with game species, then you would benefit from switching to a school that has a wildlife biology or wildlife management program.  The program at the University of Georgia has a great track record of their grads getting a job as a wildlife biologist.

I don’t teach any classes at the University of Georgia.  I have been blessed to work with some undergrad and graduate students there as an advisor.  At this point in my career, I strongly prefer field work to the classroom.  I enjoy leading field trips for wildlife classes where the students can actually see, touch, and smell the habitat and critters they’ve been studying in the classroom.

No matter where you attend school, remember that communication skills are critical to being a good wildlife biologist.  Your entire career will succeed or fail on how well you communicate your knowledge with your fellow wildlife biologists and resource users.  Make sure your oral and written communication skills are fine tuned!

Keep focused and seek chances to get experience.  Ask practicing wildlife biologists if you can assist with their field work.  Do an internship every summer if you can.  Attempt to work in different geographic areas so you can see different habitats and techniques.  Some internships don’t pay much now, but if you work hard they can pay great dividends throughout the remainder of your career.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Availability of Antler Dirt in Pennsylvania

Question

I am very interested in using the Antler Dirt product because I am currently using gas line right-of-ways as my food plot locations.  The lines were laid and the soil was dug up, and then filled in without the topsoil being separated before being put back on top.  I would really like to build the soil back up so that I can have successful plots in the future.  I live in southwestern Pennsylvania.  Do they have any locations close to here?  Is it even possible to get Antler Dirt in this area?  If you could please let me know if this is possible and ANY tips on building my soil quickly I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks,

Ian

Ian,

I’m not aware of any Antler Dirt franchises in Pennsylvania and I expect the shipping cost would be prohibitive.  However, I encourage you to contact the Antler Dirt team and receive current accurate information.  Their contact information is on the Antler Dirt website.

Using the liquid Antler Dirt is a great option to add “life” back to soil.  The liquid is shippable (gallons per acre of liquid compared to a ton + per acre of the compost) and contains the same beneficial life (microbes) that is in their compost product.  Liquid Antler Dirt doesn’t have the advantage of adding the organic matter and some of the other benefits of the Antler Dirt compost.  With that said, it would be a great start to adding natural and beneficial life back to abused soil.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Safety of Consuming Deer that Browsed Herbicide Treated Forage

Question

Grant,

I really look forward to GrowingDeer.tv each week.  Without exception the topics you cover are issues I am either currently dealing with or have unsuccessfully dealt with in the past.  Your most recent episode (GDTV 38) mentions using Pursuit or Raptor to manage weeds in clover which brings up an issue I have always been concerned with.  Both of these products have “NO Graze” restrictions as do many other herbicides that I often use on my food plots.  Should I be concerned eating the venison from harvested deer that have used fields with no graze herbicide applied?  Also, would the same be true for herbicides that have restrictions regarding lactating animals.

Kevin

Kevin,

Your question is very valid and I don’t know of any research on the subject.  I will share that almost every deer harvested near a commercial ag field has most likely consumed forage and/or grain that was treated with one or multiple herbicides.  Even though free-ranging deer may have consumed forage that has been treated with herbicide, I suspect it is still healthier than some of the meat from domestic stock that has been given many chemicals to promote growth and maintain their health.  Tracy, our two girls, and I consume about 10 deer annually.  If you find research results related to your question, please share the findings with me.

Growing (and consuming) Deer together,

Grant

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Scent Control Spray

Question

Hey Dr. Grant,

For scent control I use no-scent sprays to neutralize my scent for my clothing but I have noticed that some sprays have an odor to them.  If I can smell that odor wouldn’t that alarm a deer?  Do you even use them yourself?  Is it a waste of money (I spend a lot of money each year on the no-scent sprays!)?

Thanks for your help!

Brent

Brent,

Scent control is an extremely popular subject.  There are probably as many dollars spent marketing scent control products as other categories in the deer hunting market.  I think part of the problem for hunters trying to decide which products to use is the lack of scientific testing associated with this category.  Another factor is that different products probably react differently with the different body chemistries of hunters.  No doubt some hunters create more body odor than others.  Because of the anti-rejection medications I take daily as a result of my kidney transplant, I know I emit very foreign odors.

With all that said, I haven’t tried any product to date that I believe eliminated, totally contained, or covered my scent.  I am currently experimenting with some new products.  I’m using my dog (lab being trained to find antlers) and treated and untreated treats to test these products.  I’m early on in this research and if I find anything that seems to work better than average, I’ll let the GrowingDeer.tv viewers know.

No matter what I find, I’ll continue placing and selecting stands/blinds that allow me to hunt with the wind in my face.  The scent control products will be used to help with swirling and/or shifting winds.

Growing (and hunting) Deer together,

Grant

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When do Does Begin Breeding?

Question

I heard that a young doe can’t breed for a couples years.  At what age can a doe first breed?

David

David,

Does generally reach puberty when they weigh about 70 pounds (more or less depending on the area).  In areas with commercial soybean and corn production, it’s common for 30% or more of the fawns (does born early that year) to breed during the late fall.  It is possible that a doe might not breed until she is two years old, but only if the habitat quality is very poor and her development is limited due to poor nutrition.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Delay Used for Time Lapse on Trail Cameras

Question

On episode 39 (GDTV 39) at the end of the segment you were talking about time lapse to pattern where deer were coming in and out and the times.  You mentioned you set your time lapse to every 15 minutes.  Four pictures an hour seems low, did you mean 15 seconds?

Phil

Phil,

I do use 5 – 15 minutes delays when using the time lapse feature on my Reconyx trail cameras.  This length of delay will certainly miss a deer that runs or even rapidly walks across a food plot or the area being monitored.  However, my mission when using the time lapse feature is to pattern deer that are using the same area repeatedly.  Deer that are entering a plot to forage usually remain in the area for several minutes.  The length of the delay used is based on a trade-off of how many images I have time to review, expected battery life, memory space, etc.  From experience, I’ve found that 5-15 minute delays usually capture the data I’m seeking.  The more days I expect will pass before I check the camera again the longer I make the delay so I won’t have as many images to review.  Remember that with a Reconyx unit, the motion sensor is still active when in time lapse mode.  Therefore any deer/people/turkeys/etc. that passes within the distance monitored by the motion/heat sensor will also trigger the camera in addition to the images taken due to the time lapse feature.   I consider this a very important use of trail cameras!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Monitoring the Food/Deer Ratio

Question

Do I have enough food for my deer?  I own 276 acres in east Texas.  We are bordered on one side by a 3200 acre timber company lease with about 20 hunters.  The other 3 sides receive very little pressure.  I have 134 acres in woods consisting mainly of Oak trees and Yaupon.  The other 140 acres is in pasture land.  I have 32 acres in Ball Clover and Ryegrass and plant another 10 acres in Forage Oats and Chicory.  I also have 4 protein stations on the ranch.  I have 4 ponds ranging from 1/4 to 3 acres in size.  There are thick areas that we do not hunt or even venture into near drainages to provide sanctuary areas.  What else can I do to improve the land for deer?

Steed

Steed,

Sounds like you have a great property and solid deer management program in place.  The most practical method (and one of the least expensive) is to monitor the forage quantity/deer herd density ratios by using utilization cages.  I construct utilization cages by simply using a 10’ long piece of 4’ tall web wire (often called hog wire) and attaching both ends.  This creates approximately a 3’ cylinder of web wire.  Stake the utilization cage solidly to the ground.  It’s best to place the cage in the plot just after a crop is planted so the placement isn’t biased by forage height, color, etc.

As the forage grows, simply monitor the height of the forage inside the cage compared to outside the cage where the deer can forage.  Depending on the crop, the forage shouldn’t get more than twice as tall inside compared to outside the cage.  If the forage is the same height inside and out of the cage, then deer are not consuming much of the forage.  If the forage is much less tall outside than inside, there are more deer than quality forage in the area.

It seems as if you are providing quality food, cover, and water.  This is the foundation of a good habitat management plan.  Use utilization cages and other techniques to make sure you are providing enough of each of the critical habitat elements.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant During Late August

Question

Hi Dr. Woods,

I met you at Bass Pro in Olathe this year and I wanted to thank you for the extra time you spent with us there.  I have 30 acres of woods and about a 1/2 acre clearing that I haven’t planted anything in.  Could you suggest something to plant this late in the year that could still provide some good hunting?

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

I enjoyed our visit at Bass Pro!  Wheat (especially forage varieties) is a fine food plot crop.  It readily transfers available nutrients from the soil to forage that deer readily consume.  Extra nitrogen tends to make wheat more attractive to deer (within reason – an extra 50 pounds per acre is usually good – an extra 300 pounds per acre is not good!).  Wheat is easy to plant either by using a no-till drill or broadcasting.  Brassicas, clover, etc, can be added to create a blend.  I like to add some clover in areas where I will also be turkey hunting as the clover will come on strong during the spring.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Stage of Antler Growth

Question

It is August 8th, how much more antler growth should I expect before they shed their velvet here in southern Missouri?

Anthony

Anthony,

Antlers should continue growing after August 8th in southern Missouri.  How long they grow depends on each individual buck, but probably an average of a week or two.  However, the current severe drought conditions in southern Missouri have limited the antler growth potential this year.  The growing conditions are so poor that plants are not nearly as productive or nutritious as usual.  Therefore the local deer herd isn’t receiving quality nutrition from native or cultivated forage.  I expect this year the average antler size will be smaller than average in the neighborhood because the antlers stopped growing earlier than normal.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do Deer Prefer NWSG or Woody Cover?

Question

Dr. Woods,

Is there any research to show any difference in which might be better at holding mature bucks: NWSG such as switchgrass versus early successional habitat?

Eric

Eric,

I’m not aware of any research that examined if deer prefer using NWSG’s or early successional habitat (I assume you are talking about woody species).  However, the two are rarely grown in the same area as most woody early successional habitat is in the forestry belt and NWSG’s are in the Ag belt.  With that said, I know deer readily use NWSG’s habitat.  I prefer NWSG’s habitat as it is easier to manage and maintain as productive cover than woody regeneration.  NWSG habitat is always easier to hunt.  Where practical, I’d strongly prefer to establish, hunt, and maintain the NWSG over woody early succession habitat.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Wheat for Food Plots in Northern New York

Question

Hello Grant,

Is winter wheat/rye a good choice for a planting in Hopkinton, New York, close to your old playground, Weller Mountain, this time of the year?  It is very sandy soil with lots of pine.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve,

I had some great days with the guys at Weller Mountain!  Wow, that’s been almost 20 years ago.  I strongly prefer wheat more than rye grain.  Wheat is usually less expensive, usually more palatable to deer, and pending on the variety just as cold hardy.  I never plant rye grass (compared to rye grain) as rye grass is very difficult and expensive to remove from a plot and becomes non-palatable to deer long before wheat does.  Wheat that is appropriately fertilized is very palatable and nutritious to deer during the fall, winter and early spring.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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No-till Option in East Texas

Question

Mr. Grant,

I’m putting in a winter food plot in East Texas.  I was thinking about adding some clovers but come next fall I would have to till them up for fall planting.  Is there a different way to plant for fall next year?

Vance

Vance,

I’ve worked a lot in East Texas – especially northeastern Texas.  I typically no-till or spray and no-till fall crops (primarily wheat) into existing clover stands.  Unless there has been an unusual amount of moisture, clover is usually not very lush this time of year.  The reduced forage provides a great environment for a no-till drill.  The wheat will come on strong this fall (if fertilized correctly) and the clover will grow in the shade of the wheat the following spring.  The wheat can be mowed and the clover will remain productive if fertilized and protected from weeds.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant on 20 Acres

Question

Dr. Grant,

I own a small property of approximately 20 acres and have been planting for the past 3 years.  I am limited to what I can plant, only broadcast seeds.  I noticed you only plant corn, soybean, clover and wheat.  I have been planting things like Biologic’s Full Draw and Maximum.  My deer sightings aren’t very good.  What should I plant this fall?  My first year planting I tried Biologic Clover but had no luck.  How much lime and fertilizer do I need to plant clover?  My soil is close to a 7 pH.

Caleb

 

Caleb,

When in doubt, I always plant wheat.  Wheat grows almost anywhere and deer readily consume it during the fall when it is appropriately fertilized.  I always recommend a soil test as I don’t know how many nutrients are readily available in your food plots.  I have the soil analyzed in my plots every year.  The nutrients available in each plot can be significantly different and properly fertilized forage is much more palatable to deer than crops that don’t have the appropriate nutrients.

Make sure to use a utilization cage so you can compare how the crops are growing versus how much of the crop is being consumed.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do I Allow Wheat to Mature?

Question

Grant,

Do you use winter wheat as just a green fall and spring crop or do you let it mature and develop seed heads for the deer to eat?  I have several acres of beans, corn, and clover but at this time of year and the first few weeks of archery season the deer love these seed heads and choose it over everything else.

James

James,

If you have enough food plot real estate to provide ample quality forage for the local herd elsewhere while the wheat is between the forage and seed stage, then leaving it standing is a good plan.

Deer rarely consume wheat after it matures to the stem stage and before the seeds are produced.  Given this and the limited amount of food plot acreage I have, I need to kill the wheat once it matures past the forage stage and plant a crop like soybeans that will provide forage through the early antler and fawn growing months.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When Will Eagle Beans Make Pods in Illinois?

Question

I planted about 10 acres of Long Fellow Eagle Seed forage beans this year in our foods plots.  My farm is about 500 acres and last year our beans were browsed so heavily that we ran out of food by December.  I love hunting beans late season.  We have gotten lots of rain this year and the beans look amazing!  They are huge and it’s hard to even see much browse pressure because of all the foliage.  I am beginning to worry though because it is the middle of August and I still don’t have any pods growing.  I live in central Illinois and being a category 7 bean I am just scared that we might not get any pods before the first frost.  Although the forage and late green is great, I really need the beans more than anything to get all of our deer through the winter.  Will we get beans in time?  They have started to flower but daylight is getting shorter.  Just wondering what you saw in the past and what you do at The Proving Grounds?

Justin

Justin,

The planting date is a factor.  That is to say that soybeans planted earlier will flower earlier.  If the Eagle Seed forage soybeans you planted are flowering now, then they are most likely making small pods lower on the plant.  I think you will be fine given the soybeans have flowers and there is a month and a half before the first average frost date in your area (sometime around October 1st).

Given the latitude where you plant you might consider using the Wildlife Managers Mix next year.  This blend has group 4.3, 5.5, 7, and 8 soybeans.  Soybeans are odd in that if the same variety is planted May 1 and June 1, there may only be one week difference in maturity.  However, there are still advantages in planting early.  I plant when the soil temperature is 62 degrees at 9 AM.  This is about the coolest time of the day for soil temperatures.  At this temperature, soybeans usually germinate and grow rapidly if there is an appropriate amount of soil moisture.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Standing Corn

Question

Hello Grant,

I have many acres to hunt, but most of them consist of commodity crops.  When beans are around my stand (every other year) I see many deer, but when corn is planted, I don’t see many deer until the corn is off.  I’m sure they are in the corn, but what can I do to increase sightings and get on the trail of a mature buck other than waiting for the rut?  Is there any way to draw them out of the corn or locate them?

Thanks,

Adam

Adam,

Hunting standing corn can be very frustrating.  At certain times of year it seems deer literally remain in the corn 24/7.  However, corn is very dry during the fall.  Deer must have water, so they often leave the corn sanctuary to get water.  If the area where you hunt is dry (no standing water in the corn field), then consider locating and scouting the closest source of water.

If you have access to hunting multiple corn fields, consider using the spot and stalk technique to hunt one of the fields.  This is one of my favorite hunting techniques.  During days when the wind is blowing, simply walk into the wind and enter the field on the downwind side.  Cross winds allow you to work the field section by section.  Remember to move extremely slowly when using this technique.  The success of this technique depends on the hunter seeing the deer before the deer detects the hunter.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Brassicas as a Food Plot Choice

Question

Grant,

I read an article awhile back that stated “BE AWARE OF BRASSICA TOXICITY – ANEMIA!”  It gave a long list of poor conditions it may give your deer herd when feeding on brassicas.  Is there any truth to this?

Tom

Tom,

I’m not aware of any danger, loss of potential, etc., from free-ranging deer consuming brassicas.  I would be worried about deer eating only brassicas, just like I would be worried about deer only eating clover, wheat, etc.

You might check to see if what you read is an “article” or an advertisement that looks like an article.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Blend for Fall

Question

Grant,

Thanks for the great presentation at the QDMA meeting in Louisville.

I am in my first year of a 140 acre track in Southern Indiana.  I failed miserably in trying to plant popular “mixes” in ground that has not been worked forever…old fescue.  The ragweed loved the new lime and fertilizer!  Since the seed was a blend there was no one herbicide that I could use effectively.

I now know that next year I will plant a single seed (like an Eagle Seed bean) that I can work with roundup to get beyond the weeds.  I have these 3 plots that I would like to “work” yet this fall and get something growing that I will then replace with the bean plots late next spring.  Any suggestions on what would be a good plot to provide some browse for deer or turkey and clean the plots up in preparation for the beans?  Winter wheat, oats?

Thanks for all,

John

John,

I will be planting wheat or a blend of wheat and clover this fall.  Wheat is relatively inexpensive (abnormally high this year – about $18 per bag), is easy to grow, and readily transfers nutrients to deer.  I strongly recommend having the soil analyzed and adding the appropriate nutrients.  I think some food plot farmers skip this step because they believe wheat to be simple or common.  No forage crop can transfer nutrients to deer unless the nutrients are available.  I add a bit of extra nitrogen as wheat readily uses nitrogen and deer seem to easily sense where I added extra nitrogen to the wheat (near my stand).  It is easy to add clover to wheat when planting.  The clover won’t produce much tonnage during the first fall, but will usually provide a substantial amount of quality forage in the spring.  Deer and turkey will readily consume the clover at that time of year, typically before other forage crops are productive.

The one negative to adding clover is that it is naturally very resistant to glyphosate.  If you plan to no-till soybeans (my favorite plan in most situations) into the wheat the following spring as soon as the soil temperature is 62 degrees (at 9 AM at about 2” deep), then simply spraying the wheat/clover blend to prepare the field with glyphosate will leave some clover alive which will be competition to the young soybeans.  However, there are worse problems to have because the beans normally shade out the clover within a few weeks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Number of Cameras to use for Survey

Question

I hunt on 130 acres that I want to do a camera survey on.  Can I use more than one camera on the property?  I have heard one camera for every one hundred acres.  Will this affect the results if I do use more than one camera?

Thanks,

Wade

Wade,

The accuracy of surveys almost always increases when the number of acres monitored per camera decreases.  The key to increasing the accuracy (capturing every deer using the property) is to limit the amount of disturbance when checking cameras.  The two drawbacks of using more cameras per the same unit of area are (1) that this creates more disturbances and (2) there are more images to analyze.

I’ll take those trade-offs for the benefit of having more accurate results!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Buck Activity When it’s Hot

Question

I was seeing 6-8 different 8 point or better bucks a month ago and all of a sudden I hardly see one every other day or two.  Could it be the 95-100 degree heat is keeping the bucks close to a water source, which is about 500yds away? It’s getting close to bow season and I am worried. Any ideas??

Marc

Marc,

The temperatures at The Proving Grounds have been equally high.  I’m getting gads of images of mature bucks eating soybeans, but all at night – late night.  If season was open now, I wouldn’t be hunting the plots at my place due to the lack of mature bucks using them during daytime.  If it’s as dry at your place as it is at mine, you should consider scouting the water source.  If it doesn’t rain soon at my place, I’ll be hanging some stands and moving blinds to capitalize on that limited resource.  I always want to be hunting a limited resource.  Currently, water is the limiting resource at my place.

Even with that much of the puzzle figured out, many bucks tend to change their patterns drastically once velvet shedding begins.  The whitetail puzzle is never solved – thank goodness!  That’s what makes it fun!!

If you have permission to hunt near the water source mentioned, I’d place a trail camera there and see if mature bucks are using that area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Are Deer Aware of Trail Cameras?

Question

Grant,

I have been using cameras for years and I am currently a Reconyx fan.  I am sure you are aware that the deer are aware of the cameras.  Aside from the flash issues, they can hear the camera operating.  That being said, what are your thoughts on camera location in regard to hunting stands?  Do you place your cameras in close proximity to where you will be sitting or standing?

Thanks,

Shep

Shep,

I’m much more concerned with deer responding negatively to my presence than deer responding negatively to the flash or any sounds created by a Reconyx trail camera.  I’m currently using units that range from six years old to the current models and I rarely get an image of a deer reacting negatively to the trail camera.  (I just completed a camera survey at The Proving Grounds that included 30,000+ images and I’m not aware of one that showed a deer in the spooked position).

However, this doesn’t account for deer that never made it to the camera because of my scent, etc.  Hence, during hunting season I rarely place a camera close to a stand.  I don’t wish to condition deer to avoid the area because I’m frequently checking the trail camera.  I tend to place my trail cameras in areas where I can use the time lapse feature to monitor large areas that deer frequent at night.  I then connect the dots and figure out where the mature bucks are traveling during hunting hours.  The combination of using the time lapse feature and M.D.E. (Minimal Disturbance Entry) to pattern and approach where mature bucks are active during daylight hours is a great combination!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating a Water Source

Question

Grant,

During your seminar last week at Bass Pro you gave me the idea of putting a water tank at my food plot to keep the deer down in that location in the summertime.  Currently they have to travel 3/4 of a mile to our pond.  Long term I would like to build a pond there but a water tank is a good short term option. Is there any additional risk for transferring disease by using a water tank? I will be hauling this water in from a rural water system.  Are there any risks with using treated water? Just want to be sure I’m attacking the problem correctly without creating additional ones.

Thanks!

Alan

Alan,

Thanks for attending the seminar at Bass Pro!  I’m not aware of any problems with deer consuming water treated for human consumption.  Although I have never researched this, I am aware that deer at several research facilities and universities consume treated water.

Anything that concentrates deer in close proximity increases their chances of contacting a disease from an infected deer.  However, deer congregate at sources of water, food, etc., in the wild with very few problems.  I doubt the deer at your water source will be exposed to anything that they are not exposed to at the existing pond.

It sounds to me that you are working to improve the local habitat and reduce the stress of the local deer and other wildlife populations.  Keep up the good work!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Are Antlers Finished Growing?

Question

Will bucks add any more points or mass to their antlers in the coming weeks, or is what I see now what I’m going to get this winter?

William

William,

Most bucks are about finished growing their antlers by mid August.  However, antler growth patterns are about as individual as most juvenile growth patterns.  Some bucks show rapid antler growth early on, some bucks’ antlers grow at about the same rate throughout the growing season and some add a bunch of inches just before they shed their velvet.  A few bucks may add several inches this time of year, but most won’t add many inches from now until they shed velvet.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Fawns Under Represented in Camera Survey

Question

I have noticed over the years in doing my annual late summer camera surveys that I rarely get pictures of fawns.  I understand that fawns are not eating the corn/mineral licks at this age and also that the mothers do not want to bring their young to bait because of the increased risk of predation.  Is there any sort of “magic formula” for calculating fawn recruitment during a late summer camera survey?

Nathan

Nathan,

You are correct that when bucks are still in full velvet most fawns are apparently too young to follow the doe and/or the doe doesn’t want to bring them around mature bucks.  However, the fact that bucks are bunched up and tolerant of each other makes it a great time of year to survey bucks.

There are trade-offs to doing a camera survey during any time of year.  I prefer doing them during August as great data on bucks can be obtained, as well as enough data on does and fawns for management purposes.  Some folks do attempt to estimate the number of fawns by making assumptions, etc.  I believe such estimates are very prone to providing erroneous information.  I’m not aware of any “magic formula” that is accurate enough to justify using.  I think the best results can be achieved by replicating the survey annually.  This procedure will most likely provide accurate trends.

Accurate trends, such as, are there more does and fawns than during the previous year are typically more important for management purposes than knowing the exact number of does and fawns.  By the way, the number of yearling bucks (which are relatively easy to identify) is an excellent indicator of fawn recruitment during the previous year.

If you desire or need a more accurate count of fawns, they typically readily respond to bait during January and/or February.  In fact surveys this time of year are usually biased toward showing a better representation of does and fawns and under representing bucks.  Remember, surveys are best at providing trend data.  It’s almost impossible to census (count every individual) a free-ranging deer herd.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Limited Resources

Question

I hunt in a no baiting area of the northern lower peninsula of Michigan.  We have some tough winters and the population appears to be generally low with us seeing deer about once in every four hunts.  The only concentrated food source is an oak ridge that runs along the road through the park.  That ridge is littered with sign, prints, rubs the size of your thigh, scrapes as big as cars, etc.  There appears to be more sign than appropriate for the number of deer around.  Cedar and pine thickets are nearby, but most of the area is dogwood and thick.  I’m curious what you would focus on when the deer are all spread out, seemingly constantly on the move and difficult to pattern.

Jeremy

Jeremy,

I grew up bow hunting in the Ozark Mountains.  The habitat quality was very poor and deer populations were very low.  I would go weeks without seeing a deer and years without a shot opportunity.  I learned that the only way to see fresh deer sign and deer on a regular basis was to hunt near necessary resources that were limited in distribution.  This meant hunting ponds during periods of drought, active scrapes (these stands were usually only good for a hunt or two), acorns when the crop was sparse and I could locate a white oak tree that produced acorns, etc.

As I’ve matured as a hunter and am able to hunt areas with much higher deer populations, I still prefer to hunt resources that deer need that are limited in distribution.  As a manager, I develop small ponds, food plots, areas of cover, etc., to create hunting locations that may provide the limited resource depending on the year or time of year.  For example, currently is it extremely dry at The Proving Grounds.  If it doesn’t rain a bunch before season begins, the small ponds I’ve created will be great hunting locations.  During periods of normal or excessive precipitation, there are enough springs, puddles, etc., that deer don’t visit the ponds on a regular basis.

Hunting limited resources is a very successful technique!

Growing Deer together,

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Images of Mature Bucks

Question

Hi Grant,

Thank you for all the help in the past.  Is there anything that can help to a get a picture of the mature bucks on properties?  The mature bucks seem impossible to get a picture of, let alone kill them.  Where I live, the big ones don’t seem to come to corn and other types of mineral/feed spots.  They seem like they know the camera is there and don’t walk by it.  It may sound crazy, but I believe they have figured out cameras too!

Kevin

Kevin,

Deer readily become conditioned to respond to positive experiences by repeating them or negative experiences by avoiding them.  If they have a negative experience at a bait station during the day, they typically will limit their visits to occur during the night.  If they have a negative experience at a bait station during the night, they may well avoid bait stations for some time.  Some deer respond negatively to the flash of trail cameras, especially the units with white flash.  I use Reconyx units with the covert flash and get gads of images of the mature bucks at my place week after week and literally year after year.

It is certainly possible that some of the mature bucks at your place had a negative experience with predators (two and/or four legged) near bait stations and are now avoiding them.  There are many disturbances that will cause deer to avoid an area.

I recommend being as scent free as possible and moving a camera to a new bait station, pond, food plot, etc., where the camera can be placed with minimal disturbance and scent deposit.  Leave it alone for at least two weeks.  If you get images of mature bucks, you will know they were conditioned to avoid the existing camera stations for some reason.

One rule of deer management (and life in general) is not do the same thing and expect different results.  Change up your approach and see what happens.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Maintaining Cover for Deer

Question

Dr. Grant,

I live in Orangeburg County, South Carolina where we recently purchased 90 acres. 45 acres are planted in corn and 45 acres are 2 year cutover with great bedding and early succession browse. My plans are either to establish longleaf or continue to manage the cutover for bedding and browse.  If I continue to burn the cutover, will that be enough to maintain this early succession habitat, or would you recommend planting some of the property in longleaf, say 25 acres?  I really have enjoyed using your website.  It is too often people are concerned with hunting and not managing.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark,

I would recommend establishing a longleaf stand in the cutover.  If the appropriate herbicides are applied during the site preparation they will actually encourage the growth of many native species that are beneficial for deer.  These include, but are not limited to, several herbicides in the imazapyr family.  In addition, it is usually much easier to hunt pine stands, as long as the spacing is at least 10’ x 10’, than a cutover that is not managed.  Cutovers in your area typically are composed of 70+% sweetgum which is of very limited value to wildlife and won’t provide much of an economic return in the future.  A longleaf pine stand that is established and managed will provide some quality food, excellent cover, and excellent hunting opportunities for decades to come, while providing a source of income when the stand is thinned or by adding value to the property.  In addition, I think a well designed longleaf stand is much more aesthetically pleasing than most cutovers.

Thanks for the kind words and for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  By the way, I’ve worked a lot in the Orangeburg area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crop for South Arkansas

Question

What is the best thing to plant to attract deer for bow season?  I have 1000 acres in south Arkansas.  My plot is 40 yards wide by 60 yards long.  I just disked it up today.  Should I put an electric fence around it to let it grow?  My season opens October 1st.  Oh, by the way, don’t hold it against me but I grew up with Waco Hale, he is a good friend of mine!

Jared

Jared,

Waco’s a great guy and tremendous shot with a bow.  What crop to plant depends on when you wish to attract deer as different crops become palatable at different stages of maturity.  Soybeans planted during the early fall are a fabulous deer attractant until it frosts.  Deer readily consume young soybeans as much as any forage crop that I’ve tried.  If you wish to hunt the early and late season, mixing soybeans and wheat is a good blend.  That’s what I’m planting this fall.  Deer will consume the soybeans rapidly, and then move to the wheat later in the season.  Usually, soybeans can be purchased relatively inexpensively this time of year as seed dealers don’t wish to hold them through the winter.  Any variety of soybeans will work as they will be killed by the first frost.  If you plan to hunt turkeys the following spring, it’s a good idea to add some clover.  Clover won’t produce much tonnage the first fall it is planted, but if adequate moisture and fertilizer is available, it will come on strong the following spring and is usually a turkey magnet!

If you plant several weeks before you plan to hunt it may be necessary to use a Gallagher Food Plot Protection System to allow the soybeans to grow and not be totally consumed by deer as soon as they germinate.  The Gallagher system is also a great hunting tool as you can easily create a bottleneck for stand placement just like hunting holes in existing fences – a technique that’s been successfully used by generations of hunters.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Improve Herd Quality on Lease in Florida

Question

I have a 2100 acre hunting lease in northeast Florida.  This area can be brutal to hunt during the archery season.  We maintain year round feeders and this year we started some food plots and defined some off limits areas for the does.  For two years now, this being year 3, we have maintained the beginnings of a QDM program by instituting size limits.  I have had my cameras out for a few months and I have a large quantity of does and fawns on camera while others are getting some really nice bucks.  What would be the best method of sustaining our deer population and increasing their size?  I’ve been in touch with the local forestry office but since I lease the land from a large timber company I don’t think I’ll get the support for controlled burns and so on.  Can you help?

Bill

Bill,

It sounds as if you have a good deer management program underway!  I hope you have some “off limits areas” for bucks also.  Sanctuaries area a tremendous tool to improve both the hunting opportunities and herd’s quality.

It is likely that you will accomplish your buck management goals quicker if you use age limits rather than size limits.  There is usually a wide range of antler size for each age class.  Therefore, size limits usually result in the bucks with the largest antlers of the age class you hope to protect being eligible for harvest.

Trigger finger management (the appropriate buck and doe harvest for your management objective) paired with increasing the quantity of quality forage is the recipe for improving the herd quality at your lease.  This usually means increasing the productivity of existing food plots and adding additional food plots.  Improvements can be made in the quantity and quality of native forage, but management actions that would promote such improvements may be in conflict with the landowner’s objective.  If that’s the case, then you seem limited to increasing the quantity and quality of the food plot program and/or increasing the quantity and quality of the supplemental feeding program.  I caution you to ensure the supplemental feeding program is administered correctly or it can cause more stress instead of providing benefits to the deer and turkey population.

You need to do a detailed analysis of your deer management goals and the possible and practical management actions necessary to meet those goals.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Many Acres of Food Plots

Question

Hey Grant,

Thanks for the recent videos on herd monitoring using trail camera pictures (GDTV 35).  I applied your formula for figuring the deer herd using a property and have some very interesting results.  I’d love to get your feedback on what changes we need to make to ensure a better balance in our herd.

We have…
In Hickman County, Tennessee, 75 acres with 2.3 acres of food plots, 15 acres with 4 year old pine and the remaining in mature hardwoods.  There is severe over browsing on anything we plant and understory browse is nonexistent (less than 4″ tall) in the hardwoods.

Our deer counts are…
Unique bucks 8
Does 32
Fawns 1

We experienced a severe flash flood of 12″ in a few hours on May 5th.  Could this affect the fawn survival, thus accounting for the low fawn count?

We are trying to figure out what acreage we need in food plots and a target doe harvest for this year.

Thanks for your help!

Walter

Walter,

There probably weren’t many fawns on the ground by May 5th in your area.  I think there’s a better chance that the fawns were not quit mature enough to be following their mothers during your survey.  With that said, predators, disease, parasites, etc., can all remove a significant number of fawns shortly after they are born.

The four year old pine stand at your property is likely providing less quality forage each year, so that’s a declining food source.  Likewise, the mature hardwoods, if they have a closed canopy provide very little quality forage annually.  No forage is productive enough to provide quality browse for 40+ deer when the planting is limited to 2.3 acres. The total quality forage production on your property probably won’t adequately feed 40+ deer.

An easy method to confirm this is by using utilization cages to monitor the herd’s density with the habitat’s capacity to produce quality browse.  If there’s not one already, I strongly recommend placing a utilization cage in the food plot to monitor the difference between the plots potential to produce forage and what it is currently producing.  If there is a huge difference, which I suspect there will be if the plot has been established and maintained with quality forage, you need to harvest several does.  In addition, deer herds express fewer signs of stress when the adult sex ratio is closer to being balanced.   This is another reason to harvest does.

With all this said, the neighboring properties share the same herd that you are monitoring and managing.  Hence, if a commercial soybean field adjoins your property then it is not as critical for you to provide quality forage during the growing season.

Take some time to consider how much food, cover, and water is available to the herd at your place and at your neighbors’ and then alter your management program to provide the resources that may be a limiting factor to the herd’s quality.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Muddy Ladder Stands

Question

Grant,

Which of Muddy’s ladder stands do you prefer for archery hunting, the “Archer” (which seems to be set up for rifle better to me) or the “Outfitter” and why?  I can’t seem to make up my mind.

Ron

 

Ron,

I prefer the Archer model!  I often remain in the tree for several hours, especially during the rut.  The arm rest on the Archer model provides great comfort and the ability to remain still and quiet during those times when I can enjoy the woods for several hours.  Safe, quiet, and comfortable are the primary characteristics of a ladder stand I prefer, and the Archer has those features!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Food Plot

Question

I own 57 acres in far western Kentucky.  I only have 3 one acre fields to plant in late fall and winter food plots.  Twenty acres are leased as row crops and the remainder is woods.  I have done a browse cut of about 2 acres.  What should I plant for a hunting food plot?

I really enjoyed meeting you at the QDMA convention.  It was my first time and I can’t wait until next year!

Thanks for all you do to help guys like me.

God Bless,

Jeff

Jeff,

It may be worth considering some trading with the row crop farmer to have him leave a bit of the row crop standing, especially if he’s planted corn or soybeans.  One factor that should be considered when deciding what to plant during the fall in plots designed to attract deer for hunting is what time of year you wish to hunt.  Appropriately fertilized wheat germinates rapidly and provides palatable and quality forage during the early season.  Brassicas can be mixed in, but may not become palatable until after a frost (mid to late season, depending on the year).  Clover can be mixed in to provide quality forage during the spring, especially if you are a turkey hunter.

I’ll be planting a lot of wheat this fall.  I’ve purchased my wheat already and am waiting on adequate soil moisture to plant.  Remember that nitrogen (within reason) makes wheat grow and taste better.  Don’t spare the nitrogen if attracting deer is your mission.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Sanctuary Quality and Location

Question

Between my farm and two adjacent pieces of property we have close to 60 acres of woods that border a small river which is to the south of my 180 acre farm.  Eleven acres of this woodlot is mine and borders my marsh.  The only time this area is disturbed is during the deer season, when the neighbors are hunting their piece of woodlot.  Not the best scenario, but the best I have at the present time.  I do not hunt my 11 acres and consider it my sanctuary.  With all of the rain we have had this year the area has flooded several times but drains out within a couple of days.  Will the deer use this area as a sanctuary as it is secluded and does offer some browse and acorns in the fall?

Steve

Steve,

Deer will use almost anywhere that provides cover and protection from being disturbed.  Woods that flood rarely have much vegetative cover at the ground to three foot tall level.  This is the critical cover zone for deer.  If your woods are open like a park, they are not providing high quality cover.  Deer may use it if it’s the best cover around.  However, better cover might reduce their stress and allow them to express more of their antler growth potential.

I typically like to create sanctuaries toward the middle of my property.  This allows deer to feel comfortable during daylight hours well within the borders of my property.  The benefit of this design is that it allows me an opportunity to hunt these deer before they venture to the neighbor’s property.  Deer departing from sanctuaries built on the edge of a property may only bed on my place but instantly venture onto neighboring properties.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Managing Hunters

Question

How do you manage your hunters with your expectations?  I am trying to grow bucks to the best potential that I can.  I have a 1000 acre farm, pay the mortgage and plant all the 60 acres of food.  I do expect some help from my hunters in return for the excellent opportunity I give them.  Every year they shoot the biggest deer (that I had asked to be left alone).  These are usually 3.5 – 4.5 year old 10 – 14 pointers in the mid 160’s.  They hunt many sites on the farm all fall and I only get to hunt 10 – 18 times every fall as I need to work to afford to keep this place.  My friends feel they do some work and the reward is that they can shoot which deer they like.  I don’t really want any of these deer shot until they are 5.5 – 6.5 years old and have expressed their full potential.  I asked each of these guys to limit their time to 10 – 14 hunts a year on my farm and only shoot the hit list bucks of 8 – 9 pointers in the 135 – 150 range and to leave all those other 10+ pointers alone unless it was on the hit list.  I received some unhappy feedback from them and one hunter actually told me he wouldn’t hunt here because my expectations were too high for anyone to follow.  All 7 of my hunters have killed their largest deer on my farm (157” – 193”).  The guy who left has killed a 160+ buck 4 straight years on this farm.  I have not killed a deer like this, although I have many chances each year, because I’m waiting for that one deer to explode and get to that 180 inch range.

Gary

Gary,

Having different missions and expectations is always a relationship killer.  I strongly encourage you to schedule a meeting and simply discuss your deer management objectives in detail with your guests.  It is common for folks that contribute a bit to feel more ownership based on their contributions than their efforts merit.  Without clear, polite communication this frustrating situation will likely elevate into a permanently damaged relationship.  There was a book written years ago titled “The Tragedy of the Commons”.  The author’s point was that when folks don’t pay or earn a possession or privilege, they don’t respect it.  This, unfortunately, is extremely common in our society.

When folks have the different views that you described, they need to be discussed in detail and an agreement reached, including an exit plan if they don’t follow your plan.  Discussing an exit plan before season, while everyone is calm is much easier than while bending over a three year old buck that you wish hadn’t been shot.

Mutual respect is a critical ingredient for all friendly relationships.  There’s no need for deer hunting or management to result in frustrations and hurt feelings.

People management is always more difficult that deer management.  I’m glad my specialty is helping folks with their deer management projects!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Building Soil in Food Plots

Question

Hi Grant,

We have 424 acres in the mountains of southwest Virginia.  It is fully forested except where the power company was so nice to provide us with a power line.  In one spot that is great for a foodplot they leveled a ridge to create a flat area of about 1 acre.  The problem is they scraped all the dirt off and have left only clay.  We had it tested and the county agent said it was the worst sample he had ever seen, 1% organic!  We have been having better luck growing by planting winter rye and plowing it under each spring, but it has been slow.  The soil is still not very good.  Do you have any recommendations to improve the soil faster without bringing in all new soil and without costing an arm and a leg!

Thanks,

Bill

Bill,

B horizon soils (what’s left when the top soil has been removed) are usually limited in organic matter and life in the soil (bacteria that break down organic matter and allow plants to use the minerals that currently exist in the soil).  Plowing in crops each year will add some organic matter, but the process is slow, very slow.  The soil conditions at my place are very rough also.  However, they improved significantly as a result of the humified compost I’ve used for fertilizer.  This adds nutrients, organic matter, and life to the soil.  Nutrients and organic matter are frequently discussed.  However, rarely is “life in the soil” discussed.  Quality compost will include a full complement of the bacteria that allows plants to better utilize the existing nutrients in the soil, and utilize nutrients in the atmosphere also.

If quality compost is not available in your area, the cost of shipping may be prohibitive.  However, TEA (a liquid made from compost that includes the beneficial bacteria) can be shipped and applied reasonably.  TEA won’t provide the benefits of adding organic matter to your sites, but the bacteria in TEA will help break down any organic matter available and make the associated benefits available to your food plot crops.  It’s a very good alternative.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in Food Plots in Ag Areas

Question

Hello Grant,

We have 185 acres that is surrounded by soybean and corn fields that are rotated every year. What would you plant in our food plots to compete with this?  Would you plant corn and soybeans, white clover, turnips, brassicas, or a seed mixture for something different?

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

It sounds like the deer in your neighborhood have plenty of quality warm season forage (local commercial soybeans).  If that is correct, then I assume the primary mission for your food plots is to serve as an attractant during the hunting season.  If that’s the case, standing corn is tough to beat in areas where deer are conditioned to eating corn and most of the local corn is harvested before you wish to hunt.  However, standing corn can be tough to hunt.  If the local corn won’t be harvested by the time you prefer to hunt, or you don’t like hunting standing corn, heavily fertilized wheat is both nutritious and readily used by deer.  The key is to ensure the wheat is well fed (heavily fertilized) and growing in soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0.  If you enjoy hunting turkeys, mix in some white clover as it will come on strong during the early spring providing quality forage for deer before the commercial beans are planted locally, in addition to becoming a feeding/strutting ground for turkeys that are readily attracted to clover and the associated insects.

Consider the food sources available in the likely home range of the deer using your farm and plan to plant accordingly.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Aging Bucks on the Hoof during Summer

Question

Grant,

What tips do you have for aging deer during the summer months?  We are starting our camera survey and it is difficult for me to determine the age class of some of the bucks.  I feel that it is much easier to age the deer later in the season (closer to the rut) when they are more “filled out.”  I guess I am not as good at seeing the Roman nose or the sway back on the deer in my pictures, even the ones I believe to be older age class based on the antler size.

Thanks for your help,

Jeff

Jeff,

Most deer managers, me included, have some difficulty estimating the age of bucks during the summer.  I think this is because they simply don’t have the classic body shape of bucks during the fall that hunters are familiar with.  When estimating the age of bucks during the summer, I look at the same characteristics that I consider during the fall.  However, I try to remember that the shapes and size ratios (apparent leg length to chest depth, etc.) will be more subtle.  If a deer has an overt belly and swayed back during the summer, I know he is very mature.  If his neck seems to blend into his brisket during the summer, I know he is mature.  I think the subtle differences are the key to accurately estimating the age of mature bucks during the summer.

The biggest help is comparing images of bucks taken at the same time from year to year.  This is an excellent method for learning site-specific characteristics that can be used to develop accurate estimates of a buck’s age.  There is also benefit to comparing images of the same buck taken during late summer to images taken during the fall.

Practice, practice, practice.  The fun part is ground checking!  I love research!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Native Browse in Ag Areas

Question

I am in the process of adding back highly preferred native browse to my farm since it seems the deer have literally browsed that to death.  I have heard that even in agricultural areas, the native browse makes up 60% of the forage for deer.  Is this correct?

Philip

Philip,

It sounds like you have a neat project.  However, I doubt 60% of a deer’s diet in areas with commercial agriculture (standard soybean/corn rotation) is composed of native browse.  In most areas with commercial agriculture, there is very limited native browse production and relatively high deer populations.  There simply isn’t enough native browse produced in the area to support the deer herd.  Most areas with native vegetation in commercial agricultural areas are composed of trees or CPP which is usually primarily composed of native warm season grasses.  Neither forest with closed canopies or stands of primarily native warm season grasses will produce enough forage to support a very high deer population.  I’m confident that native vegetation in most areas of commercial agricultural production composes a very small percent of the local deer herd’s forage intake.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attracting Deer without using Bait

Question

Hi Grant,

I live in southwest Wisconsin in River Bluff Country.  We have loads of timber but I have trouble getting summer velvet images on my 110 acre farm consisting of ridges, valley and winding streams.  I plant 8% of my property in corn, beans and clover for the deer but have not captured a mature buck on trail camera or when filming in the evenings in the last three years.  We are close to the CWD Zone so mineral and bait are out of the question.  There are big deer in our area that we film and shoot every fall, but the summer is dead.  What can I do to get summer images without bait and mineral?  I really enjoy your website, keep up the good work.

Rick

Rick,

Do you believe the local herd is using your property during the summer?  It might be that they are using the local commercial Ag field, especially if it’s better fertilized.  I ask because some food plot farmers don’t fertilize their plots as well as the neighboring commercial farmer.  Deer can readily taste the difference!  A likely scenario is that deer are consuming the adjoining farmer’s beans during the summer then switching to eating at your plots when the farmer harvests his beans and/or there is more hunting pressure on the adjoining properties.

In states with regulations similar to those in your area, the best you can do is place your trail cameras overlooking some limiting factor.  This may be water, the preferred food sources, etc.  Using the time lapse option when the camera is overlooking a field is a good plan as it will allow you to view deer that are farther than the motion sensor can detect movement.

Creating and monitoring mock scrapes, even during the summer, is an acceptable option.  Bucks, does, and fawns are very curious and will readily check out the fresh smell of dirt in the woods, especially when accompanied with the visual support of a busted overhanging limb, etc.

Whatever the case, I’m glad the mature bucks are using your property during the hunting season!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Population at The Proving Grounds

Question

How much land are you working?  Acreage?  What were the deer numbers before you started this project and when did you start this project?  What are the results in deer numbers now?  Great site!  My sons and I watch all the time.

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  The Proving Grounds is 1,576 acres of rocks and ridges.  If we could flatten it out, I’m sure it would be more than 3,000 acres.  The first year I owned the property I walked very often simply to learn every nook and cranny.  I saw one deer and found 11 sets of deer tracks (however, the soil is so rocky deer tracks are very hard to find).  Based on the camera survey last year (2009), I estimated there were 70+ deer per square mile.  I’ve really enjoyed working on the habitat improvement projects and watching the deer herd quantity and quality respond.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How much Potassium do Deer Require?

Question

Grant,

How much potassium do whitetails need?  Deer consume the potassium chloride pellets that I have experimentally added to mineral licks.  What would be the optimum sodium/potassium ratio for deer?

Dave

Dave,

I’m not aware of any recent research on potassium needs of white-tailed deer.  Dr. Weeks published that potassium content in a whitetail’s diet varies significantly month to month with the highest intake occurring in April (26 g/kg) and a low of 12 g/kg during February and October.  I suspect if you observed deer regularly using the potassium chloride pellets in months besides March, April, or May that either potassium levels are low in the local soils and crops, or deer were using the pellets because of the salt content.

Thanks for sharing your observations!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Maturing Oats

Question

Grant,

I planted buck oats in our plot at the end of May.  It now is getting taller and some of it is starting to tassel.  Will this still be a good food source for the deer in October/November or should I till it under and replant now?

Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

Unless the deer population is really low or your food plots are relatively large, any of the small grains (wheat, oats, and rye) will be long gone before October.  Deer rarely consume these crops once they mature past the leaf stage (8” – 12” tall) during the spring.  Once these crops begin producing stems (mid to late spring), the palatability and forage quality decreases substantially.  Then, once the crop begins producing a seed head, deer will once again consume the crop.  This is why I rarely allow small grain crops to remain standing past the leaf stage.  They are simply using real estate without providing quality forage for a couple of months.  Usually food plot acreage is limited, so I need to make each acre as productive as possible during the growing season.

I’d replant that plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Elk in Missouri

Question

Grant,

Is November 5th, 2009 GrowingDeer.tv’s first video available to the public?  If it is not how do I view earlier videos?

Also, what are your thoughts on the MDC’s intention of releasing elk into MO and how will it affect local deer populations?

Thanks,

Korey

Korey,

Yes, our first episode was published November 5th, 2009 (GDTV 1).

I haven’t heard that the Missouri Department of Conservation has plans to release elk into Missouri.  I do know that a few elk (5 or so) have been observed in one of the public use areas that is close to the Arkansas border.  Of course Arkansas has a limited season for elk, and has had for many years.  So it’s a safe assumption that a few elk will wonder north of their border from time to time.

Growing Deer (and watching for elk) together,

Grant

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How Many Deer?

Question

Dr. Woods,

What is the most accurate way to figure the deer population on my property?  I have about 145 acres and I plant part of it in food plots and I supplemental feed.  It seems the more food plots I put out the more it gets eaten down by the deer.  I know that I also need to figure out my buck to doe ratio to help me manage the land.  I would appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Chris

Chris,

I believe the most accurate and practical method to accurately estimate how many deer are using a property, the herd’s adult sex ratio, age structure of bucks, buck:doe ratio, etc. is by performing a camera survey.  In fact, I’m currently in the middle of a camera survey at The Proving Grounds.  I perform a camera survey every year at my place.  It is a fabulous tool for deer and habitat managers.  I’ve written a detailed list of instructions on how to perform a camera survey.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Reconyx Trail Cameras

Question
Hi Grant,

Earlier tonight I took the challenge and bought a semi-covert Reconyx camera, the one that’s $450.00.  This might be a dumb question, but do think this will be a good camera?  My other question is do you think cameras with regular flashes bother deer greatly?  One reason I bought this camera is my “other” cameras have flashes and I truly believe they bother the deer.  Heck, they bother me when I walk by them.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

I really, really enjoy using Reconyx trail cameras!!  Since I began using the Reconyx semi-covert models I’ve collected literally 100’s of images of deer bedded in food plots.  I’ve used different brands of cameras at these same plots in the past and almost never captured an image of a bedded deer, let alone deer bedded for more than two hours continuously.  It’s enjoyable to watch one deer get up and feed while the others remain bedded and learn exactly when and where they enter and exit food plots.  Reconyx semi-covert units have helped me to pattern and manage deer better.  I’m sure you will be as satisfied as I am.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trail Camera Model with Time Lapse Option

Question
Grant,

I am shopping for a trail camera that can be programmed to take pictures at 15 minute intervals. Can you give me some advice?

Thanks,

James

James,

I use and recommend the Reconyx brand of trail cameras.  They simply work – period.  I have Reconyx units that are 6+ years old and are working in the woods as I write.  They are a great value as they work well, are easy to use, and the covert flash rarely alerts deer.  I literally have 100’s of images of deer bedded in front of a Reconyx unit.  I’ve never had similar results with other brands of cameras.

I really like that the Reconyx units can be set to work in time lapse and motion detection mode simultaneously.  This allows a hunter to scout extremely effectively.  Reconyx cameras are a great tool that I use for hunting and managing deer!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Aren’t Eating My Food Plots

Question
Grant,

Based on your recommendation from a previous e-mail that I sent to you I placed 3 cameras out on my 180 acres this past weekend.  I have had several cameras out during the month of July over Trophy Rocks and have captured a lot of pictures of both bucks and does.  I have approximately 1 acre of soybeans, 1 acre of Bio Maxx and 1 acre of clover and the deer are barely touching it.  With the exception of the clover, the beans and Bio Maxx have only been in the ground for a month because of the rain.  Since I have deer on the farm and they are not hitting the beans and Bio Maxx does that mean they are filling their nutritional needs from native habitat on my place?  The surrounding farms basically raise cattle, so very little agriculture is taking place within 1.5 miles of my place.

Steve

Steve,

I don’t have a definitive answer for your question, but will share some thoughts.

1.  If deer aren’t eating soybeans, it usually means they don’t recognize them as a source of food (this happened at The Proving Grounds the first two years I planted beans here), or the quality of the forage is lower than other forage available in the area.

a.  Did you perform a soil test and add the appropriate amount of fertilizer to the food plot crops?

2.  Many areas in the Midwest have received so much rain during the 2010 growing season that many nutrients in some soil types have literally leached deeper than the plant roots can reach.  Plants stressed in this manner usually don’t taste very well (to humans or deer).

a.  Don’t hesitate to taste some of the leaves from your food plot crops.  If they taste really bitter, or the forage is tough to chew, that’s another hint that the crops may not be healthy.

b.  If there are soybeans 1.5 miles from your farm, are deer consuming the soybeans there?  If so, that is a very good indicator that soybeans at your property are malnourished and aren’t palatable to deer.

3.  It would be rare that native browse in the Midwest is found to be more palatable that appropriately fertilized soybeans and other forage crops.  Later in the year deer commonly prefer acorns to many food plot crops, but during the summer, soybeans are usually one of the most preferred sources of forage to a deer.

As a test, you might place some shelled corn near the Trophy Rock and see if it’s readily consumed by deer.  If it is, I strongly suspect something is wrong with your crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Proper Planting Depth For Mixed Blend Planting

Question
Dr. Woods,

I just recently found your site and I really appreciate the information that you have made available to the “average” Joe like me.  My question is about planting.  I am from western Pennsylvania.  I have cleared an area approximately 80 yards by 25 yards in a creek bottom, which was pretty much all skunk cabbage.  I am following the recommendations of fertilizer and lime applications as a result of a soil test.  I sprayed the third application of glyphosphate this past Saturday and plan on tilling & planting next weekend.  My choice of seed is BioLogic Maximum and I plan to add some of their new Winter Bulbs & Sugar Beets to the mix.  My hope is that the sugar beets will be attractive to the deer prior to the hard frost that seems to be necessary to make the brassicas more palatable.  My local seed distributor provided me with a bag of “wildlife peas” that are outdated.  I’m thinking of planting some of these, then using a drag harrow to incorporate a little deeper into the soil, then broadcasting the brassica/beets mix over top.

Your thoughts?

Thank You,

Paul

Paul,

It’s always difficult to plant a blend of different sized seed.  As a general rule of thumb, larger seed should be planted deeper.  I agree with your plan of planting the peas first and attempting to place them an inch deep or less in the soil.  Then simply broadcast the beets and brassicas seed on top of the prepared seedbed.  This will work best if you can time the planting to occur just before a rain.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Simple Food Plot Mix

Question

Can you provide a recipe for the simplest (fewest crops possible) way to provide year round food for deer on my property?  I’m in the south and I’m not sure if brassicas would be attractive to deer.  My current recipe is corn, soybeans, grains (wheat, rye and oats) and clover.

This is my first year planting corn and it has come up great.  I have 20 acres of corn that will be left up for deer until the spring.  It appears to be an attractant for deer and other wildlife.  My concern with the corn is that it only provides cover after a few months of growth.  Until that stage all you have is bare dirt with no cover.  That takes up a lot of room on 100 acres.  Do deer migrate from surrounding areas to the corn when it provides sufficient cover (i.e. am I maximizing “holding” deer on my property if there is not always a large amount of cover provided in some way)?

Also, this is a touchy subject with most hunters, but it’s common in NC.  Would a good alternative be to supplemental feed corn as an attractant (many hunters around me do)?  I think corn on the stalk is probably more of an attractant and cheaper.  But it takes up valuable space and I’m not sure deer won’t leave when cover is missing on 20 acres while the corn is growing.

Eric

Eric,

I like your current recipe.  You will notice that I primarily plant a corn and soybean rotation at The Proving Grounds.  Soybeans provide extremely good quality forage for deer and other wildlife during the growing season.  Roundup Ready forage soybeans can provide more high quality forage than almost any other crop.  Weed control is as easy as it gets when using Round Up Ready varieties.  The same is true with Roundup Ready corn.  I enjoy growing corn.  It is relatively drought resistant and there are gads of varieties for almost every location throughout the whitetail’s range.  Clearly a corn/soybean rotation in the Ag belt produces some of the healthiest whitetails anywhere!

I do like to commit a relatively small percentage of my food plot acres to clover.  Clover can provide quality forage during two critical time periods.  The first is during the early spring before the temperature is warm enough to plant soybeans.  The second is after the soybeans have stopped growing in the fall.  Most varieties of clover are a bit more cold tolerant than soybeans.  When clover is growing during these two periods, it will usually produce a lot of forage.  Hence it doesn’t take many acres to provide adequate forage.  Wheat is my favorite small grain crop for providing forage during the late season, especially in your area.

Deer and other species of wildlife will readily use standing corn as cover.  You are correct that it is not providing forage for many months of the growing season, but it is providing cover.  Since corn usually produces at least twice as much grain as soybeans, I usually have at least twice as many acres of soybeans planted as I do corn on properties I manage.  I use a soybean-soybean-corn rotation so that a single field is not always corn or soybeans, yet they are both available somewhere on the property.   In addition, the ratio of acres planted to each crop should reflect what the deer prefer and the amount of each they consume at your location.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trophy Rock Placement

Question
I have noticed that you have your Trophy Rock placed on a flat rock at all your locations.  Why?  Does it help keep the mineral stations cleaner and prevent the transfer of diseases?  Thanks for your time and I love your site.  It is so helpful!

Kevin

Kevin,

I do prefer placing Trophy Rocks on large flat rocks so they are elevated slightly above the ground.  I do this to reduce the amount of dirt deer consume while using the Trophy Rock.  Unless a parasite is present, etc., ingesting dirt won’t hurt deer.  I simply want the deer to get the full benefit of the trace minerals in the Trophy Rock!  Some minerals leach through the soil profile faster than others.  However, deer licking directly on the Trophy Rock will receive the full complement of the trace minerals.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Wheat versus Rye as a Food Plot Crop

Question
Grant,

I live on a farm in western New York and have been working on improving my food plots for the past few years.  I have a combination of beans and corn but am looking to plant some rye or wheat in a few weeks.  I’ve watched all your weekly videos and really learned a lot from the food plot series.  What crop is more palatable and nutritious for deer, rye or wheat?  We have planted both rye and wheat as a cover crop on our harvested corn fields and I believe the deer preferred the rye.  I’ve read different discussions on the subject but would like to get your take on it. Thanks for taking the time to answer.

Dan

Dan,

I usually find that deer prefer wheat more than rye (grain, I never plant rye grass).  However, I suspect that deer would readily consume either if they were appropriately fertilized.  Different crops certainly perform better on differ soils and the mineral composition of the soils where you live might be better for rye.  Overall, I prefer wheat as it is usually less expensive, readily available, and when properly fertilized it is readily consumed by deer.  With that said, I suggest you continue with your current program if you are pleased with the results.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which Doe To Harvest

Question
Dr. Grant,

Hello, love the show!

On our farm we have an extremely high deer density.  On the average night while driving around my roughly 700 acres I will see around a hundred deer.  We have such a problem with crop damage that the DNR issues my uncle deer damage permits.  What type of does should I specifically look for to harvest with these summer harvest permits?  Should we be taking dominate does with fawns and hope that their button bucks will remain here on the farm?  Are fawns equipped to survive on their own at this point?

Thanks!

Andrew

Andrew,

When deer herds are overpopulated either from crop damage or herd health, I simply prescribe a doe harvest.  I never prescribe a certain age of does to be harvested.  Reducing the stress of over abundance in a deer herd will likely yield much more favorable results than could be achieved by attempting to select which does to harvest.  It is much more important to ensure the doe harvest quota is met than to worry about which does to harvest.

Fawns can survive from a nutritional point of view by July or so in most parts of the whitetails’ range (where the rut occurs during November or earlier).  However, a fawn’s odds at avoiding predators, etc., probably increase significantly in another month or so (by the beginning of deer season in most states).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Controlling Grass in Food Plots

Question

Dr. Woods,

My friend and I have been practicing QDM for 8 years now on a 150 acre tract of land in upstate New York that he owns.  We have a total of about 450 acres with exclusive rights.  We have approximately 12 acres in food plots consisting of summer and fall plantings.  We have very rocky soil and the last 3 years have been combating a serious grass problem in all our plots.  We recently applied arrow brand herbicide and had great results with it.  How do we avoid future problems with grass competition?  Do we use a no till drill and if so, which one would you recommend?

Thank you for your time,

Patrick

Patrick,

The best method to control grass competition (or any weed) depends on the species of crop with which the grass is competing.  For example, controlling grass in clover is totally different than controlling grass in wheat or corn.  Mowing rarely controls grass.  Using a herbicide that will kill the target species of grass while not harming the desired crop is a very good method for controlling grass in an existing crop.  Using herbicide to kill all existing vegetation and then planting using a no-till drill is a good method to reduce the amount of grass competition.  No-till drills eliminate the need to disk or turn the soil which reduces the amount of weed seeds that are brought to the surface of the soil.  Weed seeds that are several inches deep in the soil usually won’t germinate.  However, they can remain dormant in the soil for decades.  Using a no-till drill is a great practice, but it is almost always necessary to use herbicides to control grass because the few seeds that are within an inch of the soils’ surface will usually germinate and then produce more seed unless controlled by herbicide.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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White/Pale Spots on Clover

Question

Grant,

I noticed in two of my clover plots the plants have white/pale yellow spots on many of the leaves.  Is this a sign of some kind of soil deficiency or does the plant have some kind of disease?  I plan on doing a soil test, but wanted to make sure it was not a fungus or something I needed to spray for.

Thanks,

Aaron

Aaron,

It’s hard to diagnose without some additional information.  Your idea of getting a soil test is a good place to start, but discoloration of the leaves could be caused by any number of things.

Most diseases do not show up as light or yellow spots so I’m guessing it is more likely a nutrient deficiency or insect damage, but I can’t say for sure without knowing if entire leaves are yellow, old leaves, new leaves, leaf margins or veins etc, etc.

You might check with the local extension agent if they are knowledgeable about forages.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trophy Rock Compared to Cattle Mineral Blocks

Question

Hi Dr. Grant,

I recently went and bought two Trophy Rocks.  Your videos talking about them convinced me to try them.  What is the difference between Trophy Rocks and a mineral block from an ag store (red colored block)?  I had some thoughts on it, but I know you are more knowledgeable on them.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

Both Trophy Rocks and the standard mineral block sold at ag stores include some trace minerals.  However, there are 60+ trace minerals in Trophy Rock while the most trace minerals I’ve seen in a standard mineral bock is six.  Deer require a large number of minerals, but only require literally a trace of these minerals.  Deer will ingest some of these minerals as part of the forage they consume.  However, the mineral composition in soils and plants varies widely throughout the whitetails’ range.  Therefore, I want to provide more than six trace minerals to the deer I’m managing to ensure their growth is not limited by missing trace minerals.  Trophy Rock is a very practical method to ensure I’m providing 60+ trace minerals to a deer herd.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Closed Captions

Question

I would like to say that your videos are great and very informative.  Is there any way to add closed captioning or subtitles (by option) to your videos?  The reason I am asking is because my father is deaf and is a hunter.  I showed him your videos and he said that he would like to know what you are saying.  He also has several friends who hunt and are deaf and they would like to enjoy your videos as well.  Thanks for taking the time to read this.  I hope you will consider this for the deaf community.

God bless,

Scotty

Scotty,

Thanks for your note!  My father has very impaired hearing, so I’m very concerned about accommodating folks with total or significant hearing loss.  I don’t know much about providing closed-captions.  However, we will very soon begin including a transcript of each episode of GrowingDeer.tv directly under the video screen.  The transcripts will take a week or two after each episode is released to appear as we film and publish within a few days – literally.  It is what we call semi-live.

Our web developer is trying to create a situation where the transcript can be scrolled by the user to match the speed of the video.  We simply don’t know how well this will work at this time, but it is what we can accomplish within our budget and skill set.

I hope this change to GrowingDeer.tv benefits your father and his friends.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Triticale as a Cool Season Forage

Question

Grant,

I have to say that our hunting club is very happy with all of our crops this year, especially the Eagle Seed Beans.  They just keep growing even with heavy browse pressure and that is awesome.  My only regret is that we did not put a utilization cage up.  We try to provide enough quality forage year round (beans, corn, clover and cereal grain in the fall).  My question is about Triticale.  Is it any better than wheat or oats?  I can buy wheat for about $8.00/bag.  What are your thoughts?

I really enjoy your website!  Very good Stuff!

Lance (Alabama)

Lance,

I’m not a fan of Triticale.  Wheat does a fine job of transferring nutrients to deer if it is fertilized and established properly.  There are probably some geographic areas or circumstances where Triticale performs better than wheat, but I’ve yet to see them.  Until I have a different experience, I’m sticking with wheat as my cereal grain of choice for cool season food plots.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Weed Control in Sunflowers

Question

Grant,

For the past two years, I have unsuccessfully attempted to grow sunflowers (for birds).  The area was tilled, and then subsequently sprayed with glyphosate two and four weeks from the original tilling.  When I planted the sunflowers, there wasn’t a weed (or grass) to be seen.  As the sunflowers grew, so did the weeds — to the point that the sunflowers simply could not compete to grow tall and produce.

Do you have any suggestions?  One thought I had was to spray the area with a pre-emergent (pendimethalin?) after the sunflowers emerge from the ground.  Is this sound logic?

Barry

Barry,

I haven’t used Pendimethalin to control weeds in sunflowers.  However, I checked the label and it states…

“In sunflowers, groundnuts, kidney and dry beans and soybeans PENDIMETHALIN 500 EC must always be mechanically incorporated before seeding and within 5 days of application.  Best results will be obtained if incorporation is carried out within 24 hours of application.”

I always attempt to follow the instructions in a herbicide label exactly for the best results and to prevent damage to a crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Does Temperature affect Timing of the Rut?

Question

Hi Grant,

I have seen quite a few does that are dropping late this year.  I have also read that many others around the country (Midwest belt mainly) are seeing the same thing.  I know you and others have stated this is due to a herd imbalance caused by having too many does for the bucks to breed.  I know on our farm and the surrounding properties there is probably a 1:3 ratio and this would certainly be part of the problem.  I am curious if the heat we experienced during the rut last year could also have contributed to this?  Sure seems like an awfully good coincidence to me.

Thanks for answering my question.  Keep up the good work.

Andy

Andy,

There have been multiple research projects that have compared actual conception and fawning dates of free-ranging deer (based on aging the deer fetuses from late harvested does) and several environmental factors such as temperatures, moon phase, etc.  These studies have shown that the majority of deer breed the same time each year if the herd’s population structure (age structure, adult sex ratio, etc.) doesn’t change.  Deer certainly may be a bit more active at night if the daytime temperatures are above normal, but they still want to find a date.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Herbicide for a Clover Chicory Blend

Question

I maintain about 20 acres of food plots.  Due to time constraints all of my plots are planted in clover, alfalfa and chicory.  The majority of them are over 3 years old and I am getting a significant amount of grass and weed invasion.  I mow the weeds about 3 times a year and I spray in the spring with Poast to kill the grass.  You had mentioned on GDTV 30 about spraying your clover with herbicide that will not harm the clover but will eliminate other broadleaf weeds.  Is there an herbicide that you know of that I can use that will not harm my alfalfa and chicory along with the clover?

Don

Don,

Both Pursuit and Raptor herbicides can be used to control most broadleaf weeds in clover and alfalfa.  However, both herbicides can damage or kill chicory.  It’s very tough to find a herbicide that will not harm legumes (soybeans, alfalfa, and clover) and not harm chicory because it is not a legume.

I really like chicory as quality deer forage, but rarely blend it with clover because it limits my options for weed control.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Body Weights

Question

Grant,

Is a yearling buck in Saskatchewan, Canada as big as a big buck in western New York?  I know a huge deer around here weighs 200 pounds tops.  Does a yearling buck in Saskatchewan, Canada weigh about 200 pound in its first year of life?

Cliff

Cliff,

Body weights of deer are a function of the deer’s age and the quality and quantity of forage available, as well as the stage of the rut or pregnancy.

This varies more by resources available within a deer’s home range than comparing geographic region to geographic region.  For example, deer living at The Proving Grounds tend to weigh MUCH more than deer in other portions of the county (literally only a few miles away) because of the quality food plots at my place compared to the normal hardwood/fescue pasture habitat commonly found throughout most of the county.

200 pounds would be a very large free-ranging yearling buck in most areas of the whitetails’ range!  Deer from Saskatchewan and New York should weigh about the same if they are the same sex, age, and have access to the same quality forage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shoot or Don’t Shoot?

Question

Hi Grant,

My buddy and I are bow hunting some land this year that will be new to us.  We’ve had our trailcams up for the past couple months and have some pictures of several pretty nice bucks.  We’re debating on whether or not we would take one of them.  Although he is pretty big he appears to be somewhat young.  He is currently looking like he would be 6 x 6 (both G1s are split), but has the potential to be a 7 x 7 this year if the main beams continue to split.  I honestly think he may only be a 2.5 or 3.5 year old deer, but he could be hard to pass on especially since there are several guys that push the deer out of there during the gun season.  We were wondering if we could get your email address and send you a couple pictures of him to get some insight on how old you believe he is?

We ran across your site from Midwestwhitetail.com, we know some of their prostaff and may actually be getting filmed this upcoming season.  Thanks for your time!

Joe

Joe,

Congratulations on finding a super buck!  A buck with a 6 x 6 frame and having split brows is very rare!  It’s very tough to pass any high-scoring buck.  However, the only chance for this buck to express his full antler growth potential is if he reaches a mature age class.  So, the decision of whether to attempt to harvest or pass this buck should be based on your deer management program and hunting objectives.  Simply stated, it’s a personal choice.

Unfortunately, I can’t provide an age estimate of all the bucks in the images folks email me.  I enjoy looking at them, but simply can’t take the time to respond to all of them.  I hope I see you passing or dragging that buck this fall on Midwest Whitetails!

Grant

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How Does Temperature Affect Deer Movement?

Question
Grant,

I was reading over your blog about habitat diversity and stress. It got me to wondering, how do deer at The Proving Grounds react to extreme heat? Do they conserve energy by bedding up most of the day, or do they still move some? Also, during extreme heat do the deer move if a storm pops up and temperatures drop, which would increase moisture in vegetation? Have you noticed weather changes that will prompt deer to move during the day with extreme heat? I hunt South Carolina and our season starts September 1st and it is still plenty hot around here. I’m looking for ideas of when to look for daytime movement during high temperatures.

Thanks,

Jim

Jim,

I agree, early September, on average, is a scorcher in much of the whitetails’ range. Deer react to changes in temperature much the same way we do. When it’s hot we run around less than when it’s cool, just like joggers that like to run in the cool, early morning hours. For deer, the main factor in movement is the difference in temperature from the average temperature for a particular time of year. For example, if the average temperature in early September is 90 degrees and a cool front comes through and drops it to 80 degrees, deer will likely be more active. However, if the temperature rises to 100 degrees the opposite occurs. This is especially true during the rut. Many hunters report that “no rut occurred” if the temps are unseasonably warm during the rut. However, there are always fawns the following spring. Even during the rut, deer tend to move mostly at night if the daytime temperatures are above normal.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Seeding Rate for Eagle Seed Beans

Question
Dr. Grant,

I planted Eagle Beans Managers Mix this spring for the first time.  We have fields that are two acres or less.  They were hammered by the deer early until we bought a Gallagher solar charger and put up a protective fence.  Now they are rebounding very well.  My question is how many pounds of beans per acre should we plant now that we can protect the beans from being over browsed during the early stages?  We have a pretty high deer density.

Thank you,

Ricky

Ricky,

I’m glad to hear the Eagle Seed Beans and Gallagher Fence combo worked well for you.  I receive similar comments very frequently from other deer managers and hunters!

I’ve had great success at planting Eagle Seed Beans from 40 to 80 + pounds per acre, pending on the size of the plot and the local herd density.  For your situation, if the soybean forage developed a closed canopy (blocking sunlight from reaching the ground under the beans) after the fence was installed, I recommend planting the same rate again next year.  However, the difference would be that the Gallagher Fence should be protecting the soybeans from germination until they are large enough to handle the browse pressure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Are Fruit Trees Necessary?

Question
Dr. Woods,

There’s a lot of hype now about planting shrubs and trees for deer.  Soft and hard mast plants like apple trees, dogwoods, nannyberry, arrowwood, elderberry, dwarf chinkapin oaks, etc.  From things you have written, it seems you support this, but you acknowledge that there are better/easier/cheaper ways to do this in the form of ag crops like clover, corn, soybeans, etc.

I know planting trees and shrubs won’t hurt anything and I’m sure it will help somewhat.  To what extent will it help and is it worth all my time and energy to do so?  On my 100 acre property I have 30 acres in ag crops in an area limited in food.  I just had my property select cut to eliminate the “park effect” in my woods, to encourage hard oak mast and mainly to create more cover/bedding.

In areas other than my ag crops, is it worth planting all of these native and non native soft/hard mast trees and shrubs (i.e. will I see and grow more deer from them)?  Part of me knows that 30 acres of ag crops is more than my deer can eat.  But will the increased diversity in planting these shrubs and trees increase deer sightings and success, possibly from providing something that deer in my area have never really seen (i.e. elderberry, apple trees, crabapples, hazelnuts, etc, etc, etc.)?  I’ve already planted over 100 apple trees this past year that mature and drop from September to December.

Thanks!

Eric

Eric,

It sounds like you’ve been doing your homework!  Planting more shrubs and trees on the property is probably not necessary.  Although fruit trees can provide some exciting hunting come fall they require a lot of care to get them to maximize their production and quality.  In addition, soft/hard mast production is probably already increasing in response to the select cut you’ve performed.  It looks like planting the remaining open areas in native warm-season grass might provide the greatest benefit if cover is a limiting factor at your property.  Warm-season grass provides excellent bedding, security, and fawning cover.

With adequate food, cover, and water available, the next step is to set areas aside as sanctuaries.  When it comes to sanctuaries and holding deer, more acres generally are better.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Convert a Warm Season Food Plot to a Cool Season Food Plot

Question
Dr. Woods,

I really enjoy watching your videos and learning something new from each one that I see.  I have a 1/2 acre food plot that currently has buckwheat, IC cowpeas, and Lab Lab in it.  I would like to convert this plot over to a clover/chicory perennial plot this fall.  What steps should I take in order to prepare this plot for the clover/chicory?  I live in northeast Tennessee and currently the plot’s ph is 6.5.

Thanks and keep up the good work!

Brandon

Brandon,

The best method depends on the equipment you have available.  Ideally I would spray the plot with a broad-spectrum herbicide like glyphosate if a lot of weeds are present and no-till drill a winter wheat/clover/chicory mix.  I added the winter wheat because it will produce the bulk of this fall’s forage and become a nurse crop for the clover/chicory in the spring and summer.  Since wheat is an annual plant it will mature and die in late May or early June.  When drilling, place wheat in the large seed box and plant 1 inch deep and place the clover/chicory in the small seed box where it will trickle behind the coulters and ahead of the press wheel for the optimum ¼ inch deep seed-to-soil contact.

If a drill is not available, weeds are not present, and the warm-season crop is sparse, another option would be to simply broadcast the cool season forage over the standing crop just before a rain.

The last option would be to disk, broadcast seed, and drag the plot.  I tend to shy away from disking to decrease the amount of weed seeds brought to the soil surface.  No matter the technique, keep the nutrient levels in the soil in the optimum range to improve the plot’s attractiveness.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Many Cameras for a Herd Survey?

Question
Grant,

I truly enjoy your program and look forward to the video each week and the Ask Grant section.

I own 180 acres west of Moberly, Missouri and I want to execute the camera survey.  How many cameras should I put out?  Your video mentioned one camera for each 60 to 100 acres.  Should I focus on three different locations, one for every 60 acres on my property?  My major focus has been quail habitat and with the aid of my MDC PLC my quail populations are increasing.  I have been utilizing Trophy Rock and currently have cameras on these locations plus some overlooking food plots.  Based on what I am seeing on the cameras it appears that I need to thin out the does, but I want to do it right.  I look forward to your response.

Steve

Steve,

Yes, if I had 3 cameras I would put all three out in different parts of the property.  The goal is to capture as many different deer as possible at each camera site, so place the cameras where the deer want to go.  Since deer love mineral licks this time of year they are great places to add a bag of whole kernel corn to make the deer come in on a consistent basis.  Identifying individual bucks can be difficult without adequate pictures of each buck to study, so put the cameras on 3-shot mode if possible.  Other great camera site locations are near food plots or water sources.  Just remember to pre-bait, have plenty of memory card space, corn, batteries, etc., and allow the survey to run 14 days and you should be set.  Check out more detailed camera survey instructions I recently posted.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Don’t Clean the Table

Question
Dr. Grant,

I’m reading North American Hunting Club’s “Whitetail Wisdom” and I’m wondering about a term you use in “A Hunger for Deer Food.”  You use the term drilling or top-drilling in reference to planting a warm-season crop and then drilling a cool-season variety into it to create a two-season food plot.  What specifically is this technique and how is it accomplished?

Thank you for your time.

David

David,

Drilling cool-season forage into a warm-season crop is one of my tactics in “not cleaning the deer herd’s table.”  Traditional agricultural practices often dictate completely removing one crop, tilling the soil, and then planting, etc.  By drilling directly into a standing warm-season forage, food is available in the plot until the cool-season forage can begin feeding the herd.  With high quality food in the plot at all times, the deer herd is less likely to wander onto neighboring properties in search of it.  Not only can a gap in food availability help a neighbor to fill his buck tag but it also puts stress on the herd during a time of year when building energy reserves for the rut and winter is critical.

I utilize this method the most in plots planted with Eagle Seed Roundup Ready soybeans.  Remember that soybean grain is a great cool-season forage so leave areas of the food plot that look like they are going to provide a good bean grain crop.  In areas of a plot that are heavily consumed, either drilling or even simply broadcasting a cool-season forage such as wheat/brassicas works well.  Plots where the soybeans have been heavily browsed can become weedy.  If this occurs, I eliminate the weeds before planting a new crop in this plot.

Lastly, I always wish to plant at least 45-60 days before the first average frost date to maximize the production of cool-season forage before winter.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When and how long do you run your trail cameras for a deer survey?

Question
Grant,

When do you run your trail camera surveys at The Proving Grounds? How long do you run them? And how many acres per camera? I’ve read to wait until late August (after velvet shedding), but I’m not sure why as long as the bucks are far enough into the growing season that they are identifiable and the fawns are traveling with their mothers.

Any other tips for running a successful camera survey?

Bret

Bret,

I’m glad to hear you are considering a camera survey.  Camera surveys provide much information on learning, watching, and managing your deer herd.  I usually start pre-baiting for a camera survey in late July and plan to start the actual survey in early August.  Typically, it takes 7-10 days of pre-baiting with one camera per 100 acres to get at least 90% of the herd to visit the camera sites.  The survey itself requires about 14 days.  During this time I get enough buck pictures to uniquely identify each individual.

August is one of the best times to conduct a survey because food resources are in limited supply, many fawns are at heal, and bucks are still in their summer movements between food and cover.  Waiting until after the bucks have lost their velvet can negatively affect the survey.  Velvet shedding is a sign that the hormones in a buck are changing rapidly.  This causes them to start behaving more aggressively toward other bucks, especially at a bait site, and alter from their summer movements.  Every year I have bucks that bed and forage on my property all spring and summer and disappear shortly after losing their velvet.  This can be troublesome when looking at inaccurate population data to develop a doe harvest or warm-season food plot strategy.

It is true that fawn counts can be a bit low in August because not all of the fawns are old enough to continuously follow their mothers around.  However, some of the most important information gathered from a survey lies in the trends over time.  Create and add these data to a simple graph year after year to see how the number of bucks, does, and/or fawns changes.  These data contain the answers to proper herd management.  To learn more about how I implement a camera survey, check out my camera survey techniques guide.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Soybeans in Small Food Plots

Question
Grant,

I would like to start off by saying how much I enjoy GrowingDeer.tv.  I have learned a great deal from you and your website.

I really like what I have read and seen about Eagle Seeds, but the food plots that we have are very small (1/4 to 1/3 acre).  We have one plot that is 1 acre and another that is close to 2 acres.  What is your suggestion on the minimum size of a soybean plot?  We can put up some sort of plot protector to give the crop a chance to get established.  I am concerned that the grazing pressure on that small of a plot (even the 2 acre) would just be too great.

Jim

Jim,

The ratio of plot size (browse production) to deer density (consumption) is extremely site-specific in relation to soybeans.  There are some areas where the deer density is low enough that soybeans will grow and be productive in relatively small plots (like The Proving Grounds when I first purchased it).  However, hunters don’t usually like such areas as the deer herd density is so low that deer sightings are rare.

As the deer herd density increases, the size of plot necessary to allow soybeans to grow also increases.  However, even in areas with extremely high deer herd densities, I’ve observed soybeans being allowed to mature simply by using the Gallagher Fence Food Plot Protection System.

The use of the Food Plot Protection System can vary from simply allowing the soybeans to become established and mature enough to handle the local browse pressure to total protection and allowing them to mature and using the soybean pods as a nutritious late winter food source and/or attractant.

Protecting a small plot of soybeans is relatively easy.  Determining how many acres to plant to be in balance with the local deer herd density is often only accomplished based on site-specific trial and error.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Crops for Small Attractant Plots

 

Question
I’m in a hunting club in Winston County, Mississippi.  The club has 3,000 acres with only 25 members.  We practice QDM and a friend and I do most of the planting.  The property is a pine farm with some hardwoods here and there.  We have a 2.5 mile pipeline that I plant with clover, soybeans, and a winter mix. What would be best to plant on the small honey holes in the woods? More beans? What do you think about purple hull peas?  If you are ever down in Mississippi you are welcome to hunt with me.

Thanks, love your site.

Ken

 

Ken,

There are several considerations when deciding what crop to plant in any food plot.  One of the most important of these considerations is the local deer herd density (the number of mouths competing for quality forage).  Deer readily consume and prosper when consuming soybean forage and soybean pods.  However, planting soybeans can be poor management if the local deer herd density is such that the soybeans in a particular plot are consumed before the plants were allowed to produce many pounds (tons) of forage.

Therefore, soybeans may be a great choice to plant in the larger plots at your club, but may not be a good option to plant in your “honey hole” plots.  I like to mix soybeans and wheat when establishing relatively small plots just before hunting season.  Deer are very attracted to young soybeans.  I realize they will be consumed before they are allowed to mature.  However, by including soybeans in the blend, a few days of fabulous quality hunting can be experienced until the soybeans are consumed.  Then the wheat begins to produce quality forage and deer remain attracted to feed at that site.  You may consider adding some clover.  Although the clover won’t be very productive during the few months after it is planted, it can produce some forage during the late season at your southern location, and should come on strong the following spring.  Turkeys readily utilize “honey holes” as strutting and feeding areas during the spring and clover is a good choice for spring forage production for turkeys and deer.

The palatability and productivity of soybeans, wheat, and clover is closely related to the soil’s fertility.  I always recommend analyzing the existing nutrients available in the soil (a soil test) and then providing the proper mixture and quantity of fertilizer to allow each crop to express its potential both in productivity and palatability.  Without the appropriate amount of soil fertility, no crop will be as productive and as attractive to deer as it could be.

Purple hull peas produce good quality forage.  However, Round-up Ready forage soybeans produce more tonnage per acre and are much easier to manage than non-Round-up Ready crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Failure?

Question
We planted 7 or 8 acres of Eagle Brand forage soybeans in May in Macon County, Georgia at 50 lbs. per acre.  We probably have 30 or 40 deer per square mile per QDMA charts (maybe more) and some hogs.  This is a QDMA antler restriction county and we are more restrictive.  We have a decent buck/doe ratio.  We herbicided and drilled the seed.  While we have had some drought, the beans got to about 6-8 inches by early June and then they were completely eaten by last week (July 15th)!  Nothing left except nutgrass.  Any idea what we may have done wrong?

Don

Don,

It doesn’t sound like you did anything wrong, except maybe underestimate the local deer herd density.  There were 75+ deer per square mile at The Proving Grounds (based on a camera survey) last fall and we had 50 acres of food plots on 1,500+ acres of land.  Our small plots were heavily browsed, but our larger plots (3+ acres) looked like production soybean fields in Iowa.  This and other observations from properties where I work, including in Georgia, leads me to assume something is out of balance at your property.

Here are a few thoughts…

  1. I always like to plant soybeans as soon as the soil temperature is 62 degrees at 2” deep.  This allows the beans to grow rapidly before heat and drought stress usually is a factor.  By allowing the beans to become established during the early spring, they can withstand droughts and browse pressure much better than beans established during periods of higher stress.
  2. There is usually more quality native forage available during the early growing season as compared to later.  Quality native forage serves as a buffer to newly established beans by providing attractive alternative forage.  Any relief of browse pressure from the young soybeans will likely pay huge dividends in yield per acre a month or two later.
  3. I’ve been extremely pleased with the Gallagher Food Plot Protection System at allowing soybeans to establish healthy roots and forage before allowing browsing.  This is a great option in areas where the deer herd density won’t allow quality forage to become established.
  4. Bullets are back in good supply!  If your goal is balancing the local deer herd’s density with the habitat’s ability to produce quality forage, then it sounds like an increased doe harvest may be a good option.  If possible, a better option may be to combine reducing the herd’s density by implementing a doe harvest while providing more quality forage simultaneously.
  5. It usually requires a different herbicide than Roundup to kill nutgrass (I’m assuming we are both talking about Purple nutsedge (Cyperus rotundus L.)).  Some of the recommended herbicides that will control nutgrass are not compatible with soybeans.  I recommend you read the labels on some relatively new herbicides such as Image and Manage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Plants – Nutrient Transfer Agents

Question
At the QDMA convention there was some discussion about the ability of plants to transfer minerals from the soil.  Could you go into more detail on this subject?

Chris

 

Chris,

Most of the nutrients that deer, turkey, etc., require are in the ground in a form that isn’t readily usable or digestible.  Forage plants extract these nutrients from the soil and transport them and/or convert them to a form that is usable and digestible by converting them to foliage, seeds, fruit, etc.  For example, deer require gads of phosphorous to produce antlers.  They primarily obtain phosphorous from consuming plants rich in phosphorous.  If a usable supply of phosphorous is not available in the soil, the plants can’t transfer it to deer or other critters.  This is exactly why it is critical for deer managers to have the nutrients available in the soil analyzed annually (submit a soil sample to a quality lab) and make sure the lab knows what crops will be planted.  Different crops require different amounts of different nutrients and also transfer different nutrients to their forage (leaves) and seeds.  So the amount of fertilizer required for each food plot will depend on the crop to be grown, the amount of nutrients that are currently in the soil, and the objective of that field.  Except for allowing bucks to mature, making sure the appropriate nutrients are available for the appropriate crops is one of the most important tasks a deer manager can do to allow bucks in his area to express their maximum antler potential.  Plants are nutrient transfer agents, but they can only serve this role if the nutrients are available!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Plant Identification Book

Question
I’m looking for some good books that will help me identify the forest plants here in SC.  Any suggestions?

Patrick

Patrick,

I have several plant identification books.  One that I use more than others is the Forest Plants of the Southeast and Their Wildlife Uses by James H. Miller and Karl V. Miller.  I believe this book is available through the Quality Deer Management Association.  I often use a combination of books and the internet.  If I think I know the name of the plant, I go straight to the web as it’s easy to find several color images and descriptions rapidly.  If I don’t have an idea of the plant’s name, I either attempt to key it out based on the standard scientific process (not much fun), or grab one or two plant identification books that have color images.  The problem with most books is that they only show the plant at a certain maturity.  A huge advantage of searching the web is that usually I can find images of each plant at multiple maturity stages.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Weed Control

 

Question
Grant,

I love that you are very open about your faith.  I also love the show and the information you give to all of us to help out wildlife.  I planted Eagle Seed Wildlife Managers Mix this year and it seems to be doing pretty good.  I have some rabbit problems but my big problem is weeds, mostly some type of grass.  I would like to know what you would recommend for killing the weeds/grass?  I’ve seen on the videos that you have had a little bit of the same problem.  I went to my Tractor Supply store but they were not too much help because the associate that knows what to do was not in.  I know they sell regular Round Up, a store brand weed killer and Biologic Round Up Ready weed killer.

I live in Central Pennsylvania and also would like to know what would be a good crop for late season planting?  Most of the ag crops are harvested by mid November.  I do not know if there would be a 90 day corn to plant or if I should go with winter wheat, oats, turnips or some sort of mixture?  I do have a 1/2 acre of clover and chicory but is does not look like it’s getting enough nutrition.  Can I mow it down and put a type of fertilizer and more lime on it as long as there is enough moisture in the ground and rain in the forecast?  Would 0-20-20 be a good fertilizer for the clover?

Thank you for all your help and keep up the great work at The Proving Grounds.

Chad

 

Chad,

Thanks for the kind words!  Eagle Seed’s Wildlife Manager Mix is Round-up Ready.  I use any brand of glyphosate that includes a surfactant and then mix in ammonia sulfate.  This is an easy method to control grass and other weed competition in Round-up Ready crops.  Remember to calibrate the sprayer!

If the Wildlife Manager’s Mix appears to be producing a good yield of beans, I’d leave them standing.  If they produce 30 bushels per acre that equals 1,800 pounds per acre of extremely high quality food!  Few forage crops will produce that quantity and almost never that quality of forage during the cool growing season.  In addition, if the soybeans have already started producing pods, there is very little risk that a good yield will not occur.  Freshly established crops are always subject to droughts, early frosts, etc.

There are 75 day + varieties of corn.  However, I’m not familiar with anyone planting them that late in the northern states.  At that latitude, I’d rather plant a wheat/clover blend at least 45 days before the average first frost date.  I always recommend and practice applying enough fertilizer based on a soil analysis to ensure the crop can express its full potential.

I recommend collecting a soil sample from your existing clover/chicory plot and having it analyzed at a quality soil lab and adding the nutrients they suggest for maximum yield.  It’s much less expensive to insure clover has ample nutrient to thrive than it is to re-establish.  In addition, properly fertilized clover will be more productive and more attractive to deer!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crops for the Late Season

Question
Grant,

I don’t really know what I should plant for a good late season food plot.  I have some of the same problems you have with lots of rocks and this summer we haven’t got much rain, but hopefully that changes for us.  My grandfather owns land in western New York which is where I plant my food plots and hunt.  What do you think I would have the best luck planting for late season hunting?  We get lots of snow here because of the Great Lakes. Thanks for the help!

Cliff

Cliff,

I do a lot of work throughout New York.  In fact, I was working just north of White Plains earlier this month.  It’s tough to beat a combination of wheat and forage brassicas for a late season crop at that latitude.  Two keys to success for establishing great food plots in your area is to make sure they are planted a minimum of 45 days before the average first frost date (60 days is better if there is adequate soil moisture available).

Second is to make sure the plots are appropriately fertilized.  This can only be accomplished by collecting a soil sample and submitting it to a quality soil lab for analyses.  Make sure you tell the lab what you are planting and that you want a maximum yield (this is very important to the success of the plot).  Sadly, many soil labs treat soil samples from food plots very generically and give the customer a generic recommendation.  It’s critical that the lab recommends a fertilizer rate specific for the crops to be planted and to allow a maximum yield.  Crops established in this manner are more productive and more attractive to deer than crops that are established with a generic fertilizer recommendation.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best food plot crop for a one acre plot?

Question
My buddy and I bow hunt and we would like to know what is the best crop to plant in a one acre food plot?  Preferably something that will provide for the entire deer season.

Joe

Joe,

Unfortunately, there is not an easy answer to your question because there are so many variables.  For example, a good crop for your area would be something deer like to eat.  There are no soybeans grown in my area for agriculture or any other reason.  The first few years I planted soybeans, I couldn’t find where the deer had consumed any of the forage.  However, deer do learn and after a few years, now deer over browse the soybeans in my smaller plots.  I’ve found the same to be true for several other forage crops.

As for what to plant, deer consume wheat about everywhere it’s planted from Florida and Texas to Canada.  Wheat is a fine attractant and can provide qualify forage if fertilized appropriately.  If I had to pick one cool season crop it would be wheat.

I strongly suggest you collect a soil sample and have it analyzed before planting the food plot.  All crops, including wheat, are more productive and more attractive to deer if they have all the nutrients they need.  Even agricultural fields require being fertilized annually to produce a maximum yield.  Food plots are rarely established on soil as good as production agriculture fields so adding the appropriate fertilizer is even more important.  To make sure your food plot is as productive and as attractive to deer as it can be is only accomplished by collecting a soil sample and submitting it to a quality soil lab for analyses.  Make sure you tell the lab what crops you are planting and that you want a maximum yield (this is very important to the success of the plot).  Sadly, many soil labs treat soil samples from food plots very generically and give the customer a generic recommendation.  It’s critical that the lab recommends a fertilizer rate specific for the crops to be planted and to allow a maximum yield.  Using this system to establish a plot versus throwing out some seed and the “standard” 300 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer will help produce forage that is much more attractive to deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broadcasting Seed Over an Existing Eagle Seed Bean Crop

Question
Grant,

I have planted about 5 acres of Eagle Seed Soybeans this spring.  They look great, with 15 or 20 deer eating in this food plot each night.  If we leave the beans standing this fall would you plant something between the rows of standing beans or not?  The beans are the best summer food plot I have ever had and the deer love them.

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff,

I receive emails weekly from folks thrilled with their Eagle Seed Beans.  I learned a hard lesson by mowing some of my Eagle Seed beans last August and planting wheat.  The tonnage of soybean pods I destroyed by mowing was more tonnage than the wheat produced.  So, from now on if it appears the beans will produce 30+ bushels per acre of seed, I plan to leave them standing.  If it is a small plot and deer have browsed the forage heavily and bean yield will be minimal, I’ll drill or broadcast a fall crop over the existing forage.

This is a great technique as deer continue to consume the soybean forage while the cool season crop is germinating and growing.  Deer never need to change their feeding pattern as quality forage is always available in the same field!

I have attempted to broadcast seed into a good crop of Eagle Seed Beans that haven’t been over browsed and had limited success.  This is because Eagle Seed forage beans have been bred to mature extremely late (usually they remain green until a heavy frost).  By the time the Eagle Seed forage beans drop their leaves and allow enough sunlight to stimulate germination of the cool season crop, it is too late in the growing season.  The actual dates and success rates will vary based on the latitude.

My bottom line, if the soybean crop is doing very well, I leave it standing and allow the deer to consume the high quality pods all winter!  If the crop was planted in a small field relative to the local deer herd density and the soybeans have been heavily browsed, I over seed with ample fertilizer and a cool season crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Estimating Antler Score while Bucks are in Velvet

Question
When I look at a buck in velvet how can I tell how big his antlers are?  Some guys at work think that there is 2 inches of velvet around the antlers.  I think that it is more like 1/4 inch.  Can you tell me for sure?

Thanks,

Mitchell

Mitchell,

I’ve never seen the velvet more than ¼ to ½ in thick.  Once the blood flow to the velvet stops the velvet will shrink before it is removed by the buck.  So the thickness of the velvet varies based on the portion of the antler development cycle.  Just like humans, each buck is an individual and the thickness of the velvet will vary from buck to buck.  As a rule of thumb, I reduce my estimate of gross score of velvet bucks during August by 15% to compensate for the removal of velvet.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Building Organic Matter

Question
I am a land manager and founder for Trinity Special Sportsman Ministries in Central Florida.  We recently obtained this lease and our soils are horrible.  We planted Aeschynomene & Millet for our summer crops (I wish I would have found your Eagle Seed Soybeans sooner).  Anyway, if I want to improve the organic matter within my plots, what do you recommend doing?  Transporting Antler Dirt down here is too expensive.  I think the Lord’s money is better spent elsewhere.  I recently bought a pull behind leaf catcher and plan on making my own compost piles.  I realize this will take time.  Do you have any other suggestions?

In His Name,

Dennis

Dennis,

The two ways to increase organic matter are to haul it in (use Antler Dirt or other compost based fertilizer) or conserve the organic matter that is there.  I recommend using a no-till drill where practical and always using a cover crop when production crops are not established.  Any form of tillage limits the production and conservation of organic matter.  I have watched soils with very limited organic matter become fairly productive by simply using a no-till system for several years consecutively.  Building organic matter can be a very slow process at food plots if the deer consume most of the forage.  However, the benefits are certainly worth the effort.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating Food Plots in Thinned Pine Stands

Question
Grant,

I have a once thinned pine forest in GA (zone eight) and I want to plant clover in the pull row.  I have not budgetarily been able to get the stumps out.  Will the red clovers take some shade like the white?  What other food plot plants can I plant in shady areas?

Hugh

Hugh,

I really enjoy creating food plots within thinned pine stands.  Food Plot in Thinned Pine RowI often don’t remove the stumps.  I simply spray the existing vegetation, disk, hand rake, etc., the dead vegetation, duff, etc., out of the thinned row so the planted seed will make contact with the soil, then broadcast the appropriate amount of lime, fertilizer, and seed to establish the desired crop.

I’ve grown soybeans, clover, wheat, and most food plot crops in thinned rows in pine stands.  Pines allow enough sunlight to reach the forest floor to produce nice crops.  In addition, the partial shade helps conserve soil moisture.

I really enjoy hunting food plots established in thinned pine stands.  Deer are very comfortable foraging at these plots because they are close to cover.  In addition, the long, narrow openings tend to channelize the wind into a constant direction.  I rarely encounter swirling winds when hunting food plots established in thin pine stands.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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High Sugar Grasses For Food Plots

Question
Dr. Woods,

Do you have any experience with some of the new high sugar grasses and how well they hold up in smaller food plots?

Randy

Randy,

Years ago I did some testing with Brown Mid Rib grasses.  Deer will consume these sorghum x sudan crosses when planted in arid areas such as west Texas.  However, deer didn’t accept them readily when I planted them outside of west Texas where there were more forage options.  I haven’t tried any of the new varieties, but suspect that the results would be similar.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attract Bucks

Question
Great info!  We really enjoy your videos, they have some great ideas that we have been trying on our small food plot at our house.  We live in north Florida and have 26 acres.  For the last 2 years we have been planting a food plot as well as feeding with corn.  Our food plot of soybeans, iron clays, brown top millet and buck wheat is doing great!  But the only deer we see are does and babies.  Where are the bucks??  I know we need to harvest some of the does and we are going to work on that this year, but we planted the plot to help the bucks grow.  Last year we started seeing the bucks in September.  Any ideas on how we can get them coming sooner to get better nourishment before the does mow it down?

Thanks!!

James

James,

It sounds as if you have a good food plot program in place!  I’m surprised that you are not observing bucks, especially during the pre-season.  If you are not already, try using a trail camera to monitor if the bucks are using the plot at night.  I’d also place a source of mineral close to the plot.  Sometimes deer are not attracted to supplemental minerals in coastal areas due to the amount of salt in the environment.  However, bucks usually readily use minerals during July and August.

Finally, try to learn if there are competing food sources on neighboring properties that might be short-stopping the local bucks.  Don’t get discouraged as food is usually a great attractant for bucks, especially during the final stages of antler growth!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Coyotes and Deer

 

Question
Grant,

After watching your rabbit problem on video (GDTV 33), it got me thinking.  Is it worth harvesting and trapping all of those coyotes when the rabbits will then boom in number and destroy your crops?  Do you have any research or information about how many deer are actually killed by coyotes each year?  Or perhaps how many rabbits a coyote will kill each year?  Just trying to get some justification as to why you prefer rabbit problems over coyotes?

Bobby

 

Bobby,

It is true that coyotes eat rabbits.  It is also true that coyotes eat deer, lots of deer.  I recently advised a graduate student at the University of Georgia, Cory VanGilder, who completed his thesis on coyote-deer interactions.  He found that fawn survival increased 150+% after one year of trapping coyotes.

A more recent study placed transmitters in the vagina of does that were expelled when fawns were born.  When the transmitters were expelled, they sent a different tone to the receivers which allowed researchers to locate the fawn within an average of four hours.  Sixty-seven percent of the fawns were killed and consumed, the majority by coyotes, before the researchers arrived at the birthing site.  Many recent university research projects have documented similar results.

In fact, some states are considering reducing deer season/and or bag limits due to the amount of deer being killed by coyotes.  Remember that there is only a fraction of the trappers working today compared to just ten years ago.  In addition, fur prices have been extremely low during recent years and gas prices high.  There is very little motivation for trapping except for recreation and predator reduction.

Coyotes are clearly having a huge impact on many deer herds and other game species.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Rotate Winter Food Plot Crops

Question
Hi Grant,

My farm is located in a good ag area.  Hence, we usually have good amounts of soybeans, alfalfa etc. that the deer do well on in the spring and summer.

I have planted turnips in August to provide good food production for the deer in December, January and February.  I also mix in some clover with the turnip seed to give the deer something green to feed on in the spring.  Can I continually plant the same food plots with turnips year after year and expect to get a good yield?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

There are two good reasons to rotate crops.  The first is that each unique crop species usually uses specific micronutrients.  Planting the same plot year after year with the same crop will cause a depletion of those micronutrients.  They can be replaced by fertilizer if you use a very good fertility program that includes those specific micronutrients as well as adequate nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium.

The second reason is not as easy to address.  There are pests specific to almost all crops.  If the crops are not rotated, populations of these pests can build up to extremely high densities that can severely damage this or other crops.

I recommend rotating the clover/turnip blend with wheat or some other good quality forage crop.  Wheat is very cold hardy, can be very nutritious and productive if planted and fertilized correctly, and is easy to grow.  I’d reduce the risk of creating failure by practicing crop rotation.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Protecting Trail Cameras

Question
Grant,

I had the unfortunate experience of having my trail cameras stolen this year.  I am not sure what was worse losing 4 weeks of pictures or losing my cameras.  I know most camera companies make bear/theft cases for their cameras, which I was not using.  I have friends where people have damaged their camera in a bear case because they knew their picture had been taken.  I am not on my property everyday to watch over it.  Other than getting the Sherriff involved (as I have done), what do you recommend to protect your cameras from someone looking to steal them?

Thanks,

Brandon

Brandon,

I’m sorry for your loss!  I have no tolerance for folks that trespass or steal!  It seems you’ve done all you can do except attempt to hide the cameras better.  I really like using the time lapse feature if watching fields or open areas.  Trespassers rarely look 10’ in trees for trail cameras and being able to watch the entire field is a huge benefit!  It’s like having your best buddy watch the field, except the cameras have very little smell, don’t move, don’t make any noise, and don’t lie.  If the model of trail camera you use has a time lapse feature, consider giving that a try.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food or Cover

Question
Grant,

I have 215 acres in Dent County, Missouri that was 100% hardwoods when I purchased it.  I have knocked down 4 small food plots and put in a 2 acre pond to open areas up for browsing.  I’ve been doing selective logging (TSI) to assist with the understory as well.  I have been considering clear cutting a significant portion of the ground and doing controlled burns in coordination with making that area a sanctuary.  After watching the information on your site, I’m now rethinking that logic and considering making some larger food plots instead.  What do you think the advantages are of doing one over the other, or even a combination of both?

Eric

Eric,

You are very wise to weigh the options before making changes to habitat that can’t be undone during your lifetime!  Both cover and quality forage are critical to allowing deer to express their full potential.  To make the decision, I’d carefully analyze your mission for the property and what the limiting factors are to fulfilling your mission.  For example, if there are huge production ag fields adjoining your property then cover may be more of a priority than food.  If there is no production ag on or adjoining your property then establishing ample quality forage may be necessary to allow the local herd to express their potential.

I would not simply create a clear cut and count on the natural regeneration to provide quality cover on a sustained basis.  The resulting stump sprouts will grow past the stage of providing cover in just a few years.  In addition, woody browse never produces as many tons of quality forage per acre as production agriculture.  These are just a couple of guides to help you think through your options.

I strongly recommend you take ample time to evaluate your long-term objectives.  Missing a season is much better than spending a lifetime wishing you would have considered all the possible options.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Much Fertilizer for Soybeans

Question
I just completed planting 3 acres of soybeans in fairly rocky, unfertile ground — much like The Proving Grounds.  The land is around Cabool, Missouri.  What formula of fertilizer would you suggested for soybeans?

Ryan

Ryan,

Soybeans require lots of phosphorous and potassium.  Depending on the site, they may also require some of the micronutrients such as boron, etc.  To get the best yield, I always take a soil sample and submit it to a soil lab for fertilizer recommendations.  This is the only sure way to know how much and what type of fertilizer to use.  It is usually less expensive, and certainly more productive, to pay for a soil test and apply just the right amount of fertilizer than to guess.  If you guess you risk not using enough which results in a crop that is less productive and attractive to deer or using too much and more leaches through the soil than is used by the plants.  The lab can help you best if you tell them what crop you are fertilizing and that you want a recommendation to produce a maximum yield.

With that said, it’s a bit late to get a soil test for the current crop, so I’d add at least 300 pounds of 6-24-24 which is usually available at local MFA stores.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Preparing to Plant with a No-Till Drill

Question
How short do the grass and weeds need to be when using a no-till drill after roundup?  Do you fertilize before or after you no-till drill?

Ralph

Ralph,

The residual vegetation should be dead and thin/short enough that a no-till drill can cut through the vegetation and place the seed at the appropriate depth.  Hence, the vegetation type, weight of the drill, speed the drill is pulled, etc., are all factors.

Generically speaking, the shorter the vegetation, the better the seed to soil contact will be.  I have a 10’ drill that weighs about 6,000 pounds empty.  I can drill through 8” tall winter wheat that has been killed with glyphosate, but must drive a bit slower than if drilling through short soybean stubble.  The amount of soil moisture and the soil’s texture are also factors.  For example, sandy soil is much easier to drill into that dry clay.

A final tip is to ensure the drill is closing the furrow that the coulter opened.  Sometimes excessive duff on the ground keeps the packing wheel from closing the furrow and leaves the seed exposed.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Silver Lined Clothes as Scent Control

Question
Dr. Grant,

I love your videos.

I heard you mention “silver” in hunting clothing?  In your honest opinion, does “scent free” super expensive clothing REALLY work??  I had a 155 inch buck with my wind blowing directly to his nose and he winded me…I did EVERTYTHING known to man to cover my scent.  Should I invest in this clothing?  Thanks for your help!

Brent

Brent,

I had a couple of sets of hunting clothes that had silver incorporated into the cloth.  I used them on a back country elk hunt one time and was extremely impressed that the layer of clothes against my skin didn’t stink horrible when I returned home after a strenuous hunt in Colorado.  I have researched using silver to kill bacteria and have learned that it can control the growth of bacteria in some conditions.  However, the question is how fast it will control the bacteria growth (and resulting odor).  It seems such clothes will kill the bacteria and therefore limit the odor, but probably not instantaneously.

So, it makes sense that my clothes didn’t stink after I returned home from the elk hunt, but I did get busted by mature bull elk more than once on that hunt.  Based on what I know to date, my first line of defense for scent control is attempting to hunt with the wind in my favor.  I also try to keep clean and from producing additional odor.  I’m actively researching other options to reduce, control, or cover my scent.

If you find a reliable solution, please share with me!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Adding Lime During the Summer

Question
Dr. Woods,

This past season we were unable to apply any lime to our fields for pH control/adjustment and they do need lime.  Are there any negative aspects of applying lime in the summer?  I would like to have this complete by July or August to allow it to begin working by October, unless there is no real benefit or there is a negative effect of applying at this time.  Please let me know your thoughts on lime application in the summer months.

Thank you,

Darren

Darren,

Standard agricultural lime reacts very slowly to change the soil’s pH.  The only potential negative to adding lime during the summer is it can stress forage plants if it stays on the leaves for long periods of time.  This is a small consideration compared to the benefit of improving the soil’s pH.  If you have a beautiful crop of soybeans or other forage and no rain is expected, then I might consider waiting until rain is predicted to apply the lime.  Otherwise, the sooner the better!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Disk or No-till Drill

Question
Grant,

I am getting ready for planting fall food plots and usually plant a mix of brassicas/turnips with strips of oats.  I am looking to rent a Great Plains drill to get the job done but I am confused on how I should fertilize.  I usually spend many hours working the soil, then fertilize and then disk in before seeding.  I want to avoid working the soil but if I just top dress won’t I lose a lot of nitrogen?  I am in Michigan so Antler Dirt is not very conveniently located.  Waiting for rain is hard because I live a distance from my hunting land.  What would you do?

Thanks and love your show.

Brian

Brian,

If a current strategy is meeting the objectives, I don’t suggest changing your food plot preparation strategies in all the plots at once.  I realize it is a hassle to use two different food plot preparation strategies, but improvement usually results from experimentation.

With that said, I’ve used a no-till drill in many soil types with great success.  There is a trade-off of using a no-till drill and building up organic matter (which stores nitrogen) compared to disking which decreases organic matter and stored nitrogen.  I don’t know if the amount of commercial nitrogen that would volatilize is more or less than the amount of nitrogen stored in the form of organic matter in your situation.  However, overtime I’m confident the no-till drill option will yield better results.

Another variable is the type of nitrogen used in the commercial fertilizer blend.  Some types are much more volatile than others.

If soil moisture tends to be a limiting factor in your area, then the odds of success are stacked in favor of using a no-till drill as disking results in huge losses of existing soil moisture.  If the soil remains wet throughout the growing season, then disking may have an advantage over using a no-till drill.

I hope these guidelines help you make an informed decision.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Set Harvest Objectives

Question
Grant,

I have some questions about doe harvest goals and strategies.  How do you go about setting your harvest goals for The Proving Grounds?  Do you mainly base this on trail camera surveys and deer sightings?  Is your ultimate goal to have a 1:1 doe:buck ratio?

On our small farm in south central Kansas we have never practiced any kind of doe harvest.  We have loads of agriculture crops in the area and are able to grow a lot of big deer and carry them through the winter.  Very few people have permission to hunt any of the land within 3-4 square miles of us.  The more I learn about deer management the more I hear about doe:buck ratios and the more I wonder if I should be actively harvesting does.  I’m already planning to run a camera survey in August to see what I come up with, but I’m trying to get a strategy set for this hunting season.  Any information you can pass along on the subject would be great!

Thanks,

Bret

Bret,

Deer harvest goals should be based on the long-term management goals for a property.  My deer management objectives for The Proving Grounds include:

  1. Provide enough quality forage year round so each deer can express their full potential.
  2. A balanced or skewed toward bucks adult sex ratio to facilitate a synchronized fawn drop and an intensive rut for my guests and I to enjoy.

To meet these goals, I use utilization cages and monitor the amount of quality forage available during August and February/March.  If quality food is scarce during these times, I know I need to remove more adult does from the local herd.  I also monitor body weights, antler growth per age class, etc., to confirm that deer are or are not expressing their full potential.  Such analyses shouldn’t be made from one deer, but from an average of all observations.

I use trail cameras to collect data on the adult sex ratio, average antler development, fawn recruitment, etc.

On the buck side, my guests and I attempt to harvest bucks that are 4 ½ years old and older.  I make an exception for my children, which have the green light to harvest any deer that presents a safe opportunity.

In summary, I use several indicators to monitor the condition of the herd, and design my harvest program to achieve my herd and habitat management objectives.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Varieties for Moist Soils

Question
I live in upstate New York along the St. Lawrence River.  My property has better duck hunting than deer hunting because of a large swamp that keeps my woods very wet.  I have started making food plots that get okay sunlight, but the soil is usually moist.  What can I plant for late forage to keep deer there in fall?

Tom

Tom,

I design food plots to have an east/west orientation when creating them in areas with moist soils.  This will allow the maximum amount of sunlight and facilitate evaporating some of the excess moisture.

I’m not aware of any forage crops that are preferred by deer that do well in standing water or soil that is saturated with water.  If the soils at your plots typically dry up a bit during the fall, then winter wheat may work.  If they remain moist, then several of the white clover varieties tolerate moist soils as much as any forage crop.

Remember that most perennial clovers take a while to produce much tonnage.  Hence, it’s usually best to include a cover crop when establishing clover during the late summer or early fall.  I do not add a cover crop when establishing clover during the spring.

Some soils are simply too moist to consistently produce forage crops.  If that’s the case at your place, concentrate on providing other factors, such as cover, that are limited in your neighborhood

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Eagle Seed Beans

Question
Grant,

We are in disbelief. How is it possible for beans that were ate to the ground with nothing showing but a short bare stem to come back? A nice lady at Eagle Seed beans said folks have told her this before. My dad (a part-time farmer) said it wasn’t possible since the deer had ate the seed leaf. I’m so glad I talked dad out of tilling up the whole patch.

We are having a small drought right now and the Eagle Seed beans look 10 times better than ag beans. I’m sold on Eagle Seed beans.

Chad

Chad,

Great! Yes, the Eagle Seed beans have been selected to be extremely hardy! I mowed a patch last year to plant wheat. I left them for a week and when I returned the beans had begun growing back – in August!!!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Herbicide to Control Weeds in Clover

Question
Grant,

I am in southwest Missouri and I planted a clover plot back in mid-April. The clover is doing well, but there are quite a few weeds in it too. What can I do to get rid of the weeds?

Marti

Marti,

There is not a great option for controlling weeds in clover. Mowing will only serve to set back most species of grass (like mowing your yard). Pursuit herbicide will control some species of broadleaf weeds in clover, but can burn the clover a bit. This causes a bit of stress to clover, but shouldn’t kill it if applied per the guidelines in the label. 2,4-DB herbicide will also control some species of broadleaf weeds in clover when applied per instructions in the label. To see if either herbicide will control the targeted weeds, simply check the label for each herbicide online and compare the weeds each will control with the species of weeds in your plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Need to Rotate Eagle Seed Beans

Question
I have a question on Eagle Seed beans.  Can they be planted on the same plot for a couple years in a row or do they need to be rotated like ag beans?

Dick

Dick,

Crop rotation is an inexpensive method to reduce the potential of crop specific pests and diseases from becoming established in a field.  In addition, each type of crop tends to remove specific nutrients.  If the same crop is grown at the same site repeatedly, specific nutrients, especially micronutrients, will become depleted in that field.  I’ve grown Eagle Seed forage soybeans in the same field for up to three years without any noticeable detrimental impact.  The potential for negative results may be partially offset because I use Antler Dirt fertilizer which includes a broad range of trace minerals and promotes extremely healthy crops.  Healthy crops withstand attacks from pests and diseases better than stressed crops.

I do like to incorporate crop rotation into my food plot planning and establishment.  However, there are circumstances that prohibit rotating the crop every year.  If the soil is healthy and the crop vigorous, I haven’t seen any problem with maintaining a field in Eagle Seed soybeans for more than a year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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GrowingDeer.tv Merchandise

Question
Would it be possible to get some GrowingDeer.tv merchandise?

Thanks,

Lance

Lance,

The only GrowingDeer.tv merchandise so far is hats.  If you wish to purchase a hat just send us an email at info@growingdeer.tv (the cost is $10.00 each).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Fertilizer – Antler Dirt

Question
My hunting property is in south central Alabama.  We manage for larger, mature bucks and the soil is considered very good.  In addition, I’ve limed and have brought the pH to recommended optimum levels.  Will Antler Dirt make a substantial difference in my area for antler development? Is it still worth the investment?

Keith

Keith,

Antler Dirt is great fertilizer plus an excellent source of organic matter that contains soil building bacteria.  If the soil at your property is dark, includes plenty of organic matter, and you’re pleased with the crop yield, then it’s probably not worth the expense to ship it that far.

If your food plots have been used as logging decks, or other activities that tend to compact the soil, or you believe there is not a high level of humus or beneficial bacteria in the soil, then it may be worth investigating the shipping cost.  I have used the liquid version (called Tea) that includes the beneficial bacteria, but not the full amount of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous, trace minerals, and organic matter, when it was not convenient or was cost prohibitive to apply the much heavier composted product with good results.

The boys at Antler Dirt have been receiving requests for franchises.  You might check to see if a franchisee is close to your property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Button Buck Dispersal

Question
Does shooting a doe that has her buck fawn with her in early fall mean that that buck fawn will stay in that area rather than being pushed out by his mother?  If so, after years of this practice would inbreeding become a problem?

Thank you much for everything that you do on this site.  Can we get more episodes?  My week feels longer as I wait in anticipation for the next show, almost as bad as waiting to check a trail cam!!

Thanks much,

Ben

Ben,

Thanks for the kind words!  A fellow grad student while I was at the University of Georgia addressed this question by placing telemetry equipment on approximately 20 does that had male buck fawns (these were free-ranging deer).  He removed half of the does after their fawns were weaned.  In the group that he removed the does, most of the now yearling bucks survived the next hunting season compared to only one yearling buck from the group of does that were not harvested.  It appeared the high rate of survival was because this group of yearling bucks didn’t disperse.  The doe was not there to drive these yearling bucks out of their home range.  Other studies have shown similar, but not as significant results.

Although inbreeding is frequently blamed for poor antler development, low rates of fawn survival, and other undesirable characteristics, it has never been shown to be a problem in free-ranging, wild white-tailed deer.  The genetic make-up of white-tailed deer is extremely diverse.  I believe it would take many, many generations to result in a problem.  In fact, folks that hold deer in captivity use inbreeding among their herds in an effort to pass on desirable traits (so do beef farmers, dairy farmers, etc.).  I’m sure this could result in problems after several generations, but the odds of that happening for several generations in a free-ranging, wild population of deer are extremely low.  It is simply not a concern.  I and my clients have literally harvested 1,000’s of does during the course of my career and have been blessed to watch the herd quality improve in many quantifiable ways.

I strongly encourage you to harvest enough does to balance the local herd’s adult sex ratio and limit the herd’s density to a level that each deer has ample quality forage year round.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Where Should I Locate Small Ponds?

Question
Dr. Woods,

Over the past year or two I have thought about making a small watering hole on our property.  I found a spot where I might be able to put one in but I am not sure what to look for.  What I was going to try and do was put it near a drainage ditch.  We had some large pipes given to us, and I was hoping to use one of those to divert some of the water into the watering hole.  I had also thought about putting it back in the woods a bit, but then I would have no way for it to fill up besides by rainfall.

Another question I had is what kind of fertilizer do you put on clover, and when should you apply it?

Drew

Drew,

I much prefer hunting near ponds in cover versus in open areas.   Deer are usually more likely to use ponds located in cover during daylight.  It doesn’t take a large watershed to fill and maintain a pond designed to provide water for wildlife.  I’ve found ponds with a 15’ or so diameter and a depth of three feet on the deep end will hold enough water to not evaporate dry during most droughts.  I prefer my ponds located where they will be in the shade during the afternoon.  If the soil at the site where you wish to create the pond will not hold water (have enough clay content), then it will be necessary to add clay.  I usually purchase Bentonite from a local farm store for this purpose.  Bentonite is a type of clay that expands several times when wet and helps to seal the pond.

I always base fertilizer recommendations on a soil analysis from a good lab.  Clover is a legume so it requires very little nitrogen.  Clover will last much longer and be more palatable to deer if it has ample nutrients available.  Be sure and add plenty of phosphorous and potassium and the necessary trace minerals such as boron.  Many agricultural stores sell a 6-24-24 blend of fertilizer that can be used to add the proper amount of phosphorous and potassium to legumes such as clover.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in New Plots after Logging

Question
Hi Grant,

Great site, just found this today.  My father, brother and I just had two, 1 acre areas cleared to do our first food plots in Sullivan County, NY.

The loggers should be done pulling the stumps by tomorrow.  I’ve been reading as much as I can, but would love to know what your thoughts are on what our next step should be.  We took some soil samples and will be sending those out for analyzing.  Then I guess we will proceed with disking the plots, liming, and seeding.  I’d love to get something established for this first year.  I’m guessing a mix of clover and brassicas?

John

John,

Congrats on establishing the new plots!  All the activities that go with logging tend to compact the soil.  I’d strongly suggest ripping or fracturing the hard pan/compaction caused by the logging operation.  This is an additional expense, but can significantly increase the productivity of such sites for years!!  Remember that disking usually adds to compaction.  Disking will loosen the top few inches of the soil, but not the deeper portions where root development is critical.  Soil compaction is worse in soils with moderate to high clay content.

Once the soil compaction has been addressed, your plan sounds good!  Clover is slow to become established.  I suggest you consider adding wheat as a cover crop.  This is especially true if you wish to hunt these plots during the early bow season the first fall after establishment.  Seedling wheat is a good attractant if it is fertilized appropriately.  The clover will develop a good root system the first fall and produce much more forage the following spring.  Brassicas are a good addition to the blend.  However, they won’t provide the attractiveness during the early season that wheat would.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Prep after Subsoiling

Question
Recently I used a sub-soiler on my food plots.  I pulled the single point chisel about 12 inches deep and was pleased to see large thick layers of earth displaced.  My question is, do I not disk these plots or should I level with a chain harrow then disk?

Thank you for your time and I greatly enjoy your weekly programs on GrowingDeer.tv.

Again, thanks.

Gary

Gary,

You are wise to subsoil as part of preparing plots!!  This is especially true if there is much clay at that location.  The weight of the tractor and disk (especially the disk as all the weight is on the bottom of the disk blades) will serve to add compaction to the soil.  Therefore, if possible, consider spraying the appropriate herbicide (if necessary), adding the appropriate amount of fertilizer, and using a no-till drill to plant.  Many counties rent no-till drills at a very reasonable rate!  If planting a crop with a small-sized seed such as clover, it can simply be broadcasted onto the plot, especially just before rain is predicted.  If planting a large-sized seed such as soybeans or corn, higher rates of germination will occur if the seeds are covered at the appropriate depth (½” to 1” depending on soil type and available soil moisture).

Thanks for the kind words and I hope you enjoy much success with this project!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Protecting Eagle Seed Beans

Question
…continued…I think I hit send too soon….

I was really hoping I’d be able to broadcast some brassicas into the beans in late summer.  But that may not even be possible with the Eagle Seed Beans if they’re still green.

Should I fence at this late date?  When is it too late to get the benefit of fencing on beans?

Thank you,

Marty

Marty,

I’m not sure I received the first portion of your email.  I’ve experienced many times when the Eagle Seed forage beans remained green and productive until a frost, they simply remained too green to allow any seed broadcasted into the stand enough sunlight to germinate and grow before a frost.  I’ve learned that may be a great trait!  If the soybeans were planted early enough to have good pod development, they likely produced more yield in the form of pods (soybean seeds) than most cool season crops will produce.  For example, last year I mowed some maturing Eagle Seed forage beans during early August to kill them and plant wheat.  I mowed, left town for a week and returned to find the beans had resprouted!  This was amazing!  Of course the new sprouts were tender and succulent and the deer concentrated on that portion of the field.

I fertilized with Antler Dirt Tea and drilled wheat into the mown forage soybeans.  As the winter progressed, I realized that the seed pod yield on the adjoining beans was significantly more than the tonnage of wheat produced.  I went through the expense of mowing, fertilizing, purchasing seed, and planting to produce less and lower quality forage than the crop I mowed.  I learned my lesson and in fields where the forage soybeans produce a good yield of seed I’ll leave them standing.  Deer find the pods very palatable and extremely nutritious – full of energy and protein.  Eagle Seed forage soybeans that make a good seed yield are truly a two season crop!

I used a Gallagher Food Plot Protection System to protect some Eagle Seed Forage soybeans in two smaller plots and a corner of one larger plot this year.  I’m protecting the smaller plots so there will be ample forage/seeds to attract deer during the hunting season for my family.  I’m protecting a corner of the larger plot as I know deer prefer eating in this location during both the summer and winter.  I have plenty of forage nearby for the summer, so I wished to save the beans in my preferred hunting locations.  Based on the regrowth I observed after mowing the Eagle Seed beans last year, I’d be confident about seeing a positive result if the beans were protected by early July depending on available soil moisture and other factors that affect crop production.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Long to Protect Eagle Seed Soybeans

Question
Hello Grant,

I have 59 acres with an average deer herd.  I recently planted Eagle Seed Soybeans.  Of course the deer really liked them and the grazing pressure showed. Two weeks ago I put up a “plot saver” around it and it appears to be working.

How long would you recommend I leave the plot saver up?

Thanks,

Richard

Richard,

How long to protect the plot depends on the amount of expected browse pressure and your mission for the plot.  The higher the deer herd’s density relative to the plot’s size, the longer protection will be needed to allow the Eagle Seed forage soybeans to produce sufficient tonnage.  If the goal for the forage beans is to provide attraction during the hunting season, not nutrition during antler and fawn development, then protect the crop from browsing until a week before you plan to hunt.  If you don’t plan to hunt the crop until later in the season, I’d protect the crop until the bean pods have matured.  It’s tough to have a plot large enough to provide enough forage throughout the entire growing season and small enough to be ideal for hunting.  Protecting all or a portion of the plot from browsing is a good management plan.

Define your mission, and then you can determine the best option.  Let me know how it turns out!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plots to Attract Deer in New York

Question
Grant,

Due to the wet weather here in New York there are some fields that will not get planted in either corn or soybeans as it will be too late for them to mature.  I still want to plant something that will be a late season attractant for hunting in these areas.  My thoughts are to put in wheat and/or oats at a very late date so it does not get too tall and lose its attractiveness for the deer.  At what height is winter wheat or oats most attractive to deer?  I will try to time it right on planting based on what you recommend for maximum height.  Is there a better option?  I know clover will work, but they don’t have great luck for late season.  Brassicas are good but more costly than wheat or oats.

Eric

Eric,

I like wheat as most forage varieties are more cold hardy than oats.  Wheat fertilized appropriately is very palatable to deer and nutritious while it’s in the vegetative stage.  Once wheat begins to produce a stem, it decreases in both palatability and nutrition.  However, this occurs during the late spring, usually when other types of forage are available.  If you are leaving these areas as plots, it might be worth considering planting clover with the wheat.  Clover won’t be very productive during the first fall after it’s planted, but usually adds lots of biomass during the spring and is very attractive to both deer and turkey.  Clover is tough to kill with glyphosate, so if the plan is to return these fields to Round-up Ready soybeans or corn, I would suggestion not establishing clover.

Most forage brassicas are very cold hardy and palatable to deer, especially after a frost.  If mixing with wheat, I typically only add a pound or two of brassicas to the blend per acre.  Brassicas can be a great attractant during the mid and late hunting season.  Appropriately fertilized wheat is a fine food plot crop, but such plots can usually be enhanced, especially in northern states, by the addition of some forage brassicas.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Planting Rate for Oats and Clover Food Plots

Question
Grant,

I plan on establishing clover in some of my smaller plots (less than an acre) and along logging roads.  I planned on using forage oats and clover.  What rate of seed per acre would you recommend on oats and clover?  I want the oats to serve as a nurse crop and food attractant for deer this fall.  Late August or early September is my projected planting date for southern Virginia.

Reggie

Reggie,

I like to plant oats or wheat (small grain crops) as soon as there is ample soil moisture for forage production, after August 15 in your neighborhood.  This allows the crop to make more tillers (leaves) and a larger root system.  In addition, early planting allows oats/wheat to capture any nitrogen produced by previous crops, such as soybeans, or nitrogen left over from previous fertilizer applications.  Later plantings allow some of this nitrogen to volatilize or leach too deep for wheat seedlings to recover.

I have more experience with wheat.  When planting wheat for forage production, I plant it heavier than most recommendations that are geared toward establishing wheat to produce a grain harvest.  I usually recommend planting 200 pounds per acre when broadcasting and 125-150 pounds per acre when using a no-till or conventional drill.  This heavier seeding rate allows more leaves to be produced per acre during the fall and early spring.  However, the plant count per acre would be too high (too much competition) if the mission is to produce grain.

There are gads of clover varieties and the number of seeds per pound varies significantly.  Therefore, my recommendation for clover seeding rates is too generic to be of value to you.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Whitetail Antler Development

Question
What percent of antler growth has taken place by the 4th of July?  I have heard 2/3 to 3/4.

Thank you,

Matt

Matt,

I’m not aware of any published research about the percent to total antler growth by specific dates.  July 4th would be approximately the midpoint of the antler growth season throughout most of the whitetails’ range.  However, I’ve noticed some bucks seem to express a high percentage of their growth early while others appear to stack on the inches during the last portion of July.

This is much like humans.  For example, I was the second tallest kid in my fifth grade class. However, I wasn’t noticeably tall compared to other males in my high school class.  I gained height early while others grew later in their development cycle.

I’ve looked at 20,000+ Reconyx images during the past few weeks and I’d say some bucks have expressed ½ or more of their antler growth and others haven’t grown enough that I can identify them yet.  Unless I see something really unusual, I reserve estimating a buck’s antler potential until August.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Herbicide rates for controlling grass in clover

Question
I have a 52 acre farm in central Arkansas.

We have 2.5 acres in ladino white clover.  I purchased 1 gallon of Arrow this spring, but did not have time to apply.  At what rate of Arrow and surfactant did you use to spot spray?

Doug

Doug,

We try to follow the recommendations on herbicide labels.  This includes applying the herbicide to the weeds at the appropriate age/size, etc.  The label for Arrow recommends not applying the herbicide if conditions are not favorable for plant growth, such as hot and dry.  There are different recommendations based on the species of grass to be controlled.  We applied Arrow at the maximum rate recommended for fescue which was the primary grass we needed to control.

It’s tough to give exact counsel without knowing more details about which grasses and their current growth status.  I recommend you check out the label for Arrow and apply as recommended.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in Food Plots Near Production Agriculture?

Question
I only have 100 acres of land to manage.  I have put in four 1 acre food plots.  What should I be planting in them?  The farms around me already have beans and corn.

Jarvis

Jarvis,

You’re blessed to have production agriculture fields on the neighboring properties.  I’ll assume that there is plenty of quality warm season forage in the neighbor’s production soybean field.  If this is a correct assumption, then the real need is a crop to attract deer to your plots during the deer hunting season.  Standing corn and soybeans are both highly favored by deer.  However, it’s very likely these crops would be totally consumed during the growth stage as deer prefer foraging in one acre plots over large production fields.  It’s likely there would be no corn or soybeans in your plots come hunting season.  So to produce a crop in your plots I strongly suggest either planting corn and/or soybeans inside a Gallagher Food Plot Protector System electric fence or planting something less palatable and more browse resistant.

If you don’t wish to protect the crops in your plots till hunting season, then heavily fertilized wheat is a good attraction plot crop that should be planted about 45-60 days before the first expected frost.  If you are an avid turkey hunter, I recommend mixing some white clover with the wheat.  The clover won’t yield much browse during the fall it’s planted, but should have good growth during the following spring.  Turkeys readily consume lush clover and the insects associated with it during the spring!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Herbicide

Question
I recently purchased some clover and “Arrest” herbicide from The Whitetail Institute.  A buddy pointed out that this “Arrest” is simply sethoxydim — with a fancy name and package from this group.  He stated that this company is renowned for “marketing” and that I paid 400% more money for a product they market as specific for their “Imperial Whitetail Clover”.  The package seems to verify his comments.  An email I sent to the company has not yet been answered.  At the risk of potentially alienating you from another company, …did I pay 400% more for simply sethoxidym?

You stated (GDTV 30) that you just turned 49 and that you have been a field biologist for “30-something years”.  You must have started at a VERY early age…………

Barry

Barry,

I don’t currently, nor have I ever, worked for or with The Whitetail Institute.  I’ve never purchased Arrest, so I’m not familiar with the prices.  I regularly purchase herbicide from standard ag dealers.  It seems that’s where I find the best prices.

I began working for the BLM (Bureau of Land Management) stationed in Elko, NV while I was an undergraduate student.  My first summer job was monitoring the native plant species used by mule deer during the winter.  Those were fun days.  I could have probably made more money for college doing some other job, but the summers I worked for the BLM provided me tremendous opportunities to gain experience.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Pen Raised Deer

Question
Is there a way to increase enzymatic activity in the rumen so deer will eat more and/or absorb more thus becoming larger?  I see pen raised deer that are immature that still have nice racks.  I figure this is due to food consumption.  If he takes care of his body early, he is able to devote more of his energy to antler development.

Darren

Darren,

I don’t work much with captive deer herds.  There have been several experiments with feed additives in the cattle market with mixed success.  Using such additives for deer is too close to domestication for my preferences.   My personal passion is to manage free-ranging herds and habitat so they can express their potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Price of Gallagher Food Plot Protection System

Question
Did you discuss the price for the purchase of the electric fence?  My farm is along the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia and I have very few acres of bottom land, thus the deer hammer my food plots.  Whitetail Institute suggests that I don’t even attempt to plant their PowerPlant product unless I have 2-acres, as the deer pressure is high.  Thanks!

David

David,

I didn’t think to include price information during that episode. That would have been a practical piece of information to include.

The following are retail prices on the Gallagher Food Plot Protection Systems

Size Cost Cost
Per Acre
1 acre $1,012
3 acres $1,442 $480
5 acres $1,724 $345
15 acres $2,672 $178

I plan on producing 2 to 7 tons dry weight (all moisture removed) of forage per acre depending on the type of crop I’ve planted and the growing conditions.  You can use this to determine the price per pound of forage produced because the Gallagher Food Plot Protection System allowed the crop to grow.

The benefit of allowing the crop to grow and creating a great hunting location is an added value.  However, that value must be determined by each individual.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Proof Fence to Protect Tree Seedlings

Question
Grant,

How well would an electric fence work with tree seedlings?

Randy

Randy,

I’ve never used the an electric fence to protect seedlings, but it has been used to protect orchards, vegetable crops, etc.  The fence simply is a barrier.  If installed and maintained properly it works very well to exclude deer.  I don’t believe the type of forage inside the fence matters.  I’ve found the company reps to be very helpful.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Plant Forage Soybeans in Coastal South Carolina

Question
I am in coastal South Carolina and am interested in planting forage soybeans.  When is the best time to plant in my area and is it best to plant or drill seeds?

Thanks,

Kyle

Kyle,

Soybeans usually do very well if they are planted when the soil at 2 inches deep is 62 degrees and there is adequate soil moisture.  In coastal South Carolina, this usually means planting beans during mid-spring.  If soybeans are planted when the soil temperature is cooler, the seeds will be slow to germinate and may lack vigor after they sprout.  If planted when the soil temperature is much warmer (in the high 70’s or 80’s), the heat can cause the young plants stress and drought conditions are magnified as the higher temperatures cause rapid moisture evaporation from the soil.  Planting when the soil temperature is 62 degrees also allows the soybeans to germinate during a time when native herbaceous vegetation is usually at peak quality.  This serves to reduce the browse pressure deer will direct toward the immature soybean plants.  If soybeans are planted later during the growing season, much of the native vegetation will have matured and decreased in quality.  This focuses much more browse pressure on the newly established beans and makes it difficult for them to survive.

However, it’s difficult to always be prepared to plant at the best times.  This is especially true since the “best time” will be slightly different each year depending on local weather conditions.  I recently started a new project in coastal North Carolina.  I didn’t receive the contract till June 1st.  We planted 53 acres of beans during the second week of June.  They germinated and are growing, but I’m very worried about drought conditions due to the sandy soil where we planted.  Next year, I’ll be geared up to plant at that location much earlier.

Since it is about impossible to cover soybean seed the appropriate depth by broadcasting and then attempting to cover the seed, I strongly prefer using a drill (no-till or conventional if seedbed is has been prepared) to plant soybeans or any large sized seed.  Soybeans need to be covered with ½” to 1” of soil, depending on the soil’s texture and available soil moisture.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which are the most important minerals to provide for whitetails?

Question
Grant,

I was wondering, could you take a minute to talk about minerals, antler development and the overall health of whitetail deer?  I was in a pretty serious debate with another fellow hunter the other day about minerals and am looking for more input on the subject.

When looking for a product what should we look for it to contain?  A friend of mine uses a product that is full of calcium and phosphorous.  Everything you read says these are the two single most important minerals for antler development.  I was also taught that those two minerals are usually very available in most areas, with about 80% of the calcium they need being available through the food they eat.  Some may think that the more you give them the better off, but is it true that they can only use so much of one mineral, just like humans?  I can take three mutli-vitamins per day but my body will turn any excess into waste.  If that is true in deer than it’s a waste to give them what they can get in their environment and better to focus on minerals and nutrients that are not available to them.

I also want to get your thoughts on salt as a vessel.  No deer is going to consistently come back to just mineral so you need an attractant or something that tastes good so they will come back as much as possible and get the benefits.  Isn’t it true that during spring and throughout the summer deer have a sodium deficiency?  Although a lot of sodium year round probably isn’t good for anyone, is it good during the key times of year when they need more mineral?  I had someone say that if you give them a lot of salt then they will drink more water and then you’ll have deer full of water.  That doesn’t make any sense to me, I thought water was good.

I am sure I gave you enough here to think and write about.  Thanks for taking to the time to answer my question and thanks for putting the show out every week.

Tim

Tim,

The answer to your question is probably better material for an article or book chapter than this format.  There is a good chapter, Mineral Supplementation for Antler Production, in Quality Whitetails, The Why and How of Quality Deer Management book.  I just filmed a webinar at Clemson University for QDMA on this subject.  I’m not sure when and where that webinar will be released in the future.

I agree with your statements.  However, we should all be aware that there is no definitive evidence that supplementation of any mineral will increase antler production in wild, free-ranging deer (or captive deer).  Almost all plant material contains some calcium, phosphorous, etc.  Sometimes it is in a digestible form and sometimes it’s not.  Many of the record book deer harvested didn’t have access to supplemental minerals.  However, most record book deer harvested have had access to production agriculture crops (corn, soybeans, alfalfa, wheat, etc.).  These crops were most likely grown on relatively good soil and had been fertilized appropriately.  They most likely contained a much higher and more digestible mineral content that native browse grown in primarily timbered areas.  Such crops are almost always more digestible than native vegetation, except when the native vegetation is very young.

So, if I lived where production agriculture was the prevalent use of the land, I wouldn’t be as concerned about providing supplemental minerals on my land.  However, just as there is no scientific documentation that supplemental minerals will increase the average antler size, there is certainly no evidence that they will harm the herd or decrease average antler size.  Supplemental minerals are relatively inexpensive, so I always advise my clients to provide them where legal.

The next question is which minerals to provide.  Where I live, and most of the properties where I work, have a good food plot program with the crops being limed and fertilized to promote maximum forage production.  Given this, I’m not worried about deer ingesting enough calcium or phosphorous.  I am concerned about the potential of some trace minerals not being available.  Most fertilizer programs don’t address trace mineral needs.

This is one reason why I like to use Trophy Rock to as a mineral supplement.  Trophy Rock has been analyzed and confirmed to contain 60+ trace minerals.  You are correct that a small vitamin pill will provide 100% of most minerals adult humans need on a daily basis.  In fact, the pills could be smaller.  Much of the pills are filler so we can handle them without dropping them.  Clearly, a deer licking a Trophy Rock a few times a day will most likely ingest all the quantity of the available trace minerals they need.

Most deer ingest a huge amount of water during the spring and summer simply from the plant material.  Quality forage plants during this time contain as much as 70% water by weight.  To rid their body of this excess ingested water, they must have salt for a critical process in the kidney (the details are too technical for this format).  Deer clearly seek salt, either from sources supplied by humans or naturally occurring licks.

I believe that there’s more of a chance that salt is a limiting factor than deer will ingest excess salt.  Clearly deer survive in areas where no supplemental salt is supplied.  However, I doubt they express their full potential unless there is a readily available, naturally occurring source of salt.

In summary, I’d rather supply supplemental minerals than not.  Deer herds without supplemental minerals have and will exist.  I doubt these herds express their full potential.  Unless it is known that an area is very low in a specific mineral (which does occur), I’d rather provide a supplemental mineral that includes a wide range of trace minerals which are much more likely to be missing from the available forage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shade Tolerant Food Plot Crops

Question
I really enjoy your show and I have a couple of questions for you.  We have a new lease and are very limited to having any openings. What grows good, or better than normal, in an all shaded area?  We have about 95% timber (strip-mined ground) and have made a few little openings with chainsaws and a brushog.  What do you advise us to plant this late summer/early fall for the deer that we want to bowhunt?  Obviously, we are saturated with rain and are still trying to get some soybeans planted, but the weather doesn’t look good for us here in north-central Missouri.  It looks like a fall blend is what we are going to get planted.  We have a 20 acre field we were going to plant our beans in, but it is still flooded.

Thanks again and keep up the good articles!

Ben

Ben,

White clovers and brassicas are about as shade tolerant as any food plot crops I’ve grown.  No forage crops grow well in standing water.  White clovers seem to handle moist soils as good as any of the standard forage crops.  White clovers are also relatively shade tolerant.  I’ve grown great stands of white clover in narrow logging roads with a closed canopy, etc.

Likewise, the big leaves of a brassicas plant intercept a lot of sun and I’ve grown great brassicas crops in areas with less than 50% sunlight.

Unless your site dries up soon, I’d be preparing for planting during August.  This means having the available soil nutrients analyzed, buying fertilizer and seed, and preparing the site ahead of time.  At minimum, I like to plant at least 45 days ahead of the first expected frost or 20 days before I plan to hunt.

Don’t forget that planting soybeans during August can create incredible hunting opportunities. Young soybeans plants are as palatable, and attract deer, during the first of archery season as well as any plant I’ve tried.  The first frost will kill them, but until then plots with young soybeans growing usually are the best hunting locations in the neighborhood!  These soybeans don’t need to be roundup ready as weed competition isn’t usually a concern during the fall if the plot is weed free when planted.  Hence, I usually can find non-roundup ready soybeans at a good price during the fall.  It’s fine to plant them with other crops as they will be consumed by deer or killed by the first frost, so they are not competition for more cold hardy crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Elevator Ridges

Question
Dr. Woods,

Recently while watching one of your archived videos I believe I heard you use the phrase “elevator ridge.”  Can you please amplify this phrase with additional information?  Also, I would appreciate any other insight you can add from time to time throughout the year about other terrain features and how they can affect whitetail travel and behavior.

Thank you for providing such an informative and entertaining site!

David

David,

“Elevator ridges” is simply a term I use to describe side ridges or slopes that allow deer to travel from bottomlands to ridge tops or vice versa.  Usually primary ridges (ridges with the highest elevation in an area) will have smaller (shorter in length) ridges that join them at a perpendicular angle.  These secondary ridges (elevator ridges) provide access on/off the primary ridges that is less steep that simply climbing the ridge.  There are usually lots of rubs and other sign on elevator ridges.  Elevator ridges that terminate into a quality food source, bedding area, or other desirable feature with limited distribution are usually great stand locations.

Typically I like to hunt near the top of elevator ridges as it’s very difficult to predict wind direction in the valleys due to thermals.  I like stand locations as close to the top of the ridges as possible with the elevator ridge remaining narrow enough to serve as a bottleneck so deer remain in shooting range.  Elevator ridges can be easily located by using topo maps then scouting to confirm site-specific features.  If you hunt in areas with ridge and valley topo, elevator ridges usually offer great stand sites, especially during the rut.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Which Variety of Eagle Seed Forage Soybeans?

Question
What types of Eagle Soybeans do you like to plant?  I noticed they had a bunch of different flavors and I was wondering which type or types you were using on the Proving Ground and why?

Toxie

Toxie,

I have planted all of the Eagle Seed forage soybean varieties and mixes.  In fact, I have the Game Keeper RR, Large Lad RR, and Big Fellow RR planted at The Proving Grounds now.  Game Keeper RR is a great mix that is good for covering all the bases.  Large Lad RR is very browse tolerant.  I like it for smaller plots where over browsing may be a concern.  Big Fellow RR is a bit more drought resistant.  I like it on the rocky ridge tops here at The Proving Grounds.

I simply try to match the variety’s and site’s characteristics to maximize the crops and the consumers (deer’s) potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Learning at The Proving Grounds

Question
Dr. Grant,

I am a member of QDMA and am interested in the Deer Steward Courses, but usually they are not offered in the Midwest.  Will The Proving Grounds ever be a show case for this program some day?

Bryan

Bryan,

The QDMA Deer Steward Courses are great programs!  Matt Ross with the QDMA and I have discussed scheduling one at The Proving Grounds, but we don’t have any definite plans yet.  We do host tours at The Proving Grounds with each tour designed to address specific questions by the attendees.  In addition, we will be hosting a field day during late August this year.  It will be limited to the first 100 folks that enroll.  We’ll spend the entire day seeing, touching, and learning about wildlife and habitat management and our hunting strategies for the upcoming season.  That evening we’ll all gather for a meal, seminar, and some great prizes.  There will be representatives from companies that produce many of the products we use.  We’ll be posting more information soon.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Details about Food Plot Protection Fences

Question
Good episode on Gallagher Fencing (GDTV 29).  One thing that would be helpful is a little more detail on the energizer types best suited for food plots.  It’s easy to get pumped up and start searching the internet for the best pricing and not get the most appropriate one, i.e. one that goes into sleep mode at night (like I did).

It would also be helpful to show how all the wires hook up to the energizer and the pros and cons of the various types of wire/tape, pollywires vs. turbo etc…

It is great to see such interesting and applicable topics about things that really work.

Phil

Phil,

Good questions!  To insure I supplied you with the correct technical information, I asked Erwin Quinn, president of Gallagher USA, to address your question.  He replied…

We have a general rule of thumb regarding energizers and wildlife, and that is to use a minimum of a 1 joule, low impedance energizer.  This is the “general rule of thumb” because we deal with wildlife in different environments, with different population densities, with different human interaction experiences and with varying successes or failures with previously tried fences or exclusion devices, so we deal with a world of exceptions.  If we have food plots exceeding 15 acres, or extremely high deer populations, or drought conditions where the food plot is the only green vegetation in existence, or deer that have successfully breached prior attempts at fencing a food plot, we then need to move up in energizer power.  In all cases we want to avoid solar or battery energizers that go into a sleep or night mode to preserve battery life at night because almost everything we want to control is nocturnal and we need maximum power with minimum pulse interval at night.  110 volt, battery or solar, doesn’t make any difference because a joule is a joule regardless of what electrical source it is generated from; but the lowest cost per output will always be 110 volt.

Your question regarding which conductor to use is tied for the #2 reason for food plot failures.  #1 is energizer selection, #2 is improper grounding and/or the use of an inadequate conductor.  Because it is the fence is the conductor of the “shock’ that is going to make the fence work?  You want the most highly conductive product available.  Polywire has become a generic term for anything containing an electrical conduction filament, with no requirements on its conductivity or standardization on its construction.  As a result, there are “polywires” on the market with three conductive filaments and others with up to eight filaments; some are stainless, some aluminum, some copper, some mixed metals.  Don’t buy anything with less than six conductive filaments and whenever possible use the “turbo” products which are 40 times more conductive than polywire.  Because the initial success of a food plot fence is its visual awareness to the animal being controlled, which in turn stimulates the inquisitive nature of all animals, we want to use 1/2 inch tape in the external fence of all applications.

Thanks for your interest!

Thanks Erwin for addressing Phil’s question.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Alternate Food Plot Crop

Question
Have you ever planted peanuts or sweet potatoes for deer?  I hear peanuts grow big bucks and sweet potatoes really draw in the deer.  How do peanuts compare to soybeans?

I really enjoy your site.  I too found out about it from Bill Winke’s site.

Thanks,

Chad

Chad,

The vegetative portion of peanuts can be (if fertilized appropriately, etc.) a high quality forage.  In fact, the forage is very similar in quality to alfalfa (it is sometimes called Florida’s alfalfa).  Peanut forage can be very high or very low, depending on the stage of development.  However, peanuts are only productive in specific soil types.  The same is true for sweet potatoes.  In addition, both require specialized management practices to express their potential. So they are best used as a production crop rather than a food plot crop where specialized management is rarely practical.

I’d gladly hunt near either peanuts or sweet potatoes where they are commercially produced.  However, I’d rather plant crops that are easier to manage in a food plot situation.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Color Variations in the Wild

Question
Great Website!  I enjoy the information.  I find myself more attracted to shows and sites that provide me information on how I can be more successful.  I have seen enough shows of harvesting animals.

Now for my question, I filmed a bronze (reddish) hen this spring and wanted to know what you thought made her like this?  I really enjoy filming and doing a little writing.  She is truly God’s beautiful creation and so unique.  I was very happy to get her on film.

What are your thoughts?

Toxie

Toxie,

Congratulations on capturing such a unique observation on video.  A wild critter’s coloration is critical to their survival.  There are white tadpoles born, but they rarely survive because predators can find them much easier than normal colored tadpoles.  This is probably why wild critters usually have much less variation in skin and hair color compared to humans.  Variation in color usually means a higher likelihood of being consumed by a predator.  The hen you filmed obviously has a pattern that allows her to be just as successful at avoiding predation as a normal hen color.

Thanks again for sharing footage and your appreciation of God’s creation!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trail Camera Techniques for Scouting Deer

Question
Dear Grant,

A simple question: Can you use trail cameras too much or in the wrong areas?

Kevin

Kevin,

Deer become conditioned to avoid disturbance.  The more sensitive the area, like a bedding area, the less disturbance deer will tolerate.  I typically place my trail cameras in open areas that deer use nocturnally, such as large food plots.  By monitoring several large food plots I can predict where deer are traveling from based on the data and position my stand appropriately.  I call this connecting the dots.  I avoid placing the cameras where I hunt to minimize disturbance.  This strategy has worked for me.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How I Use Trophy Rock

Question
I see you are a fan of Trophy Rock.  I have been using it for over 15 years now.  The application process of placing it on a flat rock is something I have never done.  So I am wondering, have I been using the Trophy Rock incorrectly all these years?  We usually place the Trophy Rock in a flat area where trails seem to converge.  We scrape a spot out and sometimes dig a little then put the rock in that spot.  We then set up a camera to see what is visiting the spot.  Any suggestions to use it better?  Do your deer lick, paw or eat the dirt around the Trophy Rock that has been on the flat rock?

Jim

Jim,

I do like Trophy Rock on large flat  rocks in areas of high deer usage.  If I place the Trophy Rock by a water source I always place it downhill from the water source, so it doesn’t leak directly into the water.

I have literally thousands of pictures of deer licking the rock.  There is certainly evidence that deer will paw, or likely consume, the dirt where the Trophy Rock has leaked off the rock I have placed it on.  My objective is for the deer to consume Trophy Rock to obtain a full complement of trace minerals.  In addition, it is probably a bit more sanitary to place the Trophy Rock up on a non-permeable surface compared to placing it directly on the ground.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Establishing Food Plots on Mountain Roads

Question
Dear Dr. Woods,

I am writing with a question about planting old haul roads in mature woods with something to concentrate the deer on a very large piece of property in West Virginia.  I am dealing with literally many, many square miles of mature hardwood forest.  The mature timber canopy keeps much of the area in the shade throughout the day.  The deer are sparsely located in pockets.  However, there are some truly great bucks lurking in the remote parts of this land.

The property is very remote and very steep and rough.  The only agriculture for several miles would be a few small vegetable garden plots near the perimeter of the property.  It is located in one of our four “bow hunting only” counties.  It has some great deer but is very difficult to hunt.

I would like the benefit of your insight to determine what could be done in certain areas to enhance them and make them attractive for deer to use and for me to hunt.

Thanks in advance for your help!  I really like your new website.  I found out about it from Bill Winke’s Midwest Whitetail site.

Thanks again,

David

David,

I have worked a lot in very similar habitat and agree with all of your observations.  I have found that most white clovers are relatively shade tolerant and I have used them on haul roads in the mountains of North Carolina with great success.  I would suggest planting some North South strips on roads in your dryer site to capitalize on the shade that is available.  Then plant strips East West on your wetter sites to capitalize on the sun’s ability to evaporate soil moisture.

Have a soil test done to determine what nutrients are necessary to establish a healthy clover field.  Clover is relativity easy to establish in such situations, I simply remove the dust/debris and living vegetation from the road by raking, etc.  Then I proceed to broadcast the fertilizer and then the seed.  Try to pick roads with very little slope so the fertilizer will not be washed away during periods of heavy precipitation.  Fertilizer not only makes plants more nutritious but also more palatable for deer.  It will attract deer in areas with low-populations densities.

After going through the hard work, I know it is tempting to hunt there all the time but mountain deer tend to be very leery and overhunting will most certainly make them nocturnal.  It is better to have more locations rather than establishing all your food in one area as this will allow more hunting opportunities while spreading out the hunting pressure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Does Dr. Woods offer wildlife and deer management consulting services?

Question
I have purchased an 863 acre farm in western Kentucky for hunting and recreation.  Would Dr. Woods be interested in helping me turn it into a place like The Proving Grounds?

Keep up the great work on GrowingDeer.tv, I watch the video clips as soon as they hit my inbox!

Thanks,

Stephen

Stephen,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  My staff and I really enjoy developing site-specific wildlife and habitat management plans that meet the landowners’ objectives.  These plans are based on our experiences with our clients land and here at The Proving Grounds.  We have been providing wildlife and whitetail research and consulting for over twenty years to both private and corporate landowners.  We know what works and what doesn’t and are happy to share that knowledge through GrowingDeer.tv and private consultations.  Please call our office at 417-334-3441 to schedule a consultation.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Starting a Deer Management Plan

Question
Dear Grant,

First of all I just want to say thanks for all you do for deer management.  I watch all your videos and really enjoy the info.

I have several thousand acres right in the heart of the northern Arkansas rocky Ozark Mountains.  I am attempting to manage it with a large JD tractor, plow, disc and brush hog.  I am trying to get started off on the right foot with crops.  We have 9 food plots that have all been planted with an orchard grass and ladino clover mix within the last 8 years.  Other than that, just a few open pasture areas and the rest is hardwoods and some pine forest.  Rocks and soil conditions are a big problem.  I do have some motivated help now and am getting a little more time on my hands.  I would love to be able to get started on some corn and soybean plots as well as wheat and clover patches.  We have a year round spring that runs in the middle of the property with a few good bottoms.  My question is… Where would you suggest I start and where would you go from here?  I have a lot on my plate and need to get things going.  Thanks so much for any help and again, keep up the good work!

Zeke

 

Zeke,

When I start a new management program my first mission is to define the long-term objectives of the landowner.  There is not a right or wrong deer management strategy just different strategies to met different objectives.  All management plans should be based around the three limiting factors of food, cover and water.  I try to identify the site-specific limiting factors and address those issues first.

Orchard grass and other pasture grasses are not consumed by deer.  It sounds as if food is a potential limiting factor for you.  If so, the first step would be to remove the orchard grass and replant with something more nutritious and palatable to deer.  Soil fertility is always a consideration in the Ozarks and I would strongly suggest collecting soil samples from the existing plots and having them analyzed so the appropriate nutrients can be added.

Any deer management plan is a balancing act between the landowners’ objective of deer-herd quality, the amount of deer on the property and the amount of quality forage available.  A simple way to begin monitoring those relationships is to begin placing utilization cages in the existing plots.  This will allow you to see if there is more food being produced than the deer can consume, or if the opposite is true and the deer are consuming all the quality food.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Manure as Fertilizer

Question
Hello Grant,

Have you made use of good old fashion manure as a fertilizer?  I am aware of the Antler Dirt product but was curious about spreading manure from everything from poultry to horses.  What are your thoughts?

Joe

Joe,

I have used raw poultry litter, cow manure, and horse manure as fertilizer.  Whenever using any source of fertilizer it is best to know the analysis which will allow you to know the amount of nutrients available.  Knowing the amount of nutrients available is critical so you know how much to put down.  There is always a chance of introducing pests or even disease when using raw manure vs. composted products.  However, these problems can usually be avoided by obtaining manure from clean sources.  Manure from sources with unclean barns is likely to have pests or disease present.  However, if the barn is kept clean I would have no problem using it.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Buck Addiction

Question
There is a fairly new seed company out of Thayer, Missouri called Buck Addiction.  I’ve been asked about the seed by quite a few customers and was hoping you could shed some light on it for me.  Have you tried any of their products?  Do you know anything about them?  Supposedly their products are supposed to be great for my rocky Taney County soil.

Lance

Lance,

I am not familiar with the company or their product.  I look forward to hearing from you if you do experiment with them.  Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Alternate Crops to Substitute for Food Plot

Question
Dear Grant,

I own 109 wooded acres in west central Pennsylvania.  It is surrounded by mostly wooded tracts of land with little agriculture nearby.  There are three streams that run through the property, lots of thick cover (mountain laurel and rhododendron) and I have established a sanctuary.  I have some small food plots that I am still developing in the few open areas accessible with my tractor.  I also make mineral/protein blocks available.

I am trying to better develop my food plot system but my biggest hurdle is the amount of suitable area to plant.  My question is concerning the possibility of optional plantings outside of the typical food plots we all hear about.  Other than fertilizing existing mast trees or planting new fruit/mast trees,  is there any other type of vegetation that makes sense to try to establish?  Prescribed burning is intimidating and probably not a good option for me.

I am trying to make my property as attractive as I can due to its small size, so please give any suggestions you can.  My brother harvested a 140 class last year, but those guys are very rare in my area of Pennsylvania.  This has motivated me even more to do the best management job possible.

Thank you very much,

Nestor

Nestor,

This is a common problem for those of us that don’t manage land in the ag belt.  If rural land is not in crops or pasture, it is usually covered with trees.  I’m not aware of any alternative crops that will provide an adequate quantity of quality food to make an impact on a deer herd in a timbered environment.  Trees simply don’t provide enough fruit and mast for many, many years after establishment to justify the expense and upkeep to establish them.  I enjoy planting and watching trees develop, but I don’t count on them as part of my nutrition management plant.

I have the same problem at The Proving Grounds – limited suitable acres for crop forage and grain production.  I combat this problem by making the small portion of open land available as productive as possible, and limit the deer herd’s density to the number of deer that I can provide ample quality forage for.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Too Late to Plant Clover in Ohio

Question
Dr. Grant,

I have a question concerning clover and planting dates here in the Midwest (specifically Ohio).  I am trying to establish a white clover mix of Alice clover and Kopo II clover on some trails that lead to a destination food plot.  I limed earlier this month and hit the trails with Glyphosate about 2 weeks ago.  Can you successfully plant clover this late in the Midwest (June) or should I wait and plant in late summer (August) by using a cover crop like cereal grains?  Will the summer time heat hurt the young clover seedlings if planted in June?

Thanks for the help!

Darron

Darron,

It is very late to plant clover, unless you are in the very northern part of Ohio and ample precipitation occurs during the rest of June, July, and August.  If the weather is hot and dry, the young clover plants will simply die.  They won’t have enough of a root system established to reach moisture deeper in the soil profile.  I’d recommend waiting till late summer/early fall (at least 45 days before the first expected frost) and plant clover with a cover crop of wheat.  This may mean you have to spray again to remove any weeds.  Young clover is not a good competitor with weeds.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Controlling Volunteer Soybeans in Plots

Question
Grant,

I read your post about planting corn and wondered if you could mix Atrazine with the Gramoxone.  The reason is that I have a field that was in beans last year and now some volunteer beans are coming up, but like you said they are competing with my corn seedlings.  Do you think this mix would work to kill the worms and kill off the beans?

Thanks!

Aaron

Aaron,

Gramoxone is an herbicide designed to kill all vegetation on contact.  It is not designed to kill insects.  Gramoxone is a good choice to remove all vegetation before planting a field.  However, it is not selective and shouldn’t be used after the desired crop has germinated.  Atrazine can control volunteer soybeans in germinated corn crops.  A consideration is that if Atrazine is used after mid-June, only corn or grain sorghum should be planted the following year.  There may still be some ground activity from the Atrazine that would damage a crop of soybeans.  Always check herbicide labels for detailed information.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plots Planted with a Mix of Corn and Soybeans

Question
In viewing some of your pictures, it appears that you plant corn and soybeans together.  I am aware of the benefits of legumes, like soybeans, “making” their own nitrogen, thus helping corn, but I am concerned that:

  • There will be more competition for nutrients if corn and beans are planted together
  • That I would have to “half” the corn and beans so as not to have this competition
  • The corn could shade out the beans when it grows above 2′ in height

Do you have any thoughts or advice to offer?

Barry

Barry,

The corn stalks you saw mixed with beans were volunteer corn.  All the crops at The Proving Grounds are planted strictly for wildlife.  That is to say none of them are harvested.  Hence, there are usually a few volunteer stalks of corn or beans from the previous crop.  I don’t plant corn and beans together any more.

Years ago I used to mix and plant corn and soybeans in the same field.  However, a bigger yield can be produced by planting either corn or soybeans and managing the field for maximum production of the specific crop.  In addition, the nitrogen produced by beans is a form that is relatively stable in the soil.  That is to say that most of it will remain there till the next crop utilizes it.

It is always a good practice to rotate crops.  Many diseases and pests that are specific to either corn or soybeans can be controlled by simply planting another crop for at least a year in that field.  Hence, if you have a problem with corn, that disease/pest won’t have corn to feed on if soybeans are planted in that field the next year.

Corn typically produces twice too three times as much grain per acre as soybeans.  I usually plant about 2/3’s of my corn/bean acreage in soybeans and 1/3 in corn.  I rotate the location of each crop annually (sometimes I plant beans in the same field two years in a row), but maintain the same overall ratio.  This practice works well on several properties I manage.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Attract Deer to Small Acreage

Question
Hey Grant,

I live in Ohio where I just bought 33 acres (southern Ohio).  8 acres is 2 fields in the MIDDLE of the woods.  I have woods all around me also.  Nearest crop field is 300 yards or more away.  I want all the deer in the area in MY area.  Lol! What do I plant?  How much do I plant?  Will standing corn act as a sanctuary for deer?

THX!

Brent

Brent,

Congratulations on purchasing land!  It sounds as if the neighbors will do a good job of providing quality forage during the summer.  Hence, you need to concentrate on providing the best food in the neighborhood during the hunting season.  It’s very tough to beat standing corn and soybeans as a source of nutrition and as an attractant for white-tailed deer.  If the number of deer is relatively high in your neighborhood, then the local herd could consume all the food in your plots before hunting season – especially if the neighboring crops are harvested before or during hunting season.

A great tool to prevent that from happening in your situation is an electric fence!  A design using a two-layer system is very effective at excluding deer from desirable crops.  Then, simply remove the fence when you wish to begin hunting.

I’m putting up some fencing to protect some smaller plots at The Proving Grounds today (June 1st).  Then, I’ll remove the fence just before I wish to hunt those plots.  This technique creates fabulous hunting hotspots!

Yes, standing corn works well as a sanctuary for deer!  I call standing corn an annual forest.  In areas where corn is grown commercially and typically harvested well before the end of deer season, standing corn crops can be the preferred food and cover source in the neighborhood!  Remember that when deer bed and feed in the same plot, they are very difficult to hunt.  In this situation, it is critical to not overpressure the plot and approach the area with caution!!  Knowing where deer bed is one thing.  Knowing how to approach and hunt that area is another.

It sounds as if you can create a fabulous hunting spot!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Swatting Porcupines

Question
Have you done any porcupine swatting lately, or have you gotten to old?  Remember Weller Mountain, 1990?

Steve

Steve,

Those were some fun days!  No, I haven’t collected any porcupine quills using the swatting technique lately.  I did trap two skunks earlier this year (GDTV 10).  My trapping partner, Bill, got sprayed while dispatching one of the skunks.  I’m not sure I filmed that, as I was insuring the camera didn’t get sprayed.  Bill says I was simply running the other way!  I guess I did forget to grab the camera as I was moving upwind.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Important are Deer Sanctuaries?

Question
Dr. Woods,

We have been managing our property of 200 acres for 11 years now.  We purchased an old farm and turned it into a little white-tailed deer paradise.  We also built our dream home on the land. We practice antler restrictions, food plots, timber stand/habitat improvement and an aggressive doe harvest program.  We have an ideal layout on our land.  We created a 50 acre sanctuary in the middle of the property which is surrounded by several food plots, hardwoods and thickets.  We stand hunt only, and never hunt in the sanctuary.  We like to put little hunting pressure on our deer.  After reading through my deer logs, it seems now that 80% of deer movement revolves around this sanctuary.  I was wondering if you have a sanctuary set up on your land, and if you do, what are some of the benefits you have seen?

I am a HUGE fan of your show Dr. Grant!!

Thank You,

Brian

Brian,

Sounds like you have a very successful deer and habitat management program!  Like you, I’ve created sanctuaries at The Proving Grounds and commonly design them on land we manage for clients.  Deer readily adapt to using these areas, especially if there aren’t other sanctuaries within their home range.  Sometimes it’s tough to convince hunters not to disturb a portion of their hunting turf.  However, as you have experienced, not disturbing a portion of the land you have to hunt makes patterning deer on the remaining portion of the property much easier!  Thanks for sharing your observations!!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Soil Test Labs

Question
I did not get my new place in time to get a plot in.  Now I need to get a kit and send a soil test in.  Do you have a couple recommendations to send it to?  Keep up the good work.

Jay (North Dallas)

Jay,

Having the soil in a plot analyzed and determining what minerals need to be added to maximize crop production and health is a critical step in establishing and maintaining quality food plots!  There are two steps that will help to insure you get good results.  First, make sure the sample is collected appropriately.  This requires collecting a lot of subsamples in a clean container and then collecting a sample from the subsamples that represent the entire plot.

Second, make sure to tell the lab what crop you wish to plant and that you want a maximum yield.  There is a huge difference between the mineral needs of different crops.  For example, clover doesn’t require much nitrogen while wheat requires a significant amount of nitrogen.  Both of these are common food plot crops.  Hence, if you tell the lab you plan to establish a food plot, but don’t specify the crop you wish to produce, they can’t provide you with an accurate recommendation.

Collecting and submitting good samples and informing the lab of the specific crops you wish to plant is critical to receiving an accurate recommendation.

I use Waters Ag to analyze soil samples.  I label each sample and inform the lab of the specific crop I wish to produce and that I want a recommendation for a maximum crop yield.  The healthiest fawns and biggest antlers can’t be produced unless they are consuming a very healthy diet.  Learning what minerals to add to the soil is an easy and critical step to assisting your herd to express its maximum potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When to Mow Clover

Question
My clover is heading out (white flowers).  Is this or vegetation more beneficial for deer to consume?  I have seeded the roadway and trails throughout my farm with clover.  The clover is 8 inches tall and I am afraid to cut it.  What would you suggest?

Thanks,

Tom

Tom,

Deer rarely consume the flower portion of clover.  They prefer the fresh growing vegetative portion of the plant – specifically the leaves.  Mowing will encourage production of new leaves.  I’ll be mowing my clover as soon as it is dry enough.  I don’t mow when it is wet as the cut vegetation tends to remain in clumps and shade out the vegetation beneath the clumps.  I also don’t mow clover during periods of stress such as drought, etc.

In practical terms, I mow clover at least once during the spring, and maybe twice, depending on the variety and growing conditions.  I don’t like white clover to be more than 30% flower as this indicates a lot of energy being used to produce flowers versus new leaves – the forage deer desire and will benefit from.

Remember that deer remove huge amounts of nutrients by browsing on clover.  These nutrients must be replaced (fertilizer) to maintain a healthy crop.  The more deer and other critters consume, the more fertilizer will be required to maintain a healthy crop.  It is less expensive and easier to maintain a healthy crop than to reestablish a new crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Peas and Oats Versus Soybeans for a Food Plot Crop

Question
Hello Grant,

There is a field that runs the length of a hardwood stand I hunt and my father planted a field of peas and oats in it this year.  Will these crops draw deer like soybeans do?  I already have a stand in place in a funnel that leads to this field.

Thanks,

Bill

Bill,

Food plot crops are kind of like hunting grizzlies with a partner.  To be safe, you don’t have to out run the grizzly, you just have to out run your partner.  Often, it’s not what the best food plot crop is, but what the best in your neighborhood is.  If predator pressure, etc., is equal then deer will feed at the best food source within their home range.  I assume the peas were planted for a summer attractant and to supply nutrition?  If that’s the case, I prefer Roundup Ready forage soybeans as it’s much easier to control weeds.  Eagle Seed forage soybeans have been proven in several university tests to produce the most tons of high quality forage compared to any other variety of forage they’ve been tested against.

Oats are used by deer during the fall/late winter period.  Once the oat plant matures past the forage stage and begins developing a stem, it is rarely consumed by deer.  Then, once a seed head is produced deer will consume the seed.  This interval period is taking up a lot of real estate and resources (moisture, fertilizer, space, etc.) for not that large of yield.

By comparison, soybeans provide quality forage throughout the entire growing season and then can provide 30-70 bushels of extremely high quality grain during the winter.  I’m not aware of any other crop that can provide this much quality food during both the warm and cold season.

With that said, if you and your father are pleased with the results, then don’t change your program.  If you are not, then don’t do the same thing and expect different results.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Spacing for Corn and Beans Using a No-till Drill

Question
Grant,

Love all of your episodes.  In the episode No Till Planting and Turkey Hunts (GDTV 24) I noticed you were planting with a no-till drill.  What spacing do you use for your corn and soybeans?  I have acquired corn and beans from the NWTF and this will be the first year I will plant them.  I plan on renting a drill from the local MFA and do not have much experience using them.

Thanks,

Derek (Lebanon, MO)

Derek,

I used to rent a no-till drill in Taney County until I was blessed enough to purchase a used unit.  My drill has 7.5” row spacing.  I plant soybeans using a 7.5” spacing.  I block off, using cardboard, every other down spout and plant corn on a 15” row spacing.  The only reason I do this for corn is that the meter on my drill (and all brands of no-till drills I’ve used) is such that if I don’t block off every other row, it will crack and kill a portion of the corn seed.  By blocking off every other row, each meter must be opened wider to plant the same amount of corn per acre.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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No-till Drill for Food Plots

Question
Hi Grant,

I absolutely love the show and all that you are teaching the public about deer and conservation.  I am looking to buy a no-till drill to be used in some rocky soil in southwest New York.  I’ll be using it for corn, beans, clover, brassicas, and NWSG in the near future.  I’d probably only need a 6′ model and could do a pull behind or 3 pt. hitch mount.  I’ve looked at Kasco and they seem to have some great models, but would really appreciate your input on what you use and would recommend for these type of soil conditions.

Thanks,

Eric

Eric,

As you know from watching GrowingDeer.tv, The Proving Grounds is extremely rocky.  It is so rocky we don’t own a disk, plow, etc.; we simply spray, fertilize, and plant using a no-till drill.  There are several good brands.  However, I believe the most durable I’ve used is Great Plains.  They make a six foot model that I and my clients have used to plant literally 100’s of acres on various projects.  It is relatively easy to calibrate.

For more of an all-in-one type unit, I prefer the Firminator.  It’s a tough unit that has more options than a standard no-till drill.

A huge consideration for me when purchasing a major piece of equipment is availability of service and parts.  Everyone is using planting equipment more or less at the same time throughout the whitetail’s range.  Breakdowns will happen.  Hence, it’s critical that service and parts are available during this time.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Spraying New Native Grass During Late May

Question
I frost seeded some Cave In Rock in February.  I finally got around to spraying Glyphosate on Sunday the 23rd of May.  Do you think the grass had already started to germinate?  There were some weeds and grasses growing, but it is a pretty clean field since I kept it sprayed last summer. I live in Lewis County, Kentucky right along the Ohio River.

Matt

Matt,

I’d be a bit anxious about spraying Glyphosate during late May on plots where native grass seed has had a chance to germinate.  Young native grasses are difficult to identify.  Glyphosate is ground neutral, so any seeds that hadn’t germinated will be fine.  Given it was a cool spring in Kentucky it may be fine.  I hope you let me know for future reference.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Deer Bedding Areas Based on Local Agriculture Practices

Question
Grant,

I live in south central Kansas in an area with lots of agricultural crops divided by small woodlots and rivers or streams.  Our farm consists of around 300 acres and approximately 150 of those are agriculture fields.  100 acres are open hay fields and the rest is made up of small woodlots and rivers or streams.  This is a very common lay of the land for the immediate area surrounding us. The crops in our area are dominated by soybeans or corn (they are rotated on a yearly basis).

In your experience, how much does crop rotation such as this affect deer bedding area location?  For the sake of this question, let us say you have two 50 acre bedding areas divided by two 500 acre agricultural fields.  One 500 acre field is corn but was soybeans last year and the other is soybeans but was corn last year. Would you expect to see deer bedding in this area to switch to the closer bedding area this year, especially during the summer when the soybeans are the hot food source?  Or will they use the same bedding area as last year for the most part and travel a little farther to get the beans?

Thanks for your time,

Bret

Bret,

I really like south central Kansas!  I’m familiar with the habitat pattern you described and it can produce incredible bucks and hunting opportunities!  In reference to your question, if the deer bedding areas are receiving equal amounts of disturbance, etc., then I would expect the deer to use the area closest to the beans during the growing season – if the deer’s home range overlaps both areas.  If by chance, a deer’s home range only includes one of the two bedding areas, then your question is answered.  Unlike humans, deer rarely explore outside their home range.  They simply don’t know what (if any) food, cover, members of the opposite sex, etc., are available outside their home range.  They don’t learn about opportunities outside their home range through various communication devices like humans do.  I’d use trail cameras to determine the sex/age structure of deer using both cover plots.

Realize this pattern will likely change once the crops ripen and harvest begins.  Remember, M.R.I (Most Recent Information) is critical to patterning and harvesting mature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Crops for Northern Wisconsin

Question
For the last ten years my family and I have been trying to improve the deer habitat on our land. We have roughly 120 acres in northern Wisconsin, primarily cedar swamp.  The land is “L” shaped and the thickest forest is in the crutch of the “L,” this is our sanctuary.  From here in the “L” if you go up you end up in poplar trees and if you go right the land rises from the swamp to hardwoods.  Both areas are still very thick even though we had it select cut a few years ago and are trying to strategically place food plots.  Now we have a 1/2 white clover, 1/2 rye grass plot (1 acre) in the middle of the front forty.  We are looking at several options for other plots including chicory, turnips, soybeans, and a variety of brassicas.  The northern portion outside of our land is primarily agricultural fields which have recently been planted with corn (they used to be rotated with soy beans and corn).  The majority of the work we are doing is on the fringe of the swamp!

I have not been able to find any good advice for planting in this environment.  It seems that this environment is one that is not readily addressed.  We have been involved with QDM for the last ten years but are looking at supplementing more in plots than mineral supplements.  What would you suggest?

Thank you,

Bill

Bill,

As with all food plots, what to plant should be based on the overall management objective.  Are the plots designed to provide nutrition during the growing season or to serve as an attractant during the hunting season?  If the later, do you prefer the crops to peak in attractiveness during the early (archery) season or later during firearms season?

Some general information to consider is at that latitude soybeans are a great summer forage crop for deer and other wildlife.  However, it is important to match the number of deer feeding with the acres of plots and the browse tolerance of the crop.  Soybeans are very nutritious and palatable to deer.  Thus, soybeans can be killed by being over browsed.  If this occurs, there are three practical options.

  1. Increase the size of the plot (add more forage)
  2. Decrease the number of deer that are consuming the soybeans by harvesting does (reproductive units)
  3. Plant a less palatable crop

A mix of winter wheat and brassicas is a good blend for planting during the late summer and establishing an attractant plot.  The wheat/brassicas blend should be planted at least 45 days before the first expected frost.

If the neighboring crop fields are soybeans, the choice is easier as the deer will be eating at your neighbors during the summer, allowing you to utilize your food plot acreage for attractant crops during the hunting season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Minerals to Include for Whitetails

Question
Two questions:

Each spring, I establish a mineral lick (for each 70 acres) with approximately 5# of dicalcium phosphate and 15-20# of NaCl.  My understanding is that the deer are reluctant to eat the mineral without the salt as an attractant.  This year, my local feed dealer changed from dicalcium phosphate to monocalcium phospate.  Is this as good or should I endeavor to local dical?  (I understand that phosphorous is essential for maximum uptake of calcium — which in turn is utilized for antler development in bucks and important for pregnant and lactating does).

The latest edition of “Deer and Deer Hunting” (Summer 2010, p. 11) states “Leaves and woody browse are especially high in protein.  For example, hard maple browse contains about 7% crude protein and 10% crude fiber, which makes for great nutrition and a good source of roughage.”  This is contrary to what I have thought for years.  A 7% level of protein is, from my knowledge, a borderline unacceptable level for even body maintenance — much less to allow for a doe or buck to come even CLOSE to their potential.  This would appear to be particularly true if the doe is in her last trimester of pregnancy (or lactating) or if the buck is developing antlers.  Can you comment?

Barry

Barry,

You are correct that both calcium and phosphorous are two of the minerals deer need in relatively large quantities to express their potential.  Given this, I would prefer the blend that included dicalcium phosphate more than monocalcium phosphate.  However, deer need to consume several different minerals in order to express their potential.  That is why I use Trophy Rock as a mineral supplement.  It includes 60+ trace minerals.  These are mostly in small amounts.  However, most high quality daily multivitamins are very small and provide more than enough mineral content for adult humans.  Making sure mineral supplements are available throughout the year is a very good practice.

I haven’t read the article you referenced.  However, 7% is not considered a “high” level of crude protein for white-tailed deer.  In fact, you are correct that it is not even considered a maintenance level by most deer biologists I know.  Certainly, deer that were maintained on a diet of 7% crude protein would not express their full growth potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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John’s Proving Grounds

Question
Just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your show…it has been a real blessing for me to stumble upon it…I am on your site a lot.  I am 45 and bought my “Proving Grounds” (only 140 acres) here in Southern Indiana last December 2nd.  It has been a dream come true to learn as much as I can and put the practices into the field.  I certainly am stimulating the economy!

Thanks for everything you do,

John

John,

Congratulations on the purchase and thanks for being a fellow land owner/wildlife manager.  I look forward to learning and implementing better wildlife management and hunting techniques with you!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Benefits of Timber Stand Improvement

Question
I had a timber stand improvement done on 131 acres to improve deer and wildlife habitat.  It was done 2 years ago, and I noticed the woods thickening up quite a bit.  Is this the best technique to improve my timber for wildlife, and how long will it take to see the maximum benefit from this practice?

Michael

Michael,

Timber stand improvement (TSI) techniques can be a good wildlife management tool.  The time until wildlife benefits from implementing a TSI project varies by the location and type of timber stand where the technique was used.  For example, thinning pine stands in southern states and following up with a selective herbicide and prescribed fire application can result in a tremendous flush of forbs that provide quality cover and forage within a year or two.  This can be maintained for years by occasionally using prescribed fire to maintain the successional stage of the forbs.

I’m not aware of any selective herbicide that yields the same results in hardwood stands.  I’ve implemented TSI in several hundred acres of hardwoods at The Proving Grounds and have had some forbs recolonize the stands.  However, the forb density is much lower than is usually produced in pine stands where typically more sunlight reaches the forest floor.

Hence, my mission is usually different when doing TSI in hardwoods.  It is usually to encourage the remaining trees to produce more mast, not to provide quality vegetative food and cover.  Managing for an increased yield of acorns requires that each tree left has room to expand its crown.  When hardwoods are cut and the stumps are not treated with an herbicide most will resprout.  These sprouts can provide cover for a few years before they shade out the understory and simply become a pole stand that provides very little cover and food to any form of wildlife.  The nutritional quality of hardwood sprouts is minimal during most of the year.  It can be survival food, but it won’t provide the same quality or quantity of food as most cultivated crops.  I usually use fire and stump applied herbicide to discourage cut hardwoods from resprouting and forming a jungle that has limited wildlife value.

TSI can be used to greatly improve the huntability of a stand.  By thinning a thick stand, the distance that deer can be observed can be increased significantly!  In addition, by varying the density of the stand, etc., deer can be encouraged to feed, bed, etc., in specific areas.

TSI is a great tool.  The specific design of the timber harvest should be designed based on the type of stand and the landowner’s objective.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Magic Bean for Whitetails?

Question
Grant,

I live in central Pennsylvania on a 200 acre farm. We have 80 acres of mountain ground which I do a lot of hunting on. Most of the farmland we have is used for our dairy operation and is in corn or alfalfa, which only leaves me with about a 1 acre pasture that I could use for a food plot. I supplement the deer heavily in the winter with shelled corn, protein pellets and trace minerals. During the spring and summer months I supplement some corn and protein pellets along with Trophy Rock. Our mountain ground is relatively brushy but is starting to thin out some since we logged 8 years ago. There is a three points to a side antler restriction in our area, but it doesn’t seem to help since most bucks are shot before they can grow into a decent 120 class buck. What can I plant in our pasture that requires little care and provides a lot of protein, calcium and other vital rack building nutrients for the deer herd in my area? Also, what are several choices of plants that thrive in this area?

Thanks,

Colton

Colton,

It sounds as if much of your farm may already be providing the local whitetails quality food and trace minerals. I also use Trophy Rock to insure each deer has all the trace minerals they need for antler and fawn development. One difference is if quality forage is available throughout the growing season. My corn and bean crops are left standing throughout the summer and fall. They are not harvested as a commercial crop. I realize that most corn and bean crops are harvested. Is the corn at your dairy farm cut for silage? I ask because silage choppers don’t leave as much grain in the field as traditional combines. Is all the alfalfa cut at once or is there young (6-12” tall) alfalfa available throughout the growing season? If it’s all cut at once and the corn is cut for silage, then the local whitetails may not be receiving a constant source of quality nutrition.

Soybeans are the crop that literally drives deer herd quality throughout the ag belt (Ohio to Kansas). This is because they provide very high quality forage throughout the antler/fawn growth season. Generally speaking, normal production beans are selected to stop growing and become dry enough for harvest before Thanksgiving. Eagle Seeds late maturing forage soybeans are selected to remain growing till very late in the growing season. Hence, they are extremely hardy and provide quality forage and attraction into bow season in most states. However, soybeans are extremely palatable to deer. If the local deer population is high, they might consume the entire 1 ½ acres of soybeans before they become well established. An electric fence could be used to allow the beans to become established before being browsed. This is a great tool for providing food in areas with high deer densities, especially for the hunting season!

If your farm crops are producing enough forage for the herd throughout the summer, then brassicas may be a good option for the 1 ½ acre plot. They should be planted at least 45 days before the first expected frost. If your mission is to attract deer during the hunting season, then planting corn and leaving it standing may be a great option! Standing corn provides a great source of high-energy food and cover for deer in areas with heavy hunting pressure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Switchgrass as Deer Cover

Question
On our 250 acre Iowa farm, we have 100 acres in CRP. I would like to increase the holding power of the farm for deer. I am thinking of adding 5 acres of Cave In Rock switchgrass to a brome field on the far edge of the farm. This area will be used as a sanctuary, free from any human pressure. The entire west half of the farm is seldom hunted to keep the pressure off established bedding areas, consisting of TSI wooded draws. We already have 50 acres of CP-25 prairie, and 6 acres of soybeans, 6 acres clover and 7 acres of alfalfa. Are you a fan of switchgrass for cover?

Michael

Michael,

I’m a huge fan of establishing switchgrass to provide cover for wildlife! It provides great visual and thermal cover. Switchgrass is a very hearty species once established. However, it is not competitive when establishing. It is best to plant switchgrass in fields where a good seedbed has been prepared and there is no competing vegetation.

Be sure to consider the location of where to establish cover in relation to existing or planned travel corridors, food sources, and hunting locations. In addition, consider predominate wind direction and concealment of hunters approaching stand locations.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Late Season Crops for Attracting Whitetails

Question
Hi Grant,

I really enjoy your weekly videos, keep them coming.

I have 20 acres of ag beans planted on my farm almost every year. I have 5 acres of clover/chicory food plots and a 1 acre plot of oats, turnips, and winter wheat. I also have a 1 1/2 acre plot that I would like to plant for late season hunting (December & January). What would you recommend to plant there, corn, more soybeans, brassicas, or something else? Also, if corn, what would you rotate it with?

Thanks,

John

John,

Deer readily consume grain during the late season. Soybean or corn grain is a great attractant and provides quality nutrition. Are the 20 acres of conventional beans you mentioned left standing or are they harvested? If they are left standing, are they totally consumed before spring? If so, adding another 1 ½ acres is probably not a good plan. If they are harvested, consider a rotation of corn and soybeans in the new plot. Since your mission for this plot is to provide food during the late season, it may be necessary to use an electric fence that is designed to exclude deer. This would help insure there is a source of grain during the late season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Alternate Source of Forage Soybeans

Question
Grant,

I’m experiencing some frustration getting Antler Dirt and Eagle Seeds. First Eagle Seeds is sold out (as of last week) then Antler Dirt hasn’t returned my email or phone message from two weeks back.

So my question is what would be your next choice in soybeans? And what do you recommend in place of Antler Dirt?

Walter

Walter,

I’m sorry to hear you are frustrated. I shared your note with both companies. I was informed that Antler Dirt has made contact with you. Eagle Seed literally breeds and produces very unique cultivars of forage soybeans. The livestock market uses these cultivars as well as wildlife managers. I’m not aware of another company that offers similar cultivars. I order mine and what I need for my clients very early each year. I do know that sometimes Eagle Seed and/or their dealers will have orders that are not picked up from time to time. I’d encourage you to call and see if by chance that occurred this year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Does Glyphosate Have Pre-emergent Properties?

Question
Grant,

My wildlife biologist insists that Glyphosate (“Roundup”) can be applied immediately prior to planting any seeds because, he contends, that Glyphosate has no pre-emergent properties — that it kills green plants by absorption via the growing leaves.

On the other hand, two different county extension experts tell me that “the label” for Glyphosate states that it does indeed have pre-emergent properties for 7 days and thus any plants that germinate within those 7 days will be negatively affected by this herbicide. I assume that Roundup Ready seeds would be immune.

What is your opinion/fact on this? Can I spray Glyphosate one day and safely plant seeds the next day? A major reason for my question is that my wildlife biologist has a sprayer and drill he will let me use, but wants them returned ASAP. Also, in spring, there will likely be limited opportunities for prime planting — not too dry, not too wet, rain in the forecast, etc. It would sure be easier if I could spray then plant during one good (weather) opening.

Barry

Barry,

Glyphosate’s mode of action is absorption through living plant tissue. It has no pre-emergent properties for any plant I’ve ever researched. In fact, I just checked the Glyphosate label for wheat, corn, and soybeans (cereal and grain crops). It says

Preplant, Preemergence, At-Planting

USE INSTRUCTIONS: This product may be applied before, during or after planting of cereal crops. Applications must be made prior to emergence of the crop.”

I have sprayed and planted in one day, and never experienced a problem with the crops I’ve planted.

Like you, I have limited days to plant when the conditions are favorable. I’d suggest also checking out the herbicide Gramoxone. It kills extremely rapidly (in a day for most annual weeds). However, it only top kills. Some perennial plants will resprout. This may be a good option if you have to spray one day and plant the next. Gramoxone requires a pesticide applicators license.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plots in Areas with Production Corn and Beans

Question
Hi Grant,

I live and hunt in Wisconsin. I am in a rural area surrounded by corn, beans, and alfalfa. I would like to do a small food plot. With an abundance of food sources available, what should I look to plant that will bring deer in?

Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

On properties that neighbor production corn and beans it’s usually not necessary to establish warm season plots. The production beans will provide great quality forage. Deer frequently use corn for cover. However, typically production crops are harvested before or during the early part of deer season. Once the crops are harvested, the local herds will often change use/travel patterns. They will still search for spilled grain where the crops were harvested. Unharvested grain or good quality forage is now in demand by the local deer herd. I have multiple clients that hunt properties in production agricultural areas. One of the designs we often use in this type of habitat is to establish attraction plots in areas of cover. These food sources become hot spots once the local production crops are harvested. Deer will continue to search the production agricultural fields for grain, but mainly at night. The sources of food tucked away in areas of cover usually are used by deer much more frequently during daylight hours, unless they receive as much hunting pressure as the production agricultural fields.

The crops to plant in these attraction plots depend on when they are to be hunted. Well fertilized wheat is a fine crop for early season hunting. However, in relatively small plots, it can become over-browsed before the rut or late season. Forage brassicas can provide tons of forage and deer usually wait until a frost or two to consume them. However, when the local herd decides it prefers brassicas, they can consume all the forage in a small plot rapidly. The tonnage of grain produced by Eagle Seed forage soybeans often outweighs the tonnage produced by many forage crops. Deer are very attracted to most grains, especially soybean grain during the fall. However, forage soybeans may be consumed in small plots before they produce grain. A simple solution is to use an electric fence to protect the crop until you desire to hunt. This system is a great tool for establishing maximum forage/grain for the hunting season.

If a fence is not used, there is always a trade-off between palatability/tons of forage produced/deer herd density. Fences help insure plenty of quality food available in small plots when the hunter wants to hunt.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Information Needed to Maximize Consultant’s Visit

Question
Dr. Woods,

In your experience as a consultant for so many years, what type of information does a landowner or land manager, in my case, need to have available to get the most out of a visit from a professional consultant? We have been managing this farm in Alabama for several years but it’s time to step it up a notch. I read my QDMA magazine, “Farming for Wildlife,” and of course watch GrowingDeer.tv. I have implemented several of the common techniques that have been described in the articles and episodes. Thus, we have a grasp of the habitat management basics. What is your advice when meeting with a wildlife consultant? How should I be prepared for the consultation to be most productive? In order to go to the next level and reach our potential we need a few visits with a professional.

Ben

Ben,

I can only speak for my firm. The two most important items we need to prepare a wildlife and habitat management prescription are:

  1. The client’s realistic objectives
  2. The resources available to be used in the prescription

It is critical to the success of the plan that the consultant understands the client’s realistic objectives. This is because there is a large continuum of management possibilities. Sometimes the client’s objectives are very general. This seems easy, but actually causes problems as without specific objectives, the management plan can’t be customized for maximum efficiency. In addition, general plans allow the client to interpret them one way and the consultant another.

“Realistic” also means that simply hiring a consulting wildlife biologist won’t guarantee a Boone and Crocket behind every tree next fall! The consultant should discuss the client’s objectives before accepting the job. Unrealistic expectations will result in a dissatisfied client and a bad reputation for the consultant.

It’s just as important for the consultant to understand what resources are available as it serves no purpose to prescribe management activities that are not practical to implement. For example, prescribing the establishment and maintenance of 20 acres of food plots when there is not a tractor available doesn’t help the landowner or wildlife population. Likewise, prescribing fire as a management tool for a leased property may be useless if the client doesn’t have permission to burn.

Wildlife management is as much of an art as it is a science. The artist can only be as creative as the tools available for use allows. To get the most out of hiring a consulting wildlife biologist, make sure they know the realistic objectives and what tools are available to implement the plan.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do Deer Consume Cannabis?

Question
I’m not sure if the Tulsa news makes it up to you in Missouri but we recently had a large cannabis field found on public hunting land in northeast Oklahoma. It made me wonder, do deer consume cannabis/hemp?

J Damon

J Damon,

Cannabis in May? I’ve heard that cannabis is consumed by deer, especially when it is young. Hopefully, they consume it all and save our law enforcement friends some work!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot pH and Antler Dirt

Question

I just watched the video on Antler Dirt (GDTV 22). On my property I have heavy clay soil which would benefit from Antler Dirt, but I am concerned about ph issues. My ph is 7.2 naturally and Antler Dirt would possibly add to that. I have a local option but it’s not the quality of Antler Dirt. I have also found a good source of pelletized chicken litter that is only 6 miles away. Would this be a reasonable substitute? If so, how much can I use per acre?

Albert

Albert,

Yes, composted and humified litter could significantly improve the production of heavy clay soils. I believe Antler Dirt’s pH is very close to neutral. I’ve been applying Antler Dirt to some of my plots at The Proving Grounds for five years and the pH started in the low 5’s and has increased to 6.8 to 7.2 and has stabilized in that range. In addition, one of the great benefits of Antler Dirt is that it can be custom blended for specific sites.

Usually raw chicken litter has a pH of 8.0 to 8.2, depending on the bedding material, etc. I would certainly ask for an analysis of the raw litter, or collect a sample and have it analyzed. This would allow you to determine the benefits and other considerations of that product. Certainly having a source within six miles could be a huge benefit!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mixing Corn with Soybeans

Question
Dr. Grant,

We are about to plant our Eagle Seed soybeans and want to mix in some RR corn with them. When we sent off the soil samples, they ask what crop you are going to plant. We said soybeans but didn’t mention the corn. The soybeans don’t require nitrogen but the corn will. Do we need to add nitrogen to the mix for the corn when we fertilize? Is this something we should add later when the corn starts to come up?

Thank You!

Kevin

Kevin,

I used to mix corn with soybeans, but don’t anymore because I’ve learned the yield is much higher when planting the two crops separately and managing each plot for the specific crop. Your question is a good example. For the corn to do well, you’d need to broadcast nitrogen throughout the entire plot, but the reduced corn density will not take advantage of the nitrogen throughout the plot. It’s true that Eagle Seed forage beans produce a lot of nitrogen, but it is distributed throughout the plot.

When considering the timing of planting, spraying, and crop specific fertilizer needs the yield of each crop would be much better to plant 1/3 of the plot in corn and 2/3 of the plot in beans. If that is simply not practical for your situation, then I’d reduce the corn seeding rate to 5,000 kernels per acre and mix with the beans.

For those that might not be familiar, seed corn is sold in bags of 80,000 kernels. So it is easy to determine the weight of 5,000 kernels by dividing the total weight of a bag of corn by 16 to determine the weight of 5,000 kernels.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Deal with Buckthorn

Question
Have you ever dealt with Buckthorn? Our property in Minnesota has a growing Buckthorn problem and we are looking for solutions to help eliminate it. Thank you for your time and advice.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Unfortunately, there are gads of plants that share the common name of Buckthorn. I think I know what you are talking about, but never wish to prescribe a control program without knowing for sure.

Check out the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources website and determine if we are talking about the same species. If so, there is a thorough explanation of control techniques on that site. If we are describing the same species, early control is much easier and less expensive than waiting until it spreads.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Best Time to Hunt Whitetails Based on Moon Phases

Question
I listened to you today on Jock 98.7’s Wild Idea Archery Show. If you get tired of your day job, you should be a comedian. I really got a lot out of what you said.

Unfortunately, I don’t have my own place and usually end up hunting conservation land in northern Missouri. On our new year’s weekend bow hunt this past winter we saw over 100 deer per day…..on conservation ground. I couldn’t believe it! But 10 inches of snow, 18 below zero temps and standing corn may have had a little bit to do with that.

Anyway, my question is about moon phases. I don’t get a whole lot of time to bow hunt so I try and make my times count. What is the best piece of advice you could give me on deer movement? I have heard so many different things over the years. For instance, “if the moon is overhead during the day you better be hunting.” Also, do you know where I can find a moon phase map that is cheap?

By the way, I feel for you hunting those hills down in Branson. I know the owner of SaddleBrooke and he used to let me hunt on the west side of Highway 65 and it was all walking, no four wheelers. We saw a few deer and a lot of turkeys, but it was a 45 minute drive from my home in Republic, so we found a place closer.

I appreciate any help you can give me. Take care, good hunting and God bless.

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for checking out GrowingDeer.tv!

There are gads of calendars, articles, etc., that predict when deer will be most active based on the phase of the moon. Some are online, some are for sale, and some are published in hunting magazines. However, there have been numerous scientific studies using actual conception dates of deer, movement patterns collected by GPS collars, etc. None of these studies have found any correlation of deer activity and specific moon phases. Maybe these studies aren’t looking for the correct correlation. There is always room for further research.

I hunt when I can and absolutely don’t worry about what’s the current phase of the moon. With that said, if you have a system that works for you, don’t change!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Job is Best for Me?

Question
Grant,

I am a high school senior in central Missouri and I do not know what I want to become. I love to hunt, hunt, hunt and I don’t want to get away from it as I go onto college! I’m big into filming and want to get better and better! What job career would get me outdoors and let me have time to enjoy every season?

Clint

Clint,

As far as I know, there are very few jobs where folks actually make a living hunting. The folks I know that hunt the most are folks that have worked hard at some career and have built up enough seniority/vacation time to have enough days to hunt. I have friends that are UPS drivers, train engineers, etc., and they hunt many more days a year than I do.

For example, most wildlife biologists I know are working during most of the hunting seasons. Many go into the profession because they enjoy hunting, but they often find they don’t make enough wages to afford hunts in faraway places, and don’t have enough time to hunt close to home.

You should accept that work consumes much of an adult’s life. I think the most important characteristic of a good job is doing something that you enjoy and which allows you to use your God-given talents. Honestly consider what you really like to do. As a criteria, what you would like to do when you are old or in harsh conditions? Eliminate what you don’t consider fun when days are not going well. If you don’t find it fun sometimes now, you will really dislike it when you do it daily for 20+ years. Next consider what skills you have naturally. Pair the always fun with natural skills and you will have a happy and successful career.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Forage Crops for Whitetail Hunting in Nova Scotia

Question
Hey Grant,

I just discovered your website and have been glued to it for the last 3 days!

I am 26 and have 60 acres in Nova Scotia, Canada that I have been slowly grooming for whitetails over the past 3 years. I am purchasing a compact tractor this week and plan to expand my foot plots and maybe some cover. I currently have 2.5 acres of clover and would like to plant one more attractant plot as well as some winter feed. If I am going to have less than ten acres planted in total, what would you suggest for the rest of my plots to go with my clover? I am very interested in both the soybeans and corn idea, but how big would I have to go to make it work?

Thanks,

Dan

Dan,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! There are several variables that should be considered in developing your plan. What to plant for attractant plots depends on the time of year you wish to hunt. Do you plan to hunt the early portion of the archery season? Then late maturing forage soybeans may be perfect! Do you wish to hunt the last portion of the season? If so, then cold hearty brassicas would be a good choice. Another consideration is what other forage resources are available in your neighborhood. If your property is adjacent to one of Nova Scotia’s famous blueberry farms or apple orchards, then the local herd would be well feed during a specific time of the year and your crops need to be productive during other times.

If the local habitat is lacking in food, and the local deer density is high, then it might be necessary to protect a portion of your crop with a Gallagher electric fence to allow some crops to mature before allowing/wanting deer to have access them. This is an excellent and cost effective technique to provide tons of high quality forage for literally pennies a pound.

It sounds as if you have all the tools to be successful. The next step is defining your mission so you can best use the available information and resources to achieve your objectives.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Predicting Acorn Yield

Question
Grant

Is there a way to tell what the acorn mass will be this fall by looking at the trees in the spring? We haven’t had a bumper crop in 8 years. Two hundred and fifty miles west, on another farm, it seems to hit every 3 years. Can a frost or heavy rain, maybe even a strong wind, affect the acorns?

I look forward to seeing your new video each week.

Thanks,

Chad

Chad,

I’m not aware of any reliable method during the spring to predict acorn production for the following fall. Oaks produce flowers, although their flowers aren’t showy like many plants. These flowers can be damaged by frost, heavy rain, hail, etc. Once the flowers are pollinated, another gad of events can prevent the young acorns from developing. This is why acorn production is so variable! In fact, in areas where acorns are the primary food source during the fall/winter, it’s best to keep the herd density at a low level so there is plenty of food during years of minimal acorn production. Years of good acorn yield should be considered a bonus food source because it is so unreliable. Otherwise there will be many years when the herd is malnourished.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Make Money Playing

Question
I would like to make my land pay for itself by making it a “wildlife research facility” if possible. Can you tell me how to go about that? Is that even possible? Incorporate? It’s in Virginia and I’m putting in food plots, cutting trees, working the pond, etc. Hope you can suggest something.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe,

I don’t have any advice, but if you learn how to PLEASE let me know!!!

Growing Deer (and spending $) together,

Grant

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Nutritional Value of Acorns During Spring

Question
Grant,
Thanks for the great website.

My property is located in central Wisconsin. We receive approximately 1 – 2 feet of snow through a typical winter. The snow is typically covering the ground from December through March. Low temps fall below zero occasionally throughout a normal winter. What is the nutritional value of the acorns that I see on the ground in March/April compared to the same acorns that fell off of the oaks in August/September of the previous year? Does the snow and cold protect the nutritional value of the acorns or do the nutrients within the acorns deplete with time?

Thanks in advance and keep up the great service that you are providing with GrowingDeer.tv.

Craig

Craig,

I don’t know the answer to your question. I did a quick search and didn’t find any relevant information. White oak acorns often germinate during the fall, unless it gets cold very soon. If the acorns you found were cracked, etc., I doubt they have much nutritional value. Red Oak acorns usually remain whole much longer. It’s possible Red Oak acorns could maintain their nutritional value if they remain whole and dry. If they were positioned in water or the temperatures were warm enough that the moisture wasn’t frozen, it’s likely some mold or fungus would grow on them by spring.

Addressing your question from another point of view, I very rarely notice acorns in the stomach content of deer harvested for research this time of year. It would seem deer are not readily consuming acorns during the early spring.

If you learn differently, please let me know.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Difference between Antler Dirt and MicroLeverage

Question
Grant,

What’s the difference between MicroLeverage and Antler Dirt and what are the different situations in which you use these fertilizers?

I enjoy GrowingDeer.tv very much. Thanks for helping me to be a better deer manager. Your help at Heart’s Desire Hunting Club in Tennessee is still benefiting us every day!

Sincere best regards,

Ned

Ned,

As I understand, Antler Dirt has specific minerals added that may help with antler/fawn production – pending on the existing availability of these minerals in the native soil. Hence, Antler Dirt is blended specifically for maximizing the potential of forage for white-tailed deer. MicroLeverage is blended to maximize forage production, but doesn’t include the same mineral combination. Both products are produced by a small company, so I’d contact them for a definitive answer. Thanks for your kind words and for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in Small Plot for Attracting Deer

Question
I have a small plot of about 3000 square feet, next to a small pond in the middle of the woods. It’s intended to be a stopping point along the way from the main ag field to bedding cover. What would you recommend for such a small plot?

Mike

Mike,

I assume you wish to stop deer during the hunting season? If so, I’d recommend a clover/wheat blend if you plan to primarily hunt the early to mid season. If you plan to hunt the mid to late season, I’d recommend a mix of clover and brassicas.

Just as important as what to plant is the timing and establishment techniques. Plant very early if you are an early season bow hunter so it will be established by opening day. Plant a minimum of 45 days before the first expected frost if you are a late season hunter so the crops will have plenty of time to produce enough forage that they aren’t consumed to rapidly. If rapid consumption is a major concern, then consider fencing all or a portion of the plot to preserve some of the forage for when you wish to hunt. Gallagher Fencing has some good options. Finally, you certainly want maximum yield. To accomplish this test the soil to ensure you add the appropriate nutrients to maximize the yield. Be sure to tell the lab what you plan to plant as the recommendations vary significantly from crop to crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in New Food Plots in Northern Missouri

Question
Hello,

Thanks for putting together such an informative site.

I live in northern Missouri and just bulldozed a 1.5 and 2.5 acre plot out of an oak forest. I have done soil samples that show a pH of around 6 to 6.5. I am going to lime this spring. I want to know if I should spring plant after adding the lime or if I should plant this fall after the lime has had time to work on a new food plot. I was planning on using clover, but after watching your show I would also like to know if the forage soybeans (or another option) would be a better option on a new plot with less desirable soil as I try to improve the soil. The surrounding property is a cattle ranch without any crops.

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for giving me great background information! It’s always easier to prescribe a plan when more details are provided! I would plant something now in the new plot. If you don’t it will likely produce a good crop of weeds, and weed seeds. Eagle Seed forage soybeans are a great option! Like all crops, they do require phosphorous (P) and potassium (K). Based on your soil tests results, insure that at least 100 pounds of P and 150 pounds of K per acre are available for maximum yield. They will produce if less P and K are provided, but given the acreage it’s more cost effective to maximize those acres then clear more plots. In addition, I like to insure I’m building the soil in addition to producing a crop. If you believe the deer density is too high for forage soybeans to become established in these plots (given they may be the best forage in the neighborhood), then consider a less palatable crop such as buckwheat, an annual clover, etc.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in Fire Breaks?

Question
I have fire breaks and a couple of old roads on my property. I would like your suggestions on a planting solution for those openings, be it a clover combination, one particular clover or something else.

Joseph

Joseph,

Planting fire breaks/old roads is good management and can be used to create outstanding hunting locations! If your fire breaks are bordered by thinned pines, then almost any forage crop can be used. If the fire breaks are around hardwoods or closed canopy pines, then several clover varieties might be the best choice as they are relatively shade tolerant.

There are several brands of clover or clover mixes on the market. I’m sure many would work. However, I was impressed with the Durana Clover that was planted in the thinned rows of a pine stand that was shown on the April 5th episode of GrowingDeer.tv (GDTV 19).

Many of the forage brassicas also do well in areas that receive partial sunlight. The more sunlight that reaches the ground, the more options you have when planting forage crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Can I Plant in Paths through Pine Stands?

Question
Dear Grant,

First off, I want to thank you for answering all my questions in the past. It’s nice to know someone well known actually cares about the regular person and doesn’t mind helping.

My quick question is what can you plant in paths through pine stands besides clover at this stage of the year? It seems a little late to plant clover and I hate to wait until September to plant something.

Thanks again,

Kevin

Dry food plot in a utility cage

Kevin,

Thanks for the kind words! I have found that most forage crops do well when planted in thinned pine stands. During droughts, crops usually do better in the thinned pine stands compared to areas that are fully exposed to the sun. This is because soil moisture evaporation occurs at a slower rate within the partial canopy as compared to areas with no protection from the sun throughout the day.

In fact, I’ve seen forage crops thrive within a thinned pine stand, while a total failure occurred just yards away in plots that were totally exposed to the sun. The crop in this image was limed, fertilized and planted on the same day. This is due to a huge difference in soil moisture.

I’ve produced great crops of Eagle Seed forage soybeans, and have had clients produce corn, buckwheat, etc., planted in thinned pines. I believe the biggest determinant of success is not what is planted, but that adequate lime and fertilizer are added. It seems some folks opt to skip that critical step when establishing forage crops in thinned pine stands.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant in a New Food Plot in Tennessee

Question
Yesterday a friend asked me what and how to plant a 1.5 acre spot that has been a regrowth area for the last several years. The place is in middle Tennessee about twenty minutes from his home. He has minimal equipment.

Thanks,

Wilson

Wilson,

Without knowing a few other factors like the local deer density, soil type, etc., it’s tough to give an accurate recommendation. I’ll share a few general guidelines…

Forage varieties with small-sized seed are usually best for plots where minimal equipment is available for establishment. These varieties usually don’t require being covered as deep with soil as larger-sized seed for successful establishment. With that said, it’s probably too late in the spring to plant clover. However, a bit earlier in the spring clover would have been a good option if the weeds can be controlled and adequate lime/fertilizer can be spread at the site.

Buckwheat is an often overlooked forage that deer prefer. It is relatively easy to establish, deer usually readily consume it, and it will grow at marginal sites. Like all forages, it will do better on better sites!

Most forage brassicas will grow almost anywhere, but will perform best during the fall in Tennessee.

The yields of forage crops, like most things in life, reflect the effort put into them. There are no magic cultivars that I’m aware of which will produce tons of forage without inputting some effort and resources to establish and maintain them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Setting a Bow’s Draw Length

Question
My bow has draw length from 17-30 and its draw weight is from 16-52. Can you estimate on which draw length I should put it if I want 35 draw weight?

Mohammad

Mohammad,

I’m assuming your bow is a compound. If that’s a correct assumption, then the drawn length should be set to ensure it fits your stance and comfort level. Setting the draw length should be independent of the bow’s draw weight.

Next, the bow’s draw weight should be set at a level that you can shoot comfortably, without straining during longer practice sessions. If you plan to hunt with this bow, it’s critical the weight is set so you can smoothly draw the bow after you’ve remained cold and still for extended periods of time.

Going to a local bow shop or getting with a friend that has the proper tools for setting up a bow (bow press, level, scale, range, etc.) is a great way to get a bow set up correctly.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cover for Whitetails on Small Acreage

Question

Do you have any videos on building and enhancing a sanctuary on small acres? I just found your site and like what I see.

Thank you,

Lyle


Lyle,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! I explained the qualities of various types of cover (hardwood samplings, mature cedars, native grass, etc.) in the March 8th episode (GDTV 15). These descriptions included information on how these cover types were established and what I do to maintain them. The April 12th episode is about using fire to maintain cover by controlling the stage of succession (GDTV 20). In addition, cover has been discussed briefly in other episodes. I hope you find this information useful.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Date of Food Plot Episode

Question
What was the date of your video on forage food plots? I could not find it on your page.

We intend to plant this month in Georgia.

Don

Don,

There have been several episodes about food plots. The episode on April 5th was about establishing and maintaining plots in the thinned rows of pine stands (GDTV 19). The March 29th episode was a review of cool season food plots at The Proving Grounds (GDTV 18). There are several episodes listed just below the video player on the main page. Hope this helps!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Keeping Crows from Pulling Up Corn Seedlings

Question
Great site you have started. I really like it.

How can I keep crows from pulling up my corn I just planted? We have 6 corn fields and the biggest is close to 3 acres. Soon as it starts coming up the crows pull it up. Anything I can treat the seed with or spray on the plants to keep them from doing this?

I turkey hunt these same fields so shooting them may scare my turkey’s off.

Thanks,

Chad

Chad,

Dang crows! I don’t know of any method to deter crows that won’t deter turkeys. All the guys I know that work animal damage control simply grab a shotgun and case of shells when dealing with crow complaints. Crows rapidly become conditioned to not fear non-lethal means such as propane cannons, etc. The good news is that corn should rapidly grow past the stage where crows damage the seedlings.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Soybeans as a Cool Season Forage

Question
Grant,

I planted the forage soybeans by Eagle Seed you talk about in your videos last summer where I hunt in south Alabama. The bean plants did extremely well – the best ever for me. Of course all the above average rainfall had to have helped as well. The deer seem to browse all summer and go to it well. I ended up disking under the plants with the beans still on the plants when it came time to plant my winter plots. This year I’m planning to leave the bean field as long as possible because I think I could hunt the bean field in bow season and into early gun season. I may even leave the beans in one area and not plant a winter plot at all to see what happens. What are your thoughts and recommendations on this strategy for both nutrition and hunting?

Keith

Keith,

I’ve faced that same dilemma with Eagle Seed beans. Because they are bred to mature very late in the growing season, they are typically still producing browse (and beans) when it is time to plant fall/winter plots. I find it painful to mow great looking soybeans down that are providing quality forage and a ton or more of grain (the developing beans) only to go to the expense of planting a crop that may or may not eventually produce that much forage.

So, last year I did a test. I mowed down some Eagle Seed beans and planted a typical blend of wheat, clover, and brassicas. During the next several months I compared the productivity and deer’s preference of the Eagle beans I left standing to the wheat blend I planted. These plots were side by side. The standing beans provided WAY more green forage during the growing season and more pounds of quality food in the form of bean grain then the wheat/clover/brassica blend produced. I should note that it was a long cold winter at The Proving Grounds and the wheat blend wasn’t very productive until recently. There were about two weeks early this spring when the temperatures warmed enough to allow the wheat blend to grow rapidly and the deer certainly utilized that crop during that period.

The results were that the Eagle Seed beans produced many more tons of forage last fall, yielded more pounds of quality food in bean production, and were more desirable to the deer herd than the wheat blend.

Based on these observations, my program this year will include leaving standing any Eagle Seed beans that produced well through the summer. If there are any areas where the Eagle Seed beans were browsed so much that there is not much forage or bean pods left by August, I’ll simply drill a wheat/clover blend into that crop. In other words, I’ll judge each plot by the quantity and quality of forage available when it’s time to establish plots this fall. I don’t want to make the mistake of mowing super high quality forage and remove developing bean pods that will produce more pounds of food that deer prefer than the crop I’ll have to spend resources on to establish.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Many Pines to Leave in a Food Plot

Question
Dr. Grant,

I talked with an uncle of mine recently who has been planting food plots for quite awhile. He suggested cutting down all the pine trees in my plot area. I have a variety of pines out there but they all have weeds and grass growing under them. I plan on taking out a few of them to open shooting distances but wasn’t planning on cutting them all down because I want to maintain as natural a setting out there as possible.

What do you think?

Gerald

Gerald,

As long as there is enough sunlight reaching the ground to produce the desired crops’, and enough acreage available to produce more food than the local herd can consume, the amount of trees left is more of a choice about aesthetics. Deer certainly prefer feeding in areas close to cover versus wide open fields, especially during daylight hours. There needs to be enough room between the trees so they won’t be damaged by equipment used to establish and maintain the crops. Another consideration would be the types of herbicides you plan to use on that plot. Many ag crop herbicides are not harmful to pines, but some are. It would be a waste to design and establish a beautiful plot, only to kill the cover trees when simply spraying herbicide. A lesson I’ve learned the hard way more than once is that it’s always easier to remove trees that you question may or may not be in the way when establishing a plot, then removing a tree that has fallen in an established plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Low Hole in the Bucket

Question
Dear Grant,

I was wondering if you could expand on the idea you posed for micronutrients being almost as important as the more focused on nutrients (N,P,K, etc.) available in the soil for food plots? Also, would magnesium and calcium be considered micronutrients?

If your budget only allowed improving the soil in one aspect, would pH be the best component to correct? Seems like it would be the cheapest at least….some of our soil is as low as 5.5 pH!

Thanks in advance and great job with the burn downs (GDTV 20)!!

Andy

Andy,

While in college, I remember learning about Liebig’s Law of the Minimum. It’s simply a principle developed in the early 1800’s that states “growth is controlled not by the total of resources available, but by the scarcest resource (limiting factor).”

As an illustration, a plant could be attempting to grow in an area that had ample nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). However, if there is no iron available, the plant will not be very productive. Iron is required to form chlorophyll (for photosynthesis). Therefore, even though the plant has access to all the N, P, and K (macronutrients or nutrients that are required by plants in a high volume), its growth will be severely limited because trace amounts of iron are not available.

Many food plot farmers only test the soil in their plots to determine how much N, P, and K are available. For a few more dollars good labs, like Waters Ag, will test for the macronutrients (N, P, and K) and the most critical micronutrients also. Even fewer food plot farmers use a fertilizer that includes the most critical micronutrients. That is one reason (among many) that I use Antler Dirt.

Remember that plants are only nutrient transfer agents. If the nutrients aren’t available to the plant, they can’t be transferred to the deer. The productivity of deer (antlers and fawns, among other measures) can be limited due to the lack of trace elements. I refer to Liebig’s Law of the Minimum as the “low hole in the bucket.” As a manager, I can plug several holes, but if I don’t plug the lowest hole, the deer herd can’t express its full potential. The best deer managers constantly strive to plug the lowest hole.

Yes, I always direct my limited food plot budget to correcting the pH before spending resources on other limited nutrients. pH is often a low hole in the food plot bucket!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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High Altitude Food Plots

Question
I want to plant some food plots in Colorado at 7,500 feet in the pine tree area. The pH is 7, the annual moisture is 15″ and the soils are about 50% decomposed granite. I am looking for something for a food plot and also for a fall planting honing plot.

I will be writing an article on this for numerous magazines since we support about 25 magazines.

Thank you,

Greg

Greg,

High altitude locations are usually associated with tough conditions to produce forage crops. Forage brassicas are one of the best choices for those conditions. They are relatively drought hardy, cold hardy, and can produce a lot of tonnage in a short timeframe. The forage brassica plots I’ve tried in similar conditions grew okay, but were rapidly consumed by elk.

I’ll be happy to come do some research for you (with my bow)!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Holding Antlers during Late Winter a Good Sign!

Question
On March 26, 2010 I got a beautiful picture of a four point buck. I was very surprised! I live in Attica, New York (between Buffalo and Rochester).

I was told that he didn’t cast his antlers because his system doesn’t have enough mineral content. Can this be true? I have never come across this before and I am a 63 year old avid hunter.

Thank you for any information. Love your articles.

Thomas

Thomas,

In areas of good habitat, it’s common for healthy bucks to hold their antlers until late March. In fact, we had several trail camera images of bucks with antlers during late March at The Proving Grounds this year. I consider seeing bucks holding their antlers during late winter a sign of good habitat and the health of that buck. Thanks for the kind words!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Source of Drip Torches

Question

Hello Grant,

Mark here again. I watched your latest video about burning (GDTV 20). Where do you get those “flame throwers”…and are they filled with kerosene?

Mark


Mark,

We purchase most of our fire equipment, including the drip torches from Cascade Fire Equipment. However, there are several sources.

We use 2/3’s diesel and 1/3 gas. Caution – NEVER use pure gas!!!! There are lots of good publications on the web about the proper use of drip torches. Be careful!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Quality Forage Needed to Express Buck’s Potential

Question
First off, thanks for your site and help.

We’ve been managing our property of 250 acres for over ten years. Our neighbors on two sides (3000 acres) have been managing for about 6 years. One of the other sides just came under management (1500 acres), and of course, the last side (2000 acres) is not so good (ha-ha). We’ve seen better deer in the 3-6 year old range. The problem is we still don’t see the deer that we know have been around. Are some bucks just “freaks of nature” or is something still missing?

Kevin

Kevin,

Mature bucks are a result of good trigger finger management (passing young bucks and allowing them to mature before being harvested). However, to express their maximum antler growth potential mature bucks need access to all the quality forage they wish to consume. Insufficient quality forage is probably the most common limiting factor of mature bucks not expressing their antler growth potential. I don’t know if this is true on your property, but it is worth investigating.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Make Maps

Question

I would like to know what program you used to make your maps that were shown in your March 29th video Food Plot Review (GDTV 18). I really liked the layout and the ability to label different areas of your map.

Thank you!

Tim


Tim,

We used to use some very expensive software and GPS equipment to create custom maps. However, we now use Google Earth, PowerPoint, and other readily available programs to create maps.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Map of The Proving Grounds

Question

I love the map I saw on the March 29th video Food Plot Review (GDTV 18), but I couldn’t find it on the site. Can you post it?

Doug

Doug,

We use maps constantly and change them as our management practices change. Hence, we’ll be using updated maps in future episodes. If we posted a map, it would be out of date soon.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Touring The Proving Grounds

Question

Hey Grant,

I was wondering if I could come learn about your food plots. I heard of your website from Bill on Midwest Whitetail.

Austin (Memphis, MO)


Austin,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! We do give tours of The Proving Grounds and provide counsel about food plots and other habitat management subjects. We charge $500 per day for a custom tour.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Is my goal of growing and hunting a 200″ buck realistic for my property?

Question
I have a 1000 acre piece here in southwest Wisconsin. I have been improving the property since I bought it 5 years ago. I plant 40 acres of crops yearly for wildlife, including beans and corn as well as winter wheat and alfalfa. Twenty-five to fifty does are shot yearly and that still isn’t enough. I see (and shoot) 1-2 bucks per year in the 160-165 range, obviously older deer. My goal is to see/grow a buck in the 190-200 inch range, but I’m becoming skeptical that it can happen. These deer seem to top out in the 150-165 range at 4-6 years. Am I being naive about what this area can produce? There have been several deer over 200 inches shot in the surrounding 25 mile radius over the last several years. My neighbor killed a 186 typical 10 with 4 inches or better broken off a tine 2 years ago. What is realistic?

Gary

Gary,

It sounds as if you have a great management program to meet your mission of producing mature bucks. To estimate the potential maximum BC score that can be expected from a property, I frequently attempt to find the score of the top ten bucks harvested in the neighborhood or similar habitat. I then consider the management potential of the property in question (amount of quality food, cover, and water), and the current practices on the neighboring properties. I also consider the size of the properties where the largest bucks in the neighborhood were harvested (why did those bucks survive to maturity?). It sounds as if you’ve completed a similar analysis.

Based on the information you have provided me, it seems realistic for a 200” class buck to be produced and harvested on/near your property. With that said, remember that producing and harvesting a free-ranging 200” class buck is a VERY rare event. If that is truly your goal, it is critical to make sure each deer has all the quality food, cover, and water they want. A good indicator that these conditions exist is if there is plenty of quality forage available during late summer and late winter. In addition, it’s best to pass all bucks until they are four years old or older so their antler growth potential can be estimated. Then, the best four year olds should be passed a few more years as many bucks don’t express their full antler growth potential until they are six years old or older. Yes, passing a 170” class buck is tough, but often necessary to produce 200” class bucks. Attempting to produce a 200” deer requires intense management and discipline. Each person must evaluate the costs and benefits, like we should in all activities in life.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Sugar Beets

Question
Grant,

I was curious as to all of the steps necessary in planting sugar beets.

  • Time of year?
  • How deep to till?
  • Where?
  • What kind are best?
  • How big of a food plot?

I have zero knowledge of planting food plots. I am only 21 and live in a suburb near Chicago. Will deer get accustomed to sugar beets if they do not already exist in the area? (Corn and beans are planted heavily around our wood lines, they switch every year.)

Thank you Grant, I appreciate all of the help you are providing to people like me!

Bobby

Bobby,

I’ve never planted sugar beets at my place or for clients. So I don’t have any first hand information. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Preparation

Dear Grant,

I’m at the beginning stages of learning food plot preparation, currently in Michigan. I have a small area at the back of my rural 5 acres which joins up with a small mixed hardwoods stand as well as several farm fields. I’ll be making about a 3/4 to 1 acre food plot and would like to know what the proper way is to prep the ground. My plan at this point is to break (rototill or disk) the ground to incorporate and kill off the existing grass and weeds that I have kept mowed to normal lawn length. Then I am going to spray the emerging weeds in late April with a 41% Glyphosate herbicide. After the recommended 2 week wait for the product to be absorbed I will plant, either by broadcast or Plotmaster 400, a combination seed plot blend called Bird & Buck gourmet produced by Dr. Paul Morrow. Please let me know what you think of my plan and if there is anything you would do differently.

Thanks,

Gerald

Gerald,

Your plan sounds fine! I always add ammonia sulfate and surfactant to Glyphosate (if it’s not included in the brand I purchased). The ammonia sulfate is readily taken up by most plants. This serves to improve the uptake of the Glyphosate.

The function of a surfactant (an abbreviation for “surface active reagent”) is to spread the spray droplet evenly over the leaf surface, help it to adhere to the leaf, and increase penetration of the herbicide into the waxy cuticle that covers the leaf surface. Just applying water to a waxy leaf surface would cause the spray droplet to bead up, so surfactants greatly facilitates spray coverage and aids in enhancing herbicide uptake (and of course the weed dies much better as well!).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Experimenting with Forage Types

Question
I want to start off by saying I love GrowingDeer.tv and everything you do for wildlife and helping others help wildlife.

I bought a 1 acre bag of Eagle Seed Wildlife Managers Mix and would like to know if you have tried that type of Eagle Seed and how it worked for you? If you have tried it what kind of fertilizer did you use? I also purchased a bag of inoculant from Eagle Seed and wondered if I should also put a packet of DeltAg on it? Could you give a rough estimate on how long this Eagle Seed will stay green? I am also planting a 1/2 acre of another brand (Ev-H) that has corn and soybeans with another 1/2 acre of Milo, peas and soybeans (Teco) from a third company. I already have a 1/2 acre of clover and chicory coming up great this spring. I have farms all around me that plant beans, corn and alfalfa. I have to plant all the different seed types in pretty much the same 4-1/2 acre area due to lack of other space on my 17 acres. I am not mixing them together so I can see what works best and will provide the wildlife forage all year. I planted the Milo, bean and pea mixture last year and it held up pretty well, but it never got totally mature because of over grazing. Do you think I have enough seed now to just go ahead and plant this year or should I buy some type of plot protector? I might also try to fit in a 1/4 acre of corn to block visibility from the road and a 1/4 acre of brassicas for late winter (if I have enough space). If you could give me a good suggestion on the corn and brassica types that would be great. I had only 1 acre planted last year and deer sightings increased greatly. It also allowed me to harvest a 5-1/2 year old or greater whitetail buck with a 20″ inside spread. It was my first ever harvest with a bow and it was also my largest whitetail to date. I am 32 years of age and live in central Pennsylvania and the first frost usually does not hit until mid-October. Also, the deer population dropped greatly because of severe poaching in the area and some were probably taken due to a bad winter! It makes me sick to my stomach because they still have not caught the poachers and so far at least 15 deer were shot. I thought you should know so it will make it a little easier on some of my questions. Any other helpful information will be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for your time and have a wonderful 4 seasons.

God bless,

Chad

Chad,

Congratulations for harvesting a mature buck!! Sounds like you are being wise and experimenting to determine what forage crops work best at your site! I strongly suggest using a utilization cage for each forage type, so preference and production can be accurately monitored.

I have tried the Eagle Seed Wildlife Manager’s Mix. In fact, I’m planting it again this year at The Proving Grounds. It typically remains green until the first frost, especially at the latitude of your property. I use innoculant, but not any other seed additive when planting Eagle Seed beans. If over browsing is a problem, Non-Typical Wildlife Solutions offers some good solutions. Over browsing is always a great indicator of too many deer for the quantity of quality forage available. So, consider the mission for your food plots and develop a plan to meet that mission. If it is protecting crops on relatively small acreage until hunting season, then a fence may be a great tool!!

You might wish to reconsider planting corn by a public road. Corn is an attractant for deer, especially during deer season. Planting corn by the road may have the opposite effect that you desire.

There are several quality brassica blends on the market. I assume you will plant the brassicas during the late summer? If so, always make sure there is plenty of quality food left on the property when you prepare to plant the brassicas to ensure you don’t clean the table and invite the deer to seek food elsewhere just before deer season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Mix Crops with Clover

Question
Dr. Grant:

I just watched your episode (GDTV 19) with Bobby Watkins at Coontail, and was wondering if planting an annual seed with the Durana Clover the first year of planting is a smart idea. I hunt several hundred acres of managed pine and it is usually difficult to maintain a productive food plot, seems as if it fades out in late October from deer pressure as well as lack of sunlight in the fall. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Bob

Bob,

If planting clover during the fall, I usually mix in wheat as a cover crop. It is important to remove the wheat before it gets one foot tall or so the following spring. I prefer using a grass-specific herbicide rather than mowing to remove the wheat and reduce competition from the clover. Mowing won’t always kill the wheat, and it leaves a huge amount of duff that can provide too much shade on the newly established clover. However, if the wheat is less than one foot tall, a grass-specific herbicide will kill the wheat and allow it to dry while standing upright. This process avoids placing a huge amount of duff on the newly established clover.

If planting clover during the spring, I don’t mix in any additional forage except chicory if I don’t plan to use a broadleaf herbicide on that plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How long do you run a deer survey with a trail camera?

I absolutely love your new website. The information that you are providing is invaluable to those of us who are actively involved in managing our properties and our deer herds. I am a consulting forester and I am sure that I will be utilizing some of the knowledge gained from your video clips in developing future forest management plans for clients. Keep up the excellent work!

Before my question, please allow me to provide a brief background; I own property in western West Virginia. I have been a member of the QDMA for 8 or 9 years now. Through articles I have read in “Quality Whitetails” I became interested in camera inventories. For the past four years I have conducted a camera inventory on my 200 acres. I modified the basic parameters somewhat in that I run one bait per 50 acres and I run the cameras for three weeks and include pictures from the very first week in the inventory. My initial thoughts were that I would just have more pictures to go through, but I am now wondering if my modifications could cause any type of biases in the data. I would be extremely interested in hearing your much respected opinion on this situation.

Thank you, in advance, for your time and advice.

Mark

Mark,

Thanks for the kind words! There are potentially tradeoffs of the intensive data collection associated with a camera survey that you discussed. Probably the most prominent is the tradeoff of collecting more data versus more disturbance to the local herd and habitat. One method to monitor the effectiveness of your techniques is to plot out the number of new bucks photographed each day of the survey. Typically, the percentage of new bucks photographed starts relatively high, then drops off to almost no new bucks by day 12 or so. In addition, are you obtaining images of the same mature bucks throughout the survey, or is it obvious that some of the mature bucks are not present due to disturbance as the survey progresses? I really enjoy checking cameras and inventorying the images, but there is a point of diminishing returns where disturbance exceeds the value of limited new data being added to the dataset.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What to Plant with a Limited Budget

Question
Grant,

Our place in southern Ohio has 6 acres of overgrown 6 yr old clover plots. The soil is poor and currently has a pH of 6.0. We cannot lime this year due to a limited budget. What would you plant?

Thanks,

George

George,

Without the proper pH and fertilizer, no forage crop will perform well. The first step is to determine your mission for the plots. For example, is it to provide quality forage during the growing season or to serve as an attractant during the hunting season? Second, what other crops are available in the neighborhood? Are your plots the only source of quality forage in the neighborhood, or are there commercial ag fields nearby? These and other factors should be considered.

I’d rather have three acres of forage that have been limed and fertilized appropriately than six acres that received limited treatments. Healthy crops will produce more tons of forage and be more attractive to deer than un-managed crops. I suggest you determine your budget, and then determine the amount and type of crops to be produced. There are very few shortcuts to producing healthy forage that deer find palatable.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Using “Shelled” Corn as Seed

Question
Grant,

Your videos are a much needed asset for land owners wanting to grow wildlife. Thanks so much.

I’m looking at planting corn this summer and I noticed a huge cost difference between “shelled corn” sold as deer/bird feed, compared to seed corn from the local seed supplier. Is there any reason the “shelled corn” can’t be planted for a wildlife plot?

Walter

Walter,

Most corn varieties are registered and protected by law. Therefore it is illegal to plant most sources of “shelled corn.” In fact, it is illegal for farmers to save the seed they harvest and replant in most cases.

Another consideration is that there are many corn varieties that are selected for specific conditions such as average precipitation, length of growing season, etc. You will have the best chance of producing a quality crop by planting a variety that was selected for the growing conditions in your area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Can I Plant in a Low pH Food Plot?

Question
Dr. Woods,

Do you know of a particular food plot seed that would work well in soils with a low pH? Using a pH meter I obtained a reading of 5.5. The area is only 1000 square feet. This little clearing in the woods gets about five hours of sunlight each day. Because this spot is so remote and hard to get to, I would like to plant a perennial type planting.

Thank you for your response,

Ernie

Ernie,

I’m not aware of any quality forage crop that expresses its potential when grown in an area with a 5.5 pH. However, 1,000 square feet is about 0.02 of an acre. Hence, 50 pounds of lime applied to this plot would be the equivalent of applying a ton per acre. I’d spread two 50 pound bags of high quality pelletized lime on the plots and not let the low pH be a limiting factor.

Perennial forages certainly require maintenance activities to continue to be productive. These activities included annual fertilizer applications, weed control, etc. In addition perennial forages all have a low or no production season. That is to say, there will be a time when they are not providing forage or attracting deer. One of the primary differences between perennial and annual forages is the need to replant the annuals. Otherwise, both types of forage crops require maintenance to keep them productive.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Killing Fescue to Establish Plots

Question
Grant,

Thank you for speaking out on your belief in Jesus Christ.

I am limited to where I can plant food plots. The places I have here in south central Tennessee are either rocky and covered in thick fescue or just thick fescue. Is there a good way to kill the fescue to be able to plant a good food plot?

Thanks again for your program.

Wade

Wade,

It is extremely rocky where I live and any openings were covered with fescue when I started, so I understand your situation. Besides being rough on equipment, exposed rocks usually indicate the local soil has very limited organic matter and won’t hold moisture very well. This results in plots that are very susceptible to droughts. I use composted litter and have been very pleased with the results and the amount of soil that has been established in my plots, as well as the antler growth that has occurred.

There are many methods to kill fescue. I prefer to prepare good fire breaks and burn the fescue just before it greens up during the spring. A slow moving backing fire will remove the dead plants, etc. This will encourage a flush of new growth from the fescue. When the new growth is 4-6” tall, I spray with two quarts of Glyphosate per acre mixed with ammonia sulfate and a surfactant. I like a sprayer/nozzle combination that produces a small droplet size and that is calibrated to discharge about 15 gallons per acre. In some cases, a second application of Glyphosate will be required, pending on the timing of the spraying, weather conditions, etc.

I then use a no-till drill or the broadcast technique to plant. Disking will only serve to bring fescue and other weed seeds closer to the soil’s surface so they can germinate. There are many programs that will work, but these steps have proven to work very well and are relatively inexpensive compared to other processes.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Works Best in Small Maine Food Plots?

Question
Grant,

It was refreshing to hear your testimony of your love of our Lord and Savior.

This year I am attempting to put in 3 or 4 small food plots on 112 acres of land where I hunt. I’m in the planning stage of what I will plant in this Maine climate. I’m thinking of some clover blends, winter rye, and a couple other options.

I appreciate your videos and insights. It is great to see what you are doing at the Proving Grounds.

Have a great Easter with others who love our risen Lord.

Al

Pastor, Canaan Calvary Church

Al,

Thanks for your comments! If the soil in your plots is fairly good, and has a pH of 6.5 to 7.0, clover blends should work fine. However, if the soil in your plots is sandy in nature, clovers may not work to well. Some clovers are drought tolerant, but that doesn’t mean they produce forage during a drought. It simply means they will likely survive a drought. Clover requires adequate soil moisture to be actively growing and producing fresh forage. The cooler temps in Maine favor many varieties of clover. If the clover in your plots go dormant during the late summer, that’s a great time to broadcast some brassicas. If the duff isn’t too thick, the brassicas will germinate with the next rain. Most varieties of brassicas will provide tons of quality forage. Then the clovers should provide a big flush of forage the next spring.

Remember that all forages are simply nutrient transfer agents. If the nutrients aren’t in the soil, plants can’t transfer them to deer. Lime and fertilize your plots based on a good soil analysis.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Topo Maps

Question

Grant,

Just one question: Where can I get a detailed, colored, topo map like you have for my property?

Thanks,

Robert


Robert,

My firm used to offer services to create such maps. Now, much of the same can be created by using Google Earth or other free/relatively inexpensive services. I really enjoyed being involved in custom mapping, but the cost was prohibitive once the on-line services became readily available and much improved. It’s true that one of the only constants is change.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Soybeans in Small Food Plots

Question
Dr. Woods,

I really enjoyed reviewing your food plot program (GDTV 18). I noticed after watching several of your videos, beans are an important part of your food plot system. My family and I own a 115 acre farm in southern Ohio where we have 4 food plots ranging in size from 1/4 acre to 3/4 acre. My smaller plots are in clovers and my larger plots are in annuals (winter rye/clover and brassicas). I rotate the annuals each year taking advantage of the nitrogen from the clover. I have always wanted to plant soybeans, but I am afraid my plots are too small due to the high deer densities we have (30-50 deer per sq. mi). Have you heard of anyone successfully planting soybeans with another crop like cereal grains or brassicas? I’m afraid if I plant SB alone, the deer will wipe them out in a matter of days. Do you have any suggestions or should I stick to the rotation I am doing now due to the limited size of my plots?

Thanks for all you do!

Darron

Darron,

I’m a huge believer in the old adage, “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.” It sounds as if you have a great program in place! Like you, I’d have some concerns about planting forage soybeans in plots less than an acre in size given the deer density you describe. Soybeans don’t produce well when planted with competition, so I’d probably stick with the blends you are using. As an alternative, you might try fencing a plot (Gallagher fences) to allow the soybeans to become established before exposing them to browse pressure. This has worked well in similar situations. Another variable is the amount of forage available in your neighborhood. Are your neighbors producing row crops or are they all timber? The amount of quality forage in the neighborhood will have an impact on your decisions.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Project X Research Project

Question

Hello there friend!

I was just curious if you were still involved in the management of the power company property in South Carolina. If you still are, are there any research papers one could find to peruse?

Hope this finds you well, and we really like the new format of http://www.GrowingDeer.tv!

God Bless,

Edwin


Edwin,

That 11 year long research project ended a few years ago. It was a fabulous learning project!! We summarized the findings and published them in a few magazines, presented at some science meetings and public seminars, etc. In addition, I published portions of that 11 year research project in the book “Deer Management 101.” Some of the deer management concepts we tested, learned, and/or tweaked during that project are now the basis for many deer management programs.

Thanks for the kind comments and enjoy Easter!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plots Limited to Ridges and Valleys

Question
Grant,

Another great episode this week (GDTV 18). I noticed on the map of your property you seem to have all your plots either on ridge tops or drainages but not on hill sides at all. Is this primarily from an erosion and access standpoint or are you taking into consideration deer movement in this arrangement as well?

Thanks,

Eric

Eric,

Thank you for your kind words! The topography at The Proving Grounds is so steep that ridge tops and valleys provide the only sites level enough that tractors, etc., won’t turn over (we’ve been to the hospital twice when an ATV turned over while simply trying to spray food plots – but thankfully no serious injuries). In addition, wind currents, thermals, etc., limit the ability to effectively bow hunt the side slopes. There is more than one reason we call this place The Proving Grounds – if it will work here, it will work almost anywhere!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Determines when Bucks Shed their Antlers?

Question

We own 230 acres in west central Mississippi. This February we collected 9 sheds, all branched antlers. I have heard you indicate that when bucks shed their antlers it is an indication of herd health. Can you explain more on this subject? This was our most productive year finding sheds. The most we have found in the past was 3. I love the info you give on this site, good luck with it.

Thank you,

Gary

Gary,

With exception for injuries or disease, the initiation of antler growth, shedding velvet and antler casting is determined by the length of daylight. Changes in the length of daylight triggers a release of hormones by glands in a buck’s body. However, changes in the amount of daylight determine a range of dates for antler shedding, and not exact dates. Wounded or malnourished bucks tend to cast their antlers earlier while well-feed bucks that are not exposed to high levels of stress will cast later. Captive deer, with relatively constant diets and stress levels tend to shed about the same time annually. However, there can be a wide range of dates when free-ranging bucks shed their antlers based on the overall environmental conditions that year and the conditions of each individual buck.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Should Corn and Soybeans be Planted Together?

Question
I have a 6 acre field, 3 acres in clover and alfalfa. The other 3 acres I want to plant corn and Eagle Beans in. Can I mix these two crops year after year on the same ground? Beans being a legume will help feed the corn. I just hate to turn my clover and alfalfa under until it starts to thin out.

Thank you,

Matt

Matt,

Corn and soybeans can be mixed, especially if they are both Roundup Ready varieties. However more yield can be produced if the beans and corn are planted separately. Without knowing the deer density/forage production ratio at your farm, it’s impossible to give an accurate recommendation of what to plant. However, I’d rather plant two acres of forage soybeans and one acre of corn compared to 3 acres of beans and corn mixed. This plan allows for each crop to be appropriately fertilized and planted at optimal times. Corn should be planted when the soil temperature is 55 degrees and soybeans planted at 62 degrees. I monitor the temperature at about 9 AM as this is typically when the soils will be coolest all day.

When the existing clover and alfalfa stands become weak, forage soybeans can be rotated in that portion of the field. If you find that the combination of forage soybeans and corn provides more tonnage throughout the year compared to the current crops, it will be easy to rotate corn and soybeans throughout the six acres.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Adding Wheat to Existing Crops

Question
Thanks for making this site available to those of us striving to become better stewards of the land.

Here’s my situation. I have 120 acres in northern Missouri. Presently I have about 12 acres available for food plots. I have 1 1/2 acres in clover and brassicas, 4 acres in alfalfa, and 4 acres in Eagle soybeans (which I really like). I want to know if I can plant some wheat in one or all of the fields for the winter and spring. If so, how do I do it without tearing up the existing fields? Can I just broadcast it on top of the soil? If not wheat, what else would you recommend?

Roy

Roy,

Winter wheat works well as a cool season forage crop. It does a fine job of transferring nutrients from the soil (if they are available) to deer. It’s also a relatively easy crop to grow. Existing alfalfa crops don’t like competition. I wouldn’t try to add wheat to an existing alfalfa stand unless you plan to eliminate the alfalfa and plant another crop the following spring.

Forage seeds need to make contact with the soil to become established. Hence, if the clover is lush or has a thick duff layer, only a small portion of the wheat will reach the soil and be able to sprout. If it’s a dry year and the clover is dormant, or the clover is mowed very close to the ground at least 45 days before the first average frost date, wheat can be drilled directly into the clover. This is a fine technique and many counties or farm coops rent no-till drills.

Like you, I really like Eagle Seed forage beans!! However, unless the deer have removed much of the bean’s canopy, they usually don’t drop their leaves in time for wheat seed that has been broadcast over the beans to germinate and grow before the first frost. I usually have to mow some of my Eagle Seed forage beans so I can plant winter wheat. If the plot is small and the local deer herd has browsed a significant portion of the beans at least 45 days before the first frost, it’s a great technique to simply broadcast wheat and fertilize directly over the beans. In this situation, plant the wheat at a heavier rate than normal as some of the wheat seed won’t have good seed to soil contact.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broomsedge Grass

Question

Was good to see you, if only briefly, at the SEDSG conference. After seeing the website, we understand why you and Brad left early. This show must go on! CONGRATS!!

Simple softball question: In the video intro, where the buck walks up and poses with his leg up, what is the name of the tall brown grass in front of him? It is widespread in the Midwest, but I’m not sure what it is. Have a great year.

Lennie


Lennie,

Great to see you again at the Southeast Deer Study Group conference! All the beans you see in the GrowingDeer.tv episodes, except some in the episode filmed in Illinois, are the Eagle Seed forage beans we discussed. I hope you will place a utilization cage on your plots this year so the growth of each forage type can be compared.

The lab I and several of my clients use is Waters Ag. I order the Basic Test 4, as I like to know the level of several trace minerals. I always tell the lab what crops I’m going to plant, and that I want a maximum yield so they can give me fertilizer recommendations to help me meet my site-specific mission.

The scientific name for the grass shown in front of that buck is Andropogon virginicus. It is also know by several common names such as: Broomgrass, Broomsage, Broomsedge bluestem, Broomstraw, Sage grass, and Yellow bluestem.

It is a native warm-season grass that is often confused with little bluestem. However, in the fall/winter Broomsedge is typically yellowish tan, while little bluestem has a bronzy color. Broomsedge rarely is more than 2 feet tall at maturity. Seeds are light and fluffy. It’s an indicator of poor land as dense stands are indicative of acid soils, phosphorus deficiency or overgrazing. That pretty much describes The Proving Grounds, except where I’ve used Antler Dirt to improve the soil.

I hope our paths cross before the next annual Southeast Deer Study Conference!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Does Composted Chicken Litter Spread Disease?

Question

Dr. Woods,

I am curious about the Antler Dirt product that you use. I know it is made out of composted chicken litter but I have heard problems around here (south central Missouri) with the turkey population being affected by farmers using chicken litter on their fields. I don’t know if it’s a disease being spread from the chickens to the turkeys through the litter or if it’s just hearsay. I do have a few friends that did have large numbers of turkeys on their farms and after using chicken litter for several years have seen a huge decrease in the numbers. Any information you could share with me about this would be very helpful. I would like to try the Antler Dirt product, as I have very similar soils and topography compared to you. I just don’t want a negative effect on the turkeys. Thank you very much and I appreciate your Christian beliefs and sharing them on your show.

Derek


Derek,

There is a decline in the turkey population in most of Missouri (https://huntfish.mdc.mo.gov/hunting-trapping/species/turkey/turkey-reports/spring-turkey-harvest-map). This is probably due in large part to the very cold and wet conditions that have occurred during the past two nesting seasons. I believe predators are also accounting for part of the decrease in the turkey population. I have trapped 200+ predators at The Proving Grounds during the past four years and my turkey population has increased significantly (at at time when it is declining in most of Missouri). I’ve also improved the habitat, so I can’t single out any one factor. However, it has been very cold and wet here also and the population at The Proving Grounds is the best its been since I’ve been here.

Disease being spread to wild turkeys by spreading poultry litter was more of a concern before most poultry farmers significantly improved their operations. There are literally millions of tons of litter spread annually now in many major turkey states with very, very few reported problems. However, that’s not to say there aren’t some poultry farmers out there that haven’t switched to the newer operating style.

Antler Dirt products have compost added to it and are put through a further heating process to kill any potentially dangerous bacteria. Simultaneously, good bacteria that builds soil is added. Antler Dirt is much different from raw litter. I’ve used Antler Dirt products exclusively at The Proving Grounds for five years and I’m very pleased with the results and my turkey population.

Growing Deer (and turkey) together,

Grant

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Planting Corn and Soybeans Together

Question
Dr. Woods,

I’m asking this question for my husband. He and I both hunt. He hunts more, but I have the computer skills!

We own 75 acres in central Virginia. Last year we planted 10 acres of continuous soybean acreage for tax purposes. We are now required to plant these 10 continuous acres. But it is such a large area that we didn’t see many deer using the soybeans during daylight. This year, we want to try corn since we think it will provide food and cover…is this correct? We have a tractor and drill but not a corn planter. Can we use a drill? How many pounds per acre should we plant? Do we need to spray for weeds since it’s going to be for wildlife and we are not too worried about high production? And lastly, is it possible to mix soybeans with the corn or should we just plant the corn by itself?

Thanks and great videos, we watch each week!

Ami

Ami,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Are there other soybean fields in the area? I ask to determine if the local deer herd is conditioned to consuming soybeans. There are no other soybeans planted near The Proving Grounds. The deer living at my place, nor their deceased relatives, had ever seen a soybean to my knowledge. It took a couple of years for the deer to learn soybeans were a good source of forage here.

The group 7 forage soybeans from Eagle Seed usually get 4′ +/- tall, and provide cover till they get consumed or mowed. Corn provides better cover, but doesn’t provide any quality food during the antler and fawn development season. Therefore, it seems planting half the field in corn and half in soybeans would be a good option. I use a no-till drill to plant corn. I simply use cardboard and tape to block every other downspout. This allows me to open the seed meter wider on the remaining downspouts so the corn seed doesn’t get cracked (and therefore won’t germinate).

I used to commonly mix corn and soybeans in food plots. However, a better yield can be produced if they are planted and managed separately. I would strongly suggest controlling the weeds. The crop’s yield will be much higher, and there won’t be as many weed seeds in the field the following year!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Loquat Trees in Alabama

Question

Grant,

I am considering planting loquat trees on a deer hunting property in south Alabama along with a number of other hard and soft mast trees. I have searched for info on whitetail use of loquat trees or mast, but have found no such references. Do you know if whitetail deer and/or other game animals (turkey, squirrel, etc) will eat the loquat fruit?

Kenneth


Kenneth,

I’ve never planted or managed loquat trees. I’ve read about loquat trees in south Alabama producing fruit, but most literature I’ve read state they rarely produce fruit north of Jacksonville, Florida. I do believe deer and other critters will consume the fruit. If you plant some, please let me know how they do!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Job Inquiry

Question
Dr. Woods,

I am an Air Force Veteran that recently graduated from Missouri State University with a wildlife conservation and management degree. I currently live in Lebanon, Missouri and really enjoy living in the Ozarks. I know you know a lot of people in the outdoor industry and I was wondering if you happen to know anyone that is looking for a wildlife manager or technician? I realize you probably get tons of email inquires about jobs, but I figured it was worth a shot. It’s not easy to get connected to private individuals that are looking for these type of employees. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Byron

Byron,

Thank you for your service to our country!! I don’t currently know of any property manager’s positions. You are wise to continue staying in touch with folks in the industry. You might also consider attending events (such as the QDMA’s banquets, convention, etc.) to meet owners of properties managed for wildlife.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Plant Fruit Trees

Question

Hello again Grant,

You for sure have the best how-to-videos I have seen yet!!

With seedling planting season just around the corner, or here for most people, do you plan on putting up a video to show people the correct way, time, weed control and places to plant wildlife friendly seedlings? Also, I notice on a lot of forums that people are planting more apple orchards and a how-to-video for them would be greatly appreciated by a lot of people. You could show them how to plant, cage, protect and care for them since they are a labor of love.

I prefer a fall planting (for my area) from nurseries that will ship to me in the fall, but the MDC nursery only ships in spring.

Philip


Philip,

Thanks for the kind comments about GrowingDeer.tv! I literally film each week what I’m doing at the time. I don’t have a subject or production schedule. It’s simply what I’m working on at the time. With that said, I don’t plan to plant any trees for wildlife this spring.

The QDMA has published a few articles about establishing and maintaining fruit trees for wildlife. I found them very informative. I believe one of the articles was published last year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Cut Cedars for Cover?

Question

Just found this site off of Midwest Whitetail. The first episode I watched was your segment over deer and land management. I have a question about GDTV 15.  My timber is mainly made up of hardwoods and red cedar. My cedar thickets are just like the ones on the video. I’m using this part of my farm as a sanctuary, but I know it needs improvements. Do you think clearing some of the cedars to let more sun in will work better than hinge cutting areas?

Mike


Mike,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Cutting and burning the cedar will usually let more sunlight reach the soil than hinge cutting, especially during the growing season. The bigger question is what will grow once the cedars are cut and burned.

I wait two years after cutting cedars to let the larger stems dry before burning to increase the amount consumed by fire. If the site was not historically tilled, there is probably a great variety of seed from native grasses and forbs that will germinate after the fire. However, if the cedars are growing where ag crops were produced, the resulting forage may or may not be desirable. If not, you’ll need to spray and replant to a desirable type of cover. Are there any desirable native forbs or grasses growing among the cedar currently? If so, removing the cedars and burning will most likely result in a great stand of native grasses and forbs. With a little scouting, you can probably determine what species will repopulate the area if the cedars are removed.

There was a GREAT response of desirable native vegetation that germinated at The Proving Grounds as the land was too steep and rocky to have been tilled historically.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Aging Deer by Using the Lower Jaw

Question
First off, this is a great site with wonderful information. I love seeing folks that like to share their experiences, that’s what it’s all about. Keep up the great work Grant.

I was curious if you could add to your previous jawbone segment by showing the actual extraction process this fall on one of these episodes?

Thanks,

Andy

Andy,

Thank you for the encouraging words! I literally film whatever I’m working on each week. I age gads of deer using the tooth wear and replacement technique so that would be a likely subject this fall. Thanks for the suggestion!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Is it Beneficial to Let Wheat Mature?

Question
I enjoyed GDTV 14 and I had a few questions.

You didn’t mention the value of mature winter wheat (seed heads) to deer and other wildlife. Any comments?

Is there a “spring” wheat equivalent that I can plant in an area for summer feeding where there is severe grazing pressure?

Andy

Andy,

Mature wheat grain has some nutritional value. However, it is not as rich in most nutrients as corn or soybean grain. Another consideration is the time between the forage stage of wheat and when the grain ripens. During this stage, wheat is not palatable or very nutritious to deer. This occurs when does are having/nursing fawns and bucks are producing antlers. Most deer managers can’t afford to tie up food plot real estate during this time while waiting for wheat to mature to the grain stage. Unless I plan to use the wheat grain for a dove field, I spray wheat during early spring and prepare the plot for a more desirable warm season forage crop.

There are usually much better forage options than wheat during the warm season, so I don’t plant spring wheat.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Size of The Proving Grounds

Question

Hello Grant,

Out of curiosity, how many acres is The Proving Grounds?

Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this website. It’s very helpful.

Scott


Scott,

Thanks for the kind words! The Proving Grounds is 1,576 acres. We own another 567 acres that is contiguous with our original purchase. We don’t manage the 567 acre tract. We purchased it literally to keep it from being developed. We plan to sell it sometime in the future. We’d rather have a good deer manager as a neighbor than 400 houses, dogs, etc.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Coyote Predation Study

Dr. Woods,

I wanted to let you know that I have just received a copy of your book Deer Management 101 (actually, already autographed), and I really enjoyed reading it. I just watched your video where you mention a study done by a grad student Cory Van Gilder. I have tried to locate it, but haven’t had any luck. I recently returned to college (after 12 yrs.) and I am finally a senior at OSU, studying under Stan Gehrt. We have a lot of deer/coyote conversations (in and out of class), and I would like some more information about the research mentioned earlier.

As a side note, please check out http://www.americasfreedomlodge.org to see how we enjoy spending time with our veterans. We love to get them in the woods! We have approximately 490 acres we manage under QDMA guidelines. However, we don’t place any restrictions on the veterans. Last year I was able to guide a disabled father(Vietnam)/son(Iraq) team for their first ever deer hunts. Both took deer with crossbows that day. Words can’t describe how all parties involved felt. Anyway, if you are ever up this way (central Ohio) PLEASE let us know…we would love to have you visit the lodge.

Thanks,

Shane

Shane,

Thanks for honoring our Vets!! That’s a great mission!

A summary of Cory’s work was published in the Quality Deer Management Association’s Quality Whitetails magazine in the 3rd issue, June 2009 (pages 20-24). It will also soon be published in a technical journal.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Preferred Food Plot Shape

Dr. Woods,

I’ve always read and understood articles that state deer prefer long, winding lanes of food as opposed to large open areas of food plots. Have there been any studies to back this up and is there an “ideal” width for a food plot lane? I’ve always heard 15-30 yards, but was wondering if there is any data, other than personal observation to back this up. Also, are there any particular food plot shapes such as the classic serpentine shape that might attract more deer and game to use the plot?

Thanks!

Eric

Eric,

I’m not aware of any published research that reports the shape of plots deer prefer. Deer readily feed in large ag fields during daylight hours if there is minimal hunting pressure in the area. Conversely, deer rarely are observed feeding in large openings in areas with a higher frequency of hunting pressure. I believe managing hunting pressure is a better tool for observing deer during daylight hours than food plot shape. Serpentine-shaped plots are great for stalking game, if the hunting pressure is kept to a minimum. Ideally, deer can feed while being close to cover. Narrow plots provide that for deer. They also provide some advantages to hunters as narrow plots tend to channel the wind and reduce the swirling and wind eddy’s usually associated with larger openings. This alone is a huge advantage for hunters. Narrow plots will be the subject of an upcoming episode of GrowingDeer.tv — so stay tuned!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Plant Clover

I have tried to plant clover in the past and haven’t had the best luck. My first big problem is the seed is so small. Any advice on planting clover, or any other plant that would be just as good?

Kevin

Kevin,

There are several options depending on the planting method being used. If you are using the broadcast method, sand can be mixed with the clover seed to serve as a filler so a larger volume can be broadcast. As to your question about crop selection, the crop selected should be picked for the mission it is to serve. There are perennials, annuals, browse tolerant, extremely palatable, etc. It is important to match the crop with the mission of the plot!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Broadcasting Soybeans and Corn

I love your site! I hunt about a 60 acre woods that has a 2 acre opening that I would like to plant. I can’t get farm equipment to the field, so I would like to know if I could broadcast corn and soybeans?

Thanks for a GREAT SITE!

Earvin

Earvin,

Thanks for the kind words! Soybeans and corn can be successfully planted using the broadcast method. However, the seed must have good contact with the soil. Ideally, each seed is covered by soil. This can be accomplished by using a drag, etc. When using the broadcast method to plant large-sized seed, it is critical to have a good seedbed prepared (bare dirt — no duff) and the ability to pack the seed into the soil. When using this technique, it’s usually necessary to plant at least 1/3 more seed per acre than recommended as some seed won’t be covered by soil, and will be consumed by birds, etc. In addition, planting just before a rain increases the success of this technique as the raindrops will splash soil on to the seed. Small-sized seed like clover, etc., is usually a better option if broadcasting is the only method that can be used to plant.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Brassicas and Crop Rotations

Question
Crop rotation is an important and proven technique, so this isn’t an attempt to question the practice or its benefits. However, it’s often said that planting brassicas more than two years in a row can result in disease and a multiple year recovery problem. Crop rotation is a wise practice, but can be difficult for someone who has limited acreage for plots, and brassicas as a preferred crop. Have you ever seen or heard of a disease problem in a food plot situation due to planting brassica 3 or 4 years in a row in the same plot? Would a summer rotation of a legume potentially reduce the risk?

Thanks,

Phil

Phil,

I don’t know of any research that addresses your specific question. I have observed brassicas planted in the same plot for multiple years with no obvious problem. However, the soil in these plots were analyzed annually and soil nutrients added based on the recommendations. In addition a legume, such as soybeans, was grown in the plots each summer.

All plots where the forage is consumed and removed frequently must have soil nutrients added to maintain the health of future crops. Natural processes won’t replenish the nutrients as rapidly as they are removed by critters consuming the crop. To safeguard against depleting the soil of nutrients, it is best to have the soil in such plots analyzed annually. When having the soil’s nutrient availability analyzed, I strongly recommend testing for several micronutrients in addition to nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). Micronutrients can be just as much of a limiting factor as N, P, and K, but are often over looked in food plots. Maintaining adequate levels of micronutrients is a critical step toward producing healthy crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Preferred Size and Shape of Food Plots

Question
What shape and size is your favorite for food plots? I have tended to make the plots too big (for bow hunting) and I was thinking of doing a 20-30 yard wide, winding food plot that would probably be 1/4 mile or longer in length.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Cory

Cory,

I forgot to answer the above portion of your question. Sorry! I like long, skinny plots as they tend to channel the wind and make controlling/predicting where a hunter’s scent flows easier!! In addition, deer like feeding in areas that are close to cover. However, deer can be out of bow range in such designs. No matter what the shape and size of plot, a larger factor that determines the amount of use by deer during daylight is the amount of hunting pressure at or near the plot. Figuring hunting pressure into the equation is a highly overlooked part of food plot design.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Trail Cameras for Turkeys

Dear Dr. Woods,

I found your website thanks to QDMA and thoroughly enjoy it! Also, I met you at the Cabela’s seminar last fall. I have 3 questions:

  1. I noticed that although you placed your scouting camera high, it appears that it’s facing an east/west direction. If I do that with my camera I get lots of pictures of the sun rising/setting. Shouldn’t you have it facing a north/south direction?
  2. What do you do differently when placing a camera to scout for deer vs. scouting for turkeys?
  3. What was planted in the food plot where all the turkeys came in?

Thanks for your time.

Sincerely,

Robert

Landowner

Robert,

I always place my Reconyx trail cameras facing in a generally north position. I think I turned the one in that episode east so the shadows wouldn’t mess up filming. You are correct and very observant!

The biggest difference between how I use trail cameras for deer and turkey is that I rarely place the units for deer where I expect to hunt as I don’t wish to disturb that area with scent, noise, etc. Rather, I place the cameras in larger feeding food plots, etc. The data collected at areas that are primarily used at night allow me to figure out where deer are moving during daylight hours. However, I commonly place my cameras where I expect to hunt for turkeys because they have a very limited sense of smell. I also almost always use the time lapse feature to scout an entire field or opening for turkeys.

I believe you are referring to a plot planted with a mix of winter wheat and clover. Turkeys like low growing crops to consume the forage and insects. Turkeys don’t like thick, tall forage, except for nesting.

I hope our paths cross again this year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Maximizing Clover Yields

Question
Grant,

We use a great deal of white & red clover in our food plots. They average about 2 to 3 acres. The deer seem to feed heavily on these plots. What can I do to supplement the clover without destroying it? Also, how can I get more yield out of the clover?

Bruce

Bruce,

Maximizing clover yields can be accomplished by ensuring the crops have plenty of nutrients and eliminating competition (weeds).

The best method to insure clover is well fed is to have the plot’s soil analyzed annually to see what nutrients should be added. Remember that forage crops are simply nutrient transfer agents. They take nutrients from the soil and air and convert them to a form deer can digest. If the nutrients aren’t present, they can’t be transferred to deer. Deer consume the forage, and therefore remove nutrients annually. Unless they are replaced, the crop will be malnourished. Maximizing nutrient transfer requires very healthy forage crops.

I use Waters Ag to analyze the soil from my plots. I request they provide a maximum yield recommendation. Most folks don’t realize there are multiple recommendations soil labs can give. Since acreage for food plots is usually limited, I need each acre to produce at the maximum yield. Most labs give ag field recommendations (or optimum economic return recommendations). They are giving a recommendation for a level of fertilizer that limits cost (and yield) in an effort to find a balance that maximizes profit. I need max yield from my plots, since it is less expensive to add more fertilizer than to establish more plots.

It’s also critical to insure the limiting factors such as sun, soil moisture, and soil nutrients are available to the desired crop. This means weeds must be controlled as they are direct competition to forage crops. Weeds are tougher to control in clover than some other forage crops. However, there are grass-specific herbicides that can be sprayed over clover, and mowing does an OK job of keeping most broad leaf weeds under control.

Clover can be a good tool in the food plot manager’s bag. However, it must be fed and managed to remain healthy and productive.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Road Maintenance in Hilly Topography

Question

Grant,

First off, great job on your site! This is very good stuff. Now onto the deer management side, I’ve got a 360 acre piece in western KY and it is HILLY. I’d love to see you do a piece on road construction to avoid erosion. Our initial dozer work was needed to get into the property, but in hindsight it would’ve been much better to hire “smart” dozer operators who understood road building. We’ve brought in many, many trucks of gravel on main segments, but nonetheless we’ve got lots of erosion and I’m headed out with a team of 15 guys in a few months to repair (and hopefully fix) the roads correctly for the long term. I’d love to see you do a piece on this.

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for the kind words!! We just filmed a brief segment about road maintenance to be shown on the Pursuit Channel. I don’t know when that will air. I hope to do a more detailed segment on road construction and maintenance on GrowingDeer.tv. However, every episode of GrowingDeer.tv is literally what we are doing that week. It will be summer before we do any road maintenance at The Proving Grounds. In the meantime, I suggest you learn about broad-based dips. They are my favorite road maintenance tool in hilly topography! Ditches, and other common road maintenance designs, rarely work as planned unless maintenance is very frequent. This is because ditches become clogged with debris and force the water over the road, causing erosion. The best road maintenance plan is to limit the amount of water and the speed at which water passes over dirt/gravel roads. Water control is outstanding road maintenance.

Growing Deer (and managing properties) together,

Grant

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Where are You Scheduled to Speak?

Hey Grant,

I just wanted to say that I have just discovered your GrowingDeer.tv website and I love it!! I have watched all of the videos in your archive and very impatiently wait on your new one every week. I know a few people in the outdoor and hunting industry and have listened to quite a few different biologists do seminars and you are by far my favorite. Is there anywhere that I can access a list of where you are scheduled to speak?

Thanks,

David

David,

Thank you for the kind words!! I’ll try to begin posting dates of some of my speaking engagements in the blog section of GrowingDeer.tv. I’ll be speaking at Swedesborg, MO April 16th, 2010. In addition, I will be speaking at QDMA’s national convention in July (www.QDMA.com) and a major conference about land and wildlife management in Nashville during mid-August.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Food Plot Shapes and Sizes

Question
I have about 100 acres of hardwoods (mature white oaks) on the very southern end of my property. My property butts up to another large parcel of timber. There are lots of ironwoods and scattered honey locust trees and other junk trees throughout. If I were to take out all the trees but the white oaks there would be enough sunlight for rye, oats, peas, red clover, etc.

What shape and size is your favorite for food plots? I tend to make the plots too big (for bow hunting) and I was thinking of doing a 20-30 yard wide winding food plot that would probably be 1/4 mile or longer in length.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Cory

Cory,

Most clover varieties will grow if they receive at least 1/2 day sunlight or more. Crops grown in partial shade are usually not as productive as if they were grown in full sunlight. During droughts, or crops planted on dry sites, partial shade during the afternoon hours (time of day when most soil moisture evaporation occurs) can be beneficial. When designing plots in areas with shade use a north-south orientation on sites that tend to be dry. This orientation will provide the most shade and limit the amount of soil moisture that evaporates. On sites that tend to hold to much soil moisture, an east west orientation is better as this will allow more soil moisture to be evaporated from the plot.

Another consideration is the amount of leaves that will fall on the forage when planted among trees. Leaves can shade out the forage if not removed from the plot.

At your site, if the non-oak trees are harvested be sure you address the soil compaction that results from the timber harvesting. Soil compaction is a huge limiting factor to forage growth!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Toxic Brassicas?

I had you come out to our farm in New York three years ago. Since then I have moved to a new farm. I had a lot of success planting BioMaxx in our newly cleared fields and I followed-up the next year with brassicas. Would you suggest the same schedule with a non-high fenced piece of property? We have a great limestone supply on site so soil is not the issue. The issue is this new “toxic” problem with brassica.

Nick

Nick,

Good to hear from you! Corn and soybeans are great sources of energy and protein for deer. I’ve switched to planting them separately rather than blended as they can be managed and produce more yield that way. I assume your comment about limestone means you have access to ag lime. The Ozark Mountains, where I live, are limestone mountains. However, the local native pH averages about 5.6. Remember that pH is on a logarithmic scale — the difference between 5.6 and 6.6 is 10 fold. It is always best to have the soil analyzed and add lime and fertilizer per the recommendations based on a site-specific current soil test.

I’ve heard there are some advertisements about brassicas being toxic. This is very unfortunate. Brassicas are a primary forage for the HUGE captive deer industry in New Zealand. I’ve toured those farms and visited with New Zealand researchers. I’m not aware of any toxicity problems with Brassicas. Furthermore, deer have consumed millions of pounds of brassicas in the states and I’m not aware of a single reported toxicity case. Any plant can be toxic if that is the only plant consumed. Deer are very selective feeders, especially wild deer. I rate brassica toxicity a ZERO concern for wild, free-ranging deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Forage Grows Well on Sandy Georgia Soils?

Question
I deer hunt in sandy southeast Georgia (Waynesboro). What are some good spring time food plots that would work for our very warm springs and long hot summers? Rain is infrequent that time of year in this part of the country. Thanks for your time. This is a great site you have.

Thanks again and happy hunting,

Paul

Paul,

I do a lot of work in Georgia and know the Waynesboro area well. I’ve had good success with Eagle Seed Forage soybeans in that area (and further south in Georgia). My best success on sandy sites has occurred when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.0 and I’ve used composted poultry litter for fertilizer. Composted litter can hold a huge amount of moisture. It also helps raise the pH so not as much lime is needed. In addition, soils with a pH in the 6.5 to 7.0 range will hold more moisture than more acidic soil. This is a huge help against drought stress.

I plant the forage soybeans when the soil temperature is at 62 degrees. When determining soil temperature, aim for the coolest time of the day (9 AM). Soil temperature thermometers are available at most good farm stores. The temperature of the soil should be monitored at the depth the seed is to be planted. In addition, the http://www.georgiaweather.net/ website lists soil temperatures throughout Georgia — a great tool!! If beans are planted when the soil is cooler, they will be much slower to germinate and grow, and can become easily stressed. If they are planted when the soil is much warmer, the seedlings can become stressed and very susceptible to drought.

Clover rarely is very productive on sites with sandy soils during the summer. Forage soybeans usually provide much more tonnage and are more drought resistant.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Reaction Time of Lime

Question
Does liming during fall planting help at all for that winter?

Derek

Derek,

The reaction time of lime is related to the particle size. The size of lime particles is measured by a sieve. A size 100 sieve has 100 holes per square inch. A size 60 sieve has 60 holes per square inch, etc. Most states require agricultural lime to be ground small enough that 60% of the lime passes through a size 60 sieve. Specialty lime can be purchased that is ground to a smaller size. The smaller the size of the lime particles, the faster the lime reacts in with the soil to change the pH. However, the smaller the size of the lime particles the shorter the period of time the pH will be changed as all the lime will react rapidly with the soil and other elements will begin reacting to make the soil more acidic again.

So, if you apply standard ag lime during the fall there will most likely be minimal improvement to the soil’s pH during the first few months.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the Best Way to Build Soil Productivity?

Question
I just found your site, and I am very impressed! I was wondering if at some point you could discuss the best ways for building soil productivity, in particular using natural means such as fire, tilling in dormant growth, natural fertilizers, etc.

David

David,

Thanks for the kind words! Fire is a great tool, but the primary goal of most prescribed fire is not to build soil. Rather, it is to limit the growth of some plant species and encourage the growth of others. Tilling in vegetation can be a good practice. However, tilling in general isn’t beneficial to soil. It often causes compaction just below the level of tillage from the pressure/weight of the equipment. Tilling also exposes the soil and encourages evaporation of existing soil moisture. This is why using a no-till drill is considered a great conservation tool. In fact, we never disk, plow, etc., at The Proving Grounds — we only plant with a no-till drill.

We also use an organic fertilizer. It is made by composting and adding humus bacteria (and other microbes and trace minerals) to poultry litter. The producers I get this product from have named it Antler Dirt. I agree — as it has been a great tool to allow my once nutrient poor soils to produce great crops (and deer). I have the soil analyzed annually in each plot at The Proving Grounds and have noticed a significant increase in the organic matter (both as reported on the soil analyses, the feel of the soil, and the quality and quantity of crops produced). I’ve used the recipe of using a no-till drill and organic fertilizer from South Carolina to Missouri and have been very pleased with the results (and antlers).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the Best Plan for Food Plots in Northeast Florida?

Question
I have a 2100 acre lease in northeast Florida. Our club wants to plant food plots this year, but I get so much conflicting information about what and when to plant. My fear is not doing it right and wasting our precious dollars, time and effort. What is the best “plan” for food plots? The reading and research I’ve done suggests about 10% of our acreage should be planted. That’s a lot of land for a poor man’s hunt club. Can you help? Any information would be helpful and most appreciated!

Bill

Bill,

Food plots crops, establishment techniques, etc., are like planes. There are a lot of different models and each is designed for a different mission. So, the first step is to define the mission based on the realistic resources (funding and time) available. For example, a plan to clearcut, destump, and establish food plots on 10% of a 2,100 acre lease (210 acres) may be a good plan, but might not be realistic. What to plant is also based on goal of your mission. If your mission is to simply attract deer for observation/harvest, then fall food plots might be a tool to help complete the mission. If the mission is to improve the herd’s health, then warm season food plots are probably necessary to successfully meet the objectives. The percentage of total hunting area that should be converted to food plots is extremely variable. This is based on the mission and the local deer herd density. There’s a huge difference in the amount of quality forage necessary to allow a herd to express its full potential if the herd density is 20 compared to 50 deer per square mile. The quantity of quality native vegetation is also a huge factor to consider. If a property is totally composed of mature, unthinned pines, then food plots are necessary to provide almost all of the quality forage necessary to allow a deer herd to express its potential. However, if the property has a significant component of quality native vegetation, that will supply a portion of the herd’s nutritional needs.

No matter what the food plot mission, I always…

  1. Collect soil samples and have them analyzed to see how much lime and fertilizer should be added to produce the maximum yield crop.
  2. I only establish as many acres of plots as I can afford to lime and fertilize appropriately. More yield can be produced from half the acreage if the soil nutrients are available compared to planting on sites with suboptimal levels of soil nutrients available.
  3. Place a utilization cage in every plot. A utilization cage is a simple exclosure usually constructed from web wire (4′ tall by 10′ long to make a 3′ diameter exclosure). The goal is to exclude deer from consuming the forage within the exclosure so an accurate comparison can be made at a glance to the quantity of forage produced inside the cage to outside where the deer are browsing. The bigger the difference in height between the inside and outside of the exclosure, the greater the need for reducing the herd density, adding more acres of plots, or both actions simultaneously.

Finally, realize that all farming activities are risky. Crops fail with the best of equipment and on the best soils. Food plots are even more likely to fail. However, without risk, there is no chance of reward.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the Impact of Free-ranging Dogs on a Deer Herd?

Question
Dear Grant,

Thanks for having a great site for hard core deer managers. I especially enjoyed seeing you and your Dad hunt together! It brought back many fond memories of hunts with my Dad and Grandfather.

On the family farm that we hunt, we have a problem with free running pet dogs. How much of an impact do these dogs have on our deer herd? I have seen and heard 2 beagle size dogs run across the 250 acre farm howling all the way. The farm is in southeast Iowa and 50/50 timber and CRP. We planted 40 acres of NWSG 2 years ago for cover and it is 6 feet tall. We also planted 7 acres of alfalfa, 4 acres of clover, and 8 acres of RR soy beans. Attempts to find the owners of these dogs have been futile.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

I really enjoy hunting with my father. In fact, he joined me last weekend to look for sheds! I hope I’m physically able and have the desire to walk that much when I’m 79 years old!

The habitat at your family farm sounds great! It’s sad when a family makes the level of commitment yours obviously has to improve wildlife habitat and then have recreational experiences damaged by free-ranging dogs owned by irresponsible owners. Not only can free-ranging dogs spoil hunting experiences, they harass and kill wildlife!! Sadly enough, such dogs are protected in some states. Where they are not protected, it seems dogs that roam shouldn’t go home.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Should I Supplemental Feed the Deer Protein to Make Up for the Lack of Food Plots?

Question
I am a member of a 6200 acre hunting club in northeast Louisiana. We kill some very nice deer and have a wonderful turkey population. The club is a timber operation that hinders our management at times of the year. We have limited amount of acreage for food plots and can’t plant any spring plots for the deer because of restrictions for nesting turkeys. Should I supplemental feed the deer protein to make up for the lack of food plots? Our club has 13 members for 6200 acres and each member controls a block of his own land (around 300 acres) and we also have areas anyone can hunt. All total we have around 70 acres of food plots (which isn’t enough). I recently put out 4 mineral sites of antler max in my area and wanted to feed protein to make up for the lack of food plot acreage. Any help would be great!

Thanks,

Lee

Lee,

Supplemental feeding can improve the average body weight, fawn production, and antler size of deer. However, there are also potential negative ramifications of feeding. In humid/wet areas bacteria and mold grows freely on most forms of feed. Some of these micro organisms can be very harmful to deer, turkey, and other forms of wildlife. There is always the possibility of a deer being sick and passing on that sickness to other deer through direct contact, saliva, etc., at feeders. Predators learn to hunt feeders, and non target critters, like raccoons, can literally remove more feed than the deer herd. Simply stated, a good feeding program requires a huge amount of effort and expense.

The potential of such problems can be reduced by literally cleaning feeders and moving them frequently, etc. However, I rarely see clubs go to the huge effort necessary to tend feeders correctly. Where possible, it is safer and less expensive to grow crops rather than pay someone else to grow, harvest, process, bag, and ship the crops and then you tend the feeders. With this said, there are several very successful feeding programs throughout the whitetails range. Before starting a feeding program, you should carefully consider all the ramifications so you can make a decision based on accurate information.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the Best Late Winter Protein Crop?

Question
Dear Grant,

First off, I would like to thank you for answering my question in the past. I really love your site and information. On our farm we plant corn, soybeans, rye, wheat, and oats for the deer. The problem is I would like to have something high in protein for the months of March and April. I can’t seem to get clover started well and you can’t seem to spray chicory with many chemicals for weeds. Any thoughts on that would be wonderful. Do you think something like plotsaver would help the clover get started or should I just try something else?

Kevin

Kevin,

Clover rarely puts on much volume from existing stands in early March at The Proving Grounds (Branson, MO for a latitude comparison). New stands have zero production at this time. Clover, like all growing forage, requires a certain amount of heat to germinate or grow. Clover is best suited to provide quality forage during the spring and late fall (if there is adequate soil moisture). Standing grains provide great food for wildlife during the late winter months. You stated you planted corn and soybeans. These are two great crops for your mission. Corn grain provides a great source of energy and relatively low amounts of protein. Standing soybean grain provides very high quality protein and suitable quantities of quality energy. Remember that forage soybeans provide super high quality forage during the growing season and grain during the winter months (if the plot is big enough it is not over browsed). If you can leave enough corn and soybeans standing so the local herd has plenty to eat through the late winter, your forage management plan would be outstanding!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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When is Doe Harvesting Too Much?

When is doe harvesting too much? We have harvested 1005 deer in the last 5 years. Of which, 123 are mature bucks (3.5+) and 70 are button bucks. It is now hard to see does and many, many times we see nothing but bucks on our cameras and hunting outings. We try not to shoot immature bucks by having antler restrictions, etc. The properties range from 180 acres to small 10 acre plots all in the same township, about 3000 acres of total huntable property and most of the plots are under 80 acres.

Cliff

Cliff,

Doe harvest should be conducted for two reasons. This includes reducing the herd’s density to match the habitat’s capacity to produce quality forage (fewer mouths competing for the available forage). The second primary reason is to balance the adult sex ratio. There are other reasons such as crop damage, etc., to reduce a herd’s density. Those are political reasons — I’m only addressing biological reasons.

Since I have no idea of how many deer are in your area, I can only recommend you set your doe harvest goals based on the quality of the habitat you desire to maintain. If you desire the local herd to express its full potential, then the herd density must be low enough to allow the habitat to produce enough quality browse so that each deer has all the nutritious forage they wish to consume.

Bottom line, I establish doe harvest objectives by the goals of the landowner, and the habitat quality/herd density relationship. This relationship is way more important than simply considering the number of deer per square mile (or any other density measure that is not based on available forage).

Does become conditioned to being hunted, and can become extremely wary and nocturnal. Deer observations are an important part of hunter satisfaction, and should be considered when designing any deer harvest quota. However, deer observations by themselves are rarely a good indicator of herd or habitat health. The health of the habitat is the true indicator of a herd’s potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Improving the Limiting Factor

Question
Dr. Woods,

Corn and some switchgrasses, such as Cave in Rock SG, both grow upwards of 6 feet and both provide cover. I have the resources to plant corn and SG. There are many factors that appeal to me about planting corn in that it is a great attractant for deer hunting.

I already have 5% in food plots on my 100 acre property which consists of a yearly planting of 3 acres of corn/soybean mix (in the form of 1 large destination plot) and 2 acres of clover and small grains (in the form of 4 smaller attraction plots). I’m not surrounded by ag crops and am mostly surrounded by cover. To my knowledge, I am the only one in my area within 1,000 acres planting food plots.

I have the option this year to plant an additional 5 acres of corn/soybean mix or seed Cave In Rock switchgrass. I’m having a tough time deciding which to plant. On one hand I feel the corn provides cover and food and on the other hand I feel SG might provide consistent cover (but no food). The area I’m considering is on a power line easement that currently is only small shrubby growth that doesn’t seem to provide much cover or food. Any recommendations on which route to take (I know you can only do so much without seeing a property)? Keep up the nice work!

David

David,

Corn does provide cover during several months of the year. The grain is also a great source of energy for deer and many other forms of wildlife. However, corn planted at the same location for repeated years often suffers from loss of micronutrients and pests frequently build to damaging levels. Crop rotation, along with annual soil analysis and adding the appropriate fertilizer, is necessary to keep any ag fields productive.

However, your statements that “The area I’m considering is on a power line easement…” and “…am mostly surrounded by cover…” bias me toward recommending you develop that area into food (corn/forage soybean rotation would be great) rather than permanent cover. Based on your statements, I assume cover is not a limiting factor in your neighborhood. In addition, critters using narrow strips of cover are very susceptible to predation. Predators can easily hunt the downwind side of narrow patches of cover and smell prey species within those areas.

When I was in grad school (many years ago), it became a common practice to leave narrow strips of timber unharvested along small streams as a buffer for erosion, shade for the stream, etc. Providing cover was also touted as a huge benefit of these streamside management zones (SMZ’s). Researchers that had placed telemetry colors on turkeys and other game species began noticing a very high rate of predation in the SMZ’s. Predators rapidly adapted to hunting these narrow strips of cover. Even though the SMZ’s provided high quality cover, it also concentrated the critters, making them a target rich environment for predators.

This and other research along with experience has taught me to make cover areas as large as practical for the area. I avoid designing long, skinny cover blocks that serve to attract prey and predators. In addition I always try to add to the limiting factor — which seems to be quality forage in your neighborhood.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will Hogs Hurt a Deer Herd?

Question

Hi Grant,

Over the last years hogs have moved in on us. Will this hurt our deer?

Mark

Mark,

I enjoy hunting hogs like many other folks, as long as I have to travel a long, long, long way from my property to find them. Hogs are a challenging game species to hunt but are very detrimental to the goals of most deer management programs. They readily consume and destroy habitat and hard earned food plot acreage. They can also negatively impact turkey populations as they frequently destroy nests. They will certainly consume young fawns if they find them. If a hog stepped foot on The Proving Grounds and I knew about it, I’d be racing out the door to dispatch it. This is because once established, hogs are difficult, if not impossible, to completely eradicate. If hogs are already present I would work hard at removing them in any way possible. The most effective removal methods is trapping. I’m not aware of any instance where hogs have been eradicated by recreational hunting. To eradicate hogs requires a planned attack. No matter the methods chosen, hit them hard, fast, and early as they are quick to adapt and multiply rapidly.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Honeysuckle and Fruit Trees in Michigan

Grant,

I read an article that quoted you on your top ten deer forages in my NRA magazine and kept the article. You listed Japanese honeysuckle as #3. Where can I buy it at a reasonable price? Second, is Tatarian Honeysuckle or Halls Honeysuckle viable alternatives?

Third, lower on the list were Paw Paw & American Persimmon trees. Will they grow in Central Michigan in Zone 5? At one time Paw Paw Michigan had the tree but now all I find is the local high school unsuccessfully replanted a small grove in Paw Paw.

Richard

Richard,

I’m not familiar with the article you referenced. However, it’s often a year or more from the time of an interview till articles are published. I would not rate honeysuckle a top deer food among all deer foods! In locations with closed canopy forest, honeysuckle is often one of the few browse species available. It is also one of the few browse species available during late fall or winter. This may be because it was not preferred during the growing season, so it’s one of the few left to consume. Honeysuckle is a woody species. Therefore, it is not very digestible, and not loaded with nutrients. It does respond well to fertilizer, but so do other crops that are more productive and easier to establish. If honeysuckle is already in an area and deer are using it, it may make sense to fertilize and hunt it as an attractant. However, honeysuckle can be a very invasive species. I wouldn’t attempt to start it in areas where it doesn’t already exist.

Neither Paw Paw nor American Persimmon naturally occurs in any frequency far enough north to be prevalent in Central Michigan. Fruit trees can sometimes be established outside of their native range. However, extreme weather events will frequently limit their growth or kill them. It’s important to consider weather extremes (which will occur during the life of a tree) when selecting species to plant!

Growing Deer (and trees) together,

Grant

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Does Wheat Need N, P, and K?

Question
I was wondering, does wheat need N, P, and K or just P and K? I’m using a 7 acre field to feed deer. Great videos and great info on your website, keep up the good work.

Aaron

Aaron,

All forage plants are simply nutrient transfer agents. That is to say they transfer nutrients from the soil and air to critters that consume the plants. Of the three most prominent nutrients, nitrogen (N) is often the most deficient. N is critical in building protein in critters. Wheat is very sensitive to insufficient nitrogen and very responsive to nitrogen fertilization. There are gads of recommendations for any crop. However, given that food plot acreage is usually very limited, I use soil analysis labs that provide “max yield” recommendations. This simply means they will recommend lime and fertilizer levels necessary to achieve the maximum yield. By contrast, many labs recommend lime and fertilizer levels to provide maximum economic return. This recommendation is based on limiting the cost of fertilizer so the overall net profit is higher.

Each site is unique — so I always recommend a soil test. It’s the easiest and least expensive tool to establish and maintain great food plots! The results of soil tests informs the manager of the amount of specific nutrients available in the soil, and how much should be added to produce the desired level of crop (in my case, I want maximum forage quality and quantity). So, without the results of soil test, I (or anyone) can’t provide an accurate fertilizer recommendation. Remember that your goal is for the plants to capture nutrients from the soil, and the deer to capture the nutrients from the crop you’ve produced. Hopefully, deer are removing much of the nutrients you put on the field. Hence, it’s critical to have the soil analyzed annually and add the appropriate amount of lime and fertilizer. If you don’t follow these steps, it’s extremely likely your deer herd is not expressing its full potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Fertilizer Formula Should We Use for Clover?

Question
Thanks to the QDMA I just discovered your site. It is full of really good helpful info. We are just getting into food plots on our hunting property in Georgia. We planted radishes and clover together last year with fairly good results. The clover now looks about like it does on your video. We are hoping it comes on strong this spring. Should we fertilize to help it and if so what formula would you recommend?

Frank

Frank,

I’ve had clover stands last literally a decade! It seems the four key factors to maintaining healthy, nutritious stands of clover are:

  1. Keep the plot’s ph between 6.5 and 7.0.
  2. Keep the phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) at moderate-to-high levels.
  3. Keep competing weeds (broadleaf and grass) controlled by spraying and mowing.
  4. Use a grass-specific herbicide to control most grasses and mowing to control broadleaf weeds before they produce seed.

Clover is a legume, so there is no need to add nitrogen as established stands produce more than they need. However, clover uses a lot of P and K. Furthermore, deer and other critters consume the forage, defecate outside of the plot (deer defecate 12-24 times a day on average!), and hence P and K are constantly being removed from the plot. It must be replenished for the crop to remain healthy. The only way to accurately know the soil’s pH and how much P and K to add is by collecting a soil sample and having it analyzed. I use Water’s Lab as I’ve found their results are accurate and timely. I usually receive the results via email within 24 hours of when Water’s receives my samples. Sample collection and shipping instructions are on their site. Don’t forget to tell the lab what crop you will be planting/maintaining as lime/fertilizer recommendations vary significantly by crop!

Growing Deer together,

Gran

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What is the best method to remove coyotes?

I am having trouble with coyotes and I was wondering what would be the best route to take to resolve this problem?

David

David,

The most efficient legal method to remove coyotes is trapping, especially just prior to and during fawning season. Coyotes are difficult to catch, and seem to become conditioned to avoiding traps rapidly. I made the mistake of trying some ineffective trapping techniques for coyotes the first year at The Proving Grounds. I basically educated most of the local adult coyotes and made them trap shy. Since then, I’ve been involved in some research projects where a professional trapper was used on properties that hadn’t been trapped for years. The catch rate was very high as the local coyote population was naive about traps. Hence, using a professional trapper is the best method to reduce local coyote populations. Because coyotes are very mobile and disperse frequently, it is necessary to trap annually to keep the local coyote population in check. Several research projects confirm that surrounding coyote populations will fill the void created by removing coyotes from a specific property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Differences between Managing in Missouri and Vermont for Winter Cover

Question

Grant,

Thanks so much for the videos! Each week I wait impatiently for them. The video on winter cover was very informative. However, it didn’t seem to be geared for northern managers. Our deer herd here in Vermont and other northern states head to conifer forests to “yard up” during periods of deep snow depths and severe low temps to conserve energy. Could you elaborate on the differences between a state like Missouri and Vermont regarding how they should be managed for winter cover?

Thank you,

George (Florence, Vermont)

George,

You’re correct! Where the snow depths commonly get 2 feet or more deep, deer prefer dense stands of mature conifers. “Yarding” occurs in these areas where deep snows make foraging very difficult and deer find it more energy efficient to simply migrate to stands of dense conifers and survive off stored fat. This type of habitat prevents some of the snow from reaching the ground. Obviously, if the timber stand is dense enough to prevent snow from reaching the ground, very limited forage can grow under the canopy, so yarding areas provide almost no forage unless the conifers are white cedar (mature white cedar swamps are almost a thing of the past). Unfortunately, many of the traditional yarding areas have been converted to some other type of habitat in the northeast. For wind protection and allowing solar radiant heat during the day, native grass stands are better. For providing relief from deep snows, mature conifers are the preferred habitat type in the northeast and lake states.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do NWSG Stands Provide Sufficient Cover?

Question

Grant,

In GDTV 15 you show a lot of native warm season grass (NWSG) stands as good cover. Do you find this is the best cover during hunting season or do the deer stick more to the higher low vertical growth provided by the 6-8 year old sapling stand you showed or thicker stuff? It just seems that some NWSG stands are not as thick as a shrubby cover and don’t provide sufficient cover for deer to hide, especially during gun season.

David

David,

There are several species of NWSG. Little Blue Stem does provide low vertical growth while some of the varieties of switchgrass commonly grow to a height of more than 7 feet! I like a blend of low (0-2 feet), medium (2-4 feet) and high (4 or more feet) NWSG. Blends are easy to plant. However, I really prefer a patchwork of low, medium and high. I find that deer and other critters seem to prefer this type of cover compared to a homogeneous structure. In addition, I can find a very high vantage point and see down into this type of patchwork cover. This allows me to observe deer without being detected. Such stands are like a front row seat at the Super Bowl, except I like the entertainment a lot better!!

Based on my observations, sign, etc., deer prefer this type of cover (NWSG with varied height and density) more than any other type of cover. However, deer will use many forms of cover — whatever is best within their range.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will Hinge Cutting Create Bedding Areas and Increase Forage?

Question

Grant,

I’m interested in information about TSI. You may remember when you visited my property that aesthetics (from the “park effect” closed hardwood canopy) were important to me around the perimeter roads. There are several large interior blocks of mixed hardwoods (approx. 50 yrs old) that I intend to take a chainsaw to after we burn it in a week or two. My primary goal is to create bedding areas and secondary is increased forage. I’ll leave the best mast producing trees alone, but for the others, would you hinge cut or completely cut them down and leave them? If hinge cutting is done, would you cut them about shoulder height or down lower?

Thanks,

Jim

Jim,

Hinge-cutting is a fine management tool. There are several websites with detailed instructions about how to do a hinge-cut. I’ll let you find those. In the mean time, I’m not sure it is the best management tool to meet your specific objectives. Hinge cutting places the tops of trees at ground level. This provides some cover and food. The food source will be low in digestibility and nutrition (hardwood twigs don’t normally compare favorable to fertilized forage crops).

I recall your management objectives included allowing the local herd to express a high percentage of their potential and create a habitat that allows you to pattern/predict locations of deer activity. Hinge cutting can create some good growing season cover, but is somewhat limited in producing winter cover. Once the leaves fall, only the stems are left to provide cover. As the stems continue to grow, the canopy (cover) will be above the 0-4 foot level where deer live within a few years. In addition, the canopy will shade out most vegetation growing at the 0-4′ level. Large blocks of hinge-cut cover are not much different from the sapling cover discussed in GDTV 15. These characteristics can be somewhat offset by doing additional hinge-cuts every few years, but this is costly and doesn’t allow deer to establish long-term patterns.

Hardwoods sprouts are usually very low quality forage for a white-tailed deer. Unquestionably, you can produce a higher quantity of quality food by establishing food plots with high quality forage crops. If you could sell the hardwoods for enough to establish the same amount of acreage in native warm season grasses and some quality food plots, I believe you’d like the results much more! Hinge cutting is a good low budget technique. However, it might not be the best technique to meet your habitat management objectives.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will Trapping Disturb the Deer Herd?

Hi Grant,

Love your episodes, big fan of yours for years now!

Your trapping episode (GDTV 10) has me interested. Our property is in NE Ohio and we’ve been managing it for a little over a decade now. One problem I’m having is the negative effect to the deer herd my Dad is creating through his passion for trapping. He is not a deer hunter and he loves to trap. He begins trapping in November and keeps at it through February, mostly muskrats, beavers, otters, coyotes, and coons.

Side Note: After watching your trapping show, I thought I’d point out the low fur prices are not all fur wide. With the cold winter we are having, the prices of muskrat and beaver are way up. He is averaging $11-$14 a muskrat at 2 recent fur sales and he is so pumped up about that! He sends most his fur to Canada for their sales and the Chinese buyers are where most the demand is coming from.

Back to my original thought and question….How much will the deer be affected by all the nonhunting activity on the property during and after season? I’ve always had a hunch that they relate any and all human activity to danger. Is this not true? Do you worry about this on your property? Do you recommend minimizing disturbance and “traffic” on your property only during hunting season or throughout the whole year? He has created such a maze of trails throughout our 700 acres because he is 64 and really can only trap by using the ATV vehicle to get to his spots. Frustrating, but maybe I shouldn’t worry about his doings so much, what do you think?

Thanks for everything,

Andy

Andy,

Wow, your Dad got a great price for his furs! The best prices quoted in Region 11 (includes Ohio and Missouri) are $8 for coyotes and $30 for bobcats. Such prices do not encourage most trappers to target these predators.

If I were you, I’d buy your Dad a tank of gas and tell him “thanks for trapping.” Remember that the presence of predators make deer remain very alert! If deer can avoid coyotes, they will be dang good at avoiding two-legged predators. Coyotes and bobcats also can remove a high percentage of the fawn crop. In fact, in a presentation earlier this week at the annual Deer Study Group, it was reported that coyotes removed more than 60% of fawns from two different study sites in South Carolina.

Another consideration is that deer can and do learn what is and is not a threat. Deer in many state parks are not alarmed by humans. Deer certainly become conditioned to vehicles that deliver feed, while avoiding all other vehicles on the same property. If your Dad checks his trap line at the same time daily, the deer probably know the noise of his ATV, and the smells associated with his trapping gear. If he has a long pattern of passing through the property without threatening the deer herd, it’s likely the deer are not bothered by him — they are conditioned to his presence. I’d say your Dad’s trapping is a benefit to the herd, and to you!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Can I Plant in Sandy Food Plots?

Question

All of my food plots are basically sand/sandy loam with a little bit of black topsoil in spots. All are located on hillsides near my creek. I have tried Biologic and Whitetail Institute products with marginal success. I do follow soil sample recommendations annually. However, most companies are too eager just to sell their products. I need some advice on what products WILL produce good forage tonnage in the type of soils that I have AND keep the deer coming back for more. I live in southern Mississippi near Mobile, Alabama.

My sincerest thanks

Gene

Gene,

I certainly won’t promise that any cultivar will “produce good tonnage at your site and keep deer coming back for more.” I don’t even make that promise to myself on The Proving Grounds because there are way too many uncontrollable variables! Deciding what crop to plant should be based on gads of determinants, including soil type, typical soil moisture availability, the deer density/acreage available to plant ratio, amount of sun/shade the plot is exposed to, season of planting, etc.

If your ratio of plot size to deer density allows the use of crops deer strongly prefer, Eagle Seed forage soybeans are often a good choice. They are hardy, can produce literally tons of forage, and deer readily consume them (unless they’ve never seen a soybean plant before — deer always have a learning curve to new forage). However, there are places where forage soybeans won’t perform well. These can include plots that are very small in size, areas that are totally shaded, areas with high amounts of salt in the soil, etc.

So, to help yourself analyze what works best at your site, I’d suggest:

  1. Always use a utilization cage (see GDTV 14)
  2. Try different crops, and keep records!
  3. Take a soil test from each plot annually, and make sure you tell the soil lab what crops you plan to plant! Labs can’t provide specific fertilizer recommendations unless they know what crops are to be grown. The more specific information you provide the lab, the more precise their recommendations will be. Let me know what crops you decide to plant and how your crops do this year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Does Rye Compare to Winter Wheat?

Question
Hello Grant,

I just watched your show (GDTV 14). Can I assume that winter rye is the same as winter wheat in fulfilling what the deer like at certain times of the year? Does it have the same things that you mentioned wheat has for drawing deer?

Thanks,

David

David,

I assume you mean rye, and not rye grass. Both rye and rye grass grow in a wide range of conditions. Deer will consume both, especially if they are heavily fertilized! However, both will readily choke out other crops mixed with them, especially clovers during the spring. Rye grass readily produces seeds that last a long time and will germinate the following year (or years) which can cause unwanted competition for future crops planted in the same plot. Deer seem to prefer wheat as much or more than rye or rye grass. As there are fewer negative characteristics with wheat, I prefer to plant winter wheat as my small grain crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do You Use Steel Foot Hold Traps?

Grant,

I really enjoyed the trapping video (GDTV 10). I think this topic is one that many managers do not give enough thought to. My question is simple, do you use steel foot hold traps or are you live trapping even the larger predators? Also, a very popular trap, the “Lil Griz”, seems to be very popular as a dog proof trap. Have you used any of these with any luck?

Thanks,

Justin

Justin,

I agree with you that trapping is a tool most managers overlook. I do use foot hold traps (MB650’s) for coyotes and bobcats. I’ll try to film an episode about using those traps this fall. I also use the Lil Griz traps. I really like them!! They are very easy and effective to use. They are also very portable. Lil Griz will rarely catch any critters beside raccoons and opossums. Hence, they are best used in combination with other traps if coyotes, bobcats, and other predators are targeted.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How do I prevent the bucks from leaving our farm early in the morning?

Question
Grant,

My family owns a farm in southwestern Illinois, and from what we have noticed, our farm is more of a cut through for the deer. In the mornings, as we are driving to our stands, we are seeing huge bucks running in front of our cars from our property to the neighbors. The neighbors have a great deal more land and much more cover than us, but we have major food plots and one major bedding area. We have put out salt and mineral blocks, but this only seems to boost deer activity at the blocks in the middle of the night (as evidence from our trail cams). Any suggestions to prevent the bucks from leaving our farm early in the morning and giving us a better opportunity to be more successful?

Bobby

Bobby,

It may be beneficial to study some maps/satellite images and determine if any habitat components are missing from your property and are available on the neighboring properties. Deer seek the best sources of food, water, and cover within their home range. Best may mean sources of these habitat components where they don’t feel threatened. Deer readily become conditioned to avoid threats. If they perceive activity on your property as a threat, consider using alternate techniques to approach your stands, etc.

I’m a huge believer in not doing the same thing and expecting different results. Your question indicates you are analyzing the available data and preparing to change your strategy for next year. That’s a great plan.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating Cover

Question
Hi Grant,

I just found your site and I love what I see! I am 21 years old and from central Wisconsin and am passionate (some think addicted!) to deer hunting and management. My family has three properties, two that are 40 acres and one that is 39 acres. I am currently working on the 39 acre property. Being that I am in college, I don’t have a lot of money. Therefore, I don’t have a tractor or any heavy equipment. My family does have a Polaris 500 H.O. which is how I haul my roto-tiller in and out of the woods to create my food plots. I have planted very successful small (1/4 acre) food plots for 3 years now and am confident in that aspect.

I would like to create more bedding and cover on the 39 acre property to let the surrounding pressure from others work to my advantage. I plan to plant a couple hundred balsams this spring to create bedding and cover as well as hinge cut trees around oaks that are future acorn producers. I also will plant about ½ acre in food plots which will have corn, clover, chicory and turnips in them. There is a creek running through the south of the property and a pond on the north property line. The adjoining properties do not have much thermal cover and are not managed for whitetails. The crop fields rotate corn and soy beans. In the last few years, the deer population has dropped some. But I have pictures of, and have seen some, nice bucks (three of which were three year olds or better). I try to shoot 3.5 year old bucks. Knowing what I have to work with, I was wondering what your thoughts were on this small property I have? I primarily bow hunt but also gun hunt some.

My overall goal is to hold more deer, and obviously more bucks, during daylight hours. I have a chainsaw, atv, tiller, and shovel. Not to mention I have a can do attitude! I would love to get some feedback from you on what you think I should change or modify (I realize a usual west wind is not ideal but this is the property I have to work with).

The east (road) side has swampier bedding with consistent rub lines each year. The south (creek) side has low land with large white pines as well as grasses and moderately dense undergrowth. The west and central portion has younger red oak and maples. The north has high ground with older maples which I plan to thin to allow sunlight in.

Thanks,

Brad

Brad,

You have a neat project! It sounds as if the neighbors’ ag fields (corn and beans) will do a good job of providing quality nutrition. This creates a great opportunity for your property to provide cover habitat. Cover is where most of the action happens during daylight, so you have a great location! Remember that deer are very sensitive to disturbance in areas where they rest. Limiting disturbance in these areas will be critical to meeting your objectives. Combining cover with small plots where deer are comfortable eating during the day or just before they move to the large ag fields can be an excellent strategy. You are wise to consider the habitat on the neighboring property to insure your travel corridors, etc., fit into other portions of the local herd’s range. Also consider the predominate wind directions, thermals, etc., when designing travel corridors, plot locations, etc. It just as important to consider how the hunter can approach these habitat features without being detected as it is to know how deer will likely approach them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Do I Create Hidey Hole Food Plots?

Question
Grant,

On one of my small metro area properties I have 2 areas within the woods that I plan to food plot this year. Each area is about a 1/2 acre – 3/4 acre in size. Right now the canopy is open and I will not have to do much clearing, so I think it will be a great place to do some growing. Currently it is just grass that gets about knee to thigh high by mid-summer. For my first year what would be the best way to plant and manage these areas? Should I spray it and plant it early or should I spray it multiple times and do a late summer planting? I have a couple ideas but I am curious what you think. This particular property is only 20 acres and there are some very nice mature deer around. The problem is that I do not have the food source on this property to drive them in. During the summer if I put corn down in front of the camera I can almost guarantee that I will get a few pics of mature bucks. But once the corn is gone I am not seeing them on the property at all. They are close and I think that the plots may help me a lot next fall. Given the little information that I have given you here, what are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Tim

Tim,

Your observations indicate that food is a limiting resource in your area. Except in areas with production ag, quality food is usually in short supply and serves as a great attractant for deer. Combine quality food with limited human disturbance and you have a Hidey Hole (code name for my preferred place to hunt)!

To create a Hidey Hole in the conditions you described, use any method to remove the duff (dead grass, leaves, etc.). On larger scale projects in non urban areas, fire is a great tool. For some of my Hidey Hole plots, I use a rake and backpack leaf blower. Once the duff is removed and the remaining vegetation is growing, spray with Glyphosate to kill the competition. If the duff is removed, and the vegetation is putting on new growth, one application of herbicide is usually enough.

Then fertilize appropriately for the crop you wish to plant. Forage soybeans are extremely palatable and browse resistant. Soybeans germinate best when covered with soil, so they are a bit more difficult to plant in a Hidey Hole situation than smaller size that can be broadcast. However, they are a great early season attractant!! They will be killed by the first frost. If your goal is simply to attract deer later than the first frost to that location, mix some wheat with the soybeans and plant a month before archery season opens. Deer love young soybeans, and the wheat that will jump after the beans have been consumed or killed by the first frost.Hidey Hole Gobblers If your goal is to create an attraction plot to hunt during early, mid, and late season, mix in some brassicas as they will usually be more of an attractant later in the season. Clover is slow to produce much volume, so don’t count it as an attractant during the first season. However, it is a great attractant the following spring — if you like to turkey hunt! Turkey’s readily convert Hidey Holes in to strut zones.

Hidey Holes are a great tool that can be established with some labor, but not much cost in seed and equipment.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the “Magic Bean” for Producing Trophy Bucks?

Question
Grant,

What is the best food plot to plant to grow trophy whitetails? I hunt in Tennessee where there is heavy buck sign. I just need to know how to make them as big as they can be.

Sincerely,

Ty

Ty,

I don’t believe there is a magic “big buck bean” so to speak. I think there are some observations that may provide insight for your quest. Big bucks are found in the highest numbers where soybeans and corn are produced commercially — production ag. This is a combination of providing crops that are very digestible and high in protein and/or energy. In addition, commercial ag fields usually provide all the appropriately fertilized food the local herd can consume. Providing quality food on a year round basis is the real magic bean to allowing deer to express their full potential. Allowing deer to mature and express their full potential is the recipe for producing trophy bucks.

I call this the Iowa recipe. However, you can use the Iowa recipe almost anywhere — providing quality forage and grain throughout the year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Width Row Spacing Should I Use with a No-till Drill?

Question
Grant,

I just got to watch your video from the 22nd of February, great show. I’ve got a new 706NT Great Plains drill for my development work and food plots. You mentioned using a no-till drill in planting your corn. What width row spacing are you using? It looked like there were beans mixed with the corn in one picture. BTW, I met you this weekend at NWTF. Al Stone introduced us. Spook is my partner in a land marketing website.
Thanks,

Jimmy

Jimmy,

I really like Great Plains no-till drills! I block every other down spout in my drill’s seed box when planting corn. This results in 15″ rows. I don’t harvest the corn, so the 15″ rows work great! I have planted corn and soybeans together in the past, but have since determined a better yield for both can be achieved by planting and maintaining each crop separately. Tell Spook and Al I said hello!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Establishing Food Plots in Shallow Soil

Question
Grant,

I love your weekly emails and videos, keep up the good work. I have 10-12 inches of sandy loam soil (Farmington Loam) and then hard limestone bedrock. Can I plant corn or soybeans in this shallow soil? Also, which crops/plants can I plant in this soil? What happens to the unused fertilizer? Does it settle on top or absorb into the limestone bedrock?
Thanks,

Frank (Ontario)

Frank,

Is there much commercial ag in your neighborhood? If not, you will have to do like me and experiment to find a system of crop varieties and establishment techniques that work for your specific site. There aren’t any commercial corn or beans planted within the counties surrounding The Proving Grounds. However, with a little trial and error in techniques and crop varieties I’m very pleased with the forage and grain produced here. Even more important is the significant improvement in the quality of our deer herd and other wildlife species!!! This is in response to the overall management program, but certainly growing quality forage and grain is a huge part of that program.

Based on my experience at The Proving Grounds, and at other locations while helping clients develop a forage/grain program, I have confidence that you can have success at your location. Your crops may not be as productive compared to sites with deeper soils, but they can still provide great forage and grain for your herd.

The three macro elements, nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), or Potassium (K) all behave differently in soil. For example, N is extremely volatile in most forms. It can literally convert to a gas and disappear into the air, or leach with water through the soil profile. P is very stable in most soil types. It moves deeper in the soil’s profile at a very slow rate. In fact, in some soil types, surface applied P is not available to the roots of plants only a few inches below the soil surface. K is somewhere between N and P in stability.

Corn, soybeans, and other crops can have a root system that penetrates six feet deep or more! However, I doubt they do at my place. It sounds as if the existing vegetation at your place is also forced to have a shallow root system. Good food plot varieties are very adaptable to different conditions. For example, I select corn varieties based on their drought and stress tolerance more so than their potential yield. I discussed this to some extent in GDTV 13. I’m convinced that given appropriate amounts of soil moisture and soil nutrients, great forage and grain crops can be grown anywhere, including the gravel pile I lovingly call The Proving Grounds. Let me know how you progress on your “Proving Grounds.”

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Much Fertilizer do Forage Soybeans Require?

Question
Grant,

I love your site and the info you give out. I have one question for you right now — When you plant the Eagle Soybeans how do you fertilize them, since there is so much growth over regular ag soybeans?

Sincerely,

Barry

Barry,

Thanks for the kind words! First, I always want to base my fertilizer recommendations on the results of a current soil analysis. This tells me how much Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are available to the plants (and other micronutrients based on the type of soil analysis). For soybeans planted for deer, apply enough fertilizer to bring the amount of available P and K to 75 and 125 pounds per acre, respectively. It’s not necessary to add N to soybeans as they produce an excess — a great feature of soybeans and other legumes!

These levels are a bit higher than many universities recommend for production beans. But remember that those recommendations are based on the farmer making the highest return on his investment, not necessarily the highest quality forage and beans. I want deer to express their maximum potential in fawn production and antler growth – two indicators of overall health. In addition, food plot acreage is limited, so I need each acre to be as a productive as it can be. Given my mission, I want each plant to be as productive and healthy as possible. Therefore I base my fertilizer recommendations on maximizing quality, not economic return.

This process begins with insuring the best nutrients are available because plants are simply nutrient transfer agents. That is to say they transfer available nutrients from the soil and air to the consumers (deer). With this known, I use an organic fertilizer (Antler Dirt) that includes many more nutrients than simply N, P, and K. I also use a natural mineral supplement (Trophy Rock) to further ensure each deer has access to all the trace minerals they require.

It’s critical to reiterate that plants are only nutrient transfer agents — they can only transfer the nutrients that are in the soil and air to the deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Injured Deer

Question

Grant,

I feed corn to deer at my house. A buck came up that had a bad wound to the left front leg. Can I add something to the corn that will help him “beef” up and help him heal? He is a young deer but had a good 6 point rack so I would like him to pull through the cold weather.

Lynn

Lynn,

I’m not aware of any antibiotics, etc., that are licensed to administer to free-ranging deer. However, most wild critters have a tremendous ability to heal without any medications. Unless the wound is infected or a bone is broken, he will probably heal without complication. There is a good chance the left side of his rack will grow in a non-typical form this fall. Injuries on the front legs tend to result in non-typical rack growth on the same side, and injuries behind the shoulders usually result in non-typical antler growth on the opposite side. Let me know how this buck progresses!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the Real Benefit of Corn?

Question

Last Saturday I heard you on the “Hunt Life” radio show. You commented that because of the weather a lot of corn in the Midwest has not been harvested yet, and as a result the local herds will be in excellent condition this spring. I’ve heard corn doesn’t have any real protein value for a deer. How is it going to help, other than another food source?

Greg

Greg,

Corn is low in protein (Iowa corn averaged less than 8% protein this year) compared to soybean forage or soybean grain. However, corn is very high in energy! Energy is very important during the winter when the deer herd is trying to stay warm. With extra energy coming in by way of corn consumption, the deer’s body is under less stress.

Both energy and protein are extremely important components of a deer’s diet which allows them to express their potential! Deer can survive on a diet high in energy and low in protein, or low energy and high in protein, but they won’t express their full potential unless they have ample supplies of both! I prefer ample quantities of both beans and corn — that’s why the Midwest ag belt produces the majority of deer that express a lot of their potential (record book deer)!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Hunting Attractant Food Plots

Question
This question is more for my friend than me. My friend can hunt 1400 acres, 700 timber and 700 crop fields. Should he section the land off and only hunt one side, the timber only, or all around? What would you do? Last season he planted a wheat food plot on the top off a ridge and had a little success, a nice deer during Missouri firearms season. Is that the right food plot to have planted?

Thanks again,

Mitchell (Missouri)

Mitchell,

Because I don’t know this property, I can only provide some general guidelines. Rather than only hunting one side of the property, I would establish some sanctuaries so deer have areas throughout the property where they are very comfortable spending time during daylight hours. Outside of those sanctuaries, I prefer hunting ridge tops because the wind direction is usually much more constant compared to locations in a valley. So creating attraction plots on ridge top locations is a good strategy! Wheat is a fine attractant – if it’s fertilized appropriately. Remember, deer are very selective feeders. They feed on the best forage available in their home range in areas where they don’t feel threatened. Establishing the best forage won’t help hunters observe more deer if the amount of hunting pressure conditions deer to only use that plot after dark.

With a little planning and work, it sounds like your friend has access to an excellent property!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is Frost Seeding?

Question
Grant,

I have heard people talk about “Frost” seeding over last year’s food plots. Can you address what that really means and why it works or does not work?

Seed is so expensive and I do not want to waste it.

Thanks,

Brandon

Brandon,

Frost seeding describes a practice of spreading seed during the late winter or very early spring. The freeze-thaw cycles during late winter will serve to cover small seed with a shallow layer of soil.

Frost seeding is probably the least expensive method to plant small-sized seed like clover. It is not a good tool for larger seed as the freeze-thaw cycles typically won’t work them into the soil.

Frost seeding is much more successful if applied to bare ground or plots where the existing forage is very thin. Freeze-thaw cycles won’t work seed through thick duff or stands of existing forage.

Frost seeding is most effective if done without snow cover. If seeds are spread on snow, many seeds will be displaced when the snow melts and an uneven distribution will occur.

For the best results, use the same seeding rate when frost seeding as if you were using the broadcasting method during spring or fall planting seasons. Frost seeding is a good method for most red or white clover varieties. However, red clovers seem to perform a bit better than whites when using this establishment method.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Is a Stand of Tag Alders Good Bedding Cover?

Question
My family has 530 acres in central Wisconsin. We just bought it 3 years ago and have been managing it heavily. We have about 25 acres of food plots. Our land is fairly flat and doesn’t have any pine trees. It’s mainly thick tags, in the summer it is almost impossible to walk through it. We leave about 250 acres of the land untouched. Is this applicable bedding area all year long or what could we do to produce better bedding? We’ve been planting 1000 pine trees every spring.

Jake

Jake,

Tag alders can provide good summer cover. They do not provide as good of thermal cover as traditional winter deer yards, native warm season grasses, or relatively young pines. Cover is a huge component of quality habitat. Improving this portion of the habitat may really benefit your deer herd.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Should I Bulldoze Timber to Create a Soybean Food Plot?

Question
Grant,

I hunt in Oklahoma on about 1,000 acres of family land. One field has about 40 acres of clover. I’m thinking about taking a dozer and pushing some timber to make another 5 acre soybean food plot across the creek from the clover. It’s in a wooded area where deer hang out often. Would this work?

Bill

Bill,

Forage soybeans should grow fine at your place. Like all crops, soil nutrients, weed control, and soil moisture are key! The forage soybean varieties I use from Eagle Seeds are Roundup Ready, so weed control is easy. When removing the trees to create a new plot, instruct the dozer operator to leave as much of the dirt on site (literally remove the dirt from the root wads, etc.) as possible. This requires a bit more work, but will pay major dividends in the future. In addition, have the plot ripped after the trees are removed from the site. Ripping 20″ deep or so is critical because the weight of the equipment used in addition to the trees being felled and skidded will cause severe soil compaction. If that compaction is not fractured by deep ripping, most crops will not produce well for years because their roots will have minimal penetration. Deep ripping is a critical step to establishing good plots on sites that were recently logged.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Where do Bucks get Antler Genetics From?

Question

Grant,

Where do bucks get antler genetics from, mother or father?

Thanks,

Mitchell

Mitchell,

Researchers are starting to understand more and more about heritable traits of whitetails. But the level of research or knowledge about heritability related to antler size and shape is still mostly unknown. It has been reported that approximately 70% of antler characteristics are passed from the doe. If this is correct, it would go a long ways toward explaining why the culling of bucks has shown only a marginal increase in average antler size of free-ranging bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Supplemental Deer Feeding in the Ozarks

Question

Grant,

I live in the Midwest down by Branson, Missouri. I am not a landowner so therefore I cannot put out a food plot. I hunt by permission only on several large hardwood acreages. I want to nurture some whitetail herds on a property that I hunt. Is there a trace mineral supplement for antler growth and herd health that I can buy for my herd? I passively feed corn in the off season but they compete with turkey and squirrels and other birds for the corn. What do you recommend? Or, is there a protein supplement you might recommend?

Kurt (Missouri)

Kurt,

I grew up in the area and hunted on land owned by others, so I relate to your situation. I currently live near Branson and know the low quality nutritional forage available on tracts that are primarily hardwood forest.

I use Trophy Rock to provide deer on my property trace minerals. This is an important part of my overall herd management plan. It’s important to state that a good mineral program by itself can’t compensate for a lack of quality forage. If this was the case, we could solve world hunger by providing vitamin/mineral tablets.

There are other steps you can take that, along with minerals, will help improve the herd quality where you hunt. Short of writing an entire management plan, the following are brief guidelines that should be considered…

First, work toward balancing the herd’s density with the habitat’s capacity to produce quality forage. The simplest method to achieve this is to reduce the herd’s density by harvesting does. Some hunters, especially in areas dominated by hardwoods, don’t like this method because the resulting deer herd density can be so low that they rarely observe deer. The quality/quantity trade-off is one to consider thoroughly before implementing. This trade-off is much easier in areas with grain production as the deer density can be much higher while still providing access to ample quality food.

Next, insure bucks are being allowed to reach maturity. Remember that age is strongly correlated to antler size. No matter how much quality food a yearly buck eats, he’s still a yearling buck. He may be a great yearling, but he won’t produce his best antlers until he’s much more mature. Passing young bucks or “trigger finger management” is critical to meeting your objective of hunting bucks with larger antlers.

Just beginning a supplemental feeding program will not compensate for too many deer (remember that each deer consumes a ton or more annually) or lack of buck age structure in the local herd. To produce and harvest mature bucks on a sustained basis requires ample quality forage available to bucks that reach a mature age. This can be accomplished anywhere, but it certainly requires more resources in some areas compared to others.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Many Acres do I Need to Have a Deer Management Program?

Question

Dr. Woods,

I definitely enjoy GrowingDeer.tv and have learned some interesting things from it. My question is pretty basic.

If a person is interested in acquiring land to develop a private managed area approximately how many acres should be looked for to make it worthwhile and to have a positive influence on the local herd?

Keep up the great work as many benefit from your efforts.

Cordially,

Dennis

Dennis,

I don’t think there is a one size fits all answer to your question. I know of several examples where small tracts of land provide fabulous hunting/management opportunities because they adjoin properties with great characteristics. An example includes a buddy of mine that owns 140 acres in the middle of a 4,000 acre state park that doesn’t allow any buck hunting, conducts a highly controlled hunt to remove does, and there is production ag (soybeans and corn) in the neighborhood. So, his “neighbor” harvests a bunch of does, protects bucks, and the area is constantly patrolled by law enforcement officers — all for the price of only 140 acres. That 140 has produced multiple 180+ bucks. It is an extremely rare 140 acres. Before you ask, the last time I checked it wasn’t for sale…

The size of deer home ranges vary greatly based on the quality of habitat. Generally, deer living in good quality habitat have a smaller home range size than deer living in poor habitat. So, 1,000 acres in great habitat may allow a significant portion of bucks to reach maturity without being harvested by neighbors that don’t have the same deer management objectives. On the other hand, a tract of the same size in low quality habitat probably won’t yield the same return from your management efforts. When buying land, consider the neighborhood as carefully as the tract for sale.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Is There Any Benefit to Supplemental Feeding?

I often get asked about feeding hay to deer during the winter. I remember many years ago someone told me that it is harmful to deer to feed them hay during this time, due to their stomach’s being accustomed to mainly browse during the winter. Is this true and is there any benefit to feeding deer good quality 2nd/3rd crop alfalfa/grass mixture hay?

Jere

Jere,

See the response to Is feeding corn harmful to deer in winter? that was just posted in reference to feeding during the winter. This is an important subject, especially this winter as many deer herds are experiencing very severe winter conditions.

Deer don’t prefer most pasture grasses (fescue, orchard, brome, etc.), especially if they are mature enough to process for hay. Deer readily consume the leaves of alfalfa, which are usually a good source of protein and fiber. However, during the late winter, deer also need (and prefer) carbohydrates as an easy source of energy! I prefer to grow crops for deer rather than implement a supplemental feeding program. However, when I’m asked to prescribe a supplemental feeding program the ration always includes grains!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Is Feeding Corn Harmful to Deer in Winter?

Question

Grant,

I have recently read an article about how feeding deer corn in these late winter months is harmful to the deer. I’m guilty of feeding them behind my house here in the city. But with 20 inches of snow that has been on the ground going on three weeks, I didn’t think it would be too harmful to them. Why is feeding them corn so harmful? If there is an alternative feed what would it be?

Thanks,

Michael

Michael,

This has been an ongoing debate for years. I think this debate, like most debates, is due to a lack of information. Deer eat literally millions of pounds of corn annually!! Deer in the corn belt eat corn before it is harvested and search the harvested fields day after day for spilled grain until it’s plowed under or spring green up occurs and alternate food sources become available. In some states where feeding/baiting is legal, deer consume tons and tons of corn and have for decades. Corn is a fine source of carbohydrates for deer (any many other critters)!

With that said, I think it’s best to explain why some folks rightfully say it might be harmful to feed deer corn in some circumstances. Deer ingest food items, but microorganisms in their gut actually breakdown the food items and/or convert it into forms that can be absorbed from the digestive tract into the body. There are many different species of these microorganisms in a deer’s gut. Some breakdown certain types of nutrients better than others. The microorganisms get their food from the ingested items they help deer process. So, if deer haven’t had much to eat (like can occur during late winter) the microorganisms haven’t had much to eat either. In fact, many of the microorganism populations can decrease significantly.

This is the source of the potential problem, adding corn or any type of food deer haven’t been consuming. The populations of microorganisms in the deer’s gut necessary for digesting any food item can be too low. So low that the ingested food can’t be digested and absorbed by the deer. When this occurs, the deer can die from starvation with a full stomach.

So, if you started with small amounts of corn and worked up, there would most likely be no problem. However, problems or death do occur when deer ingest a lot of a food item that they haven’t been consuming. The problems are usually magnified if the deer is under additional stress such as being malnourished, etc. Feeding programs can do more damage than good if sudden large changes are made to a deer’s diet.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will Forage Soybeans Work in a Small Food Plot?

Question
Grant,

I heard you on The Outdoor Show this morning and I must say that it was the most informative I’ve heard… I live in Florida and have 20 acres with a 1 acre food plot. We planted iron clays last year and they did very good, but the deer ate them really fast. The forage soybeans sound great. Will they do well on a plot this size in Florida or would you recommend something else?

Thanks,

James

James,

If Iron Clay peas grew in your plot, forage soybeans should grow well also. However, if the peas were well fertilized and the local herd still destroyed the crop, it sounds as if you need to either expand the size of your plot, reduce the number of deer consuming forage from the plot, or a combination of both. The forage soybeans I referenced this morning (www.EagleSeed.com) during the radio interview have the best ability to regrow after being browsed of any pea or bean varieties I’ve monitored. I’ve even mowed a stand of this cultivar to prepare for planting winter wheat and a week later the bean stalks had grown leaves again!

However, these plants had an established root system. If your peas were consumed as soon as they germinated, then the forage soybeans probably won’t make it to maturity unless more acres are planted. One additional step you can use in areas with a high deer density relative to available quality forage is to plant more seeds per acre. For example, I commonly plant 100+ pounds of beans per acre in areas with such characteristics. This provides more young plants per acre. Many of these young plants will be removed by browsing, leaving an appropriate number to mature. This technique requires site-specific trial and error to learn how many pounds per acre to plant to achieve your objective.

Forage soybeans are a great food plot crop! However, they are not a magic bean and can be over browsed in some situations.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Handling a Trapped Animal

Grant,

I just watched the trapping video and have a couple of questions:

  1. How do you handle catching a skunk in your trap?
  2. What is the contact information for the place that tans your hides?
  3. How do you kill the trapped animals?

I had a problem with squirrels messing up my garden a few years ago. I trapped several and hauled them off a few miles, but got lazy and shot one in my trap with a .22 revolver. It did the trick, but was rather messy (and seemed a little cruel) as it ran around for a minute in the cage.

I was at a banquet at FBC Branson a few years ago where you were the speaker. I appreciated your comments about evolution and other issues. No longer live in the area, but spend as much time as possible chasing deer, ducks and turkey’s in south Arkansas (not as much time as I used to, but with an 8 year old little girl I have other priorities).

I enjoyed the site, Dave and MK Janke told me about it.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon,

Usually skunks are fairly calm critters. Usually if a person moves slow and quietly, they can approach skunks in a trap without getting a long-lasting cover scent. In fact, it is common for pest control agents to catch skunks in urban areas in live traps. They typically place a cover over the trap and then transport the skunk to a rural setting and then dispatch — all without getting sprayed — Usually.

I’ve found the best way to dispatch a skunk is to shoot it with a solid .22 (no hollow points!) in the lungs. The skunk passes quickly and shows no sign of pain. When I use the same shot placement with a .22 hollow point the skunk sprays! There is apparently a direct switch from the brain to a skunk’s scent glands that is programmed to empty all content if the brain becomes disengaged. I don’t recommend aiming at the head. Only use this method if you wish to apply very long lasting cover scent to the clothes you are wearing!!

I have been using a local taxidermist to skin, flesh, and dry the pelts. I then ship the pelts to Moyle Mink and Tannery and have been very pleased with the quality of their work.

I simply use a .22 rifle or pistol (pending on how far I am from the trap) to dispatch critters. I prefer a head shot for all critters except skunks. I want the critter to pass instantly and have minimal damage to the pelt. I prefer a .22 at times as I can stay back 30-50 yards. This strategy results in the critter being calmer and I can pick the shot location easier.

If your back in the Branson area, GrowingDeer.tv is hosting a Meet the Pros banquet Friday, February 26th at FBC Branson. Five of the top anglers on the FLW tour will be sharing strategies for fishing Tablerock Lake as a FLW tourney begins here the following week. The format will be very similar to the event you attended. I hope to see you there!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the best bait for trapping raccoons and other predators?

Grant,

I enjoy looking at your site and the info that I learn. I was very interested in GDTV 10. Predators are a HUGE problem that I’m having on our family farm. What do you use to bait the traps with (the box traps and foot traps)? What do you do to trap the coyotes and bobcats? Any info you could give is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

I use inexpensive dog food when my target is raccoons, opossums, and skunks. It seems the inexpensive dog food has a stronger odor compared to the more costly brands. I want the “bait” to have enough odor to attract predators. However, of greater importance is placing the trap where the predator will be traveling! This includes scouting for sign, learning predator travel corridors, etc. Trapping literally makes me a better deer hunter. Unfortunately, Missouri’s coyote and bobcat season closed January 31st, so I can’t demonstrate my larger predator trapping techniques. I will show my coyote and bobcat trapping techniques next fall on GrowingDeer.tv.

When my target is coyotes, I prefer rancid meat. I usually place trimmings from a deer I processed in a bucket and hang it in an old barn. Once vultures begin circling the barn, I know it is ready! Bobcats on the other hand prefer very fresh meat. Trapping season just ended and I’m already excited about trapping next year (so are the deer and turkey at my place!).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Clover Varieties

Question
Clovers are evolving and stands and yields are increasing, but it is very hard to get any of the latest and greatest clovers. Ag stores will only sell what they have and lots of times that is a low yield, low quality clover. Who sells WILL white clover? It will out produce Advantage, Durana, Alice, Patriot in yield and stand (in some testing), but good luck getting it. There are test clovers at least two or three years old that easily out produce the clovers listed but I can’t get access to them. I can get Durana — but it is priced about twice what it should be. What are a couple of cold tolerant white clovers? I have noticed some last much better or later into the winter and some deer will dig through snow to get to them. I have heard good things regarding Alice later into the winter. Increased stand reduces maintenance and herbicide costs, higher yields do the same and allow a little less area needed. This frees up land use for other things such a water holes, natural browse (forbs) or crops/hay. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Bill

Bill,

Yes, stores have difficulty stocking all the varieties of clovers. Some stores are more oriented toward forage, and will offer a greater variety than others. However, the tougher hurdle to cross is finding the variety or blend that matches your mission. No single variety of clover is going to:

1. Produce well in warm and cold season

2. Be palatable all year

3. Produce well on all sites

Crop varieties are selected for different traits, just like races of dogs. Yes, there will be some overlap of these traits between varieties, but in general, different varieties will perform better at different times of year, on different soil types, etc. There simply is no one variety that is best in all the categories you mentioned. To complicate this more, a single variety often performs differently from location to location, not to mention from drought to moist conditions. However, by selecting several varieties that grow well together, you can create a blend that meets most of your needs. I always prefer blends to a single variety when my mission is to provide quality deer forage throughout the year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Why do Deer Eat Dead Leaves?

Question

Grant:

Thanks for your kinds words about our troops now serving on foreign soils (Grant’s February 8th, 2010 blog entry). I can’t tell you how much it means to me to be able to link onto your site and the QDMA. Along with church service, your site helps me keep my head on straight. Yes, I may not be in the states but once a deer geek always a deer geek!

Here’s a question no biologist has ever fully answered for me. Why in the world do deer eat dead leaves? With no nutritional value can we assume it’s just something to fill the rumen?

Love ya buddy,

CJ

Blessings from Afghanistan

Gen 1:28

CJ,

I remember a study on fallen leaves from wild grapes that showed they retained traces of certain minerals. Deer have the ability to identify food sources that have traces of vitamins and minerals that they need (I assume by smell). I suspect they consume various fallen leaves to obtain needed vitamins and minerals if they are not readily available from a better source. Remember — this is simply an assumption. In areas of poor habitat, fallen leaves may be one of the only food items. Be safe in Afghanistan! I’m sure the deer at home are glad you’re away!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Is There an Itch Associated with Antler Shedding?

Question

Several of my peers as well as myself have noticed Young Bucks (in person as well as trail cameras) rubbing their ears and forehead like crazy this time of the year. I speculate the area around the buttons and small antlers may “itch” like when a scab is forming. Does this have any scientific backing? Can these areas itch before the antlers or buttons shed?

Michael

Michael,

Great observation! I agree with your theory. However, I don’t know of any scientists that have researched irritation or “itch” associated with the antler shedding process. One of the great features of my job as a deer biologist is that I’ll never run out of fun research projects!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Limiting Factors and Learning Curves

Question

Dr. Grant,

Great information!

I live in a very heavy agricultural area. Should I focus my farm habitat efforts on creating interior areas that are thick or should I focus on providing standing crops (corn & soybeans) on the interior of my property? Also, why does it seem that some deer have to develop a “taste” for foods like brassicas?

Jason (Ohio)

Jason,

You’re on the right track! It’s a great technique to identify “the low hole in the bucket.” By that, I mean to identify if food, cover, or water are in limited supply in the area. In areas that are predominately agricultural, cover and food are usually in short supply during the winter as most crops are harvested. If you can’t dedicate some land for permanent cover, standing corn will work for cover during the late season. Standing soybeans are a great food source for deer during the late season. By providing the “limiting factor” you help the herd and create some outstanding hunting opportunities!

As for deer needing to develop a taste for brassicas, most deer don’t recognize plants they haven’t seen before as food. For example, there are no soybeans grown near my place. The first two years I grew soybeans I don’t think deer consumed a single leaf. About year three I started noticing some leaves missing. Now, deer readily consume soybean forage and pods at my place. The same learning curve applies to any new forage planted in an area. Now if I could just get my daughters to eat spinach!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do Raccoons Hurt Deer?

Question

Grant,

In this video (GDTV 10) are you saying raccoons are bad for deer?

Mark

Mark,

Raccoons consume many of the same food items as deer such as persimmons, blackberries, corn, etc. They often attempt to consume them at the same time as deer. I’ve reviewed 100’s of trail camera images of raccoons at a food source challenging deer. This by itself isn’t a major problem, but when raccoon population densities get high, it’s a constant form of stress for deer. I like raccoons, but I like deer more, so I opt to favor deer and attempt to reduce raccoon populations.

I really like to turkey hunt, and many research projects have reported raccoons as being the most frequent predator of turkey nests. This alone is enough reason for me to trap raccoons and share their pelts with family and friends.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How do I See More Mature Bucks?

Question

I have got to say your book, “Deer Management 101″, is the best book about deer management I have read so far. My father and I have 70 acres in Arkansas. In your book (page 70 & 71) you talk about letting deer mature. On our land we have trail pictures of mature bucks, but we mainly see immature bucks. We hunt hard from day break till the sun is down and pass on the immature bucks. We feed the deer on our land but we just can’t seem to take the mature bucks. Do you know any ways of getting the population up and helping us see more mature bucks? Thanks and thank you for signing the book that John Luther got me. If he sent you the picture, that is him and me holding the book in the Catfish Hole.

Wesley

Wesley,

Thanks for the kind comments about Deer Management 101: Manage Your Way to Better Hunting! Sounds like your land is producing some great bucks! It’s often easier to produce mature bucks than it is to harvest them. By the time a buck reaches 4+ years of age, he’s obviously gained much skill at avoiding predators (2 and 4 legged). On the other end of the spectrum, yearling bucks seem to look for trouble. They move frequently in open areas and during daylight hours. This is why I often don’t select stand sites where I’ll see the most deer. If the bulk of the herd is traveling there, mature bucks are probably traveling at a different place or time. This fall, you might try selecting different stand sites doing your best to minimize disturbance. Consider placing more emphasis on figuring out when and where mature bucks are moving, and less time hunting. Trail cameras can be a great tool for patterning mature bucks with minimal disturbance. By changing your tactics, you may not see as many deer, but you’ll probably have a better chance of seeing a mature buck.

Keep me posted as you develop a different hunting strategy. It sounds like it’s time you apply Woods rule #2 about deer hunting and management — don’t do the same thing and expect different results!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What is the Correlation between Fescue and Deer?

Another question. What’s your view on fescue grass? What is the correlation between fescue and deer? Do they eat it, like it, love it? I have heard many different views on this. All I know is there are a ton of fescue farmers around this part of the country. That seems to be the only thing most farmers want to plant, I guess due to its ease of getting stands and for their cattle’s diet. However, it’s difficult to plant anything close to it because of its competitive nature to take over.

Tom

Tom,

Fescue = NEGATIVE for almost all wildlife! Fescue is not palatable or nutritious for most forms of wildlife, including deer. When deer are observed in fescue fields, they are most likely picking clover or other forages in the fescue.

Yes, fescue is very invasive. However, it can be controlled by spraying with Glyphosate at least twice at the appropriate times of year, etc. There are other good reasons to kill fescue and replace with either nutritious crops or cover like native warm season grasses. Fescue is very difficult for quail or turkey poults to move through. If the objective on your property is improving the habitat for wildlife, few activities will yield more benefit than converting fescue to better forage or cover!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Improve Rocky Soil

Question
I was watching your videos, and heard you say at The Proving Grounds you no-till drill your seed in the ground because your ground is much too rocky. The place we are trying to grow deer is in Oregon County, and as you can imagine, the ground is basically the same there — rocky. Do you still do soil tests and fertilize / lime? If so, do you broadcast on top of the ground or do you manage to get it into the seed bed?

Tom

Tom,

Thanks for watching The Proving Grounds! Yes, I’m a huge believer in having soil in food plots tested annually. Crops produce much better when they have access to all necessary nutrients. The best method to produce quality forage is to determine what nutrients are lacking and then add the nutrients that are low or not available. I wish to grow nutritious crops, and therefore healthy deer at the Proving Grounds. Knowing that the soil was extremely poor, I started using humified compost from Micro Leverage  (now Antler Dirt) several years ago. It not only provides all the nutrients necessary for producing nutritious crops, but can also hold about four times it weight in moisture. This is critical for my gravely soils that don’t hold water!

Literally, my soil is too rocky to use a disk. Therefore, I have the compost spread on the plots. I use a no-till drill to attempt to get good seed to “soil” contact. I find that some folks think the compost is applied so thick that it acts like a layer of soil. That’s not correct. In fact, at two tons per acre compost is applied at less than 1/8″ thick. This system produces excellent results on poor, rocky soil. In fact, after touring The Proving Grounds some of the plots on public lands in the Ozarks are now managed the same way! Those plots looked like Iowa last year!!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What food plot seed blend do you recommend for spring and summer months?

Question
What is a good seed blend for holding deer through the spring and summer months?

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! When picking a crop to attract deer to a specific location, remember the bear hunting with your buddy tip! If a bear charges, you don’t have to be faster than the bear, just faster than your buddy!! Similarly, you don’t have to plant the best crop, you simply need to have the most palatable crop in your neighborhood. Some warm season options include forage soybeans. Soybeans are very palatable, once deer learn what they are (don’t laugh, deer at The Proving Grounds had never seen soybeans and it took a couple of years for them to begin consuming them). However, once deer learn to consume soybeans, they can consume large quantities of them. If the plot sizes are small relative to the number of deer using them, a better option might be a mix of clover and chicory. These crops are a bit more browse tolerant and are better suited for smaller plots. However they do require some maintenance to persist several years. Buckwheat is an annual warm season forage that is often over looked as an attractant crop for deer. I often use it when I’m establishing a food plot simply for attracting deer for viewing during the warm season. It usually only lives for 75 +/- days, but is very easy to establish. Deer usually readily consume its forage. There are lots of forage options. Late winter is a perfect time to research which one fits your specific mission.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Creating Specific Bedding Areas for Whitetails

Is it possible to control and manipulate your bucks and does by making specific beds for each as some would have us to believe? if so what are your recommendations? We own 294 acres in West Virginia that we are trying to manage. Thank you, and may the Good Lord continue to Bless you and your family and endeavors.

Jim

Jim,

Thank you for your kind thoughts and prayers.

I once heard a gentleman talk about creating precisely located bedding sites a few years ago. I admit I’ve never tried to establish such sites. I don’t have, and I don’t think any of my fellow researchers have, any data from placing GPS and radio telemetry collars on deer that indicate deer prefer to bed in the exact same place for several days in a row. That’s not to say it’s impossible, but based on my observations this would be most unlikely.

One problem with deer bedding in the same specific location would be the high level of vulnerability to predation. Any prey critter would experience this by bedding in the exact same place frequently. Smaller critters do use the same specific location, but they use some type of protection such as a den. Turkeys nest in the same place for 26-28 days but experience 60-80% predation as reported by multiple studies. Turkey populations can remain stable at that level of predation because individual hens can recruit many poults (one surviving nest compensates for several nests that predators destroy). However, deer average a much lower recruitment rate. 60-80% predation on deer would rapidly reduce the herd’s density. I always try to create bedding areas that are several acres in size. I’d rather put the odds in my favor, not a four-legged predator’s favor.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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What Caliber Should I Use with Children?

Question
The video of you and your daughter deer hunting has inspired me to get my kids more involved. Daughter (9) and son (11) don’t find much interest in sitting empty handed with dad, nor do they find watching dad at the range very much fun. However, both claim if they can actually hunt they would spend more time in the stand with dad. We do not own a youth caliber rifle, but we will soon. Wondering what grain/type ammo you were using with the .223 , what yardage limitation you put on a youth with a .223 and lastly, if your older daughter also hunts, what caliber does she use? Any other thoughts on youth calibers/ammo for deer hunting? They are signed up for hunter safety classes and next season can’t come soon enough, for either of us.

Thanks,

Phil

Phil,

That’s about as nice a compliment as I could receive. I hope you and your children enjoy many hours together in the field. I leave my weapon at home when I take my children target shooting, plinking, or hunting. There will come a time when we take turns. But for now, it’s all about ensuring their safety and enjoyment. Their smiles, hugs, and desire to “go with Dad again” are worth more to me than any amount of antlers.

Both Raleigh (11) and Rae (8) use a youth (short stock) model .223 for deer hunting. I prefer a single shot design for youth so I can watch the hammer and know 100% of the time the exact status of the weapon. Safety is absolutely my primary mission!! Beyond that, I wish to minimize recoil as much as possible and still have them shoot an effective load that humanely kills. There are gads of loads for the .223 caliber. However, most are designed for varmints. These cartridges use a light weight bullet (55 grains or less) and are designed for maximum expansion on impact. This design usually won’t yield an exit wound (so varmint fur receives minimal damage). Varmints (coyotes, etc.,) are much smaller and have a thinner skin than whitetails. Don’t use varmint loads for whitetails as the bullet probably won’t penetrate very far into the animal, and without an exit wound, the blood trail will be minimal. For harvesting whitetails with a .223, I prefer a load like Winchester’s 64 gr. Super-X® Power-Point®. The bullet in this cartridge is designed to expand, but stay intact and not fragment. This usually results in an exit wound and ample blood trail to aid in recovery. Both Raleigh (GDTV 3) and Rae (GDTV 6) harvested deer at 100+ yards using this gun/ammo combo. Both where shot in the lungs/heart. I certainly don’t recommend trying a shoulder shot with the .223.

I look forward to hearing about future hunts with your children!

Growing Deer (and children) together,

Grant

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When and Where do Bucks Shed Antlers?

Question

Hi Grant,

I’ve heard that peak antler loss comes between February 15 & March 15. And further, that Whitetail sheds are most often found on sunny South-facing slopes with tall grasses rather than in the hardwood. Have you observed any patterns for antler loss or do you have any shed hunting tips as we approach shed season?

Thanks! Really enjoy your site!

Kyle

Kyle,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Antlers are shed as a response to chemical changes within a buck’s body. These changes are generally stimulated by changes in the amount of time the sun shines daily. However, within this window, several factors such as available nutrition, general health, and dominance ranking can determine when an individual buck sheds his antlers. For example, deer researchers often mention observing two dominate bucks in captivity fighting during this time of year. The loser will shed his antlers soon (sometimes the next day). It seems hard to imagine that antlers will simply fall off one day due to a change in dominance status (along with hormone levels) but these examples seem to indicate that’s the case. Never underestimate the effects of hormones on all critters!

So yes, antlers for most bucks tend to be shed during the late winter months. However, some bucks will shed earlier due to other factors. Generally speaking, the healthier the herd, the longer bucks will hold their antlers! I like seeing some bucks with antler during Missouri’s turkey season! Bucks healthy enough to hold antlers that late into the winter are an excellent indicator of a healthy deer herd. It also indicates that the habitat is likely good for turkeys also!

Bucks tend to shed their antlers where they spend the most time. Hence, I like to search for sheds at or near food sources and bedding areas. South slopes are often the warmest areas for deer to bed. South slopes with bedding cover do tend to be target rich environments when searching for sheds.

When you start finding sheds, please send some pictures to info@growingdeer.tv.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do Bucks Bed in Old Buildings?

Question

I was watching the hunt with your father using that old cow barn for cover (GDTV 8). I have found — more than once — bucks living in old buildings just like that. This past December I shot a buck while he was bedded down in an old house. I found his bed when scouting trails in the area. I’d followed a trail up to the house where it ended in a place so tracked-up the leaves and 22″ of snow where down to bare ground. The buck was going in and out of the house through the window. So when scouting for places to set-up for a hunt, if there are old buildings around, take a close look to make sure the deer are not using it for their home!

Walt

Walt,

I’ve heard about hunters locating deer sign in abandoned structures before — but never of a hunter shooting a buck while he was bedded in such a place! I’m going to think twice before napping in an abandoned house next time!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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The Staggered Fletch Pattern

Question
I noticed in your last video that your arrows have staggered fletching!?!? I have seen this only one other time before, but didn’t ask about it. What is its purpose and how does it affect your arrow flight?

Tim

Tim,

You are very observant! The staggered fletch pattern was designed to provide a bit more accuracy at longer distances. I frequently practice shooting at 60 yards and can’t tell any difference between my group size when shooting staggered fletch compared to regular fletch. My practice partners claim the staggered fletch is a bit louder while in flight. I have noticed the staggered fletch drifts more when shot in a crosswind than arrows with normal fletch — about 5″ more at 60 yards with my setup. I will return to using a normal fletch pattern next year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Shed Antlers with Skull Bone Attached

Question

Through the years, including this year, I have found shed antlers that obviously have part of the skull attached to them. Why would deer be so aggressive about removing their antlers and are these deer likely to survive?

Don

Don,

The normal antler shedding process doesn’t include bucks losing part of their skull. Bone loss with antlers usually is a symptom of a brain abscess. Brain abscesses are usually caused by an injury to the skull cap that allows bacteria to enter the brain cavity. These bacteria are very acidic and cause erosion of the skull bones. These weaker skull bones fracture and can remain attached to an antler. The loss of skull bones is never good!! However, it’s rarely known what happens to free-ranging bucks with this condition. There is some research that indicates such bucks probably don’t act normally and are much more susceptible to predation by two or four legged predators. However, it’s obviously a minor source of mortality as many herds maintain a large percentage of bucks into maturity if they are not harvested by hunters as immature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Will Spikes Always be Inferior?

Question

Grant,

I see spikes in my hunting areas from time to time. These deer are at least one and a half years old. They may never be a dominant deer so should I take them out or see if potential comes with age?

Waco

Waco,

It is very difficult to predict a buck’s future antler growth based on his first set of antlers! A buck’s first set of antlers is greatly influenced by several factors including: his birth date, condition of his mother while he was a fetus, the quality and quantity of food while he was growing his first set of antlers, etc. In addition, yearling bucks (1 and 1/2 years old) rarely express much of their total antler growth potential. One thing is for sure, dead deer don’t grow. If your goal is to hunt mature bucks, don’t harvest immature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How to Improve Small Properties

Question

Hey Grant,

I got your info from my friend, Glenn Chappelear. My wife & I run a Christian Retreat center just outside Bryson City, NC in the Great Smoky Mountains. Ten years ago we purchased what was left of an old cattle farm (38 acres). Our vision is to build a 100 bed lodge on the property to minister the love & grace of Jesus to others. About 20 acres is steep pasture land & the rest in woodland. There is a 39 acre woodland tract adjoining us that we are leasing. I have a shot with my trail camera with eight deer (does & yearlings) in it. This excites me because our county average is 0.12 deer per square mile (85% of our county is public land, either national forest or national park).

That’s the background, now my question: What can I do on a very limited budget, with very little equipment (I have a 350 dozer & a 230 2wd MF tractor), on steep ground, to increase the size & health of the heard in this area?

By the way, I loved the video of your daughters! I have three (ages four, six, and eight) that I am introducing to hunting. My sons (ages two years, and four months) have to wait a little.

Thank you for your time! Blessings!!!

Trusting JESUS,

Bill

Prov.3:5-6

http://www.icthusministries.com

Bill,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Sounds like a great location to introduce your children to creation!! Most deer’s home range will extend beyond the boundaries of smaller tracts, so the goal is to keep them on your tract during daylight hours as much as possible. You can accomplish this by identifying which of a deer’s daily needs, food, cover, and water, is in limited supply in your neighborhood. For example, if you are surrounded by cover, provide a quality food source centrally located within your property. By identifying if food, water, or cover is in limited supply in your neighborhood and providing that resource, your tract will become the hub for deer whose home range includes your property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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How Many Cameras Should be Used in my Camera Survey?

Hey Grant,

I want to do a camera survey on my property to find out what our buck to doe ratio is and take a buck inventory. Our lease is 2,100 acres, how many cameras will I need and what is the best time of the year to do a survey? I heard you mention the Reconyx brand cameras in your video, I am going to buy some cameras for this survey would you recommend Reconyx over other brands of cameras? If yes, why?

Thanks,

Brett (Albany, GA)

Brett,

A camera survey is a great tool for estimating the number of bucks in a herd, the age structure of the population, and the antler size of individual bucks. I typically use one camera per 100 acres — more on properties with dense cover, less on those with more open habitat (area with lots of agriculture, etc.). Practically speaking, the higher the camera density, the more accurate the survey results. The goal of a survey is to get an image of as many individuals from the herd as possible. This is accomplished by placing cameras aimed toward something deer want that has limited distribution throughout the property to be surveyed. For instance, during the time when the bucks’ antlers are uniquelyReconyx trail camera identifiable the food resources tend to be the lowest (August and January).  Corn and/or minerals work great during August and corn during January. I prefer the pre-hunting season data (enjoy knowing how many mature bucks are on The Proving Grounds before the season opens each year) so I conduct surveys at my place and for clients during August.

I really like the Reconyx trail cameras. They have a very fast trigger speed, great image quality, and fabulous battery life. I really like how long they last. I have two Reconyx cameras that I’ve used constantly for 5+ years! I think that’s a great value!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Advantages and Disadvantages of Filming Hunts

Question
Hi Grant,

Fantastic Videos! They are a great balance of being entertaining but also very informative.

My question is: What are the pros and cons of being videotaped while you are hunting?

Randy

Randy,

Thanks for the kind words!! There are some advantages of recording hunts, such as having another person to spot game, having help to recover harvested game, and company while hunting. A huge advantage is being able to replay the shot. This was really evident in Rob’s Hunt (GDTV 1). Reviewing the shot in the tree gave Rob and I great confidence to take up the trail immediately!

However, there are some disadvantages also. It requires much gear to record the sights and sounds of a hunt. I’m not aware of any method to limit the scent of all that gear (batteries, camera, mics, tripods, etc.). Having another person means more movement and potential noise. Last, but not least, I have to pack twice as many Snickers Bars as I feel bad eating in front of the cameraman!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Doe Harvest Criteria

Question

Grant,

Are you selective on your doe harvest? An accomplished hunter was preaching to take out the alpha and beta does from a group because they are typically the most seasoned and will pick off hunters more readily. A show I recently watched encouraged the taking of yearling does and leaving the mature, experienced does that were proven producers and more likely to have twins. What’s your opinion?

Jim (Oklahoma)


Jim,

I agree that older does typically are more likely to detect the presence of a predator (two or four legged). This is one reason mature does usually have a higher success rate at raising fawns compared to younger does. However, my primary objective for harvesting does is to balance the herd’s density with the habitat’s capacity to produce quality forage throughout the year. Hence, my doe harvest criteria is based on meeting a quota to improve or maintain the local herd and habitat’s quality. This is much more important to the herd’s overall health than attempting to select a specific age class of does to harvest and not reaching the harvest quota.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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Do Deer Migrate during Tough Seasons?

Question

Grant,

During times of extreme winter conditions will deer with limited food resources move from their core areas in search of food or hunker down and tough it out where they are?

Robin (Missouri)

Robin,

I was taught that Queen Isabella funded Columbus’ voyage to determine if the world was round. She did this because she believed the world was flat and Hades started at the horizon. Columbus was willing to gamble his life that the world is round and no harm would happen when he reached the horizon. Most deer tend to be like Queen Isabella. They are very hesitant to leave their home range for any reason. The exception is primarily yearling bucks. Most of us probably remember being in the equivalent life stage as a yearling buck – no fear, without mom for first time, and yearlwanting to roam. However, the other sex/age classes of a deer herd seem to fear the unknown. Fellow biologist Dr. Harry Jacobson and his grad students did a study years ago on this subject.

Briefly, these researchers placed long-life radio collars on deer in a portion of National Forest in Mississippi where browse for deer was very scarce. They monitored the collared deer for a year to establish their maximum home range boundaries. During year 2, they established some food plots just outside these boundaries. No collared deer made one visit to those lush plots even though they were living where little food was available. The third year new plots were created on the edge of the collared deer’s known home range and they rapidly found and utilized the plots!

Today the high was 14° at The Proving Grounds (where I live). I observed several deer in my soybean and wheat plots this morning while checking traps. Later, I saw some deer about three miles away trying to find a morsel of food in an overgrazed cow pasture. If those deer believed like Columbus, they’d have probably found the standing beans at The Proving Grounds.  However, they were more like Queen Isabella — standing on the shore thinking death awaited them at the horizon. Many studies have confirmed that most deer make the Queen Isabella choice, but there are a few that share Columbus’ willingness to adventure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

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