Ask Grant

Feel free to ask Grant a specific question about deer hunting and growing deer.

Magic Bean?

Question
Grant,

I live in central Pennsylvania on a 200 acre farm.  We have 80 acres of mountain ground which I do a lot of hunting on.  Most of the farmland we have is used for our dairy operation and is in corn or alfalfa, which only leaves me with about a 1 acre pasture that I could use for a food plot.  I supplement the deer heavily in the winter with shelled corn, protein pellets and trace minerals.  During the spring and summer months I supplement some corn and protein pellets along with Trophy Rock.  Our mountain ground is relatively brushy but is starting to thin out some since we logged 8 years ago.  There is a three points to a side antler restriction in our area, but it doesn’t seem to help since most bucks are shot before they can grow into a decent 120 class buck.  What can I plant in our pasture that requires little care and provides a lot of protein, calcium and other vital rack building nutrients for the deer herd in my area?  Also, what are several choices of plants that thrive in this area?

Thanks,

Colton

Colton,

It sounds as if much of your farm may already be providing the local whitetails quality food and trace minerals.  I also use Trophy Rock to insure each deer has all the trace minerals they need for antler and fawn development.  One difference is if quality forage is available throughout the growing season.  My corn and bean crops are left standing throughout the summer and fall.  They are not harvested as a commercial crop.  I realize that most corn and bean crops are harvested.  Is the corn at your dairy farm cut for silage?  I ask because silage choppers don’t leave as much grain in the field as traditional combines.  Is all the alfalfa cut at once or is there young (6-12” tall) alfalfa available throughout the growing season?  If it’s all cut at once and the corn is cut for silage, then the local whitetails may not be receiving a constant source of quality nutrition.

Soybeans are the crop that literally drives deer herd quality throughout the ag belt (Ohio to Kansas).  This is because they provide very high quality forage throughout the antler/fawn growth season.  Generally speaking, normal production beans are selected to stop growing and become dry enough for harvest before Thanksgiving.  Eagle Seeds late maturing forage soybeans are selected to remain growing till very late in the growing season.  Hence, they are extremely hardy and provide quality forage and attraction into bow season in most states.  However, soybeans are extremely palatable to deer.  If the local deer population is high, they might consume the entire 1 ½ acres of soybeans before they become well established.  A Gallagher electric fence could be used to allow the beans to become established before being browsed.  This is a great tool for providing food in areas with high deer densities, especially for the hunting season!

If your farm crops are producing enough forage for the herd throughout the summer, then brassicas may be a good option for the 1 ½ acre plot.  They should be planted at least 45 days before the first expected frost.  If your mission is to attract deer during the hunting season, then planting corn and leaving it standing may be a great option!  Standing corn provides a great source of high-energy food and cover for deer in areas with heavy hunting pressure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Switchgrass as cover

Question
On our 250 acre Iowa farm, we have 100 acres in CRP.  I would like to increase the holding power of the farm for deer.  I am thinking of adding 5 acres of Cave In Rock Switchgrass to a brome field on the far edge of the farm.  This area will be used as a sanctuary, free from any human pressure.  The entire west half of the farm is seldom hunted to keep the pressure off established bedding areas, consisting of TSI wooded draws.  We already have 50 acres of CP-25 prairie, and 6 acres of soybeans, 6 acres clover and 7 acres of alfalfa. Are you a fan of switchgrass for cover?

Michael

Michael,

I’m a huge fan of establishing switchgrass to provide cover for wildlife!  It provides great visual and thermal cover.  Switchgrass is a very hearty species once established.  However, it is not competitive when establishing.  It is best to plant switchgrass in fields where a good seedbed has been prepared and there is no competing vegetation.

Be sure to consider the location of where to establish cover in relation to existing or planned travel corridors, food sources, and hunting locations.  In addition, consider predominate wind direction and concealment of hunters approaching stand locations.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Late season crop

Question
Hi Grant,

I really enjoy your weekly videos, keep them coming.

I have 20 acres of ag beans planted on my farm almost every year.  I have 5 acres of clover/chicory food plots and a 1 acre plot of oats, turnips, and winter wheat.  I also have a 1 1/2 acre plot that I would like to plant for late season hunting (December & January).  What would you recommend to plant there, corn, more soybeans, brassicas, or something else?  Also, if corn, what would you rotate it with?

Thanks,

John

John,

Deer readily consume grain during the late season.  Soybean or corn grain is a great attractant and provides quality nutrition.  Are the 20 acres of conventional beans you mentioned left standing or are they harvested?  If they are left standing, are they totally consumed before spring?  If so, adding another 1 ½ acres is probably not a good plan.  If they are harvested, consider a rotation of corn and soybeans in the new plot.  Since your mission for this plot is to provide food during the late season, it may be necessary to use a Gallagher electric fence that is designed to exclude deer.  This would help insure there is a source of grain during the late season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Alternate source of forage soybeans

Question
Grant,

I’m experiencing some frustration getting Antler Dirt and Eagle Seeds.  First Eagle Seeds is sold out (as of last week) then Antler Dirt hasn’t returned my email or phone message from two weeks back.

So my question is what would be your next choice in soybeans?  And what do you recommend in place of Antler Dirt?

Walter

Walter,

I’m sorry to hear you are frustrated.  I shared your note with both companies.  I was informed that Antler Dirt has made contact with you.  Eagle Seed literally breeds and produces very unique cultivars of forage soybeans.  The livestock market uses these cultivars as well as wildlife managers.  I’m not aware of another company that offers similar cultivars.  I order mine and what I need for my clients very early each year.  I do know that sometimes Eagle Seed and/or their dealers will have orders that are not picked up from time to time.  I’d encourage you to call and see if by chance that occurred this year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Does Glyphosate have pre-emergent properties?

Question
Grant,

My wildlife biologist insists that Glyphosate (“Roundup”) can be applied immediately prior to planting any seeds because, he contends, that Glyphosate has no pre-emergent properties — that it kills green plants by absorption via the growing leaves.

On the other hand, two different county extension experts tell me that “the label” for Glyphosate states that it does indeed have pre-emergent properties for 7 days and thus any plants that germinate within those 7 days will be negatively affected by this herbicide.  I assume that Roundup Ready seeds would be immune.

What is your opinion/fact on this?  Can I spray Glyphosate one day and safely plant seeds the next day?  A major reason for my question is that my wildlife biologist has a sprayer and drill he will let me use, but wants them returned ASAP.  Also, in spring, there will likely be limited opportunities for prime planting — not too dry, not too wet, rain in the forecast, etc.  It would sure be easier if I could spray then plant during one good (weather) opening.

Barry

Barry,

Glyphosate’s mode of action is absorption through living plant tissue.  It has no pre-emergent properties for any plant I’ve ever researched.  In fact, I just checked the Glyphosate label for wheat, corn, and soybeans (cereal and grain crops).  It says

Preplant, Preemergence, At-Planting

USE INSTRUCTIONS: This product may be applied before, during or after planting of cereal crops. Applications must be made prior to emergence of the crop.”

I have sprayed and planted in one day, and never experienced a problem with the crops I’ve planted.

Like you, I have limited days to plant when the conditions are favorable.  I’d suggest also checking out the herbicide Gramoxone.  It kills extremely rapidly (in a day for most annual weeds).  However, it only top kills.  Some perennial plants will resprout.  This may be a good option if you have to spray one day and plant the next.  Gramoxone requires a pesticide applicators license.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Food plots in areas with production corn and beans

Question
Hi Grant,

I live and hunt in Wisconsin.  I am in a rural area surrounded by corn, beans, and alfalfa.  I would like to do a small food plot.  With an abundance of food sources available, what should I look to plant that will bring deer in?

Thanks,

Scott

Scott,

On properties that neighbor production corn and beans it’s usually not necessary to establish warm season plots.  The production beans will provide great quality forage.  Deer frequently use corn for cover.  However, typically production crops are harvested before or during the early part of deer season.  Once the crops are harvested, the local herds will often change use/travel patterns.  They will still search for spilled grain where the crops were harvested.  Unharvested grain or good quality forage is now in demand by the local deer herd.  I have multiple clients that hunt properties in production agricultural areas.  One of the designs we often use in this type of habitat is to establish attraction plots in areas of cover.  These food sources become hot spots once the local production crops are harvested.  Deer will continue to search the production agricultural fields for grain, but mainly at night.  The sources of food tucked away in areas of cover usually are used by deer much more frequently during daylight hours, unless they receive as much hunting pressure as the production agricultural fields.

The crops to plant in these attraction plots depend on when they are to be hunted.  Well fertilized wheat is a fine crop for early season hunting.  However, in relatively small plots, it can become over-browsed before the rut or late season.  Forage brassicas can provide tons of forage and deer usually wait until a frost or two to consume them.  However, when the local herd decides it prefers brassicas, they can consume all the forage in a small plot rapidly.  The tonnage of grain produced by Eagle Seed forage soybeans often outweighs the tonnage produced by many forage crops.  Deer are very attracted to most grains, especially soybean grain during the fall.  However, forage soybeans may be consumed in small plots before they produce grain.  A simple solution is to use a Gallagher electric fence to protect the crop until you desire to hunt.  This system is a great tool for establishing maximum forage/grain for the hunting season.

If a fence is not used, there is always a trade-off between palatability/tons of forage produced/deer herd density.  Fences help insure plenty of quality food available in small plots when the hunter wants to hunt.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Information needed to maximize consultant’s visit

Question
Dr. Woods,

In your experience as a consultant for so many years, what type of information does a landowner or land manager, in my case, need to have available to get the most out of a visit from a professional consultant?  We have been managing this farm in Alabama for several years but it’s time to step it up a notch.  I read my QDMA magazine, “Farming for Wildlife,” and of course watch GrowingDeer.tv.  I have implemented several of the common techniques that have been described in the articles and episodes.  Thus, we have a grasp of the habitat management basics. What is your advice when meeting with a wildlife consultant?  How should I be prepared for the consultation to be most productive?  In order to go to the next level and reach our potential we need a few visits with a professional.

Ben

Ben,

I can only speak for my firm.  The two most important items we need to prepare a wildlife and habitat management prescription are:

  1. The client’s realistic objectives
  2. The resources available to be used in the prescription

It is critical to the success of the plan that the consultant understands the client’s realistic objectives.  This is because there is a large continuum of management possibilities.  Sometimes the client’s objectives are very general.  This seems easy, but actually causes problems as without specific objectives, the management plan can’t be customized for maximum efficiency.  In addition, general plans allow the client to interpret them one way and the consultant another.

“Realistic” also means that simply hiring a consulting wildlife biologist won’t guarantee a Boone and Crocket behind every tree next fall!  The consultant should discuss the client’s objectives before accepting the job.  Unrealistic expectations will result in a dissatisfied client and a bad reputation for the consultant.

It’s just as important for the consultant to understand what resources are available as it serves no purpose to prescribe management activities that are not practical to implement.  For example, prescribing the establishment and maintenance of 20 acres of food plots when there is not a tractor available doesn’t help the landowner or wildlife population.  Likewise, prescribing fire as a management tool for a leased property may be useless if the client doesn’t have permission to burn.

Wildlife management is as much of an art as it is a science.  The artist can only be as creative as the tools available for use allows.  To get the most out of hiring a consulting wildlife biologist, make sure they know the realistic objectives and what tools are available to implement the plan.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do deer consume cannabis?

Question
I’m not sure if the Tulsa news makes it up to you in Missouri but we recently had a large cannabis field found on public hunting land in northeast Oklahoma.  It made me wonder, do deer consume cannabis/hemp?

J Damon

J Damon,

Cannabis in May?  I’ve heard that cannabis is consumed by deer, especially when it is young.  Hopefully, they consume it all and save our law enforcement friends some work!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Food plot pH and Antler Dirt

Question

I just watched the video on Antler Dirt (episode 22).  On my property I have heavy clay soil which would benefit from Antler Dirt, but I am concerned about ph issues.  My ph is 7.2 naturally and Antler Dirt would possibly add to that.  I have a local option but it’s not the quality of Antler Dirt.  I have also found a good source of pelletized chicken litter that is only 6 miles away.  Would this be a reasonable substitute?  If so, how much can I use per acre?

Albert

Albert,

Yes, composted and humified litter could significantly improve the production of heavy clay soils.  I believe Antler Dirt’s pH is very close to neutral.  I’ve been applying Antler Dirt to some of my plots at The Proving Grounds for five years and the pH started in the low 5’s and has increased to 6.8 to 7.2 and has stabilized in that range.  In addition, one of the great benefits of Antler Dirt is that it can be custom blended for specific sites.

Usually raw chicken litter has a pH of 8.0 to 8.2, depending on the bedding material, etc.  I would certainly ask for an analysis of the raw litter, or collect a sample and have it analyzed.  This would allow you to determine the benefits and other considerations of that product.  Certainly having a source within six miles could be a huge benefit!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Mixing corn with soybeans

Dr. Grant,

We are about to plant our Eagle Seed soybeans and want to mix in some RR corn with them.  When we sent off the soil samples, they ask what crop you are going to plant.  We said soybeans but didn’t mention the corn.  The soybeans don’t require nitrogen but the corn will.  Do we need to add nitrogen to the mix for the corn when we fertilize?  Is this something we should add later when the corn starts to come up?

Thank You!

Kevin

Kevin,

I used to  mix corn with soybeans, but don’t anymore because I’ve learned the yield is much higher when planting the two crops separately and managing each plot for the specific crop.  Your question is a good example.  For the corn to do well, you’d need to broadcast nitrogen throughout the entire plot, but the reduced corn density will not take advantage of the nitrogen throughout the plot.  It’s true that Eagle Seed forage beans produce a lot of nitrogen, but it is distributed throughout the plot.

When considering the timing of planting, spraying, and crop specific fertilizer needs the yield of each crop would be much better to plant 1/3 of the plot in corn and 2/3 of the plot in beans.  If that is simply not practical for your situation, then I’d reduce the corn seeding rate to 5,000 kernels per acre and mix with the beans.

For those that might not be familiar, seed corn is sold in bags of 80,000 kernels.  So it is easy to determine the weight of 5,000 kernels by dividing the total weight of a bag of corn by 16 to determine the weight of 5,000 kernels.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How to deal with Buckthorn

Have you ever dealt with Buckthorn?  Our property in Minnesota has a growing Buckthorn problem and we are looking for solutions to help eliminate it.  Thank you for your time and advice.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Unfortunately, there are gads of plants that share the common name of Buckthorn.  I think I know what you are talking about, but never wish to prescribe a control program without knowing for sure.

Check out this website and determine if we are talking about the same species.  If so, there is a thorough explanation of control techniques on that site.  If we are describing the same species, early control is much easier and less expensive than waiting until it spreads.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Best time to hunt based on moon phases

I listened to you today on Jock 98.7’s Wild Idea Archery Show.  If you get tired of your day job, you should be a comedian.  I really got a lot out of what you said.

Unfortunately, I don’t have my own place and usually end up hunting conservation land in northern Missouri.  On our new year’s weekend bow hunt this past winter we saw over 100 deer per day…..on conservation ground.  I couldn’t believe it!  But 10 inches of snow, 18 below zero temps and standing corn may have had a little bit to do with that.

Anyway, my question is about moon phases.  I don’t get a whole lot of time to bow hunt so I try and make my times count.  What is the best piece of advice you could give me on deer movement?  I have heard so many different things over the years.  For instance, “if the moon is overhead during the day you better be hunting.”  Also, do you know where I can find a moon phase map that is cheap?

By the way, I feel for you hunting those hills down in Branson.  I know the owner of SaddleBrooke and he used to let me hunt on the west side of Highway 65 and it was all walking, no four wheelers.  We saw a few deer and a lot of turkeys, but it was a 45 minute drive from my home in Republic, so we found a place closer.

I appreciate any help you can give me.  Take care, good hunting and God bless.

Brian

Brian,

Thanks for checking out GrowingDeer.tv!

There are gads of calendars, articles, etc., that predict when deer will be most active based on the phase of the moon.  Some are online, some are for sale, and some are published in hunting magazines.  However, there have been numerous scientific studies using actual conception dates of deer, movement patterns collected by GPS collars, etc.  None of these studies have found any correlation of deer activity and specific moon phases.  Maybe these studies aren’t looking for the correct correlation.  There is always room for further research.

I hunt when I can and absolutely don’t worry about what’s the current phase of the moon.  With that said, if you have a system that works for you, don’t change!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What job is best for me?

Grant,

I am a high school senior in central Missouri and I do not know what I want to become.  I love to hunt, hunt, hunt and I don’t want to get away from it as I go onto college!  I’m big into filming and want to get better and better!  What job career would get me outdoors and let me have time to enjoy every season?

Clint

Clint,

As far as I know, there are very few jobs where folks actually make a living hunting.  The folks I know that hunt the most are folks that have worked hard at some career and have built up enough seniority/vacation time to have enough days to hunt.  I have friends that are UPS drivers, train engineers, etc., and they hunt many more days a year than I do.

For example, most wildlife biologists I know are working during most of the hunting seasons.  Many go into the profession because they enjoy hunting, but they often find they don’t make enough wages to afford hunts in faraway places, and don’t have enough time to hunt close to home.

You should accept that work consumes much of an adult’s life.  I think the most important characteristic of a good job is doing something that you enjoy and which allows you to use your God-given talents.  Honestly consider what you really like to do.  As a criteria, what you would like to do when you are old or in harsh conditions?  Eliminate what you don’t consider fun when days are not going well.  If you don’t find it fun sometimes now, you will really dislike it when you do it daily for 20+ years.  Next consider what skills you have naturally.  Pair the always fun with natural skills and you will have a happy and successful career.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Forage crops for whitetail hunting in Nova Scotia

Hey Grant,

I just discovered your website and have been glued to it for the last 3 days!

I am 26 and have 60 acres in Nova Scotia, Canada that I have been slowly grooming for whitetails over the past 3 years.  I am purchasing a compact tractor this week and plan to expand my foot plots and maybe some cover.  I currently have 2.5 acres of clover and would like to plant one more attractant plot as well as some winter feed.  If I am going to have less than ten acres planted in total, what would you suggest for the rest of my plots to go with my clover?  I am very interested in both the soybeans and corn idea, but how big would I have to go to make it work?

Thanks,

Dan

Dan,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  There are several variables that should be considered in developing your plan.  What to plant for attractant plots depends on the time of year you wish to hunt.  Do you plan to hunt the early portion of the archery season?  Then late maturing forage soybeans may be perfect!  Do you wish to hunt the last portion of the season?  If so, then cold hearty brassicas would be a good choice.  Another consideration is what other forage resources are available in your neighborhood.  If your property is adjacent to one of Nova Scotia’s famous blueberry farms or apple orchards, then the local herd would be well feed during a specific time of the year and your crops need to be productive during other times.

If the local habitat is lacking in food, and the local deer density is high, then it might be necessary to protect a portion of your crop with a Gallagher electric fence to allow some crops to mature before allowing/wanting deer to have access them.  This is an excellent and cost effective technique to provide tons of high quality forage for literally pennies a pound.

It sounds as if you have all the tools to be successful.  The next step is defining your mission so you can best use the available information and resources to achieve your objectives.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Predicting acorn yield

Grant,

Is there a way to tell what the acorn mass will be this fall by looking at the trees in the spring?  We haven’t had a bumper crop in 8 years.  Two hundred and fifty miles west, on another farm, it seems to hit every 3 years.  Can a frost or heavy rain, maybe even a strong wind, affect the acorns?

I look forward to seeing your new video each week.

Thanks,

Chad

Chad,

I’m not aware of any reliable method during the spring to predict acorn production for the following fall.  Oaks produce flowers, although their flowers aren’t showy like many plants.  These flowers can be damaged by frost, heavy rain, hail, etc.  Once the flowers are pollinated, another gad of events can prevent the young acorns from developing.  This is why acorn production is so variable!  In fact, in areas where acorns are the primary food source during the fall/winter, it’s best to keep the herd density at a low level so there is plenty of food during years of minimal acorn production.  Years of good acorn yield should be considered a bonus food source because it is so unreliable.  Otherwise there will be many years when the herd is malnourished.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Make money playing

I would like to make my land pay for itself by making it a “wildlife research facility” if possible.  Can you tell me how to go about that?  Is that even possible?  Incorporate?  It’s in Virginia and I’m putting in food plots, cutting trees, working the pond, etc.  Hope you can suggest something.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe,

I don’t have any advice, but if you learn how to PLEASE let me know!!!

Growing Deer (and spending $) together,

Grant

Nutritional value of acorns during spring

Grant,

Thanks for the great website.

My property is located in central Wisconsin.  We receive approximately 1 – 2 feet of snow through a typical winter.  The snow is typically covering the ground from December through March.  Low temps fall below zero occasionally throughout a normal winter.  What is the nutritional value of the acorns that I see on the ground in March/April compared to the same acorns that fell off of the oaks in August/September of the previous year?  Does the snow and cold protect the nutritional value of the acorns or do the nutrients within the acorns deplete with time?

Thanks in advance and keep up the great service that you are providing with GrowingDeer.tv.

Craig

Craig,

I don’t know the answer to your question.  I did a quick search and didn’t find any relevant information.  White oak acorns often germinate during the fall, unless it gets cold very soon.  If the acorns you found were cracked, etc., I doubt they have much nutritional value.  Red Oak acorns usually remain whole much longer.  It’s possible Red Oak acorns could maintain their nutritional value if they remain whole and dry.  If they were positioned in water or the temperatures were warm enough that the moisture wasn’t frozen, it’s likely some mold or fungus would grow on them by spring.

Addressing your question from another point of view, I very rarely notice acorns in the stomach content of deer harvested for research this time of year.  It would seem deer are not readily consuming acorns during the early spring.

If you learn differently, please let me know.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Difference between Antler Dirt and MicroLeverage

Grant,

What’s the difference between MicroLeverage and Antler Dirt and what are the different situations in which you use these fertilizers?

I enjoy GrowingDeer.tv very much.  Thanks for helping me to be a better deer manager.  Your help at Heart’s Desire Hunting Club in Tennessee is still benefiting us every day!

Sincere best regards,

Ned

Ned,

As I understand, Antler Dirt has specific minerals added that may help with antler/fawn production – pending on the existing availability of these minerals in the native soil.  Hence, Antler Dirt is blended specifically for maximizing the potential of forage for white-tailed deer.  MicroLeverage is blended to maximize forage production, but doesn’t include the same mineral combination.  Both products are produced by a small company, so I’d contact them for a definitive answer.  Thanks for your kind words and for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What to plant in small plot for attracting deer

I have a small plot of about 3000 square feet, next to a small pond in the middle of the woods.  It’s intended to be a stopping point along the way from the main ag field to bedding cover.  What would you recommend for such a small plot?

Mike

Mike,

I assume you wish to stop deer during the hunting season?  If so, I’d recommend a clover/wheat blend if you plan to primarily hunt the early to mid season.  If you plan to hunt the mid to late season, I’d recommend a mix of clover and brassicas.

Just as important as what to plant is the timing and establishment techniques.  Plant very early if you are an early season bow hunter so it will be established by opening day.  Plant a minimum of 45 days before the first expected frost if you are a late season hunter so the crops will have plenty of time to produce enough forage that they aren’t consumed to rapidly.  If rapid consumption is a major concern, then consider fencing all or a portion of the plot to preserve some of the forage for when you wish to hunt.  Gallagher Fencing has some good options.  Finally, you certainly want maximum yield.  To accomplish this test the soil to insure you add the appropriate nutrients to maximize the yield.  Be sure to tell the lab what you plan to plant as the recommendations vary significantly from crop to crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What to plant in new plots in northern Missouri

Hello,

Thanks for putting together such an informative site.

I live in northern Missouri and just bulldozed a 1.5 and 2.5 acre plot out of an oak forest.  I have done soil samples that show a pH of around 6 to 6.5.  I am going to lime this spring.  I want to know if I should spring plant after adding the lime or if I should plant this fall after the lime has had time to work on a new food plot.  I was planning on using clover, but after watching your show I would also like to know if the forage soybeans (or another option) would be a better option on a new plot with less desirable soil as I try to improve the soil.  The surrounding property is a cattle ranch without any crops.

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for giving me great background information!  It’s always easier to prescribe a plan when more details are provided!  I would plant something now in the new plot.  If you don’t it will likely produce a good crop of weeds, and weed seeds.   Eagle Seed forage soybeans are a great option!  Like all crops, they do require phosphorous (P) and potassium (K).  Based on your soil tests results, insure that at least 100 pounds of P and 150 pounds of K per acre are available for maximum yield.  They will produce if less P and K are provided, but given the acreage it’s more cost effective to maximize those acres then clear more plots.  In addition, I like to insure I’m building the soil in addition to producing a crop.  If you believe the deer density is too high for forage soybeans to become established in these plots (given they may be the best forage in the neighborhood), then consider a less palatable crop such as buckwheat, an annual clover, etc.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What to plant in fire breaks?

I have fire breaks and a couple of old roads on my property.  I would like your suggestions on a planting solution for those openings, be it a clover combination, one particular clover or something else.

Joseph

Joseph,

Planting fire breaks/old roads is good management and can be used to create outstanding hunting locations!  If your fire breaks are bordered by thinned pines, then almost any forage crop can be used.  If the fire breaks are around hardwoods or closed canopy pines, then several clover varieties might be the best choice as they are relatively shade tolerant.

There are several brands of clover or clover mixes on the market.  I’m sure many would work.  However, I was impressed with the Durana Clover that was planted in the thinned rows of a pine stand that was shown on the April 5th episode of GrowingDeer.tv (episode 19).

Many of the forage brassicas also do well in areas that receive partial sunlight.  The more sunlight that reaches the ground, the more options you have when planting forage crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Can I plant in paths through pine stands?

Dear Grant,

First off, I want to thank you for answering all my questions in the past.  It’s nice to know someone well known actually cares about the regular person and doesn’t mind helping.

My quick question is what can you plant in paths through pine stands besides clover at this stage of the year?  It seems a little late to plant clover and I hate to wait until September to plant something.

Thanks again,

Kevin

Dry food plot in a utility cage

Kevin,

Thanks for the kind words!  I have found that most forage crops do well when planted in thinned pine stands.  During droughts, crops usually do better in the thinned pine stands compared to areas that are fully exposed to the sun.  This is because soil moisture evaporation occurs at a slower rate within the partial canopy as compared to areas with no protection from the sun throughout the day.

In fact, I’ve seen forage crops thrive within a thinned pine stand, while a total failure occurred just yards away in plots that were totally exposed to the sun.  The crop in this image was limed, fertilized and planted on the same day.  This is due to a huge difference in soil moisture.

I’ve produced great crops of Eagle Seed forage soybeans, and have had clients produce corn, buckwheat, etc., planted in thinned pines.   I believe the biggest determinant of success is not what is planted, but that adequate lime and fertilizer are added.  It seems some folks opt to skip that critical step when establishing forage crops in thinned pine stands.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What to plant in a new food plot in Tennessee

Yesterday a friend asked me what and how to plant a 1.5 acre spot that has been a regrowth area for the last several years.  The place is in middle Tennessee about twenty minutes from his home.  He has minimal equipment.

Thanks,

Wilson

Wilson,

Without knowing a few other factors like the local deer density, soil type, etc., it’s tough to give an accurate recommendation.  I’ll share a few general guidelines…

Forage varieties with small-sized seed are usually best for plots where minimal equipment is available for establishment.  These varieties usually don’t require being covered as deep with soil as larger-sized seed for successful establishment.  With that said, it’s probably too late in the spring to plant clover.  However, a bit earlier in the spring clover would have been a good option if the weeds can be controlled and adequate lime/fertilizer can be spread at the site.

Buckwheat is an often overlooked forage that deer prefer.  It is relatively easy to establish, deer usually readily consume it, and it will grow at marginal sites.  Like all forages, it will do better on better sites!

Most forage brassicas will grow almost anywhere, but will perform best during the fall in Tennessee.

The yields of forage crops, like most things in life, reflect the effort put into them.  There are no magic cultivars that I’m aware of which will produce tons of forage without inputting some effort and resources to establish and maintain them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Setting a bow’s draw length

My bow has draw length from 17-30 and its draw weight is from 16-52.  Can you estimate on which draw length I should put it if I want 35 draw weight?

Mohammad

Mohammad,

I’m assuming your bow is a compound.  If that’s a correct assumption, then the drawn length should be set to ensure it fits your stance and comfort level.  Setting the draw length should be independent of the bow’s draw weight.

Next, the bow’s draw weight should be set at a level that you can shoot comfortably, without straining during longer practice sessions.  If you plan to hunt with this bow, it’s critical the weight is set so you can smoothly draw the bow after you’ve remained cold and still for extended periods of time.

Going to a local bow shop or getting with a friend that has the proper tools for setting up a bow (bow press, level, scale, range, etc.) is a great way to get a bow set up correctly.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Cover on small acreage

Do you have any videos on building and enhancing a sanctuary on small acres?  I just found your site and like what I see.

Thank you,

Lyle

Lyle,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  I explained the qualities of various types of cover (hardwood samplings, mature cedars, native grass, etc.) in the March 8th episode (episode 15).  These descriptions included information on how these cover types were established and what I do to maintain them.  The April 12th episode is about using fire to maintain cover by controlling the stage of succession (episode 20).  In addition, cover has been discussed briefly in other episodes.  I hope you find this information useful.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Date of food plot episode

What was the date of your video on forage food plots?  I could not find it on your page.

We intend to plant this month in Georgia.

Don

Don,

There have been several episodes about food plots.  The episode on April 5th was about establishing and maintaining plots in the thinned rows of pine stands (episode 19).  The March 29th episode was a review of cool season food plots at The Proving Grounds (episode 18).   There are several episodes listed just below the video player on the main page.  Hope this helps!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Keeping crows from pulling up corn seedlings

Great site you have started.  I really like it.

How can I keep crows from pulling up my corn I just planted?  We have 6 corn fields and the biggest is close to 3 acres.  Soon as it starts coming up the crows pull it up.  Anything I can treat the seed with or spray on the plants to keep them from doing this?

I turkey hunt these same fields so shooting them may scare my turkey’s off.

Thanks,

Chad

Chad,

Dang crows!  I don’t know of any method to deter crows that won’t deter turkeys.  All the guys I know that work animal damage control simply grab a shotgun and case of shells when dealing with crow complaints.  Crows rapidly become conditioned to not fear non-lethal means such as propane cannons, etc.  The good news is that corn should rapidly grow past the stage where crows damage the seedlings.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Soybeans as a cool season forage

Grant,

I planted the forage soybeans by Eagle Seed you talk about in your videos last summer where I hunt in south Alabama.  The bean plants did extremely well – the best ever for me.  Of course all the above average rainfall had to have helped as well.  The deer seem to browse all summer and go to it well.  I ended up disking under the plants with the beans still on the plants when it came time to plant my winter plots.  This year I’m planning to leave the bean field as long as possible because I think I could hunt the bean field in bow season and into early gun season.  I may even leave the beans in one area and not plant a winter plot at all to see what happens.  What are your thoughts and recommendations on this strategy for both nutrition and hunting?

Keith

Keith,

I’ve faced that same dilemma with Eagle Seed beans.  Because they are bred to mature very late in the growing season, they are typically still producing browse (and beans) when it is time to plant fall/winter plots.  I find it painful to mow great looking soybeans down that are providing quality forage and a ton or more of grain (the developing beans) only to go to the expense of planting a crop that may or may not eventually produce that much forage.

So, last year I did a test.  I mowed down some Eagle Seed beans and planted a typical blend of wheat, clover, and brassicas.  During the next several months I compared the productivity and deer’s preference of the Eagle beans I left standing to the wheat blend I planted.  These plots were side by side.  The standing beans provided WAY more green forage during the growing season and more pounds of quality food in the form of bean grain then the wheat/clover/brassica blend produced.  I should note that it was a long cold winter at The Proving Grounds and the wheat blend wasn’t very productive until recently.  There were about two weeks early this spring when the temperatures warmed enough to allow the wheat blend to grow rapidly and the deer certainly utilized that crop during that period.

The results were that the Eagle Seed beans produced many more tons of forage last fall, yielded more pounds of quality food in bean production, and were more desirable to the deer herd than the wheat blend.

Based on these observations, my program this year will include leaving standing any Eagle Seed beans that produced well through the summer.  If there are any areas where the Eagle Seed beans were browsed so much that there is not much forage or bean pods left by August, I’ll simply drill a wheat/clover blend into that crop.  In other words, I’ll judge each plot by the quantity and quality of forage available when it’s time to establish plots this fall.  I don’t want to make the mistake of mowing super high quality forage and remove developing bean pods that will produce more pounds of food that deer prefer than the crop I’ll have to spend resources on to establish.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How many pines to leave in a food plot

Dr. Grant,

I talked with an uncle of mine recently who has been planting food plots for quite awhile.  He suggested cutting down all the pine trees in my plot area.  I have a variety of pines out there but they all have weeds and grass growing under them.  I plan on taking out a few of them to open shooting distances but wasn’t planning on cutting them all down because I want to maintain as natural a setting out there as possible.

What do you think?

Gerald

Gerald,

As long as there is enough sunlight reaching the ground to produce the desired crops’, and enough acreage available to produce more food than the local herd can consume, the amount of trees left is more of a choice about aesthetics.  Deer certainly prefer feeding in areas close to cover versus wide open fields, especially during daylight hours.  There needs to be enough room between the trees so they won’t be damaged by equipment used to establish and maintain the crops.  Another consideration would be the types of herbicides you plan to use on that plot.  Many ag crop herbicides are not harmful to pines, but some are.  It would be a waste to design and establish a beautiful plot, only to kill the cover trees when simply spraying herbicide.  A lesson I’ve learned the hard way more than once is that it’s always easier to remove trees that you question may or may not be in the way when establishing a plot, then removing a tree that has fallen in an established plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Low hole in the bucket

Dear Grant,

I was wondering if you could expand on the idea you posed for micronutrients being almost as important as the more focused on nutrients (N,P,K, etc.) available in the soil for food plots?  Also, would magnesium and calcium be considered micronutrients?

If your budget only allowed improving the soil in one aspect, would pH be the best component to correct?  Seems like it would be the cheapest at least….some of our soil is as low as 5.5 pH!

Thanks in advance and great job with the burn downs (episode 20)!!

Andy

Andy,

While in college, I remember learning about Liebig’s Law of the Minimum.  It’s simply a principle developed in the early 1800’s that states “growth is controlled not by the total of resources available, but by the scarcest resource (limiting factor).”

As an illustration, a plant could be attempting to grow in an area that had ample nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K).  However, if there is no iron available, the plant will not be very productive.  Iron is required to form chlorophyll (for photosynthesis).  Therefore, even though the plant has access to all the N, P, and K (macro nutrients or nutrients that are required by plants in a high volume), its growth will be severely limited because trace amounts of iron are not available.

Many food plot farmers only test the soil in their plots to determine how much N, P, and K are available.  For a few more dollars good labs, like Waters Ag, will test for the macro nutrients (N, P, and K) and the most critical micronutrients also.  Even fewer food plot farmers use a fertilizer that includes the most critical micro nutrients.  That is one reason (among many) that I use Antler Dirt.

Remember that plants are only nutrient transfer agents.  If the nutrients aren’t available to the plant, they can’t be transferred to the deer.  The productivity of deer (antlers and fawns, among other measures) can be limited due to the lack of trace elements.  I refer to Liebig’s Law of the Minimum as the “low hole in the bucket.”  As a manager, I can plug several holes, but if I don’t plug the lowest hole, the deer herd can’t express its full potential.  The best deer managers constantly strive to plug the lowest hole.

Yes, I always direct my limited food plot budget to correcting the pH before spending resources on other limited nutrients.  pH is often a low hole in the food plot bucket!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

High Altitude Food Plots

I want to plant some food plots in Colorado at 7,500 feet in the pine tree area. The pH is 7, the annual moisture is 15″ and the soils are about 50% decomposed granite.  I am looking for something for a food plot and also for a fall planting honing plot.

I will be writing an article on this for numerous magazines since we support about 25 magazines.

Thank you,

Greg

Greg,

High altitude locations are usually associated with tough conditions to produce forage crops.  Forage brassicas are one of the best choices for those conditions.  They are relatively drought hardy, cold hardy, and can produce a lot of tonnage in a short timeframe.  The forage brassica plots I’ve tried in similar conditions grew okay, but were rapidly consumed by elk.

I’ll be happy to come do some research for you (with my bow)!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Holding antlers during late winter a good sign!

On March 26, 2010 I got a beautiful picture of a four point buck.  I was very surprised!  I live in Attica, New York (between Buffalo and Rochester).

I was told that he didn’t cast his antlers because his system doesn’t have enough mineral content.  Can this be true?  I have never come across this before and I am a 63 year old avid hunter.

Thank you for any information. Love your articles.

Thomas

Thomas,

In areas of good habitat, it’s common for healthy bucks to hold their antlers until late March.  In fact, we had several trail camera images of bucks with antlers during late March at The Proving Grounds this year.  I consider seeing bucks holding their antlers during late winter a sign of good habitat and the health of that buck.  Thanks for the kind words!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Source of Drip Torches

Hello Grant,

Mark here again.  I watched your latest video about burning (episode 20).  Where do you get those “flame throwers”…and are they filled with kerosene?

Mark

Mark,

We purchase most of our fire equipment, including the drip torches from Cascade Fire Equipment.  However, there are several sources.

We use 2/3’s diesel and 1/3 gas.  Caution – NEVER use pure gas!!!!  There are lots of good publications on the web about the proper use of drip torches.  Be careful!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Quality forage needed to express potential

First off, thanks for your site and help.

We’ve been managing our property of 250 acres for over ten years.  Our neighbors on two sides (3000 acres) have been managing for about 6 years.  One of the other sides just came under management (1500 acres), and of course, the last side (2000 acres) is not so good (ha-ha).  We’ve seen better deer in the 3-6 year old range.  The problem is we still don’t see the deer that we know have been around.  Are some bucks just “freaks of nature” or is something still missing?

Kevin

Kevin,

Mature bucks are a result of good trigger finger management (passing young bucks and allowing them to mature before being harvested).  However, to express their maximum antler growth potential mature bucks need access to all the quality forage they wish to consume.  Insufficient quality forage is probably the most common limiting factor of mature bucks not expressing their antler growth potential.  I don’t know if this is true on your property, but it is worth investigating.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How to make maps

I would like to know what program you used to make your maps that were shown in your March 29th video Food Plot Review (episode 18).  I really liked the layout and the ability to label different areas of your map.

Thank you!

Tim

Tim,

We used to use some very expensive software and GPS equipment to create custom maps.  However, we now use Google Earth, PowerPoint, and other readily available programs to create maps.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Map of The Proving Grounds

I love the map I saw on the March 29th video Food Plot Review (episode 18), but I couldn’t find it on the site.  Can you post it?

Doug

Doug,

We use maps constantly and change them as our management practices change.  Hence, we’ll be using updated maps in future episodes.  If we posted a map, it would be out of date soon.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Touring The Proving Grounds

Hey Grant,

I was wondering if I could come learn about your food plots.  I heard of your website from Bill on Midwest Whitetail.

Austin (Memphis, MO)

Austin,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!  We do give tours of The Proving Grounds and provide counsel about food plots and other habitat management subjects.  We charge $500 per day for a custom tour.  For more information, click here.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Producing 200” class bucks

I have a 1000 acre piece here in southwest Wisconsin.  I have been improving the property since I bought it 5 years ago.  I plant 40 acres of crops yearly for wildlife, including beans and corn as well as winter wheat and alfalfa.  Twenty-five to fifty does are shot yearly and that still isn’t enough.  I see (and shoot) 1-2 bucks per year in the 160-165 range, obviously older deer.  My goal is to see/grow a buck in the 190-200 inch range, but I’m becoming skeptical that it can happen.  These deer seem to top out in the 150-165 range at 4-6 years.  Am I being naive about what this area can produce?  There have been several deer over 200 inches shot in the surrounding 25 mile radius over the last several years.  My neighbor killed a 186 typical 10 with 4 inches or better broken off a tine 2 years ago.  What is realistic?

Gary

Gary,

It sounds as if you have a great management program to meet your mission of producing mature bucks.  To estimate the potential maximum BC score that can be expected from a property, I frequently attempt to find the score of the top ten bucks harvested in the neighborhood or similar habitat.  I then consider the management potential of the property in question (amount of quality food, cover, and water), and the current practices on the neighboring properties.  I also consider the size of the properties where the largest bucks in the neighborhood were harvested (why did those bucks survive to maturity?).  It sounds as if you’ve completed a similar analysis.

Based on the information you have provided me, it seems realistic for a 200” class buck to be produced and harvested on/near your property.  With that said, remember that producing and harvesting a free-ranging 200” class buck is a VERY rare event.  If that is truly your goal, it is critical to make sure each deer has all the quality food, cover, and water they want.  A good indicator that these conditions exist is if there is plenty of quality forage available during late summer and late winter.  In addition, it’s best to pass all bucks until they are four years old or older so their antler growth potential can be estimated.  Then, the best four year olds should be passed a few more years as many bucks don’t express their full antler growth potential until they are six years old or older.  Yes, passing a 170” class buck is tough, but often necessary to produce 200” class bucks.  Attempting to produce a 200” deer requires intense management and discipline.  Each person must evaluate the costs and benefits, like we should in all activities in life.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Sugar Beets

Grant,

I was curious as to all of the steps necessary in planting sugar beets.

  • Time of year?
  • How deep to till?
  • Where?
  • What kind are best?
  • How big of a food plot?

I have zero knowledge of planting food plots.  I am only 21 and live in a suburb near Chicago.  Will deer get accustomed to sugar beets if they do not already exist in the area?  (Corn and beans are planted heavily around our wood lines, they switch every year.)

Thank you Grant, I appreciate all of the help you are providing to people like me!

Bobby

Bobby,

I’ve never planted sugar beets at my place or for clients.  So I don’t have any first hand information.  Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Food plot preparation

Dear Grant,

I’m at the beginning stages of learning food plot preparation, currently in Michigan.  I have a small area at the back of my rural 5 acres which joins up with a small mixed hardwoods stand as well as several farm fields.  I’ll be making about a 3/4 to 1 acre food plot and would like to know what the proper way is to prep the ground.  My plan at this point is to break (rototill or disk) the ground to incorporate and kill off the existing grass and weeds that I have kept mowed to normal lawn length.  Then I am going to spray the emerging weeds in late April with a 41% Glyphosate herbicide.  After the recommended 2 week wait for the product to be absorbed I will plant, either by broadcast or Plotmaster 400, a combination seed plot blend called Bird & Buck gourmet produced by Dr. Paul Morrow.  Please let me know what you think of my plan and if there is anything you would do differently.

Thanks,

Gerald

Gerald,

Your plan sounds fine!  I always add ammonia sulfate and surfactant to Glyphosate (if it’s not included in the brand I purchased).  The ammonia sulfate is readily taken up by most plants.  This serves to improve the uptake of the Glyphosate.

The function of a surfactant (an abbreviation for “surface active reagent”) is to spread the spray droplet evenly over the leaf surface, help it to adhere to the leaf, and increase penetration of the herbicide into the waxy cuticle that covers the leaf surface.  Just applying water to a waxy leaf surface would cause the spray droplet to bead up, so surfactants greatly facilitates spray coverage and aids in enhancing herbicide uptake (and of course the weed dies much better as well!).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Experimenting with forage types

I want to start off by saying I love GrowingDeer.tv and everything you do for wildlife and helping others help wildlife.

I bought a 1 acre bag of Eagle Seed Wildlife Managers Mix and would like to know if you tried that type of Eagle seed and how it worked for you?  If you have tried it what kind of fertilizer did you use?  I also purchased a bag of inoculant from Eagle Seed and wondered if I should also put a packet of DeltAg on it?  Could you give a rough estimate on how long this Eagle Seed will stay green?  I am also planting a 1/2 acre of another brand (Ev-H) that has corn and soybeans with another 1/2 acre of Milo, peas and soybeans (Teco) from a third company.  I already have a 1/2 acre of clover and chicory coming up great this spring.  I have farms all around me that plant beans, corn and alfalfa.  I have to plant all the different seed types in pretty much the same 4-1/2 acre area due to lack of other space on my 17 acres.  I am not mixing them together so I can see what works best and will provide the wildlife forage all year.  I planted the Milo, bean and pea mixture last year and it held up pretty well, but it never got totally mature because of over grazing. Do you think I have enough seed now to just go ahead and plant this year or should I buy some type of plot protector?  I might also try to fit in a 1/4 acre of corn to block visibility from the road and a 1/4 acre of brassicas for late winter (if I have enough space).  If you could give me a good suggestion on the corn and brassica types that would be great.  I had only 1 acre planted last year and deer sightings increased greatly.  It also allowed me to harvest a 5-1/2 year old or greater whitetail buck with a 20″ inside spread.  It was my first ever harvest with a bow and it was also my largest whitetail to date.  I am 32 years of age and live in central Pennsylvania and the first frost usually does not hit until mid-October.  Also, deer population dropped greatly because of severe poaching in the area and some were probably taken do to a bad winter!  It makes me sick to my stomach because they still have not caught the poachers and so far at least 15 deer were shot.  I thought you should know so it will make it a little easier on some of my questions.  Any other helpful information will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much for your time and have a wonderful 4 seasons.

God bless,

Chad

Chad,

Congratulations for harvesting a mature buck!!   Sounds like you are being wise and experimenting to determine what forage crops work best at your site!  I strongly suggest using a utilization cage for each forage type, so preference and production can be accurately monitored.

I have tried the Eagle Seed Wildlife Manager’s Mix.  In fact, I’m planting it again this year at The Proving Grounds.   It typically remains green until the first frost, especially at the latitude of your property.  I use inoculant, but not any other seed additive when planting Eagle Seed beans.   If over browsing is a problem, Gallagher Fence offers some good solutions.  Over browsing is always a great indicator of too many deer for the quantity of quality forage available.  So, consider the mission for your food plots and develop a plan to meet that mission.  If it is protecting crops on relatively small acreage until hunting season, then a fence may be a great tool!!

You might wish to reconsider planting corn by a public road.  Corn is an attractant for deer, especially during deer season.  Planting corn by the road may have the opposite effect that you desire.

There are several quality brassica blends on the market.  I assume you will plant the brassicas during the late summer?  If so, always make sure there is plenty of quality food left on the property when you prepare to plant the brassicas to insure you don’t clean the table and invite the deer to seek food  elsewhere just before deer season.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Mix crops with clover

Dr. Grant:

I just watched your episode (#19) with Bobby Watkins at Coontail, and was wondering if planting an annual seed with the Durana Clover the first year of planting is a smart idea.  I hunt several hundred acres of managed pine and it is usually difficult to maintain a productive food plot, seems as if it fades out in late October from deer pressure as well as lack of sunlight in the fall.  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Bob

Bob,

If planting clover during the fall, I usually mix in wheat as a cover crop.  It is important to remove the wheat before it gets one foot tall or so the following spring.  I prefer using a grass-specific herbicide rather than mowing to remove the wheat and reduce competition from the clover.  Mowing won’t always kill the wheat, and it leaves a huge amount of duff that can provide too much shade on the newly established clover.  However, if the wheat is less than one foot tall, a grass-specific herbicide will kill the wheat and allow it to dry while standing upright.  This process avoids placing a huge amount of duff on the newly established clover.

If planting clover during the spring, I don’t mix in any additional forage except chicory if I don’t plan to use a broadleaf herbicide on that plot.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Camera surveys

I absolutely love your new website.  The information that you are providing is invaluable to those of us who are actively involved in managing our properties and our deer herds.  I am a consulting forester and I am sure that I will be utilizing some of the knowledge gained from your video clips in developing future forest management plans for clients.  Keep up the excellent work!

Before my question, please allow me to provide a brief background; I own property in western West Virginia.  I have been a member of the QDMA for 8 or 9 years now. Through articles I have read in “Quality Whitetails” I became interested in camera inventories.  For the past four years I have conducted a camera inventory on my 200 acres.  I modified the basic parameters somewhat in that I run one bait per 50 acres and I run the cameras for three weeks and include pictures from the very first week in the inventory.  My initial thoughts were that I would just have more pictures to go through, but I am now wondering if my modifications could cause any type of biases in the data.  I would be extremely interested in hearing your much respected opinion on this situation.

Thank you, in advance, for your time and advice.

Mark

Mark,

Thanks for the kind words!  There are potentially tradeoffs of the intensive data collection associated with a camera survey that you discussed.  Probably the most prominent is the tradeoff of collecting more data versus more disturbance to the local herd and habitat.  One method to monitor the effectiveness of your techniques is to plot out the number of new bucks photographed each day of the survey.  Typically, the percentage of new bucks photographed starts relatively high, then drops off to almost no new bucks by day 12 or so.  In addition, are you obtaining images of the same mature bucks throughout the survey, or is it obvious that some of the mature bucks are not present due to disturbance as the survey progresses?  I really enjoy checking cameras and inventorying the images, but there is a point of diminishing returns where disturbance exceeds the value of limited new data being added to the dataset.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What to plant with a limited budget

Grant,

Our place in southern Ohio has 6 acres of overgrown 6 yr old clover plots.  The soil is poor and currently has a pH of 6.0.  We cannot lime this year due to a limited budget.  What would you plant?

Thanks,

George

George,

Without the proper pH and fertilizer, no forage crop will perform well.  The first step is to determine your mission for the plots.  For example, is it to provide quality forage during the growing season or to serve as an attractant during the hunting season?  Second, what other crops are available in the neighborhood?  Are your plots the only source of quality forage in the neighborhood, or are there commercial ag fields nearby?  These and other factors should be considered.

I’d rather have three acres of forage that have been limed and fertilized appropriately than six acres that received limited treatments.  Healthy crops will produce more tons of forage and be more attractive to deer than unmanaged crops.  I suggest you determine your budget, and then determine the amount and type of crops to be produced.  There are very few shortcuts to producing healthy forage that deer find palatable.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Using “shelled” corn as seed

Grant,

Your videos are a much needed asset for land owners wanting to grow wildlife. Thanks so much.

I’m looking at planting corn this summer and I noticed a huge cost difference between “shelled corn” sold as deer/bird feed, compared to seed corn from the local seed supplier.  Is there any reason the “shelled corn” can’t be planted for a wildlife plot?

Walter

Walter,

Most corn varieties are registered and protected by law.  Therefore it is illegal to plant most sources of “shelled corn.”  In fact, it is illegal for farmers to save the seed they harvest and replant in most cases.

Another consideration is that there are many corn varieties that are selected for specific conditions such as average precipitation, length of growing season, etc.  You will have the best chance of producing a quality crop by planting a variety that was selected for the growing conditions in your area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What can I plant in a low pH food plot?

Dr. Woods,

Do you know of a particular food plot seed that would work well in soils with a low pH?  Using a pH meter I obtained a reading of 5.5.  The area is only 1000 square feet.  This little clearing in the woods gets about five hours of sunlight each day.  Because this spot is so remote and hard to get to, I would like to plant a perennial type planting.

Thank you for your response,

Ernie

Ernie,

I’m not aware of any quality forage crop that expresses its potential when grown in an area with a 5.5 pH.  However, 1,000 square feet is about 0.02 of an acre.  Hence, 50 pounds of lime applied to this plot would be the equivalent of applying a ton per acre.  I’d spread two 50 pound bags of high quality pelletized lime on the plots and not let the low pH be a limiting factor.

Perennial forages certainly require maintenance activities to continue to be productive.  These activities included annual fertilizer applications, weed control, etc.  In addition perennial forages all have a low or no production season.  That is to say, there will be a time when they are not providing forage or attracting deer.  One of the primary differences between perennial and annual forages is the need to replant the annuals.  Otherwise, both types of forage crops require maintenance to keep them productive.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Killing fescue to establish plots

Grant,

Thank you for speaking out on your belief in Jesus Christ.

I am limited to where I can plant food plots.  The places I have here in south central Tennessee are either rocky and covered in thick fescue or just thick fescue.  Is there a good way to kill the fescue to be able to plant a good food plot?

Thanks again for your program.

Wade

Wade,

It is extremely rocky where I live and any openings were covered with fescue when I started, so I understand your situation.  Besides being rough on equipment, exposed rocks usually indicate the local soil has very limited organic matter and won’t hold moisture very well.  This results in plots that are very susceptible to droughts.  I use composted litter and have been very pleased with the results and the amount of soil that has been established in my plots, as well as the antler growth that has occurred.

There are many methods to kill fescue.  I prefer to prepare good fire breaks and burn the fescue just before it greens up during the spring.  A slow moving backing fire will remove the dead plants, etc.  This will encourage a flush of new growth from the fescue.  When the new growth is 4-6” tall, I spray with two quarts of Glyphosate per acre mixed with ammonia sulfate and a surfactant.  I like a sprayer/nozzle combination that produces a small droplet size and that is calibrated to discharge about 15 gallons per acre.  In some cases, a second application of Glyphosate will be required, pending on the timing of the spraying, weather conditions, etc.

I then use a no-till drill or the broadcast technique to plant.  Disking will only serve to bring fescue and other weed seeds closer to the soil’s surface so they can germinate.   There are many programs that will work, but these steps have proven to work very well and are relatively inexpensive compared to other processes.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What works best in small Maine food plots?

Grant,

It was refreshing to hear your testimony of your love of our Lord and Savior.

This year I am attempting to put in 3 or 4 small food plots on 112 acres of land where I hunt.  I’m in the planning stage of what I will plant in this Maine climate.  I’m thinking of some clover blends, winter rye, and a couple other options.

I appreciate your videos and insights.  It is great to see what you are doing at the Proving Grounds.

Have a great Easter with others who love our risen Lord.

Al

Pastor, Canaan Calvary Church

Al,

Thanks for your comments!  If the soil in your plots is fairly good, and has a pH of 6.5 to 7.0, clover blends should work fine.  However, if the soil in your plots is sandy in nature, clovers may not work to well.  Some clovers are drought tolerant, but that doesn’t mean they produce forage during a drought.  It simply means they will likely survive a drought.  Clover requires adequate soil moisture to be actively growing and producing fresh forage.  The cooler temps in Maine favor many varieties of clover.  If the clover in your plots go dormant during the late summer, that’s a great time to broadcast some brassicas.   If the duff isn’t too thick, the brassicas will germinate with the next rain.  Most varieties of brassicas will provide tons of quality forage.  Then the clovers should provide a big flush of forage the next spring.

Remember that all forages are simply nutrient transfer agents.  If the nutrients aren’t in the soil, plants can’t transfer them to deer.  Lime and fertilize your plots based on a good soil analysis.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Topo maps

Grant,

Just one question: Where can I get a detailed, colored, topo map like you have for my property?

Thanks,

Robert

Robert,

My firm used to offer services to create such maps.  Now, much of the same can be created by using Google Earth or other free/relatively inexpensive services.  I really enjoyed being involved in custom mapping, but the cost was prohibitive once the on-line services became readily available and much improved.  It’s true that one of the only constants is change.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Soybeans in small plots

Dr. Woods,

I really enjoyed your last episode reviewing your food plot program.  I noticed after watching several of your videos, beans are an important part of your food plot system.  My family and I own a 115 acre farm in southern Ohio where we have 4 food plots ranging in size from 1/4 acre to 3/4 acre.  My smaller plots are in clovers and my larger plots are in annuals (winter rye/clover and brassicas). I rotate the annuals each year taking advantage of the nitrogen from the clover.  I have always wanted to plant soybeans, but I am afraid my plots are too small due to the high deer densities we have (30-50 deer per sq. mi).  Have you heard of anyone successfully planting soybeans with another crop like cereal grains or brassicas?  I’m afraid if I plant SB alone, the deer will wipe them out in a matter of days.  Do you have any suggestions or should I stick to the rotation I am doing now due to the limited size of my plots?

Thanks for all you do!

Darron

Darron,

I’m a huge believer in the old adage, “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it.”  It sounds as if you have a great program in place!  Like you, I’d have some concerns about planting forage soybeans in plots less than an acre in size given the deer density you describe.    Soybeans don’t produce well when planted with competition, so I’d probably stick with the blends you are using.  As an alternative, you might try fencing a plot (http://www.gallagherusa.com/) to allow the soybeans to become established before exposing them to browse pressure.  This has worked well in similar situations.   Another variable is the amount of forage available in your neighborhood.  Are your neighbors producing row crops or are they all timber?  The amount of quality forage in the neighborhood will have an impact on your decisions.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Project X research project

Hello there friend!

I was just curious if you were still involved in the management of the power company property in South Carolina.  If you still are, are there any research papers one could find to peruse?

Hope this finds you well, and we really like the new format of http://www.GrowingDeer.tv!

God Bless,

Edwin

Edwin,

That 11 year long research project ended a few years ago.  It was a fabulous learning project!!  We summarized the findings and published them in a few magazines, presented at some science meetings and public seminars, etc.  In addition, I published portions of that 11 year research project in the book Deer Management 101. Some of the deer management concepts we tested, learned, and/or tweaked during that project are now the basis for many deer management programs.

Thanks for the kind comments and enjoy Easter!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Food plots limited to ridges and valleys

Grant,

Another great episode this week (regarding food plots).  I noticed on the map of your property you seem to have all your plots either on ridge tops or drainages but not on hill sides at all.  Is this primarily from an erosion and access standpoint or are you taking into consideration deer movement in this arrangement as well?

Thanks,

Eric

Eric,

Thank you for your kind words!  The topography at The Proving Grounds is so steep that ridge tops and valleys provide the only sites level enough that tractors, etc., won’t turn over (we’ve been to the hospital twice when an ATV turned over while simply trying to spray food plots  – but thankfully no serious injuries).  In addition, wind currents, thermals, etc., limit the ability to effectively bow hunt the side slopes.  There is more than one reason we call this place The Proving Grounds – if it will work here, it will work almost anywhere!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What determines when bucks shed their antlers?

We own 230 acres in west central Mississippi.  This February we collected 9 sheds, all branched antlers.  I have heard you indicate that when bucks shed their antlers it is an indication of heard health.  Can you explain more on this subject?  This was our most productive year finding sheds.  The most we have found in the past was 3.  I love the info you give on this site, good luck with it.

Thank you,

Gary

Gary,

With exception for injuries or disease, the initiation of antler growth, shedding velvet and antler casting is determined by the length of daylight.  Changes in the length of daylight triggers a release of hormones by glands in a buck’s body.  However, changes in the amount of daylight determine a range of dates for antler shedding, and not exact dates.  Wounded or malnourished bucks tend to cast their antlers earlier while well-feed bucks that are not exposed to high levels of stress will cast later.  Captive deer, with relatively constant diets and stress levels tend to shed about the same time annually.  However, there can be a wide range of dates when free-ranging bucks shed their antlers based on the overall environmental conditions that year and the conditions of each individual buck.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Should corn and soybeans be planted together

I have a 6 acre field, 3 acres in clover and alfalfa. The other 3 acres I want to plant corn and Eagle Beans in.  Can I mix these two crops year after year on the same ground?  Beans being a legume will help feed the corn.  I just hate to turn my clover and alfalfa under until it starts to thin out.

Thank you,

Matt

Matt,

Corn and soybeans can be mixed, especially if they are both Roundup Ready varieties.  However more yield can be produced if the beans and corn are planted separately.  Without knowing the deer density/forage production ratio at your farm, it’s impossible to give an accurate recommendation of what to plant.  However, I’d rather plant two acres of forage soybeans and one acre of corn compared to 3 acres of beans and corn mixed.  This plan allows for each crop to be appropriately fertilized and planted at optimal times.  Corn should be planted when the soil temperature is 55 degrees and soybeans planted at 62 degrees.  I monitor the temperature at about 9 AM as this is typically when the soils will be coolest all day.

When the existing clover and alfalfa stands become weak, forage soybeans can be rotated in that portion of the field.  If you find that the combination of forage soybeans and corn provides more tonnage throughout the year compared to the current crops, it will be easy to rotate corn and soybeans throughout the six acres.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Adding wheat to existing crops

Thanks for making this site available to those of us striving to become better stewards of the land.

Here’s my situation.  I have 120 acres in northern Missouri.  Presently I have about 12 acres available for food plots.  I have 1 1/2 acres in clover and brassicas, 4 acres in alfalfa, and 4 acres in Eagle soybeans (which I really like).  I want to know if I can plant some wheat in one or all of the fields for the winter and spring.  If so, how do I do it without tearing up the existing fields?  Can I just broadcast it on top of the soil?  If not wheat, what else would you recommend?

Roy

Roy,

Winter wheat works well as a cool season forage crop.  It does a fine job of transferring nutrients from the soil (if they are available) to deer.  It’s also a relatively easy crop to grow.  Existing alfalfa crops don’t like competition.  I wouldn’t try to add wheat to an existing alfalfa stand unless you plan to eliminate the alfalfa and plant another crop the following spring.

Forage seeds need to make contact with the soil to become established.  Hence, if the clover is lush or has a thick duff layer, only a small portion of the wheat will reach the soil and be able to sprout.  If it’s a dry year and the clover is dormant, or the clover is mowed very close to the ground at least 45 days before the first average frost date, wheat can be drilled directly into the clover.  This is a fine technique and many counties or farm coops rent no-till drills.

Like you, I really like Eagle Seed forage beans!!   However, unless the deer have removed much of the bean’s canopy, they usually don’t drop their leaves in time for wheat seed that has been broadcast over the beans to germinate and grow before the first frost.  I usually have to mow some of my Eagle Seed forage beans so I can plant winter wheat.  If the plot is small and the local deer herd has browsed a significant portion of the beans at least 45 days before the first frost, it’s a great technique to simply broadcast wheat and fertilize directly over the beans.  In this situation, plant the wheat at a heavier rate than normal as some of the wheat seed won’t have good seed to soil contact.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Broomsedge grass

Was good to see you, if only briefly, at the SEDSG conference.  After seeing the website, we understand why you and Brad left early.  This show must go on!  CONGRATS!!

Simple softball question:  In the video intro, where the buck walks up and poses with his leg up, what is the name of the tall brown grass in front of him?  It is widespread in the Midwest, but I’m not sure what it is.  Have a great year.

Lennie

Lennie,

Great to see you again at the Southeast Deer Study Group conference!  All the beans you see in the GrowingDeer.tv episodes, except some in the episode filmed in Illinois, are the Eagle Seed forage beans we discussed.   I hope you will place a utilization cage on your plots this year so the growth of each forage type can be compared.

The lab I and several of my clients use is Waters Ag.  I order the Basic Test 4, as I like to know the level of several trace minerals.  I always tell the lab what crops I’m going to plant, and that I want a maximum yield so they can give me fertilizer recommendations to help me meet my site-specific mission.

The scientific name for the grass shown in front of that buck is Andropogon virginicus.  It is also know by several common names such as:  Broomgrass, Broomsage, Broomsedge bluestem, Broomstraw, Sage grass, and Yellow bluestem.

It is a native warm-season grass that is often confused with little bluestem.  However, in the fall/winter Broomsedge is typically yellowish tan, while little bluestem has a bronzy color.  Broomsedge rarely is more than 2 feet tall at maturity.  Seeds are light and fluffy.  It’s an indicator of poor land as dense stands are indicative of acid soils, phosphorus deficiency or overgrazing.  That pretty much describes The Proving Grounds, except where I’ve used Antler Dirt to improve the soil.

I hope our paths cross before the next annual Southeast Deer Study Conference!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Does composted chicken litter spread disease?

Dr. Woods,

I am curious about the Antler Dirt product that you use. I know it is made out of composted chicken litter but I have heard problems around here (south central Missouri) with the turkey population being affected by farmers using chicken litter on their fields. I don’t know if it’s a disease being spread from the chickens to the turkeys through the litter or if it’s just hearsay. I do have a few friends that did have large numbers of turkeys on their farms and after using chicken litter for several years have seen a huge decrease in the numbers. Any information you could share with me about this would be very helpful. I would like to try the Antler Dirt product, as I have very similar soils and topography compared to you. I just don’t want a negative effect on the turkeys. Thank you very much and I appreciate your Christian beliefs and sharing them on your show.

Derek

Derek,

There is a decline in the turkey population in most of Missouri (http://www.mdc.mo.gov/hunt/turkey/sprturk/). This is probably due in large part to the very cold and wet conditions that have occurred during the past two nesting seasons. I believe predators are also accounting for part of the decrease in the turkey population. I have trapped 200+ predators at The Proving Grounds during the past four years and my turkey population has increased significantly (at at time when it is declining in most of Missouri). I’ve also improved the habitat, so I can’t single out any one factor. However, it has been very cold and wet here also and the population at The Proving Grounds is the best its been since I’ve been here.

Disease being spread to wild turkeys by spreading poultry litter was more of a concern before most poultry farmers significantly improved their operations. There are literally millions of tons of litter spread annually now in many major turkey states with very, very few reported problems. However, that’s not to say there aren’t some poultry farmers out there that haven’t switched to the newer operating style.

Antler Dirt products have compost added to it and are put through a further heating process to kill any potentially dangerous bacteria. Simultaneously, good bacteria that builds soil is added. Antler Dirt is much different from raw litter. I’ve used Antler Dirt products exclusively at The Proving Grounds for five years and I’m very pleased with the results and my turkey population.

Growing Deer (and turkey) together,

Grant

Planting corn and soybeans together

Dr. Woods,

I’m asking this question for my husband. He and I both hunt. He hunts more, but I have the computer skills!

We own 75 acres in central Virginia. Last year we planted 10 acres of continuous soybean acreage for tax purposes. We are now required to plant these 10 continuous acres. But it is such a large area that we didn’t see many deer using the soybeans during daylight. This year, we want to try corn since we think it will provide food and cover…is this correct? We have a tractor and drill but not a corn planter. Can we use a drill? How many pounds per acre should we plant? Do we need to spray for weeds since it’s going to be for wildlife and we are not too worried about high production? And lastly, is it possible to mix soybeans with the corn or should we just plant the corn by itself?

Thanks and great videos, we watch each week!

Ami

Ami,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Are there other soybean fields in the area? I ask to determine if the local deer herd is conditioned to consuming soybeans. There are no other soybeans planted near The Proving Grounds. The deer living at my place, nor their deceased relatives, had ever seen a soybean to my knowledge. It took a couple of years for the deer to learn soybeans were a good source of forage here.

The group 7 forage soybeans from Eagle Seed usually get 4′ +/- tall, and provide cover till they get consumed or mowed. Corn provides better cover, but doesn’t provide any quality food during the antler and fawn development season. Therefore, it seems planting half the field in corn and half in soybeans would be a good option. I use a no-till drill to plant corn. I simply use cardboard and tape to block every other downspout. This allows me to open the seed meter wider on the remaining downspouts so the corn seed doesn’t get cracked (and therefore won’t germinate).

I used to commonly mix corn and soybeans in food plots. However, a better yield can be produced if they are planted and managed separately. I would strongly suggest controlling the weeds. The crop’s yield will be much higher, and there won’t be as many weed seeds in the field the following year!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Loquat trees in Alabama

Grant,

I am considering planting loquat trees on a deer hunting property in south Alabama along with a number of other hard and soft mast trees. I have searched for info on whitetail use of loquat trees or mast, but have found no such references. Do you know if whitetail deer and/or other game animals (turkey, squirrel, etc) will eat the loquat fruit?

Kenneth

Kenneth,

I’ve never planted or managed loquat trees. I’ve read about loquat trees in south Alabama producing fruit, but most literature I’ve read state they rarely produce fruit north of Jacksonville, Florida. I do believe deer and other critters will consume the fruit. If you plant some, please let me know how they do!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Job inquiry

Dr. Woods,

I am an Air Force Veteran that recently graduated from Missouri State University with a wildlife conservation and management degree. I currently live in Lebanon, Missouri and really enjoy living in the Ozarks. I know you know a lot of people in the outdoor industry and I was wondering if you happen to know anyone that is looking for a wildlife manager or technician? I realize you probably get tons of email inquires about jobs, but I figured it was worth a shot. It’s not easy to get connected to private individuals that are looking for these type of employees. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Byron

Byron,

Thank you for your service to our country!! I don’t currently know of any property manager’s positions. You are wise to continue staying in touch with folks in the industry. You might also consider attending events (such as the QDMA’s banquets, convention, etc.) to meet owners of properties managed for wildlife.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How to plant fruit trees

Hello again Grant,

You for sure have the best how-to-videos I have seen yet!!

With seedling planting season just around the corner, or here for most people, do you plan on putting up a video to show people the correct way, time, weed control and places to plant wildlife friendly seedlings? Also, I notice on a lot of forums that people are planting more apple orchards and a how-to-video for them would be greatly appreciated by a lot of people. You could show them how to plant, cage, protect and care for them since they are a labor of love.

I prefer a fall planting (for my area) from nurseries that will ship to me in the fall, but the MDC nursery only ships in spring.

Philip

Philip,

Thanks for the kind comments about GrowingDeer.tv! I literally film each week what I’m doing at the time. I don’t have a subject or production schedule. It’s simply what I’m working on at the time. With that said, I don’t plan to plant any trees for wildlife this spring. I believe Triangle Nursery will ship during the fall. You might check them out. The QDMA has published a few articles about establishing and maintaining fruit trees for wildlife. I found them very informative. I believe one of the articles was published last year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Cut cedars for cover?

Just found this site off of Midwest Whitetail. The first episode I watched was your segment over deer and land management. I have a question about your March 8th episode. My timber is mainly made up of hardwoods and red cedar. My cedar thickets are just like the ones on the video. I’m using this part of my farm as a sanctuary, but I know it needs improvements. Do you think clearing some of the cedars to let more sun in will work better than hinge cutting areas?

Mike

Mike,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Cutting and burning the cedar will usually let more sunlight reach the soil than hinge cutting, especially during the growing season. The bigger question is what will grow once the cedars are cut and burned.

I wait two years after cutting cedars to let the larger stems dry before burning to increase the amount consumed by fire. If the site was not historically tilled, there is probably a great variety of seed from native grasses and forbs that will germinate after the fire. However, if the cedars are growing where ag crops were produced, the resulting forage may or may not be desirable. If not, you’ll need to spray and replant to a desirable type of cover. Are there any desirable native forbs or grasses growing among the cedar currently? If so, removing the cedars and burning will most likely result in a great stand of native grasses and forbs. With a little scouting, you can probably determine what species will repopulate the area if the cedars are removed.

There was a GREAT response of desirable native vegetation that germinated at The Proving Grounds as the land was too steep and rocky to have been tilled historically.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Aging deer by using the lower jaw

First off, this is a great site with wonderful information. I love seeing folks that like to share their experiences, that’s what it’s all about. Keep up the great work Grant.

I was curious if you could add to your previous jawbone segment by showing the actual extraction process this fall on one of these episodes?

Thanks,

Andy

Andy,

Thank you for the encouraging words! I literally film whatever I’m working on each week. I age gads of deer using the tooth wear and replacement technique so that would be a likely subject this fall. Thanks for the suggestion!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Is it beneficial to let wheat mature?

I enjoyed your winter wheat segment and I had a few questions.

You didn’t mention the value of mature winter wheat (seed heads) to deer and other wildlife.  Any comments?

Is there a “spring” wheat equivalent that I can plant in an area for summer feeding where there is severe grazing pressure?

Andy

Andy,

Mature wheat grain has some nutritional value.  However, it is not as rich in most nutrients as corn or soybean grain.  Another consideration is the time between the forage stage of wheat and when the grain ripens.  During this stage, wheat is not palatable or very nutritious to deer.  This occurs when does are having/nursing fawns and bucks are producing antlers.  Most deer managers can’t afford to tie up food plot real estate during this time while waiting for wheat to mature to the grain stage.  Unless I plan to use the wheat grain for a dove field, I spray wheat during early spring and prepare the plot for a more desirable warm season forage crop.

There are usually much better forage options than wheat during the warm season, so I don’t plant spring wheat.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Size of The Proving Grounds

Hello Grant,

Out of curiosity, how many acres is The Proving Grounds?

Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this website.  It’s very helpful.

Scott

Scott,

Thanks for the kind words!  The Proving Grounds is 1,576 acres.  We own another 567 acres that is contiguous with our original purchase.  We don’t manage the 567 acre tract.  We purchased it literally to keep it from being developed.  We plan to sell it sometime in the future.  We’d rather have a good deer manager as a neighbor than 400 houses, dogs, etc.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Coyote Predation Study

Dr. Woods,

I wanted to let you know that I have just received a copy of your book “Deer Management 101” (actually, already autographed), and I really enjoyed reading it.  I just watched your video where you mention a study done by a grad student Cory Van Gilder.  I have tried to locate it, but haven’t had any luck.  I recently returned to college (after 12 yrs.) and I am finally a senior at OSU, studying under Stan Gehrt.  We have a lot of deer/coyote conversations (in and out of class), and I would like some more information about the research mentioned earlier.

As a side note, please check out http://www.americasfreedomlodge.org to see how we enjoy spending time with our veterans.  We love to get them in the woods!  We have approximately 490 acres we manage under QDMA guidelines.  However, we don’t place any restrictions on the veterans.  Last year I was able to guide a disabled father(Vietnam)/son(Iraq) team for their first ever deer hunts.  Both took deer with crossbows that day.  Words can’t describe how all parties involved felt.  Anyway, if you are ever up this way (central Ohio) PLEASE let us know…we would love to have you visit the lodge.

Thanks,

Shane

Shane,

Thanks for honoring our Vets!!  That’s a great mission!

A summary of Cory’s work was published in the Quality Deer Management Association’s Quality Whitetails magazine in the 3rd issue, June 2009 (pages 20-24).  It will also soon be published in a technical journal.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Preferred food plot shape

Dr. Woods,

I’ve always read and understood articles that state deer prefer long, winding lanes of food as opposed to large open areas of food plots.  Have there been any studies to back this up and is there an “ideal” width for a food plot lane?  I’ve always heard 15-30 yards, but was wondering if there is any data, other than personal observation to back this up.  Also, are there any particular food plot shapes such as the classic serpentine shape that might attract more deer and game to use the plot?

Thanks!

Eric

Eric,

I’m not aware of any published research that reports the shape of plots deer prefer.  Deer readily feed in large ag fields during daylight hours if there is minimal hunting pressure in the area.  Conversely, deer rarely are observed feeding in large openings in areas with a higher frequency of hunting pressure.  I believe managing hunting pressure is a better tool for observing deer during daylight hours than food plot shape.  Serpentine-shaped plots are great for stalking game, if the hunting pressure is kept to a minimum.  Ideally, deer can feed while being close to cover.  Narrow plots provide that for deer.  They also provide some advantages to hunters as narrow plots tend to channel the wind and reduce the swirling and wind eddy’s usually associated with larger openings.  This alone is a huge advantage for hunters.  Narrow plots will be the subject of an upcoming episode of GrowingDeer.tv — so stay tuned!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How to plant clover

I have tried to plant clover in the past and haven’t had the best luck.  My first big problem is the seed is so small.  Any advice on planting clover, or any other plant that would be just as good?

Kevin

Kevin,

There are several options depending on the planting method being used.  If you are using the broadcast method, sand can be mixed with the clover seed to serve as a filler so a larger volume can be broadcast.  As to your question about crop selection, the crop selected should be picked for the mission it is to serve.  There are perennials, annuals, browse tolerant, extremely palatable, etc.  It is important to match the crop with the mission of the plot!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Broadcasting soybeans and corn

I love your site!  I hunt about a 60 acre woods that has a 2 acre opening that I would like to plant.  I can’t get farm equipment to the field, so I would like to know if I could broadcast corn and soybeans?

Thanks for a GREAT SITE!

Earvin

Earvin,

Thanks for the kind words!  Soybeans and corn can be successfully planted using the broadcast method.  However, the seed must have good contact with the soil.  Ideally, each seed is covered by soil.  This can be accomplished by using a drag, etc.  When using the broadcast method to plant large-sized seed, it is critical to have a good seedbed prepared (bare dirt — no duff) and the ability to pack the seed into the soil.  When using this technique, it’s usually necessary to plant at least 1/3 more seed per acre than recommended as some seed won’t be covered by soil, and will be consumed by birds, etc.  In addition, planting just before a rain increases the success of this technique as the raindrops will splash soil on to the seed.  Small-sized seed like clover, etc., is usually a better option if broadcasting is the only method that can be used to plant.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Brassicas and crop rotations

Crop rotation is an important and proven technique, so this isn’t an attempt to question the practice or its benefits.  However, it’s often said that planting brassicas more than two years in a row can result in disease and a multiple year recovery problem.  Crop rotation is a wise practice, but can be difficult for someone who has limited acreage for plots, and brassicas as a preferred crop. Have you ever seen or heard of a disease problem in a food plot situation due to planting brassica 3 or 4 years in a row in the same plot?   Would a summer rotation of a legume potentially reduce the risk?

Thanks,

Phil

Phil,

I don’t know of any research that addresses your specific question.  I have observed brassicas planted in the same plot for multiple years with no obvious problem.  However, the soil in these plots were analyzed annually and soil nutrients added based on the recommendations.   In addition a legume, such as soybeans, was grown in the plots each summer.

All plots where the forage is consumed and removed frequently must have soil nutrients added to maintain the health of future crops.  Natural processes won’t replenish the nutrients as rapidly as they are removed by critters consuming the crop.  To safeguard against depleting the soil of nutrients, it is best to have the soil in such plots analyzed annually.  When having the soil’s nutrient availability analyzed, I strongly recommend testing for several micro nutrients in addition to nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K).  Micro nutrients can be just as much of a limiting factor as N, P, and K, but are often over looked in food plots.  Maintaining adequate levels of micronutrients is a critical step toward producing healthy crops.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Preferred size and shape of food plots

What shape and size is your favorite for food plots?  I have tended to make the plots too big (for bowhunting) and I was thinking of doing a 20-30 yard wide, winding food plot that would probably be 1/4 mile or longer in length.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Cory

Cory,

I forgot to answer the above portion of your question.  Sorry!  I like long, skinny plots as they tend to channel the wind and make controlling/predicting where a hunter’s scent flows easier!!  In addition, deer like feeding in areas that are close to cover.  However, deer can be out of bow range in such designs.  No matter what the shape and size of plot, a larger factor that determines the amount of use by deer during daylight is the amount of hunting pressure at or near the plot.  Figuring hunting pressure into the equation is a highly overlooked part of food plot design.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Trail cameras for turkeys

Dear Dr. Woods,

I found your website thanks to QDMA and thoroughly enjoy it!  Also, I met you at the Cabela’s seminar last fall.  I have 3 questions:

  1. I noticed that although you placed your scouting camera high, it appears that it’s facing an east/west direction.  If I do that with my camera I get lots of pictures of the sun rising/setting.  Shouldn’t you have it facing a north/south direction?
  2. What do you do differently when placing a camera to scout for deer vs. scouting for turkeys?
  3. What was planted in the food plot where all the turkeys came in?

Thanks for your time.

Sincerely,

Robert

Landowner

Robert,

I always place my Reconyx trail cameras facing in a generally north position.  I think I turned the one in that episode east so the shadows wouldn’t mess up filming.   You are correct and very observant!

The biggest difference between how I use trail cameras for deer and turkey is that I rarely place the units for deer where I expect to hunt as I don’t wish to disturb that area with scent, noise, etc.  Rather, I place the cameras in larger feeding food plots, etc.  The data collected at areas that are primarily used at night allow me to figure out where deer are moving during daylight hours.  However, I commonly place my cameras where I expect to hunt for turkeys because they have a very limited sense of smell.  I also almost always use the time lapse feature to scout an entire field or opening for turkeys.

I believe you are referring to a plot planted with a mix of winter wheat and clover.  Turkeys like low growing crops to consume the forage and insects.  Turkeys don’t like thick, tall forage, except for nesting.

I hope our paths cross again this year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Maximizing clover yields

Grant,

We use a great deal of white & red clover in our food plots.  They average about 2 to 3 acres.  The deer seem to feed heavily on these plots.  What can I do to supplement the clover without destroying it?  Also, how can I get more yield out of the clover?

Bruce

Bruce,

Maximizing clover yields can be accomplished by ensuring the crops have plenty of nutrients and eliminating competition (weeds).

The best method to insure clover is well fed is to have the plot’s soil analyzed annually to see what nutrients should be added.  Remember that forage crops are simply nutrient transfer agents.  They take nutrients from the soil and air and convert them to a form deer can digest.  If the nutrients aren’t present, they can’t be transferred to deer.  Deer consume the forage, and therefore remove nutrients annually.  Unless they are replaced, the crop will be malnourished.  Maximizing nutrient transfer requires very healthy forage crops.

I use Waters Ag to analyze the soil from my plots.  I request they provide a maximum yield recommendation.  Most folks don’t realize there are multiple recommendations soil labs can give.  Since acreage for food plots is usually limited, I need each acre to produce at the maximum yield.  Most labs give ag field recommendations (or optimum economic return recommendations).  They are giving a recommendation for a level of fertilizer that limits cost (and yield) in an effort to find a balance that maximizes profit.  I need max yield from my plots, since it is less expensive to add more fertilizer than to establish more plots.

It’s also critical to insure the limiting factors such as sun, soil moisture, and soil nutrients are available to the desired crop.  This means weeds must be controlled as they are direct competition to forage crops.  Weeds are tougher to control in clover than some other forage crops.  However, there are grass-specific herbicides that can be sprayed over clover, and mowing does an OK job of keeping most broad leaf weeds under control.

Clover can be a good tool in the food plot manager’s bag.  However, it must be fed and managed to remain healthy and productive.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Road maintenance in hilly topography

Grant,

First off, great job on your site!  This is very good stuff.  Now onto the deer management side, I’ve got a 360 acre piece in western KY and it is HILLY.  I’d love to see you do a piece on road construction to avoid erosion.  Our initial dozer work was needed to get into the property, but in hindsight it would’ve been much better to hire “smart” dozer operators who understood road building.  We’ve brought in many, many trucks of gravel on main segments, but nonetheless we’ve got lots of erosion and I’m headed out with a team of 15 guys in a few months to repair (and hopefully fix) the roads correctly for the long term.  I’d love to see you do a piece on this.

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for the kind words!!  We just filmed a brief segment about road maintenance to be shown on the Pursuit Channel.  I don’t know when that will air.  I hope to do a more detailed segment on road construction and maintenance on GrowingDeer.tv.  However, every episode of GrowingDeer.tv is literally what we are doing that week.  It will be summer before we do any road maintenance at The Proving Grounds.  In the meantime, I suggest you learn about broad-based dips.  They are my favorite road maintenance tool in hilly topography!  Ditches, and other common road maintenance designs, rarely work as planned unless maintenance is very frequent.  This is because ditches become clogged with debris and force the water over the road, causing erosion.  The best road maintenance plan is to limit the amount of water and the speed at which water passes over dirt/gravel roads.  Water control is outstanding road maintenance.

Growing Deer (and managing properties) together,

Grant

Where are you scheduled to speak?

Hey Grant,

I just wanted to say that I have just discovered your GrowingDeer.tv website and I love it!! I have watched all of the videos in your archive and very impatiently wait on your new one every week. I know a few people in the outdoor and hunting industry and have listened to quite a few different biologists do seminars and you are by far my favorite. Is there anywhere that I can access a list of where you are scheduled to speak?

Thanks,

David

David,

Thank you for the kind words!!  I’ll try to begin posting dates of some of my speaking engagements in the blog section of GrowingDeer.tv.  I’ll be speaking at Swedesborg, MO April 16th, 2010.  In addition, I will be speaking at QDMA’s national convention in July (www.QDMA.com) and a major conference about land and wildlife management in Nashville during mid-August.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do barrier systems to protect crops work?

Grant,

First, thanks for your great videos and teaching us how to better grow our deer.  You mention using a utilization cage to monitor uninhibited growth in food plots, but have you ever tried to keep deer out of the plots (1-3 acres in size) to allow greater plot growth for a month or so?  I’ve seen products like “Plot Saver” Deer Barrier System but I’m curious to know if you’ve tried that or any other system and what your results have been.

Thanks,

Jason

Jason,

I haven’t personally used barrier systems to exclude deer from entire plots.  However, some of my clients have used different systems with varying success.  With most systems that did exclude deer from the crop, the success appeared to be correlated with installing the exclusion system before deer learned there was a desired food source within the protected area.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Food Plot Shapes and Sizes

I have about 100 acres of hardwoods (mature white oaks) on the very southern end of my property.  My property butts up to another large parcel of timber.  There are lots of ironwoods and scattered honey locust trees and other junk trees throughout.  If I were to take out all the trees but the white oaks there would be enough sunlight for rye, oats, peas, red clover, etc.

What shape and size is your favorite for food plots?  I tend to make the plots too big (for bowhunting) and I was thinking of doing a 20-30 yard wide winding food plot that would probably be 1/4 mile or longer in length.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Cory

Cory,

Most clover varieties will grow if they receive at least 1/2 day sunlight or more.  Crops grown in partial shade are usually not as productive as if they were grown in full sunlight.  During droughts, or crops planted on dry sites, partial shade during the afternoon hours (time of day when most soil moisture evaporation occurs) can be beneficial.  When designing plots in areas with shade use a north-south orientation on sites that tend to be dry.  This orientation will provide the most shade and limit the amount of soil moisture that evaporates.  On sites that tend to hold to much soil moisture, an east west orientation is better as this will allow more soil moisture to be evaporated from the plot.

Another consideration is the amount of leaves that will fall on the forage when planted among trees.  Leaves can shade out the forage if not removed from the plot.

At your site, if the non-oak trees are harvested be sure you address the soil compaction that results from the timber harvesting.  Soil compaction is a huge limiting factor to forage growth!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Toxic Brassicas?

I had you come out to our farm in New York three years ago.  Since then I have moved to a new farm.  I had a lot of success planting BioMaxx in our newly cleared fields and I followed-up the next year with brassicas.  Would you suggest the same schedule with a non-high fenced piece of property?  We have a great limestone supply on site so soil is not the issue.  The issue is this new “toxic” problem with brassica.

Nick

Nick,

Good to hear from you!  Corn and soybeans are great sources of energy and protein for deer.  I’ve switched to planting them separately rather than blended as they can be managed and produce more yield that way.  I assume your comment about limestone means you have access to ag lime.  The Ozark Mountains, where I live, are limestone mountains.  However, the local native pH averages about 5.6.  Remember that pH is on a logarithmic scale — the difference between 5.6 and 6.6 is 10 fold.  It is always best to have the soil analyzed and add lime and fertilizer per the recommendations based on a site-specific current soil test.

I’ve heard there are some advertisements about brassicas being toxic.  This is very unfortunate.  Brassicas are a primary forage for the HUGE captive deer industry in New Zealand.  I’ve toured those farms and visited with New Zealand researchers.  I’m not aware of any toxicity problems with Brassicas.  Furthermore, deer have consumed millions of pounds of brassicas in the states and I’m not aware of a single reported toxicity case.  Any plant can be toxic if that is the only plant consumed.  Deer are very selective feeders, especially wild deer.  I rate brassica toxicity a ZERO concern for wild, free-ranging deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What forage grows well on sandy Georgia soils?

I deer hunt in sandy southeast Georgia (Waynesboro).  What are some good spring time food plots that would work for our very warm springs and long hot summers?  Rain is infrequent that time of year in this part of the country.  Thanks for your time.  This is a great site you have.

Thanks again and happy hunting,

Paul

Paul,

I do a lot of work in Georgia and know the Waynesboro area well.  I’ve had good success with Eagle Seed Forage soybeans in that area (and further south in Georgia).  My best success on sandy sites has occurred when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.0 and I’ve used composted poultry litter for fertilizer.  Composted litter can hold a huge amount of moisture.  It also helps raise the pH so not as much lime is needed.  In addition, soils with a pH in the 6.5 to 7.0 range will hold more moisture than more acidic soil.  This is a huge help against drought stress.

I plant the forage soybeans when the soil temperature is at 62 degrees.  When determining soil temperature, aim for the coolest time of the day (9 AM).  Soil temperature thermometers are available at most good farm stores.  The temperature of the soil should be monitored at the depth the seed is to be planted.  In addition, the http://www.georgiaweather.net/ website lists soil temperatures throughout Georgia — a great tool!!  If beans are planted when the soil is cooler, they will be much slower to germinate and grow, and can become easily stressed.  If they are planted when the soil is much warmer, the seedlings can become stressed and very susceptible to drought.

Clover rarely is very productive on sites with sandy soils during the summer.  Forage soybeans usually provide much more tonnage and are more drought resistant.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Reaction Time of Lime

Does liming during fall planting help at all for that winter?

Derek

Derek,

The reaction time of lime is related to the particle size.  The size of lime particles is measured by a sieve.  A size 100 sieve has 100 holes per square inch.  A size 60 sieve has 60 holes per square inch, etc.  Most states require agricultural lime to be ground small enough that 60% of the lime passes through a size 60 sieve.  Specialty lime can be purchased that is ground to a smaller size.  The smaller the size of the lime particles, the faster the lime reacts in with the soil to change the pH.  However, the smaller the size of the lime particles the shorter the period of time the pH will be changed as all the lime will react rapidly with the soil and other elements will begin reacting to make the soil more acidic again.

So, if you apply standard ag lime during the fall there will most likely be minimal improvement to the soil’s pH during the first few months.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the best way to build soil productivity?

I just found your site, and I am very impressed!  I was wondering if at some point you could discuss the best ways for building soil productivity, in particular using natural means such as fire, tilling in dormant growth, natural fertilizers, etc.

David

David,

Thanks for the kind words!   Fire is a great tool, but the primary goal of most prescribed fire is not to build soil.  Rather, it is to limit the growth of some plant species and encourage the growth of others.  Tilling in vegetation can be a good practice.  However, tilling in general isn’t beneficial to soil.  It often causes compaction just below the level of tillage from the pressure/weight of the equipment.  Tilling also exposes the soil and encourages evaporation of existing soil moisture.  This is why using a no-till drill is considered a great conservation tool.  In fact, we never disk, plow, etc., at The Proving Grounds — we only plant with a no-till drill.

We also use an organic fertilizer.  It is made by composting and adding humus bacteria (and other microbes and trace minerals) to poultry litter.  The producers I get this product from have named it Antler Dirt.  I agree — as it has been a great tool to allow my once nutrient poor soils to produce great crops (and deer).  I have the soil analyzed annually in each plot at The Proving Grounds and have noticed a significant increase in the organic matter (both as reported on the soil analyses, the feel of the soil, and the quality and quantity of crops produced).  I’ve used the recipe of using a no-till drill and organic fertilizer from South Carolina to Missouri and have been very pleased with the results (and antlers).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the best plan for food plots in northeast Florida?

I have a 2100 acre lease in northeast Florida.  Our club wants to plant food plots this year, but I get so much conflicting information about what and when to plant.  My fear is not doing it right and wasting our precious dollars, time and effort.  What is the best “plan” for food plots?  The reading and research I’ve done suggests about 10% of our acreage should be planted.  That’s a lot of land for a poor man’s hunt club.  Can you help?  Any information would be helpful and most appreciated!

Bill

Bill,

Food plots crops, establishment techniques, etc., are like planes.  There are a lot of different models and each is designed for a different mission.  So, the first step is to define the mission based on the realistic resources (funding and time) available.  For example, a plan to clearcut, destump, and establish food plots on 10% of a 2,100 acre lease (210 acres) may be a good plan, but might not be realistic.  What to plant is also based on goal of your mission.  If your mission is to simply attract deer for observation/harvest, then fall food plots might be a tool to help complete the mission.  If the mission is to improve the herd’s health, then warm season food plots are probably necessary to successfully meet the objectives.  The percentage of total hunting area that should be converted to food plots is extremely variable.  This is based on the mission and the local deer herd density.  There’s a huge difference in the amount of quality forage necessary to allow a herd to express its full potential if the herd density is 20 compared to 50 deer per square mile.  The quantity of quality native vegetation is also a huge factor to consider.  If a property is totally composed of mature, unthinned pines, then food plots are necessary to provide almost all of the quality forage necessary to allow a deer herd to express its potential.  However, if the property has a significant component of quality native vegetation, that will supply a portion of the herd’s nutritional needs.

No matter what the food plot mission, I always…

  1. Collect soil samples and have them analyzed to see how much lime and fertilizer should be added to produce the maximum yield crop.
  2. I only establish as many acres of plots as I can afford to lime and fertilize appropriately.  More yield can be produced from half the acreage if the soil nutrients are available compared to planting on sites with suboptimal levels of soil nutrients available.
  3. Place a utilization cage in every plot.  A utilization cage is a simple exclosure usually constructed from web wire (4′ tall by 10′ long to make a 3′ diameter exclosure).  The goal is to exclude deer from consuming the forage within the exclosure so an accurate comparison can be made at a glance to the quantity of forage produced inside the cage to outside where the deer are browsing.  The bigger the difference in height between the inside and outside of the exclosure, the greater the need for reducing the herd density, adding more acres of plots, or both actions simultaneously.

Finally, realize that all farming activities are risky.  Crops fail with the best of equipment and on the best soils.  Food plots are even more likely to fail.  However, without risk, there is no chance of reward.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the impact of free-ranging dogs on a deer herd?

Dear Grant,

Thanks for having a great site for hard core deer managers.  I especially enjoyed seeing you and your Dad hunt together!  It brought back many fond memories of hunts with my Dad and Grandfather.

On the family farm that we hunt, we have a problem with free running pet dogs.  How much of an impact do these dogs have on our deer herd? I have seen and heard 2 beagle size dogs run across the 250 acre farm howling all the way.  The farm is in southeast Iowa and 50/50 timber and CRP.  We planted 40 acres of NWSG 2 years ago for cover and it is 6 feet tall.  We also planted 7 acres of alfalfa, 4 acres of clover, and 8 acres of RR soy beans.  Attempts to find the owners of these dogs have been futile.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

I really enjoy hunting with my father.  In fact, he joined me last weekend to look for sheds!  I hope I’m physically able and have the desire to walk that much when I’m 79 years old!

The habitat at your family farm sounds great!  It’s sad when a family makes the level of commitment yours obviously has to improve wildlife habitat and then have recreational experiences damaged by free-ranging dogs owned by irresponsible owners.  Not only can free-ranging dogs spoil hunting experiences, they harass and kill wildlife!!  Sadly enough, such dogs are protected in some states.  Where they are not protected, it seems dogs that roam shouldn’t go home.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Should I supplemental feed the deer protein to make up for the lack of food plots?

I am a member of a 6200 acre hunting club in northeast Louisiana.  We kill some very nice deer and have a wonderful turkey population.  The club is a timber operation that hinders our management at times of the year.  We have limited amount of acreage for food plots and can’t plant any spring plots for the deer because of restrictions for nesting turkeys.  Should I supplemental feed the deer protein to make up for the lack of food plots?  Our club has 13 members for 6200 acres and each member controls a block of his own land (around 300 acres) and we also have areas anyone can hunt.  All total we have around 70 acres of food plots (which isn’t enough).  I recently put out 4 mineral sites of antler max in my area and wanted to feed protein to make up for the lack of food plot acreage.  Any help would be great!

Thanks,

Lee

Lee,

Supplemental feeding can improve the average body weight, fawn production, and antler size of deer.  However, there are also potential negative ramifications of feeding.  In humid/wet areas bacteria and mold grows freely on most forms of feed.  Some of these micro organisms can be very harmful to deer, turkey, and other forms of wildlife.  There is always the possibility of a deer being sick and passing on that sickness to other deer through direct contact, saliva, etc., at feeders.  Predators learn to hunt feeders, and non target critters, like raccoons, can literally remove more feed than the deer herd.  Simply stated, a good feeding program requires a huge amount of effort and expense.

The potential of such problems can be reduced by literally cleaning feeders and moving them frequently, etc.  However, I rarely see clubs go to the huge effort necessary to tend feeders correctly.  Where possible, it is safer and less expensive to grow crops rather than pay someone else to grow, harvest, process, bag, and ship the crops and then you tend the feeders.  With this said, there are several very successful feeding programs throughout the whitetails range.  Before starting a feeding program, you should carefully consider all the ramifications so you can make a decision based on accurate information.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the best late winter protein crop?

Dear Grant,

First off, I would like to thank you for answering my question in the past.  I really love your site and information.  On our farm we plant corn, soybeans, rye, wheat, and oats for the deer.  The problem is I would like to have something high in protein for the months of March and April.  I can’t seem to get clover started well and you can’t seem to spray chicory with many chemicals for weeds.  Any thoughts on that would be wonderful.  Do you think something like plotsaver would help the clover get started or should I just try something else?

Kevin

Kevin,

Clover rarely puts on much volume from existing stands in early March at The Proving Grounds (Branson, MO for a latitude comparison).  New stands have zero production at this time.  Clover, like all growing forage, requires a certain amount of heat to germinate or grow.  Clover is best suited to provide quality forage during the spring and late fall (if there is adequate soil moisture).  Standing grains provide great food for wildlife during the late winter months.  You stated you planted corn and soybeans.  These are two great crops for your mission.  Corn grain provides a great source of energy and relatively low amounts of protein.  Standing soybean grain provides very high quality protein and suitable quantities of quality energy.  Remember that forage soybeans provide super high quality forage during the growing season and grain during the winter months (if the plot is big enough it is not over browsed).  If you can leave enough corn and soybeans standing so the local herd has plenty to eat through the late winter, your forage management plan would be outstanding!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

When is doe harvesting too much?

When is doe harvesting too much?  We have harvested 1005 deer in the last 5 years.  Of which, 123 are mature bucks (3.5+) and 70 are button bucks.  It is now hard to see does and many, many times we see nothing but bucks on our cameras and hunting outings.  We try not to shoot immature bucks by having antler restrictions, etc.  The properties range from 180 acres to small 10 acre plots all in the same township, about 3000 acres of total huntable property and most of the plots are under 80 acres.

Cliff

Cliff,

Doe harvest should be conducted for two reasons.  This includes reducing the herd’s density to match the habitat’s capacity to produce quality forage (fewer mouths competing for the available forage).  The second primary reason is to balance the adult sex ratio.  There are other reasons such as crop damage, etc., to reduce a herd’s density.  Those are political reasons — I’m only addressing biological reasons.

Since I have no idea of how many deer are in your area, I can only recommend you set your doe harvest goals based on the quality of the habitat you desire to maintain.  If you desire the local herd to express its full potential, then the herd density must be low enough to allow the habitat to produce enough quality browse so that each deer has all the nutritious forage they wish to consume.

Bottom line, I establish doe harvest objectives by the goals of the landowner, and the habitat quality/herd density relationship.  This relationship is way more important than simply considering the number of deer per square mile (or any other density measure that is not based on available forage).

Does become conditioned to being hunted, and can become extremely wary and nocturnal.  Deer observations are an important part of hunter satisfaction, and should be considered when designing any deer harvest quota.  However, deer observations by themselves are rarely a good indicator of herd or habitat health.  The health of the habitat is the true indicator of a herd’s potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Improving the limiting factor

Dr. Woods,

Corn and some switchgrasses, such as Cave in Rock SG, both grow upwards of 6 feet and both provide cover.  I have the resources to plant corn and SG.  There are many factors that appeal to me about planting corn in that it is a great attractant for deer hunting.

I already have 5% in food plots on my 100 acre property which consists of a yearly planting of 3 acres of corn/soybean mix (in the form of 1 large destination plot) and 2 acres of clover and small grains (in the form of 4 smaller attraction plots).  I’m not surrounded by ag crops and am mostly surrounded by cover.  To my knowledge, I am the only one in my area within 1,000 acres planting food plots.

I have the option this year to plant an additional 5 acres of corn/soybean mix or seed Cave In Rock switchgrass.  I’m having a tough time deciding which to plant.  On one hand I feel the corn provides cover and food and on the other hand I feel SG might provide consistent cover (but no food).  The area I’m considering is on a power line easement that currently is only small shrubby growth that doesn’t seem to provide much cover or food.  Any recommendations on which route to take (I know you can only do so much without seeing a property)?  Keep up the nice work!

David

David,

Corn does provide cover during several months of the year.  The grain is also a great source of energy for deer and many other forms of wildlife.  However, corn planted at the same location for repeated years often suffers from loss of micro nutrients and pests frequently build to damaging levels.  Crop rotation, along with annual soil analysis and adding the appropriate fertilizer, is necessary to keep any ag fields productive.

However, your statements that “The area I’m considering is on a power line easement…” and “…am mostly surrounded by cover…” bias me toward recommending you develop that area into food (corn/forage soybean rotation would be great) rather than permanent cover.  Based on your statements, I assume cover is not a limiting factor in your neighborhood.  In addition, critters using narrow strips of cover are very susceptible to predation.  Predators can easily hunt the downwind side of narrow patches of cover and smell prey species within those areas.

When I was in grad school (many years ago), it became a common practice to leave narrow strips of timber unharvested along small streams as a buffer for erosion, shade for the stream, etc.  Providing cover was also touted as a huge benefit of these streamside management zones (SMZ’s). Researchers that had placed telemetry colors on turkeys and other game species began noticing a very high rate of predation in the SMZ’s.  Predators rapidly adapted to hunting these narrow strips of cover.  Even though the SMZ’s provided high quality cover, it also concentrated the critters, making them a target rich environment for predators.

This and other research along with experience has taught me to make cover areas as large as practical for the area.  I avoid designing long, skinny cover blocks that serve to attract prey and predators.  In addition I always try to add to the limiting factor — which seems to be quality forage in your neighborhood.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Will hogs hurt a deer herd?

Hi Grant,

Over the last years hogs have moved in on us. Will this hurt our deer?

Mark

Mark,

I enjoy hunting hogs like many other folks, as long as I have to travel a long, long, long way from my property to find them. Hogs are a challenging game species to hunt but are very detrimental to the goals of most deer management programs. They readily consume and destroy habitat and hard earned food plot acreage. They can also negatively impact turkey populations as they frequently destroy nests. They will certainly consume young fawns if they find them. If a hog stepped foot on The Proving Grounds and I knew about it, I’d be racing out the door to dispatch it. This is because once established, hogs are difficult, if not impossible, to completely eradicate. If hogs are already present I would work hard at removing them in any way possible. The most effective removal methods is trapping. I’m not aware of any instance where hogs have been eradicated by recreational hunting. To eradicate hogs requires a planned attack. No matter the methods chosen, hit them hard, fast, and early as they are quick to adapt and multiply rapidly.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Honeysuckle and fruit trees in Michigan

Grant,

I read an article that quoted you on your top ten deer forages in my NRA magazine and kept the article. You listed Japanese honeysuckle as #3. Where can I buy it at a reasonable price? Second, is Tatarian Honeysuckle or Halls Honeysuckle viable alternatives?

Third, lower on the list were Paw Paw & American Persimmon trees. Will they grow in Central Michigan in Zone 5? At one time Paw Paw Michigan had the tree but now all I find is the local high school unsuccessfully replanted a small grove in Paw Paw.

Richard

Richard,

I’m not familiar with the article you referenced. However, it’s often a year or more from the time of an interview till articles are published. I would not rate honeysuckle a top deer food among all deer foods! In locations with closed canopy forest, honeysuckle is often one of the few browse species available. It is also one of the few browse species available during late fall or winter. This may be because it was not preferred during the growing season, so it’s one of the few left to consume. Honeysuckle is a woody species. Therefore, it is not very digestible, and not loaded with nutrients. It does respond well to fertilizer, but so do other crops that are more productive and easier to establish. If honeysuckle is already in an area and deer are using it, it may make sense to fertilize and hunt it as an attractant. However, honeysuckle can be a very invasive species. I wouldn’t attempt to start it in areas where it doesn’t already exist.

Neither Paw Paw nor American Persimmon naturally occurs in any frequency far enough north to be prevalent in Central Michigan. Fruit trees can sometimes be established outside of their native range. However, extreme weather events will frequently limit their growth or kill them. It’s important to consider weather extremes (which will occur during the life of a tree) when selecting species to plant!

Growing Deer (and trees) together,

Grant

Does wheat need N, P, and K?

I was wondering, does wheat need N, P, and K or just P and K?  I’m using a 7 acre field to feed deer.  Great videos and great info on your website, keep up the good work.

Aaron

Aaron,

All forage plants are simply nutrient transfer agents.  That is to say they transfer nutrients from the soil and air to critters that consume the plants.  Of the three most prominent nutrients, nitrogen (N) is often the most deficient.  N is critical in building protein in critters.  Wheat is very sensitive to insufficient nitrogen and very responsive to nitrogen fertilization.  There are gads of recommendations for any crop.  However, given that food plot acreage is usually very limited, I use soil analysis labs that provide “max yield” recommendations.  This simply means they will recommend lime and fertilizer levels necessary to achieve the maximum yield.  By contrast, many labs recommend lime and fertilizer levels to provide maximum economic return.  This recommendation is based on limiting the cost of fertilizer so the overall net profit is higher.

Each site is unique — so I always recommend a soil test.  It’s the easiest and least expensive tool to establish and maintain great food plots!  The results of soil tests informs the manager of the amount of specific nutrients available in the soil, and how much should be added to produce the desired level of crop (in my case, I want maximum forage quality and quantity).  So, without the results of soil test, I (or anyone) can’t provide an accurate fertilizer recommendation.  Remember that your goal is for the plants to capture nutrients from the soil, and the deer to capture the nutrients from the crop you’ve produced.  Hopefully, deer are removing much of the nutrients you put on the field.  Hence, it’s critical to have the soil analyzed annually and add the appropriate amount of lime and fertilizer.  If you don’t follow these steps, it’s extremely likely your deer herd is not expressing its full potential.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What fertilizer formula should we use for clover?

Thanks to the QDMA I just discovered your site.  It is full of really good helpful info.  We are just getting into food plots on our hunting property in Georgia.  We planted radishes and clover together last year with fairly good results.  The clover now looks about like it does on your video.  We are hoping it comes on strong this spring. Should we fertilize to help it and if so what formula would you recommend?

Frank

Frank,

I’ve had clover stands last literally a decade!  It seems the three key factors to maintaining healthy, nutritious stands of clover are:

  1. Keep the plot’s ph between 6.5 and 7.0.
  2. Keep the phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) at moderate-to-high levels.
  3. Keep competing weeds (broadleaf and grass) controlled by spraying and mowing.
  4. Use a grass-specific herbicide to control most grasses and mowing to control broadleaf weeds before they produce seed.

Clover is a legume, so there is no need to add nitrogen as established stands produce more than they need.  However, clover uses a lot of P and K.  Furthermore, deer and other critters consume the forage, defecate outside of the plot (deer defecate 12-24 times a day on average!), and hence P and K are constantly being removed from the plot.  It must be replenished for the crop to remain healthy.  The only way to accurately know the soil’s pH and how much P and K to add is by collecting a soil sample and having it analyzed.  I use Water’s Lab as I’ve found their results are accurate and timely.  I usually receive the results via email within 24 hours of when Water’s receives my samples.  Sample collection and shipping instructions are on their site.  Don’t forget to tell the lab what crop you will be planting/maintaining as lime/fertilizer recommendations vary significantly by crop!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the best method to remove coyotes?

I am having trouble with coyotes and I was wondering what would be the best route to take to resolve this problem?

David

David,

The most efficient legal method to remove coyotes is trapping, especially just prior to and during fawning season.  Coyotes are difficult to catch, and seem to become conditioned to avoiding traps rapidly.  I made the mistake of trying some ineffective trapping techniques for coyotes the first year at The Proving Grounds.  I basically educated most of the local adult coyotes and made them trap shy.  Since then, I’ve been involved in some research projects where a professional trapper was used on properties that hadn’t been trapped for years.  The catch rate was very high as the local coyote population was naive about traps.  Hence, using a professional trapper is the best method to reduce local coyote populations.  Because coyotes are very mobile and disperse frequently, it is necessary to trap annually to keep the local coyote population in check.  Several research projects confirm that surrounding coyote populations will fill the void created by removing coyotes from a specific property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Differences between managing in Missouri & Vermont for winter cover

Grant,

Thanks so much for the videos! Each week I wait impatiently for them.  The video on winter cover was very informative.  However, it didn’t seem to be geared for northern managers.  Our deer herd here in Vermont and other northern states head to conifer forests to “yard up” during periods of deep snow depths and severe low temps to conserve energy.  Could you elaborate on the differences between a state like Missouri and Vermont regarding how they should be managed for winter cover?

Thank you,

George (Florence, Vermont)

George,

You’re correct!  Where the snow depths commonly get 2 feet or more deep, deer prefer dense stands of mature conifers.  “Yarding” occurs in these areas where deep snows make foraging very difficult and deer find it more energy efficient to simply migrate to stands of dense conifers and survive off stored fat.  This type of habitat prevents some of the snow from reaching the ground.  Obviously, if the timber stand is dense enough to prevent snow from reaching the ground, very limited forage can grow under the canopy, so yarding areas provide almost no forage unless the conifers are white cedar (mature white cedar swamps are almost a thing of the past).  Unfortunately, many of the traditional yarding areas have been converted to some other type of habitat in the northeast.  For wind protection and allowing solar radiant heat during the day, native grass stands are better.  For providing relief from deep snows, mature conifers are the preferred habitat type in the northeast and lake states.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do NWSG stands provide sufficient cover?

Grant,

In your episode on winter cover you show a lot of native warm season grass (NWSG) stands as good cover.  Do you find this is the best cover during hunting season or do the deer stick more to the higher low vertical growth provided by the 6-8 year old sapling stand you showed or thicker stuff?  It just seems that some NWSG stands are not as thick as a shrubby cover and don’t provide sufficient cover for deer to hide, especially during gun season.

David

David,

There are several species of NWSGs.  Little Blue Stem does provide low vertical growth while some of the varieties of Switchgrass commonly grow to a height of more than 7 feet!  I like a blend of low (0-2 feet), medium (2-4 feet) and high (4 or more feet) NWSG’s.  Blends are easy to plant.  However, I really prefer a patchwork of low, medium and high.  I find that deer and other critters seem to prefer this type of cover compared to a homogenous structure.  In addition, I can find a very high vantage point and see down into this type of patchwork cover.   This allows me to observe deer without being detected.  Such stands are like a front row seat at the Super Bowl, except I like the entertainment a lot better!!

Based on my observations, sign, etc., deer prefer this type of cover (NWSG with varied height and density) more than any other type of cover.  However, deer will use many forms of cover — whatever is best within their range.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Will hinge cutting create bedding areas and increase forage?

Grant,

I’m interested in information about TSI.  You may remember when you visited my property that aesthetics (from the “park effect” closed hardwood canopy) were important to me around the perimeter roads.  There are several large interior blocks of mixed hardwoods (approx. 50 yrs old) that I intend to take a chainsaw to after we burn it in a week or two.  My primary goal is to create bedding areas and secondary is increased forage.  I’ll leave the best mast producing trees alone, but for the others, would you hinge cut or completely cut them down and leave them?  If hinge cutting is done, would you cut them about shoulder height or down lower?

Thanks,

Jim

Jim,

Hinge-cutting is a fine management tool.  There are several websites with detailed instructions about how to do a hinge-cut.  I’ll let you find those.  In the mean time, I’m not sure it is the best management tool to meet your specific objectives.  Hinge cutting places the tops of trees at ground level.  This provides some cover and food.  The food source will be low in digestibility and nutrition (hardwood twigs don’t normally compare favorable to fertilized forage crops).

I recall your management objectives included allowing the local herd to express a high percentage of their potential and create a habitat that allows you to pattern/predict locations of deer activity.  Hinge cutting can create some good growing season cover, but is somewhat limited in producing winter cover.  Once the leaves fall, only the stems are left to provide cover.  As the stems continue to grow, the canopy (cover) will be above the 0-4 foot level where deer live within a few years.  In addition, the canopy will shade out most vegetation growing at the 0-4′ level.  Large blocks of hinge-cut cover are not much different from the sapling cover discussed in the March 8th episode of GrowingDeer.tv.  These characteristics can be somewhat offset by doing additional hinge-cuts every few years, but this is costly and doesn’t allow deer to establish long-term patterns.

Hardwoods sprouts are usually very low quality forage for a white-tailed deer.  Unquestionably, you can produce a higher quantity of quality food by establishing food plots with high quality forage crops.  If you could sell the hardwoods for enough to establish the same amount of acreage in native warm season grasses and some quality food plots, I believe you’d like the results much more!  Hinge cutting is a good low budget technique.  However, it might not be the best technique to meet your habitat management objectives.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Will trapping disturb the deer herd?

Hi Grant,

Love your episodes, big fan of yours for years now!

The trapping episode has me interested.  Our property is in NE Ohio and we’ve been managing it for a little over a decade now.  One problem I’m having is the negative effect to the deer herd my Dad is creating through his passion for trapping.  He is not a deer hunter and he loves to trap.  He begins trapping in November and keeps at it through February, mostly muskrats, beavers, otters, coyotes, and coons.

Side Note: After watching your trapping show, I thought I’d point out the low fur prices are not all fur wide.  With the cold winter we are having, the prices of muskrat and beaver are way up.  He is averaging $11-$14 a muskrat at 2 recent fur sales and he is so pumped up about that!  He sends most his fur to Canada for their sales and the Chinese buyers are where most the demand is coming from.

Back to my original thought and question….How much will the deer be affected by all the nonhunting activity on the property during and after season?  I’ve always had a hunch that they relate any and all human activity to danger.  Is this not true?  Do you worry about this on your property?  Do you recommend minimizing disturbance and “traffic” on your property only during hunting season or throughout the whole year?  He has created such a maze of trails throughout our 700 acres because he is 64 and really can only trap by using the ATV vehicle to get to his spots.  Frustrating, but maybe I shouldn’t worry about his doings so much, what do you think?

Thanks for everything,

Andy

Andy,

Wow, your Dad got a great price for his furs!  The best prices quoted in Region 11 (includes Ohio and Missouri) are $8 for coyotes and $30 for bobcats.  Such prices do not encourage most trappers to target these predators.

If I were you, I’d buy your Dad a tank of gas and tell him “thanks for trapping.”  Remember that the presence of predators make deer remain very alert!  If deer can avoid coyotes, they will be dang good at avoiding two-legged predators.  Coyotes and bobcats also can remove a high percentage of the fawn crop.  In fact, in a presentation earlier this week at the annual Deer Study Group, it was reported that coyotes removed more than 60% of fawns from two different study sites in South Carolina.

Another consideration is that deer can and do learn what is and is not a threat.  Deer in many state parks are not alarmed by humans.  Deer certainly become conditioned to vehicles that deliver feed, while avoiding all other vehicles on the same property.  If your Dad checks his trap line at the same time daily, the deer probably know the noise of his ATV, and the smells associated with his trapping gear.  If he has a long pattern of passing through the property without threatening the deer herd, it’s likely the deer are not bothered by him — they are conditioned to his presence.  I’d say your Dad’s trapping is a benefit to the herd, and to you!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What can I plant in sandy food plots?

All of my food plots are basically sand/sandy loam with a little bit of black topsoil in spots.  All are located on hillsides near

my creek.  I have tried Biologic and Whitetail Institute products with marginal success. I do follow soil sample recommendations annually. However, most companies are too eager just to sell their products.  I need some advice on what products WILL produce good forage tonnage in the type of soils that I have AND keep the deer coming back for more. I live in southern Mississippi near Mobile, Alabama. 

My sincerest thanks,

Gene

Gene,

I certainly won’t promise that any cultivar will “produce good tonnage at your site and keep deer coming back for more.”  I don’t even make that promise to myself on The Proving Grounds because there are way too many uncontrollable variables!  Deciding what crop to plant should be based on gads of determinants, including soil type, typical soil moisture availability, the deer density/acreage available to plant ratio, amount of sun/shade the plot is exposed to, season of planting, etc.

If your ratio of plot size to deer density allows the use of crops deer strongly prefer, Eagle Seed forage soybeans are often a good choice.  They are hardy, can produce literally tons of forage, and deer readily consume them (unless they’ve never seen a soybean plant before — deer always have a learning curve to new forage).  However, there are places where forage soybeans won’t perform well.  These can include plots that are very small in size, areas that are totally shaded, areas with high amounts of salt in the soil, etc.

So, to help yourself analyze what works best at your site, I’d suggest:

  1. Always use a utilization cage (see the March 1st episode of GrowingDeer.tv)
  2. Try different crops, and keep records!
  3. Take a soil test from each plot annually, and make sure you tell the soil lab what crops you plan to plant!  Labs can’t provide specific fertilizer recommendations unless they know what crops are to be grown.  The more specific information you provide the lab, the more precise their recommendations will be.  Let me know what crops you decide to plant and how your crops do this year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How does rye compare to winter wheat?

Hello Grant,

I just watched your show on wheat. Can I assume that winter rye is the same as winter wheat in fullfulling what the deer like at certain times of the year? Does it have the same things that you mentioned wheat has for drawing deer?

Thanks,

David

David,

I assume you mean rye, and not rye grass.  Both rye and rye grass grow in a wide range of conditions.  Deer will consume both, especially if they are heavily fertilized!  However, both will readily choke out other crops mixed with them, especially clovers during the spring.  Rye grass readily produces seeds that last a long time and will germinate the following year (or years) which can cause unwanted competition for future crops planted in the same plot.  Deer seem to prefer wheat as much or more than rye or rye  grass.  As there are fewer negative characteristics with wheat, I prefer to plant winter wheat as my small grain crop.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do you use steel foot hold traps?

Grant,

I really enjoyed the trapping video.  I think this topic is one that many managers do not give enough thought to.  My question is simple, do you use steel foot hold traps or are you live trapping even the larger predators?  Also, a very popular trap, the “Lil Griz”, seems to be very popular as a dog proof trap.  Have you used any of these with any luck?

Thanks,

Justin

Justin,

I agree with you that trapping is a tool most managers overlook.  I do use foot hold traps (MB650’s) for coyotes and bobcats.  I’ll try to film an episode about using those traps this fall.  I also use the Lil Griz traps.  I really like them!!  They are very easy and effective to use.  They are also very portable.  Lil Griz will rarely catch any critters beside raccoons and opossums.  Hence, they are best used in combination with other traps if coyotes, bobcats, and other predators are targeted.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How do I prevent the bucks from leaving our farm early in the morning?

Grant,

My family owns a farm in southwestern Illinois, and from what we have noticed, our farm is more of a cut through for the deer.  In the mornings, as we are driving to our stands, we are seeing huge bucks running in front of our cars from our property to the neighbors.  The neighbors have a great deal more land and much more cover than us, but we have major food plots and one major bedding area.  We have put out salt and mineral blocks, but this only seems to boost deer activity at the blocks in the middle of the night (as evidence from our trail cams).  Any suggestions to prevent the bucks from leaving our farm early in the morning and giving us a better opportunity to be more successful?

Bobby

Bobby,

It may be beneficial to study some maps/satellite images and determine if any habitat components are missing from your property and are available on the neighboring properties.  Deer seek the best sources of food, water, and cover within their home range.  Best may mean sources of these habitat components where they don’t feel threatened.   Deer readily become conditioned to avoid threats.  If they perceive activity on your property as a threat, consider using alternate techniques to approach your stands, etc.

I’m a huge believer in not doing the same thing and expecting different results.  Your question indicates you are analyzing the available data and preparing to change your strategy for next year.  That’s a great plan.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Creating Cover

Hi Grant,

I just found your site and I love what I see!  I am 21 years old and from central Wisconsin and am passionate (some think addicted!) to deer hunting and management.  My family has three properties, two that are 40 acres and one that is 39 acres.  I am currently working on the 39 acre property.  Being that I am in college, I don’t have a lot of money.  Therefore, I don’t have a tractor or any heavy equipment.  My family does have a Polaris 500 H.O. which is how I haul my roto-tiller in and out of the woods to create my food plots.  I have planted very successful small (1/4 acre) food plots for 3 years now and am confident in that aspect.

I would like to create more bedding and cover on the 39 acre property to let the surrounding pressure from others work to my advantage.  I plan to plant a couple hundred balsams this spring to create bedding and cover as well as hinge cut trees around oaks that are future acorn producers.  I also will plant about ½ acre in food plots which will have corn, clover, chicory and turnips in them.  There is a creek running through the south of the property and a pond on the north property line.  The adjoining properties do not have much thermal cover and are not managed for whitetails.  The crop fields rotate corn and soy beans.  In the last few years, the deer population has dropped some.  But I have pictures of, and have seen some, nice bucks (three of which were three year olds or better).  I try to shoot 3.5 year old bucks. Knowing what I have to work with, I was wondering what your thoughts were on this small property I have?  I primarily bow hunt but also gun hunt some.

My overall goal is to hold more deer, and obviously more bucks, during daylight hours.  I have a chainsaw, atv, tiller, and shovel.  Not to mention I have a can do attitude!  I would love to get some feedback from you on what you think I should change or modify (I realize a usual west wind is not ideal but this is the property I have to work with).

The east (road) side has swampier bedding with consistent rub lines each year.  The south (creek) side has low land with large white pines as well as grasses and moderately dense undergrowth.  The west and central portion has younger red oak and maples.  The north has high ground with older maples which I plan to thin to allow sunlight in.

Thanks,

Brad

Brad,

You have a neat project!  It sounds as if the neighbors’ ag fields (corn and beans) will do a good job of providing quality nutrition.  This creates a great opportunity for your property to provide cover habitat.  Cover is where most of the action happens during daylight, so you have a great location!  Remember that deer are very sensitive to disturbance in areas where they rest.  Limiting disturbance in these areas will be critical to meeting your objectives.  Combining cover with small plots where deer are comfortable eating during the day or just before they move to the large ag fields can be an excellent strategy.  You are wise to consider the habitat on the neighboring property to insure your travel corridors, etc., fit into other portions of the local herd’s range.  Also consider the predominate wind directions, thermals, etc., when designing travel corridors, plot locations, etc.  It just as important to consider how the hunter can approach these habitat features without being detected as it is to know how deer will likely approach them.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How do I create Hidey Hole food plots?

Grant,

On one of my small metro area properties I have 2 areas within the woods that I plan to food plot this year.  Each area is about a 1/2 acre – 3/4 acre in size.  Right now the canopy is open and I will not have to do much clearing, so I think it will be a great place to do some growing.  Currently it is just grass that gets about knee to thigh high by mid-summer.  For my first year what would be the best way to plant and manage these areas?  Should I spray it and plant it early or should I spray it multiple times and do a late summer planting?  I have a couple ideas but I am curious what you think.  This particular property is only 20 acres and there are some very nice mature deer around.  The problem is that I do not have the food source on this property to drive them in.  During the summer if I put corn down in front of the camera I can almost guarantee that I will get a few pics of mature bucks.  But once the corn is gone I am not seeing them on the property at all.  They are close and I think that the plots may help me a lot next fall.  Given the little information that I have given you here, what are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Tim

Tim,

Your observations indicate that food is a limiting resource in your area.  Except in areas with production ag, quality food is usually in short supply and serves as a great attractant for deer.  Combine quality food with limited human disturbance and you have a Hidey Hole (code name for my preferred place to hunt)!

To create a Hidey Hole in the conditions you described, use any method to remove the duff (dead grass, leaves, etc.).  On larger scale projects in non urban areas, fire is a great tool.  For some of my Hidey Hole plots, I use a rake and backpack leaf blower.  Once the duff is removed and the remaining vegetation is growing, spray with Glyphosate to kill the competition.  If the duff is removed, and the vegetation is putting on new growth, one application of herbicide is usually enough.

Then fertilize appropriately for the crop you wish to plant.  Forage soybeans are extremely palatable and browse resistant.  Soybeans germinate best when covered with soil, so they are a bit more difficult to plant in a Hidey Hole situation than smaller size that can be broadcast.  However, they are a great early season attractant!!  They will be killed by the first frost.  If your goal is simply to attract deer later than the first frost to that location, mix some wheat with the soybeans and plant a month before archery season opens.  Deer love young soybeans, and the wheat that will jump after the beans have been consumed or killed by the first frost.Hidey Hole Gobblers If your goal is to create an attraction plot to hunt during early, mid, and late season, mix in some brassicas as they will usually be more of an attractant later in the season.  Clover is slow to produce much volume, so don’t count it as an attractant during the first season. However, it is a great attractant the following spring — if you like to turkey hunt!  Turkey’s readily convert Hidey Holes in to strut zones.

Hidey Holes are a great tool that can be established with some labor, but not much cost in seed and equipment.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the “magic bean” for producing trophy bucks?

Grant,

What is the best food plot to plant to grow trophy whitetails?  I hunt in Tennessee where there is heavy buck sign.  I just need to know how to make them as big as they can be.

Sincerely,

Ty

Ty,

I don’t believe there is a magic “big buck bean” so to speak.  I think there are some observations that may provide insight for your quest.  Big bucks are found in the highest numbers where soybeans and corn are produced commercially — production ag.  This is a combination of providing crops that are very digestible and high in protein and/or energy.  In addition, commercial ag fields usually provide all the appropriately fertilized food the local herd can consume.  Providing quality food on a year round basis is the real magic bean to allowing deer to express their full potential.  Allowing deer to mature and express their full potential is the recipe for producing trophy bucks

.  I call this the Iowa recipe.  However, you can use the Iowa recipe almost anywhere — providing quality forage and grain throughout the year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What width row spacing should I use with a no-till drill?

Grant,

I just got to watch your video from the 22nd of February, great show.  I’ve got a new 706NT Great Plains drill for my development work and food plots.  You mentioned using a no-till drill in planting your corn.  What width row spacing are you using?  It looked like there were beans mixed with the corn in one picture.  BTW, I met you this weekend at NWTF.  Al Stone introduced us.  Spook is my partner in a land marketing website.

Thanks,

Jimmy

Jimmy,

I really like Great Plains no-till drills!  I block every other down spout in my drill’s seed box when planting corn.  This results in 15″ rows.  I don’t harvest the corn, so the 15″ rows work great!  I have planted corn and soybeans together in the past, but have since determined a better yield for both can be achieved by planting and maintaining each crop separately.  Tell Spook and Al I said hello!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Establishing food plots in shallow soil

Grant,

I love your weekly emails and videos, keep up the good work. I have 10-12 inches of sandy loam soil (Farmington Loam) and then hard limestone bedrock. Can I plant corn or soybeans in this shallow soil? Also, which crops/plants can I plant in this soil? What happens to the unused fertilizer? Does it settle on top or absorb into the limestone bedrock?

Thanks,

Frank (Ontario)

Frank,

Is there much commercial ag in your neighborhood?  If not, you will have to do like me and experiment to find a system of crop varieties and establishment techniques that work for your specific site.  There aren’t any commercial corn or beans planted within the counties surrounding The Proving Grounds.  However, with a little trial and error in techniques and crop varieties I’m very pleased with the forage and grain produced here.  Even more important is the significant improvement in the quality of our deer herd and other wildlife species!!!  This is in response to the overall management program, but certainly growing quality forage and grain is a huge part of that program.

Based on my experience at The Proving Grounds, and at other locations while helping clients develop a forage/grain program, I have confidence that you can have success at your location.  Your crops may not be as productive compared to sites with deeper soils, but they can still provide great forage and grain for your herd.

The three macro elements, nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), or Potassium (K) all behave differently in soil.  For example, N is extremely volatile in most forms.  It can literally convert to a gas and disappear into the air, or leach with water through the soil profile.  P is very stable in most soil types.  It moves deeper in the soil’s profile at a very slow rate.  In fact, in some soil types, surface applied P is not available to the roots of plants only a few inches below the soil surface.  K is somewhere between N and P in stability.

Corn, soybeans, and other crops can have a root system that penetrates six feet deep or more!  However, I doubt they do at my place.  It sounds as if the existing vegetation at your place is also forced to have a shallow root system.  Good food plot varieties are very adaptable to different conditions.  For example, I select corn varieties based on their drought and stress tolerance more so than their potential yield.  I discussed this to some extent in the February 22nd episode on GrowingDeer.tv.  I’m convinced that given appropriate amounts of soil moisture and soil nutrients, great forage and grain crops can be grown anywhere, including the gravel pile I lovingly call The Proving Grounds.  Let me know how you progress on your “Proving Grounds.”

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How much fertilizer do forage soybeans require?

Grant,

I love your site and the info you give out. I have one question for you right now — When you plant the Eagle Soybeans how do you fertilize them, since there is so much growth over regular ag soybeans?

Sincerely,

Barry

Barry,

Thanks for the kind words!  First, I always want to base my fertilizer recommendations on the results of a current soil analysis.   This tells me how much Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are available to the plants (and other micronutrients based on the type of soil analysis).  For soybeans planted for deer, apply enough fertilizer to bring the amount of available P and K to 75 and 125 pounds per acre, respectively.   It’s not necessary to add N to soybeans as they produce an excess — a great feature of soybeans and other legumes!

These levels are a bit higher than many universities recommend for production beans.  But remember that those recommendations are based on the farmer making the highest return on his investment, not necessarily the highest quality forage and beans.  I want deer to express their maximum potential in fawn production and antler growth – two indicators of overall health.  In addition, food plot acreage is limited, so I need each acre to be as a productive as it can be.  Given my mission, I want each plant to be as productive and healthy as possible.  Therefore I base my fertilizer recommendations on maximizing quality, not economic return.

This process begins with insuring the best nutrients are available because plants are simply nutrient transfer agents.  That is to say they transfer available nutrients from the soil and air to the consumers (deer).  With this known, I use an organic fertilizer (Antler Dirt) that includes many more nutrients than simply N, P, and K.  I also use a natural mineral supplement (Trophy Rock) to further ensure each deer has access to all the trace minerals they require.

It’s critical to reiterate that plants are only nutrient transfer agents — they can only transfer the nutrients that are in the soil and air to the deer.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Injured deer

Grant,

I feed corn to deer at my house.  A buck came up that had a bad wound to the left front leg.  Can I add something to the corn that will help him “beef” up and help him heal?  He is a young deer but had a good 6 point rack so I would like him to pull through the cold weather.

Lynn

Lynn,

I’m not aware of any antibiotics, etc., that are licensed to administer to free-ranging deer.  However, most wild critters have a tremendous ability to heal without any medications.  Unless the wound is infected or a bone is broken, he will probably heal without complication.  There is a good chance the left side of his rack will grow in a non-typical form this fall.  Injuries on the front legs tend to result in non-typical rack growth on the same side, and injuries behind the shoulders usually result in non-typical antler growth on the opposite side.  Let me know how this buck progresses!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the real benefit of corn?

Last Saturday I heard you on the “Hunt Life” radio show.  You commented that because of the weather a lot of corn in the Midwest has not been harvested yet, and as a result the local herds will be in excellent condition this spring.  I’ve heard corn doesn’t have any real protein value for a deer.  How is it going to help, other than another food source?

Greg

Greg,

Corn is low in protein (Iowa corn averaged less than 8% protein this year) compared to soybean forage or soybean grain.  However, corn is very high in energy!  Energy is very important during the winter when the deer herd is trying to stay warm.  With extra energy coming in by way of corn consumption, the deer’s body is under less stress.

Both energy and protein are extremely important components of a deer’s diet which allows them to express their potential!  Deer can survive on a diet high in energy and low in protein, or low energy and high in protein, but they won’t express their full potential unless they have ample supplies of both!  I prefer ample quantities of both beans and corn — that’s why the Midwest ag belt produces the majority of deer that express a lot of their potential (record book deer)!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Hunting Attractant Food Plots

This question is more for my friend than me.  My friend can hunt 1400 acres, 700 timber and 700 crop fields.  Should he section the land off and only hunt one side, the timber only, or all around?  What would you do?  Last season he planted a wheat food plot on the top off a ridge and had a little success, a nice deer during Missouri firearms season.  Is that the right food plot to have planted?

Thanks again,

Mitchell (Missouri)

Mitchell,

Because I don’t know this property, I can only provide some general guidelines.  Rather than only hunting one side of the property, I would establish some sanctuaries so deer have areas throughout the property where they are very comfortable spending time during daylight hours.  Outside of those sanctuaries, I prefer hunting ridge tops because the wind direction is usually much more constant compared to locations in a valley.  So creating attraction plots on ridge top locations is a good strategy!  Wheat is a fine attractant – if it’s fertilized appropriately.  Remember, deer are very selective feeders.  They feed on the best forage available in their home range in areas where they don’t feel threatened.  Establishing the best forage won’t help hunters observe more deer if the amount of hunting pressure conditions deer to only use that plot after dark.

With a little planning and work, it sounds like your friend has access to an excellent property!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is frost seeding?

Grant,

I have heard people talk about “Frost” seeding over last year’s food plots.  Can you address what that really means and why it works or does not work?

Seed is so expensive and I do not want to waste it.

Thanks,

Brandon

Brandon,

Frost seeding describes a practice of spreading seed during the late winter or very early spring. The freeze-thaw cycles during late winter will serve to cover small seed with a shallow layer of soil.

Frost seeding is probably the least expensive method to plant small-sized seed like clover.  It is not a good tool for larger seed as the  freeze-thaw cycles typically won’t work them into the soil.

Frost seeding is much more successful if applied to bare ground or plots where the existing forage is very thin.  Freeze-thaw cycles won’t work seed through thick duff or stands of existing forage.

Frost seeding is most effective if done without snow cover.  If seeds are spread on snow, many seeds will be displaced when the snow melts and an uneven distribution will occur.

For the best results, use the same seeding rate when frost seeding as if you were using the broadcasting method during spring or fall planting seasons.  Frost seeding is a good method for most red or white clover varieties.  However, red clovers seem to perform a bit better than whites when using this establishment method.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Is a stand of tag alders good bedding cover?

My family has 530 acres in central Wisconsin.  We just bought it 3 years ago and have been managing it heavily.  We have about 25 acres of food plots.  Our land is fairly flat and doesn’t have any pine trees.  It’s mainly thick tags, in the summer it is almost impossible to walk through it.  We leave about 250 acres of the land untouched. Is this applicable bedding area all year long or what could we do to produce better bedding?  We’ve been planting 1000 pine trees every spring.

Jake

Jake,

Tag alders can provide good summer cover.  They do not provide as good of thermal cover as traditional winter deer yards, native warm season grasses, or relatively young pines.  Cover is a huge component of quality habitat.  Improving this portion of the habitat may really benefit your deer herd.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Should I bulldoze timber to create a soybean food plot?

Grant,

I hunt in Oklahoma on about 1,000 acres of family land.  One field has about 40 acres of clover.  I’m thinking about taking a dozer and pushing some timber to make another 5 acre soybean food plot across the creek from the clover.  It’s in a wooded area where deer hang out often.  Would this work?

Bill

Bill,

Forage soybeans should grow fine at your place.  Like all crops, soil nutrients, weed control, and soil moisture are key!  The forage soybean varieties I use from Eagle Seeds are Roundup Ready, so weed control is easy.  When removing the trees to create a new plot, instruct the dozer operator to leave as much of the dirt on site (literally remove the dirt from the root wads, etc.) as possible.  This requires a bit more work, but will pay major dividends in the future.  In addition, have the plot ripped after the trees are removed from the site.  Ripping 20″ deep or so is critical because the weight of the equipment used in addition to the trees being felled and skidded will cause severe soil compaction.  If that compaction is not fractured by deep ripping, most crops will not produce well for years because their roots will have minimal penetration.  Deep ripping is a critical step to establishing good plots on sites that were recently logged.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Where do bucks get antler genetics from?

Grant,

Where do bucks get antler genetics from, mother or father?

Thanks,

Mitchell

Mitchell,

Researchers are starting to understand more and more about heritable traits of whitetails.  But the level of research or knowledge about heritability related to antler size and shape is still mostly unknown.  It has been reported that approximately 70% of antler characteristics are passed from the doe.  If this is correct, it would go a long ways toward explaining why the culling of bucks has shown only a marginal increase in average antler size of free-ranging bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Supplemental feed in the Ozarks

Grant,

I live in the Midwest down by Branson, Missouri. I am not a landowner so therefore I cannot put out a food plot. I hunt by permission only on several large hardwood acreages. I want to nurture some whitetail herds on a property that I hunt. Is there a trace mineral supplement for antler growth and herd health that I can buy for my herd? I passively feed corn in the off season but they compete with turkey and squirrels and other birds for the corn. What do you recommend? Or, is there a protein supplement you might recommend?

Kurt (Missouri)

Kurt,

I grew up in the area and hunted on land owned by others, so I relate to your situation. I currently live near Branson and know the low quality nutritional forage available on tracts that are primarily hardwood forest.

I use Trophy Rock to provide deer on my property trace minerals. This is an important part of my overall herd management plan. It’s important to state that a good mineral program by itself can’t compensate for a lack of quality forage. If this was the case, we could solve world hunger by providing vitamin/mineral tablets.

There are other steps you can take that, along with minerals, will help improve the herd quality where you hunt. Short of writing an entire management plan, the following are brief guidelines that should be considered…

First, work toward balancing the herd’s density with the habitat’s capacity to produce quality forage. The simplest method to achieve this is to reduce the herd’s density by harvesting does. Some hunters, especially in areas dominated by hardwoods, don’t like this method because the resulting deer herd density can be so low that they rarely observe deer. The quality/quantity tradeoff is one to consider thoroughly before implementing. This tradeoff is much easier in areas with grain production as the deer density can be much higher while still providing access to ample quality food.

Next, insure bucks are being allowed to reach maturity. Remember that age is strongly correlated to antler size. No matter how much quality food a yearly buck eats, he’s still a yearling buck. He may be a great yearling, but he won’t produce his best antlers until he’s much more mature. Passing young bucks or “trigger finger management” is critical to meeting your objective of hunting bucks with larger antlers.

Just beginning a supplemental feeding program will not compensate for too many deer (remember that each deer consumes a ton or more annually) or lack of buck age structure in the local herd. To produce and harvest mature bucks on a sustained basis requires ample quality forage available to bucks that reach a mature age. This can be accomplished anywhere, but it certainly requires more resources in some areas compared to others.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How many acres do I need to have a deer management program?

Dr. Woods,

I definitely enjoy GrowingDeer.tv and have learned some interesting things from it. My question is pretty basic.

If a person is interested in acquiring land to develop a private managed area approximately how many acres should be looked for to make it worthwhile and to have a positive influence on the local herd?

Keep up the great work as many benefit from your efforts.

Cordially,

Dennis

Dennis,

I don’t think there is a one size fits all answer to your question. I know of several examples where small tracts of land provide fabulous hunting/management opportunities because they adjoin properties with great characteristics. An example includes a buddy of mine that owns 140 acres in the middle of a 4,000 acre state park that doesn’t allow any buck hunting, conducts a highly controlled hunt to remove does, and there is production ag (soybeans and corn) in the neighborhood. So, his “neighbor” harvests a bunch of does, protects bucks, and the area is constantly patrolled by law enforcement officers — all for the price of only 140 acres. That 140 has produced multiple 180+ bucks. It is an extremely rare 140 acres. Before you ask, the last time I checked it wasn’t for sale…

The size of deer home ranges vary greatly based on the quality of habitat. Generally, deer living in good quality habitat have a smaller home range size than deer living in poor habitat. So, 1,000 acres in great habitat may allow a significant portion of bucks to reach maturity without being harvested by neighbors that don’t have the same deer management objectives. On the other hand, a tract of the same size in low quality habitat probably won’t yield the same return from your management efforts. When buying land, consider the neighborhood as carefully as the tract for sale.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Is there any benefit to supplemental feeding?

I often get asked about feeding hay to deer during the winter. I remember many years ago someone told me that it is harmful to deer to feed them hay during this time, due to their stomach’s being accustomed to mainly browse during the winter. Is this true and is there any benefit to feeding deer good quality 2nd/3rd crop alfalfa/grass mixture hay?

Jere

Jere,

See the response to Is feeding corn harmful to deer in winter? that was just posted in reference to feeding during the winter. This is an important subject, especially this winter as many deer herds are experiencing very severe winter conditions.

Deer don’t prefer most pasture grasses (fescue, orchard, brome, etc.), especially if they are mature enough to process for hay. Deer readily consume the leaves of alfalfa, which are usually a good source of protein and fiber. However, during the late winter, deer also need (and prefer) carbohydrates as an easy source of energy! I prefer to grow crops for deer rather than implement a supplemental feeding program. However, when I’m asked to prescribe a supplemental feeding program the ration always includes grains!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Is feeding corn harmful to deer in winter?

Grant,

I have recently read an article about how feeding deer corn in these late winter months is harmful to the deer. I’m guilty of feeding them behind my house here in the city. But with 20 inches of snow that has been on the ground going on three weeks, I didn’t think it would be too harmful to them. Why is feeding them corn so harmful? If there is an alternative feed what would it be?

Thanks,

Michael

Michael,

This has been an ongoing debate for years. I think this debate, like most debates, is due to a lack of information. Deer eat literally millions of pounds of corn annually!! Deer in the corn belt eat corn before it is harvested and search the harvested fields day after day for spilled grain until it’s plowed under or spring green up occurs and alternate food sources become available. In some states where feeding/baiting is legal, deer consume tons and tons of corn and have for decades. Corn is a fine source of carbohydrates for deer (any many other critters)!

With that said, I think it’s best to explain why some folks rightfully say it might be harmful to feed deer corn in some circumstances. Deer ingest food items, but microorganisms in their gut actually breakdown the food items and/or convert it into forms that can be absorbed from the digestive tract into the body. There are many different species of these microorganisms in a deer’s gut. Some breakdown certain types of nutrients better than others. The microorganisms get their food from the ingested items they help deer process. So, if deer haven’t had much to eat (like can occur during late winter) the microorganisms haven’t had much to eat either. In fact, many of the microorganism populations can decrease significantly.

This is the source of the potential problem, adding corn or any type of food deer haven’t been consuming. The populations of microorganisms in the deer’s gut necessary for digesting any food item can be too low. So low that the ingested food can’t be digested and absorbed by the deer. When this occurs, the deer can die from starvation with a full stomach.

So, if you started with small amounts of corn and worked up, there would most likely be no problem. However, problems or death do occur when deer ingest a lot of a food item that they haven’t been consuming. The problems are usually magnified if the deer is under additional stress such as being malnourished, etc. Feeding programs can do more damage than good if sudden large changes are made to a deer’s diet.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Will forage soybeans work in a small food plot?

Grant,

I heard you on The Outdoor Show this morning and I must say that it was the most informative I’ve heard… I live in Florida and have 20 acres with a 1 acre food plot. We planted iron clays last year and they did very good, but the deer ate them really fast. The forage soybeans sound great. Will they do well on a plot this size in Florida or would you recommend something else?

Thanks,

James

James,

If Iron Clay peas grew in your plot, forage soybeans should grow well also. However, if the peas were well fertilized and the local herd still destroyed the crop, it sounds as if you need to either expand the size of your plot, reduce the number of deer consuming forage from the plot, or a combination of both. The forage soybeans I referenced this morning (www.EagleSeed.com) during the radio interview have the best ability to regrow after being browsed of any pea or bean varieties I’ve monitored. I’ve even mowed a stand of this cultivar to prepare for planting winter wheat and a week later the bean stalks had grown leaves again!

However, these plants had an established root system. If your peas were consumed as soon as they germinated, then the forage soybeans probably won’t make it to maturity unless more acres are planted. One additional step you can use in areas with a high deer density relative to available quality forage is to plant more seeds per acre. For example, I commonly plant 100+ pounds of beans per acre in areas with such characteristics. This provides more young plants per acre. Many of these young plants will be removed by browsing, leaving an appropriate number to mature. This technique requires site-specific trial and error to learn how many pounds per acre to plant to achieve your objective.

Forage soybeans are a great food plot crop! However, they are not a magic bean and can be over browsed in some situations.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Handling a trapped animal

Grant,

I just watched the trapping video and have a couple of questions:

  1. How do you handle catching a skunk in your trap?
  2. What is the contact information for the place that tans your hides?
  3. How do you kill the trapped animals?

I had a problem with squirrels messing up my garden a few years ago. I trapped several and hauled them off a few miles, but got lazy and shot one in my trap with a .22 revolver. It did the trick, but was rather messy (and seemed a little cruel) as it ran around for a minute in the cage.

I was at a banquet at FBC Branson a few years ago where you were the speaker. I appreciated your comments about evolution and other issues. No longer live in the area, but spend as much time as possible chasing deer, ducks and turkey’s in south Arkansas (not as much time as I used to, but with an 8 year old little girl I have other priorities).

I enjoyed the site, Dave and MK Janke told me about it.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon,

Usually skunks are fairly calm critters. Usually if a person moves slow and quietly, they can approach skunks in a trap without getting a long-lasting cover scent. In fact, it is common for pest control agents to catch skunks in urban areas in live traps. They typically place a cover over the trap and then transport the skunk to a rural setting and then dispatch — all without getting sprayed — Usually.

I’ve found the best way to dispatch a skunk is to shoot it with a solid .22 (no hollow points!) in the lungs. The skunk passes quickly and shows no sign of pain. When I use the same shot placement with a .22 hollow point the skunk sprays! There is apparently a direct switch from the brain to a skunk’s scent glands that is programmed to empty all content if the brain becomes disengaged. I don’t recommend aiming at the head. Only use this method if you wish to apply very long lasting cover scent to the clothes you are wearing!!

I have been using a local taxidermist to skin, flesh, and dry the pelts. I then ship the pelts to Moyle Mink and Tannery and have been very pleased with the quality of their work.

I simply use a .22 rifle or pistol (pending on how far I am from the trap) to dispatch critters. I prefer a head shot for all critters except skunks. I want the critter to pass instantly and have minimal damage to the pelt. I prefer a .22 at times as I can stay back 30-50 yards. This strategy results in the critter being calmer and I can pick the shot location easier.

If your back in the Branson area, GrowingDeer.tv is hosting a Meet the Pros banquet Friday, February 26th at FBC Branson. Five of the top anglers on the FLW tour will be sharing strategies for fishing Tablerock Lake as a FLW tourney begins here the following week. The format will be very similar to the event you attended. I hope to see you there!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the best bait for traps?

Grant,

I enjoy looking at your site and the info that I learn. I was very interested in the episode The Benefits of Trapping. Predators are a HUGE problem that I’m having on our family farm. What do you use to bait the traps with (the box traps and foot traps)? What do you do to trap the coyotes and bobcats? Any info you could give is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

I use inexpensive dog food when my target is raccoons, opossums, and skunks. It seems the inexpensive dog food has a stronger odor compared to the more costly brands. I want the “bait” to have enough odor to attract predators. However, of greater importance is placing the trap where the predator will be traveling! This includes scouting for sign, learning predator travel corridors, etc. Trapping literally makes me a better deer hunter. Unfortunately, Missouri’s coyote and bobcat season closed January 31st, so I can’t demonstrate my larger predator trapping techniques. I will show my coyote and bobcat trapping techniques next fall on GrowingDeer.tv.

When my target is coyotes, I prefer rancid meat. I usually place trimmings from a deer I processed in a bucket and hang it in an old barn. Once vultures begin circling the barn, I know it is ready! Bobcats on the other hand prefer very fresh meat. Trapping season just ended and I’m already excited about trapping next year (so are the deer and turkey at my place!).

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Clover Varieties

Clovers are evolving and stands and yields are increasing, but it is very hard to get any of the latest and greatest clovers. Ag stores will only sell what they have and lots of times that is a low yield, low quality clover. Who sells WILL white clover? It will out produce Advantage, Durana, Alice, Patriot in yield and stand (in some testing), but good luck getting it. There are test clovers at least two or three years old that easily out produce the clovers listed but I can’t get access to them. I can get Durana — but it is priced about twice what it should be. What are a couple of cold tolerant white clovers? I have noticed some last much better or later into the winter and some deer will dig through snow to get to them. I have heard good things regarding Alice later into the winter. Increased stand reduces maintenance and herbicide costs, higher yields do the same and allow a little less area needed. This frees up land use for other things such a water holes, natural browse (forbs) or crops/hay. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Bill

Bill,

Yes, stores have difficulty stocking all the varieties of clovers. Some stores are more oriented toward forage, and will offer a greater variety than others. However, the tougher hurdle to cross is finding the variety or blend that matches your mission. No single variety of clover is going to:

1. Produce well in warm and cold season

2. Be palatable all year

3. Produce well on all sites

Crop varieties are selected for different traits, just like races of dogs. Yes, there will be some overlap of these traits between varieties, but in general, different varieties will perform better at different times of year, on different soil types, etc. There simply is no one variety that is best in all the categories you mentioned. To complicate this more, a single variety often performs differently from location to location, not to mention from drought to moist conditions. However, by selecting several varieties that grow well together, you can create a blend that meets most of your needs. I always prefer blends to a single variety when my mission is to provide quality deer forage throughout the year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Why do deer eat dead leaves?

Grant:

Thanks for your kinds words about our troops now serving on foreign soils (Grant’s February 8th, 2010 blog entry). I can’t tell you how much it means to me to be able to link onto your site and the QDMA. Along with church service, your site helps me keep my head on straight. Yes, I may not be in the states but once a deer geek always a deer geek!

Here’s a question no biologist has ever fully answered for me. Why in the world do deer eat dead leaves? With no nutritional value can we assume it’s just something to fill the rumen?

Love ya buddy,

CJ

Blessings from Afghanistan

Gen 1:28

CJ,

I remember a study on fallen leaves from wild grapes that showed they retained traces of certain minerals. Deer have the ability to identify food sources that have traces of vitamins and minerals that they need (I assume by smell). I suspect they consume various fallen leaves to obtain needed vitamins and minerals if they are not readily available from a better source. Remember — this is simply an assumption. In areas of poor habitat, fallen leaves may be one of the only food items. Be safe in Afghanistan! I’m sure the deer at home are glad you’re away!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Is there an itch associated with antler shedding?

Several of my peers as well as myself have noticed Young Bucks (in person as well as trail cameras) rubbing their ears and forehead like crazy this time of the year. I speculate the area around the buttons and small antlers may “itch” like when a scab is forming. Does this have any scientific backing? Can these areas itch before the antlers or buttons shed?

Michael

Michael,

Great observation! I agree with your theory. However, I don’t know of any scientists that have researched irritation or “itch” associated with the antler shedding process. One of the great features of my job as a deer biologist is that I’ll never run out of fun research projects!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Limiting Factors and Learning Curves

Dr. Grant,

Great information!

I live in a very heavy agricultural area. Should I focus my farm habitat efforts on creating interior areas that are thick or should I focus on providing standing crops (corn & soybeans) on the interior of my property? Also, why does it seem that some deer have to develop a “taste” for foods like brassicas?

Jason (Ohio)

Jason,

You’re on the right track! It’s a great technique to identify “the low hole in the bucket.” By that, I mean to identify if food, cover, or water are in limited supply in the area. In areas that are predominately agricultural, cover and food are usually in short supply during the winter as most crops are harvested. If you can’t dedicate some land for permanent cover, standing corn will work for cover during the late season. Standing soybeans are a great food source for deer during the late season. By providing the “limiting factor” you help the herd and create some outstanding hunting opportunities!

As for deer needing to develop a taste for brassicas, most deer don’t recognize plants they haven’t seen before as food. For example, there are no soybeans grown near my place. The first two years I grew soybeans I don’t think deer consumed a single leaf. About year three I started noticing some leaves missing. Now, deer readily consume soybean forage and pods at my place. The same learning curve applies to any new forage planted in an area. Now if I could just get my daughters to eat spinach!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do raccoons hurt deer?

Grant,

In this video (The Benefits of Trapping) are you saying raccoons are bad for deer?

Mark

Mark,

Raccoons consume many of the same food items as deer such as persimmons, blackberries, corn, etc. They often attempt to consume them at the same time as deer. I’ve reviewed 100’s of trail camera images of raccoons at a food source challenging deer. This by itself isn’t a major problem, but when raccoon population densities get high, it’s a constant form of stress for deer. I like raccoons, but I like deer more, so I opt to favor deer and attempt to reduce raccoon population.

I really like to turkey hunt, and many research projects have reported raccoons as being the most frequent predator of turkey nests. This alone is enough reason for me to trap raccoons and share their pelts with family and friends.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How do I see more mature bucks?

I have got to say your book, Deer Management 101, is the best book about deer management I have read so far. My father and I have 70 acres in Arkansas. In your book (page 70 & 71) you talk about letting deer mature. On our land we have trail pictures of mature bucks, but we mainly see immature bucks. We hunt hard from day break till the sun is down and pass on the immature bucks. We feed the deer on our land but we just can’t seem to take the mature bucks. Do you know any ways of getting the population up and helping us see more mature bucks? Thanks and thank you for signing the book that John Luther got me. If he sent you the picture, that is him and me holding the book in the Catfish Hole.

Wesley

Wesley,

Thanks for the kind comments about Deer Management 101: Manage Your Way to Better Hunting (available online here)! Sounds like your land is producing some great bucks! It’s often easier to produce mature bucks than it is to harvest them. By the time a buck reaches 4+ years of age, he’s obviously gained much skill at avoiding predators (2 and 4 legged). On the other end of the spectrum, yearling bucks seem to look for trouble. They move frequently in open areas and during daylight hours. This is why I often don’t select stand sites where I’ll see the most deer. If the bulk of the herd is traveling there, mature bucks are probably traveling at a different place or time. This fall, you might try selecting different stand sites doing your best to minimize disturbance. Consider placing more emphasis on figuring out when and where mature bucks are moving, and less time hunting. Trail cameras can be a great tool for patterning mature bucks with minimal disturbance. By changing your tactics, you may not see as many deer, but you’ll probably have a better chance of seeing a mature buck.

Keep me posted as you develop a different hunting strategy. It sounds like it’s time you apply Woods rule #2 about deer hunting and management — don’t do the same thing and expect different results!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What is the correlation between fescue and deer?

Another question. What’s your view on fescue grass? What is the correlation between fescue and deer? Do they eat it, like it, love it? I have heard many different views on this. All I know is there are a ton of fescue farmers around this part of the country. That seems to be the only thing most farmers want to plant, I guess due to its ease of getting stands and for their cattle’s diet. However, it’s difficult to plant anything close to it because of its competitive nature to take over.

Tom

Tom,

Fescue = NEGATIVE for almost all wildlife! Fescue is not palatable or nutritious for most forms of wildlife, including deer. When deer are observed in fescue fields, they are most likely picking clover or other forages in the fescue.

Yes, fescue is very invasive. However, it can be controlled by spraying with Glyphosate at least twice at the appropriate times of year, etc. There are other good reasons to kill fescue and replace with either nutritious crops or cover like native warm season grasses. Fescue is very difficult for quail or turkey poults to move through. If the objective on your property is improving the habitat for wildlife, few activities will yield more benefit than converting fescue to better forage or cover!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How to improve rocky soil

I was watching your videos, and heard you say at The Proving Grounds you no till drill your seed in the ground because your ground is much too rocky. The place we are trying to grow deer is in Oregon County, and as you can imagine, the ground is basically the same there — rocky. Do you still do soil tests and fertilize / lime? If so, do you broadcast on top of the ground or do you manage to get it into the seed bed?

Tom

Tom,

Thanks for watching The Proving Grounds! Yes, I’m a huge believer in having soil in food plots tested annually. Crops produce much better when they have access to all necessary nutrients. The best method to produce quality forage is to determine what nutrients are lacking and then add the nutrients that are low or not available. I wish to grow nutritious crops, and therefore healthy deer at the Proving Grounds. Knowing that the soil was extremely poor, I started using humified compost from Micro Leverage several years ago. It not only provides all the nutrients necessary for producing nutritious crops, but can also hold about four times it weight in moisture. This is critical for my gravely soils that don’t hold water!

Literally, my soil is too rocky to use a disk. Therefore, I have the compost spread on the plots. I use a no-till drill to attempt to get good seed to “soil” contact. I find that some folks think the compost is applied so thick that it acts like a layer of soil. That’s not correct. In fact, at two tons per acre compost is applied at less than 1/8″ thick. This system produces excellent results on poor, rocky soil. In fact, after touring The Proving Grounds some of the plots on public lands in the Ozarks are now managed the same way! Those plots looked like Iowa last year!!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Picking warm season crops to attract deer

What is a good seed blend for holding deer through the spring and summer months?

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! When picking a crop to attract deer to a specific location, remember the bear hunting with your buddy tip! If a bear charges, you don’t have to be faster than the bear, just faster than your buddy!! Similarly, you don’t have to plant the best crop, you simply need to have the most palatable crop in your neighborhood. Some warm season options include forage soybeans. Soybeans are very palatable, once deer learn what they are (don’t laugh, deer at The Proving Grounds had never seen soybeans and it took a couple of years for them to begin consuming them). However, once deer learn to consume soybeans, they can consume large quantities of them. If the plot sizes are small relative to the number of deer using them, a better option might be a mix of clover and chicory. These crops are a bit more browse tolerant and are better suited for smaller plots. However they do require some maintenance to persist several years. Buckwheat is an annual warm season forage that is often over looked as an attractant crop for deer. I often use it when I’m establishing a food plot simply for attracting deer for viewing during the warm season. It usually only lives for 75 +/- days, but is very easy to establish. Deer usually readily consume its forage. There are lots of forage options. Late winter is a perfect time to research which one fits your specific mission.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Creating specific bedding areas

Is it possible to control and manipulate your bucks and does by making specific beds for each as some would have us to believe? if so what are your recommendations? We own 294 acres in West Virginia that we are trying to manage. Thank you, and may the Good Lord continue to Bless you and your family and endeavors.

Jim

Jim,

Thank you for your kind thoughts and prayers

I once heard a gentleman talk about creating precisely located bedding sites a few years ago. I admit I’ve never tried to establish such sites. I don’t have, and I don’t think any of my fellow researchers have, any data from placing GPS and radio telemetry collars on deer that indicate deer prefer to bed in the exact same place for several days in a row. That’s not to say it’s impossible, but based on my observations this would be most unlikely.

One problem with deer bedding in the same specific location would be the high level of vulnerability to predation. Any prey critter would experience this by bedding in the exact same place frequently. Smaller critters do use the same specific location, but they use some type of protection such as a den. Turkeys nest in the same place for 26-28 days but experience 60-80% predation as reported by multiple studies. Turkey populations can remain stable at that level of predation because individual hens can recruit many poults (one surviving nest compensates for several nests that predators destroy). However, deer average a much lower recruitment rate. 60-80% predation on deer would rapidly reduce the herd’s density. I always try to create bedding areas that are several acres in size. I’d rather put the odds in my favor, not a four-legged predator’s favor.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

What caliber should I use with children?

The video of you and your daughter deer hunting has inspired me to get my kids more involved. Daughter (9) and son (11) don’t find much interest in sitting empty handed with dad, nor do they find watching dad at the range very much fun. However, both claim if they can actually hunt they would spend more time in the stand with dad. We do not own a youth caliber rifle, but we will soon. Wondering what grain/type ammo you were using with the .223 , what yardage limitation you put on a youth with a .223 and lastly, if your older daughter also hunts, what caliber does she use? Any other thoughts on youth calibers/ammo for deer hunting? They are signed up for hunter safety classes and next season can’t come soon enough, for either of us.

Thanks,

Phil

Phil,

That’s about as nice a compliment as I could receive. I hope you and your children enjoy many hours together in the field. I leave my weapon at home when I take my children target shooting, plinking, or hunting. There will come a time when we take turns. But for now, it’s all about ensuring their safety and enjoyment. Their smiles, hugs, and desire to “go with Dad again” are worth more to me than any amount of antlers.

Both Raleigh (11) and Rae (8) use a youth (short stock) model .223 for deer hunting. I prefer a single shot design for youth so I can watch the hammer and know 100% of the time the exact status of the weapon. Safety is absolutely my primary mission!! Beyond that, I wish to minimize recoil as much as possible and still have them shoot an effective load that humanely kills. There are gads of loads for the .223 caliber. However, most are designed for varmints. These cartridges use a light weight bullet (55 grains or less) and are designed for maximum expansion on impact. This design usually won’t yield an exit wound (so varmint fur receives minimal damage). Varmints (coyotes, etc.,) are much smaller and have a thinner skin than whitetails. Don’t use varmint loads for whitetails as the bullet probably won’t penetrate very far into the animal, and without an exit wound, the blood trail will be minimal. For harvesting whitetails with a .223, I prefer a load like Winchester’s 64 gr. Super-X® Power-Point®. The bullet in this cartridge is designed to expand, but stay intact and not fragment. This usually results in an exit wound and ample blood trail to aid in recovery. Both Raleigh (November 14th episode) and Rae (November 21st episode) harvested deer at 100+ yards using this gun/ammo combo. Both where shot in the lungs/heart. I certainly don’t recommend trying a shoulder shot with the .223.

I look forward to hearing about future hunts with your children!

Growing Deer (and children) together,

Grant

When and where do bucks shed antlers?

Hi Grant,

I’ve heard that peak antler loss comes between February 15 & March 15. And further, that Whitetail sheds are most often found on sunny South-facing slopes with tall grasses rather than in the hardwood. Have you observed any patterns for antler loss or do you have any shed hunting tips as we approach shed season?

Thanks! Really enjoy your site!

Kyle

Kyle,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Antlers are shed as a response to chemical changes within a buck’s body. These changes are generally stimulated by changes in the amount of time the sun shines daily. However, within this window, several factors such as available nutrition, general health, and dominance ranking can determine when an individual buck sheds his antlers. For example, deer researchers often mention observing two dominate bucks in captivity fighting during this time of year. The loser will shed his antlers soon (sometimes the next day). It seems hard to imagine that antlers will simply fall off one day due to a change in dominance status (along with hormone levels) but these examples seem to indicate that’s the case. Never underestimate the effects of hormones on all critters!

So yes, antlers for most bucks tend to be shed during the late winter months. However, some bucks will shed earlier due to other factors. Generally speaking, the healthier the herd, the longer bucks will hold their antlers! I like seeing some bucks with antler during Missouri’s turkey season! Bucks healthy enough to hold antlers that late into the winter are an excellent indicator of a healthy deer herd. It also indicates that the habitat is likely good for turkeys also!

Bucks tend to shed their antlers where they spend the most time. Hence, I like to search for sheds at or near food sources and bedding areas. South slopes are often the warmest areas for deer to bed. South slopes with bedding cover do tend to be target rich environments when searching for sheds.

When you start finding sheds, please send some pictures to info@growingdeer.tv.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do bucks bed in old buildings?

I was watching the hunt with your father using that old cow barn for cover (Return the Favor: Take a dad hunting). I have found — more than once — bucks living in old buildings just like that. This past December I shot a buck while he was bedded down in an old house. I found his bed when scouting trails in the area. I’d followed a trail up to the house where it ended in a place so tracked-up the leaves and 22″ of snow where down to bare ground. The buck was going in and out of the house through the window. So when scouting for places to set-up for a hunt, if there are old buildings around, take a close look to make sure the deer are not using it for their home!

Walt

Walt,

I’ve heard about hunters locating deer sign in abandoned structures before — but never of a hunter shooting a buck while he was bedded in such a place! I’m going to think twice before napping in an abandoned house next time!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

The staggered fletch pattern

I noticed in your last video that your arrows have staggered fletching!?!? I have seen this only one other time before, but didn’t ask about it. What is its purpose and how does it affect your arrow flight?

Tim

Tim,

You are very observant! The staggered fletch pattern was designed to provide a bit more accuracy at longer distances. I frequently practice shooting at 60 yards and can’t tell any difference between my group size when shooting staggered fletch compared to regular fletch. My practice partners claim the staggered fletch is a bit louder while in flight. I have noticed the staggered fletch drifts more when shot in a crosswind than arrows with normal fletch — about 5″ more at 60 yards with my setup. I will return to using a normal fletch pattern next year.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Shed antlers with skull bone attached

Through the years, including this year, I have found shed antlers that obviously have part of the skull attached to them. Why would deer be so aggressive about removing their antlers and are these deer likely to survive?

Don

Don,

The normal antler shedding process doesn’t include bucks losing part of their skull. Bone loss with antlers usually is a symptom of a brain abscess. Brain abscesses are usually caused by an injury to the skull cap that allows bacteria to enter the brain cavity. These bacteria are very acidic and cause erosion of the skull bones. These weaker skull bones fracture and can remain attached to an antler. The loss of skull bones is never good!! However, it’s rarely known what happens to free-ranging bucks with this condition. There is some research that indicates such bucks probably don’t act normally and are much more susceptible to predation by two or four legged predators. However, it’s obviously a minor source of mortality as many herds maintain a large percentage of bucks into maturity if they are not harvested by hunters as immature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Will spikes always be inferior?

Grant,

I see spikes in my hunting areas from time to time. These deer are at least one and a half years old. They may never be a dominant deer so should I take them out or see if potential comes with age?

Waco

Waco,

It is very difficult to predict a buck’s future antler growth based on his first set of antlers! A buck’s first set of antlers is greatly influenced by several factors including: his birth date, condition of his mother while he was a fetus, the quality and quantity of food while he was growing his first set of antlers, etc. In addition, yearling bucks (1 and 1/2 years old) rarely express much of their total antler growth potential. One thing is for sure, dead deer don’t grow. If your goal is to hunt mature bucks, don’t harvest immature bucks.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How to improve small properties

Hey Grant,

I got your info from my friend, Glenn Chappelear. My wife & I run a Christian Retreat center just outside Bryson City, NC in the Great Smoky Mountains. Ten years ago we purchased what was left of an old cattle farm (38 acres). Our vision is to build a 100 bed lodge on the property to minister the love & grace of Jesus to others. About 20 acres is steep pasture land & the rest in woodland. There is a 39 acre woodland tract adjoining us that we are leasing. I have a shot with my trail camera with eight deer (does & yearlings) in it. This excites me because our county average is 0.12 deer per square mile (85% of our county is public land, either national forest or national park).

That’s the background, now my question: What can I do on a very limited budget, with very little equipment (I have a 350 dozer & a 230 2wd MF tractor), on steep ground, to increase the size & health of the heard in this area?

By the way, I loved the video of your daughters! I have three (ages four, six, and eight) that I am introducing to hunting. My sons (ages two years, and four months) have to wait a little.

Thank you for your time! Blessings!!!

Trusting JESUS,

Bill

Prov.3:5-6

http://www.icthusministries.com

Bill,

Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.tv! Sounds like a great location to introduce your children to creation!! Most deer’s home range will extend beyond the boundaries of smaller tracts, so the goal is to keep them on your tract during daylight hours as much as possible. You can accomplished this by identifying which of a deer’s daily needs, food, cover, and water, is in limited supply in your neighborhood. For example, if you are surrounded by cover, provide a quality food source centrally located within your property. By identifying if food, water, or cover is in limited supply in your neighborhood and providing that resource, your tract will become the hub for deer whose home range includes your property.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

How many cameras should be used in my camera survey?

Hey Grant,

I want to do a camera survey on my property to find out what our buck to doe ratio is and take a buck inventory. Our lease is 2,100 acres, how many cameras will I need and what is the best time of the year to do a survey? I heard you mention the Reconyx brand cameras in your video, I am going to buy some cameras for this survey would you recommend Reconyx over other brands of cameras? If yes, why?

Thanks,

Brett (Albany, GA)

Brett,

A camera survey is a great tool for estimating the number of bucks in a herd, the age structure of the population, and the antler size of individual bucks. I typically use one camera per 100 acres — more on properties with dense cover, less on those with more open habitat (area with lots of agriculture, etc.). Practically speaking, the higher the camera density, the more accurate the survey results. The goal of a survey is to get an image of as many individuals from the herd as possible. This is accomplished by placing cameras aimed toward something deer want that has limited distribution throughout the property to be surveyed. For instance, during the time when the bucks’ antlers are uniquelyReconyx trail camera identifiable the food resources tend to be the lowest during August and January so corn and/or minerals work great during August and corn during January. I prefer the pre-hunting season data (enjoy knowing how many mature bucks are on The Proving Grounds before the season opens each year) so I conduct surveys at my place and for clients during August.

I really like the Reconyx trail cameras. They have a very fast trigger speed, great image quality, and fabulous battery life. I really like how long they last. I have two Reconyx cameras that I’ve used constantly for 5+ years! I think that’s a great value!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Advantages and disadvantages of filming hunts

Hi Grant,

Fantastic Videos! They are a great balance of being entertaining but also very informative.

My question is: What are the pros and cons of being videotaped while you are hunting?

Randy

Randy,

Thanks for the kind words!! There are some advantages of recording hunts, such as having another person to spot game, having help to recover harvested game, and company while hunting. A huge advantage is being able to replay the shot. This was really evident in Rob’s Hunt. Reviewing the shot in the tree gave Rob and I great confidence to take up the trail immediately!

However, there are some disadvantages also. It requires much gear to record the sights and sounds of a hunt. I’m not aware of any method to limit the scent of all that gear (batteries, camera, mics, tripods, etc.). Having another person means more movement and potential noise. Last, but not least, I have to pack twice as many Snickers Bars as I feel bad eating in front of the cameraman!

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Doe harvest criteria

Grant,

Are you selective on your doe harvest? An accomplished hunter was preaching to take out the alpha and beta does from a group because they are typically the most seasoned and will pick off hunters more readily. A show I recently watched encouraged the taking of yearling does and leaving the mature, experienced does that were proven producers and more likely to have twins. What’s your opinion?

Jim (Oklahoma)

Jim,

I agree that older does typically are more likely to detect the presence of a predator (two or four legged). This is one reason mature does usually have a higher success rate at raising fawns compared to younger does. However, my primary objective for harvesting does is to balance the herd’s density with the habitat’s capacity to produce quality forage throughout the year. Hence, my doe harvest criteria is based on meeting a quota to improve or maintain the local herd and habitat’s quality. This is much more important to the herd’s overall health than attempting to select a specific age class of does to harvest and not reaching the harvest quota.

Growing Deer together,

Grant

Do deer migrate during tough seasons?

Grant,

During times of extreme winter conditions will deer with limited food resources move from their core areas in search of food or hunker down and tough it out where they are?

Robin (Missouri)

Robin,

I was taught that Queen Isabella funded Columbus’ voyage to determine if the world was round. She did this because she believed the world was flat and Hades started at the horizon. Columbus was willing to gamble his life that the world is round and no harm would happen when he reached the horizon. Most deer tend to be like Queen Isabella. They are very hesitant to leave their home range for any reason. The exception is primarily yearling bucks. Most of us probably remember being in the equivalent life stage as a yearling buck – no fear, without mom for first time, and wanting to roam. However, the other sex/age classes of a deer herd seem to fear the unknown. Fellow biologist Dr. Harry Jacobson and his grad students did a study years ago on this subject.

Briefly, these researchers placed long-life radio collars on deer in a portion of National Forest in Mississippi where browse for deer was very scarce. They monitored the collared deer for a year to establish their maximum home range boundaries. During year 2, they established some food plots just outside these boundaries. No collared deer made one visit to those lush plots even they were living where little food was available. The third year new plots were created on the edge of the collared deer’s known home range and they rapidly found and utilized the plots!

Today the high was 14° at The Proving Grounds (where I live). I observed several deer in my soybean and wheat plots this morning while checking traps. Later, I saw some deer about three miles away trying to find a morsel of food in an overgrazed cow pasture. If those deer believed like Columbus, they’d have probably found the standing beans at The Proving Grounds. However, they were more like Queen Isabella — standing on the shore thinking death awaited them at the horizon. Many studies have confirmed that most deer make the Queen Isabella choice, but there are a few that share Columbus’ willingness to adventure.

Growing Deer together,

Grant